Ceiling insulation: basic principles. Insulating the ceiling in an apartment will save you from heat and cold. How to insulate the ceiling in an apartment on the top floor

If the thermal insulation of a private home is poor, it is primarily the budget and health of the family that suffer. It also happens that home insulation work is carried out independently and unprofessionally. In this case, the property owner often loses money twice as much. Materials are wasted and do not perform their function properly.

Today you can insulate a ceiling very efficiently, cheaply and different materials. The main requirement for them is environmental friendliness and good heat transfer performance. Insulation materials should allow the house to “breathe” and protect it from the loss of precious heat in the harsh Russian winters. However, the average person, as practice shows, pays more attention to the pricing policy of manufacturers.

If you understand this area properly, you can find any material at an affordable price and with good heat saving properties.

Peculiarities

If you understand the issue in detail, you can insulate own ceiling in an apartment and without purchasing special equipment, which is not cheap at all. The main thing is to know how to do everything correctly. The owner will always have the basic tools for this in a private home.

Ceiling insulation options top floor apartment building also many. All ceiling insulation work is carried out in the attic, so there simply cannot be any debris in the rooms. It is very convenient and does not distract from work.

Types and materials

One of the insulation options is a technology using extruded polystyrene foam, isospan or polystyrene foam. This option is very popular. Styrofoam reduces the cost of budget expenditures. The use of extruded materials provides a guarantee long service and good insulation. Polystyrene foam is easy to work with, it is light and convenient. Most often, a house is also insulated with penoplex, penofol or expanded polystyrene.

Materials you need to purchase:

• Styrofoam;
• glassine or vapor barrier membrane;
• polyurethane foam.

Now openoplast. Foam sheets 100 mm thick are best suited for ceiling insulation. As for density, 15 kg per cubic meter is enough. If there is such a possibility, then such foam can even be laid in two layers. But it should be remembered that in this case, each joining seam should not coincide (the principle of brick laying is used) in order to prevent cold air from penetrating. All cracks and joints are also “sewn up” with foam plastic.

It is simply impossible to “fit” foam plastic perfectly.

To seal the cracks, special mounting foam is used. For its installation, it is recommended not to save money; it is better to buy a professional gun. It will allow you to place foam even in the narrowest crevices, and it is also much more convenient to use. As for the vapor barrier, many roofers do not insist on its use. Wood does not need additional insulation. But even if you are going to save it, then use membrane materials. Film in in this case use is strictly prohibited in order to protect the wood from rotting and the spread of fungus. It is very difficult to fight him.

The sequence of work on ceiling insulation can be summarized in the following algorithm:

1. lay foam plastic;
2. prepare the surface;
3. lay heat-insulating material;
4. we place a vapor barrier;
5. lay foam plastic;
6. fill all joints with polyurethane foam.

The entire technological workflow occurs according to the following principle:

• All working surface must be cleared of all kinds of debris and extra items. The space between the beams should not be wet. It must first be dried well (you can use powerful fan heaters).
• After cleaning, you should prepare foam sheets. Cut them so that their size is approximately 10 mm larger than the size of the element in which they will be mounted. This way the foam will fit tightly to all structures. For pruning, experts advise buying a special hacksaw. It will allow you to cut it faster and better.
• The next stage is laying a vapor barrier. It must be mounted with an overlap on a vertical surface. The vapor barrier is fixed using a construction stapler.

• Measure the frame of the structure accurately (it’s better to double-check than to spoil expensive material). The foam must be laid very tightly. If you decide to lay it in two layers, then the top sheet of foam should be placed offset (approximately half a sheet) so that there are no gaps. During installation, you should remember that foam plastic is a rather fragile material and can be accidentally broken. On at this stage do not rush and be extremely careful not to buy additional material.
• After all the structures are filled with polystyrene foam, we proceed to “blowing in” the joints and cracks with foam. When it hardens, the protruding mass can be trimmed off stationery knife. To not do extra work, fill the gaps carefully so that the foam does not protrude out. If the attic is subsequently used as an attic, then additional protection no foam is needed. It simply does not need it and will perform an excellent thermal insulation function.

Granular polystyrene very similar to the foam described above. Only it is produced not in the form of sheets, but as small balls. But granulated polystyrene is very rarely used for ceiling insulation, although it is very easy to use. The balls do not burn, quickly and well fill the entire structure, and perform an excellent thermal insulation function.

The first thing you need to do when insulating the ceiling with polystyrene is rough preparation, cleaning the areas from various debris. Then polystyrene is poured into all structures and distributed evenly. It doesn't get compacted. Experts recommend spreading it in a layer of up to 20 cm. The material will not weigh down the structure, since it is very light.

The filled polystyrene is covered with a vapor-permeable membrane. You can use any other material that is capable of permeable air.

