Technology for insulating a wooden house from the inside. Insulation of a wooden house from the outside. Selecting the right material

Despite the development modern technologies in construction, wooden houses are still often found in holiday villages, villages and villages. At the same time, one of the main issues when building such a house is proper organization of wall insulation.

Made with high quality, using the most the best materials, in accordance with regulations, thermal insulation helps maintain optimal temperature in the house in the summer, and with the onset of the long, harsh Russian winter.

As is known wood is extremely susceptible to mold development and service life wooden structure directly depends on the degree of preservation of structural elements. With the onset of winter and the first frosts, the heating season begins.

We strive to provide comfortable temperature indoors, and meanwhile the logs and wooden beams from which the walls are made are subjected to a real test. Warm on one side, they come into contact with cold outside air on the other., and the result of this is a constantly formed, condensation that is harmful to wood.

The main goals of thermal insulation are to reduce heat loss in winter and maintain important elements in good condition.

Conventionally, wall insulation can be divided into two types:

• walls wooden house;
• insulation of house walls.

There are many skeptics who condemn this or that method, but each of them has its own pros and cons. The choice of a certain insulation method is due to a number of reasons and factors, but with strict adherence to technology and proper execution of work, selection of appropriate materials, any of them turns out to be effective.

The main difference between these two methods of insulation is essentially that on which side of the load-bearing walls of a wooden house will the insulation be carried out?, and, as a result, how effective it will be in terms of heat conservation and benefits for the entire structure.

Owners and owners resort to insulation from the inside wooden houses, who do not want to close unique ones, beautiful facades buildings made in original ways masonry or facades of architectural value. Such insulation will not be noticeable from the outside, and the appearance of the building will not change.

External insulation

The purpose of external insulation is maximum efficiency . It involves the creation of an insulating structure on the outside of load-bearing wooden walls and is more aimed at extending the life of the building, preserving all its important elements made of wood, protecting them from the destructive forces of nature and surrounding weather conditions.

External wall insulation remains quite common, often used in construction and renovation. And this is confirmed by a number of advantages:

• all temperature fluctuations, all the vagaries of the weather are taken over by a layer of insulation and finishing, accordingly, the service life of the wooden elements of the house increases significantly;
• the opportunity to insulate a long-built house. Often such houses are purchased ready-made in holiday villages along with plots and it can be financially difficult to rebuild immediately new house.;
• the interior of the house remains untouched, which is convenient from the point of view of living and organizing everyday life;
• opportunity to choose new look Houses due to the finishing

Pie wall

In other words - composition and order of all insulation elements. When insulating a wooden house from the inside, the so-called “pie” can be represented as follows:

• bearing wall;
• sheathing;
• insulation - mineral wool;
• vapor barrier film;
• finishing layer.

wall pie

Which insulation to choose?

When choosing insulation for the walls of a house, first of all should be addressed attention to the ability of the material to pass steam and air while retaining heat.

The severity of the climate of the region of residence should also be taken into account.

Insulation materials include:

• inter-crown insulation, used at the construction stage;
• and insulation materials used for insulation from the outside or inside.

Inter-crown insulation is used in laying inter-crown joints. Such insulation can be synthetic or natural (from jute, moss, flax, hemp). The main property of these materials is low thermal conductivity and the ability to accumulate and release the resulting moisture. The most common today are insulation made from flax and jute fiber.

Basalt (mineral) wool is widely used to insulate walls from the outside or inside., or fiberglass wool in the form of rolls or mats, with a density of 80-120 kg/m3. In addition, it is an environmentally friendly material.

It is not recommended to use polystyrene foam or penoplex as an element of the pie., since these materials are vapor- and moisture-proof and prevent air exchange between the house and the outside environment.

The following materials may be suitable for insulation:

Mineral wool - best option insulation

Sealing seams and joints of forming elements

This method is internal wall insulation, aimed at sealing joints and cracks in logs. In this case, various sealants are used (silicone, latex, acrylic, linen rope, tow). This method is convenient because it can be easily done with your own hands and does not require special skills, it does not interfere with the release of steam and is the most economically profitable.

Technically it is carried out as follows:

• the edges of joints and cracks are cleaned,
• cavities are filled with rope, foam rubber;
• a layer of sealant is applied on top;
• the sealant is smoothed with a brush until a smooth surface is formed;
• Remains of sealant are removed with a rag.

Sealing with sealant

Sealing seams with fabric

Sheathing preparation and installation

When installing the sheathing, you should rely on the thickness of the insulation. The thickness of the bars will be chosen the same. Most often the timber is chosen 10-50 mm thick and 100 mm wide.

Mount the sheathing transversely to the masonry of logs with a step between the bars equal to the width thermal insulation mats with minus 3 centimeters for a tight fit. The height of the sheathing is individual for individual rooms.

Parallel to the laying of logs, the lathing is also installed in the same way (the so-called “counter-lattice”). To install the sheathing, you should choose quality material without traces of rotting. Before installation, all wooden parts and surfaces should be treated with an antiseptic.

NOTE!

Do not use thin boards for lathing, since it simultaneously serves as a place for attaching finishing coatings.

Lathing

Do-it-yourself insulation of walls from the inside of a wooden house

Insulation of walls inside a wooden house using mineral wool. When using this method, glass wool, slag fiber, or mineral fiber mats are used.

This material is the most effective in terms of thermal insulation and sound insulation, and is environmentally friendly. However, due to its structure, mineral wool allows steam to pass through and is capable of accumulating water.

For this reason, when using it in insulation, layers of hydro- and vapor insulation must be used.

