Wood lathe chucks by hand. Homemade wood lathe: work process. Manufacturing of the bed, headstock, tailstock, and caliper. Possible cutting mechanism options
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One of the most common devices for processing metal workpieces is lathe. It can be used to make elements such as bushings, couplings, bolts, nuts, flanges and others. The equipment can be purchased ready-made in specialized stores, but it is possible to make a homemade metal lathe at home.
Features of the machines
There are many types of lathes for metal processing. Each of them has its own design features on which their functionality. In addition, each type has the ability to perform additional operations, such as milling or drilling.
Regardless of the type of unit, their design may consist of the following components:
Depending on the type and model of the device, it can be equipped with additional attachments that will increase the functionality of the equipment.
Types of universal devices
Modern manufacturers offer users an extensive range of lathes. Among the most popular, the following types can be distinguished: turning-screw-cutting, turning-milling, turning-carousel, turning-turret.
Screw cutting machine
A special feature of this type of equipment is the presence of a tailstock quill stroke. Thanks to this, it is possible to equip it with a drilling chuck. This allows the machine to be used not only for turning operations, but also for turning workpieces with different profiles, leveling, making grooves and recesses in workpieces, cutting sizes to the required specifications, and drilling holes. For this, dies, cutters or taps can be used.
By using screw-cutting turning units, you can work with workpieces made of ferrous or non-ferrous metals. This type of device is most often used in tool production, instrument making or watchmaking.
If the choice fell on a screw lathe, it is recommended to take into account the following properties:
Milling device
Using this type of equipment, you can turn workpieces not only from ferrous and non-ferrous metals, but also from plastic and wood. The design of the device combines two types of machines (milling and turning).
A universal turning and milling machine can be used to perform such types of operations as continuous turning, thread cutting, chamfering, fillet cutting, cutting straight and curved grooves, and drilling holes. This became possible thanks to the presence of a milling part located in vertical plane beds. Such machines are often installed in school workshops.
The popularity of turning and milling equipment is due to the presence of its inherent advantages:
- Availability. The combination of two types of machines leads to cost savings.
- Compact size. It can be installed in a workshop with a small area.
- Possibility of mounting a variety of additional elements (cutter, drill, tap, reamer, cutter, chisel).
When choosing this type of equipment, it is necessary to take into account the following characteristics:
- distance between centers;
- workpiece size;
- diameter of crosscut and end mills.
The presence of these qualities determines the popularity of turning and milling equipment among users.
Carousel machine
Machines of this type are mainly used for processing large diameter(more than 2000 mm) and sizes in large enterprises.
Revolving unit
The main purpose of this type of device is to process workpieces made from calibrated rods. The peculiarity of the machines is that the cutting mechanism is mounted on a rotating drum.
Machine tools with numerical software
When working with this type of machine, minimal operator participation is required. It is also worth noting the ability to perform all types of operations with high precision.
Each of the above types of metal lathes has design features and purpose.
Self-production
If we talk about what you can make from a drill with your own hands, you should pay attention to a lathe, which you can make at home. This will not only help save money, but will also make it possible to perform a fairly large list of operations with different materials.
In order to make a metal lathe with your own hands, drawings of which can be found in specialized literature, you must first decide on the bed. It is considered one of the most significant pieces of equipment. It is on the bed that the turning attachment for the drill is mounted.
To make the frame, you can use a slab made of a material such as wood, up to 21 mm thick. The drill is fixed by the neck of its body, on which the auxiliary handle will subsequently be mounted.
In order to be able to saw materials such as plywood or hardboard, you need to install a drill chuck on the frame circular saw, the diameter of which does not exceed 2 mm. To ensure ease of operation of the machine, you can also mount an additional handle.
It is possible to replace the disk with a flat cutter. Thanks to this, the operator will be able to make grooves of shallow depth.
Now you can start making the stop, which is designed to serve as the tailstock. Thus, homemade caliper for a lathe with your own hands, you can make it from two wooden blocks and one screw for adjustment with a sharpened tip. This will make it possible to use the machine for processing small wooden workpieces.
If we talk about how to make a lathe from a drill, you should take into account that there are several options for devices that you can make yourself, the main thing is to have a ready-made template.
