Insulation of the frame bath with sawdust. Methods and features of warming a frame bath. Foamed synthetic materials

05.03.2020

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Frame construction is on the rise. Previously, customers shunned it, doubting its reliability and durability. Now the experience of many developers allows you to increasingly resort to this technology. Even baths are made in a wooden-frame style. Although in this case a correctly installed skeleton is still half the success. Proper insulation of the frame bath is one of the factors for the long service life of the building and savings on heating. Let us consider in more detail the materials and methods of insulation.

Features of warming the bath

The choice of insulation depends not only on construction technology. An important factor is which bath is to be insulated. Bath can be:

Russian bath "in black";
Russian bath "in white";
Japanese "Ofuro";
Turkish "Hamam";
German "Sanarium";
Finnish.

When choosing the insulation material, the temperature and humidity conditions of the room should be taken into account. For example, taking an ofuro bath is characterized by a large evaporation of the liquid. In such a bath, the procedure consists in immersing the body in a barrel of water. Water temperature +45°С. With this method of bathing, there is an abundant settling of liquid on surfaces. Therefore, reinforced waterproofing and insulation with low moisture absorption are needed.

In the sanarium, both temperature and humidity are relatively low. Therefore, you can not worry about maintaining high temperatures with insulation. The main thing is that the insulation effectively copes with the preservation of temperature.

The high temperature in the hammam requires the material to:

incombustibility;
efficient operation at high temperatures;
no emission of harmful substances during heating.

The choice of material for insulation

Any insulation is selected based on the heat engineering calculation. It takes into account:

Based on the thickness of the material used, the width of the frame beam is selected. If the width of the frame is small, insulation occurs from the inside or outside of the building.

The step of the supporting racks of the frame is also calculated based on the width of the insulation. For mineral wool mats, it may not be too hard. After all, the compressibility of the mat will allow it to be deformed for the device between the racks.

With hard heaters, the pitch of the racks should be clearly set. After all, if the distance is inaccurate, the slab will need to be cut or added. In some cases, this can be difficult.

Foam insulation

The main advantage of polystyrene is its low cost. Basically, 100 mm polystyrene foam is enough to insulate the dressing room, kitchen and rest room. It can be a single piece or two 50 mm elements.

For direct insulation of the steam room, a layer of 150 mm is required. Only in this case, the insulation will be effective.

Basically, the entire line of foam boards is combustible. Therefore, for a bath, it is better to choose products of the PSB-S brand containing antipyrine. They belong to the flammability class G1.

The ignition temperature of the plates is 491 °. This is almost twice the ignition temperature of wood.

Low water absorption protects foam boards from rotting. The plate absorbs only 2% of the liquid per day.

The thermal conductivity of the material is only 0.038 W/(m*K). This is due to the composition of the foam boards. The product is 98% air and only 2% is polystyrene.

Despite the constant mention of soundproofing, this figure is low. Only 4 dB is absorbed.

The disadvantage of foam is increased fragility when:

transportation;
processing;
mechanical impact.

Because of this, it is necessary to purchase material with a margin.

Insulation with mineral wool boards

Mineral wool is available in:

mats;
rolls;
cylinders.

The first two types are used to insulate the walls of the frame bath. It is better to use mats, as their shrinkage is less. Rolled materials slip over time, therefore it is more rational to insulate horizontal surfaces with them.

With the help of mineral wool cylinders, thermal conductivity is reduced:

ventilation;
plumbing;
pipes that conduct steam and heat.

Mineral wool is available in several types:

glass wool;
slag;
basalt wool.

The thermal conductivity of this material is 0.041-0.045 W / (m * C). These indicators are taken from GOST 1995-01-01. Therefore, an indication of lower values \u200b\u200bin the passport should alert the consumer.

Density values vary. For soft mats, they are 20 kg / m3, for slabs intended for insulating floors and road surfaces - 200 kg / m3. To create a warm bath, the lowest density is sufficient, in case of insulation inside the walls. The device for external cladding for painting will tighten the requirements for density.

Almost all types of mineral wool are non-combustible materials. The melting temperature of the fibers is 650°C. Only foil products are assigned class G1.

The reflective layer contributes to the preservation of heat, reflecting up to 95% of the heat flux. Its advantage is the protection of mineral wool from moisture.

A high absorption rate is one of the significant disadvantages of the material. To protect it, a dense, with well-protected joints, hydrobarrier is arranged.

Insulation with sawdust

Many will say that this is unacceptable for a bath. Yes, if you use raw sawdust.
Effective and safe insulation requires mixing sawdust with other components:

sawdust 10 parts;
gypsum or cement 1 part;
8 liters of water.

In the process of mixing, an antiseptic is added to the mixture. Often, boric acid acts in its role.

Antiseptic will protect the plates from damage:

fungus;
mold;
rodents.

Such insulation for a bath can be made independently or ordered factory plates. Arbolite materials are made on warping of wood shavings.

The thermal conductivity of the material under consideration is impressive - from 0.07 to 0.17 W / m * ° C.

Products are produced in the form of blocks. To insulate a wooden frame bath, you can use narrow blocks 500 * 250 * 150 mm. You can also cut wider blocks to length.
An additional, pleasant advantage is the environmental friendliness of the material. When heated, it does not emit toxins and unpleasant odors.

