Installation of a metal stove in a bathhouse. Protection and insulation of bathhouse walls from the heat of the stove - rules for installing protective screens and casings How to enclose a stove in a sauna

Proper installation of a stove in a bathhouse requires laying out its main elements at the stage of planning and designing the steam room of the bathhouse. It is very difficult to build a full-fledged brick stove with a heater in any other way, and the result does not always meet expectations. Another thing is installing a metal stove in a bathhouse. This stove design is lighter and simpler; it can be installed in almost any steam room.

Does it make sense to install a metal stove?

It's no secret that the vast majority of home baths are heated with metal wood-burning or electric ovens. Professionally made stove good quality lined with a brick screen has a number of advantages over traditional way construction:

• This design in a bathhouse is installed faster, easier, and most importantly - much cheaper. In addition, for a small-sized steel box there are many more options how to install the stove so that it is comfortable to use at any time of the year;
• To install a stove, you do not need to dismantle half of the bathhouse and spend a lot of money on rebuilding the floor and ceiling;
• The sealed steel or cast iron shell of the stove makes using the sauna much safer, since the possibility of poisoning is practically eliminated carbon monoxide due to a cracked firebox wall.

For your information! According to statistics, two thirds of fires in private households occur in bathhouses with wood stoves made of stone.

Installing a stove in a bathhouse with your own hands is no more difficult than any other heating system. Even if there is no experience, but there is a desire, most of the work can be done, guided by the recommendations and instructions of the manufacturer. You can install a homemade wood-burning stove in a bathhouse in the same way, but only on condition that the firebox and all the main components have passed the fire test and have been heated in a full cycle at least 20 times.

Where and how to install a metal stove in a bathhouse

There are no particular problems in installing a stove with your own hands; it is enough to ensure that several conditions are met during installation:

• Provide maximum fire protection and precautions;
• Create optimal conditions for normal combustion of firewood in any weather and wind direction;
• Provide availability supply and exhaust ventilation, guaranteeing protection against the most dangerous enemy in the bathhouse - carbon monoxide;
• Install the stove so that the heat generated is used in the sauna in the most efficient way.

Advice! Before looking for a way to install a stove, you will need to solve two problems. ?First, find optimal location chimney for the stove. Design chimney can greatly affect the operation of the furnace itself and its efficiency. Besides, steel chimney heats up to a very high temperature and often causes a fire in the bathhouse. Secondly, it is necessary to determine how it is most convenient to service the stove, where it is most convenient to install it, and, accordingly, come up with lining the steel body with a brick screen.

The bodies of steel and cast iron sauna stoves tend to heat up to a very high temperature, at which the concentration of air oxygen in the steam room atmosphere quickly drops. Therefore, it is imperative to install a screen around any metal firebox, preferably a brick one. Moreover, ordinary red brick, unlike metal screens, always plays the role of a heat accumulator; this solution allows you to level out the heat output and not have to run to the firebox every five minutes to load firewood, which is not very convenient, especially if the loading opening is facing the street or in the utility room of the bathhouse.

The most rational solution would be to install the stove in the wall of the steam room so that the body with the screen and the heater are inside the steam room of the bath, and the “face” with the doors combustion chamber and the ash pan opened into the dressing room or onto the street.

The last option is very convenient for summer country baths, especially if the design of the bath is combined with summer kitchen or a terrace.

Selection of base for installing the furnace

After you have previously selected a place in the bathhouse where it is most convenient to install and maintain the stove, you need to make a small estimate of the weight of the future stove and determine the type of base or foundation for the building.

Existing SNiP standards set a limit on the weight of the structure; a stove with a heat-insulating layer, foundation, brick screen and chimney can be installed directly on reinforced wooden joists provided that the total weight does not exceed 750 kg. The weight of the future sauna stove must be checked by calculation.

The weight of the steel or cast iron furnace body can be taken from the product passport. Typical steel structure a stove with a remote firebox and a mesh for stones weighs about one hundred kilograms. A cast iron stove for a bath, like the one shown in the photo, weighs about 200 kg.

In addition, on steel and cast iron versions of the furnace it is supposed to install up to 100 kg of stones to produce steam. As a result, the total weight of the stove structure for a bathhouse can easily reach 300 kg.

The chimney pipe is made of thin sheet steel; its weight together with the hot water tank rarely exceeds 30 kg.