Mineral wool is available to customers in the form of rolls and mats. When insulating, it is most convenient to use mats by simply inserting them between the profiles of the sheathing made. In this case, the gaps between the mats should be no more than 2 mm. Such gaps are subsequently sealed with adhesive tape - preferably foil, or plumber's tape.

Step-by-step installation:

• being prepared required quantity mineral wool mats, based on calculations of the square footage of the walls of the premises;
• mineral wool is tightly inserted between the sheathing beams;
• the top mats are trimmed to height;
• Gaps and seams between mats are taped with mounting tape.

Some builders use foam plastic when insulating walls indoors. However, the main criterion for choosing in its favor is its low cost. From the point of view of efficiency, polystyrene foam does not have the property of transmitting steam, and the result of its use in the absence proper organization steam and hydro-insulation, will become the so-called " Greenhouse effect"and the inevitable development of mold in rooms with such walls.

Laying mineral wool

Installation of insulation

Vapor barrier and waterproofing of walls

Insulation of wooden houses begins with waterproofing. This is the closest to load-bearing walls a layer of special film, main task which is to ensure air circulation and protection of the insulation layer from getting wet and freezing, preventing its destruction and preserving the tree from the development of mold bacteria.

Waterproofing is one of the the most important moments in wall insulation.

Waterproofing membrane

In the process of work, anti-condensation membranes, diffuse breathable films, polymer multilayer films, and vapor barrier membranes are used. When waterproofing, it is important to maintain complete tightness. To do this, the film is overlapped and nailed down using a stapler and staples, and the seams are sealed with mounting tape.

Vapor barrier is finishing coat, which is laid on top of mineral wool and serves to protect against the penetration of water vapor into the insulation structure.

The fastening is similar to the installation of waterproofing.

Vapor barrier

Conclusion

In this way, responsibly organized wall insulation timber house can play a big role in the long and reliable operation of a wooden house. It will help reduce heat loss and also protect load-bearing elements buildings from all kinds of weather conditions.

However, the preparation of such an event should be approached responsibly. The service life of your home depends on how well it is carried out.

Useful video

Tips for insulating a wooden house from the inside:

In contact with

If you are planning to insulate a wooden house from the inside yourself, I recommend that you read this article. We will consider in detail all the main nuances and subtleties of this procedure, which you are unlikely to be told about on other resources.

A few words about choosing insulation

First of all, home craftsmen are interested in how to insulate the walls of a wooden house from the inside, as well as the floor and ceiling. Choosing insulation for a wooden house requires a special approach, because one of the main advantages of such housing is vapor permeability and environmental friendliness. Accordingly, it is desirable to preserve these qualities.

Wood is known to be a flammable material. Therefore, it is desirable that the insulation be fireproof.

Taking these points into account, you can use the following materials to insulate your home:

• mineral wool;
• extruded polystyrene foam;
• ecowool.

Minvata

Mineral wool is the most common insulation material.

It is excellent for thermal insulation of wooden housing due to its following properties:

• good thermal insulation qualities - 0.032 - 0.048 W/mK;
• environmental friendliness;
• good vapor permeability;
• fire safety - mineral wool not only does not burn, but also resists the spread of fire;
• It is sold in the form of mats and rolls, making it convenient to work with mineral wool.

It should be noted that only basalt wool is environmentally friendly. In addition, it is the most heat-resistant. Therefore, use it to insulate a wooden house.

True, the price of basalt wool is slightly higher than stone wool and glass wool:

Brand	Cost per 1m3
Isoroc Izoruf-V	3990
TECHNOFAS L	3500
Ecover Light	1950
TECHNOFLOOR	4800

Another disadvantage of basalt wool is that it causes irritation to the skin, although to a lesser extent than, for example, glass wool. But, in any case, when working with it, it is advisable to protect your eyes and respiratory organs.

In general, in my opinion, basalt wool is the most optimal insulation for wooden walls.

Penoplex

Extruded polystyrene foam is a type of regular foam.

Thanks to a special manufacturing technology, it has more high performance than polystyrene foam:

• high strength - 0.2-0.5 MPa versus 0.07 MPa for foam plastic;
• thermal conductivity is lower than that of mineral wool - 0.028-0.034 W/mK;
• During the manufacturing process, manufacturers add fire retardants to extruded polystyrene foam, due to which the material corresponds to flammability class G1 (lowly flammable material). True, this applies only to insulation from well-known manufacturers;
• resistant to moisture, therefore does not require water vapor barrier during installation;
• does not cause skin irritation.

However, penoplex also has some disadvantages:

• vapor permeability is very low, so it is better not to use penoplex to insulate the walls of the house. At the same time, it will be a good solution for thermal insulation of the floor, as it is not afraid of moisture;
• high cost - penoplex today is one of the most expensive thermal insulation materials.

Below are the prices for some common brands of extruded polystyrene foam:

Ecowool

Ecowool is relatively new thermal insulation material, which has recently become increasingly popular.

Its advantages include the following points:

• environmental friendliness - the material is made on the basis of wood fibers;
• vapor permeability;
• thanks to the special additives contained in ecowool, the insulation is fireproof and also resistant to biological influences;
• has low thermal conductivity 0.031-0.040 W/m*K;
• low cost - from 1200 rubles. per cubic meter

It must be said that special equipment is required to insulate walls with ecowool. Therefore, when independent work You can only use this material to insulate the floor or ceiling.

Here are all the most common insulation materials that are used to insulate wooden houses. True, there are also materials that are applied in the form of foam, for example, polyurethane foam. However, you won’t be able to insulate them yourself, so we won’t consider them.

Insulation technology

The process of insulating a wooden house includes three main stages:

Floor insulation

To insulate the floor yourself, you will need the following materials:

• one of the insulation materials I described above;
• vapor barrier;
• slats and boards - will be needed if there is no subfloor between the joists;
• antiseptic impregnation for wood.