This necessary condition, since the balls can fly away when the slightest wind blows.

This technology is quite effective and provides a fairly high level of thermal insulation in a private home. Another argument in favor of granulated polystyrene is its price. You can purchase it at a price of 5,500 rubles per cubic meter. It is easy to calculate that if you insulate the ceiling with a layer of about 20 centimeters, then 1 cubic meter of polystyrene will cover 5 square meters of the ceiling.

Another option for insulating the ceiling is penoizol. This is the newest material. It is produced in liquid form. By pouring the structure, you can fill all the cracks and voids. The service life of the material is up to 30 years. The only negative is that you need special equipment, special knowledge and skills for its installation. If you choose this material, you will need to attract specialists and additionally pay for their work.

But the specialists will do everything for you; your function is only to control their work. You only need to complete preparatory work– clean the insulated areas from various debris, remove interfering objects and things.

The next step is preparation and direct installation of the vapor barrier membrane. She protects wooden structures from moisture that will be released during the process of filling the ceiling with foam insulation. The membrane will create a barrier and release all vapors outside.

Now the specialists can get to work. They will apply penoizol in the required layer over the entire area. this work runs pretty quickly. As for drying the material, for this it is necessary certain time.

There is no need to cover (insulate) the surface insulated with foam insulation. Even if penoizol “protrudes” higher in some places, then this, if necessary, can be solved using a regular construction knife.

Now you need to figure out the cost of the material itself. One cubic meter of penoizol will cost you 1700-1800 rubles. This is a fairly reasonable price. As a result, you get the minimum headache and an excellent result.

Another option is ceiling insulation mineral wool . It can be noted that this is the most popular technology for insulating not only the ceiling, but also walls and floors. The work can be divided into several stages.

Just like in everyone previous versions thermal insulation works, the area is cleaned and all debris is removed. Then a material is laid that allows steam and water to pass through. The hydraulic barrier is mounted using a stapler. In order for everything to be done reliably, it is necessary to make overlaps of up to 15 cm. Use tape to strengthen them.

Remember that a well-made vapor barrier is important stage work with this technology.

When the vapor barrier is done, you can begin to fill the space between the beams with mineral wool. It is supplied both in rolls and in small sheets. The material is comfortable and lightweight. If you bought mineral wool in rolls, you can easily cut it into the pieces you need and lay it between the beams. Fill the space between the beams so that there are no gaps. The materials must fit tightly to each other. In order for mineral wool to fulfill its purpose well, it must be laid with a thickness of at least 10 cm. Only under this condition can it properly fulfill its purpose.

When installing rigid slabs, you should pay attention to the fact that the sheathing must be continuous. It is very important to properly waterproof the entire surface. Only after this the slabs are laid. Also remember that hard mineral wool will protect your fireplace from heat loss much better.

When working with mineral wool, you must take care of your own protection. Purchase a respirator and gloves in advance. After all the insulation work, mineral wool will not pose a danger to you and your family members. But during the installation process, when the material needs to be cut and taken by hand, small particles of cotton wool will enter the lungs and irritate the mucous membranes, and if they come into contact with the skin of the hands, they will cause itching and redness.

Despite this minor disadvantage, mineral wool is great if you need to insulate the attic yourself, without hiring specialists.

Mineral wool insulation technology

The entire insulated surface must be covered with a special windproof membrane. It will also protect from moisture from the outside, ensuring the removal of excess moisture from the inside. Installation is carried out as standard - using a special stapler. All joints are securely secured with special tape.

The cotton wool then fills the space between the slings. The best option for material thickness is up to 20 centimeters. The cotton wool must be laid tightly, avoiding any gaps. Due to the fact that the attic is protected only by the roof, it needs to be insulated very well. Do not skimp on the thickness of mineral wool. In order for mineral wool sheets to hold tightly, they need to be well secured. You can use one of several methods for this procedure.

In the first case, you need to stuff the slats on top of the insulating layer. In another, stretch the twine on the surface. It will hold mineral wool perfectly, it won’t go anywhere.

Then comes the vapor barrier. The choice of this material is yours. Once it is attached, finishing can begin. Sheets of plywood are used; it is good to use plasterboard or lining for the attic.

The next technology for insulating the ceiling of a private house is thermal insulation sawdust. Very often this material is used in dachas.

If you don't want to spend large amounts money for insulating such buildings, budget options are quite suitable.

What you will need to insulate the ceiling of a country house:

• Sawdust from any type of wood. It is important that they are dry and not rotten. Such material can be found at the sawmill. They will gladly sell them to you for pennies.
• You will definitely need lime. It is used to protect the material from mold and all kinds of pests. It is added in a ratio of 1: 10. Buy finely ground lime (fluffed lime).