The weight of a brick screen depends on its size. To lay half a brick on 1m2 of surface, you will need to use 53 pieces of solid single brick. Accordingly for the screen with total area 2 m2 will be consumed 106 pieces. With one stone weighing 3.5 kg, the mass of the screen is 321 kg. In total, the total weight of the stove that is supposed to be installed in the bathhouse is 550-650 kg. This is less than the ceiling of 750 kg, but even with such a mass it is not always possible to install the stove on logs.

First of all, it is necessary to check the cross-sectional size of the joists and the method of their installation. To install a sauna stove weighing 650 kg on the floor, you will need to distribute the load across at least two beams with a cross-section of 70x100 mm. Otherwise, you will have to make a real foundation.

How to install a stove in a bathhouse according to science

After completing the calculations and selecting a location for the stove, the further installation procedure will include the following operations:

• Preparing the base area for the stove in the bathhouse;
• Arrangement of an opening in the wall, thermal insulation of the body and fire protection of the walls;
• At the final stage, you will need to install the chimney pipe.

Experts advise making a full-fledged foundation for the stove in two cases, if the construction of the bathhouse is not completed at the time of installation, and it is technically possible to painlessly cast the foundation. In the second case, the stove can be installed on the floor of the bathhouse if the safety margin is at least 1.5 units.

Construction of a base for installing a furnace

The easiest way is to install the housing on a wooden bath floor. The vast majority of steel and cast iron sauna stoves have special supports that raise the firebox body above the floor level. To ensure the stability of the stove, a durable heat-protective cake will need to be installed in the base of the structure. First of all hammered nails and floorboards we find the location of the joists in the bathhouse.

Next, we mark the site relative to the joist beams so that it is possible to install the stove with an even distribution of the load on the supports. Using an electric planer, we remove 3-4 mm of the surface of the floorboard to remove the protective coating and make it as rough as possible. We impregnate the wood with an antiseptic and fire retardant, which increases the wood’s resistance to high temperatures.

At the next stage, the area on the floor must be covered with white clay, cement and liquid glass. Without waiting for the applied mixture to harden, we lay a thick sheet of metal on top of the coating. Next, a layer of mineral thermal insulation and a layer of brick are laid. For the bond, use ordinary masonry mortar for fireplaces from a ready-made cement-sand mixture. You can install a sauna stove.

To install a full-fledged foundation, you will need to remove the boards and dig a pit for casting a base of brick and concrete. We make a hole for the foundation in the form of a square, with a side 10-15 cm larger than the maximum size of the oven with a screen. We dig a pit to a depth of 50-60 cm. Next, we pour and tamp a sand cushion at least 150 mm high, and cover it with a layer of rubble stone with crushed stone. Before pouring concrete, it is necessary to waterproof the walls and pits from roofing material. Fill the last layer in the form concrete slab 20 cm thick, of which at least 15 cm must be above ground level.

A couple of hours after pouring, it is necessary to walk along the horizontal surface of the foundation in order to level the supporting plane with the horizon.

Installation of the stove body and chimney pipe

The place where it is planned to install the furnace body must be coordinated with the direction and location of the chimney pipes. An opening 30 cm larger than the dimensions of the firebox and ash pan is cut out in the wall of the bathhouse using a hammer drill or electric saw. The surface of the wall, located at a short distance from the furnace body, will need to be covered with mineral bulk thermal insulation and a sheet of metal installed. The remaining surface adjacent to the body is finished with heat-resistant tiles, as in the diagram.

If the walls of the bathhouse are made of timber, then the adjoining area will need to be laid out with red brick on cement masonry mortar, without clay, and only after that the thermal protective tiles will need to be glued.

The stove can be installed and secured to the base using spring loops screwed to the anchors.

A layer of thermal insulation must be laid at the base of the flood area and steel sheet 2-3 mm thick. The dimensions of the sheet must exceed the dimensions of the firebox by 30 cm in each direction.

Ideally, the first section of the chimney should be made without turns or bends. The first one and a half meters of pipe length are made of heat-resistant stainless steel. Since it gets very hot, all fastenings to the walls will need to be made of a sliding type, so that the expanding pipe does not tear off the fastenings. It is advisable to install a housing with gaskets made of heat-insulating material, and cover the chimney itself with a protective casing.

The rest of the chimney can be manufactured and installed using sandwich technology with basalt wool insulation.

The most convenient would be a remote chimney design, which can be installed on almost any wall of the bathhouse, even on a surface lined with wooden clapboard. But for this you will need to specifically select the configuration and location of the stove in the bathhouse. A hole is punched in the wall and a special steel adapter with thermal insulation around the perimeter of the device is punched.

