We grow tomatoes on the balcony with our own hands. Growing tomatoes on the balcony Balcony old potted tomatoes

We grow tomatoes on the balcony with our own hands.  Growing tomatoes on the balcony Balcony old potted tomatoes
We grow tomatoes on the balcony with our own hands. Growing tomatoes on the balcony Balcony old potted tomatoes

In the absence of a personal plot, many resort to cunning, growing various vegetables and herbs on the windowsill and even the balcony. Certain varieties of tomatoes also ripen well in apartment conditions, and the loggia serves as a kind of greenhouse.

By following step-by-step instructions for growing tomatoes on the balcony, you can reap a decent harvest. The vegetables will be environmentally friendly; if you follow the growing and care techniques, the fruits will be juicy and large. The harvest is unlikely to be enough for conservation, but even for beginners, seedlings and ripe fruits will be enough for food.

If there is a glazed loggia, the seedlings ripen in conditions identical to greenhouse conditions. The care and cultivation options need to be adjusted if there is no glazing and the bushes actually grow in open ground.

Varieties for balcony growing

Balcony tomatoes are varieties characterized by low bush growth, abundant harvest, and large fleshy fruits. When selecting, it is necessary to take into account the illumination of the balcony, the average air temperature if there is no glazing, as well as the area on which cultivation is planned.

Varieties of tomatoes for the balcony:

  1. Angelica ideal for growing in loggia conditions. A low-growing variety with a bountiful harvest. Average term ripening – 80 days. The fruits are elongated, have a sharp tip, are light in weight, and are collected in clusters of 7–9 pieces.
  2. Pearl the height can reach a maximum of 40 cm. The fruit has a round shape, small mass, clusters of 5–7 pieces. The taste of the pulp is sweetish and juicy.
  3. Florida Petite characterized by high early maturity and short stature. The maximum fruiting period is 21 days. The harvest reaches 2–3 dozen tomatoes per plant. The taste is sweetish, the skin is dense.
  4. Minibell– an early ripening variety, characterized by a short vegetative phase. The fruit is light weight, red, all tomatoes in one bunch ripen at the same time.
  5. Pinocchio– an unpretentious variety to care for, the harvest ripens early.
  6. F1 Balcony red– one of the fastest ripening varieties (maximum 3 months from germination). Medium-sized tomato, sugary, sweet pulp. The average height of the bush is 25-28 cm.

The following varieties are also suitable for the windowsill - Red Pearl, Cherry, Cascade Red. Such species do not need to be pollinated; the fruits are usually small size. They differ in terms of ripening and taste.

How to create the right conditions on the balcony

You can grow tomatoes on the balcony only with proper preparation of the place:

  1. Sufficient lighting is important. If the loggia is under sunlight, shading required. Balconies where Sun rays penetrate less than 3 hours a day (northern sides).
  2. It is advisable to place containers as close to the wall or near the railing as possible. This will minimize wind exposure, which can slow down the bush's growth. If you take baskets, hang them at a height of 1-1.5 meters from the floor. Plants that require staking must be attached to special boards made of plastic or tension ropes. To cultivate the most low-growing varieties a garter may not be required.
  3. Natural insecticides are spices. Place pots of mint, oregano, parsley, and celery next to the seedlings.

When growing on a glassed-in loggia, ventilate it at least twice a day.

Preparatory work

Abundant Harvest is possible only if you follow the technique of growing low-growing varieties of tomatoes. Step-by-step instruction:

  • prepare the seeds;
  • select containers. For a balcony, 5-7 liter plastic bottles are ideal (they take up less space);
  • prepare the soil, making it as fertile as possible;
  • then the seeds are sowed, watered, the container is covered with film and transferred to a dark place;
  • after the leaves appear, it is necessary to increase the lighting; additional lamps can be used;
  • upon successful germination, future bushes are planted in separate pots, and as they grow, they are planted on permanent place in spacious containers.

How to choose a growing container

Growing tomatoes on the balcony is possible in various containers– wooden boxes rectangular shape, plastic container, which is convenient to place close to the walls or railings. Round pots occupy more space. In Japan, a popular method of growing tomatoes is plastic bottles.

For use, the neck together with the screw cap is cut off to form cylinders of equal diameter. Optimal size pot - 5-10 liters depending on the selected variety.

Soil preparation

The soil for sowing can be prepared independently; ready-made mixtures based on humus and turf in equal proportions are also suitable. To improve looseness, add dry sawdust or peat. Almost all varieties show high yield in nutritious and light soil with slightly alkaline or neutral acidity.

The following mixtures are preferred:

  • soil from the garden + washed river sand + compost;
  • turf land+ ready-made peat-based substrate + compost;
  • humus + peat + garden soil.

When preparing the soil, all components are mixed; to increase the nutritional value, you can add superphosphate or birch ash.

Growing seedlings

For rapid growth, experienced gardeners use the seedling method. Already in March, you can plant seeds so that in 3-4 months, depending on the variety, you can get the first ripe harvest.

Sowing seeds

Basically, two methods of planting seeds in the ground are used:

  1. Buy special cups. Fill them with soil and fill them with hot water. After cooling, you can put one sprouted seed in one glass. Without preliminary germination, you need to place 2-3 pieces in the prepared soil. You should not make holes in the bottom of the container, since due to its small volume, the water will be completely absorbed by the root system. After planting, move the glasses to a warm place and cover with cellophane film. After three days, move them to a cool place by organizing artificial lighting. Watering is done as soon as the soil dries out.
  2. The next method involves pre-treatment seeds with a pinkish solution of potassium permanganate. After disinfection, they are laid out on a dampened cloth in a flat plate and covered with cellophane film. It is necessary to create a moist, warm environment. As soon as the sprouts appear, the seeds are placed in the soil, covered with glass and put away in a warm place. When the sprouts come to the surface, the container is transferred to the refrigerator. Regular watering is carried out warm water– better if left for 2 days.

Seedling care

In terms of caring for future seedlings, perform the following activities:

  1. Watering is carried out as soon as the visible layer of soil dries, it is necessary to pour in small portions of settled water room temperature. At the initial stages it is used hot water for fast germination.
  2. To speed up growth, you can use Epin solution or other fertilizers.
  3. Provide good lighting. It is optimal if it is the sun's rays. But the lighting should be in moderation so that the plants do not dry out.

Do not get carried away with watering; if the ground becomes too wet, the roots will not receive air, and as a result the bush will die. But too dry soil will lead to yellowing of the first leaves of the plants.

