Ventilation in a private house - natural or forced? Natural ventilation in a private house: do it yourself according to instructions with photos Ventilation system in a 2-storey house

Not so long ago, when running a private residential construction future home owners, even if they considered ventilation issues, still pushed them into the background, without giving these problems due attention. To a certain extent, this approach was justified: the very design of the buildings, the material of their construction, the presence of stoves with chimney ducts, the installation of door blocks that were not airtight - all this contributed to the constant circulation of air in the rooms, which was sufficient to maintain a more or less acceptable microclimate.

However, the trend has now changed dramatically. New construction and Decoration Materials, are widely used modern windows and doors that provide almost complete sealing of openings, the requirements for thermal insulation of buildings have increased, that is, during construction they try to block as much as possible any paths of heat leakage. Conventional air infiltration through building structures is clearly insufficient, and therefore, even at the design stage, a system is immediately envisaged effective ventilation premises.

As living conditions change, home owners also have to take certain steps old building. And one of the most acceptable options, inexpensive and easy to implement on your own, is natural ventilation in a private home. This publication is devoted to this topic.

What functions should home ventilation perform?

Is ventilation really necessary to attach so much importance to it? Such a question can only arise from an amateur. The need for a constant air exchange system cannot be overestimated, both from the point of view of creating and maintaining the most comfortable microclimate for life and safe for the health of people, and from the point of view of ensuring long-term trouble-free operation of the entire building as a whole.

• For normal human life, oxygen is required in the air. During the breathing process, it is gradually replaced by carbon dioxide, and if there is no constant replenishment fresh air, then the atmosphere in a closed room becomes heavy, suffocating, causing rapid fatigue, lethargy, restless sleep, or even more serious reactions in the form of shortness of breath, dizziness, attacks, etc., especially in people suffering from chronic diseases respiratory system and blood circulation.

• Air stagnation is a mandatory increase in the concentration of pathogenic microorganisms and allergens contained in it in suspension.
• There is no escape from the fact that human life is constantly accompanied by smells. This is sweat and other quite normal body secretions, the aroma of which is not particularly pleasant, these are perfumes and cosmetics, these are products household chemicals and other sources. Let's add here some bad habits, in particular smoking, as well as odors from pets. If constant effective ventilation is not provided, very quickly the atmosphere in living rooms will become unsuitable for normal stay in them.

• Houses with “conveniences” on the street are practically a thing of the past. Comfortable living is associated with an equipped bathroom or at least a shower, a warm toilet or a shared toilet. must be organized in such a way that air, along with odors and steam from these rooms does not penetrate into residential area, and was immediately taken outside.

The kitchen always requires special attention. This is also related to elevated temperature in this room during the cooking process, and with combustion products, if used gas stove, and with a lot of odors, pleasant and not very pleasant, with greasy fumes and a lot of water vapor. All this must be immediately removed outside the house.

• The air exhaled by people and animals always contains a high concentration of water vapor. In addition, excess humidity in rooms is caused by a variety of Appliances– washing and dishwashers, irons, electric kettles, etc. Here you can add drying of washed clothes, carried out wet cleaning and other reasons. A high humidity, which has no way out due to the lack or insufficient ventilation - these are damp walls, which become a favorite “springboard” for the development of various microflora - fungus, mold, moss, this is the decoration of premises that quickly becomes poor, these are fogged, and in severe frosts - covered ice crust on the window. And the durability of waterlogged building structures from any material – decreases sharply.

• Unfortunately, not everything is going well with many materials that are widely used for finishing, insulation or for making furniture. Many of them are capable of releasing into the home atmosphere substances that are quite harmful to human health - formaldehyde, styrene and other toxic compounds. Ventilation helps to minimize the negative effect of such emissions.

If desired, this list can be continued. However, what has already been listed should be more than enough to understand the importance of well-equipped ventilation and imagine what it can become comfortable home in its absence.

When designing any buildings nowadays, special attention is paid to ventilation issues. If, for one reason or another, the owner got a house that is not equipped with such a system, he will have to deal with it immediately. And at first, it will be easiest to organize natural ventilation, since it usually does not require excessive costs and large-scale alterations inside the premises.

The principle of operation of natural ventilation. Its advantages and disadvantages.

Under what conditions is it possible to use natural ventilation?

Ventilation of premises can be organized according to various schemes, but all of them can be divided into two main groups.

1. First a large group, which, in turn, is divided into several varieties - this is forced ventilation, the air flows in which are created due to one or another mechanical effect provided by the operation of special fans. Such ventilation can be supply, exhaust, or created by combined scheme. Such schemes are very complex and usually require a professional approach, but they allow you to control the quality of the air entering the premises and carry out the necessary purification.

2. Second– this is the natural ventilation discussed in our article, which does not involve forced supply or extraction of air masses. All movement of flows is carried out exclusively due to natural forces that obey the laws of physics.

— Temperature difference — warm air always has a lower density and, therefore, mass, in comparison with the colder one, and therefore tends upward.

— Pressure drop: due to the height of the vertical ventilation ducts, a certain, although not so significant, pressure drop is created, which facilitates the movement of air.

- Exposure to wind.

• The operation of natural ventilation does not accept the installation of any highly efficient filtering devices (except for gratings or meshes that do not allow, for example, fallen leaves, large debris, insects, etc. to pass through). These devices will make normal movement difficult or even impossible. air flow from the street to the premises, which will lead to the inoperability of the entire system as a whole. Thus, limiting yourself to natural ventilation only makes sense if there is clean air in the construction area.

It is clear that creating natural ventilation in a house located near a busy highway, where the air is oversaturated with exhaust and dust, becomes an unsuccessful solution. For the same reasons, such a scheme is not used if the development site traditionally feels bad smell from nearby industrial enterprises, livestock complexes, treatment facilities and so on. Instead of improving the microclimate, the exact opposite effect will be achieved indoors.

A similar criterion for assessing the admissibility of natural ventilation can include the noise level (for example, a railway line or an airport is located not so far from the site). It should be remembered that such a ventilation scheme always reduces the overall level of sound insulation of the house.