The caliper tends to wear out during operation of the machine. At the same time, the possibility of backlash cannot be excluded, which will have a negative impact on the quality of the operation performed. To avoid this situation, it is recommended to periodically adjust and tune the caliper.
Woodworking carpentry machine has a frame. To make it, you can use beams or channels made of metal. Their thickness and dimensions are directly dependent on the load with which the equipment will be operated.
Shafts with guides located longitudinally are mounted on the beams. To attach them you can use welding machine, bolts or screwdriver.
The headstock can be made of a hydraulic cylinder, into the cavity of which two bearings are mounted. The thickness of the cylinder walls can vary from 5 mm or more. The hydraulic cylinder cavity is filled with a special lubricant. Then the electric drive is installed.
The electric motor is responsible for the movement of the cutting part of the machine. Engine power has a direct relationship to the power of the device. When choosing it, it is necessary to take into account the size of the workpieces, which will be processed on the wall:
- to work with small workpieces, you can use a drive with a power of no more than 1 kW;
- if it is necessary to process large-sized workpieces, it is necessary to choose a motor whose power ranges from 1.5 to 2.5 kW.
A manual machine for processing metal or wood should be assembled taking into account the fact that all its components must be insulated. This will ensure operator safety when working with the machine, as well as structural strength.
Possible cutting mechanism options
The machine mechanism must be equipped with a cutting part. There are several variants of this node. Among the most reliable are the following:
The correct choice of equipment will provide the ability to perform an extensive list of operations when processing workpieces, increase the accuracy of the work, and also reduce the time it takes to complete it. And making your own lathe for metal processing will help reduce the funds needed to purchase ready-made equipment.
All photos from the article
There are many versions of lathes that can be used. They can be very tiny, in which a conventional electric drill is used as a motor, and quite powerful with large power plants and equipment elements.
In our case, we will use materials, the main ones of which can be found in the garage or basement, and the missing ones can be easily purchased at construction market or in the store.
In the photo - a 3 in 1 wood lathe
Most of us will most likely doubt our abilities and will not even try to repeat what was proposed. At the same time, everything written below will not pose any particular difficulties for those who have ever worked with wood. None special methods or techniques you won’t see here, everything is as simple and accessible as possible.
Materials and equipment
Before you learn how to make a wood lathe yourself, you need to prepare for work.
In this case you will need:
- plywood 18 mm thick, from which basically all parts will be made;
- 50 mm thick boards for making the headstock;
- timber with a section of 50x50 mm for the frame.
Equipment you should prepare:
- The electric motor is 220V or 380V, depending on what voltage is suitable for your workshop.
- Pulley - it is better to take a 3-way pulley, with which you can adjust the optimal processing speed. It is advisable to purchase a joint pair.
- V-belt.
- Drill chuck - used as the main holder on the headstock. This is peculiar homemade cartridge for wood lathe.
- An electrical box with a switch and protection against unauthorized operation.
- Wood screws of various sizes.
- Bolts, washers, butterfly nuts and T-nuts.
- Plastic protective cover.
- Steel plate.
- Mounting rail for moving the tailstock along the frame - if the price does not suit you, you can replace it with an aluminum cornice.
- Screw rod – regulates the reliability of fixing the workpiece in the centers of the machine.
- The union nut is a stopper on the headstock.
- Metal loops – allow for optimal belt tension on the pulleys thanks to the console.
- Retaining rings are used to hold bearings in their seats.
Below is suggested step-by-step instruction process.
Manufacturing of the bed
The element has important functional significance and is a solid foundation for the remaining moving parts of our machine.
- The “bed” is made of 2 sheets of plywood, which are connected to each other using glue and self-tapping screws:
- the first has a size of 18x500x1200 mm;
- the second – 25x500x1200 mm.
- Measure two 1200 mm long sections on the timber and saw them off.
- Install on the “bed” with a pitch of 50 mm between each other.
- In each block in the middle, make grooves for guides 900 mm long for installing headstocks and install them.
Tip: instead of standard T-shaped guides, you can use used aluminum curtain rods, they work just as well.
Machine engine
In this step, everything will depend on what equipment you can buy or find in your home. We will use the engine from grinding machine, but it’s better if you can get a motor with a low speed of 1750 rpm.