Instructions for floor insulation look like this:

1. if the floor has already been used, you need to dismantle the wooden flooring;
2. Next, you need to do a rough draft, unless, of course, it is missing. To do this, fasten the cranial bars from below to the rafters and lay boards on top of them;
3. Further All wooden elements treat the floors with an antiseptic to protect them from biological influences;

1. then a vapor barrier is laid over the rafters and subfloor. The membrane strips should overlap each other by 10 centimeters. Be sure to tape the joints.
   As I said above, if the floor is insulated with extruded polystyrene foam, a vapor barrier may not be used;

1. Next you need to lay thermal insulation. If mineral boards or penoplex are used for these purposes, place the insulation close to the joists. In addition, make sure that no gaps form between the insulation boards;

1. then you need to lay another layer of vapor barrier;
2. To complete the work, you need to lay the boards, securing them to the joists with nails or self-tapping screws.

It must be said that the thermal insulation of the attic floor is performed in exactly the same way, with the only difference being that the insulation is placed between the floor beams.

Thermal insulation of walls

The next stage is insulating the walls from the inside of a wooden house. I will say right away that you should resort to this procedure only if it is really necessary.

It is much more expedient to insulate the house from the outside.

The fact is that internal insulation contains a number of disadvantages:

• insulation, although not significantly, still takes away usable space in room. For large houses this, of course, is not critical, but in small houses, for example, garden houses, the reduction in space can be very noticeable;
• after insulating the walls from the inside, they completely stop heating;
• Moisture forms between the insulation and the wall, which leads to dampening of the surface and, accordingly, a decrease in the durability of the structure.

If insulation from the inside cannot be avoided, it is necessary to strictly adhere to a certain technology that will minimize all Negative consequences from this procedure.

So, to insulate the walls you need to prepare the following materials:

• antiseptic impregnation for wood;
• interventional insulation;
• wooden slats;
• vapor barrier;
• thermal insulation material;
• finishing material– lining or, for example, drywall.

The process of wall insulation can be divided into four main stages:

To prepare your walls for insulation with your own hands, you need to follow these steps:

1. the surfaces of the walls must be treated with impregnation to prevent rotting of the wood, protect it from moisture and other negative factors;

1. if the house is made of beams or logs, it is necessary to insulate the inter-crown cracks by filling them with tow, jute insulation or other suitable material.

Now we need to arrange a ventilation space between the wall and the insulation so that the walls do not get damp.

It is done as follows:

1. fix the slats on the walls in a horizontal position. Their thickness should be at least 1.5-2 cm.

Install them at a distance of 0.5 m vertically and 2-3 cm horizontally. At the same time, try to position them so that they form an even horizontal plane. Minor deviations are allowed, since the plane of the frame can be adjusted at the stage of installing the racks;

1. then a vapor barrier membrane must be attached to the slats. It must be positioned tautly to form ventilation gap. Tape the membrane joints with tape;
2. In order for the ventilation gap to work, you must drill holes in the wall from below near the base, and from above under the canopy.

Now let's start assembling the frame:

1. the beams that will serve as racks must be cut to the height of the room;

1. the prepared beams need to be secured to the slats. If their thickness is equal to the thickness of the insulation, the racks can be placed close to the slats using metal corners and self-tapping screws. If the beams are thinner, they should be fixed on hangers, and the thickness of the frame should be equal to the thickness of the insulation.
   Make the distance between the posts so that the insulation fits snugly against them. For example, if for insulation they are used mineral mats, the pitch of the racks can be made two centimeters less than the width of the mats.

To make the wall level, first install vertical posts (necessarily level) along the edges of the wall, i.e. near the corners, then pull the threads between them. This will allow you to place the intermediate posts in the same plane as the outer beams;

1. Now we are installing the insulation into the frame. To ensure effective insulation of walls in a wooden house from the inside, try to ensure that there are no gaps between the slabs. In addition, place the slabs close to the ceiling and walls.
   If cracks do form, they must be filled with scraps of mineral wool;

1. then a vapor barrier membrane must be attached to the studs. To secure it, you can use a construction stapler.
   Be sure to overlap the membrane strips and seal the joints with tape;
2. Fix wooden slats about two centimeters thick on top of the membrane. They will provide the necessary gap between the sheathing and the vapor barrier membrane.
   Keep in mind that the sheathing should be perpendicular to the plastic or lining.

To provide good sound insulation in housing, mineral wool insulation should be done interior walls, i.e. partitions. The principle of installing insulation is the same as when insulating load-bearing walls.

Now we need to sheathe the frame. Typically, wooden finishing materials are used for these purposes - lining or block house.

Their installation is carried out as follows:

1. the lining is most often installed vertically, so the boards must first be cut to the height of the room;
2. The first lining is installed so that the tenon is directed towards the corner. To fix it, self-tapping screws are screwed into the face from the tenon side.

On the groove side, the fitting can also be secured with self-tapping screws, which are screwed into the lower ridge of the groove. It is even easier and faster to perform fixation using special fasteners - clamps;

1. the next board will be locked into a lock with the previous one and attached to the frame from the groove side. The last board on the wall is cut to width and joined to the previous one. From the corner side, the lining is fixed to the frame with self-tapping screws, which are screwed into the face;

1. at the end of the work they are mounted on the corners wooden corners. They will hide the joints of the lining and the heads of the screws.

This completes the insulation of the walls inside the house.

Ceiling insulation

As I said above, ceiling insulation can be done from the attic side. However, sometimes it becomes necessary to install insulation from the inside.