• To make the composition strong, many experts recommend adding cement (one part cement and 10 parts sawdust).
• It is recommended to use copper sulfate as an antiseptic.

The work algorithm is approximately as follows:

• Take a container convenient for mixing that you have on hand. summer cottage. It mixes 10 parts of sawdust, part of cement and lime. It is necessary to mix everything so that the mass is homogeneous.
• After this procedure, add water. The water should already be with copper sulfate. It must be poured in carefully; the entire heat-insulating mass should not be damp or wet, but only slightly damp.
• Then you need to move on to the next stage - preparing the ceiling. The entire surface of the ceiling should be covered with a layer of glassine. Lay this material overlapping so that the next one overlaps the previous one by 15 cm. The glassine will perform a waterproofing function and will not allow moisture to penetrate into wooden structures. The already mentioned stapler is used to fasten glassine.

• Next, the prepared mass of thermal insulation must be evenly distributed over the entire area. The thickness of the heat-insulating layer is recommended from 10 cm. The material does not require compaction.
• It takes some time for the laid layer of sawdust to dry completely. As a rule (it all depends on the weather), drying takes up to two weeks. But you can speed up the process available means. While the sawdust is drying, make sure that the attic is well ventilated. You cannot walk on such thermal insulation. If you plan to use the attic for domestic purposes, you will have to invest in boards or plywood that will protect the insulating material.

Another available material for insulation – a mixture of clay and sawdust. This mass will perfectly protect the house from loss of precious heat. Another bonus is the absolute environmental friendliness of this option.

To work on insulation you will need:

1. directly the clay itself, which you can extract yourself with a shovel;
2. sawdust(use the services of a sawmill);
3. some cement. Buy it taking into account the consumption of 1:10.

You can prepare the sawdust-clay mass as follows:

If you have a concrete mixer, then you need to pour several buckets of clay into it, gradually add water so that the output is a liquid mass. Then sawdust is added. You need to add more until the solution becomes relatively dense. Make sure that the mixture is not very wet. This important point. When these conditions are met, cement can be added. It will thoroughly dry out such a composition.

Straw is also often used instead of sawdust. In this case, you will get adobe.

Next material, suitable for thermal insulation on the roof side – expanded clay It has fairly good thermal insulation properties, is quite lightweight and does not weigh down the insulated surface. It is easy to attach. It is also a fire-resistant material. In order for the use of expanded clay for thermal insulation to be effective, you need to make a layer of about 20 cm. Otherwise, there will be large heat losses. The roof beams should also be the same height.

Expanded clay is very widely used for thermal insulation. The technology for insulating a private house with it is quite simple. The surface under the backfill is cleared of foreign debris, and a vapor-permeable membrane is installed. The material is poured over the entire surface, covering the beams. To strengthen it you will need a stapler. Such work can be performed by any owner with minimum set tools.

Ecowool- another common way to insulate the ceiling of a private house. They started using it not so long ago. It's comparative new material for thermal insulation. Ecowool contains cellulose. Fire retardants and antiseptics are also added to it. They are needed to ensure that the material is non-flammable and safe. Due to the fact that ecowool has a capillary structure, moisture evaporates well from its surface. Additives in the form of an antiseptic prevent the appearance of mold and fungi.

Trust the specialists if you decide to use this insulation option.

Work algorithm:

No special surface preparation is needed. Cellulose is “friendly” with wood. It is necessary to clear the surface of debris and rid the room of unnecessary objects.

Ceiling insulation work can be carried out using both dry and wet methods. For the dry method, the material is applied under pressure to the surface to be insulated. At wet method wet mass is fed. After it dries, the adhesion of the material is very high quality. The wet method is more often used due to the fact that it increases the sound insulation rate.

Many people are concerned about the question: “How and with what to insulate the ceiling in a living room?” And not just insulate, but make sure that the insulation doubles as a decorative material - and there are many such options. Our article will discuss how to choose the best option for thermal insulation material, and how to properly insulate the ceiling in a particular room.

Ceiling in the apartment

Insulation of ceilings in an apartment may be necessary only in one case - if it is on the top floor. And it doesn’t even make much difference whether the house has an attic or not. Even if there is, it is still not heated. Unless, in this case, the likelihood of your ceiling getting wet if the roof leaks is reduced.

• But it also happens that after a good rainfall or melting snow, the ceiling in your apartment is wet. And where there is dampness, it is cold - and such a nuisance, alas, is not uncommon, especially in old houses.

• And if this does happen, you shouldn’t despair. Simply, before insulating the ceiling in an apartment, you need to perform a number of manipulations. Of course, you need to get rid of it first, and our website has detailed articles on this topic. But if it hasn’t come to that, then the main thing that needs to be done is to block the moisture.
• To do this, you will need a waterproofing repair compound such as Aquastop, Kalmastop, Gidroizol. These are penetrating soils that can not only block incoming moisture, but also displace existing moisture from the thickness of concrete.