Transfer to a permanent place

It will take about 30 days to obtain strong, high-quality seedlings. After this period, prepare containers, such as plastic bottles. To ensure optimal drainage, it is necessary to place broken tiles on the bottom of the container. Feed the soil with organic matter in advance. Fill the pots to a maximum of 1/3 of the height, place the seedling on top.

Gently spread the roots into different sides, press them in with a light movement. Lay out the soil in parts and compact it manually at the same time. Maximum filling is 2/3 of the container height. The soil is compacted carefully, then the bush is watered generously with warm water, waiting for each portion to be absorbed.

During the first 7 days, do not touch the seedlings so that the bushes take root properly.

Caring for balcony tomatoes

From proper cultivation quantity depends collected tomatoes Therefore, high-quality care is required from planting to harvest.

Watering and fertilizing

Seedlings must be cared for regularly. To fertilize, apply mineral fertilizer (weekly); against late blight, treatment with a mixture of potassium permanganate and garlic is necessary (500 ml of water, half a tablespoon of ground garlic cloves, 0.5 g of potassium permanganate).

Watering is carried out less frequently than under conditions natural soil, depending on the level of soil moisture. After the ovary appears, keep the soil slightly dry.

Loosening

For fast and high-quality root growth, organize aeration. As the soil dries, remove the dense crust using special gardening Tools with teeth and short handle. The minimum distance from the stems is 4-5 cm.

By mulching with fluoride, you can reduce the need for loosening. Mulch is laid at the picking stage.

Bush formation

Balcony tomatoes require the formation of a bush. When a bunch of tomatoes appears, the lower leaves are cut off. If this is not done, the plants will be larger than required, and the inflorescences may not develop at all.

Complete removal leaves are not needed, since the synthesis of organic substances will be disrupted.

Pollination

Self-pollinating varieties are usually used, but to avoid barren flowers, two methods can be used:

  • walk over the blooming flowers with cotton wool wrapped around a stick;
  • tap the stem of the plant.

It is best to carry out such pollination when high temperature in the first half of the day, after watering the soil. Even when growing tomatoes on the balcony, you can find a ready-made composition used for pollination. It is used in areas where there are not enough pollinated insects, and is also suitable for home method breeding.

Remember to pick ripe red tomatoes to allow the rest of the fruit to ripen. To increase the humidity of the surrounding air, you can use spraying or place containers of water near the bush. Parts of the bush should not be sprayed.

When fertilizing, avoid excess nitrogen, which can lead to excessive branching of the bush and reduced yield. To control the temperature, hang a thermometer, and if there is a threat of frost, move the pots into the room or cover them in two layers with a warm blanket.

To grow tomatoes you don't need to have land plot In the countryside. Owners of city apartments can harvest tomatoes on their balconies. True, they may not be enough for winter preparations, but it is quite possible to satisfy the needs of a family of 4 people with summer vegetable salads. You can grow tomatoes on a balcony with or without glazing by slightly changing the way you care for the plants.

What varieties of tomatoes to choose for growing on the balcony

You can plant any tomatoes on the balcony: short and tall, early, medium and late ripening varieties. But you need to take into account the possibilities of the balcony. Since it is impossible to allocate a sufficient area for a bed of tomatoes, you should choose varieties that are most suitable for growing in a limited space. For example, if you plant tall, late-ripening tomatoes, the bushes will take up a lot of space, and you will have to wait until August for the fruits. In addition, the developed root system of such tomatoes requires a large volume of soil, which in conditions small balcony difficult to provide.

Low-growing tomatoes for the balcony:

  • Pearl. The height of an adult bush reaches only 40 cm, the fruits are round, small, and grow in clusters of up to 7 pieces. They have a sweetish, pleasant taste;
  • Angelica. An early ripening variety of tomatoes, ideally suited for growing on the balcony. The ripening time from emergence is approximately 80 days. The fruits are ovoid in shape with a sharp tip at the end, medium in size, growing in clusters of 6-10 pieces;
  • Minibell. Early ripening tomatoes with a short growing season. The fruits are red, small, grow in clusters, and ripen almost simultaneously;
  • Florida Petit. A low-growing, early-ripening variety, fruiting lasts only 3 weeks, but during this time you can collect several dozen red, sweetish-tasting salad tomatoes from one bush.

Popular varieties for gardening on the balcony are cherry tomatoes. In size and shape they really look like large cherries. They bear fruit abundantly, in long clusters, and come in red, yellow, pink and even black. Cherries are grown not only for the purpose of producing tasty tomatoes, they are very impressive and are often used for decorative landscaping balconies.

Cocktail tomatoes are a piquant new product from breeders. Their fruits are slightly larger than cherry tomatoes and are suitable for canning and consumption. fresh and preparing pizza and other dishes. Cocktail tomato bushes are tall, require a large amount of land for cultivation, and are characterized by good yield.

Cocktail tomatoes for the balcony:

  • Butterfly. The fruits are oblong and beautifully shaped with smooth surface. More than 20 small tomatoes of bright red-raspberry color can grow on highly branched inflorescences;
  • Romantic. A high-yielding variety, the bush grows up to 1.6 m in height, the fruits are regular round shape, weighing about 50 g;
  • Ballerina. Also a tall variety of tomatoes, it produces unusual pear-shaped fruits of bright pink color.

Preparing seeds for sowing

To harvest the first tomato fruits as early as June, you can begin preparing the seeds for sowing in February. If several varieties of tomatoes are taken for cultivation, you should not mix them - each variety goes through the preparatory stage separately. In order not to confuse the varieties, each of them is signed.

Seed preparation:

  • A light pink solution of potassium permanganate is prepared, the seeds are dipped into it and pickled for 3 hours;
  • You can replace potassium permanganate chemicals Fitosporin and Trichodermin. They have a bactericidal and fungicidal effect and destroy disease carriers located on seeds, the presence of which cannot be visually determined;
  • After disinfection, the seeds are treated with biostimulants that increase germination and reanimate damaged seed. For biostimulation of tomatoes, the preparations Epin-Extra and Zircon are used;
  • The seeds are placed in a moist environment (moistened cloth) and left on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator for 2 days. Hardening will prepare future plants for unstable air temperatures and make them more resistant to nighttime temperature drops.

Tomato seeds have a high germination rate, so they do not need to be germinated before sowing. During processing and hardening, the seeds are already sufficiently saturated with moisture and swollen, so they can be slightly dried so that they do not stick to one another, and they are completely ready for sowing as seedlings.