• Comfortable living conditions suggest optimal combination several parameters - oxygen saturation of the air, its temperature and relative humidity. Practice shows that natural ventilation will maintain this balance only in the conditions of a so-called inertial house.

This concept implies that the building is constructed from materials capable of accumulating thermal energy– this includes brick, gas silicate, expanded clay concrete, ceramic blocks, cinder blocks, adobe walls. In this case, the house must have high-quality thermal insulation, made exclusively from the outside. Walls built of wood (logs or beams) or adobe have a certain inertia.

It is in such conditions, when walls are able to accumulate thermal potential and then release it to the flow of incoming air, that properly organized natural ventilation will work to improve the microclimate in the premises. The heated surfaces become a kind of recuperator, that is, they contribute to the rapid and high-quality heating of the incoming air.

Prices for ventilation systems

ventilation system

But in the so-called inertia-free houses the picture is completely different. Constantly penetrating free air flows from the outside lead to unreasonably large heat losses, cool the house, and there is no need to talk about ensuring a normal balance of temperature and humidity. Such buildings include buildings erected using frame technology, from sandwich panels, polystyrene concrete, vacuum blocks and a number of other modern building materials. In such conditions, the only correct solution is to use a well-thought-out forced ventilation system.

• Natural ventilation more suitable for buildings that are compact in plan, without long enfilades of rooms, outbuildings and extensions. Its creation becomes more complicated with increasing levels - the floors being built (this will be discussed below). It is practically not applicable “in its pure form” or is very ineffective for ventilating a residential attic, due to the characteristics of this room - a different scheme will have to be used here.

So, before you start creating a natural ventilation system, you should evaluate the listed evaluation criteria, and only then make a decision.

The principle of operation of the natural ventilation system of a country house

So, let's now look at what is the fundamental structure of natural ventilation in a private house and how it works.

For the functionality of such a scheme, a combination of supply and exhaust ducts ensuring free, unimpeded movement of air between them.

Fresh air (shown by wide blue arrows) enters the premises through slightly open windows or special intakes ventilation valves(item 1). There it heats up due to the action of heating devices, convection and heat transfer from structures accumulating thermal potential, displacing a more dense, saturated carbon dioxide“exhaust” air that moves (wide green arrows) to the rooms in which exhaust vents are installed. For its free movement along the route, either gaps are provided between the floor surface and the door leaf, or through windows in the doors themselves (item 2).

Exhaust vents (item 3) are usually provided in the dirtiest rooms that require maximum air exchange to remove odors, fumes or excess humidity. Here, the air flows of “exhaust” air (wide red arrows), picking up all these negative components, exit into the vents and move up the vertical ventilation ducts, due to the temperature and pressure differences already mentioned above.

These air ducts lead through the attic and roof and end at the heads of the ventilation pipes above the roof surface (item 4). The placement of these pipes on the roof is also subject to certain rules, which will be discussed below.

Thus, for efficient work natural ventilation of the house as a whole, each of the rooms must be equipped with either an inlet duct (valve) or an outlet vent. A number of rooms require the presence of both a valve and an vent.

Air duct prices

air ducts

When planning the location of supply valves and ventilation vents, the following rules are followed:

• A supply valve (or another way of supplying clean air) must be provided in any of the residential premises, be it a bedroom, living room, nursery, office, dining room, etc.
• Ventilation ducts with vents are provided:

- In kitchen areas. It should be remembered that the presence kitchen hood above the stove does not eliminate the need to place a ventilation vent.

— In bathrooms, toilets or combined bathrooms, home baths.

— In a dedicated room for home laundry.

- In closets, dryers, dressing rooms, if they go into the premises of the residential area. If they are separated by a door from the corridor or kitchen, then a supply valve is installed in them.

— In a home workshop, if work in it may be accompanied by the appearance of vapors, smoke, unpleasant odors (welding, soldering, painting, use of chemicals for various purposes - adhesives, mastics, solvents, technical fluids, etc.)

• A number of rooms require the placement of both a supply valve and a ventilation vent:

— Premises in which gas heating equipment is installed.

— A room in the living area, if there are more than two doors between it and the nearest ventilation duct.

— A living space combined with a kitchen, that is, for example, a kitchen-dining room.

— Home sports or gyms.

• A special approach is required for the premises on the second floor. The fact is that warm air from the first floor necessarily rises, and an additional load is placed on the ventilation system. There are two options here:

— If the second floor is separated from staircase constantly closed door, then the approach to the placement of supply valves and exhaust vents remains almost the same. True, with a caveat - in the case when there are no “dirty” rooms on the second floor (kitchen, bathroom, toilet, etc.), the vent can be located in common hall(corridor) where all the rooms open.

— In the case when the second floor is not blocked by doors from the first, in each of the rooms, regardless of its purpose, a fresh air intake channel and a ventilation vent are provided.

In addition, the presence supply window and ventilation vent is mandatory for basement (basement) rooms and for the space under wooden floors on the joists on the first floor. But basement ventilation is a separate topic for more careful consideration, and is “bracketed” in this publication.

Advantages and disadvantages of a natural ventilation system at home

So, what advantages systems can be calculated if a natural ventilation scheme for a country house is selected:

• Such a ventilation system requires minimal financial investments. Most of the work is quite accessible for doing it yourself. True, if the house did not previously have exhaust ventilation ducts, you will have to work hard on this. Supply valves should not cause any particular difficulties in installation.
• The system is reliable, primarily for the reason that its design does not involve complex mechanisms - by and large, there is simply nothing to fail here.

• Natural ventilation does not require complex maintenance. In principle, it comes down only to regular inspection of the condition of the ventilation ducts and, if necessary, cleaning them.
• Such a system is completely energy independent and does not require additional operating costs.
• The absence of mechanisms also means the absence of process noise inherent in other types of forced ventilation.