• These compositions are effective even in cases where there are cracks in the slabs (see), open up to three millimeters. At the same time, the structure being processed does not have to be dry. If there is a seam on the ceiling formed by the joint of the plates, and it is large enough, you will need a joint compound, which, when crystallized, forms an insurmountable barrier for water.

Advice! After treating the seams and corner joints of the ceiling, they can be strengthened by gluing self-adhesive fiberglass insulating tape around their perimeter.

Having finished processing the joints, you can begin to apply waterproofing primer over the entire ceiling area. We insulate the ceiling after the coating layer has dried. If you have waterproofed it using the technology we described above, your ceiling is now safe.

You can decorate it in any way convenient for you. But you still need to install the insulation, and this requires a frame. If the height of the room is quite low, and you don’t want to take away another 12-15 cm, it’s worth considering options for frameless insulation.

Thermal insulation plaster

And here is your first idea on how to insulate the ceiling on the top floor. One of the frameless options for insulation, not only of the ceiling, but also of the walls, is warm plaster.

What is it:

• These are dry mixtures composed of porous fillers and plasticizing additives. The binder base of mixtures used for interior work, is still the same plaster.
• Different kinds heat-insulating plasters They differ from each other only in the type of filler. Depending on the manufacturer, the following can serve as filler: granulated expanded clay, expanded polystyrene, foam glass or silicon, vermiculite or perlite expanded sand.
• Cheaper options use sawdust, but this is not the best for an apartment. the best option. We will not dwell on the properties of each type of warm plaster. Let's just say that they all have good adhesion to various surfaces, are resistant to dampness and mold, and have a low thermal conductivity coefficient.

• For residential premises, it is best to use plasters with fillers of natural origin. They are applied to the wall without pre-leveling, in one layer. In this case, there is no need to install reinforcing mesh. Some of the thermal insulating plasters do not even require finishing.
• For example: foam glass mixtures. They are so plastic that they even allow you to create a relief on the surface of a ceiling or wall, or form decorative elements similar to stucco. Such plaster itself, due to the coarse filler, creates a coating with an interesting texture.
• Naturally, this material is the most expensive compared to others. warm compounds. On the other hand, the thermal conductivity coefficient of foam glass-based plaster is 30-40% lower than that of mineral wool.

By the way, foam glass can also be used. There are aluminum acoustic panels coated with foam glass.

They are very light, rigid, and have excellent sound insulation. The panels come in various formats and can be used not only for suspended ceilings, but also for wall cladding.

Cork agglomerate

How and how to insulate the ceiling in order to do without leveling and installing the frame, and even better - without finishing? We offer another, environmentally friendly option for ceiling insulation.

• This is the covering of its surface with cork agglomerate. The cork is not at all afraid of moisture, it is very light, and can be mounted either with glue or on lathing. The installation method will depend on which coating you prefer: roll or in the form of slabs.
• This material is made from the bark of a certain type of oak tree called cork. White agglomerate is used as decorative coatings for walls and ceilings.
• It is obtained by molding and pressing granules in an organic binder: gelatin, coal-stone pitch, resins. Polymers are not used in the production of cork coverings.

• A huge advantage of this material is its varied texture and colors, the possibility of painting, drawing, or stenciling. Cork covering perfectly hides small unevenness and defects in the ceiling, so it does not require preliminary leveling of the surface.
• The only condition for gluing cork is a cement base. That is, if there was previously a plaster screed on the ceiling, it will have to be removed. From figures and elements cut from cork different color, you can create applications, panels, and entire paintings on the ceiling.
• We talk about the ceiling because it is the topic of our conversation. Naturally, everything we talk about is also relevant for other surfaces. For finishing floors and walls cork coverings are used even more often.
• By the way, cork flooring, designed for installation with glue, can also be used for the ceiling. It is glued either to base ceiling, or to the surface slab insulation, as shown in the photo below.

And if you need to decorate and insulate the entire apartment, why is the ceiling worse than the floor or walls? Cork is often used in the design of the entire room.

Cork is hypoallergenic, so cork flooring is ideal for children's rooms and bedrooms. Such a room will not only be warm, but also perfectly insulated from noise. Why don’t you decorate your apartment like this?

Needless to say, all materials mounted on the frame are good when it is necessary to insulate the ceiling. And this is not only cork or solid wood, but also any sheet and modular options: plasterboard, MDF panels, even plastic - because insulation can be placed inside the structure.

Eco panels and foam tiles

How can you insulate the ceiling in order to also create a design worthy of decorating the interior of the living room? Continuing the topic of decorative materials, which are excellent insulation materials, one cannot fail to mention eco-panels. This is a relatively new material that has a three-dimensional surface, for which it received 3D status.