Therefore, in our case, we will have to reduce the declared speed of 3000 rpm using sets of pulleys, for which it is better to use two sets - for the motor and the headstock of the machine.
It is enough to purchase 3-step pulleys that will help you set the speed from 700 rpm to more than 4000 rpm on the workpiece. Here's some sample data:
The platform for the engine will be plywood, which is attached to the main frame with hinges. Please note that each of them must be located 60 mm from the edge for secure fastening.
For easy access to starting and stopping the machine, install an on/off button on the front of the lathe. The connection is not difficult - you should insert it into the circuit between the engine and the 220/380 V network.
Headstock
The element transmits rotation to the workpiece from the engine and reliably holds equipment parts, so it must be powerful enough. Basically, the size of the headstock depends on the diameter of the pulley. It can be made from wood hardwood or using a sandwich from plywood sheets, which will be no less reliable.
In our version, we used 2 T-shaped blanks made of solid wood with a thickness of 150 mm and a height of 165 mm. They were connected to each other by a third workpiece of the tongue-and-groove type. The depth of the structure must correspond to the normal rotation of the largest pulley in diameter.
Tip: you can make 3 parts of the headstock from plywood.
Its mechanism consists of two mandrels with bearings and retaining rings. Each of them is screwed with self-tapping screws to the headstock on both sides.
Tailstock
To make it, take a ready-made sandwich from glued sheets of plywood.
T-shaped blanks have the following overall dimensions:
- width – 150 mm;
- height – 215 mm.
A hole should be made in the center at the top, which should be level with the headstock chuck. To securely fix the workpiece in the centers, a screw rod 180 mm long is used.
A lock nut is also used inside between the tailstock parts to limit the extension of the rod.
Now you can buy a lathe for wood and metal to suit every taste (and at any cost). Of course, many of the most modern and additional functions are added to the machine (which are most often not needed).
I don’t argue that a lathe is very necessary and useful thing for the workshop, but in 90% of cases it is not worth the money spent on it.
We want to help you save your finances. Why buy a model with many unnecessary functions, if you can make a standard simple model yourself?
Wood lathe materials
The design itself consists of the following parts (see picture)
- The bed is the basis for the machine, usually made of metal and consists of several connected beams.
- Transverse U-shaped beam.
- Electric motor – serves as a power source for correct movement around its axis (single-phase motors with a power of 200-400 Watt are suitable).
- Scroll chuck.
- Tailstock support.
- An element that rotates.
- Stop for a workpiece or tool.
- Support for the tool rest.
- Guide beams.
- Angle, post, or support for the tailstock.
- Clip.
- Metal plate for support.
- Cross guide detail.
- Screws for fastening.
- Support axis.
Wood lathe step by step instructions
First of all, you don’t have to buy a new motor, but take a used one; it will cost you much less. 
The elements are fixed to the base (No. 1 according to the figure) 2 U-shaped beams are connected by welding to two transverse ones (No. 2 according to the figure).
The guides on top are additionally fixed with two corners (No. 10 in the figure), which are secured to the main surface.
The engine (No. 3 in the figure) is attached to the side and the headstock is secured. 
It is worth using a rotating center as the basis of the tailstock (buy the part from purchased option) fasten it to the support (No. 5 according to the figure) and weld it on the platform (No. 12 according to the figure)
The stop (No. 5) is made from a corner and attached to the support (No. 8), which itself is fixed to the holder. The stop and holder are threaded onto the support axis (No. 15) and then welded to the guide beams. 
The same stop (No. 5) and the rotating element (No. 6) are fixed on metal plates (No. 12) that contain special moving clips (No. 11).
Please note that the stop and tailstock are moving elements that should move along the guides (No. 9) without any problems.
To ensure that the moving elements are well attached to the clips, preliminary holes are made in the clips (No. 14) and the slightest inaccuracy reduces the quality of operation of the entire device. 
The welding itself can lead to deformation of the material - first, all materials are held together by spot welding, and then the full work is carried out.
Wood lathe video
Metal lathe materials
To make such a tool you will need:
- Metal sheet;
- U - shaped metal beams;
- Steel strips;
- Steel corners;
- Electrical engine;
- Transmission mechanism;
- Several nuts and bolts for fastening;
- Bulgarian;
Separately, it is worth mentioning about the engine, it does not have to be new, you can limit yourself to an old or used one, its power should be 2 kW with a number of revolutions per minute within 2000. Although this depends more on the level of your work on this machine.