However, let’s not forget about the rather significant shortcomings natural ventilation:

• In most cases, supply channels do not have high-quality filters (they would interfere with natural circulation), which means that the incoming air carries with it dirt, dust, odors, and pollen. Small insects may enter.
• Supply valves are a “gap” in the overall sound insulation of a house.
• The system is very difficult to quantitatively regulate incoming air volumes.
• Natural ventilation is extremely dependent on the time of year and even on the current weather outside. IN winter period, when the temperature difference between inside and outside the house is large, ventilation works “to the fullest,” which often causes excessive energy consumption for heating needs. Reducing the flow of air from outside (for example, by covering the supply valves) immediately results in increased humidity - with all the ensuing consequences.

• In the summer heat, on the contrary, air circulation may slow down or even stop altogether. There is only one way out: to use a through ventilation scheme at this time, opening windows on both sides of the house - the air movement will be carried out due to the difference in pressure on the leeward and windward sides. But at the same time, it is likely that excess moisture and odors will flow from “dirty” rooms into the living area.

There are many ways to optimize the operation of natural circulation in one way or another - we’ll talk about this later.

Video: the principle of natural circulation and its seasonal characteristics

How is the performance of a home's natural ventilation system calculated?

It is not enough to correctly determine the location of the supply valves and exhaust ventilation vents. The ventilation system must have a certain performance to ensure optimal air exchange in all rooms of the house.

These requirements for air exchange volumes are established by current building codes and regulations for all residential and special premises of the building. They start to “dance” when performing calculations. An excerpt from these standards is given in the table below:

In this case, premises with permanent occupancy are understood to be those in which residents stay for more than two hours. It is clear that in an apartment, everything must be included here living rooms, with the possible exception of those that are not in use and remain closed. In this case, the air exchange rate for these residential premises is 0.2 of the volume per hour.

The general calculation is usually carried out in this sequence.

A. They begin by determining the required volume of air supply to ventilated rooms equipped with supply valves.

If you look at the tables carefully, you will notice that the regulatory documents propose several ways of calculation - from the total area of ​​residential premises, from the volume of rooms (air exchange rate), and sometimes from the number of people constantly present in the room. This means that it is worth trying to carry out calculations in several ways, and then select the maximum from the resulting results.

Let's explain with an example:

• Residential building with an area of ​​70 m², three family members live (more than 20 m² per person). In the bedroom with a total area of ​​16 square meters A permanent stay (more than 2 hours) of two people is assumed. If you calculate by sanitary standards(SNiP 41-01-2003 “Heating, ventilation and air conditioning”), then the required air supply is at least 30 m³/hour for everyone, that is, 60 m³/hour.

Thus, from the two obtained values, we select the maximum – 60 m³/hour.

• The same house, but now a children's room, with an area of ​​13 m³, where one person is constantly present. According to sanitary standards - 30 m³/hour, according to the volume of a single air exchange from the room area - 39 m³/hour. That is, the value taken is exactly 39 m³.
• Large living room (20 m²), where all family members gather and spend time together every day. Based on the norm of 30 m³ per person, this is 90 m³/hour. If you count from the area (volume) of the room - 60 m³/hour. The larger value is accepted.
• For a small office with an area of, for example, 11 m², the values ​​will be approximately equal - 30 and 33 m³/hour.
• A similar calculation is carried out for each of the rooms where supply air channels will be provided. Then the maximum values ​​are summed up - the result will show how much air needs to be released into the residential building. Let’s say that in our example, the total volume of required air exchange was 192 m³/hour.

To simplify the calculations of the required air supply, you can use the calculator proposed below, which contains the basic relationships in accordance with the current SNiP.

02.02.2012, 08:32

There are plenty of ways to heat the second floor with a stove. But I want to discuss one more thing.
The Internet is full of reviews where they say that they do not make any additional devices for heating the second floor at all. Warm air itself goes upstairs through the staircase. There are even reports that heat is lost too rapidly to the second floor, which leads to uneven heating: it’s too hot at the top and too cold at the bottom.

The idea is that, without making any special devices for heating the second floor, you can achieve optimal temperatures It's just a matter of adjusting the ventilation.

So far the design appears to be like this. Each room above should have a pair of air ducts: one from the ceiling of the first floor to the ceiling of the second, and the second from the floor of the second floor to the floor of the first, closer to the furnace firebox. The flow-regulating grid can be placed on any of the pipes - the effect should be the same.

The mechanism is as follows. Fresh dry street air is sucked in through the underground and the cracks between the stove and the floor, the surface of the wall heats this dry air, it rises to the ceiling of the first floor and from there it partially reaches the ceiling of the second floor. There it pushes the damp, polluted, cooled air down and through the second air duct directs it to the furnace firebox, from where it is discharged outside.

The question regarding the necessary and sufficient sizes of air ducts is still unclear to me.

02.02.2012, 08:54

By the way, electronics lovers can install automatic controls on the control grilles, which will monitor the equalization of temperature on the ground floor and in different rooms second. And if the second floor is not used, simply block it off, or work in defrost mode.

Grandfather Jedi

02.02.2012, 14:46

zttt, Let's draw?

02.02.2012, 15:06

02.02.2012, 15:25

won't it be hot?
2nd floor is hot, 1st floor is cold

02.02.2012, 17:19

I don’t understand how the air from the floor of the 2nd floor will get into the furnace vent without being disturbed by the air of the first floor.

Andrey Dachnik

02.02.2012, 17:59

Cold air is heavier and will sink, displacing warm air.

02.02.2012, 18:16

Good question. I even began to imagine the whole process a little better while I was thinking about the answer to it.
The pressure in each pipe is proportional to the density difference. The density difference is a function of temperature and humidity. If we neglect humidity, then the pipes begin to work when a temperature difference arises between the ceilings and/or floors. Those. such a system should equalize the temperatures in both rooms. If the furnace is running and hot air accumulates under the ceiling, it begins to rise, and the air from the floor begins to be pushed down. If the furnace is not working, but the air near the floor of the second floor has cooled more than that of the floor of the first floor, then the exchange begins again and the temperature equalizes.
If we take into account humidity, the picture will be somewhat more complicated. There will definitely be a little more on the second floor high humidity. Perhaps this can be overcome by adjusting the height of the pipes, but you need to think about it.