• The three-dimensional surface of volumetric panels is perceived differently, depending on the lighting. By using an eco panel for ceiling cladding, you can insulate the ceiling and get chic design. Just look at this variety! Shown here are options that already have finishing, and those that can be painted.
• Eco panels are produced from natural raw materials of plant origin: dissolved cellulose, crushed bamboo, reed, straw, or the same cork. The binder is organic resins. Due to this, this material is referred to with the prefix “eco”.
• Installing such panels using glue is very simple. To prevent the ceilings in all rooms from looking the same, you can use panels with different texture, or you can use your own insulation option in each room.

You can also use small-format, glue-mounted and polystyrene foam or fiberglass tiles to obtain a beautiful and insulated ceiling. The latter, however, is more often installed on a frame, according to the system cassette ceilings. However, additional insulation can be installed in such a structure.

We insulate the ceiling in a private house

Speaking about ceiling insulation in a private house, it should be noted that it may be needed in two cases. The first one is if the house has a basement, or ground floor. The second is the attic ceiling, or attic floor.

If area basement corresponds total area at home, it is more convenient to carry out insulation from the upper rooms - that is, in the process of installing the floor of the first floor. If, of course, the floor design allows it.

If the floor is concrete

It is carried out simultaneously with their installation. All the nuances of this technology are described in detail in one of the articles on our website.

We will consider the option when in brick or block house used reinforced concrete slabs ceilings So, smooth and smooth surface slabs are an ideal base for tiling, laying parquet or laminate.

In this case, it is unlikely that it would occur to anyone to do insulation from this side. Therefore, it is better if the insulation is laid on the ceiling during the finishing of the basement floor.

First, the entire ceiling area is treated with waterproofing impregnation - it will not allow condensation to accumulate. Then, depending on the selected decorative covering, mounted aluminum frame or wooden sheathing.

• Board materials can be used as insulation: polystyrene foam, different kinds mineral wool, expanded polystyrene foam. Roll insulation, in this case, are not very convenient to use.
• There is practically no need to cut the slabs. The main thing is to choose their size so that the width matches the pitch of the profile, or is one or two centimeters wider. Then the insulation will fit tightly into the cells and will not fall out during installation. Facade dowels with a wide head are used as insulation fixation.
• Attaching the insulation to the ceiling can also be done using the adhesive method. Then, not used as a waterproofing layer roll material, but an absorbent primer of deep penetration.
• After allowing the ceiling to dry after applying impregnating waterproofing, install the frame and apply glue to required area, press the insulation board against it. To carry out this process, there is special type glue.

When the installation of the insulation is completed, plastic film or foil is glued over it. This is a vapor barrier layer. If you buy a more expensive one modern insulation, the front side of which already comes with foil cladding from the factory, all you have to do is lay the slabs with foil inside the room.

Here, in fact, the process of insulating the ceiling is completed. Next it is mounted on the frame decorative surface: plastic or MDF panels, plasterboard, lining, etc.

If insulation boards are installed without a frame, then a fine-mesh fiberglass mesh is fixed on top of them and plaster is applied. Most often, the same ones are used for insulation warm plasters, which were mentioned at the beginning of the article. But this is on the façade. And in the case of the ceiling, you can use either liquid wallpaper or decorative putty.

Ceiling on basement and attic floors

To insulate the basement, it is quite possible to use another method: covering the surface of the ceiling, and the entire room, with liquid polyurethane foam. But for this you will have to turn to specialists, because you will need special equipment, which makes no sense to buy for a one-time job.

• However, if the basement is residential, you can apply the same types of insulation mentioned above. In such cases, suspended ceilings are most often installed, since they are built into lighting and ventilation.

• When the house has two or three floors, it will be necessary to insulate the ceiling only on the last one. If there is an attic on top, the easiest way is to insulate the floor from the side of this room. There you can use all types of insulation, even polymer.
• The most convenient, and cheaper, would be to use bulk insulation: expanded clay, vermiculite, polystyrene foam granules or penofol. Ordinary sawdust is also often used for this purpose, although it must be remembered that sawdust is highly flammable, just like foam plastic.

• To backfill the insulation, install on the floor surface, previously covered with roofing felt. wooden joists. The logs must be treated with an antiseptic in advance. Bulk insulation, especially if a flammable option is used, it is better to fill it with liquid cement mortar.
• Expanded clay or vermiculite may not be poured. But, if the floor is made in the attic, which will be used as residential attic, these types of insulation are not only filled with a solution, a reinforcing steel mesh is also embedded in it.

After the concrete has set, a self-leveling floor is installed on the floor surface. It turns out durable and level base, on which you can lay any floor covering.