Insulation with polyurethane foam

One of the most expensive, but effective ways, spraying polyurethane foam. The material is characterized by:

wall insulation technology

Before you insulate the frame bath, you need to arrange a layer of waterproofing. In its role is a dense PVC film. The film is attached to the outside of the frame with a stapler.

The joints of the waterproofing are mounted with an overlap of at least 10 cm. The joints are glued with adhesive tape.

Film device:

will protect the material from external influences during installation;
protect the insulation from moisture;
prevents the insulation from falling out of the frame before it is fixed.

The insulation is placed between the racks by surprise. Soft mats slip over time, so they are fixed at the top with a rail.

If the slab insulation does not fit snugly against the frame, the joints will foam. With a lack of width of rolled insulation, the gaps are filled with scraps.

A vapor barrier membrane is mounted on top of the insulation. It is attached to the frame with staples.
In the case of foil insulation, an air gap is created in front of the foil layer, on the inside. Its width is taken at least 1 cm. A gap is formed in two ways:

A heater is already used for the frame rack;
A thin rail is stuffed onto the frame rack. In this case, the vapor barrier is also fixed to it.

For the installation of walls near the heating element, a separate technique is required. It is advisable to arrange a wall of refractory bricks at the installation site of the furnace. Warming, in this case, consists in isolating the overheated stone from the room.

Asbestos plates are suitable for a chimney device. They will withstand high temperatures, while not emitting harmful substances.

Bath floor insulation

The floors in the frame structure can be wooden (along the logs) or concrete. The technology of warming a wooden floor is more responsible. Necessary:

In order to arrange a concrete floor, it is necessary to replace the wooden logs with a steel profile. Distributed load does not negate the large weight of the material. Therefore, it is necessary to select beams, following the calculation.

Ceiling insulation

The selection of ceiling insulation must be approached responsibly. After all, a large temperature difference on its surface creates condensation.

The main thing, in the thermal insulation of the ceiling, is the protection of the insulation from moisture penetration. Therefore, it is necessary to create a reliable waterproofing.

Ceiling decoration depends on the type of bath:

a plank ceiling is being created in the Russian steam room;
the ceiling of the hammam is vaulted with mosaics;
It is desirable to make the sanarium relaxing. Therefore, a stretch fabric with built-in starry sky LEDs is ideal.

When filing with a board, the insulation is laid on a waterproofing layer with a finishing board filing.

Cladding with tiles or mosaics will require a dense base. In this case, the "pie" of the ceiling will be as follows:

an insulating layer nested between a profile curved with a hemisphere;
moisture resistant drywall fixed on the profile;
a layer of plaster;
mosaic, arranged on heat-resistant glue.

Stretch PVC fabric itself acts as a moisture protection. Therefore, the insulation is arranged directly on it.

Reading time: 11 minutes

Modern bath attendants often assemble frame bath complexes, since this technology has many strengths, it is cheaper than analogues. If the insulation of the frame bath is not done correctly, it will be impossible to achieve an optimal comfort indicator. Therefore, when building a building, it is important to take care of the thermal insulation of the premises.

Features of heat transfer in buildings

The process of heat transfer in frame buildings depends on the following factors:

waterproofing;
vapor barrier;
wall thickness;
number of layers of thermal insulation.

The quality of ventilation in the room is also important. It can be natural or forced.

Thermal insulation methods

Many owners of steam rooms do not know how to insulate a frame bath. Thermal insulation methods:

The classic method of insulation during construction work. This is an obligatory stage in the construction, sheathing of the frame. The insulation is located inside the walls, between the layers of hydro and vapor barrier.
External insulation of the frame. This is an additional measure that is needed in case of insufficient internal insulation. Foam plastic is used for thermal insulation, which is glued on top of OSB panels, frame sheathing.

It is necessary to think in advance how many layers of insulation it is better to sew into the walls. This will avoid unnecessary work.

Types of heaters

There are many heaters for a frame bath, each of which has certain pros and cons. Polyfoam is a versatile material that can be used not only as a heater. Advantages:

low price;
universality;
resistance to prolonged exposure to moisture;
ease of installation.

Styrofoam ignites when exposed to an open flame.

Mineral wool is a popular type of insulation material. Advantages:

resistance to fire;
durability;
minimum shrinkage;
ecological purity.

Mineral wool quickly becomes unusable when moisture gets on the surface. Therefore, it is necessary to make reliable waterproofing without gaps.

Ecowool is the most unpopular material for warming baths. For him, you need to buy a flame retardant, an antiseptic. Ecowool ignites quickly when exposed to an open flame, it is afraid of water.

Glass wool is a classic insulation that is gradually losing popularity. You need to work with glass wool carefully, wearing protective equipment - gloves, a respirator, glasses, a robe. Glass wool particles can get on the skin, cause redness, severe itching.

Liquid insulation is a good but expensive option for thermal insulation. When working with this material you need:

have practical skills;
use special protective equipment.

If it is not possible to call a team that will fill the empty spaces in the walls and floors with a liquid composition, it is recommended to choose a foil material. Advantages:

low price;
ease of installation;
heat reflection.

When choosing a material for warming a bath, you need to pay attention to the requirements that it must meet:

environmental Safety;
resistance to moisture, temperature extremes;
resistance to fungi, mold.

If the material does not meet most of the requirements, it cannot be considered as a heater.

Principles of work

To insulate a bath, you do not need to have any practical skills. It is enough to study the theory, perform the work as indicated in the instructions.