If you have a similar situation, you need to prepare the following materials:

• slab insulation;
• wooden slats;
• vapor barrier membrane.

Installation of insulation is carried out as follows:

1. If there is no flooring in the attic, it will need to be installed. Boards or other material used as flooring should be secured to the floor beams using nails or self-tapping screws;
2. then, on the room side, a vapor barrier membrane should be attached to the floor beams and flooring;
3. Next, the space between the beams must be filled thermal insulation boards. To fix them, you can fix the slats perpendicular to the beams. You can also nail nails to the lower side surfaces of the beams, and stretch threads or wire between them;
4. After insulating the floor, you need to attach another layer of vapor barrier;

1. then the lathing is done and the ceiling material is installed. You can also make a frame and cover the ceiling with plasterboard.

Here, in fact, is all the information on how to properly insulate a wooden house from the inside.

Conclusion

Having familiarized yourself with the technology, you can safely take on insulating a wooden house from the inside. As you can see, there is nothing complicated in this work. I recommend watching the video in this article. For any questions, you can contact me in the comments, and I will be happy to answer you.

Our region is characterized by a long cold season. That is why the comfort of living in them largely depends on the quality of heating of the house. However, the cost of service heating devices is constantly increasing, and people are looking for options for preserving accumulated heat maximum amount time. That is why many people insulate the walls wooden dwellings not only from the outside, but also from the inside. Today we will tell you about doing such work with your own hands.

Advantages and features of insulating a wooden house from the inside

Insulating a wooden house is enough hard labour, which requires certain skills, time and effort. Therefore, before starting such work, you need to carefully weigh the pros and cons.

Previously, the walls of a wooden house were not insulated; a comfortable temperature in the house was ensured wood stoves. However, due to the low efficiency of such devices, fuel had to be added constantly. Thus, in addition to causing significant damage environment, people risked burning down their house.

Among the disadvantages of insulating a house from the inside are: professional craftsmen, first of all, they highlight an increase in the level of exposure to moisture on wood, as well as a shift in the dew point inside the wooden beams. However, this problem can be neutralized with the help of moisture protective agents.

Why is it considered better to insulate the walls inside the house:

1. By insulating your home not from the outside, but from the inside, you can preserve its original wooden facade of your home. Interior it will not be damaged, since the insulation layer will be hidden behind the front finish.
2. Unlike external insulation of walls, internal insulation can be carried out without the help of high-rise installation professionals. A tall goat and your patience will be enough here.
3. If the vapor barrier layer is made of a film with low permeability, then when installed outside it can disrupt the microclimate of the wood and cause it to become wet.

Thus, insulation wooden building from within there are advantages and disadvantages. After reading them, you can determine the relevance of this repair in your case.

How to insulate the walls of a wooden house from the inside

How to insulate the walls of a home from the inside - this question worries many owners suburban dwellings. For this you can use the most different materials. It is important to choose such insulation so that it is safe for health and suits your price and quality.

There is an interesting way to insulate wooden walls inside a house. With it, tow, twine, a special compound or glue are applied between the seams of the beams. This option is used when front finishing is not expected in the house.

Exists a large number of insulation suitable for wall finishing. We invite you to familiarize yourself with the most popular options. And decide on their pros and cons.

Insulation for walls:

1. Mineral wool is the most environmentally friendly and safe option for insulating a house from the inside. However, this method also has disadvantages, these include: the impossibility of insulating the house without erecting a sheathing and good moisture-absorbing ability.
2. Polystyrene foam is also used as insulation due to its low thermal conductivity and low price. However, such insulation can emit substances hazardous to health and simply burns beautifully.
3. Polyurethane foam is relatively new way. To use it you need special equipment and professional help.

To insulate the walls of a house, these options are most often chosen. Each of them is attractive in its own way. However, it is best to choose mineral wool.

Before insulating your home from the inside, we suggest looking at a few tips that will allow you to do this in the most efficient way. These instructions are based on the experience of professional craftsmen.

A wooden house cannot be insulated in the first year after its construction. This time is enough for the building to settle and take on a constant size.

Wall insulation has some nuances. You will have to spend a little time studying them, but as a reward you will receive a high-quality insulated building.

Tips for insulating your home with your own hands:

1. The walls of a wooden structure, insulated on both sides, can rot and become damp. A well-designed ventilation system will help prevent this problem.
2. Even if it seems to you that the wall is freezing in only one place, you still need to insulate all the walls in the house at once.
3. The places behind the batteries must be insulated with foil material. This will ensure the flow more heat into the room.
4. You need to leave some space between the insulation and the wall. This way, the thermal insulation of the walls will not affect their humidity.
5. Before starting insulation work, treat the walls with a moisture-repellent compound. This way you can avoid side effects internal insulation.

The walls of a building must be insulated from the inside correctly. Otherwise, you will not only be unable to maintain heat, but will also cause it to be lost more quickly.

Insulation of wooden walls from the inside

Insulation of a building made of wood occurs in several stages. Progress with different insulation will look different. Since on this moment The most common insulation material is mineral wool; we will tell you how to insulate the walls of a house with your own hands.

Stages of insulating the walls of a house with your own hands:

1. The first step is to clean the wooden walls from dirt. Old layer finishing, if any, is removed. A bare and clean wall is treated with antiseptics.
2. Next you need to caulk the walls. If this is a new house, then caulking occurs a year after construction; if it was lived in, then after three. Caulking involves pushing material, such as jute, into the cracks between the logs. The work is done using a thin chisel.
3. Moisture insulation is being installed. To do this, take a vapor barrier sheet and apply it with the rough side to the logs, after which it is nailed down with a construction stapler. The joints between sections of such fabric should overlap by 15 cm and should not be taped.
4. Now it's time to do the sheathing. To do this, you need to take a wooden beam 5x5 cm, and make a lath out of it, arranging the elements in increments of 50-60 centimeters.
5. Layers of mineral wool are inserted into the resulting lathing. They are attached using construction stapler. After installing mineral wool, it must be covered with a layer of waterproofing material.
6. On last stage the structure is covered with plasterboard. After this, the front finishing occurs.