Conclusion

Another scenario is also possible. In a house that does not have an attic, the roof slopes serve as the ceiling. This, in fact, also applies to the attic ceiling. Then the insulation is installed between the rafters. It may not be necessary to do lathing - it all depends on the design of the roof.

The technology of work here may not differ from that used to insulate the basement ceiling. When internal surfaces The walls and roof slopes are so well insulated that there is no need to insulate the ceiling either. Moreover, if attic floor Heated like all other rooms in the house.

We hope that we have helped you figure out how to insulate the ceiling. For clarity, we also suggest watching the video in this article.

Insulating the ceiling in an apartment is more necessary for extreme floors of the house. Above the ceilings of the upper floors there are either unheated technical attics or flat roofs. Here it is necessary to heat and sound insulate the ceiling, select a material that meets these requirements.

Insulation of the ceiling of a basement or plinth, relevant for lower floors . Here the cold penetrates through the ceilings of basements and basements of buildings. This also applies to private houses.

It is not always possible to thermally insulate an apartment from the basement, attic or roof. More often it is necessary to insulate an apartment from the floor of the lower floors and from the ceiling of the uppermost apartments.

Insulating the ceiling of an apartment from the inside for residential premises has a number of requirements SNiP 02/23/2003 “THERMAL PROTECTION OF BUILDINGS”, A SanPiN 2.1.2.1002-00 determines the sanitary epidemiological requirements for residential buildings and premises. With the rise in prices for space heating, the demand for the service of insulating the ceiling of an apartment has increased, especially from residents of the outermost floors. The bulk of heat loss occurs in ceilings and basement floors. Ceiling insulation from the attic side and from the floor side are similar.

Old housing stock - apartments built in the middle or end of the last century have attic floors, insulated bulk materials: expanded clay, slag, which, although durable, are inferior in terms of thermal insulation properties in comparison with light thermal insulation materials and place an increased load on the attic floor.

Major repairs and reconstruction of such floors involve diagnostics load-bearing structures, replacement, thermal insulation. The same reconstruction is carried out in private houses, when the roofing and attic space under the attic.

Attics have floors in the form concrete slabs, or floor joists to which the subfloor is mounted, and between the joists it is filled or laid thermal insulation material . A budget option- this is to increase the thickness of the layer with bedding bulk materials on previously laid insulation. Cover with expanded clay, slag, and cellulose in an even layer. The second option is to lay insulation between the joists. This is a classic option that is suitable for both concrete and wooden floors.

(2) – the insulation can be of any kind, if the attic is non-residential, if it is an attic, then the insulation is chosen from environmentally friendly materials: basalt wool , cellulose, eco cotton wool, expanded clay. The logs (5) are made from edged boards 40 x 150 mm, impregnated with anti-rotting substances.

Vapor barrier material(6) laid below and above the insulation. Usually the logo on films is applied on the side that does not allow steam or moisture to pass through, but if you do not know which side to lay the film on, contact the seller. Instructions are included with the film materials. Instead of a membrane film (which is expensive), a regular one is laid on the slab plastic film or glassine. A film is needed on top of the insulation if it is a living space.

How to insulate the ceiling in an apartment

For attic room More attention is paid to the ceiling under the roof; heat leaks here in winter and overheating of the attic in summer. Insulation attic floor rather, it plays the role of sound insulation, and therefore the counter rail (3) serves to cushion and create a gap between the vapor barrier and the floor. This gap is necessary for ventilation and evaporation of moisture from the insulation. If this cold attic, then ladders for walking are placed on top of the logs.

Insulation is selected according to three indicators: density, thermal conductivity coefficient l -lambda And price.

Effective in degree thermal conductivity are materials. for which l – 0.03 – 0.06. The density of these materials is expressed in kg/m3.

By price and thermal conductivity the best insulation materials are: mineral wool (glass wool, stone wool and slag wool), cellulose, polystyrene foam. Expensive insulation materials: wood fiber, polyurethane foam, cork. Insulation on the ceiling is chosen from two functions: heat and sound insulation of the ceiling. These criteria correspond to board materials of medium and high density. Thermal insulation of the ceiling in the apartment is carried out environmentally clean materials, non-flammable.

Insulation of the ceiling of an apartment on the top floor is sometimes carried out not only because of heat loss in winter, but also because heat the temperature in the room during the day reaches +30 +40 degrees and the costs of air conditioning empty the homeowner’s wallet.

Step-by-step instructions for insulating the ceiling in an apartment from the inside

Ceiling concrete floor before gluing PAROK panels or other boards medium density prepared as follows.

Use a metal scraper or brush to remove loose plaster and paint from the ceiling. Then the cracks and cracks are filled with putty and a primer is applied. Afterwards, an adhesive solution is prepared from the dry mixture in a container. Buy quick-setting glue “Typhoon” or another, read the instructions. Manual construction mixer or using a drill with an attachment, dilute such an amount of glue so that it can be used within 2 hours. It is not recommended to add water to the drying mixture. Dispose of any leftovers.