02.02.2012, 18:32

But this is still purely theoretical reasoning.

02.02.2012, 18:48

By the way, in such a scheme you don’t even need to install dampers: the temperature itself should equalize. You just need to ensure the airtightness of the rooms on the top floor. Otherwise, all the warm air will go there, and it will be cold below.
exactly!
TIGHT!
Without this it’s a bit difficult... by the way, there’s also an ambush - warm air under the ceiling on the first floor heats the floor of the second floor... or should we insulate it here too?
although if fans are installed in the air ducts, all problems are solved. but as I understand it, this is an electrically independent concept.

02.02.2012, 20:17

Let the heat flow through the floor. Everything will be settled. I would like to avoid electricity.

03.02.2012, 11:59

I thought some more, did some digital wandering, and this is what comes out.
Flows depend very little on humidity. Within a couple of degrees with a difference in humidity from 0 to 100%.
The air speed in the pipes is quite stable and in most cases ranges from 1 to 3 meters per second. According to snips, no more than 5 m/s. There is no need to install pipes that are too thick. My bedrooms are approximately 25 cubic meters. With a pipe of 150, the air should be completely exchanged in about half an hour.
Both pipes work together only when the room is completely enclosed. In this case, there will be flow if for at least one pipe the temperature at the bottom is higher than the temperature at the top.
If the door is opened, the planned process is interrupted and the heat simply begins to escape upward. If it is warmer at the top than at the bottom, the ventilation stops. This is why you should not make very thick air ducts. So that when open door the air moving upward was slower.

In practice, the problem of upward movement of heat exists with absolutely any type of heating. The good thing about this system is that the heat exchange stops after the door is closed. After this, the stove, which is very powerful and heat-intensive since it must heat two floors, begins to heat only ground floor. Top floor It gradually cools down on its own, because there are no heat sources there. Thus, gradually everything returns to normal and the temperatures level out.

In general, I really liked the system. If no one finds any obvious mistakes before the summer, then I’ll do just that. We just need to figure out how to isolate the two floors now. There was no door on the stairs.

Finally, a picture of the calculated air velocities in a vertical pipe at different temperatures above and below. It depends little on the diameter, in this case it is 150 mm.
401

03.02.2012, 12:09

Well, the problem will not be solved this way. Essentially, a solution to the problem of air recovery through an inconvenient place.
Place a fan in one pipe, you don’t need a second one at all, the air will rise to the second floor anyway. The pipe exits to the furnace and forward. Turn on synchronously with the ignition of the stove. Electricity consumption is minimal; probably ten years of work will exceed the cost of laying a second pipe.

03.02.2012, 12:39

1. If the doors and windows are closed, then air will not flow through one pipe, even with a fan, even without a fan. Don't believe me? Try forcing air into the bottle. You can blow as much as you like, but you’d rather burst yourself than inflate it with warmth.

2. What are you going to do when the power goes out? Or are you going to fence off the uninterruptible power supply system? Well, you see what unexpected expenses arose.

3. The heat itself goes up without any fans. I'm telling you: without fans, the flow rate is 1-3 meters per second. It's simply not possible anymore. And in general, people are complaining that without any radiators or fans, it’s hot up there and freezing cold downstairs. The task is not just to heat the second floor, but also to heat it so that it is comfortable, i.e. the temperature below and above was not much different.

4. In addition to heating, there is a ventilation problem. I don’t really understand how you will solve this with fans. The fans just stupidly mix good and bad air and it will be indiscriminately thrown out into the chimney. In total, it turns out that you will have a disgusting indoor climate with a fan, and the costs of ventilation (heating the exhaust air) will be quite considerable.

Grandfather Jedi

03.02.2012, 12:46

Electricity consumption is minimal; probably ten years of work will exceed the cost of laying a second pipe.
TB 10 (80 m3/h) - 20 W. So consider it.
True, there is no pressure in the air duct...
402

03.02.2012, 16:52

once again - in rattling rooms (or the entire 2nd floor), the system will work. if they are not airtight, it is hot on the second floor, cold on the first floor.
the cold at first can be overcome due to “radiant heating” from the stove. but the heat on the second - no way.

Grandfather Jedi

03.02.2012, 17:00

I’m glad that we got to this point before anyone invested their soul and money.

03.02.2012, 18:51

As I understand it, air must be supplied to the stove, which is already stale and spoiled, but where fresh air comes from is not discussed at all. The stove de facto burns even without pumping air.
The option of spontaneous mutual replacement of air between floors seems unrealistic, because there is always a way for warm air bypassing the pipe. Sealing floors belongs to the category of science fiction and nonsense. It’s also forbidden for children to run from floor to floor, because it’s not good...
Let’s say a pump, of course it won’t be able to pump 80 cubic meters per hour through a pipe, but the stove doesn’t need that much, because it’s not turbocharged, but regular.

The option of turning off the electricity while firing the stove is not critical, it will be heated anyway :). It seems more likely that it is not a power outage, but a lack of firewood.

03.02.2012, 19:03

the cold at first can be overcome due to “radiant heating” from the stove. but the heat on the second - no way.
This is exactly what I discussed in my answer above. Read it again carefully.
[Links are available to registered users only]
I'll just add...
1. Tightness is a relative concept. It is enough to keep the doors closed.
2. The system itself comes into balance after closing the doors, even if it became hot upstairs due to the forgetfulness of household members.
3. In radiator heating, the problem of a hot second floor will not go away. It is the nature of warm air to rise. So you still need to isolate the second floor from the first with any heating system.

I actually found a catch, but it does not apply to this system. I just recalculated the heat loss again and it turns out that at -15 (the most common temperature) I will have about 4.5 kW, and at -35 (sometimes it happens) already somewhere around 7.5-8 kW. A stove with such parameters will not fit into the provided space (1.5x1.5m).
For now I’m looking towards the 16kW KIKsP. But I don’t like it because its heat-accumulating properties will be somewhat worse due to the lower temperature in the register area.