Wall insulation

Peculiarities:

It is necessary to carry out thermal insulation at the construction stage, when the supports are erected.
Mineral wool slabs are located in the central part of the frame walls, covered on both sides with layers of vapor barrier.
At the last stage, the surfaces are sheathed with OSB boards, they undergo a decorative finish.

The best option for arranging thermal insulation of walls in a bath is to use two layers of insulation. It is important that one be in the form of plates, the other - a roll.

Wall insulation around the stove

Warming features:

Asbestos slabs can be used to protect surrounding surfaces, but many attendants believe that this material is harmful to the body. It is better to choose an analogue - basalt fabric. On top of it, you can fix a reflective sheet of metal that will shield thermal energy.

Thermal insulation of the ceiling and floor

Floor insulation process:

Fill the soil with a screed.
Roll out a roll of roofing material from above, cut it over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe screed.
Lay out insulation boards.
Spread a layer of waterproofing on top.

It remains to fill the last layer of the screed, wait for it to dry completely before performing the following work.

Ceiling insulation:

Fix the vapor barrier layer on the ceiling with a construction stapler.
Install heater.
Fix the final layer of vapor barrier.

It remains to fill the decorative trim for the ceiling in the bath.

Protection of insulation against moisture ingress

For protection, you can use:

foil;
special fabric film.

The most important thing is that there is ventilation inside the wall. Without it, condensate will accumulate, which will lead to the destruction of thermal insulation, the formation of mold on the wood.

Common rookie mistakes:

The vapor barrier is installed on the wrong side. This leads to damage to the insulation.
The integrity of the walls is broken, the lining is damaged, due to which wet steam gets inside.
Insufficient protection of surfaces around the oven from heat.

Without thermal insulation in a frame bath, it is impossible to achieve an optimal level of comfort. Walls, ceiling, floor will freeze quickly, the heat will not be enough. To restore the level of comfort, you need to properly insulate the walls, floor, ceiling.

Surely on the territory of your summer cottage or country house there is a bathhouse, the construction technology of which directly depends on the budget of its owner. As many already know, you can save a lot by choosing a frame-panel bath as a project, because it is thanks to a lightweight foundation that you can easily reduce construction costs.

But how to insulate a frame bath? Is it possible to save at this stage of work and at the same time not increase the level of heat loss? You will find the answer to these questions in this article.

Thermal insulation, made according to all construction rules

Types of insulation for frame structures

You can even insulate the bath yourself

So, before moving on to the question - how to insulate a bath, we will try to understand the types of heaters for a bath and consider all their positive and negative qualities. And what is most likely - you will probably be more interested in the types of insulation that are used for interior decoration in the steam room and dressing room.

Well-dried sawdust, which is mixed with cement or gypsum in a ratio of 10: 1 - according to experts, this heat insulator is one of the most reliable and at the same time inexpensive materials,
Reed slabs, whose thickness is 15 cm, is a light and non-combustible material that has unique characteristics. Remarkably, before laying, the plates should be treated with a solution of iron sulfate,
Mineral wool slabs - expanded polystyrene, polyurethane foam, polystyrene and other synthetic materials that are able to retain constant heat indoors.

Attention! The material that is used for interior and exterior wall cladding has practically no effect on thermal insulation characteristics. The point is only in the aesthetic considerations of the builder or designer.

Thermal insulation with foam

So, answering the question - the better to insulate the bath, let's start, perhaps, with foam. In order to understand what are its distinctive features, let's look at all the main advantages and disadvantages of this material.

Let's start with the pros:

light weight material,
Possibility of using adhesive mounting method,
Excellent resistance to moisture
A double layer of foam, laid in two layers with an offset and sheathed with any facing material on the outside, will be an excellent protection against blowing.

Attention! If we talk about the shortcomings, then the foam is not resistant to mechanical damage, combustible, and also requires preliminary preparation of the working surface before installation.

Thermal insulation of the bath with mineral wool

Scheme of insulation of a bath from expanded clay concrete blocks

Answering the question - what is the best way to insulate a bath, our attention involuntarily switches to mineral wool, which has long been popular with builders.

Consider its advantages:

fire resistant,
It tolerates moisture well and does not rot,
It is not only heat and sound insulating material,
It is supplied both in slabs and in rolls, which in turn allows the integration of these types with a double layer of laying.

Attention! The disadvantages of mineral wool include the need to use eye and lung protection (respirator and goggles). Also, the disadvantages include a large consumption of material, since it requires laying insulation (according to technology) in two layers.

We protect thermal insulation from steam

Vapor barrier - another step towards a warm and reliable bath

If you decide to insulate the bathhouse with your own hands, then before proceeding with the sheathing of the insulation, it is necessary to lay vapor barrier materials that will protect the insulation itself from the harmful effects of hot steam and warm air.

The following materials provide excellent vapor barrier:

A simple synthetic film - the price of the material is available to everyone and therefore this method of vapor barrier is the most budgetary. Despite the low cost, the film will ensure the tightness of a large surface without joints,
Glassine is another cheap insulator that is completely harmless. There is a drawback - it is significantly inferior to the same film in strength,
Aluminum foil - this material not only protects the insulation from steam, but also reflects the heat coming from the steam room back into the room,
Ruberoid - its use is undesirable, although not prohibited. Its major drawback is the unpleasant odor in the room when heated.

Attention! When arranging a vapor barrier, experts recommend combining materials. An excellent combination is aluminum foil and glassine.

