Seal the brick pipe passage through the ceiling. Ceiling trim for chimney. Brick pipe laying

18.10.2019

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How to remove a pipe in a bathhouse through the ceiling? Many owners of houses and bathhouses equipped with stoves face this issue. When installing a chimney in a bathhouse, important point is the passage of a pipe through the ceiling. If the building is made of wood, then proper cutting of the chimney becomes a primary task to ensure fire safety. Only careful compliance with all established standards guarantees long and uninterrupted service of your property.

Before making a pipe in a bathhouse through the ceiling, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the following recommendations.

Safety regulations

When installing a chimney in a bathhouse through the ceiling, you must follow the recommendations Sanitary Standards and Rules 41 – 01 – 2003. According to clause 6.6.22, it is necessary to provide a distance of 130 mm in the case of a brick pipe passing through the ceiling for a chimney that provides protection for wood. But given that in most cases metal pipes are used in baths, you need to focus on the following standards:

It is necessary to maintain a distance of more than 380 mm to flammable objects protected by insulation;
The minimum distance to flammable objects without insulation must be more than 500 mm.

IN in this case these distances must be ensured before the pipeline comes into contact with the tree.

Ideally, these distances would not be covered with anything at all, but this option will contribute to increased heat loss, which is economically unprofitable. Therefore, this volume is covered with non-combustible materials.

The maximum length of the pipe passing through the ceiling in the bathhouse should not be more than 1000 mm. The chimney cannot be fixed to the roof in a rigid manner, because when the temperature changes, the pipe may change slightly in size, which can lead to deformation of the ceiling.

The bathhouse often uses pipes of a special design, called “sandwich”. They are two pipes different diameters, one of which is inside the other. The space between them is filled with a layer of insulation. Not many people know that the outer part of such a structure has almost the same temperature as inner part chimney.

Need to know! The main purpose of such a device is to ensure normal traction, and not at all to improve fire-fighting properties.

Often, in order to quickly heat the bathhouse, owners allow the stove to overheat. If the temperatures of the outer part of the pipe exceed valid values at 400 ºС, then this threatens the outer part of the sandwich to fail, which will lead to a fire hazard. Therefore, under no circumstances should the distance between the pipe and surrounding objects be allowed to decrease.

The distance to combustible structures when using brick or concrete pipes must be at least 13 cm. For ceramic pipes not equipped with insulation, the corresponding distance will be more than 25 cm, for pipes with insulation - 13 cm.

It is advisable to set these parameters at the bathhouse design stage, since the step when installing floor beams is usually not large. If it is 60 cm, then it will be possible to use only insulated pipes.

The diameter of the outlet part of the pipe is often 11.5 - 12 cm. If a sandwich uses 10 cm thick insulation, then we get a diameter of the outer part of 31.5 - 32 cm. We add the distance recommended for insulated structures of 13 cm on each side, we get a width of 57, 5 cm. That is, this design fits perfectly into the existing distance between the beams of 60 cm.

Now let's see what distance between the beams should be when using an uninsulated chimney. If the internal diameter is 11.5 mm, then we add to it the distance required by safety rules on all sides of 25 cm, we get 61.5 cm. The result obtained does not fit into the existing distance between the beams. Moreover, the diameter of the pipe can be even larger, and then the discrepancy between the size of the chimney and the pitch of the beams becomes even more noticeable.

Advice! In the instructions for stoves, manufacturers usually indicate the minimum distance required for the chimney to pass through the ceiling various materials. When constructing a chimney, use these values.

Fire protection

So, what insulating material is best to use for thermal protection when constructing a chimney passage through the ceiling with your own hands?

Mineral wool. It retains its properties up to 300 ºC. Rigid mineral wool PZh - 175 can withstand higher temperatures (up to 1000 ºC). The disadvantage is the release of formaldehyde, which can be harmful to health. Also not resistant to water;
Expanded clay. Tolerates wetness well. The disadvantage is the need to construct additional containers to accommodate it;
Basalt cardboard. Environmentally friendly. A sheet 5 mm thick can withstand temperatures up to 900 ºС;
Asbestos. Does an excellent job of fire protection, but at the same time emits harmful substances. Therefore, if it is used for a chimney, it is necessary to isolate the room from it using metal sheets;
Minerite. Able to withstand heating up to 600 ºС, without being destroyed by water and being an absolutely environmentally friendly material.

Some experts still use sand or clay for thermal insulation, but this method is gradually becoming a thing of the past.

You can reduce the likelihood of a fire using several other methods.

Construction of a water jacket on the chimney. This will require remote tank. It will also be necessary to supply cold water. But the resulting hot water can be used in the shower or for heating. But the temperatures above the water jacket will drop significantly, which will reduce the likelihood of the pipe burning out;
You can place a water tank above the stove, which will also protect the chimney from excessive heating. But with this method, you will have to constantly ensure that the water in the tank does not boil and pour cold water in time;
Place stones on the pipe. You will need support to redistribute their mass.

Using all these methods, you can achieve a decrease in temperature in established passage, which will significantly increase fire safety.

To increase fire safety in the bathhouse, you can use materials such as glass magnesium sheets and fire-resistant plasterboard sheets. They are used to cover the ceilings themselves and the openings in them through which the chimney passes. Only Premium class sheets marked “NG” are suitable for fire protection. If such marking is absent, then such products cannot be used for fire protection.

Construction of a crossing over the ceiling

Let's look at how to make a chimney in a bathhouse through the ceiling. This can be done in two ways.

Use ready-made cuts;
Install the pass-through unit with your own hands.

Application of ready cuts

In order to fully protect roof elements from exposure high temperatures arising when combustion products pass through the chimney, and at the same time secure the pipe in required position, the so-called ceiling cutting is used.

To construct a chimney passage through the ceiling, it is necessary to purchase a chimney passage unit in hardware store. It is a box made of mineralite or metal connected to a stainless steel plate. There is a hole in the center of the structure into which the sandwich is placed. Such a device also performs, among other things, a decorative function. A plate attached to it covers the ceiling hole, giving it a more aesthetic appearance. In addition, insulation rests on this plate, which fills the space between the ceiling elements and the pipe.

They come in two types:

With insulation, looking like two plates combined with insulated pipe;

Without insulation, which is a box made of metal that is to be filled insulating materials with your own hands and a hole intended for installing pipes.

Cuttings meet different forms. Sometimes they look like metal cylinder, in this case the plate significantly exceeds it in size. If such a device is used, and the ceiling hole is square in shape, then it is still necessary to comply with all the listed parameters required to ensure the fire safety of the structure. At the same time, it is necessary to strengthen protection wooden structures baths using strips of metal.

Installation of a ready-made adapter

Cut a hole in the ceiling, taking into account the overall dimensions of the cut;
If necessary, carry out insulation;
Install the chimney passage unit into the ceiling;
Bring the pipe to the ceiling, and its length should be 100-150 mm less than the height;
Connect the section of pipe located on top of the roof;
Seal all joints that arise during the passage chimney through a wooden ceiling.

Installation of an adapter made by hand

It is possible to carry out a chimney through the ceiling in a bathhouse without factory components.

Let's look at how to make a ceiling passage unit with your own hands. To do this you will need:

The material chosen for thermal insulation of the pipe passage through the bathhouse ceiling;

Metal plates.

The pipe in the bathhouse through the ceiling and roof is installed following the recommendations described below.

Cut a hole in the ceiling that is 13-18 mm larger than the size of the pipe;
One edge of the pipe is inserted into the hole made;
From inside the room, a plate is placed on the ceiling;
The chimney passage through the ceiling is insulated. It is optimal to make thermal insulation for the ceiling passage unit from mineralite.
The space remaining between the ceiling and the plate must also be filled with a layer of insulation.
The plate is attached using self-tapping screws.

When considering how to install a pipe in a bathhouse through the ceiling, be sure to pay attention to such an important factor as the choice suitable place for the passage of the ceiling for the chimney.

It can be installed either directly on the ridge, providing good traction and no accumulation of sediment; or next to the ridge.

Attention! Never install a chimney where roof slopes meet.

Cutting a chimney installed by yourself will require a little more time than purchased in a store, but will help save money, which is so necessary during construction.

When installing trim in the ceiling and roofing, craftsmen are often faced with such a difficulty as the need to make a chimney in a bathhouse through the ceiling strictly vertically, placing it in the center of the passage. To do this, we can recommend using a plumb line. It is lifted up and lowered into the center of the chimney. This point is marked on the ceiling and used as an appropriate mark before making a pipe passage through the ceiling of the bathhouse.