Growing seedlings

At this stage of tomato growing, the goal is to obtain strong, healthy seedlings. The future harvest depends on how viable it is. It will be very sad not to get the expected result after all the hard work.

Sowing seeds

In plastic or wooden box a layer of expanded clay is poured 8 cm high, and a soil mixture of equal parts is poured on top fertile land, peat and sand. The soil is spilled with warm water, and when the liquid is well absorbed, grooves 1 cm deep are made across the entire width of the box. The distance between the grooves is 4 cm. Seeds are placed in these grooves at intervals of 2-3 cm from each other, sprinkled with earth and covered with film. Until seedlings emerge, the boxes should be kept in a warm room.

Advice. Lighting does not play a special role during seed germination, so the boxes can be placed on a low bench, closer to the heating radiator, and not on the windowsill.

Seedling care

If the seeds are sown at the end of February, seedlings can be expected to appear at the beginning of March. When the first “loops” of sprouts begin to hatch, the film is removed, and the boxes remain indoors until most of the seeds have sprouted. After this, the containers should be moved to the balcony and lighting should be provided for the crops. Additional lighting is important because the daylight hours are not yet sufficient for tomatoes, and the sprouts will begin to stretch. Also, the air temperature on the balcony is maintained at least +20 C. When all the sprouts come out of the soil (usually tomatoes sprout together), the cotyledon leaves spread out well, and the first true leaves begin to be visible between them, the air temperature drops to +18 C.

Watering is not abundant - the soil is kept slightly moist, since at this time there is a high probability of plants becoming infected with blackleg. To prevent the soil from being washed away during watering, it is simply sprayed with a spray bottle. If water gets on the seedlings (and this will definitely happen), the balcony is ventilated, and the temperature rises slightly until the leaves dry out.

Advice. If the balcony is not heated, it is recommended to grow seedlings in. It is easier to create for plants favorable microclimate and organize lighting. You can make such a greenhouse with your own hands by building a rack and covering it with plastic film.

Seedling care

Hardening of seedlings is carried out regularly. On warm days, the windows on the balcony are opened for several hours, and closed at night. If the main stem, especially its lower part, has acquired blue tint, this indicates an increase in the plant’s immunity and adaptation to cold temperatures.

For irrigation, settled water is used drinking water room temperature. Watering, as before, is carried out moderately, without waterlogging the soil. It is also important to loosen the soil to maintain its aerating properties. Loosening is done carefully so as not to damage the roots located close to the surface. In order not to injure the plants, loosening can be replaced by mulching: a low layer of peat is poured between the plants, which will prevent the formation of a crust on the surface and will reduce the number of waterings.

Feeding seedlings

In the second week of growth, the seedlings are fed with complex fertilizers intended for vegetable crops. Fertilizing is carried out at the root with Kornevin or Heteroauxin, which stimulate the active growth of the root system. Before applying fertilizer, the soil is watered, and the next day the tomatoes are fed. The second and third feedings are carried out at intervals of 10 days, in total fertilizers are applied 3 times during the growing of seedlings. This intensive regime will strengthen the plants and help prepare them for transplanting and active fruiting.

Transplanting seedlings to a permanent place

In early April, when the seedlings reach a month of age, you can transplant them to a permanent place. By this time, from 4 to 6 true leaves are formed on the plants, they become cramped in total capacity, and the sprouts will stretch regardless of the degree of illumination and moderation in watering. Simultaneously with transplantation, tomato seedlings are picked - a mandatory procedure for tomatoes grown on the balcony. After picking, the root grows to the sides, becomes more massive and, naturally, better supplies the plant with useful elements.

Picking seedlings:

  • The soil in the boxes with seedlings is moistened abundantly so that the root extracted from it suffers as little as possible;
  • Taking the stem close to the ground, the plant is pulled out of the soil along with a small lump of earth on the roots;
  • Using scissors treated in an alcohol solution, 1/3 of the root is trimmed;
  • A hole is pierced in the prepared container with a stick, and the root is placed in it up to the cotyledon leaves. This planting depth is normal for tomatoes, since additional roots form on the stem over time;
  • The plant is watered, the soil near the stem is lightly pressed down with your fingers.

Low-growing tomatoes are planted two at a time at a distance of 5-10 cm from one another, and tall tomatoes are planted one at a time in a container. If seedlings are planted in large boxes, the plants are placed at intervals of 40 cm. Tomatoes are grown in any suitable containers.

What to plant tomatoes in:

  • Flower pots;
  • Cut plastic containers from under water;
  • Plastic buckets and deep basins;
  • Wooden boxes;
  • Balcony flower boxes.

Immediately after transplantation, the windows on the balcony are shaded, and the air temperature is maintained within 18-20 degrees - in such conditions, the plants will more easily endure a stressful situation and quickly adapt to the new place. When the tomato stems straighten and the leaves spread out (after about 2 days), the shading can be removed.

Caring for tomatoes on the balcony

For tomatoes grown on the balcony, conditions should be organized that are as close to natural as possible. The set of measures for caring for tomatoes includes providing plants with watering, loosening the soil, maintaining stable temperature and humidity, as well as pollination and fertilization.

Temperature

Tomatoes react sharply to cold weather, and as the air temperature drops, they stop growing. Taking this into account, the temperature on the balcony is maintained at least +20 C. Excessive air humidity also has a depressing effect on plants, and can also cause fungal diseases. Therefore, the balcony should be regularly ventilated, and if possible, leave the windows open as long as possible, closing them only at night. When a stable above-zero temperature at night is established, the windows can be left open around the clock.

Watering

Watering is carried out after standing tap water as the soil dries out. Because, unlike vegetable beds, the soil is not exposed to direct sunlight, watering tomatoes on the balcony is carried out less frequently than in open ground, and is regulated by the degree of soil moisture. Before the formation of the ovary and during the formation of fruits, the soil is maintained in a moderately moist state, and when the tomatoes begin to ripen, it is better not to over-moisten it. Slightly dried soil will promote faster ripening of fruits.

Interesting fact. Timely harvesting of reddened tomatoes helps other tomatoes ripen more quickly, so harvesting should be done regularly, regardless of whether the tomatoes are needed at that moment or not.

Pollination

Since tomatoes grown indoors do not have access to pollinating insects, windows should be opened regularly. To attract bees and other insects, you can place a couple of flowerpots on the balcony with plants that have a strong scent: nasturtium, petunia, lavender.