Installation work - procedure

If everything is done correctly, thermal insulation will last more than a dozen years.

So, if we talk about the construction of a frame bath in general (from bricks or expanded clay concrete blocks for now, let's skip it), then it begins with the construction and pouring of the foundation. And already at this stage, you should worry about the thermal insulation of the floors.

As for the foundation itself, it should be sprinkled with slag or expanded clay chips. Further, logs and beams are laid out on top of the "pillow".

Insulation should be spread between the lags. Most often, builders choose mineral wool mats as a heater (see also the article “Basalt wool for a bath - characteristics and application features”).

If we talk about walls, then their insulation can be done simultaneously with installation. Layers of insulating material and a vapor barrier film are located inside the bath frame. The outer skin can be installed right there so that the thermal insulation is kept inside the structure.

In the event that you rely on a double layer of insulation, then you will almost completely eliminate the possibility of heat loss. Moreover, the first layer can be laid out of foam or mineral wool (slabs), and the second - from any rolled type of insulation.

Attention! Under no circumstances should air gaps be allowed between the heat-insulating layers.

Do not forget about wind protection and waterproofing - this stage of work is carried out immediately after the frame-panel structure is insulated.

Note! All installation work can be carried out both simultaneously around the entire perimeter, and in parts, dividing the bath area into separate sections. In the latter case, high-quality sealing of the seams and all joints should be made.

Wall insulated with expanded polystyrene boards

Well, now you know not only how and how to insulate the bath from the inside, but also how to insulate the dressing room. Let's hope that this article will really come in handy for you and will help in your work on insulation.

How to insulate a bath yourself - modern methods of thermal insulation
How to insulate a bathhouse and a dressing room is better from the outside: frame, made of expanded clay concrete blocks, do-it-yourself video installation instructions, photo and price

The technology of building a bath always depends on the wishes of the customer and his financial capabilities. You can, for example, save money on the foundation by building a frame building. Indeed, due to the lightness of the design, it is not necessary to spend money on an expensive high-strength base.

But it is not necessary to save on the insulation of this structure, because not only the quality of the functioning of the bath, but also its durability depends on the properly organized preservation of heat inside the room.

Before insulating a frame bath with your own hands, you need to consult with experts: they will help you choose the best insulator and the best way to insulate. And in order to have at least a minimal idea of \u200b\u200bwhat needs to be done and what kind of heat insulators exist, take some time to study the topic.

Varieties of thermal insulation for a frame bath

Since the building will be operated in elevated temperature conditions, when choosing an insulator, it is necessary to take into account its resistance to fire. The issue of toxicity is also very important, because many building materials lose their properties or begin to release harmful toxins as soon as the ambient temperature rises above a certain range. This is especially important to consider when choosing a heat insulator for the interior of the sauna.

Today, the list of popular materials for thermal insulation of a steam room includes:

reed slabs (fifteen centimeter thick) - an excellent option for a completely non-combustible and lightweight heat insulator (before installation, the plates are treated with a solution based on iron sulphate),
a mixture of sawdust of a good degree of drying and gypsum (as an option, cement) - the ratio of ingredients is ten to one,
synthetic insulation (polystyrene and varieties such as polystyrene foam and polyurethane foam).

Helpful hint! When choosing how to insulate a frame bath, you don’t have to worry about such a careful selection of materials for wall cladding. After all, the latter play only an aesthetic role.

Styrofoam as the best insulation

To understand how to insulate a frame bath in your particular case, you need to learn about the advantages of each of the heaters. Expanded polystyrene has such advantages as:

the ability to mount building materials with glue,
lightness,
moisture resistance,
thermal conductivity is minimal.

Helpful hint! To prevent blowing through the walls, the foam plates are laid in two layers (in this case, the joints must be displaced).

The material also has disadvantages. The main ones are brittleness and flammability. In addition, for high-quality thermal insulation, it is necessary to prepare surfaces to a perfectly even state.

Mineral wool in the insulation of the steam room frame

Considering the advantages of mineral wool in the thermal insulation process, it is necessary to note such aspects as:

high level of resistance to decay,
versatility (the heat insulator has additional noise-insulating properties),
high degree of fire safety,
ease of installation (the ability to choose products in two packaging forms - rolls and plates).

But before you decide to insulate the frame bath with mineral wool, you need to find out its negative qualities.
If we talk about the shortcomings - this is an increased danger when working with insulation. However, this disadvantage is easily eliminated by the use of respiratory masks and overalls. Another feature of mineral wool is the need for a two-layer insulation method, which means additional waste.

Vapor barrier insulation: what you need to know

Filling the cells of this type of construction with a heat-insulating layer, you need to take care of the vapor barrier of the insulation sheets. After all, the operation of a bath facility is associated with the harmful effects of warm air and hot vapors.

Considering high-efficiency vapor barriers, the following should be highlighted:

aluminum foil with heat reflective properties,
cost-effective synthetic film that allows you to perfectly seal surfaces without joints,
harmless glassine (also a budget option, but the film is stronger),
less popular due to the smell of roofing material emitted at high temperatures.

Helpful hint! The ideal option is a combination of two types of vapor barrier. Most often it is glassine with foil.

Stages of thermal insulation

To insulate the frame bath as efficiently as possible, you need to start doing this even at the stage of laying the foundation. To do this, the base of the house is covered with slag or expanded clay crumbs and covered with logs or beams. After that, it is necessary to spread the heat-insulating sheets between the lags.