Rules for passing through the ceiling

Before installing a chimney through a wooden ceiling, you need to familiarize yourself with the rules for installing a ceiling passage assembly for a chimney with your own hands.

At the outlet of the furnace, only a metal pipe with thick walls without thermal insulation is installed. This is due to the fact that in this place the temperatures reach values that mineral materials cannot withstand.
The pipe in the bathhouse is routed through the ceiling and roof, surrounded by insulating material.

Where the pipes in the bathhouse are routed through the ceiling, joints are not allowed when crossing the floors. They are possible either below or above them;
The horizontal section should not exceed 1 m;
The maximum number of elbows when passing a chimney in a bathhouse through the ceiling is three;
The passage of a pipe through the ceiling in a bathhouse is not allowed to be rigidly secured.

Joint insulation

When constructing a pipe cut on the ceiling of a bathhouse, they use sealants that ensure the strength of the joints and can withstand high temperatures.

The clamps used in the design must be made of the same material as the chimney itself.

Careful handling of the pipe passage through the roof is very important. Otherwise, the following consequences are possible:

The penetration of moisture into the chimney can lead to gradual destruction of the structure, which will result in the penetration of smoke between the roof and the ceiling, and therefore increase the risk of fire;

Liquid constantly accumulating inside the chimney can lead to the formation of fungus and rust;

Violation of tightness can lead to increased heat loss;

Water getting inside the roof can lead to rotting of the truss structure.

For additional protection from water ingress, special “aprons” are used. They come in different forms: made of metal and therefore rigidly adjacent to the roof; built in advance into the sheet used to cover the roof; flexible, made of plastic materials - rubber or silicone. The size of these aprons must be selected taking into account the diameter of the chimney pipe.

Therefore, sealing all joints is the final, but at the same time extremely important point in bringing the chimney out.

Chimney outlet: requirements for how to make a chimney in a bathhouse and bring it out through the ceiling

Despite enough simple technology construction of a bathhouse, in the process of performing work it is necessary to solve a number of quite complex issues. One of them is to lead the chimney pipe out through the ceiling. This operation must be given Special attention, since the safety and service life of the structure depend on correct execution.

If miscalculations are made at this stage, it will be impossible to comply with fire safety requirements. So it’s better to do everything to the maximum than to underdo it. Hardly anyone will doubt this. Therefore, every private developer rules must be followed concerning the proper manufacture of a chimney passage through the ceiling in a bathhouse.

About distances to combustible structures

For proper and safe operation, the bath pipe must be routed through a specially created passage in the ceiling. Thanks to this device it will be possible to withstand safe distance from the outer surface of the pipe to the ceiling materials. This the requirement is fixed by SNIP 2.04.05-91. In accordance with it, you need to do the following:

The distance between combustible rafters and sheathing and the outer surface of brick and concrete pipes must be at least 130 mm;

A distance of at least 250 mm must be maintained between the ceiling and the surface of the ceramic pipe without insulation, and 130 mm between the pipe with thermal insulation.

It is with these values in mind that it is necessary to install the floor beams yourself. They should be installed at a distance of about 60 cm. But such a step can only be maintained if insulated pipes are used.

Attention must be paid to cross section of the furnace outlet pipe, which is usually 115-120 mm. Sometimes, when constructing a passage, a heat-insulating sandwich 100 mm thick is used. In this case, it is possible to increase the cross-section to 315-320 mm. A pitch of at least 130 mm must be maintained on both sides. Taking into account compliance with the above requirement, we obtain that adjacent beams will be located from each other at a distance of 575 mm (130 mm * 2 + 315 mm). This just allows you to maintain the recommended step of 60 cm.

It is also necessary to determine the minimum pitch for a pipe without thermal insulation. With an internal cross-section of the chimney of 115 mm, the distance at which the outer edge of the pipe is 250 mm away from combustible materials will be considered safe. The installation of beams must be carried out in increments of 516 mm (250 mm * 2 + 115 mm).

Although the deviations are small, still does not fit into the specified interval. The given calculation scheme is intended for smoke channel medium size. But some baths use pipes with a larger cross-section. Be that as it may, if you have not yet started installing the ceiling, be sure to take into account the distance when placing the beams.

If you refer to Appendix 16, you can find recommendations on the setback (the distance from the outer surface of the pipe to combustible materials):

For partitions equipped with a protective coating:

For pipes with a thickness of 120 mm - 200-260 mm;
for pipes with a thickness of 65 mm - 380 mm.

For partitions that do not have special protection:

For pipes with a thickness of 120 mm - 260-320 mm;
For pipes with a thickness of 65 mm - 320-500 mm.

All these distances clearly show what it should be like recommended distance from walls. They are given due to the fact that in many buildings the chimney is often installed in close proximity to the walls. At the same time, the wall material also needs protection from fire. The reason is simple: flue gases, coming out of the firebox, can have a temperature of 500 ° C. If the wooden walls do not have special protection, after some time they become heated, and subsequently can burst into flames. Taking these risks into account, it is necessary to fix a heat-insulating layer on the surface of the wall, and put a sheet of polished stainless steel on top of it.

Types of ceiling penetrations

When installing an outlet for a chimney pipe with your own hands “pie” materials are exposed ceilings, which also begin to experience the effects of heat. They need to be protected, and in addition, the pipe must be properly secured in the correct position. It is for this purpose that a ceiling cutting is used, which is also called a passage unit.

The easiest way to solve the problem of venting a chimney through the ceiling is to purchase a passage unit industrial production. It looks like a box made of metal or mineralite, with a stainless or galvanized steel plate attached to one side. In the center of this unit there is a hole where the sandwich is inserted. A plate that will be attached to the side of the room will help close the hole in the ceiling, acting here as decorative element. It also serves as a support for the heat insulator, which is used to seal the space between the pipe and the floor beams.

All experts agree on the choice suitable material for making penetrations in the bathhouse. It should only be stainless steel. This is explained by the fact that the prevailing temperatures in the steam room as a result of exposure cause the material to release harmful substances. In the case of using stainless steel, such a health hazard is excluded.

Making a pass-through knot with your own hands is quite simple. If a ceiling structure is already present in the bathhouse, but is made without taking into account the passage of the pipe, then in the place chosen for the unit are doing square hole cross-section 12 cm smaller than the decorative panel. A layer of insulation is laid on the beams and boards. If possible, you can additionally secure strips of mineralite, basalt or asbestos-cement cardboard. A strip of insulation made from stone wool. Sometimes it may be necessary to pad the insulation with strips of metal.

As for the features of installing a pipe on a stove in a bathhouse with your own hands, the device must be put on a straight section that will pass at the intersection with the ceiling. The performer is only required raise the passage unit to the required height. You need to place a strip of insulation under the edges of the device, which will be flush with the ceiling boards, and then perform the final fastening using self-tapping screws. Very often, factory-made pass-through units already have perforations for self-tapping screws, so there is no need to prepare them before installation.

Pass-through units for a chimney in a bathhouse may have different shape. In some cases, a metal cylinder is built around the perimeter of the chimney opening. In this case, the edges of the decorative plate will extend beyond the cylinder to a fairly large distance. If you plan to use a pass-through assembly of a similar shape, then the hole still needs square. Acceptable here and round form, but then you will have to maintain a distance between its edge and the pipe of 130 mm if there is insulation on the pipe, or 250 mm if there is no insulation.

When implementing this option, you should pay attention to the following: the area of the plate must be sufficient so that it can cover the entire hole. When using a knot of this shape, you need to protect the tree not only with insulation, but also with metal strips.

Sometimes a bathhouse may use pass-through units without a cylinder around the pipe, but they may have external edges around the perimeter. Most often they are made of metal, although items made of mineralite are also found. When using a unit with metal sides, it is necessary to trim the edges of the hole in the ceiling with insulation, for example, basalt cardboard. If the sides are made of mineralite, then such an operation will not have to be performed, since the material has good heat-insulating properties.

Rules for passing through the ceiling

When preparing to install a hole for the chimney outlet in the bathhouse, you a number of rules must be followed:

In the place where the pipe comes out of the sauna stove, it is allowed to install only a metal pipe of sufficient wall thickness without insulation. It must have a height of at least 1 m. Due to critical temperatures created at the output, even stainless steel in combination with mineral wool insulation will not be able to cope with such thermal effects. For more high levels chimney construction is permitted to use sandwich pipes.