To lead the chimney through the roof, mounting windows are marked and cut out along a plumb line in the ceiling and in the roof, as in the photo.

After installing the adapters, the space between the pipe is covered with sheet asbestos and filled mineral wool. On the roof of the bathhouse, the chimney pipe is covered with a protective metal cover, which is attached to the sheathing through a layer of heat-resistant rubber.

Conclusion

In general, installing a stove in a bathhouse takes two to three working days, but it is recommended to postpone the test for at least a week so that all masonry materials of the foundation and brick screen are required level strength. It is recommended that the first launches of a stove with a heater mesh filled with stones be carried out no earlier than two weeks later, when the foundation gives the first necessary settlement.

What is the best way to decorate the wall behind the wood stove in a sauna? Welded metal stove, metal 4mm thick. From the stove to the wall about 20-25cm. The best way to finish the wall is to prevent the lining from charring and catching fire. Are soapstone or coil slabs suitable? And is it possible to glue them directly to the lining?

You're right. For the safe operation of a metal stove, the distance you specified (20-25cm) to the wooden surface of the wall is not enough. Metal stoves are characterized by active thermal radiation, at peak moments the firebox becomes red from heating. A wooden wall surface or ceiling partition, when heated to 100 °C, is guaranteed to ignite. This is especially true for wood in a steam room, where it is constantly dried until minimum values humidity.

One of ideal options for a metal stove in a bathhouse is shown in the photo. The oven is partially covered with brick on three sides, which allows for additional heat accumulation. There is also a screen made of fireproof material installed on the wall. This can be a layer of basalt cardboard or cotton wool, with a galvanized sheet on top of it.

Double wall protection

It is better to connect the heat-insulating material of the screen with “grooves”.

Combining thermal insulation joints

Soapstone is excellent decorative material. It is most often used for lining stoves and fireplaces, and sometimes even for laying stoves. Its main advantages in our case become disadvantages. This material perfectly accumulates and transfers heat, as evidenced by the heating of the surface on which it is installed. Therefore, if your choice fell on this stone, we can offer to replace part of the wall (or flammable internal lining) brick. It can even be decorative. And in this area it is already possible to lay soapstone tiles on heat-resistant adhesive for lining stoves and fireplaces.

The same recommendations apply to products made from coils. If done well, this protection option will not only look harmonious and be the highlight of the sauna, but will also provide you with almost 100% fire safety.

Option with soapstone

Have an easy and safe steam!

• How to decorate the wall behind the stove in a sauna: cladding options

  
  What material is best to use for finishing the wall behind the wood-burning stove in the sauna, so that the lining does not char and catch fire. Facing sauna stove and walls

Protecting walls in a bathhouse from stove heat: how to properly make a protective screen or casing

When you heat the bathhouse for procedures, the surface of the oven can heat up to 300-400 degrees. In the process, it emits infrared rays and itself becomes a source of heating. The radiated heat is distributed throughout the steam room, but first it touches the walls, which are located near the wall. If the walls in your steam room are made of wood, then due to the high temperature they will begin to char. And this can cause fire and fire. Despite how they advertise different means to protect the tree and other options for eliminating this problem, the most effective method isolation was and remains the arrangement of a protective screen and casing made of non-flammable materials.

In what situations is wall protection needed?

There are situations when protecting the walls near the stove is not necessary. For example, if between the stove and the closest surface there is a safe distance from the point of view of fire regulations. This distance should be enough to disperse the infrared rays so that they weaken and do not damage the wall.

fire safe distance from a metal stove to the walls of the bathhouse

The safe distance from the wall is:

• to a brick stove (with ¼ brick masonry) - no less than 0.32 m;
• to a non-lined metal furnace - at least 1 m.
• to a metal furnace lined inside with brick or fireclay - no less than 0.7 m.

Such a safe, fire-safe distance can generally only be organized in steam rooms with impressive parameters. In smaller steam rooms family type, when there is a need to save every centimeter, installing a stove at such a distance is not a justifiable luxury. Therefore, for such small steam rooms, it is better to use screens or special cladding to protect the walls.

Protective screen around the oven.

Shields are insulating shields that cover the sides of the oven and reduce the intensity of heat rays.

Screens can be made of brick or metal. They are mainly used for metal stoves.