Important. Bloom ornamental plants and tomatoes must coincide in timing, otherwise this technique will not be effective.

Good results gives spraying of plants special means“Ovary”, stimulating the formation of the ovary. Irrigation with a stimulant is carried out when the seedlings become stronger after transplanting to a permanent place and during the budding period. Artificial pollination of tomatoes is also carried out. When the flowers bloom, they are shaken or rubbed inside soft brush. The procedure is carried out twice daily.

Loosening

Soil aeration is important for good development of the root system. The dense crust that forms on the surface of the earth after watering does not allow the soil to be saturated with oxygen. When the soil dries slightly, loosening is carried out. To do this, use a garden hand tool with a short handle and three teeth. Loosening is carried out superficially, at a distance of 5-10 cm from the stem, so as not to damage root system plants.

Advice. Mulching the soil with peat will help reduce the amount of loosening. A layer of mulch will protect the soil from crust formation and reduce the amount of liquid evaporating from the surface, so the frequency of watering will also be reduced.

Feeding

It is usually difficult to find organic fertilizers in urban areas, so mineral fertilizers are more often used to feed tomatoes grown on the balcony. For this purpose, Rastvorin and Kemira-universal products are used.

If it is possible to fertilize with organic matter, use mullein or bird droppings. 1 liter of organic fertilizer is diluted in 10 liters of water and infused for about 2 days. After this, the infusion is diluted at the rate of 1 liter per 10 liters of water and applied at the root.

Plants overfed with fertilizers can react in the opposite direction and begin to grow green mass, so when preparing solutions you should follow the proportions indicated on the packages and not exceed the recommended norms.

You should know. The organic infusion has a very unpleasant odor, which can annoy not only the owners of the balcony, but also the neighbors. In order not to disturb your own comfort and the residents of neighboring apartments, it is better to use store-bought fertilizers

Stepsoning

The shoots that form in the axils of the leaves exhaust the plant, its energy is spent on the formation of green mass, and the yield of the bushes decreases. Pinching, or removing excess shoots, is carried out regularly as soon as they reach 2-3 cm. The stepsons are simply broken out by hand, and the injured area is sprinkled with wood ash to avoid infection of the plants. Removal of excess shoots is carried out throughout the growing season. Also, during pinching, the lower leaves touching the ground break off. Thanks to this, air will not stagnate under the bushes and the likelihood of contracting infectious diseases will be reduced.

Tomato diseases

Tomatoes grown indoors are susceptible to infection with fungal diseases more often than in open ground. During seed treatment, the plants have already received a reserve of resistance, but still, it is worth taking preventive measures to avoid plant infection. The balcony should be regularly ventilated; if possible, the windows should be kept open around the clock, and closed only in damp weather with a drop in temperature.

In addition, the bushes are sprayed with Bordeaux mixture 2-3 times during the summer.

You can buy it at the store or prepare it yourself. In 1 l warm water dissolves 10 g copper sulfate, and then carefully introduce lime milk prepared from 100 ml of water and 20 g of fluffed lime. The prepared solution is enough to treat all plants once and leave for next treatment Bordeaux mixture is not recommended. Spraying of tomatoes is carried out 10 days after planting the seedlings, then at the beginning of flowering and at the beginning of fruiting. The product is non-toxic and does not harm health, therefore, if bluish traces of copper sulfate remain on the fruits, they can be washed with water and eaten without fear.

Growing tomatoes on an unglazed balcony

If there is no glazing on the balcony, tomatoes are grown in the same sequence as on a glazed one. The only difference is in the timing of sowing the seeds and the maintenance of the seedlings.

Sowing seeds for seedlings is carried out from the beginning to the end of March, depending on climatic conditions region. The further north the area is, the later the seeds should be sown. After germination, the boxes are placed on the windowsill and remain there until transplanted into permanent containers. At this time, lighting is organized fluorescent lamps to extend daylight hours. Seedlings are cared for in the same way as if they were grown on a balcony. When warm days arrive, the boxes are taken out to the balcony for hardening, first for 30 minutes, and then for several hours. This is the most difficult procedure physically, since the seedlings need to be taken out and brought back into the room every day.

In early - mid-May, seedlings are picked, and they remain indoors for two more days, after which they are taken out to the balcony. Pots of tomatoes are placed on tables, shelves, and racks. At this time, you should carefully monitor the weather forecast, and if there is a threat of night frosts, bring the plants into the room at night, or cover them with film or blankets. You can also spray the leaves with water - this will prevent the death of plants from hypothermia.

To grow tomatoes on the balcony, you need to work hard. But the end result, when beautiful, tasty tomatoes grown by yourself appear on the table, will make up for all the effort expended.

A short video with tips:

The question of how to grow tomatoes on the balcony is relevant for those city residents who do not have the opportunity to do this in their garden plot. It is not difficult to answer the following question: why do this? After all, there is a huge selection in the retail chain and on the market. The desire to grow tomatoes on a balcony or loggia is dictated by the fact that:

  • tomato plants are decorative at all stages of growth;
  • working with the earth perfectly relieves stress and calms the nerves;

Certainly, tall varieties type “de barao” are unlikely to be suitable for a balcony. After all, for a powerful root system you will need a large volume of soil, and for tall stems you will need to build a trellis.

Varieties and hybrids


The following varieties are suitable for growing tomatoes in pots and on loggias:

  • Potted red and orange;
  • Titmouse;
  • Pygmy;
  • Snigirek;
  • Pinocchio;
  • Cerrinaro F 1;
  • Baby cherry red F 1;
  • Balcony miracle;
  • Megabyte F1.

It is important to know: fruit seeds can be collected for planting next year. Hybrid seeds with the F 1 prefix should not be collected, they will not produce the desired plants.

Let's talk about some balcony tomatoes in more detail.

Potted red

A variety with limited growth of shoots that do not exceed 25 - 30 cm in height. Ideal for growing in pots. The flowers are collected in compact racemes. Fruit weight is 35 - 45 grams.

Shape: round, somewhat elongated, color ripe vegetable red-pink. To get a harvest in July, sowing is done in April.

From the moment of germination to the moment of ripening, about 90 days pass. In addition to the red-fruited variety, there is the “Pot” variety.

Pygmy

Low early ripening tomato. The height of the shoots is 30 centimeters. Ripening period is 80 - 87 days after germination.