The same principle applies to warming the year. Of course, we have presented a brief scheme for insulating a house, but in principle you can follow it to complete all the necessary steps.

Wooden houses are traditional for Russian cities and villages - they reliably serve their owners according to a lot decades and even often cross the century mark. But sooner or later the time comes when the insulation of a wooden house from the outside becomes necessary measure, since, being under the influence of wind, moisture and ultraviolet rays, the parts of the walls dry out and become covered with cracks, through which cold easily enters the rooms. To reduce heating costs, you need to invest in wall insulation, and this will pay off in the first winter.

By carrying out the exterior work, the homeowner will solve three problems at once - make the house warm, reduce the penetration of street noise into the rooms and update the external design of the building.

But, before buying material and starting work, you need to find out which of the modern insulation materials would be better suited for a wooden building, and in what sequence it is necessary to carry out its installation.

On this moment the most popular materials for insulation wooden buildings the outside is polystyrene foam in panels and different types of mineral wool, made in the form of mats or rolls. But besides them, in last years Sprayed insulating compounds, such as penoizol or ecowool, are increasingly being used, as well as thermal panels, which include not only an insulating layer, but also a decorative finish.

Expanded polystyrene

Expanded polystyrene is the most affordable material for insulation. He has good performance characteristics, give a chance significant savings on heating.

Expanded polystyrene is produced in panels of various thicknesses, sizes 1 × 1 and 1 × 0.5 m, with a density from 15 to 40 kg/m³. For external insulation work, medium-sized material is usually used. density - order 25kg/m³ and thickness from 50mm. It must be remembered that the higher the density of the insulation, the lower its thermal insulation qualities, but the higher the resistance to stress. Therefore, high-density polystyrene foam is used mainly for floor insulation.

Expanded polystyrene is lightweight, as it consists of a foamed mass filled with air, so it becomes a good barrier to both cold and sound waves. Expanded polystyrene has low thermal conductivity and therefore guarantees long-term preservation of the heat accumulated in the room.

It is easy to cut and attach to the wall. It is resistant to temperature changes and ultraviolet radiation, and also almost does not absorb moisture, so it has a fairly long service life.

But, in addition to numerous advantages, polystyrene foam also has its significant disadvantages:

• low mechanical strength - the material breaks and crumbles quite easily, so after fixing it to the wall it will require protection with mesh reinforcement and decorative coating;
• ordinary polystyrene foam cannot be called non-flammable, and when exposed to high temperatures it turns into a fluid burning mass and emits hazardous substances. human body substances. Only extruded polystyrene foam is considered non-flammable, or rather self-extinguishing, and it is recommended to use it for insulating wooden buildings.
• if you plan to attach the boards with glue, you need to find out in advance whether it is suitable for use with expanded polystyrene, since some substances destroy this material.

Rating of expanded polystyrene for facade

	Photo	Name	Rating	Price
#1			⭐ 100 / 100
#2			⭐ 99 / 100 1 - vote
#3			⭐ 98 / 100
#4			⭐ 96 / 100
#5			⭐ 95 / 100

Foamed polystyrene foam (EPS) KNAUF Therm DACHA

Foamed polystyrene foam (EPS) KNAUF Therm DACHA

Characteristic:

• quantity per package 10 pcs;
• dimensions 100×120 cm;
• thickness 100 mm;
• area of ​​one sheet 1.2 m²;
• packaged area 12 m²;
• applies
• thermal conductivity coefficient 0.048 W/(m⋅K).

Foamed polystyrene foam (EPS) KNAUF Therm DACHA

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) URSA XPS N-III-G4

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) URSA XPS N-III-G4

Characteristic:

• quantity per package 7 pcs;
• dimensions 118x60 cm;
• thickness 50 mm;
• area of ​​one sheet 0.7 m²;
• packaged area 4.9 m²;
• for internal and external works;
• tongue and groove slab;
• minimum operating temperature -50 °C;
• maximum operating temperature 75 °C.

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) URSA XPS N-III-G4

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) RAVATHERM XPS STANDARD

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) RAVATHERM XPS STANDARD

Xcharacteristics:

• material - extruded polystyrene foam (XPS);
• quantity per package 8 pcs;
• dimensions 118.5×58.5 cm;
• thickness 50 mm;
• area of ​​one sheet 0.7 m²;
• packaged area 5.6 m²;
• for internal and external works;
• scope of application: for floors, for walls, for ceilings, for roofs;
• tongue and groove slab;

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) RAVATHERM XPS STANDARD

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) PENOPLEX 45

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) PENOPLEX 45

Characteristic:

• material - extruded polystyrene foam (XPS);
• quantity per package 8 pcs;
• dimensions 240×60 cm;
• thickness 50 mm;
• area of ​​one sheet 1.4 m²;
• packaged area 11.2 m²;
• for external work;
• scope of application: for floors, for roofs;
• tongue and groove slab;
• maximum operating temperature 75 °C;
• thermal conductivity coefficient 0.033 W/(m⋅K).