To bring out the chimney in a bathhouse with your own hands through a hole in the ceiling, use a pipe in a protective sheath. The latter can be a factory sandwich, but if desired, insulation can be done thin wall pipes yourself.
Pay special attention to areas where floors intersect, where there should be no joints before or after. When calculating the height of sections, assume that you have the ability to visually monitor the condition of all connections.
For a horizontal section, the maintained length should be no more than 1 m.
Along the entire length of the chimney structure in the bathhouse, it is allowed to use no more than 3 elbows.
It is prohibited to rigidly attach the pipe to the ceiling. In case of temperature changes, it will begin to deform, which will lead to its displacement.

What thermal insulator should I use?

Having finished installing the passage unit on the ceiling with your own hands, work continues in the attic or the second floor, where it is necessary to seal the space between outer wall pipes and beams with insulation.

Basalt wool

Basalt wool can serve as a heat insulator. Before purchasing, be sure to check that it can withstand temperatures over 600°C.

There is an opinion that this is not the optimal option for such work. This is explained as follows. This insulation is made using resins as a binder, which, when exposed to high temperatures, begin to release formaldehyde. In addition, condensation sometimes begins to flow through the pipe. As a result of the interaction of mineral wool with moisture, the former loses its heat-shielding properties. As the moisture evaporates, the properties are only partially restored. Therefore, consider ideal option basalt wool is not allowed.

In addition to the insulation in passage space in the bath it is necessary to lay expanded clay of medium and fine grain. It is known to builders as natural material, characterized by a fairly light weight. Its main advantage is that even after getting wet it restores its properties. But after contact with moisture, its thermal conductivity characteristics increase slightly, although they are already very low even in comparison with mineral wool.

At one time, instead of expanded clay, sand was used as a sealant. In principle, it suited everyone except for one thing: due to its fine grain, it constantly spills out through the cracks. As a result, the owner has to monitor the amount of sand and replenish it if necessary. However, it is unlikely that anyone will enjoy collecting sand from the stove.

Among natural insulation materials, you can choose clay. Before use, it is mixed with water to a paste-like state, and then the entire gap is sealed with the mixture. Sometimes expanded clay is used as a filler.

According to some owners, using a pass-through heat insulator in a bathhouse is not very correct. It is believed that nothing will happen if the space is left unfilled. This will help prevent overheating and burning this part of the chimney structure, and thanks to the ventilation created in this place, the pipe section will cool faster. This may be true, but you need to take into account that the hot pipe radiates heat, which will cause the nearby tree to dry out. And then fire can occur at a lower temperature of + 50°C.

Conclusion

Exiting the chimney through the ceiling with your own hands is a necessary operation in the process of building a bathhouse. However, you need to be very careful here because of a possible fire hazard. During operation of the furnace, the area located near the ceiling will reach high temperatures and may at some point cause a fire if protective measures are not taken. To do this, a special alteration called a pass-through unit is performed step by step. But at the same time, it is necessary to maintain the recommended distances for placing this device relative to the floor materials.

We carry out the correct installation of the chimney in the bathhouse: we go through the ceiling and roof

Today we’ll talk about purely bath topics. Having built a long-awaited steam room and bought a stove for it, many ask this question. How to install a pipe in a bathhouse through the ceiling to do everything quickly and safely?

I know from practice what illiterate installation of a chimney can lead to. Some migrant workers (I don’t want to say anything bad about them, many work excellently and responsibly, fulfilling the assigned task) violate basic requirements in order to speed up the labor process. In this case, fire is a common occurrence. I can remember two similar incidents in our small town. They occurred precisely because of poor thermal insulation between the pipe and the ceiling.

Something started out of the blue, let's get down to business. First of all, we will pay attention to the fire safety of the bathhouse, as well as all the subtleties of this work...

We run the chimney through the ceiling

The first thing to do is determine the exact location where the stove will be installed. Although, this issue must be resolved at the stage of planning and designing all premises. What should you consider?

Firstly, the chimney pipe passing through the ceiling should not be located near load-bearing beams and rafters. Otherwise, the question may arise: how to remove them (which is extremely problematic) or how to protect them from fire. In order not to worry about this, think about this nuance in advance.

Secondly, the stove should be located in a place convenient for you. The correct location of the firewood box, some stove accessories, open doors etc. should not cause you any inconvenience. Here you should also consider where the hot water tank will be located and whether there will be one at all (maybe you have an electric or gas boiler).

Okay, we’ve decided on the location and installed the stove. Now we prepare or buy the chimney itself and all the “bells and whistles” that will be required. Here I mean sandwich pipes and additional elements, which you can read in detail in another article. A chimney for a bath of this type is the most practical and in demand today. We will consider this option further...

In order to accurately mark the ceiling, we take a regular plumb line (I think there is no need to explain what it is) and raise it to the ceiling. In this case, the weight of the plumb line should be in the middle of the smoke exhaust channel of the stove. We mark on the ceiling the place that he showed us “ smart device" This is the center where the bath pipe will pass.

Next, we take the ceiling passage box, which is included in the “necessary gadgets” category, and mark the hole in the ceiling according to its size. This hole can be made 1-2 centimeters larger. There is nothing wrong with this, since from below everything will be closed by the design feature of the box itself, and from the attic side, the remaining cracks can be closed with the same stone wool.

Next, cut a hole in the ceiling the right size. Here everything depends on what tool you have. The best option, of course – a chainsaw. Fast and effective. Just first check that there are no nails, screws or other metal objects in the cutting area of the wooden ceiling. Any insulation should also be absent, especially flax or jute. Job chain saw on these materials is unacceptable, you can ruin the tire (there is already bad experience). Go ahead…

Highlights of exiting through the roof

Now the next stage: we need to “punch holes” in the roof and roof. The work is unpleasant, but necessary. Again we start with the markings. If we compare it with the ceiling, then here we mark it differently. The roof usually has a slope. And the greater this slope angle, the larger the area of the hole cut for the chimney will be.

With the lateral vertical markings, everything is simple: we retreat 10-15 centimeters from the sandwich pipe and cut out the wooden sheathing. With horizontal upper and especially lower markings it is more difficult. Here you should take into account the slope of the roof and be more careful with the bottom sheathing board. Make sure it is not too close to the chimney.

The roof itself will have to be cut in the form of an oval. Again, the greater the angle of the roof, the more stretched the opening will be. To close the cut hole from the street side, use special rubber seals. In common parlance they are called “flash drives”. They are called roof penetration seals. A very convenient and practical thing.

By the way, about the “flash drive”. Always purchase it with the desired slope, at the angle of your roof slope. Often managers in retail networks offer a direct version of the flash seal. In practice, it can only be properly placed on a horizontal surface. Take this point into account.

Chimney made of iron pipe

Quite often, especially in rural areas, use an iron chimney for a bathhouse. That is, the usual iron pipe diameter 100-110 mm. The option is not entirely the best, but it has the right to exist. Here the ceiling passage unit (CPU) is performed differently. The distance from the metal pipe to the wooden structures should be 40-50 centimeters.

The chimney itself in the area of the ceiling passage and in the attic is wrapped with sheet asbestos. It is pre-moistened with water so that it does not crack when bent. The top of such a wrapped pipe can be wrapped with wire. It will not allow asbestos to “slide” down.

From the side of the steam room, the hole made is covered with a sheet of stainless steel or ordinary thin metal. But under this sheet it is also necessary to place asbestos or paronite. The goal is to reduce heat transfer between this metal and the finishing material, such as lining. Expanded clay is poured on top of the metal sheet or basalt insulation is laid.

In order to close the roof, a flash seal for this pipe is no longer suitable. Rubber simply cannot withstand high temperatures. Proceed as follows: the cut hole is covered with a sheet of metal, and the gaps between the pipe are sealed with rope asbestos, which is generously moistened with thick cement mortar(simply wrapped around the pipe). As they say: cheap and cheerful.