Option No. 1 – metal screen. The most commonly used protective screen is made of steel or cast iron sheets,

which is bought ready-made. It is mounted around the stove at a distance of 1-5 cm from the walls of the firebox. There are side and front screens, choose depending on which side of the stove you need to cover. Manufacturers often make furnaces already equipped with a screen - a casing.

The protective screen makes it possible to reduce the temperature external surfaces stove to 80-100 degrees, thereby reducing the safe distance to 50 cm. As a result, the distance from the firebox to the wall, including an installation gap of 1-5 cm, will be 51-55 cm. Installing a protective screen is not difficult, it is usually equipped legs that simply need to be bolted to the floor.

Option No. 2 – protective screen made of brick.

With such a screen you can cover all the side parts of the stove, thus making an outer lining for it. As a result, the stove will stand in a brick casing.

Or you can simply separate the oven and the fire-hazardous surface with such a screen.

The material for the screen used as wall protection is solid fireclay brick. For the binder, take a solution made of cement or clay. Craftsmen advise making masonry in half a brick (12 cm thick). But if you don’t have enough material, you can make a screen in ¼ brick (6 cm), but this will lead to a reduction in the thermal insulation performance of the protective wall by half. And then you need to take such changes into account when calculating the safe distance.

bathhouse wall protection - brick screen

When laying, you need to leave small holes in the lower part (sometimes with fire doors). They will serve to create air exchange in the space between the stove and the screen.

The height of the brick screen should exceed the height of the stove by at least 20 cm. There are cases when the protective screen is laid out up to the ceiling.

Such a screen is not made close to the stove - you need to leave 5-15 cm. So that the walls are protected reliably optimal distance between the screen and the wall should be from 5 to 15 cm. Using a protective brick screen, you can reduce the distance from the stove to the wall to 22-42 cm. (stove + gap 5-15 cm + brick -12 cm + gap 5-15 cm. + wall),

Non-combustible wall cladding for protection.

Any wall that is adjacent to a hot stove is not immune to spontaneous combustion. To prevent overheating of the walls, it is recommended to use special sheathing, which consists of heat-insulating and non-combustible materials.

Construction of a bathhouse

Sheathing, which includes non-combustible thermal insulation and metal sheets, have proven themselves to be excellent. So you need to attach it to a wooden surface thermal insulation material, and on top of it is a sheet of stainless steel.

To increase the effectiveness of such cladding, you need to polish the metal sheet well. The specularity of the surface will improve the reflection of heat rays from the wood and naturally prevent its heating. Another advantage is that, by redirecting hard IR rays back into the steam room, stainless metal makes them softer and people perceive them more easily.

reflective wall cladding

You can install the following thermal insulation material under a sheet of metal:

• Basalt wool - it has high thermal insulation and increased hygroscopicity. It is safe even in extreme conditions steam room, and it doesn’t burn.
• Basalt cardboard is basalt fiber in the form of thin sheets. Fireproof, sound and heat insulating material.
• Asbestos cardboard is a fire-resistant heat-insulating material in sheets. It is characterized by excellent strength, durability and the ability to protect surfaces prone to fire from ignition.
• Minerite is a non-flammable slab that is made specifically for creating screens near stoves, fireplaces and other surfaces in a bathhouse or sauna that can easily catch fire.

The following cladding scheme is popular:

Wall – ventilation gap 2-3cm. – insulation 1-2 cm. – metal sheet. The safe distance from the stove to the wall will be at least 38 cm.

Ceramic bushings are used to secure the sheathing to the wall. They do not heat up and additionally serve to create a ventilation gap between the wall and the layer of heat-insulating material.

If you were unable to install the stove at a safe distance, then you need to cover it with two layers of heat-insulating material. In this option, the sheets are secured through bushings, maintaining a gap of 2-3 cm, and the top sheet is covered with a metal sheet.

Russian bath project

Reflective cladding is an excellent protection for wood walls from heat and fire, but it may not always look beautiful or appropriate in a steam room. If you have a steam room with a certain design or decor, you can disguise such cladding with heat-resistant tiles. To lay such tiles you need to use heat-resistant adhesive.