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) PENOPLEX 45

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) Technoplex

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) Technoplex

Characteristic:

• material - extruded polystyrene foam (XPS);
• quantity per package 20 pcs;
• dimensions 120×60 cm;
• thickness 20 mm;
• area of ​​one sheet 0.7 m²;
• packaged area 14 m²;
• for internal and external works;
• minimum operating temperature -70 °C;
• maximum operating temperature 75 °C;
• thermal conductivity coefficient 0.032 W/(m⋅K).

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) Technoplex

Installation of polystyrene foam insulation

The panels are attached to the surface in two ways - on the lathing or directly on the plane of the walls using glue and “umbrella” (“fungi”) fasteners. The choice of technique depends on the surface on which it will be mounted.

If the house is built from timber and its walls have smooth surfaces, you can use both options, but it’s easier to get by with adhesive.

1. Before installing insulation, the surface must be inspected for cracks and cracks. If any are found, then they need to be repaired. The process can be carried out in various ways - this is plugging the cracks with tow, treated with lime, or sealing modern materials, such as sealant or construction foam.
2. After that wooden surface must be treated - it will protect it from harmful insects and the formation of moss or mold stains.
3. When the antiseptic has dried, you can begin installing the insulation. To ensure that it sticks well to the wall, you can lightly walk over its surface with an iron brush.
4. Installation of insulation begins from the bottom corner of the wall. For ease of fastening and evenness of the first row of panels, it is recommended to install a special profile in this place. It should have a width corresponding to the thickness of the material.

• The slabs are coated with a solution of special construction adhesive, pointwise and along the edges, and then applied and pressed against the wall. They should be pressed tightly against each other, creating a single surface. If gaps have formed between the panels, then after the glue has dried and secured to the wall, they must be sealed with polyurethane foam.

• After the first row has been removed, subsequent rows are attached according to the system brickwork, in a dressing.

• After waiting 3-4 days after installing the slabs to the wall, they must be secured using “fungi” fasteners. Each slab must be secured with 5-6 similar elements. The fastenings should have a leg length several centimeters greater than the thickness of the insulation, for example, if the insulation is 50 mm thick, then the “fungus” should be selected with a 100 mm leg. When driving, the cap should enter the polystyrene foam plate flush with its surface.

Fixing the fastening - “fungus”

• When all the insulation has been installed, you can begin to reinforce the polystyrene foam - this is done using fiberglass mesh.

• At all corners of the building you need to install special corners with a mesh attached to them; they are secured with glue.

Corner reinforcing mesh - serpyanka

• A wide mesh is fixed to the remaining surface, which is sold in rolls. It is laid with an overlap of 70-100 mm, also on the adhesive mass. The serpyanka should seem to drown in glue. Having fixed it on the surface of polystyrene foam, they go over it with a spatula from the center to the edges - according to the herringbone system, removing excess glue.
• When the glue on the reinforcing layer dries, the wall needs to be coated primer mixture— decorative plaster will fit well on it.

In this case, you can only make decorative plaster finishing - siding or there will simply be nothing to secure the lining to. But light finishing material can be attached to plastered walls, for example, plastic tiles under brick or stone.

find out detailed information with instructions on how to do it from our new article.

Since installation work according to the second option (on the lathing) is carried out in the same way as when insulating with mineral wool, they will be discussed below.

Why is it worth insulating your house?

Mineral wool

Mineral wool is not a new insulation material; it is time-tested, as it has been used for decades, and during this period it has not lost any of its popularity.

One of the best insulation materials- mineral wool

Mineral wool consists of numerous fibers bonded together special compounds. Three are produced different types mineral wool, and they differ in the base material of manufacture - this stone wool, glass wool and slag wool.

Of course, they have other differences - moisture resistance, thermal conductivity, resistance to some external influences, as well as the thickness and length of the fibers.

Slag

This material is made from blast furnace slag, which, after processing, is drawn into fibers with a length of 10 to 20 mm and a thickness of up to 10 microns.

When choosing insulation for a facade, you should immediately abandon this option, since it is hydroscopic. If moisture gets on it, it can cause mold to grow inside the material. In addition, if it is located next to metal profile, then an oxidation reaction may occur, since the slag contains residual acidity.

Slag wool has a fairly high thermal conductivity for insulation, and according to this characteristic it is also not entirely suitable for insulating the walls of private housing.

Glass wool

Glass wool is made by melting glass melt, the length of the fibers of the material is from 15 to 45 mm, and the thickness is no more than 12-15 microns. This insulation is well suited for protecting walls from the cold outside - glass wool is heat-resistant and non-hygroscopic. In addition, she has light weight and good elasticity. Glass wool is produced in mats or rolls, and due to its elasticity, the packaging does not have excessively large volumes, since the material is easily compressed.

Glass wool made in mats is denser and stronger. It not only insulates the walls well, but also provides excellent protection from the wind, and, in addition, it is much easier to install between the sheathing bars.

The disadvantage is that when installing it, you need to carefully protect your eyes, face and hands, and respiratory organs, since thin glass fibers, if they come into contact with fabrics, can injure them or cause severe irritation. Therefore, when working with this material, it is necessary to wear a respirator, goggles, gloves and a protective suit.

Stone wool

Basalt rocks serve as raw materials for the production of stone wool. It, like other types of insulation, consists of fibers, has low thermal conductivity and high hydrophobicity, as well as the ability to withstand high temperatures, so it can be called heat-resistant material. This type of wool is not so elastic, so its shape and volume are quite stable. Thanks to all my positive characteristics, it is excellent for insulating facades.

Basalt (stone) wool is a material with virtually no disadvantages

Basalt wool is available in the form of rolls or slabs; it can be denser or softer, but for walls it is necessary to choose the most dense material.

All of the above types of mineral wool are classified according to hardness. This indicator needs to be clarified, since not all brands are suitable for insulating facades. For such work, you need to choose material grade PZh-175 - this is a rigid slab, or PPZh -200, which means increased rigidity of the slab.