Necessarily use a ceiling passage box, even if you use a sandwich. Fill it with expanded clay, foam glass or mineral wool. Do not fill the space around the pipe with earth, especially sand. Sand tends to get very hot and retain heat for a long time.
The most optimal height chimney - 4.5-5 meters. Try to stick to these parameters.
The upper edge of the pipe should rise above the ridge by at least 50 centimeters. But, if the roof is flat, then the height here should be at least a meter. For large chimney heights, special guy wires are installed.
In a steam room, if the pipe passes near a wall or partition, then it must be installed on the wall protective screen. It can be in the form of stainless steel or basalt cardboard.
When installing a flash drive, it is recommended to use a special thermal and weather-resistant sealant. He copes well with the task assigned to him. By the way, during the assembly of a chimney sandwich, the same thermal sealant, and sometimes crimp clamps, are often used.
If flammable roofing material is used, a spark arrestor is required. You can do it yourself by using a used KAMAZ air filter.
Try to avoid sandwich pipe joints in the ceiling passage. At this point the smoke channel must be solid.

How to install a pipe in a bathhouse through the ceiling

We lead correct installation chimney in the bathhouse. How to safely pass through ceilings and roofs. Some tips from stove makers.

How to properly route a pipe in a bathhouse through the ceiling and roof

The construction of a chimney duct to the stove requires its passage through the ceiling and out to the roof. The bathhouse pipe through the roof must pass in full compliance with fire safety rules. Otherwise, the possibility of fires increases, which will cause harm to human health.

Chimney outlet to the roof

Safety regulations

The passage of a pipe through the ceiling of a bathhouse is regulated by SNiP 41-01-2003. This document states that:

the passage of the bath pipe in the ceiling should be located at a minimum distance of 350 mm from flammable structures and 250 mm from difficult to flammable elements;
It is considered ideal to leave this distance not closed (air). However, such a design will lose a large number of heat;
the specified distance is filled with non-combustible materials;
the hole needs to be closed metal sheets(stainless steel is more often used, which does not spoil appearance premises);
the pipe in the bathhouse through the ceiling and roof should not have joints. This factor must be taken into account when designing a chimney;
the maximum length of the pipeline passing through the ceiling or roof should not exceed 1 m;
The chimney should not be attached rigidly to the ceiling or roof.

Selection of thermal insulation material

The following materials can be a heat insulator:

basalt or mineral wool. The insulation can withstand heating up to 600ºС. The main disadvantages are: the release of formaldehyde, since the material contains resins and the instability of protective qualities when wet, which is possible in the event of condensation formation;

expanded clay The material has excellent properties. When wet, expanded clay quickly restores its functions. However, to arrange the ceiling, you will have to additionally install containers in which the material will be located;

Middle fraction expanded clay

mineralite The material consists of cement, cellulose and mineral fillers. Minerite tiles can withstand temperatures up to 600ºC. When heated, it does not emit harmful substances, and when exposed to water, it does not lose its properties;

asbestos. It is a good insulating material, but when heated strongly it releases substances harmful to humans;
sand or clay. The materials were used as heat insulators earlier, before the advent of modern insulation materials. However, some experts prefer to use natural materials rather than artificial ones.

Pipe joint insulation

To make joints airtight, use:

high-strength sealants that can withstand large temperature changes;
special clamps made of the same material as the chimney.

Crossing the ceiling

How to remove a pipe from a bathhouse through the ceiling? To arrange the transition you can:

purchase ready-made cuts;
build the crossing yourself.

Arrangement of a ceiling transition with ready-made cutting

The finished shelf assembly is designed to facilitate the installation of a ceiling transition. You can purchase such a chimney element at any specialized store.

There are two types of ready-made passages:

The pass-through unit with finished insulation consists of:

Finished ceiling assembly with insulation

The adapter without insulation is metal boxes that need to be filled with insulating materials, and holes for pipes.

Unit for arranging a passage through a ceiling without insulation

How to install a pipe in a bathhouse through the ceiling using ready-made cutting? The whole process consists of the following steps:

make a hole in the ceiling of the required dimensions (depending on fire safety requirements and cutting dimensions);
in the right places, the cutting is insulated with the previously selected material;
the finished unit is installed in the ceiling passage;
a pipe is connected to the ceiling in the bathhouse. The length of the pipe should be 10 - 15 cm less than the height;
The next section of pipe is connected in the attic.
pipe joints are sealed.

Installation process of finished cutting

Arranging a ceiling passage with your own hands

For self-made transition node will need:

metal plates;
insulation;
chimney pipe.

The pipe in the bathhouse through the ceiling is installed according to the following scheme:

a hole is made in the ceiling, the diameter of which is greater than the diameter of the used chimney at 130 – 180 mm;

Additional reinforcement of ceiling beams

the chimney goes into the attic. In this case, the pipe connection must be higher or lower than the ceiling;
With inside a metal plate is installed on the bathhouse ceiling;

Attaching the support metal plate

the entire distance from the plate to the attic floor is insulated.

The pipe in the bathhouse is laid through the wall in a similar way.

Exiting the smoke duct to the roof

Before you remove the pipe in the bathhouse through the roof, you need to take care of two factors necessary for the operation:

select the location of the output;
purchase the necessary items.

Place for withdrawal

The pipe outlet through the roof of the bathhouse can be done:

on the ridge of the roof. This location of the chimney is considered the most optimal, since snow and other precipitation does not accumulate in this place and good draft is ensured. However, in practice this is not always feasible;

Chimney located on the ridge

Rules for the location of the chimney duct on the roof of the bathhouse

Required Items

Installing a pipe into a bathhouse through the roof is impossible without the following elements:

cutting, similar to the passage through the ceiling;
insulating material (compliance with safety rules);
a special apron that protects the chimney from precipitation.

Cuttings can be used either ready-made or self-made.

Aprons can be:

metal, ensuring a rigid connection of the structure to the roof surface;

Metal apron

Sheet with built-in apron

Instructions for removing the pipe

How to remove a pipe in a bathhouse through the roof? To do this you need:

make a hole of a suitable size in the selected place on the roof (slightly larger than the outlet pipe);
Carry out reinforcement work around the hole on the floor beams;
install a groove from the inside of the roof, as when crossing the ceiling;
bring out the pipe of the required size;
install an apron in the outer part of the roof.

Scheme of arranging a passage through the roof

So, knowing the rules fire safety and instructions for arranging the main components, you can install the chimney for a bathhouse yourself. To do this, you need to purchase all the materials and basic elements of the system. Before firing the stove for the first time, time is required to dry the sealants used (approximately 1 day) and check the tightness of all joints of the chimney duct.

How to route a bathhouse pipe through the roof

It is easier to carry out a pipe in a bathhouse through the ceiling using a ready-made passage unit, which can be purchased in a store. The passage of the pipe is carried out with the mandatory use of insulating materials.

How to remove a pipe in a bathhouse through the ceiling? Many owners of houses and bathhouses equipped with stoves face this issue. When installing a chimney in a bathhouse, an important point is the passage of the pipe through the ceiling. If the building is made of wood, then proper cutting of the chimney becomes a primary task to ensure fire safety. Only careful compliance with all established standards guarantees long and uninterrupted service of your property.

Exhausting the chimney through the ceiling

Before making a pipe in a bathhouse through the ceiling, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the following recommendations.

Safety regulations

When installing a chimney in a bathhouse through the ceiling, it is necessary to follow the recommendations of Sanitary Norms and Rules 41 – 01 – 2003. According to clause 6.6.22, it is necessary to ensure a distance of 130 mm in the case of a brick pipe passing through the ceiling for a chimney, which provides protection for wood. But given that in most cases metal pipes are used in baths, you need to focus on the following standards:

It is necessary to maintain a distance of more than 380 mm to flammable objects protected by insulation;
The minimum distance to flammable objects without insulation must be more than 500 mm.

In this case, these distances must be ensured before the pipeline comes into contact with the tree.

The bathhouse often uses pipes of a special design, called “sandwich”. They are two pipes of different diameters, one of which is located inside the other. The space between them is filled with a layer of insulation. Not many people know that the outer part of such a structure has almost the same temperature as the inside of the chimney.

Need to know! The main purpose of such a device is to ensure normal traction, and not at all to improve fire-fighting properties.

Often, in order to quickly heat the bathhouse, owners allow the stove to overheat. If the temperatures of the external part of the pipe exceed the permissible values of 400 ºС, then this threatens the failure of the external part of the sandwich, which will lead to a fire hazard. Therefore, under no circumstances should the distance between the pipe and surrounding objects be allowed to decrease.