Wall protection near the stove with lining can be made of the following materials:

• Terracotta tiles are made from fired clay and have excellent strength, heat resistance and service life. Terracotta can be matte or glazed, with shades ranging from pastel yellow to brick red.
• Clinker tiles are clay tiles similar to facing bricks. Its structure is denser than that of terracotta. The color may be your favorite, even white or black, or something completely unusual for tiles - blue or green.
• Tiles are a type of ceramic tile. A characteristic feature is embossing in the form of a pattern or ornament on the front part.
• Porcelain tiles are tiles of increased strength and heat resistance. Different way front side processing forms different surface. Porcelain tiles can imitate stone, brick or wood. The color palette includes natural shades, from white to black.
• Soapstone is a natural mountain stone of gray or green hue. Distinctive features: fire resistance, water resistance, strength.

protective cladding with cladding

Using fire resistant tiles to cover a wall will not provide thermal insulation. The walls will heat up anyway. The tile serves only one component in this design:

Wall – ventilation gap 2-3 cm. – fire-resistant material in sheets – tiles. The distance from the stove to the tiles should be at least 15-20 cm.

Refractory material can be:

• Fire-resistant drywall (GKLO) is a drywall containing fiberglass. It does not deform under the influence of heat.
• Minerite is a non-flammable cement-fiber board. In addition, it is moisture resistant and not subject to rotting or decomposition.
• Glass-magnesium sheet (GML) is a slab material that contains fiberglass and magnesium binder. This material is famous for its heat and sound insulation properties, and its resistance to temperature changes and the influence of water.

If the wall protection is carried out in compliance with all the rules and the organization of a ventilation gap, then such cladding will have a low heat absorption rate, and the wall will hardly heat up. In addition, using tiles for cladding will mask the protective layer well, and you will not spoil the style and design of the steam room.

Protecting walls in a bathhouse from stove heat: how to properly make a protective screen or casing

Protecting the walls of the bathhouse from the heat of the stove: rules for constructing protective screens and casings

During the heating of the bath, the surface of the stove heats up to 300-400°C. At the same time, it begins to emit infrared rays and itself becomes a source of heating. The coming heat is distributed throughout the steam room, but first of all it hits the walls adjacent to the stove. If the walls are wooden, then under the influence of high temperatures their charring begins. And there it’s already a stone’s throw away! The only one for real effective method insulation of wooden walls from heat - creation in a bathhouse protective screens and sheathing made of non-combustible materials.

When is protection needed at all?

The need to install protective casings and screens does not always arise. If a fire-safe distance is maintained between the stove and the nearest flammable surface, additional protection is not needed. At this distance, the IR rays are scattered, weakened, and the amount of them that the wooden wall receives can no longer lead to damage.

It is believed that the safe distance from the wall to brick oven(quarter brick laying) is at least 0.32 m, from the wall to a metal stove (not lined) - at least 1 m. For a metal stove lined from the inside with brick or fireclay, the distance is reduced to 0.7 m.

Therefore, maintaining fire distances is more possible in large baths, where the issue of saving space is not relevant. In family steam rooms, where every centimeter of space counts, installing a stove 0.3-1 m from the nearest walls is impractical. In this case, the safety distances established by the standards must be reduced using screens and casings.

Protective screens near (around) the stove

Protective screens are insulation shields that cover the side surfaces of the furnace and reduce the intensity thermal radiation. Screens can be metal or brick. As a rule, they are used for metal furnaces.

Method #1 - metal screens

The most common protective screens are factory-made steel or cast iron sheets. They are installed around the stove, at a distance of 1-5 cm from the walls of the firebox. Depending on the need to insulate one side or another of the furnace, you can purchase side or front (front) screens. Many metal furnaces are initially manufactured with protective screens in the form protective casing.

Protective screens make it possible to reduce the temperature of external metal surfaces to 80-100°C and, accordingly, reduce the fireproof distance to 50 cm. The total distance from the firebox to the wall (including a gap of 1-5 cm) will be 51-55 cm.

Installing protective screens is not difficult. Thanks to the presence of legs, metal panels are easily bolted to the floor.

Method #2 - brick screens

A brick screen can cover all the side surfaces of a metal furnace, representing its outer cladding. Then the stove will be in a casing made of brickwork. In another case, a brick screen is a wall separating the stove and the flammable surface.

To lay the protective screen, solid fireclay bricks are used. The binder is cement or clay mortar. It is recommended to use half a brick (thickness 120 mm). But, if there is a lack of material, it is possible to make a wall of a quarter of a brick (60 mm thick), although in this case the thermal insulation properties of the screen will be reduced by half.

Small openings (sometimes with fire doors) are left at the bottom of the shield for air convection between brick wall and a stove.

The brick walls of the screen must end at least 20 cm above the top surface of the oven. Sometimes the masonry goes all the way to the ceiling.