Thermal insulation of walls with mineral wool

• Installation of the insulating layer of mineral wool is carried out with lathing installed on the wall - this method can also be used for insulation with polystyrene foam. It is suitable for both flat and log surfaces.
• In this case, a lathing made of timber or galvanized metal profiles is installed on the walls, between which slab or roll insulation is fixed.

• In order to achieve a better insulation effect and keep the walls safe from moisture, it is recommended to pre-fix a vapor barrier material under the sheathing.
• It must be remembered that the sheathing bars are installed at a distance from each other, which should be 5 cm less than the width of the insulation. This is required so that it fits tightly between two adjacent guides. If the material will be installed in two layers, then it is necessary to provide for the thickness of the installed bars - it must correspond to two layers of insulation.

• There are several ways to secure the sheathing, and which one to choose is up to the owner of the house, depending on the quality of the insulation and the evenness of the wall.
• After installing the sheathing beams, insulation mats are laid between them, starting from the bottom row. To prevent them from slipping, you can connect all the bars from below with a supporting rail.

• In the event that it is used roll material, installation begins from the top, securing the top edge to the “fungi”. The remaining fastening elements will be installed later.
• Then, the laid insulation is covered with a vapor barrier film. It is often used to completely cover the entire wall, securing it to the bars with staples. Sometimes it is laid only on insulation, but the first option is preferable.

• Next, all the insulation material, together with the vapor barrier, is secured with “fungi” to the wall.
• Fixed on top of the sheathing decorative finishing- this can be siding or lining. The rules for installing such finishing are discussed separately in other publications.

Mounted on top of the sheathing decorative coating- siding, block house or other materials

• If the sheathing is installed vertically, then the sheathing will be horizontal and vice versa. This point must be taken into account when installing bars or profiles. It also happens differently - with two layers of insulation. First, the first sheathing is made horizontally, then, after laying the first layer of insulation, a second sheathing is mounted along the beams, perpendicular to the first. After laying the second layer of mineral wool, everything is the same as described above.

Video - Example of wall insulation with mineral wool

Prices for mineral wool

Mineral wool

Sprayed insulation

In addition to materials in the form of mats and rolls, liquid insulation materials that are sprayed onto walls have recently begun to be used. These include such as ecowool and polyurethane. When choosing such insulation materials, you should pay attention to their characteristics - they can be an excellent alternative to mineral wool or rigid polystyrene foam.

Polyurethane foam

Wooden house covered with polyurethane foam, on long years can be considered protected from the negative processes of mold, exposure to dampness, wind, low and high temperatures.

Modern way thermal insulation - spraying polyurethane foam

However, this spraying method is not often used, since it requires special equipment and good skills, and inviting a professional with special equipment is quite expensive. However, it must be taken into account that the service life of this material reaches up to fifty years, while other insulation materials become unusable after more than short term. Therefore, having spent once on insulation, you can forget about repairing the facade for many years.

After covering the walls with polyurethane foam, they acquire properties such as hydrophobicity, low thermal conductivity, and resistance to almost any external influences.

The advantages of this technology also include the following qualities:

• excellent adhesion when applied;
• lack of fastening elements;
• the material penetrates into all small holes and cracks in the wall, preventing cold air from penetrating inside the building;
• compatibility with any materials;
• the formation of a seamless coating on the surface, which is very important for the heat-saving effect;
• the coating does not require repair or renewal for many years;
• mold does not appear on it and it is not damaged by rodents.

Application of polyurethane foam

Any surface for installation of sprayed materials must be prepared. In particular, bars of the same size as the thickness of the spray layer planned to be installed are nailed onto its surface - these will become a kind of beacons. Using these guidelines, protruding frozen sections of foam material will be cut off.

When applying insulation, the device operates under high pressure- more than 100 atmospheres. Master using air gun sprays material on the wall surface. Once on the surface, the polyurethane foams in 2-3 seconds. The setting and beginning of hardening of polyurethane foam occurs almost immediately.

To achieve the necessary heat and sound insulation effects, the coating must be sprayed in three layers.

Sprayed polyurethane is divided into materials for internal and external use. For external application, use “Ecotermix 300”, “HEATLOK SOY”

For example, the video shows the application of polyurethane to wooden walls from the inside of a house. The spraying process on the outside is practically no different.

Video - Spraying polyurethane foam thermal insulation

Ecowool

Ecowool is an insulating and soundproofing material, also applied by spraying. The raw material for its production is recycled cellulose with the addition of borax and boric acid, which are non-toxic and non-volatile. The insulation looks like gray powder.

Another method of thermal insulation of walls is spraying ecowool

The environmental cleanliness of the material is confirmed by the fact that it does not contain synthetic compounds, petroleum products, or other substances that can emit fumes hazardous to human health.

When the material is applied to the surface, it fills all holes and voids, forming a monolithic insulating layer without joints.

Additives from borax and boric acid are excellent antiseptics for insulation, preventing any forms of biological life from growing in its thickness.

Important positive quality ecowool for wooden buildings is its heat resistance - material smolders, but does not ignite with an open flame.

Application of an insulating layer of ecowool

The wooden surface for spraying must be prepared - the sheathing is fixed to it the right size— it will regulate the thickness of the spraying. In addition, it will play the role of supporting elements so that the not completely hardened material does not slide out under its own weight.

To spray ecowool on walls, you need a special installation, the hopper of which is filled with dry material. There it is loosened and moistened, and applied to the surface through a special gun under pressure. The process itself is quite simple, but it cannot be carried out without a special apparatus.