The plant is standard and does not require the formation or removal of stepsons. Fruits weighing 25 grams. Round, red, very tasty. The variety is extremely decorative, summer period it becomes a decoration for patios and verandas.

Pinocchio

Medium ripening period for indoor conditions. Low (about 30 centimeters) shoots are completely covered with red round fruits.

The plant is standard and does not require shaping. The tomatoes are small, with an average weight of 15 grams. They are ideal for decorating dishes and jars of canned vegetables. Productivity up to 1.5 kg.

Baby cherry red F 1

Hybrid tomato, bred specifically for growing in a small amount of land.

Early ripening. The bushes are compact. Height -25 cm, circumference - 20 cm. The fruits are red-cherry, round, weighing 15 grams. Their high sugar content makes them popular with children.

Megabyte F 1

Bushes 40 centimeters high, large fruits weighing from 90 to 150 grams.

The shape is round, the fruits are fleshy and sweet. The bush does not require special shaping, but as the bush grows it needs support.

The success of growing in pots and containers depends on the choice of seeds, their proper preparation to sowing.

Seed preparation


To avoid becoming a victim of unscrupulous manufacturers and sellers of seeds, it is better to purchase them only in shopping centers with a good reputation.

This can be done not only in a specialized store, but also via the Internet. Before sowing, you need to read the information on the bag. If it states that the seeds have undergone pre-sowing preparation, then there is no need to soak them or perform any other actions with them.

note: the seeds of most balcony varieties are very small and there are usually 8 - 20 pieces in one bag. When working with them, care and attention are required.

Before sowing in the ground you need:

  • keep the bags at a temperature of + 20 + 25 for 2 weeks;
  • after that, put them near the battery and keep them there for another 2 weeks;
  • pour water into a shallow saucer;
  • place the seeds on a piece of cloth;
  • keep them for 24 hours;
  • After this, transfer the napkin to a solution of potassium permanganate for disinfection for 30 minutes.
  • drain the water and dry the seed before sowing.

The temperature in the room where the seeds undergo pre-sowing preparation should be + 22 + 25 degrees. After such preparation, you can begin sowing tomatoes.

Growing seedlings

The time for sowing seedlings is April. Do-it-yourselfers can make their own soil mixture. To do this you need to mix:

  • 1 part of forest land;
  • 1 part rotted humus;
  • 1 part sand.

Advice: all parts of the soil must be disinfected.

This can be done by placing them in the cold for 72 hours, and then bringing them into the heat for 72 hours. Then repeat the procedure. You can simply bake all the parts in the oven.

If it hasn’t been prepared since the fall necessary ingredients, then you can buy ready-made soil for nightshade crops.

Fill the containers with soil and moisten well the day before sowing. Make shallow grooves at a distance of 2 cm. Carefully, you can use toothpicks and place the seeds in them, leaving 2 cm gaps.

Lightly cover them with light soil, the layer of which should not be thicker than 0.3 - 0.5 mm. Spray the crops with water, cover with film or glass and place in warm room. At a temperature not lower than + 18 and not higher than + 23 degrees, the seeds will germinate in 5-7 days.

After this, the protective covering is removed and the boxes are kept at + 22 degrees in good, but diffused light. When the cotyledon leaves straighten, you can reduce the amount of watering. This stimulates root growth and development.

Good lighting is important at this stage. It is desirable that the light falls not only from the side, but also from above. This will save the seedlings from uneven stretching.

On the 7-8th day after the appearance of the bulk of the seedlings, you need to dilute 2.5 grams of calcium nitrate in 1 liter of water for feeding. As soon as 3-6 true leaves appear on the young shoots, you can begin to transplant them into permanent pots.

How to transplant seedlings

For varieties with shoot heights of up to 30–35 cm, a pot with a diameter of 20–25 cm and approximately the same depth is sufficient. If the shoots are longer, then a pot or flowerpot needs a larger diameter and height.

At the bottom of each pot you need to pour a layer drainage material 2-3 cm high. Small pebbles are suitable for this, broken brick. After this, the pot is filled with soil. There should be 2-3 cm left to the edges. On the eve of picking, the soil in the pots should be well watered. The seedlings also need to be watered.

Using a toothpick, carefully dig up the seedling from all sides and remove it from the ground, being careful not to shake the soil off the root. Make a hole in the ground of such a size that the tomato fits in it almost up to the cotyledon leaves.

Cover the hole with soil and lightly compact it. This must be done carefully so as not to break the delicate stem. For ten days, transplanted seedlings need only moderate watering after the soil has dried, diffused light and a temperature of + 18 + 20 degrees.

Care

10 days after transplantation, the plants can be fed for the first time. Fertilizing is carried out with a nitrogen-potassium mixture.

In this case, the amount of potassium should be twice as much as nitrogen. You can add 5 g of calcium nitrate per liter of water to the first feeding. After another 10 days, a second feeding is carried out, 5 g of magnesium sulfate is added to it.

Keep in mind: Fertilize tomatoes only after watering.

The following fertilizing should be done with the addition of 5 g of potassium sulfate and superphosphate. As the fruits grow and ripen, alternate mineral fertilizers with organic ones.

Two or three times you can add a little soil to the containers with tomatoes and rake it under the stems of the plants.

Prevention and treatment of diseases

Any disease is always easier to prevent than to treat. The use of soil free from pathogenic microorganisms and disinfected seeds is the main prevention of diseases of indoor tomatoes. You should never use soil in which potatoes, peppers or eggplants have previously grown.

Compliance with the humidity and fertilizing regime will increase the plants’ immunity to major diseases. If you spray the seedlings on the 20th day with the Zaslon preparation, diluted in a ratio of 3 measuring caps per liter of water, this will be an excellent prevention.

If the plant shows signs of late blight, you can spray it with a 10% solution of table salt. The drugs “Barrier” or “Barrier” will help against gray rot. In general, caring for balcony tomatoes is not difficult and can be done by a novice gardener.

For instructions on how to grow tomatoes on the balcony, see the following video:

There are probably few people who don’t like tomatoes. These delicious vegetables very nutritious and filling human body useful substances. And perhaps it’s no secret that home-grown vegetables are much tastier than store-bought ones.

But what if you don't have a garden where you can grow tomatoes? You can organize growing tomatoes on the balcony.

We invite you to learn how to grow balcony tomatoes. The article will give specific recommendations and discuss all the nuances and stages of growing tomatoes on the balcony.