03.02.2012, 19:09

In general, it’s some kind of salad, well, at least read what the topikaster is talking about.
This primarily applies to you. Namely:

And where fresh comes from was not discussed at all
The first post in the topic:

The mechanism is as follows. Fresh dry street air is sucked in through the underground and the cracks between the stove and the floor, the surface of the wall heats this dry air...

The pump is only needed when the stove is heating up; the rest of the time it doesn’t really do anything except stir the air.
The option of turning off the electricity while firing the stove is not critical, it will be heated anyway

03.02.2012, 23:33

This primarily applies to you. Namely:

The first post in the topic:

In general, you have learned to criticize, now it’s time to learn to understand what you criticize.

It will be drowning. Only without electricity, the temperature on your first floor will rise to 60 degrees and all residents will suffer heatstroke if they do not retreat in time.
Well, okay, I missed that the air was coming from the floor, although this option in itself looks gloomy.
But about 60 degrees, it’s rare nonsense. Well, there is no electricity, open the doors (or are they electric?) and the heat will go upstairs.
In general, okay, the topic is far-fetched and uninteresting.

Grandfather Jedi

04.02.2012, 03:51

Air from the underground into the firebox is a successful and very common option. All you need is a gate

04.02.2012, 14:24

Good afternoon everyone!
I’ll make a reservation right away that I’m not particularly good at all sorts of formulas (sem heat, conduction heat, etc.). This is what I am ALL ABOUT!!! Interested! During combustion (combustion), air (oxygen) is needed, which is taken from the room in which the stove (boiler) is located, and it enters this room (by suction) from the street! That is, passing through everything that is not dense (doors, windows) is heated room air(thereby cooling it!!!). The stove intake is sucked into the air and flies out into the chimney!!!
The question is this: If we make a two-flow system for supplying air to the boiler??? Thus, we will achieve a closed air flow system (street - boiler - streets) and not (street - apartment - boiler - street)!!! We will get that the apartment will become like a thermos to hold warm air in itself and not filter it through itself!
Is such a system feasible? Its pros and cons???
For greater clarity, I drew a small model of the operating principle of the system.
Please write what you think about this! Thanks in advance!!!416

04.02.2012, 20:11

This is a perpetual motion machine. In terms of energy, you will not save on this.
The temperature of the exhaust gases should be about 120 degrees, otherwise condensation will form in the pipes. All modern furnaces and boilers are quite capable of providing exactly this temperature without any distortions with counterflows.

Now about double-circuit. In any case, the furnace requires air to operate. It is heated in the oven, which wastes energy, is burned and thrown out into the street.
Now you are isolating the flows to the furnace and inside the house. The air inside the house also needs to be changed, since residents saturate it with carbon dioxide and water vapor. Those. you again need to suck in air from the street, heat it again and throw it out into the street again. As you can see, in this scheme the air is heated twice, whereas in the case of a stove only once.
In fact, double-circuit (without countercurrent) is used almost always when the boiler is located outside the heated room. Heating plants also burn fuel and air, which requires energy to heat. And in any room that is heated by a heating plant, ventilation operates, which again heats the air and again throws it out into the street.

Make the ventilation system in exactly the same way! In two streams! So, as far as I know, they do it in new energy-saving houses
This is called recovery. There is no point in stove heating, because the air is not exhausted into the street, but only smoke.

Nowadays there are a lot of people against the air from underground - like radon there is a hell of a lot, and therefore it is better to isolate the house from the underground if possible.
In fact, it is customary to ventilate the underground. And if you are afraid of radon, then the underground should not be made of earth, but at least the floor should be concreted. In any case, radon is a much less evil than a fan whirring in the room around the clock :)

Equipped attic space– the attic has become widespread relatively recently. Just a few decades ago, owners of private houses did not think about the functionality of this special place. Now everything is different - a useful habitable area will not hurt anyone. The main thing is to create proper air exchange on it. Attic ventilation can not only reduce energy losses, but also extend the life of the roof.

Functions of attic ventilation

During particularly hot periods, the ventilation system eliminates stuffiness, but in winter it effectively prevents cold and moisture from entering the room. That is why important point is the correct installation of the ventilation system with your own hands, because:

• the system eliminates moisture and prevents the formation of dampness in insulation material– it is thanks to ventilation that the heat insulator maintains its functionality for many years, preventing the penetration of heat and cold;
• with properly created ventilation, the formation of fungus and mold is minimized, thereby eliminating the possibility of premature destruction of wooden roof elements;
• in extreme heat, it prevents hot air from entering the house;
• prevents the accumulation of moisture, thereby preventing corrosion that negatively affects metal tiles;
• eliminates the formation of icicles under the eaves in severe frosts;
• saves energy resources, thereby reducing the costs required to heat a residential attic in winter.

Natural ventilation in the attic

The natural ventilation system directly depends on the correct installation insulating materials. A prerequisite for laying insulation is the presence of ventilation spaces between the layers of the material used and under the roof surface. Natural ventilation is based on the creation of natural draft, thanks to which there is a constant flow of air masses. The total area of ​​the ventilation ducts should be 0.2% of the total area of ​​the attic. The most simple option installation is the output of the channels through the gables. This technology can be applied to non-stone roofing elements.

The size of the gap for free air exchange depends on roofing material which is used for the roof:

• when using metal tiles, tiles, metal profiles, the gap should be more than 25 mm;
• when used soft materials and flat products, the space for air flow must be more than 50 mm;
• when installing waterproofing and insulation, the space between them should be from 20 to 30 mm.

Important! To create high-quality natural ventilation above attic room it is necessary to create a hermetically sealed separation of the ventilation cavities, thanks to which natural ventilation attic floor will be carried out evenly, without the formation of “dead” zones.

Installation of natural ventilation

A natural ventilation system is created during roof installation. To implement air exchange, you will need to install special elements responsible for air exchange under the roof. For air flow, soffits are used, which are installed around the perimeter of the building. The perforated surface allows air to enter the attic. To remove exhaust air, point or continuous aerators are used, which are installed on the slope of the roof.