The more massive the workpieces, the more powerful the engine should be if you want to make a compact machine with low power– even a motor from a washing machine or electric drill will do.
As for the transmission mechanism, you can find it on the Internet or buy an old gearbox from friends and remove the clutch from the box. Thus, you will get a mechanism that creates several speeds for your machine. And if you install an additional pulley, you can improve the number of revolutions.
Metal lathe step by step instructions
Installation should begin with the use of steel angles and U-shaped beam, from them (1 corner and 1 beam) you need to weld a frame for the base.
To do this you need to wedge the base. Guides are assembled from square pipes and steel strips.
In addition to this their metal sheet They make a box for the fist chuck; after installation, adjustable bearings are placed in it.
The tailstock must be welded from a corner and a thick plate, the support of which will be the guides.
The headstock should move easily and freely along the guides. Weld nuts to the top of the headstock (to secure the supporting center).
The sharpened cone should be mounted into the beam, while maintaining maximum accuracy. Such a cone can be made from any bolt that suits your size.
After this, the entire structure is assembled, the spindle is checked for ease of rotation, and the front and rear centers are adjusted to create a level axis.
Now you know that building a machine for wood or metal is quite possible and requires little knowledge and effort from you, and at the same time it will cost you much less (and even if it breaks, you can fix it yourself).
In general, making such a machine will help you even if you do not often do such work; only such mechanisms are very bulky and you need a place to store them (or you can make “pocket” models).
Metal lathe video
Many home craftsmen are thinking about how to make their own metal lathe. This desire is explained by the fact that with the help of such a device, which will be very inexpensive, you can effectively perform a large range of turning operations, giving metal workpieces the required dimensions and shape. It would seem much easier to acquire the simplest table machine and use it in your workshop, but given the considerable cost of such equipment, it makes sense to spend time making it yourself.
A homemade lathe is quite possible
Using a lathe
A lathe, which was one of the first to appear in the line of equipment for processing parts made of different materials, including from metal, allows you to manufacture products various forms and sizes. With the help of such a unit you can turn external and internal surfaces workpieces, drill holes and bore them to the required size, cut external or internal threads, roll to give the surface of the product the desired relief.
A serial metal lathe is a large device, which is not so easy to operate, and its cost is very difficult to call affordable. It is not easy to use such a unit as desktop equipment, so it makes sense to do it yourself. Using such a mini-machine, you can quickly turn workpieces made not only of metal, but also of plastic and wood.
Such equipment processes parts that have round section: axles, tool handles, wheels, structural elements of furniture and products for any other purpose. In such devices, the workpiece is located in a horizontal plane, while it is given rotation, and the excess material is removed by a cutter securely fixed in the machine support.
Despite the simplicity of its design, such a unit requires clear coordination of the movements of all working parts in order for processing to be carried out with the utmost precision and the best quality of workmanship.
An example of a homemade lathe with drawings
Let's take a closer look at one of the working options for a lathe assembled on our own, quite high quality which he rightfully deserves close attention. The author of this homemade product did not even skimp on the drawings, according to which this device and was successfully produced.
Of course, not everyone needs such a thorough approach to business; often simpler structures are built for home needs, but as a donor for good ideas This machine fits perfectly.
Appearance machine Main components Caliper, tool holder and chuck
Side view of the tailstock Bottom view of the tailstock
Guide shafts Caliper design Engine drive
Drawing No. 1 Drawing No. 2 Drawing No. 3
Structural units
Any lathe, including a homemade one, consists of the following structural elements: a supporting frame - bed, two centers - driving and driven, two headstocks - front and rear, spindle, support, drive unit - electric motor.
All elements of the device are placed on the bed; it is the main load-bearing element of the lathe. The headstock is a stationary structural element on which the rotating spindle of the unit is located. In the front part of the frame there is a transmission mechanism of the machine, with the help of which its rotating elements are connected to the electric motor.
It is thanks to this transmission mechanism that the workpiece being processed receives rotation. The tailstock, unlike the front one, can move parallel to the direction of processing; it is used to fix the free end of the workpiece being processed.