Which variety of tomatoes to choose

There is little space on the balcony, so the variety of tomatoes should be chosen carefully. So, the variety should be low-growing with large and abundant fruits. The following tomato varieties are suitable for growing on the balcony:

  • Cherry.
  • Cascade Ed.
  • Mikron-NK.
  • Red Pearl.

Hybrid varieties of tomatoes that were bred by breeders taking into account the wishes of gardeners deserve special attention:

  1. F1 Balcony Red is an early ripening variety. The ripening period of tomatoes begins 3 months after the seedlings emerge. The fruit size is average. The tomato has a pleasant sugary taste. For good development of the bush there is no need to cut off the stepsons. The growth of the bush is up to 30 cm.
  2. Pinocchio is another tomato variety that has already appealed to many balcony gardeners. This variety is grown because it is not fussy, and also for the earlier ripening of tomatoes.
  3. Balconies Yelou – hybrid variety tomato. The bush reaches a height of up to 45 cm. Early ripening. The fruits have a bright lemon color. The variety is suitable for conservation.
  4. Balcony miracle - this hybrid variety is also early ripening, but also prolific. The height of the bush is 50 cm. Approximately 2 kg of fruit can be collected from one bush. Moreover, the average weight of each tomato is 65 g.

You can also grow tall varieties of tomatoes on the balcony. Varieties such as White filling And Bull's heart. The fruits of these tomato varieties are juicy and fleshy. To grow tall tomatoes you need to prepare large pots. They will need to be installed on the floor.

Preparing a balcony for growing tomatoes

Arranging a miniature vegetable garden on a balcony can only be organized if it faces southwest or southeast. The balcony, located on the north side, is not suitable for growing plants, since the sun shines in its direction only 3 hours a day. The south side is also not suitable, since there is too much sun on such a balcony, which also negatively affects the development of tomato bushes.

If the pot with the tomato bush is heavy and needs to be installed on the floor, then it is better to place it closer to the balcony wall or railing. It should be borne in mind that tomatoes on the balcony do not like sharp gusts of wind, because of which the growth of the bushes slows down. If you decide to plant hanging tomato varieties, then they should be grown in hanging pots. But so that caring for tomatoes does not bring unnecessary hassle, pots should not be hung very high. Tall tomato bushes can be secured to trellises made of plastic, rope and wood. In turn, it is better to fix the trellises on a free wall that is as protected from the wind as possible.

Along with tomatoes, you can plant herbs on the balcony. This composition looks very harmonious, and the herbs will repel pests from the tomato bushes. Thus, herbs such as mint, curly and regular parsley, lettuce, celery and oregano coexist well with tomatoes.

Preparing soil and seeds

To achieve maximum fruiting of tomatoes on the balcony, it is important to properly prepare the soil for sowing. If there is no time for self-training soil, you can purchase a special soil mixture consisting of turf and humus in equal parts. Also, to improve the looseness of the soil, peat or sawdust is added to it.

Important! Excellent fertilizers for tomatoes are saltpeter, wood ash, potassium sulfate and superphosphate.

It may seem to a novice gardener that growing tomatoes on the balcony is a thankless task. But, if all the initial stages are completed correctly, then the tomato bushes will need minimal care. After preparing the soil, it's time to start preparing the seeds for sowing to produce seedlings. This work begins at the end of February - beginning of March.

Start by soaking the tomato seeds. Place them on a cloth, cover with warm water and leave the seed warm until germination.

There are several ways to plant tomato seeds in the ground:

  1. Fill special cups with soil and pour boiling water over it; sowing can only be done after the soil has completely cooled. If you do not have the opportunity to purchase such cups, then you can grow tomatoes on the balcony in plastic bottles. To do this, you need to cut off the neck, cover it with soil, make holes and place the seeds in them. If you pre-germinate tomato seeds, then you will need to place 1 seed in a glass, and 2-3 for unsprouted ones. There is no need to make holes in the glass, since there is little soil in the glass and all the liquid will be absorbed by the plants. Cups with crops should be placed in a warm place and covered with cellophane. After the sprouts appear, 2–3 days should pass and the crops should be transferred to a cool place with artificial lighting. Watering is carried out as the soil dries.
  2. Before sowing, tomato seeds are treated with a solution of potassium permanganate. Then they need to be placed in a soaked cloth on a plate and wrapped in cellophane. The environment in which the seeds will germinate should be warm and humid. Then the germinated tomato seeds are placed in the soil, covered with glass and again in a warm place. After tomato sprouts appear from the ground, the containers need to be moved to the windowsill to provide the seedlings with enough light. Watering is carried out as the soil dries. In this case, it is important to add warm water to the tomato sprouts, preferably settled water.

Transplanting into containers

Usually a month is enough for development strong seedlings tomato. And then the period comes when it needs to be transplanted into spacious pots or containers. If you plant tomatoes in long containers, then the distance between plants should be 25 cm. Now let's look at how to grow tomatoes on the balcony step by step.

In order to ensure good drainage, expanded clay or broken tiles should be placed at the bottom of the container/pot. The soil can be enriched organic fertilizers. Then you need to fill the pot 1/3 with soil mixture and place the tomato seedling. Spread the roots to the sides and lightly press them into the soil. Then gradually pour soil into the pot, compacting it with your hands. Do not add soil to 1/3 of the top of the pot. Lightly compact the soil and generously water the tomato seedlings with warm water, do it slowly so that the moisture is absorbed evenly into the soil.

Important! Although only self-pollinating tomatoes can be grown on the balcony, you can lightly shake the flowers or run a brush over them to speed up the pollination process.

After transplanting the seedlings, they should not be touched during the first week. This way, you will give the tomato bushes the opportunity to take root.

Low-growing varieties of tomatoes can be planted 2 - 3 seedlings side by side. So, a lush and beautiful bush. All dry and apparently diseased leaves should be torn off to prevent the spread of disease. When the first fruits appear, the color must be removed from the top. This is done so that moisture and useful material fell into developing fruits.

After the fruits begin to turn pink, they need to be removed from the bush and placed in a box for further ripening. In this case, they will not be lost beneficial features fruits, and new fruits will form on the bushes, while the previous ones will not take juice from them.

Feeding and care features

In order for the bushes to develop well and color to form on them, it is important to carry out timely feeding plants. Start doing this in April. You can use mineral fertilizers for this.

If you decide to grow tall varieties on the balcony, then the size of the bushes will be correspondingly large, and so that they do not break under their own weight, you need to tie them up. If it has been a long spring and there is still no heat on the loggia, then you will have to bring pots with plants into the house at night, and take them outside again during the day.