The walls of a steam room of this type of construction are insulated at the time of their construction. To do this, layers of heat insulators protected from steam are mounted inside the frame. To keep them inside the wall, at this stage, the outer skin is carried out.

The outer side of the insulated layer is protected by waterproofing and wind protection. The next step is cladding.

Helpful hint! If you decide to insulate the frame bath with your own hands, be sure to enlist the support of specialists. After all, it is much better to correct random errors in stages than to correct them at the end of the process.

What insulation is better for a frame bath
How to insulate a frame bath - recommendations for choosing a heat-insulating material and the stages of work on thermal insulation of a bath. Photo, video

Frame structures must be insulated. This issue becomes especially important when it comes to a frame bath.

Under the influence of moisture and high temperatures, frame structures can quickly become unusable. That is why the insulation and vapor barrier of such a structure must be approached with the utmost responsibility. High-quality warming of a frame bath is a guarantee of its comfort, safety and profitability.

Choosing an insulating material

Choosing the right thermal protection material is one of the important steps. Click on the photo to enlarge.

When choosing a heater for a frame bath, it is necessary to pay attention not only to the thermal insulation properties of the material, but also to its toxicity and resistance to fire.

Toxic and combustible heaters cannot be used for interior decoration of the bath.

From the variety of heaters presented today, the following options are suitable for a frame bath:

Reed slabs are light, non-combustible, have excellent thermal insulation characteristics. The thickness reaches up to 15 cm, the length may vary, depending on the manufacturer. Before laying, it is recommended to impregnate such a plate with a solution of iron sulfate.
A mixture of sawdust and gypsum - in a ratio of 10: 1, such a mixture will become a very budgetary and at the same time reliable insulation. It is possible to use cement in the same proportions instead of gypsum. It is important that the sawdust for the mixture is well dried.
Plates of synthetic materials - polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam and similar heaters. They are quite cheap, easy to install and process, can be used in any room.

Wall cladding material will not have much effect on the insulation of the frame bath. It is chosen more based on individual preferences. Most often, lining or chipboard is used for sheathing.

Vapor barrier and insulation

Thinking about how to insulate a frame bath, do not forget also about vapor barrier. It will help protect the walls from exposure to high temperatures and humidity. As materials for vapor barrier are used:

synthetic film. It is the simplest and cheapest way to install a vapor barrier. The film has 100% tightness, is easy to install and makes it possible to cover the surface of a large area without joints.

Glassine is a cheap, absolutely harmless material. However, it is not popular due to its low strength.

Aluminum foil - it, among other things, creates the effect of a thermos, reflecting heat into the room.

Ruberoid - popular because of the low price and good thermal insulation properties. However, this material is inconvenient during installation due to its weight. In addition, when heated, the roofing material emits an unpleasant chemical odor.

The best option for a frame bath would be a vapor barrier using a combination of several materials, such as foil and glassine.

The quality of the insulation and paoinsulation of the frame bath is affected by the accuracy of the installation of insulating materials. If unsealed joints remain between the vapor barrier strips, moisture will enter the insulation and onto the walls, which will provoke the process of decay.

Under the influence of moisture and high temperatures, frame structures can quickly become unusable.

Before installing the inner layer of wall upholstery, it is necessary to carefully insulate all seams and joints. To do this, it is better to use mounting foam, for small gaps - silicone sealant.

Vapor barrier in a frame bath is mounted not only on the walls, but also on the floor and ceiling. This is important because hot steam will rise up and settle on the ceiling.

It is also important to equip the bath with good ventilation and do not forget to regularly ventilate the room after use.

Vapor barrier not only protects the walls from moisture, but also makes it impossible for air to pass through them, so additional ventilation is necessary.

How to insulate a frame bath - installation procedure

The construction of a frame bath begins with the foundation. Thermal insulation of the floor is already done at this stage. The foundation is sprinkled with expanded clay chips or slag, beams and logs are laid on top, between which a layer of insulation is mounted.

Most often, mineral mats are used to insulate the floor, but you can choose any other insulation, at your discretion.

The thermal insulation of the walls of the frame bath is carried out directly in the process of their installation, after the installation of the frame. Layers of insulation and vapor barrier materials are placed inside the wall, the outer skin will hold them in place.

It is possible to insulate a frame bath separately in each section or immediately over the entire surface of the wall. It doesn't really matter. The main thing when installing in sections is to carefully isolate all seams and joints.

How to properly install insulation

Heaters are laid in two layers. The best option would be when the first layer is mounted from a material in the form of plates, and the second - from a roll-type material.

Vapor barrier materials are fixed on the walls from the side of the room, between the insulation layer and the outer skin layer.

The layers must be installed in such a way as to prevent an air gap between them. The denser the layers are adjacent to each other, the higher their efficiency will be. When installing, pay attention to the features of the materials.

For many slabs of synthetic insulation, it matters which side to the inner surface of the room they are laid. Information about this is usually indicated on the packaging of the insulation. Be sure to check this question when buying.

What to do with a sauna stove

One of the best refractory screens is thermal tiles. Click on the photo to enlarge.

In this section of the room, it is possible to use asbestos plates as a heater, they are resistant to fires.

The thickness of the insulation on the walls is selected depending on the climatic conditions of your region and the procedure for using the bath.

As a rule, frame baths are usually placed in dachas, that is, their use in the winter is not expected.