Advice! In the instructions for stoves, manufacturers usually indicate the minimum distance required for the chimney to pass through the ceiling made of various materials. When constructing a chimney, use these values.

Fire protection

So, what insulating material is best to use for thermal protection when constructing a chimney passage through the ceiling with your own hands?

Mineral wool. It retains its properties up to 300 ºC. Rigid mineral wool PZh - 175 can withstand higher temperatures (up to 1000 ºC). The disadvantage is the release of formaldehyde, which can be harmful to health. Also not resistant to water;
Expanded clay. Tolerates wetness well. The disadvantage is the need to construct additional containers to accommodate it;
Basalt cardboard. Environmentally friendly. A sheet 5 mm thick can withstand temperatures up to 900 ºС;
Asbestos. It copes well with fire protection, but at the same time emits harmful substances. Therefore, if it is used for a chimney, it is necessary to isolate the room from it using metal sheets;
Minerite. Able to withstand heating up to 600 ºС, without being destroyed by water and being an absolutely environmentally friendly material.

Basalt cardboard in action. Excellent fire protection.

Some experts still use sand or clay for thermal insulation, but this method is gradually becoming a thing of the past.

You can reduce the likelihood of a fire using several other methods.

Construction of a water jacket on the chimney. This will require a remote tank. It will also be necessary to supply cold water. But the hot water generated can be used in the shower or for heating. But the temperatures above the water jacket will drop significantly, which will reduce the likelihood of the pipe burning out;
You can place a water tank above the stove, which will also protect the chimney from excessive heating. But with this method, you will have to constantly ensure that the water in the tank does not boil and pour cold water in time;
Place stones on the pipe. You will need support to redistribute their mass.

Using all these methods, it is possible to reduce the temperature in the installed passage, which will significantly increase fire safety.

To increase fire safety in the bathhouse, you can use materials such as glass-magnesium sheets and fire-resistant plasterboard sheets. They are used to cover the ceilings themselves and the openings in them through which the chimney passes. Only Premium class sheets marked “NG” are suitable for fire protection. If such marking is absent, then such products cannot be used for fire protection.

Construction of a crossing over the ceiling

Let's look at how to make a chimney in a bathhouse through the ceiling. This can be done in two ways.

Use ready-made cuts;
Install the pass-through unit with your own hands.

Application of ready cuts

In order to fully protect the roof elements from the effects of high temperatures that arise when combustion products pass through the chimney, and at the same time secure the pipe in the required position, the so-called ceiling cutting is used.

To construct a chimney passage through the ceiling, you need to purchase a chimney passage through the ceiling at a hardware store. It is a box made of mineralite or metal connected to a stainless steel plate. There is a hole in the center of the structure into which the sandwich is placed. Such a device also performs, among other things, a decorative function. A plate attached to it covers the ceiling hole, giving it a more aesthetic appearance. In addition, insulation rests on this plate, which fills the space between the ceiling elements and the pipe.

They come in two types:

- with insulation, looking like two plates combined with an insulated pipe;

- without insulation, which is a box made of metal, which must be filled with insulating materials with your own hands and a hole intended for installing pipes.

Cuttings come in different forms. Sometimes they look like a metal cylinder, in which case the plate is significantly larger than it. If such a device is used, and the ceiling hole is square in shape, then it is still necessary to comply with all the listed parameters required to ensure the fire safety of the structure. At the same time, it is necessary to strengthen the protection of wooden bath structures using metal strips.

Installation of a ready-made adapter

Cut a hole in the ceiling, taking into account the overall dimensions of the cut;
If necessary, carry out insulation;
Install the chimney passage unit into the ceiling;
Bring the pipe to the ceiling, and its length should be 100-150 mm less than the height;
Connect the section of pipe located on top of the roof;
Seal all joints that occurred during the passage of the chimney through the wooden floor.

Installation of an adapter made by hand

It is possible to carry out a chimney through the ceiling in a bathhouse without factory components.

Let's look at how to make a ceiling passage unit with your own hands. To do this you will need:

- chimney pipe;

- material chosen for thermal insulation of the pipe passage through the bathhouse ceiling;

- metal plates.

The pipe in the bathhouse through the ceiling and roof is installed following the recommendations described below.

Cut a hole in the ceiling that is 13-18 mm larger than the size of the pipe;
One edge of the pipe is inserted into the hole made;
From inside the room, a plate is placed on the ceiling;
The chimney passage through the ceiling is insulated. It is optimal to make thermal insulation for the ceiling passage unit from mineralite.
The space remaining between the ceiling and the plate must also be filled with a layer of insulation.
The plate is attached using self-tapping screws.

When considering how to install a pipe in a bathhouse through the ceiling, be sure to pay attention to such an important factor as choosing a suitable location for the passage of the ceiling for the chimney.

The main function of the adapter is fire protection

It can be installed either directly on the ridge, providing good traction and no accumulation of sediment; or next to the ridge.

Attention! Never install a chimney where roof slopes meet.

Cutting a chimney installed by yourself will require a little more time than purchased in a store, but will help save money, which is so necessary during construction.

Rules for passing through the ceiling

Before installing a chimney through a wooden ceiling, you need to familiarize yourself with the rules for installing a ceiling passage assembly for a chimney with your own hands.

At the outlet of the furnace, only a metal pipe with thick walls without thermal insulation is installed. This is due to the fact that in this place the temperatures reach values that mineral materials cannot withstand.
The pipe in the bathhouse is routed through the ceiling and roof, surrounded by insulating material.

Where the pipes in the bathhouse are routed through the ceiling, joints are not allowed when crossing the floors. They are possible either below or above them;
The horizontal section should not exceed 1 m;
The maximum number of elbows when passing a chimney in a bathhouse through the ceiling is three;
The passage of a pipe through the ceiling in a bathhouse is not allowed to be rigidly secured.

Joint insulation

When constructing a pipe cut on the ceiling of a bathhouse, they use sealants that ensure the strength of the joints and can withstand high temperatures.

The clamps used in the design must be made of the same material as the chimney itself.

Careful handling of the pipe passage through the roof is very important. Otherwise, the following consequences are possible:

— penetration of moisture into the chimney can lead to gradual destruction of the structure, which will result in the penetration of smoke between the roof and the ceiling, and therefore increase the risk of fire;

— liquid constantly accumulating inside the chimney can lead to the formation of fungus and rust;

— violation of tightness can lead to increased heat loss;

— Water getting inside the roof can lead to rotting of the truss structure.

For additional protection against water ingress, special “aprons” are used. They come in different forms: made of metal and therefore rigidly adjacent to the roof; built in advance into the sheet used to cover the roof; flexible, made of plastic materials - rubber or silicone. The size of these aprons must be selected taking into account the diameter of the chimney pipe.

Therefore, sealing all joints is the final, but at the same time extremely important point in bringing the chimney out.

When installing a chimney of any type, the main thing is to follow fire safety rules. Any chimney is a possible source of fire, since the temperatures of the exhaust gases can be very high and the slightest violation in installation can lead to serious consequences.

Passage of a round chimney pipe through a wooden ceiling using polyurethane foam of various designs

To pass the chimney through wooden structures, you can use a ready-made ceiling-passage assembly (see photo). It is selected based on the outer diameter of the pipe. Before installation, this ceiling passage assembly must be prepared: all surfaces that will come into contact with the wood of the ceiling sheathing, and all internal surfaces The passage box is lined with thermal insulation.

Usually basalt wool serves as thermal insulation, but it must be special: it can withstand high temperatures. When purchasing a material, make sure that it is designed for use at temperatures of 800-1000 o C. These materials have more high cost, but skimping on security is unwise. Cheaper options contain binders that sinter at high temperatures, causing the thermal insulation to lose all its properties, and this can lead to a fire. In addition, it is advisable to use foil heat insulator - this will make the structure even safer.

Having insulated the passage unit, prepare a place for its installation. Mark on the ceiling where the chimney will be located. Outline a hole of a suitable size: slightly smaller sizes the front panel of the pass-through unit in such a way that it is convenient to attach it to the ceiling trim with self-tapping screws. Having cut a hole, cover its edges with the same heat insulator as the pass-through unit, or any other with similar properties. To increase the level of fire safety, metal strips can be strengthened on top of the heat insulator. Insert the prepared passage unit into the finished hole. It can be put on the pipe and installed with it. Having installed this structure in place, secure the panel of the passage unit with self-tapping screws (the holes can be pre-drilled).