Special aerators are mounted on the ridge. It is thanks to ridge aerators that the efficiency of all natural ventilation increases, because the area of ​​the outlet surfaces of the elements is much larger than that of conventional ones. The number of aerators is calculated individually and depends on the total roof area. For 100 m2 of area to be ventilated, 2 aerators are installed.

Important! Natural ventilation functions flawlessly only in the cold season, since air exchange requires a difference in temperature outside and inside the room. That is why ventilation of the attic roof requires the installation of a forced air exchange system.

Ventilation of a residential attic using dormer windows

Installation of a dormer window is carried out in accordance with SNiP II-26, SNiP 21-01:

• installation of dormer windows is possible with a roof slope of more than 35 degrees;
• the minimum size of the doors is 0.6x0.8 m;
• The permissible size of dormer windows is 1.2x0.8 m.

The shapes of dormer windows in a private house can be different and depend on the style of the building. Dormer windows are installed using frames during roof construction, forming an integral structure. Ventilation using dormer windows improves the aesthetics of the roof and its functionality.

For a pitched roof ideal option are windows with one inclined plane. Installation diagram: 2 beams are located at the distance required by SNiP and are fixed using vertical racks, connected at the top by a jumper. External sides are sheathed facing material, a decorative grille is installed on the façade side.

Single ventilated gap system

When arranging the ventilation system of a pitched roof, it is worth considering that the size of the ventilation duct directly depends on the length of the slopes and the angle of the roof.

According to SNiP II-26-76:

• the gap height is no more than 5 cm, an increase in which can lead to the formation of turbulence, which will significantly reduce air exchange;
• when the coating length is more than 10 m, forced ventilation is required;
• The openings of the ventilation system must be reliably protected from debris.

Forced attic ventilation

When installing forced air exchange, a fan is installed in the ventilation duct. It is especially necessary to install the device in the presence of short ventilation ducts that are not capable of providing high-quality draft. When installing a fan in a country house, the air flow is installed in the same way as when natural system. Installed roof fan from the outside at a distance of more than 8 m from the inlet openings. It is also very important that the fan is not installed close to windows, as exhaust air may be sucked into them.

The performance of a roof-mounted fan depends on:

• impeller dimensions: larger diameter – higher productivity;
• the angle of bending of the blades: the larger it is, the large quantity air will be recycled;
• electric motor power.

The best way to improve performance is to install multiple fans. Using a powerful cooler is impractical.

Important! To prevent the formation of condensation, the fan must be insulated using special materials, for example, using mineral wool.

The attic ventilation system is very important element creating comfortable conditions in the home. It must be installed in accordance with regulatory requirements construction industry. As a rule, the ventilation system is developed at the design stage of the building itself and installed at the time the roof is erected.

A large country house is the dream of many families. But in order for the building to be comfortable for living, it is necessary to provide for the presence of all necessary communications in it at the design stage. One of them is ventilation.

An established air exchange system in the house will provide:

• supply of oxygen to the premises;
• protecting rooms from dampness, mold and mildew;
• comfortable living conditions and optimal sanitary conditions for human life.

Which rooms need ventilation?

For normal life, a person needs pure oxygen. Therefore, its supply should be ensured in living rooms, such as the bedroom, living room, and children's room. Service areas in the house (bathroom, etc.) also need constant circulation. Here there is often high humidity and accumulation of odors that need to be removed outside. Ventilation of these premises will reduce the formation of dust, dirt, excessive stuffiness, condensation, the spread of harmful microorganisms, and mold.

Ventilation system, methods of organization

There are two main types of air exchange arrangement in residential buildings:

• natural (natural);
• mechanical (forced).

Features of the arrangement and principle of operation of natural ventilation of a private house

Natural air exchange in residential buildings is carried out based on the difference in pressure inside and outside the house, as well as the effect of wind on the building. How it works?

The temperature inside the house is higher than outside, so the oxygen there has a lighter structure. Thanks to this, he climbs the shafts and goes out into the street. A vacuum arises in the room, which draws fresh air from the street through the openings in the building envelope. The incoming masses have a heavy structure, so they are located at the bottom of the premises. Under their influence, light warm air is forced out of the rooms.

The wind accelerates the circulation of air masses. As the difference in temperature inside and outside the cottage and wind speed increases, the supply of freshness to the house increases. Previously, the places where it entered were leaks in windows, doors, and porous walls. But modern systems insulation, as well as plastic windows are designed, so there are no gaps in them for air supply. In this case, the inflow is carried out through special valves mounted in the windows or walls of the building.

Waste oxygen enters the openings of the vertical ventilation ducts of the house, located in the kitchen and bathroom, and is discharged outside through them. Replenishment of fresh water occurs through ventilation (opening windows, doors, transoms).

Advantages and disadvantages of the system

Natural air exchange in the house has the following advantages:

• efficiency. The movement of air flows is carried out without the use of additional equipment;
• no accidents. The ventilation design is extremely simple, does not depend on the power supply, and does not require regular maintenance;
• quiet operation;
• Possibility of combination with filtration and air conditioning systems.

The main disadvantage of natural ventilation is poor air exchange, which leads to the formation of condensation, the accumulation of unpleasant odors, and the occurrence of mold and mildew. This threatens not only the gradual destruction of the house, but also the health of the people living in it.

The natural ventilation system does not allow you to regulate the volume of air removed and supplied to the premises. The recycled stream either does not have time to be discharged outside, or is removed too quickly, causing heat loss in the house. In the summer, when the temperature inside and outside the house is almost the same, the draft disappears and the air movement in the system stops. Therefore, natural circulation in modern construction houses are practically not used. It is used in combination with a mechanical system.

Forced ventilation - features, types

It's artificial organized system, the movement of oxygen in which is carried out due to the involvement of injection devices (fans, pumps, compressors). It is used in private buildings where natural ventilation is not provided or does not work. Advantages of mechanical organization:

• works autonomously, regardless of weather conditions (pressure, temperature, wind);
• allows you to prepare the air supplied to the premises to a comfortable state (heat/cool, humidify/dry, purify).