In order to ensure a comfortable temperature in the bath, during the period of use from May to September, a layer of insulation on the walls of 5 cm will be enough.

If the bath provides for a steam room, the insulation layer in it should be thicker than in other rooms.

Bath roof

After the walls are insulated, the roof of the bath is erected, the ceiling is installed and its heat and vapor barrier is installed. Roof insulation should have four layers:

External cladding.
A layer of vapor barrier material.
layer of insulating material.
Boardwalk.

The thickness of the insulation for the ceiling must be greater than for the walls. Usually the insulation layer on the ceiling is 10-15 centimeters.

Insulation of a frame bath does not include thermal insulation of windows and doors. This is a separate type of work, a separate task, which is solved in a special way.

In general, with properly installed heat and vapor barrier, a frame bath is in no way inferior to a log bath in terms of its characteristics and ease of use. It will warm up quickly, retain heat reliably and serve you for many years.

Frame bath insulation technology
Insulation of a frame bath: selection of heat-shielding materials, vapor barrier, installation procedure for insulation, stove and roof.

wall insulation technology

After reading a lot of information and consulting with familiar builders, I decided to dwell on the following version of the warming "pie":

1 layer - insulation
2 layer - foil for vapor barrier
3 layer - lining for sheathing

Selection and fixing of the insulating layer

As an insulating material, I immediately dismissed the foam and glass wool, as I am not completely sure of their safety. When heated, they emit volatile substances and hardly anyone wants to turn their own bath into an analogue of a gas chamber. I considered several other options and settled on 60 mm thick stone wool (basalt wool). It is recommended to use it for steam rooms, in addition, it is not combustible, so that's it!

To fix the insulation, I used wooden bars 80x80 mm, which I screwed vertically to the walls in 60 cm increments. Stone wool slabs are easily laid between them. They do not fall out of the crate, since the distance between the bars is slightly less than the standard width of the insulation.

Vapor barrier layer

The role of the vapor barrier layer in the insulating sheathing is played by foil (plain aluminum or kraft paper). It is necessary to protect the insulation and the inner surface of the bath wall from moisture. Bath attendants are well aware that when heating a cold bath, condensation always forms on the walls. If it gets on the insulation, then the fungus, unpleasant smell and other "charms" of a damp room are provided to you.

Naturally, the insulation in this situation will not last long and eventually rot. And with it, the walls of the frame will also deteriorate, which is completely unfun. If, however, a foil is laid as a vapor barrier layer, then the resulting condensate will flow down it, and will not fall on the insulation and walls.

Additional fixation of the foil with slats will provide a tighter fit to the insulation

The thicker the foil, the better it will perform its functions, so I advise using a material with a thickness of 80-100 microns. The foil is attached to the bars with a stapler. For additional fixation of the foil, I also used thin wooden slats, which I fixed on the sides of the bars.

The biggest challenge in laying foil is to create a continuous vapor barrier without open seams. Therefore, all joints are carefully glued with a special foil tape; ordinary adhesive tape is not suitable for this.

Clapboard wall cladding

It is important to note that a ventilation gap of 1-2 cm should remain between the foil and the lining. Why? Everything is very simple: it will allow the condensate accumulated on the foil to dry out, and not be absorbed into the lining. This ventilation gap is provided by the width of the bars, between which the insulation was laid and which will later serve to secure the lining.

A gap of 1-2 cm will allow the condensate to dry out between the heating of the bath

In the steam room, I fixed the lining horizontally, since this position allows the water that falls on the walls to flow down without falling into the joints. There is another advantage of horizontal laying: if over time the lower boards begin to rot (rot always starts from the bottom, since there is higher humidity and lower temperature), then they can be easily replaced. With a vertical arrangement of the lining, this number will not work and the entire lining will have to be replaced.

The lining is attached to the vertical bars with self-tapping screws. The lining should not be painted over with any modern impregnations and coatings, otherwise you will have to breathe chemical fumes. I heard that it is not bad to paint over the lining with hot natural drying oil, supposedly this creates a water-repellent film inside the pores of the tree, but does not seal the pores themselves. However, in any case, my personal opinion remains that it is not necessary to cover the walls of the steam room with anything - the tree in the bath should get wet and then dry well and then no rotting is scary.

Features of ceiling insulation

Insulation of the ceiling of the bath is carried out exactly according to the same principle as the insulation of the walls. The only difference is that the insulation layer for the ceiling should be 2 times thicker. This is due to the fact that the main part of the heat during the kindling of the bath always rises up and leaves through the ceiling. If you pay special attention to the insulation of the ceiling, then this heat will not go anywhere, respectively, the bath will heat up more in a shorter period of time.

On the ceiling it is necessary to lay insulation in two layers

After a layer of foil, the ceiling is sheathed with wooden clapboard

That's all the wisdom of warming the bath. Of course, I do not think that this option is the ultimate truth, perhaps you will come up with a better insulating design for the walls and ceiling of the bath. However, what I offer has been working well on my site for more than a year!

Vapor barrier and insulation of walls and ceiling of a frame bath with basalt wool
Personal experience of warming and vapor barrier of a frame bath using basalt wool and foil. Useful tips and a description of the difficulties you will face.

Everyone knows that the floor in the bath should be moisture resistant, not subject to decay and warm, but only builders have an idea how to make high-quality insulation of this part of the structure so that the surface meets the other requirements of this room. This is especially true of the frame bath. We will tell you how to make such a floor with your own hands. By following our instructions and the video process exactly, you will get a comfortable floor that dries quickly between treatments, is strong and durable.