After checking the vertical installation of the chimney pipe, proceed to complete this stage. The voids remaining in the passage unit are filled with thermal insulation. You can use pieces of the same basalt wool or fill the voids with expanded clay. In theory, you can use sand, but you shouldn’t. It is inferior in terms of thermal insulation properties to both expanded clay and basalt wool; in addition, sooner or later it will end up at the bottom, since there are cracks, and through them grains of sand will fall onto the stove.

Further actions depend on where you led the chimney: to the second floor or to the attic. But the main difference is in aesthetics and the availability of finishing. If you brought the chimney pipe into the attic, the passage through the ceiling can be considered complete. If you brought the chimney to the second floor or into the attic, you put a protective metal screen on the pipe, which is now attached to the floor with the same self-tapping screws. After this, proceed to the next stage - withdrawal through next ceiling(this is if you are on the second floor) or through the roof, if in the attic or attic.

The chimney passage through the ceiling may also look like this. This is a ready-to-use option that consists of two boxes. The inner box is made of metal, the outer one is made of heat-resistant material (in this case, mineralite).

There is an air gap between them, ensuring fire safety. According to the manufacturers, the remaining free space between the sandwich pipe and the cutting box does not require filling with a heat insulator. You can leave everything as is, or you can, for greater reliability, still add heat-resistant thermal insulation. In such a case, such as a chimney passing through a wooden ceiling, it is better to be on the safe side than to put out the fire later.

The passage through the ceiling can be like this (see photo). In this case, sealing the edges of the hole in the ceiling is mandatory (remember, there is thermal insulation around the edge first, metal on top).

Pipe passage through a chimney without a factory passage unit

You can remove the chimney without pass-through device. In this case, the edges of the hole in the ceiling are also sealed with a fire-resistant heat insulator, and metal strips are placed on top of it. A protective plate made of non-flammable material is put on the sandwich coming from the oven, in which a hole of a suitable diameter is cut, and holes are drilled along the edges for fasteners. Traditionally this is a sheet of metal. Next, the sandwich is passed into a hole in the ceiling and fixed there using some non-flammable guides. For example, you can use drywall profiles or something similar. The main thing is to securely fasten the pipe and observe the basic rule of fire safety: there must be a distance of at least 36 cm from the edge of the pipe to the flammable material.

Important! When installing and securing the chimney, keep in mind that the pipe changes its size due to thermal expansion. It must be secured so that it can move relative to the roof.

Then the pipe is hemmed from below (from the ceiling) non-flammable material. From the attic or second floor side, the voids formed in the groove are filled with a heat insulator. The requirements for it are still the same: tolerance to high temperatures. Expanded clay may be the most budget-friendly. Actually, this completes the exit of the chimney pipe through the ceiling.

Passage through the ceiling of a brick chimney

Brick is a good heat insulator in itself, however, it is also required for brick oven compliance with the rules for passing through flammable materials: there must be a distance of at least 25 cm from the edge of the chimney duct to this material. To ensure this, stove makers make a special penetration on the pipe (see picture) increasing the thickness of the wall of the brick chimney at the point of passage through the ceiling.

If for some reason it is impossible to make such a penetration, you can cut a hole in the ceiling that will be 10 centimeters larger than the size of the chimney on each side. And then repeat the penetration of the round stove through the ceiling:

seal the edges with heat-resistant thermal insulation material;
cover it with strips of metal (minerite is also suitable if someone has it);
sew up the side of the room with a metal sheet;
Fill the resulting voids on the attic/second floor side with heat-resistant thermal insulation material;
if necessary, cover the ceiling cutout from the attic/second floor side with a sheet of metal.

With this option, the brick pipe is quite reliably insulated (just use heat-resistant heat insulating materials with a use temperature of 800-1000 o C).

Passage through the roof of a brick chimney

The passage of a chimney through the roof must be solved simultaneously by two not very simple tasks: Ensure fire safety and tightness. According to fire safety rules, in places where the chimney comes into contact with flammable materials, the temperature of the chimney walls should not be higher than 50 o C. For brick chimneys, this is solved by increasing the thickness of the walls. For this purpose, stove makers lay out a special penetration. Single solution not here, since a lot depends on the angle of the roof. That’s why this option is not very popular today - it’s hard to find a person who can competently and safely make such a penetration through the roof.

How is the question resolved then? They simply make a square or rectangular pipe, which is taken out between rafter legs, transverse beams are installed above and below the pipe. Distance between pipe and wooden elements designs – 13-25cm. If the distance between the rafters is greater, additional ones are installed. This way we minimize the damage that we will definitely cause to the hydro- and vapor barrier of the roof: in order to remove the pipe we will have to break the integrity of the films and membranes. When installing the chimney, it ends up in a separate box. The films and membranes inside this box are carefully cut. The cut geometry is similar to the geometry of a pipe or box, but smaller than the dimensions of the rafter box. In the corners, the films are cut at an angle (envelope), the edges of the films are folded and fixed with staples or clamping strips to the elements of the rafter system. The edges and entry points of fasteners are sealed adhesive tapes or sealants. This operation should be carried out carefully - the durability and reliability of the roof depends on it.

There is another option. This is possible if the temperature of the pipe in the roof area is not higher than 50 o C. In this case, the edges of the films can be glued to the pipe with sealants or the same adhesive tapes (trying to seal everything as best as possible). Now between the rafters and the brick pipe there is a free space. It is laid with a heat-resistant heat insulator.

Drainage of water from joints

The most difficult thing is to seal the joint brick pipe and roofing if rigid roofing material is used.

First, a lower apron is installed around the pipe. It is usually made of tin and consists of four elements: two sides, a top and a bottom. How to do it, see the next video. Everything is told in detail.

A so-called “tie” must be placed under the lower apron. This is a section of roofing material, a sheet of tin or galvanized metal, which will drain water to the drain (the tie should be this long - extend slightly into the drain) if the chimney is located low or into the valley, if it is closer. The following video further demonstrates the technique for installing an internal brick chimney flashing and also shows how to install a tie and external decorative flashing.

In general, as many materials as there are, there are as many ways to install a pass-through assembly. Another video demonstrating another technique for waterproofing a brick pipe. Here they use modern materials, which are produced by Ondulin manufacturers.

It is much easier to waterproof the joint between the chimney pipe and the roof, if used soft tiles or other soft flexible roofing material. On a plastered pipe, coated with impregnation for better adhesion, this material is simply bent and trimmed. You can apply a layer of sealant along the edge of the curved roofing material and secure everything using a pressure strip. The place where the roofing material is connected, the pipe and the strip are also treated with sealant. This video demonstrates the technique of sealing a chimney using soft tiles.

Passage through the roof of a round pipe

The passage unit for round pipes through the roof can be either metal or soft - rubber or silicone. Metal roof penetrations are made of galvanized iron, sometimes they are coated with protective covering, similar in color and composition to the coating of metal tiles.

Metal tile manufacturers often offer special penetrations: this is the same sheet of roofing material to which an elastic rubber cap is attached, which serves as an excellent insulator.

For other roofing materials, flexible penetrations can be used as a roof penetration unit. There are many of them on the market today. Different colors, compositions, under different angles roof slope, straight penetrations, with different types fastenings (for self-tapping screws, with applied adhesive, etc.).

Among all the flexible sinker Master Flash (Master Flash) has the most good recommendations. It is quite easy to distinguish: in addition to the company name printed on the back side roof penetration There are additional grooves that increase the degree of fit to any roofing material. On the outside, the base along the edge has a metallized coating, with which it is easy to achieve any desired relief.

To install a flexible penetration, part of the outer cap is cut off - the diameter of the resulting hole should be less than the diameter of the pipe. The penetration is pulled onto the pipe with force. To reduce resistance, you can coat the surface of the pipe with soapy water. After the penetration is tensioned, the lower flange is given the required configuration. On the back side it is coated with sealant, then pressed against the roof and fixed with self-tapping screws. This method of sealing round pipe not very labor intensive, but quite reliable.

Silicone and rubber penetrations are used at pipe temperatures up to 100 o C. If the chimney temperature is higher, you will have to either additional layer insulation between the penetration and the pipe or, more likely, use a metal skirt and glass. Demonstrates what they look like and how to secure them next video. Everything was done there not entirely correctly, but the installation principle is clear.

FORUMHOUSE users are well aware that high-quality installation metal chimney directly affects the safety of living in the cottage. We have already written about that. It's time to talk about the features of installing a steel chimney.