The brick screen is not installed flush against the walls of the stove, the optimal distance is 5-15 cm. The acceptable distance from the brickwork to the flammable wall is 5-15 cm. Thus, the use of a brick screen allows you to reduce the distance from the stove to wooden wall up to 22-42 cm (stove - ventilation gap 5-15 cm - brick 12 cm - ventilation gap 5-15 cm - wall).

Protective non-combustible wall coverings

Walls adjacent to the hot furnace walls are susceptible to spontaneous combustion. To prevent their overheating, special casings consisting of heat-insulating and non-combustible materials are used.

Option #1 - reflective trim

Sheathing consisting of a combination of non-combustible insulation and metal sheets is effective. In this case, thermal insulation is attached to the wooden surface, which is covered with a stainless steel sheet on top. Some use galvanizing for these purposes, but, according to some data, when heated, it can release harmful substances. It’s better not to risk it and buy a stainless steel sheet.

For greater efficiency, the metal sheet of the screen must be well polished. The mirror surface helps to reflect heat rays from the wooden surface and, accordingly, prevents its heating. In addition, a stainless steel sheet, directing IR rays back into the steam room, transforms hard radiation into softer radiation, better perceived by humans.

The following can be fixed under stainless steel as thermal insulation:

• Basalt wool - it has high thermal insulation properties and is absolutely safe when used in a bathhouse. It has increased hygroscopicity and does not burn.
• Basalt cardboard – thin sheets basalt fiber. Used as a fireproof, sound and heat insulating material.
• Asbestos cardboard is a sheet fire-resistant heat insulator. It has high strength and durability, protects flammable surfaces from ignition.
• Minerite is a non-flammable sheet (plate) specially manufactured for shielding stoves, fireplaces, and easily flammable surfaces in baths and saunas.

A popular example of cladding using a metal sheet is this “pie”: wall – ventilation gap (2-3 cm) – insulation (1-2 cm) – stainless steel sheet. The distance from the wooden wall to the stove is at least 38 cm (SNiP 41-01-2003).

Ceramic bushings are used to attach the sheathing to the wall. They do not heat up and allow the formation of ventilation gaps between the thermal insulation and the wall.

If the distance between wooden wall and the stove is minimal, then the cladding is made of two layers of fire-resistant insulation, for example, mineralite. In this case, the sheets are fixed through ceramic bushings, maintaining a gap of 2-3 cm. The top sheet is covered with stainless steel.

Option #2 - sheathing with cladding

Of course, protective cladding with stainless steel perfectly protects wooden walls from heat and fire. But it can spoil the impression of the most expensive finish. Therefore, if the steam room is designed in a decorative style, the fire-resistant lining is masked with heat-resistant tiles. The tiles are laid on heat-resistant adhesive, for example, produced by Terracotta.

The best materials for cladding walls near the stove:

• Terracotta tiles are made from baked clay. It is characterized by strength, heat resistance, durability. Terracotta tiles can be matte or glazed (majolica), and the color varies from pastel yellow to brick red.
• Clinker tiles are also made of clay and look similar to facing bricks. Unlike terracotta, clinker tiles more dense. The color range covers almost all colors, ranging from white to black, including green and blue tones, unusual for clay.
• Tiles are a type of ceramic tile. Usually has on front surface embossing in the form of a design, ornament.
• Porcelain tiles – heat-resistant, durable tiles. Depending on the method of processing the front surface, tiles can imitate natural stone, brick, or wood. IN color scheme– all natural shades, from white to black.
• Soapstone is a rock of grayish or greenish color. It is fireproof, waterproof and durable.

Attaching fire-resistant tiles directly to walls will not have any thermal insulation effect. The wall will still heat up, which can lead to spontaneous combustion. Therefore, tiles are used only as an element of a protective “pie” following design: wall – ventilation gap (2-3 cm) – fireproof sheet material- tile. It is recommended to maintain a minimum distance of 15-20 cm from the tiles to the walls of the oven.

Any material from this list can be used as a fire-resistant element in the cladding:

• Fire-resistant drywall (GKLO) is drywall supplemented with fiberglass fibers. Resists thermal effects without structural deformation.
• Minerite is a cement-fiber board, absolutely non-flammable. Minerite slabs are moisture resistant, do not rot, and do not decompose.
• Glass-magnesium sheet (FMS) is a material in the form of plates made on the basis of magnesium binder and fiberglass. It has heat and sound insulating properties and is not destroyed by water and temperature changes.