Preparing the panels for gluing. Apply to the rough side of the panel adhesive solution. Then use a comb spatula to even out the thickness of the layer. We glue the panel, starting from the far corner of the room.

In order for the panels to fit tightly to each other, they must be glued in a checkerboard pattern. Between two parallel panels a gap is left 2-3 mm narrower than the panel. Then the next panel fits tightly between them without seams.

This is what the ceiling looks like after the insulation is complete.

Then there are two options, if the ceilings are high, then it is recommended to do suspended ceiling, then there is no need to stick on a painting mesh, putty, prime, or paint. The cost of these works is comparable, but the speed is not: the suspended ceiling is completed in a few hours.

Insulating the ceiling in an apartment is also soundproofing. The best way comply with these conditions - installation suspension system on damper suspensions with installation of heat-insulating boards laminated on both sides with aluminum foil on the ceiling.

The slabs are easily attached to the ceiling with dowels and umbrellas. Then they are decorated with a suspended or suspended ceiling. This is just for the upper floors, where you have to protect yourself from radiant heat penetrating through flat roof. Aluminum foil reflects radiant energy by 90%. These panels are delivered to order, because they are difficult to find in the open market.

Useful video

Let's look at specific example how to insulate the ceiling in an apartment:

One of the problems in a private home is heat leakage through the ceiling. If in apartment building above warm apartment, then in our case there is only a cold attic overhead, or even just a street. How to insulate the ceiling from the inside in a private house if, for some reason, it is not possible to do this from the attic?

Selection of materials

Let's start with the insulation structure. It will be multi-layered; we have to do it sequentially:

• External steam and waterproofing insulation;
• Lathing for filling with heat-insulating material;
• Actually thermal insulation;
• Internal vapor barrier;
• Finally, the ceiling must be hemmed with any finishing material.

Vapor barrier

Glassine is most often used as a vapor barrier - inexpensive material with quite acceptable consumer properties. However, if you need additional insurance against leaks - best choice there will be good old plastic wrap. It is absolutely impermeable to water and has a service life of at least fifty years.

Vapor barrier sheets are laid with overlap. If the ceiling is sloped (for example, in the attic), the film is laid in rows from bottom to top so that condensation cannot flow under the lower sheets. It is better to additionally seal the inner layer of vapor barrier with tape. This will ensure absolute tightness.

Why are all these measures needed? The worst enemy of mineral and ecowool insulation is condensation. Wet mineral wool greatly reduces its thermal insulation qualities. And the humidity indoors in winter is always much higher than outside (see).

Please note: if we insulate from below reinforced concrete floor, upper layer no vapor barrier needed. Between the moisture-impervious concrete and the insulation, the water simply has nowhere to come from.

Thermal insulating material

Two materials are most often used as insulation::

1. Styrofoam. Aka polystyrene foam. The slabs in which it is sold are quite large; recommended thickness for temperate climates is 5 centimeters, for Siberia and Far East — 10.

The main advantage is that this insulation is non-hygroscopic, it does not dampen. If so, with any fluctuations in humidity, the quality of the ceiling’s thermal insulation will not change (see).

1. Mineral wool (glass wool, ecowool, basalt wool and other variations on the same theme). The material is noticeably cheaper than foam plastic with the same degree of thermal insulation provided.

In addition, it is considered more environmentally friendly: mineral fiber does not emit anything into the atmosphere, and heated debates about the possible harm to health continue regarding the properties of expanded polystyrene.

The debate about which material is better can also be endless. On any construction portal you can meet convinced adherents of both methods of insulation; Therefore, we will not impose a certain position on the reader.

Let's just say that polystyrene foam changes its properties over time to a lesser extent, not only in a humid environment: mineral wool cakes over time. Even if perfect vapor barrier is provided.

If you choose polystyrene foam boards as thermal insulation - inner layer vapor barriers are also useless. It is enough to simply glue the seams between the plates with wide tape (see).

Sometimes the foam is simply placed on glue. From below it is covered with a layer decorative plaster- and the ceiling is ready.

Lathing

Two types of lathing are used: wooden and galvanized profile.

The wooden one is a little cheaper and a little easier to install. But the galvanized profile does not deform with fluctuations in temperature and humidity, is not affected by fungus and does not serve as food for insects.

Nuance: if we're talking about about insulating the ceiling from the inside wooden house- you can safely make the sheathing from a bar or slats. Really, what's the point of doing suspended ceiling stronger and more durable than walls and ceilings? Of course, it is worth treating the material for the sheathing with an antiseptic.

Binder

Everything is in your hands here. Most quick way hem the ceiling - PVC wall panels. In addition, they are easy to clean.