Installation lag

As a rule, a frame bath is built on a columnar foundation or piles. To connect the supporting elements of the base into one whole, a wooden or metal grillage is used. For a bath on piles, grillages made of steel channels or I-beams are more suitable.

First of all, the installation of the floor in the bath begins with the construction of its frame, that is, laying the log. If you decide to build a bathhouse on piles with a metal grillage, then on top of it you need to fix a wooden beam with a section of 150x50 mm. It is easier to attach lags to it. The device of the floor of a frame bath on a columnar foundation begins with the laying of a wooden grillage of beams with a section of 150x50 mm. Logs are not only attached to it, it is also the basis for the walls.

Depending on the dimensions of the bath, intermediate beams in a wooden frame may be needed for laying the log. In addition, under the intermediate beams and long logs, you will need to arrange additional support pillars. They can be made from bricks. Logs are attached to a wooden grillage and intermediate beams with a step of 40 cm.

Important: all wooden structures are treated with antiseptics and fire retardants. Logs under the steam room and washing room are best made from moisture-resistant larch wood.

Bath floor design

After the logs are installed, you can begin to build the floor of the frame bath. If you decide to build a bath with your own hands, please note that the constructive floor cake should include the following layers:

subfloor made of oriented strand boards 0.6 cm thick;
waterproofing and wind protection coating (we will use Izospan "A", but other materials can be chosen);
a layer of thermal insulation (for floor insulation we use ecowool, you can take mineral wool);
a protective layer of 1.8 cm thick oriented strand board;
for effective insulation of the floor of the frame bath, the cake contains two layers of insulation (now for this purpose we will use extruded polystyrene foam 50 mm thick);
then follows a layer of vapor barrier (Izospan "D");
after that, a reinforcing fiberglass mesh is laid;
then the floor heating system is installed;
cement-sand screed with reinforcement;
ceramic tiles laid on a special adhesive.

If you build a frame bath on piles or a columnar foundation with your own hands, you should take a closer look at the features of each layer of the constructive floor cake.

Tip: keep in mind that it is necessary to insulate not only the floor of the frame bath, but also its walls, as well as the ceilings.

floor construction

It doesn’t matter which frame bath you will build, on piles or a columnar foundation, the floor insulation procedure takes place in the same sequence. Before proceeding with the construction of the floor, it is worth installing the frame walls of the bath. It is not worth insulating the walls yet, but it is better to install a moisture and wind barrier. The subfloor device takes place in the following sequence:

We nail a moisture-resistant OSB 0.6 cm thick to the lower surface of the lag. Small holes should be drilled in the slab under the washing room and steam room for ventilation. Don't forget to cut a hole for the drain pipe under the washroom. As a result, you will get a design that resembles the letter "Sh".
The next stage in the construction of the floor of the frame bath with your own hands will be the laying of Izospan waterproofing. It will also act as a windscreen. We lay the waterproofing on top of the logs so that it sags into the gaps between them and evenly covers the OSB filing. The joints of the waterproofing film are glued with adhesive tape. The waterproofing is fixed to the logs by stuffing wooden slats with a section of 50x30 mm on top of them.
If you plan to make a stove in the bath, then install a supply air vent in the place of its intended location in the floor between the lags. For these purposes, you can use a steel pipe or an old ventilation duct.
When the waterproofing is laid, you can insulate the floor of the bath with your own hands. We make it with the help of ecowool, laying the plates between the lags. The surface of the heat-insulating material must be on the same level with the upper edge of the lag. At the stage of laying the insulation, do not forget to lay the drain pipe in the washing room.

Tip: if there are recesses under the walls of the structure, then the insulation must be brought there as well. However, it is difficult to lay ecowool slabs there, so soft Rockwool insulation can be laid under the walls.

Further, on top of the lag, the floor is sewn up with moisture-resistant oriented strand boards. At the same time, it is important to ensure that the docking of the plates falls on the logs. To fix the OSB between the lags and the bottom strapping under the walls, it is worth attaching wooden bars. We lay OSB with a gap between adjacent sheets of 0.2-0.3 cm. We fasten them to the logs with self-tapping screws.
When the waterproofing and the first layer of insulation are laid, you can make the second layer of insulation with your own hands. To do this, we lay sheets of extruded polystyrene foam 5 cm thick in a run. In the place where the furnace will be installed, laying heat-insulating material is not needed.
We make waterproofing of the drain hole in the floor. To do this, we attach the Izospan "D" film around the drain on double-sided tape. We carry out the waterproofing device using a sealant, which is poured between the film and the pipe.
In the floor of the bath on piles and a columnar foundation, a vapor barrier layer must be provided. Its device can be made using the Izospan "D" vapor barrier film. To do this, we attach it to the sheets of polystyrene foam using a stapler. We lay the film with an overlap of 50 mm, glue the joints with adhesive tape. To prevent rotting of the lower trim, we put the film on the walls to a height of 100-150 mm and connect it with the vapor barrier material of the walls.

Underfloor heating device

The best option for warming the floor of the bath on piles or a columnar foundation would be a heated structure. This will help the evaporation of moisture from the floor after taking the procedures, the quick drying of the surface and provide additional protection against fungus and mold. If you plan to do the work yourself, then it is better to install a warm floor using factory electrical systems. Such a floor should be made in the steam room, rest room and washing room.