The protective cladding, which must comply with the ventilation gap, has a very low heat absorption coefficient, so the wall underneath it practically does not heat up. In addition, the use of cladding allows you to disguise the protective “pie” and maintain the finishing of the steam room in the same style.

Protecting the walls of the bathhouse from the heat of the stove: installing protective sheathing and screens

How to decorate a stove in a bathhouse

Metal stoves have gained great popularity among home bath owners in recent years. The reason for this was the ease and speed of installation and affordable pricing. However, they have a number of disadvantages, ranging from unpresentable appearance and ending with the likelihood of a fire. The finishing of the stove in the bathhouse is carried out to reduce negative factors.

During operation, the temperature of the metal furnace in the bath reaches about 400 0. Metal heated to such a temperature can cause a fire in nearby wooden structures. In order to fire safety There are permissible distances established by SNiP from a metal heating source to the wall. In the absence of protective screens, the distance should be at least 1 meter.

In large rooms, maintaining such a distance is not difficult. But if the question concerns a small home bath, every centimeter of space is important.

For decreasing permissible distance carry out a number of measures:

• install protective screens around the stove itself;
• sheathe sections of walls located in close proximity to the source of ignition.

Metal screens

Installation of steel sheets allows you to reduce the fire hazard distance. From the wooden surface to the steel screen it is enough to maintain 50 cm.

Protective screens made of metal can be either factory-made or welded independently. During installation, it is necessary to create a ventilation gap between the heating part of the stove and the metal screen. The presence of a ventilation duct helps heat the casing to 100 0 . Factory screens are equipped with legs and fasteners; using them, installing the sheets will not be difficult.

Brick screens

There are two options for installing a brick screen:

• a brick partition is erected only between the wooden wall of the bathhouse and the metal stove;
• The oven is covered with brick walls on all sides.

It is enough to leave a distance of 10-15 cm between the wooden wall and the brick screen.

Covering walls with heat-reflecting screens

Reflective cladding is a heat-insulating material covered with a stainless steel sheet on top. This option allows you to reduce the distance from protective coating before work surface ovens up to 38 cm.

Non-flammable, durable materials with low thermal conductivity:

• basalt wool(basalt canvas, basalt slabs, basalt cardboard), sometimes called stone wool. Made from rock(basalt), it is environmentally pure material. It does not emit harmful compounds when heated, withstands temperatures up to 600 0 without collapsing or losing its properties. It has good water-repellent ability, does not absorb moisture at all and does not cause corrosion of adjacent materials;
• mineralite slabs- the main component in them is cement. Capable of withstanding temperatures of 600 0, however working temperature, at which the properties do not change, is 150 0. Absorbs and releases moisture well. Minerite is harmless to respiratory tract when heated;

• asbestos boards or asbestos cardboard. Some consider it a carcinogenic material that is harmful to health, but this has not been scientifically proven. Asbestos dust can cause harm to the body if inhaled. Covered with a metal sheet on top, asbestos has proven itself to be a good thermal insulation material;
• expanded vermeculite slabs do not contain asbestos and are made of mountain mica. Have a small specific gravity, high mechanical strength. Such slabs can be coated with a layer of plaster and covered with ceramic tiles.

The heat-insulating layer is covered with a stainless steel sheet on top. In some cases, galvanized iron is used, but it is “transparent” to IR rays. The polished surface of the steel is able to reflect heat rays, directing them back into the bathhouse.

Metal sheets are mounted on ceramic mounts that are not subject to strong heat. For free circulation of air flows, preventing heating of the wooden wall, it is necessary to provide a ventilation gap. To do this, a ventilation gap is provided between the heat-insulating layer and the wall. The screen is mounted, leaving a distance above the floor and above the ceiling.

Sheathing followed by cladding

You can ensure an aesthetically presentable appearance of the bathhouse by decorating the heat-insulating layer with fire-resistant tiles, the installation of which must be done with heat-resistant glue.

To ensure high thermal insulation protection fireproof materials are mounted on the wooden surface from the heat of the stove, which can be used as:

• glass magnetic sheets resistant to high temperatures and high humidity environment. They are characterized by high elasticity and mechanical strength. When heated, they do not emit toxic substances;
• expanded vermiculite sheets;
• mineralite slabs.

Facing types: tiles

The following types of tiles have proven themselves well for cladding thermal insulation areas:

• Terracotta tiles. Eco-friendly unglazed tiles made from colored clay without mechanical impurities through long-term firing in ovens. It has increased heat resistance and does not emit harmful substances or specific odors when heated. During operation it does not lose its original color. It has color palette from gray to beige. It has textured options for wood and stone. Capable long time keep warm.
• Clinker tiles made from shale clay. It is fired at a temperature of about 1200 0 in one cycle. Does not cause harm to health during the heating process. Such tiles are durable, have increased resistance to abrasion and color loss. The palette of produced colors ranges from black to white.