To prevent late blight and other tomato diseases, you need to treat the bushes with a mixture of potassium permanganate and garlic. To do this, dilute 0.5 tbsp in 0.5 liters of water. l. crushed garlic and 0.5 g of potassium permanganate. Another option for disease prevention is to spray the bushes with a solution of phytosporin.

Top dressing mineral fertilizers and watering should be done every week. Starting from the second stage of tomato development, the bushes are actively forming, sending out lateral shoots. Leave 2-3 stems, and the remaining shoots, or as they are also called, stepsons, need to be torn off or trimmed.

After the clusters of fruits have formed, you need to cut off the lower leaves. If you do not trim the bushes, they will have a very large volume and, as a result, the inflorescences will not form.

Warning! Some gardeners carry out complete pruning of leaves. However, it is not advisable to do this, since complete pruning disrupts the synthesis of organic materials.

You need to cut off the stepsons very carefully so as not to damage the stem. Pruning or pinching is best done in the morning. Leave 4 bunches of ovaries on each stem and pinch the crown.

A few growing secrets

Balcony growing of seedlings and subsequently tomato bushes differs from garden growing. We invite you to familiarize yourself with a few more secrets:

  1. If your loggia is not glazed, then tomatoes should be planted no earlier than April, provided that the temperature during the day does not fall below 23ºC, and at night - 13ºC.
  2. To avoid the development of fungal diseases on closed balcony It is important to maintain a certain humidity level between 60-65%. To do this, you need to systematically ventilate the balcony.
  3. Plants should be watered only with warm water.
  4. To develop powerful and tall bushes, you need to regularly fertilize them with organic and nitrogen fertilizers. But don't overdo it. Otherwise, powerful bushes will remain practically barren. The optimal period between feedings is 10 days.
  5. To prevent the stems of the bush from breaking under the weight of the fruit, they must be tied to a support.
  6. In order for the bush to form faster, you need to cut off small roots. To do this, slightly pull the plant up, as if pulling it out of the soil.

So, as practice and photo examples given in this article show, growing tomatoes on a balcony is a feasible task for every amateur gardener. The process of growing tomatoes will bring you not only good harvest, but also positive emotions. Such a release after working day in a noisy city can help you protect yourself from psychological disorders.

We invite you to watch a video that shows step by step how to grow tomatoes on the balcony:

It will be unique step-by-step instruction, divided into 4 main stages. There are no trifles in work, every action has great importance and has an impact on the final result, so do not ignore any of the recommendations.

Step one - choosing quality seeds

If I say that from choice planting material Almost half of the success depends, then I’m unlikely to be mistaken. The fact is that specially bred varieties are suitable for balconies, which are adapted to the conditions of city apartments; they are distinguished by such characteristics as small plant size, shortened ripening times and unpretentiousness to external conditions.

I will tell you about the varieties that I used when growing, but this is only a small part of the possible options:

"Balcony Miracle"Perhaps the most famous and popular option for growing in an apartment. The fruits are round, bright red, ripen in about 85-90 days. The bushes do not require garter; one plant bears an average of about 2 kilograms of fruit. Tomatoes are suitable for both salads and pickling
"Angelica"One of the fastest ripening varieties - the fruits ripen within 80 days after germination, which allows you to get a harvest before an outbreak of late blight, which usually occurs in August. The plants are not tall, the fruits are medium-sized - from 40 to 70 grams, does not require staking
"Pearl"My favorite variety due to its unpretentiousness - the plants tolerate cold and heat, lack of moisture and nutrients in the soil. The fruits are slightly elongated and small in size, characteristic feature is that the content of mineral salts and sugars in them is twice as high as in other options
"Bonsai micro"This variety is distinguished by its decorative properties - the bushes grow only 12 cm high, they all have the same shape, up to 1 kg of tomatoes are harvested from a bush, they are small - they weigh about 15-20 grams. The advantage of this option is that it can be planted in small pots volume 2.5-3 liters

I do not rule out that there are many other excellent varieties; when choosing, you need to take into account the following factors: purpose (special options for window sills are best), size of the bushes, ripening period. Buy seeds only from trustworthy stores, otherwise you may end up with one and a half meter giants instead of stunted plants.

Balcony tomatoes of Western selection can also be considered; very often they even exceed our options in terms of yield, but they are more difficult to purchase, and the cost will be several times higher.

Step two - preparing everything you need

As I noted above, we will consider growing tomatoes on the balcony step by step, we have dealt with the first stage, but in addition to seeds you need to have a set of necessary items on hand, we will deal with them too:

  • The easiest way to grow seedlings is to use conventional plastic cups , if you wish, you can buy special boxes for seedlings, but if you want to save money, then the first option is perfect. There is no need to make any holes in the bottom, the plants grow well just like that;
  • Nowadays there is no need to prepare a soil mixture, just buy ready-made soil from the right amount . Remember that one adult plant should require approximately 5 liters of soil (for the Bonsai Micro variety, 3 liters is enough), based on this, the required volume is calculated;
  • For mature plants, pots or flower boxes are used, you can build containers yourself; this option is good because you can make structures to suit the parameters of your balcony.

Don’t forget to prepare a place for plants in advance; ideally, if they stand on a hill for the best results, you can build simple benches for this. Balconies facing south and southeast are best suited.

Step three - sowing seeds

Now let's figure out how to grow seedlings from seeds; the process can be done in two ways: without germination and with germination of seed material. Let's look at each of the options in more detail and start with planting without germination:

  • First of all, you need to soak the seed material in a solution of potassium permanganate, this is necessary, firstly, for disinfection, and secondly, in order to separate low-quality seeds. It's very easy to distinguish them: good seeds will sink to the bottom, and the empty ones will remain on top, they need to be drained after 15 minutes;
  • Next, you need to fill our cups with soil and pour warm water over it.. A hole is made in the middle with a depth of 1-1.5 cm, no more is needed, 2 seeds are placed in it, which are covered with earth, there is no need to compact anything, as this will complicate the germination of seeds;
  • If you sow seeds in a large container, then the distance between them should be at least 3 centimeters, and between the rows you need to make a gap of at least 6 centimeters;
  • The crops are covered with transparent polyethylene and placed in a warm place; shoots will appear in 5-7 days. You can transfer the containers to the windowsill, as the sprouts need light. Optimal temperature for seedlings – 20-23 degrees during the day and 16-18 degrees at night, try to maintain just this regime;
  • If you planted in cups and you grew 2 plants, then the weaker sprout must be carefully cut off from the soil; you cannot pull it out, as you can damage the roots of a neighboring tomato;
  • Watering is done approximately once a week, using water at room temperature., standing for at least 24 hours. You can additionally spray the plants with a regular sprayer;
  • You can start hardening the seedlings about 2 weeks after germination; to do this, first simply open the window, then you can take the containers out to the balcony and keep them there with the window open if the weather is warm and calm. There is no need to check what temperature the seedlings can withstand and take them out into the cold; such extreme actions can ruin the fruits of your labor.