A homemade metal lathe can be equipped with any electric motor, even if it is not of very high power, but such a motor can overheat when processing large-sized workpieces, which will lead to its stopping and, possibly, failure.
Typically, electric motors are installed on a homemade lathe, the power of which is in the range of 800–1500 W.
Even if such an electric motor has a small number of revolutions, the problem is solved by choosing an appropriate transmission mechanism. To transmit torque from such electric motors, belt drives are usually used; friction or chain mechanisms are very rarely used.
Mini-lathes, which are equipped in home workshops, may not even have such a transmission mechanism in their design: the rotating chuck of the unit is fixed directly on the electric motor shaft.
There is one important rule: both centers of the machine, driving and driven, must be located strictly on the same axis, which will avoid vibration of the workpiece during its processing. In addition, it is necessary to ensure reliable fixation of the part, which is especially important for frontal-type models: with one leading center. The issue of such fixation is resolved using a jaw chuck or faceplate.
In fact, you can make a lathe with your own hands using wooden frame, but, as a rule, metal profiles are used for these purposes. High rigidity of the lathe frame is required so that the accuracy of the location of the driving and driven centers is not affected by mechanical loads, and its tailstock and support with the tool move freely along the axis of the unit.
When assembling a metal lathe, it is important to ensure reliable fixation of all its elements, be sure to take into account the loads to which they will be subjected during operation. The dimensions of your mini-machine and what structural elements it will consist of will be influenced by the purpose of the equipment, as well as the size and shape of the workpieces that are planned to be processed on it. The power of the electric motor, which you will need to use as a drive, will depend on these parameters, as well as on the size of the planned load on the unit.
To equip metal lathes, it is not recommended to choose commutator electric motors that differ in one characteristic feature. The number of shaft revolutions of such electric motors, as well as the centrifugal force that the workpiece develops, increases sharply as the load decreases, which can lead to the part simply flying out of the chuck and can seriously injure the operator.
Such electric motors can be used if you plan to process small and light parts on your mini-machine. But even in this case, it is necessary to equip it with a gearbox that will prevent an uncontrolled increase in centrifugal force.
It has already been proven by practice and design calculations that for turning units on which metal workpieces up to 70 cm long and up to 10 cm in diameter will be processed, it is best to use asynchronous electric motors with a power of 800 W or more. Engines of this type are characterized by stable rotation speed when there is a load, and when it decreases, it does not increase uncontrollably.
If you are going to make your own mini-machine for performing metal turning, then you should definitely take into account the fact that its chuck will be affected not only by transverse but also longitudinal loads. Such loads, if a belt drive is not provided, can cause destruction of the electric motor bearings, which are not designed for them.
If it is not possible to use a belt drive, and the driving center of the device is directly connected to the electric motor shaft, then a number of measures can be taken to protect its bearings from destruction. A similar measure can be a stop that limits the longitudinal movement of the motor shaft, which can be used as a ball installed between the electric motor housing and the rear end of its shaft.
The tailstock of the lathe houses its driven center, which can be stationary or freely rotating. Most simple design has a fixed center: it is easy to make it on the basis of a regular bolt, sharpening and grinding the part that will come into contact with the workpiece to a cone. By screwing or unscrewing such a bolt, moving along a threaded hole in the tailstock, it will be possible to adjust the distance between the centers of the equipment, thereby ensuring reliable fixation of the workpiece. This fixation is also ensured by moving the tailstock itself.
In order for the workpiece to rotate freely in such a fixed center, the pointed part of the bolt that comes into contact with it will need to be lubricated machine oil before starting work.
Today it is not difficult to find drawings and photos of lathes from which you can independently make such equipment. Moreover, it is easy to find various videos, demonstrating the process of their manufacture. This could be a mini CNC machine or a very simple device, which, nevertheless, will give you the opportunity to quickly and with minimal labor input produce metal products of various configurations.
The stands of a simple metal lathe can be made of wood. They will need to be securely fastened to the unit frame using bolted connections. If possible, it is better to make the frame itself from metal corners or channels, which will provide it with high reliability, but if they are not at hand, you can also choose thick wooden blocks.
The video below shows the process self-made lathe support.