Flaws forced scheme for mansions:

• significant costs for setting up the system, purchasing equipment, paying for electricity;
• the need for regular maintenance.

Mechanical air exchange in a private house can be arranged in several ways. There are different types of ventilation:

• supply - provides forced supply from the outside;
• exhaust - removes the processed flow from the premises mechanically;
• supply and exhaust - inflow and supply in the house are organized artificially.

Supply ventilation in a private house

This system is designed to replace exhaust air in the house with fresh air. It consists of:

• air intake;
• heating and cooling devices;
• cleaning filters;
• devices supplying air to rooms;
• sound-absorbing devices.

Through air valve clean air enters the system, undergoes certain processing, is filtered, and, using a fan, is distributed throughout the rooms in the house. Getting into the rooms, it displaces the waste stream. The supplied air can be additionally cooled or heated.

Supply ventilation systems are:

• duct - air circulation is carried out through pipes;
• channelless - the flow is supplied to the room through holes in the walls and windows.

According to the device method, they are distinguished:

• stacked ventilation systems consisting of separate units connected by one air duct;
• monoblock - all devices are collected in one compact housing.

Supply installation schemes have the following advantages:

• the ability to regulate the temperature and volume of oxygen supplied;
• compact dimensions;
• functionality (they have additional devices for cleaning, heating, cooling the supplied air);
• ease of installation and maintenance.

The disadvantages of this type of ventilation can be identified:

• noisiness. During operation, the system units produce sounds, so it is necessary to provide a noise suppressor and install the equipment away from the living rooms in the house;
• the need for space to install all its elements (when installing typesetting system required);
• need for regular maintenance.

Exhaust ventilation in a private house

When installing this system, clean air enters the rooms through windows, doors, and special valves, and exhaust air is removed using exhaust fans. These devices are installed in the most problem areas at home (in the kitchen, bathroom), they come in wall and duct types.

Pros of this installation:

• control of the volume of exhaust air;
• independence from environmental conditions;
• ease of installation.

Among the disadvantages of the system:

• inability to control the amount of air supplied to the house;
• costs for the purchase of equipment, electricity;
• the need for regular maintenance.

Ventilation using supply and exhaust units

How to make ventilation in a private house With metal-plastic windows, decorated with modern thermal insulation materials? For this you need quality system, allowing you to supply fresh air and remove exhaust air automatically. Air handling units will solve this problem.

They provide for the organization of two parallel flows:

• for exhaust air removal;
• for serving fresh.

These installations allow you to regulate the volume of output and supply flows, allowing you to maintain an optimal level of humidity in the premises of the house. Main elements of the supply and exhaust system:

• air ducts - intended for supplying and removing air masses. They form two parallel lines consisting of pipes and shaped products(tees, turning elements). Air ducts differ in shape (round, rectangular), cross-sectional area, rigidity (made of aluminum foil, galvanized sheet, plastic);
• fan - provides the pressure in the ventilation system necessary for supplying and removing air. It can be installed on the roof of the building, directly in the air duct, or on a special support;
• air intake grille - through them, air from the street enters the supply channel. Also, these elements protect the system from foreign objects, rodents, birds, precipitation;
• air valve - prevents air from entering the system when it is off. It can operate on an electric drive, in automatic mode, and can also be equipped with electric heating that prevents freezing of the sashes;
• filters - protect ventilated rooms and the system itself from insects, dust, and other small particles. They require regular cleaning (recommended once a month);
• heater - heats the air supplied to the premises during the cold season. This device can be water (suitable for large cottages) and electric (used in small houses);
• noise mufflers - prevent sounds from operating devices from spreading through the pipe system. They are tubular, plate, chamber, cellular. Once air enters them, it passes through special barriers (perforated channels, tubes or plates), as a result of which its intensity decreases. Installing a silencer is not always necessary. Sometimes, to reduce the intensity of sounds in the system, it is enough to reduce the speed of the installation and ensure sound insulation of the fans;
• air intakes and distributors. The first serve to enter the flow into the system, the second - to distribute it evenly throughout the room. These elements are presented in the form of grilles and diffusers of round and rectangular shapes. They are mounted on the walls or ceiling of the room;
• control system. It can be mechanical (represented by a switch) or automatic (operation is regulated by a remote control). Its main elements are thermo- and hydrostats, pressure gauges;
• security system - represented by a set of additional devices that protect ventilation elements from overheating and power surges.

Improved model supply and exhaust ventilation is a recovery type system. It ensures efficient circulation in the house without loss of heat. This ventilation system is equipped with a recuperator, which allows reducing the cost of heating air coming from the street. The influent masses are heated by the heat of recycled streams removed from the house. This is the most effective and energy-efficient way to organize air exchange in residential buildings, although it is the most expensive.

Gas ventilation in a private house

Availability in the house gas appliances presents increased requirements to arrangement of circulation in premises. Impaired traction can cause poisoning from combustion products.

For normal operation gas installations oxygen is needed. If there is not enough of it, the air in the room is discharged. As a result, reverse draft occurs, and instead of the chimney, combustion products enter the surrounding space. They can cause malaise, severe headaches, loss of consciousness in a person, and even complete respiratory arrest.

Requirements for ventilation of a gas boiler room

Air exchange in a room with a heating device operating at natural gas, must be organized according to the following technical requirements:

• there are no more than two gas units per chimney;
• combustion products must enter the chimney from different levels (from a distance of more than 50 cm). With a single-level supply, a cut of the same height is installed in the channel;
• to prevent soot from leaking and carbon monoxide into the premises of the house, the boiler ventilation system should be sealed. Processing of joints and seams is carried out with material resistant to high temperatures;
• all elements of the exchange system must be thermally insulated to prevent fire.

Ventilation of the boiler room is constructed on the basis of the following calculation: air outflow = air exchange x 3.

Air supply = outflow + volume of oxygen required for the combustion process.