However, drywall will give flat surface no seams; can be built and slatted ceiling, and hanging tile... The choice of material is solely a matter of personal preference and the budget allocated for repairs.

Basic Operations

As an example, let's consider insulating the ceiling from the inside in a private house for the case where there are beams overhead with a plank ceiling attached to them. The climate is temperate; We will be insulated with mineral wool 50 mm thick.

1. Armed with a stapler, we attach plastic film to the ceiling. It will completely stop the flow of moisture to the boards from the room and extend the life of our ceiling. An overlap of ten centimeters is required.
2. We stuff the sheathing. We will hem the ceiling with PVC panels; a thin mounting rail is sufficient for them. But let's not forget about the thickness of the thermal insulation and take a 50x50 block.

We will stuff it across the future panels in increments of 60 centimeters: in this case, the panels will not sag, and the mineral wool will not have to be cut to width. Most rolls are of this size.

1. We fill the gaps between the bars with mineral wool. It is better to wear textile gloves and protect your eyes and nose: cotton wool fibers are volatile.

1. Armed with a stapler again, we hem the sheathing from below with a second layer of polyethylene. Additionally, we glue the connections of the sheets with adhesive tape: the greater the tightness we provide, the longer the insulation will retain its properties.
2. Finally, final stage: we hem the wall panels from below. We won’t focus on how this is done: installation methods have already been described hundreds of times.

Hem the panels to wooden sheathing- the task is more than simple.

Conclusion

Our goal has been achieved: the room is insulated from the inside. You don't have to be afraid of winter. The downside was that we lost about six centimeters of ceiling height. Unfortunately, the sacrifice was inevitable... Good luck with the repair!

If your home is located on the top floor, then regardless of the presence or absence of an attic, insulating the ceiling of the apartment will not be superfluous, because no one wants to lose precious gigacalories of heat. In modern houses, builders most often take care of this, but in old buildings this work is shifted onto the shoulders of the residents and thrifty owners understand that communal payments It’s better to spend money once for long-term savings.

Insulating the ceiling from the outside

The simplest and most suitable option for preserving the volume of the living space of a room is to insulate the ceiling from the outside, that is, from the attic side, unless, of course, the attic space is not used for utility purposes and the housing office allows this. In this case, the floor in the attic is cleaned and thermal insulation boards ROCKWOOL (you can additionally fix them with glue, but not necessary) and a layer of expanded clay is poured on top of them (Figure 1). Insulation must be carried out, covering part of the territory outside the apartment, and limiters (boards) are placed along the edges of the site so that the expanded clay does not crumble from the edges.

In some cases, the insulation on the attic side is covered with a layer of waterproofing and a screed is installed on top. This is a more labor-intensive and expensive process, it is economically justified only if insulation is carried out throughout the attic, because you will not only have to buy expanded clay and insulation, but also order (mix) a screed solution and lay it level.

You can use not only Rockwool. But also ordinary foam. When insulating the attic floor ( cold attic) the insulation does not have to be fastened with butterflies - you can get by with a regular adhesive for attaching heat-insulating boards.

Insulation of the ceiling from the inside

For insulating the ceiling from the inside There are several methods, but any of them will “eat up” part of the volume of the living space, so before carrying out work it is necessary to calculate their effectiveness. The best option This is a combination of insulating the ceiling and covering it with plasterboard for decorative purposes, because in this case it is possible, having lost volume, to gain in the design of the room due to new system backlight. Thermal insulation in this case is made between the ribs profile frame fastening slabs or foam plastic close to the profile with self-adhesive tape.

If you are interested classic insulation without drywall, then you can go two ways -

1. — Mount the frame for thermal insulation slabs,
2. — Attach ROCKWOOL insulation or an equivalent to the base of the ceiling using special “butterfly fasteners” and glue.

In the first case, a distance equal to or slightly greater than the thickness of the thermal insulation is removed from the base of the ceiling and a guide profile is attached around the perimeter of the room. Next, marks are made on its sides every 40-50 cm, which are connected by a ceiling profile element. All that remains is to divide the interprofile niches into cells, using self-tapping screws to fix the profile, fill them with insulation and secure it to the frame ribs. The top of such a cake is covered with a reinforcing mesh with glue and is subjected to a standard painting finish.

If the insulation is attached directly to the ceiling (Figure 2), then first the insulation boards are fixed with glue, after which they are additionally pressed with “butterflies” after drilling holes with a puncher in ceiling slab(several per m2) and thermal insulation.

We recommend using LIGHT BATTS SCANDIC 800x600x50 mm for insulation. One package contains 12 thermal insulation boards 5 cm thick. The package is enough for 5.76 m2, and its price in the fall of 2017 in Moscow is 470 rubles.