• Porcelain tiles. Finishing material artificial origin made of clay, quartz sand and kaolin. Withstands wet environments well and high temperatures, is not destroyed by “thermal shock”. Has a long service life. Manufacturers produce glazed, matte, polished porcelain tiles, structured to resemble leather, wood, and stone.
• Soapstone tiles. Natural material of mountain origin, more often - gray, but is found interspersed with brown, cherry, yellow and green shades. Withstands repeated heating and high humidity, accumulates and releases heat well.

Installation of a brick casing around a metal plate

The brick casing for shielding the furnace has significant weight, and a prerequisite for its installation is the presence of a foundation.

Foundation structure

If the brickwork around a metal stove is made in a bathhouse that has already been built, the floor covering will have to be dismantled.

The size of the concrete base is calculated by adding the size of the brickwork 20 cm + ventilation gap 10 cm + horizontal dimensions of the metal furnace.

Installation begins by selecting a layer of soil. The depth depends on the degree of soil freezing and is about 60 cm.

In case of close proximity groundwater Geotextiles or roofing felt, well coated with bitumen mastic, are laid on the bottom and sides of the pit.

A sand cushion is installed on the base of the resulting pit. The sand is laid wet and compacted thoroughly. A layer of gravel or crushed stone is poured on top and compacted.

Add another layer of sand 15 cm thick.

• assemble a reinforcing grid from reinforcement or metal rods, with a cell size of 10*10;
• poured concrete mortar, not reaching the edges of the pit by 10 cm;
• after this, the concrete needs time to “mature” for three weeks;
• Several layers of roofing material are laid on top of the concrete base and a heat-resistant slab is installed;
• lay a continuous row of bricks, which should not protrude beyond the boundaries of the refractory sheet; voids in the masonry are also unacceptable. Excess solution is immediately removed;
• the second row is laid similarly to the first, but with offset seams;
• observance of the horizontal plane is considered a mandatory condition.

Preparation of mortar for masonry

You can purchase a ready-made solution in a store or use a sand-clay mixture. To determine the best ratio of sand and clay, make a small batch from which a cylinder or bar is formed. Pay attention to possible appearance cracks, the absence of which is an indicator of quality.

It is preferable to use clay used for masonry from deep layers, without earthen and mechanical impurities.

To give the clay the required consistency and plasticity, it is kept in water for several days, after which it is ground through a sieve to remove debris.

A 1:1 proportion of clay and sand is considered good; liquid is added to it in small portions.

A high-quality mixture does not stick to the trowel and does not drip from it. When running a trowel over the solution, the mark left behind should not blur or have a torn structure.

To improve the quality of the masonry, add rock salt at the rate of 0.1 kg per bucket of finished mortar. It is also good to add cement and fireclay powder.

Technological process of furnace lining

The laying of a protective casing around a metal plate is carried out:

• red solid brick, which has a high degree of heat resistance and a long service life;
• fireclay brick, which has the same characteristics, but a higher cost;

• ceramic refractory brick: it has all the positive properties solid brick, but at the same time it has a more aesthetic appearance and can be used as a facing brick.

In some cases, masonry is carried out with hollow bricks, but it must be taken into account that it has worse heat retention characteristics.

It is advisable to soak the brick before starting work. Dry brick is able to quickly absorb the liquid fraction through capillaries and does not allow the binding part of the solution to penetrate inside to increase the adhesion of the masonry. In the summer, this method is not difficult.

If the construction process takes place in the autumn-spring period, in cold, damp weather, dry the wet brick in finished product quite problematic. Heating for drying means dealing a blow to the strength even before the stove starts operating: uneven heating will destroy the seams. It is also impossible to leave the stove undried over the winter; the cold will tear the masonry under the influence of negative temperatures. In this case, make a more liquid solution and slightly wet the surface of the brick.

If there is insufficient construction experience, for the convenience of maintaining a horizontal plane, stretch a cord or fishing line around the perimeter of the masonry. Inconvenience this method consists in the need to raise the fishing line with each row.

You can pay 30-50% less for light, depending on what electrical appliances you use.

Finishing a stove in a bathhouse - how and with what material to finish a stove in a bathhouse