1. What is a sandwich chimney

Despite big choice materials for the installation of smoke exhaust systems, reliable steel sandwich chimneys are most widely used in private housing construction.

A sandwich type chimney consists of two pipes of different diameters inserted into each other, and all the free space between them is a place for filling non-combustible insulation– mineral wool.

Mineral wool simultaneously plays the role of insulation and insulator.

Sandwich chimneys have the following main advantages:

High installation speed and low cost compared to brick chimneys;
Low weight of the smoke removal system;
Smooth internal walls of the chimney provide good draft and help reduce soot formation;
The use of acid-resistant stainless steel grades guarantees long term chimney services.

The temperature of the flue gases directly depends on the type heating boiler and the type of fuel used. The higher the temperature of the exhaust flue gases, the more the pipe and, accordingly, everything heats up. structural elements through which it passes. The following table will help you understand the dependence of the flue gas temperature on the type of boiler and the type of fuel used.

It should be remembered that unprotected wood begins to char at a temperature of 200° C. Well-dried wood can ignite from an open flame source at a temperature of 270-290° C. What if wooden surface is subjected to constant heating for more than 24 hours in a row, it can spontaneously ignite even at a temperature of 170 ° C. Therefore, when installing a sandwich chimney, it is important to observe all fire safety measures. And any mistake made at this stage can lead to dire consequences - fire and loss of property.

Urban:

– Two of my friends’ houses burned down due to an improperly installed sandwich chimney. Moreover, in both cases, the fire occurred in the place where the chimney exit was located through the wooden ceiling.

According to statistics, up to 80% of fires occur precisely because of improperly installed chimneys. Therefore, when choosing and installing a chimney, you must adhere to SNiP 41-01-2003 “Heating, ventilation and air conditioning”.

2. Chimney: distance to the floor slab and correct penetration

As practice shows, greatest number questions arise when calculating the distances from the chimney to the wooden floors.

VadimPro:

– I built a house with a distance between the rafters of 60 cm. And only then I found out that according to existing standards, my chimney does not fit into this distance.

And again SNiPs come to our aid:

vova230:

– According to the standards, when driving through wooden floors, it is necessary to maintain a distance of 38 cm from the inner pipe of the sandwich to the combustible structures. All this space must be filled with fireproof material. If the standard passage does not provide this distance, then the dimensions of the furnace passage must be further increased.

If the chimney is laid through protected wooden structures, the distance can be reduced to 25 cm.

Protection of wooden structures - joists, ends of rafters, sheathing - is ensured by a galvanized sheet with an asbestos sheet of at least 5 mm thick laid between it and the wood.

Galvanization performs the following functions:

Prevents the spread of fire in the ceiling;
Provides uniform heat dissipation;
Screens and reflects thermal radiation, coming from the pipe.

In case of penetration interfloor ceilings With a single-pipe steel chimney, the distance to unprotected wooden structures must be at least 50 cm!

Also, the parameters of the chimney should be calculated in such a way that the chimney pipe passes through the entire ceiling - without joints with other elements. The chimney itself is installed through a passage pipe-cut, which is a metal box.

Specialist from the portal website Alexey Telegin from Moscow recommends:

– According to the standards, the thickness of the cutting (metal box) should exceed the thickness of the ceiling by 7 cm.

Sealing of floors at the passage point metal pipes from the stove with basalt fiber cardboard

Installation of polyurethane foam chimney

The process of installing grooves in a wooden floor can be divided into a number of successive steps:

1. Cut a hole in the ceiling with a size of at least 700x700 mm.

2. If necessary, remove or strengthen the floor beams.

3. We sew up the perimeter of the cut opening with fireproof materials, super insulation, etc.

4. For tightness, we place a sheet of basalt cardboard under the superisol.

5. Let's do it load-bearing frame made of galvanized profile, which is used when installing gypsum boards.

6. The dimensions of the frame are calculated for the PPU (ceiling-passage unit) fastening units.

7. We close the opening with sheets of mineralite or superisol with a hole for the passage of the inner part of the polyurethane foam.

8. We fix the foam.

9. Install the sandwich pipe.

10. We insulate bottom part PPU and the space around it with non-flammable insulation, this will avoid freezing and the formation of frost and condensation.

It is better to install and calculate the smoke removal system at the stage of designing the house!

It is also important to pay attention to how the pipes are connected to each other. There are two methods - “by smoke” and “by condensate”.

Docking “through smoke” - the pipe of the lower bend of the sandwich goes inside the pipe of the upper bend of the sandwich. In this case, flue gases move freely up the walls of the pipe;
Docking “by condensate” - the inner pipe of the sandwich: the upper one is inserted into the lower one, the outer pipe of the sandwich: the lower one is inserted into the upper one. With this installation, the pipe allows condensate to pass through, it flows down freely and does not flow out along the outside of the chimney, which can lead to a fire.

Kotlasky:

– The condensate pipe is usually installed on modern gas boilers, because they have a low temperature of the outgoing smoke.

U metal furnaces, cast iron potbelly stoves, the smoke temperature is about 300°C; the steam that is released when burning wood begins to condense at a temperature of less than 100°C. At the moment of kindling, steam, falling on the cold walls of the chimney, is deposited in the form of water droplets, which roll down the smooth walls of the chimney down into the condensate collector.

The condensate collector is installed outdoors. It is better to assemble a sandwich chimney “by condensate”.

3. Features of penetration through the roof

Penetration through the roof is done according to the same principles as penetration through ceilings. Let's find out if it is correct that when driving through rafters, the distance to protected wooden structures can be reduced to a size of 150 mm.

Alexey Telegin:

– It is assumed that the chimney cools down when passing through the roof, and the space around it is well ventilated, so you can reduce the gap to the protected rafters. In my opinion, this may be true for cold roof, and when insulated, you need to apply the same standards and distances as for interfloor ceilings.

The correct ceiling cut for the chimney is the key to the safety and longevity of your bathhouse. In a matter like Fire safety, it is better to overdo it with security measures than to underdo something. It is unlikely that anyone will argue with this. Therefore, we study the recommendations of the fire service and make a chimney passage through the ceiling of the bathhouse according to all the rules.

For the pipe in the bathhouse, you need to make a special passage through the ceiling. This is a device that provides safe distances from the outer surface of the pipe to the ceiling materials. They are regulated by SNiP 2.04.05-91. The recommendations are as follows (paragraph 3.83):

from the outer surfaces of brick and concrete pipes to combustible rafters and sheathing - at least 130 mm;
from ceramic pipes without insulation - at least 250 mm, from them with thermal insulation - 130 mm.

These numbers must be taken into account when installing floor beams. Their pitch is usually taken to be small - about 60 cm. With this pitch, the recommended distances will only be maintained when using pipes with insulation. For example, sandwiches.

The diameter of the furnace outlet pipe is most often 115-120 mm. If you use a sandwich with an insulation thickness of 100 mm when passing through the ceiling, outside diameter will be 315-320 mm. There must be a distance of at least 130 mm on all sides. It turns out that in this case the distance between adjacent beams should be 130 mm * 2 + 315 mm = 575 mm. We just fall into the gap of 60 cm.

There are a lot of sandwiches on the market with insulation thicknesses of 35, 40, 45 and 50 mm. You can find a 100 mm layer mainly in stores specializing in sauna stoves. Only in sauna chimneys There are temperatures from which you need to protect yourself with a 100 mm layer of mineral wool. Is it possible to use a 50mm layer? You can, but if you want to take it easy, take 100 mm - it’s more reliable.

Let's calculate minimum distance, for chimneys without insulation. In this case, with an internal diameter of 115 mm, the safe distance from the outer edge of the pipe to flammable materials is 250 mm. The distance between the beams in this case should be 250 mm * 2 + 115 mm = 615 mm. It may be a little, but it doesn’t go away. But this calculation is not for the most large diameter smoke channel. There are many more. In any case, if the ceiling has not yet been made, calculate the installation pitch of the beams taking this factor into account.

This cannot be done - the distance from the pipe to the ceiling and wall is very small, and the wood is also not protected

At the same time, mandatory Appendix 16 contains recommendations on the setback (distance from the outer surface of the pipe to combustible materials):

for a fire-resistant partition:
- with a pipe thickness of 120 mm - 200-260 mm;
- with a pipe thickness of 65 mm - 380 mm.
for an unprotected partition:
- with a pipe thickness of 120 mm - 260-320 mm;
- with a pipe thickness of 65 mm - 320-500 mm.