Methods for ventilating a gas boiler room

Air exchange in the room where it is located gas equipment, can be organized using:

• natural and mechanical ventilation traction-based. Natural circulation is the result of a pressure difference inside the house and outside. During mechanical ventilation, draft is generated by a fan;
• supply, exhaust, or combined system ventilation organized according to purpose. Air forced into the room puts pressure on the exhaust flow, pushing it out. Also, oxygen can be supplied to the boiler room naturally and removed mechanically. A combined system ( supply and exhaust system), operating efficiently in any weather, since supply and discharge are carried out mechanically;
• channelless or channel (depending on the design of the cottage). In the first case, the boiler room is connected through holes to another room, from where the waste stream is discharged into the air duct. In the second case, it is laid a complex system pipes that provide exchange in all rooms of the house.

Advice: to improve natural ventilation of a gas boiler room, it is better to additionally install exhaust fan, which will ensure the movement of air masses in the absence of draft.

Heating devices closed type, operating on natural gas, are equipped with a coaxial (double) ventilation duct. According to him inner pipe combustion products are removed, and fresh air is supplied to the burner through the external one.

If a gas boiler with an open combustion chamber is installed in the house, you should:

• install a pipe to remove carbon monoxide to the street;
• arrange a general air exchange system in the room;
• arrange the supply of oxygen to the boiler.

Note: oxygen can enter the room from the street through cracks and gaps in windows and doors. If the room is sealed hermetically, you will need to organize a forced air supply.

Proper ventilation in a private home

Organization of oxygen exchange will provide favorable microclimate in the house, the health of its inhabitants and the safety of the structure itself. How to arrange it correctly?

Norms and rules for home ventilation

To create a cottage in residential and office premises optimal conditions for human life, it is necessary that 60 m 3 of oxygen (minimum 20 m 3) enter each of them in 1 hour. Comfortable humidity air is 50%, and its exchange rate is 0.5 m/s.

This can be achieved through proper system design. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the air exchange rate for rooms for different purposes. For a bathroom this figure is 50 m3, a common bathroom - 25 m3, a kitchen - 90 m3. Not only office rooms, but also living rooms and utility rooms should be ventilated. To form a calculated hood, it is necessary to sum up the air exchange rates of each compartment of the house. In this case, it is desirable that actual ventilation exceeds the minimum standards.

Designing an air exchange system in a house

Development of a home ventilation project includes:

• selection of equipment;
• drawing up a communications wiring diagram taking into account architectural, construction, sanitary, and economic criteria.

The purpose of this work is to develop a system that will cope with the supply and exhaust of air, within the estimated volume calculated for the house. The design must not only ensure uninterrupted ventilation of the premises, but also free access to all structural elements (assemblies, chambers). This is necessary for quick fix problems and regular maintenance.

For circulation to work well, it is important to carefully select all equipment. It should last as long as possible. The devices used should not spoil the architecture of the house, so it is better to install them in a hidden way.

When designing cottage ventilation, it is important that the system complies with sanitary and epidemiological standards. It must not only cope with the supply/removal of air masses, but also operate as silently as possible. Don't forget about the efficiency of the system. But the desire to reduce installation costs should not affect the quality of the installation. The main design task is to develop optimal option ventilation of the house, taking into account all the above criteria.

The preparation of a project by a contractor begins with the formation of technical specifications. It contains all the criteria by which the ventilation system should be laid, as well as the customer’s wishes.

Calculation of ventilation in a private house

The operation of the system depends on whether the volume of air supplied and exhausted corresponds to the conditions of the house. This can be calculated using special formulas. The basis is the house plan, which indicates the purpose and area of ​​each room.

First, the air exchange rate is calculated - an indicator that determines how many times in 1 hour the air in the room is completely changed. For most residential premises it can be single, for kitchens, bathrooms, boiler rooms - 2-3 times. It is also necessary to take into account the people living in the house.

The air exchange rate is calculated using the formula: L(performance air handling unit, m3/h) = n(multiplicity rate for a specific room) *V(room volume).

Calculation of air exchange, taking into account the number of people living in the house, is carried out according to the formula: L = N(number of residents) * L(air intended for one person is the norm). By doing physical activity one individual needs air renewal - 30 m 3 / h, in a calm state - 20 m 3 / h.

Please note: having calculated the air exchange rate by the frequency and the number of residents, they are guided by the larger of these values.

Equipment selection

Criteria by which the main system settings are selected:

• power, performance;
• operating pressure;
• noise level emitted.

The speed of movement along the highways directly depends on their cross-section, as well as the power of the fan. But you should also take into account that the air ducts provide a certain resistance, which reduces the performance of the air handling unit.

Note: the productivity of the cottage ventilation system should be in the range of 1000-3000 m 3 /h.

At the stage of developing a feasibility study, the type, quantity and power of system elements are determined, its preliminary cost is compiled, and optimization adjustments are made. After this, a working design is drawn up, based on high-precision calculations of air exchange and heat release of a particular house. The devices and air distributors in it are selected according to.

Ventilation diagram for a private house

The air distribution network consists of pipes, fittings (rotating elements, splitters, adapters), distribution devices (diffusers, grilles). Based on this, you can determine:

• fan operating pressure - it depends on technical parameters unit, type and diameter of air ducts, number of rotating and connecting elements, air distributors used. The longer the line and the more different connectors, turns, and adapters there are on it, the greater the pressure the fan should create;
• the speed of movement of air masses depends on the diameter of the highways. For residential buildings this is 2.5-4 m/s;
• noise level - depends on the cross-section of the highways and the speed of air movement along them. Quiet operation ventilation systems will be provided by pipes large diameter. If it is not possible to install them, use lines with a cross-section of 160-250 mm, equipped with distribution grids 20x20, or 20x30 cm.

According to the interstate standard (GOST 21.602-2003), the diagram must show all elements of the ventilation system. They are designated by certain symbols and signed.

To make it comfortable and safe for a person, it is necessary to organize its ventilation. This will not only provide a favorable microclimate, but will also extend the operational life of the structure itself. There are several types of indoor air exchange arrangements. The choice of a specific system depends on the area design features home, number of people living in it, budget. For it to work effectively, it is better to entrust its planning and installation to professionals with experience in this field.