We work in the following order:

To facilitate the laying of electrical heating systems, a fiberglass reinforcing mesh with a mesh size of 50x50 mm is laid on the vapor barrier material. We lay the grid with a slight overlap and tie it together.
We lay out the electric cable for heating on the floor with a “snail” or “snake”. We fix it to the grid.
Then we install the floor heating sensor into the wall.
We connect and connect all components of the system.
After checking the correct operation of the device, you can start pouring the screed.

Floor screed in the bath

We make a screed from a cement-sand mortar or a ready-made dry building mixture. Fiber fibers or building reinforcing mesh can be used as reinforcement. The height of the screed is 3.0 cm. In the rest room and the steam room, we make the screed without a slope, and in the washing room we perform a floor slope of 10 degrees towards the drain hole. We work in the following order:

After laying out the reinforcing mesh on the floor, we install guide beacons (profiles for drywall). We put them on mortar piles and set them according to the level.
We prepare a solution. We add plasticizers and fiber to the traditional cement-sand mixture.
We lay the screed on the floor and level it according to the beacons as a rule.
The next day, we remove the beacons, and fill the voids with mortar. We rub the surface.
Sprinkle the screed with water for the first week and cover with a film to protect it from cracking.
After the screed has completely hardened, it can be primed and ceramic tiles can be laid. For laying the floor covering, we use a special moisture-resistant adhesive.

Frame structures require insulation, especially when it comes to buildings such as a bathhouse with a steam room or a sauna. Since their direct functional purpose includes maintaining a high temperature for a long time, the design features must also meet these requirements.

Careful warming of a bath or sauna eliminates heat loss in the room, helps to maintain a high temperature for a long time.

Based on practical observations, insulated structures heat up and warm up faster, and cool down more slowly. On these parameters, there is a financial saving on fuel, which pays for the costs of the work performed on the organization of vapor barrier and insulation.

Properly executed waterproofing prevents the increased negative impact of moisture on wood and the frame bath will remain in its original state for a long time.

Insulation of a frame bath begins with a vapor barrier

Material for waterproofing should be selected with a high threshold of resistance to high temperatures. These materials include:

Metal foil - creates the effect of a thermos, combines the functions of a heater and a reflector, does not let water through.

Roofing material - has a low cost, but due to its large weight it is inconvenient to install. It is good as an addition to insulation, but when heated, it emits an unpleasant smell of melted resin.
Parchment is harmless, does not emit odors, but has low strength. During installation, it often breaks, which cannot but affect the quality of the waterproofing.
Polyethylene film is the most common and inexpensive way to protect against moisture. With large dimensions, light weight, flexible structure, which greatly facilitates installation when covering large areas.
Foil - does not let water through. Adds additional points to the coefficient of insulation, creates the effect of a thermos.

With the combination of several types of waterproofing materials and the absence of joints, high-quality vapor barrier and protection against premature decay of wood are obtained when the frame bath is insulated. To solder the resulting seams, heat-resistant silicone sealants are used.

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The choice of insulation for the frame bath

When choosing heaters, one should focus on their behavior when exposed to high temperature and high humidity, and not on thermal insulation characteristics. This is due to the fact that when the bath or steam room is heated, substances harmful to health will be released.

The following materials are currently on the market:

Synthetic materials - slabs of foam, polyurethane foam or expanded polystyrene. Plates or rolled version of mineral wool or ecowool. All options are lightweight, which can not but facilitate their installation.
Reed plates - have good characteristics as heat insulators, fireproof and lightweight. Dimensions and thickness vary by manufacturer.
Sawdust mixed with gypsum, cement or clay - the proportions for all options are the same - 10 to 1. A very inexpensive option, but should be used with caution and not in all parts of the bath.

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Installation of the insulation layer is carried out according to the following scheme:

a vapor barrier layer is laid on the ceiling boards;
insulation is laid with a thickness of at least 15 cm;
on the logs, the outer skin of the boards is laid over the insulation.

If foam or similar insulation is used in one layer, then the joints must be foamed with mounting foam. When laying insulation in several rows, it is necessary to ensure that the seams of the layers do not match. When using a sawdust mixture, it must be evenly distributed over the entire surface of the ceiling, filling all existing cavities.

What to do with the stove when insulating a frame bath. Between the furnace and the wall it is necessary to lay out an additional brick refractory screen. This measure will protect the insulation and finish from heat and possible damage. On this section of the wall, asbestos slabs will be the best insulation. As a finish, you can use gypsum products that can be glued with heat-resistant glue or mortar.

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Insulation of the floor of the frame bath

This is the most important and costly stage in the process of warming the bath. In those parts of the bath where washing is not provided, you can do only with expanded clay, insulation and a double layer of waterproofing. But this is not a very suitable option, because situations are different. Open access to water and the lack of stacks, even in such rooms, can lead to premature decay of the wooden parts of the floor.

The best option is to add a concrete screed to this structure over the waterproofing and arrange a slope for the water stack on it. In dry bath rooms, a frame is built over a concrete screed, and then boards are laid. In direct wash rooms, floor tiles and rubber bath mats can be laid on the concrete screed.

It is also possible to organize a wooden floor, but the boards are laid with small gaps so that the water passes unhindered to the stack and does not linger on the surface. For convenience when walking on the floor, one-piece or cellular rubber mats are laid.