The second planting option differs from the first in the way of preparing the seeds; I will only talk about the initial stage, since further actions will be the same as in the above option:

  • First of all, the seeds are soaked for 15-20 minutes in a solution of potassium permanganate, all floating elements are removed;

If your seeds have been processed (this is easy to see by their characteristic color), then there is no need to disinfect them.

  • Then you need to prepare a solution with a growth regulator; personally, I usually use Epin, but it can be any other similar option. The instructions will tell you how to make the composition; seeds are placed in it and left for about 10 hours, this will improve their germination and accelerate growth;
  • Soaked seeds should be placed on a damp cloth or gauze, covered and left in a warm place.. After three to four days, sprouts should appear; all seeds that have not begun to grow can be discarded;
  • Next, you need to make holes in the prepared containers and drop one seed in there.. To avoid damaging the sprouts, I usually use a toothpick; wet seeds cling well to it and can be carefully placed in the soil. Further actions are carried out according to the algorithm described above.

Above we looked at how to plant and how to care for seedlings, now we will figure out how fertilizing is done, since this is also an important part of agricultural technology. The easiest way is to use a ready-made complex fertilizer for tomatoes; it can be purchased at any specialty store. The work is done as follows:

  • The first feeding is done 12 days after the sprouts emerge;
  • The plants are treated the second time 8-9 days after the first application of fertilizers;
  • The third time is carried out approximately a week after the second and at least a week before transplanting the plants to a permanent place.

To prevent fungal diseases, you can treat the seedlings twice with a milk solution (50 g per 500 g of water).

Do not forget about the fact that plants are always drawn to the light, therefore, in order for your tomatoes to turn out even, you need to turn them with the other side to the window every 3-4 days.

Step four - transplanting seedlings and caring for plants

Now let’s figure out how to properly grow full-fledged tomatoes on the balcony; the process begins with transplanting seedlings:

  • As I noted above, it is best to use cups, since you can get a plant with a piece of soil and transplant it to a permanent place, this creates minimal stress for the plant during transplantation and ensures almost one hundred percent survival rate;
  • The pot size should be approximately 5-7 liters, for dwarf varieties 3 liters is enough. You can also use long boxes; tomatoes are planted in them at a distance of 30 cm from each other, so that as they grow they do not suffer from lack of space;
  • 2-3 cm of drainage material is poured onto the bottom of the containers; the easiest way is to use expanded clay, which is sold in bags and costs little. It will allow excess moisture to drain through the hole, which must be at the bottom of the pot or box;
  • Next, you need to pour the soil into the pot, after which it is watered with warm water. Before planting a plant in a pot, you need to make a hole the size of the seedling with soil, after which the plant is placed there. The soil is compacted and watered again, at which point the work can be considered successfully completed;
  • Now let's figure out how to grow a rich harvest at home, first of all you need to provide the plants with sunlight, they should be located on the south or east side, this is an ideal option;
  • Watering the plants is done as the top layer of soil dries; on hot days this is done every other day., in cooler weather less often. The soil should not be overdried, but overmoistening will not be beneficial either;
  • Once every 10-12 days, fertilizing is done with the same complex fertilizer.. Good results are achieved by foliar treatment - spraying with a solution boric acid(1 g per 10 liters of water), this prevents flowers from falling off and improves fruit set;
  • The question often arises whether it is necessary to plant stepsons; most varieties do not allow stepsons, so there is no need for this work. But if your stepsons are growing, then you need to break them off with your hands at a distance of half a centimeter from the base;
  • Another important question: is it necessary to pollinate tomatoes on the balcony? I only looked at self-pollinating varieties, so you don't need to do anything, but to improve plant set, I still recommend shaking the plants lightly in the morning;

Treat the plants with Ovary before pollinating them using the shaking method, fruit formation will noticeably improve

  • To speed up the formation of fruits and their ripening, the method of tearing the roots is used, for this you need to grab the base of the plant and slightly pull up. You shouldn’t be too zealous, you need to tear the small roots, and thereby improve the nutrition of the ovaries;
  • In order for tomatoes to ripen faster, it is necessary to remove already ripe fruits, this will help increase the flow of nutrients to green tomatoes.

Traditional technology involves harvesting in the summer, but many people ask whether it is possible to grow tomatoes in the winter. This is possible if you follow the technology discussed above.

It is best to take the Pinocchio variety, as it grows well in room conditions, this is especially important if it is cool on the balcony in winter and you have to keep the plants indoors. The basic materials are the same as in the case described above, but you need to add a lamp to the list daylight, winter daylight not very good, so you will have to use an artificial option.

The work is carried out as follows:

  • Let's figure out when to plant Pinocchio: if you need tomatoes for the New Year, then you need to plant them in early October. You can do this with both dry and sprouted seeds; the second option in this case is preferable due to faster germination;
  • The seeds are planted in cups and placed near the window in order to provide them quality lighting, at a height of 25 cm you need to fix a fluorescent lamp and turn it on in the morning and evening, this will allow the plants to develop more intensively;
  • In this case, there is no point in hardening the plants, because they will always be indoors; here it is much more important to ensure the required temperature for the plants;
  • After transplanting into pots, you need to again place a lamp over the plants, since tomatoes grow much slower without light;
  • Do tomatoes need to be pollinated? Everything here is the same as in the first case: shake the plants slightly during the flowering period and use preparations to improve fruit formation; they are especially relevant in winter.
  • When the fruits begin to ripen, do not wait until they are completely red; you can also pick brown tomatoes; they will ripen on the windowsill, but the rest of the tomatoes will receive more nutrients and they will ripen faster.

Conclusion

We figured out how to grow tomatoes on the balcony, and you can do this both in summer and winter. There is nothing complicated in the process, the main thing is that the desired temperature is maintained and the plants have enough light. The video in this article will help you understand the issue even better, and if you do not understand certain nuances, write in the comments under the review.