In this application we're talking about about retreat from the walls. After all, very often chimneys pass close to walls. And their material also needs protection: the temperature of the flue gases at the outlet of the furnace can reach 500°C. If wood walls are not protected by anything, they will char and then burst into flames. Therefore, a layer of thermal insulation is laid on the walls (cardboard made of mineral wool is suitable), and a sheet of polished stainless steel is stuffed on top.

Types of ceiling penetrations

When crossing the ceiling, it is necessary to protect the “pie” materials from heat, and also somehow fix the pipe in a certain position. This task is accomplished by a ceiling cutout or, as it is also called, a “passage unit.”

The pass-through units are industrially manufactured. They are a box made of metal or mineralite, to which a stainless or galvanized steel plate is attached on one side. A hole is made in the middle of this assembly into which a sandwich is inserted. The plate on the side of the room closes the hole in the ceiling, decorating it. It also serves as a support for the heat insulator, which is used to fill the gap between the pipe and the floor beams for better thermal insulation.

There is no disagreement regarding what material to use for the penetrations in the bathhouse: only stainless steel. The fact is that at temperatures that are typical for steam rooms, galvanization releases far from the most useful substances. Therefore, there is only one option: stainless steel.

Everything is installed simply. If the ceiling was made without taking into account the passage of the pipe, in in the right place(between the beams) a square hole is cut out, which is 1-2 cm smaller than the size of the decorative panel. Beams and boards are covered with a layer of thermal insulation. If available, you can nail down strips of mineralite, basalt or asbestos cement cardboard (asbestos is harmful, so use it only as a last resort), just a strip of stone wool insulation. In some cases, padding of the insulation with metal strips is required (when it is needed, see below).

You can't do that - you had to cut a square hole. And the lining on the ceiling near the pipe is already charred...

When installing a pipe on a stove, the device is placed on a straight section that will cross the ceiling. The passage unit simply rises to the desired level. A strip of thermal insulation is placed under its edges that touch the ceiling boards, then everything is fixed with self-tapping screws. In many units, manufacturers even make perforations for self-tapping screws, so even this is not a problem.

The configuration of these products varies. Sometimes a metal cylinder is made around the hole for the pipe. The edges of the decorative plate protrude significantly beyond this cylinder. When installing a pass-through unit of this type, the hole is cut anyway square shape. A circle is also possible, but there must be a distance of at least 130 mm from the pipe to its edge if the pipe is insulated, and 250 mm if it is without insulation. With this option, please note: the size of the plate should be sufficient to mask the hole. In addition, with this form of passage through the ceiling, it is imperative to protect the wood of the ceiling not only with heat insulators, but also to cover it with strips of metal.

There are passage units in which there is no cylinder around the pipe, but there are outer sides around the perimeter. They are made of metal, and can also be made of mineralite. If the sides are made of metal, the edges of the cutout in the ceiling must be lined with a heat insulator (for example, basalt cardboard or the same mineralite). If the sides are made of mineralite, then they themselves are a good heat insulator. So additional thermal insulation of the edges of the cutout is not necessary (but you can play it safe).

Rules for passing through the ceiling

When planning the size of the chimney, consider several rules:

What thermal insulator to use

After the device is fixed to the ceiling, they go up to the attic or second floor and fill the gap between the outer wall of the pipe and the beams with heat insulator.

Basalt wool can be used as thermal insulation. But be sure to check that the operating temperature range should be greater than 600°C.

Some people think this option is not the best. Firstly, during production, resins are used as a binder, which release formaldehyde when heated. Secondly, condensation sometimes runs through the pipe. A mineral wool(and basalt ones too) when wet, they lose their heat-protective properties. And when they dry, they are only partially restored. So this option is really not the best.

The penetration is also covered with expanded clay of medium and fine fractions. This is a natural material that has relatively light weight. Even if it gets wet, it then dries and restores its properties. When wet, the thermal conductivity increases slightly, but it is already worse for expanded clay than for mineral wool.

In the past, sand was often used. The option is not bad in all respects, except for one detail: it gradually wakes up through the cracks. Refilling the sandbox is not difficult, but constant sand on the stove is annoying.

If we talk about natural heat insulators, then you can use clay. It is diluted to a paste-like state and the entire gap is covered. Sometimes expanded clay is used as a filler.

One of the heat insulators is expanded clay

Here is a review of the use of clay when passing a bath pipe:

“Clay rules in cutting! I dismantled the chimney in my bathhouse. Or rather, I took apart what was left: there was a lot of snow, and when it melted, it blew off the entire top. Once you change the top, you need to look at the bottom: the pipe has been standing for 7 years. So here it is. There is zero burning inside, and there is no burnout of the pipe either. Condition: as soon as installed. My penetration is chipped around the perimeter basalt wool, and then everything is covered with clay. This is definitely the best option."

Not everyone recommends using insulation in the passage unit. There is an opinion that it is better to leave the gap unfilled: this way it will be possible to avoid overheating and burning out of this section of the pipe - it will cool better due to air blowing. This may be true, but the radiation from the heated pipe will dry out the nearby wood, and in this case the temperature of spontaneous combustion is significantly reduced - to +50°C.

There are several ways to avoid overheating. The first, and most rational, is to use the heat that flies into the pipe and heats it to extreme temperatures for own needs. There are three options:

One way to avoid overheating is to place stones on the pipe

Do on metal chimney water jacket, and use hot water for showering or heating. The system is not so simple; it also requires a remote tank, as well as pipe connections, cold water supply, etc. But temperatures above the water jacket will not be nearly as high, and the pipe will not burn out.
You can also heat water, but it’s easier: install a samovar-type tank. Hot water is also provided, the chimney does not overheat and is protected. But there are some nuances here: do not let it boil, drain the heated one in time, add the cold one. And doing this is not entirely convenient, since the tank is located quite high: above the stove on a pipe.
Adapt a net for stones. The water will have to be heated in a different way, but the advantage here is this: after the procedure is completed, the stones dry the bath. Here, too, difficulties may arise: the weight of the stones is considerable, it is unlikely that you can do without support, unless you use the factory version (on the right in the figure). IN homemade version a structure will be needed to redistribute the mass.

When using any of these methods, the pipe temperatures in the ceiling passage are significantly reduced. The likelihood of burning becomes very small. That's not all. There is a way - simply cool with air. To do this, another one of larger diameter is put on the heat-insulated pipe. A grate is made at the bottom and top through which air enters/exits. For a steam room this is not an option - it will draw out all the steam, but for a washing room it can be used. The method is especially good in the attic and when passing through the roof.

Homemade ceiling cuts

It is possible to install a chimney through the ceiling in a bathhouse without using factory components. You will need:

As you can see, ceiling cutting is easy to do with your own hands. This is the simplest, but quite reliable option. Another option is presented in the video. The work is more complex, but if you have the appropriate skills, this option of passing a pipe through the ceiling can also be done with your own hands.

Seal the brick pipe passage through the ceiling. Ceiling trim for chimney. Brick pipe laying

Read also

Safety regulations

Fire protection

Construction of a crossing over the ceiling

Rules for passing through the ceiling

Chimney outlet: requirements for how to make a chimney in a bathhouse and bring it out through the ceiling

About distances to combustible structures

Types of ceiling penetrations

Rules for passing through the ceiling

What thermal insulator should I use?

Conclusion

We carry out the correct installation of the chimney in the bathhouse: we go through the ceiling and roof

We run the chimney through the ceiling

Highlights of exiting through the roof

Chimney made of iron pipe

How to properly route a pipe in a bathhouse through the ceiling and roof

Safety regulations

Crossing the ceiling

Exiting the smoke duct to the roof

Safety regulations

Fire protection

Construction of a crossing over the ceiling

Application of ready cuts

Installation of an adapter made by hand

Rules for passing through the ceiling

Joint insulation

Passage of a round chimney pipe through a wooden ceiling using polyurethane foam of various designs

Pipe passage through a chimney without a factory passage unit

Passage through the ceiling of a brick chimney

Passage through the roof of a brick chimney

Drainage of water from joints

Passage through the roof of a round pipe

Types of ceiling penetrations

Rules for passing through the ceiling

What thermal insulator to use

Homemade ceiling cuts