Video - Technological process of spraying ecowool on wooden walls

In addition to the materials and technologies described above, to date There are many other insulation materials. Therefore, if the goal is to make the house warm and save family money on energy bills every day, then you can always find a material that meets all the criteria.

How to determine the required insulation thickness?

The thickness of the thermal insulation layer depends on the thickness of the wooden walls and climatic features region of residence.

Know required thickness insulation is important. Excessive “coat” can only damage a wooden house, while insufficient coat will not allow creating comfortable conditions accommodation. In addition, this parameter directly affects the design of the frame - it is important to know how far away from the wall its guides should be placed under the external one. Carrying out independent calculations is not so difficult, especially if you use the proposed calculation method.

The point is What total heat transfer resistance multilayer wall designs R should not be less than calculated for a specific climatic region of the country. For convenience, these values ​​are plotted on a map of the Russian Federation. In this case, we are interested in the upper value (purple numbers) - for the walls.

The wall is not only the frame itself, but also the interior decoration (if there is one or is planned, a layer of thermal insulation and external finishing facade (important - external finishing made according to the principle of a ventilated facade is not taken into account). For each layer, its thermal resistance index is calculated.

For example, the following diagram can be given:

1 – wooden wall (timber or log). There is a nuance - thickness log wall(right) may be slightly smaller than from timber. It is worth paying attention to this when taking measurements and further calculations.

2 – walls, if any. Often, in log houses, the walls in the premises are left unlined - so as not to lose the naturalness of the coating. But they can easily be covered with plasterboard (for painting or finishing with wallpaper), plywood, natural lining or wood composite panels, OSB sheets, etc.

3 - Thermal insulation layer - it is its thickness that must be determined.

The structure may have several layers. So, if the outside is provided with cladding without a ventilated gap, close to the insulation material (for example, using natural boards or lining). then it will also need to be taken into account.

The figure also shows:

4 — vapor permeable diffuse membrane.

5 – frame details (lathing).

6 – siding or lining, mounted according to the principle of a ventilated facade, with a gap (7). This is the finishing, as already mentioned, no matter what material it is made from, there is no tangible contribution to the overall thermal resistance will not contribute to the wall structure, and we do not take it into account.

So, to determine required thickness insulation, you need to know the thickness of each layer and their thermal conductivity coefficient.

Rn = Hn / λn

• Hn— thickness of a specific layer.
• λn— thermal conductivity coefficient of the material from which the layer is made.

As a result, the calculation formula takes the following form:

Hу = (R– H1/ λ1 – H2/ λ2 – H3/ λ3 … ) × λу

• Well– thickness of insulation.
• λу– thermal conductivity coefficient of the selected thermal insulation material.

Find odds for various materials It’s easy to find reference books – there’s a lot of it posted on the Internet. Measuring the thickness of existing layers is also not difficult.

The tree is traditional material for the construction of houses. It is intuitively clear that the more massive and thicker the wall, the more low temperatures she can bear it. Today it is not always possible to find construction material required sizes. The solution is to perform additional thermal insulation of the walls.

Principles of insulation

Yes, for wooden wall 150 mm thick, available in two options.

Option 1:

• interior decoration;
• air gap;
• vapor barrier;
• insulation layer 5 cm;
• vapor barrier;
• air gap;
• wall.

Option 2:

• interior decoration;
• air gap;
• vapor barrier;
• insulation layer 5 cm;
• wall.

Both options work exactly the same up to an outside air temperature of -15C°. A comfortable thermal regime is maintained indoors (+23 C°).

With further lowering of the temperature in the first option with two air gaps, condensation does not form down to -20 C°. In the second, starting from -16 C°, the dew point shifts to the timber-insulation boundary.

Increasing the thickness of the insulation, paradoxically, will only worsen the situation. With a thermal insulation layer thickness of 10 cm, condensation will form already at -12 C°.

From the calculations it is clear that insulation from the inside during severe and prolonged frosts is ineffective. However, the option with two air gaps has the right to exist when seasonal accommodation in cold climatic zones and year-round in temperate zones with mild winters.

Ventilation duct

The ventilation gap ensures air circulation inside the wall. It allows you to remove some moisture (condensation that forms in cold weather).

Internal vents are formed by packing vertical slats 20 mm thick and about 40 mm wide onto the wall surface. Fastening is carried out with nails or self-tapping screws.

A vapor barrier membrane is installed on top of the installed slats. It is secured using a construction stapler. An important nuance is the orientation. The smooth side should be facing the insulation, the rough side should be away from it. This will allow water vapor to escape from the volume of thermal insulation towards the air gap and will not let them back in.

Construction of the frame and installation of thermal insulation

The main part of the insulating structure is the frame for installing insulation mats. To make it, it is best to use bars with a cross section of 40 x 50 mm or 50 x 50 mm. This cross-section will provide sufficient spatial rigidity.

Fastening vertical racks is carried out to the floor and ceiling using fastening profiled plates and self-tapping screws. If necessary, to provide greater strength, you can perform through fastening with large self-tapping screws directly to the wall of the house. For the convenience of subsequent work, the pitch of the vertical posts must correspond to the size of the insulation mats (800 or 600 mm).

To fix the mineral wool in the frame, no fasteners are required. The mats are installed tightly, by surprise. It is very important to completely fill the entire space between the racks in order to exclude microconvection and cold air bridges through the internal cracks in the insulating layer.

Vapor barrier

The principles and techniques for installing the second vapor barrier layer are similar to the first. Diffusion membrane unfolds over the entire surface with the smooth side facing the insulation and fastens with a stapler.

A continuous barrier is created that protects the internal space of the frame with insulation from the penetration of water vapor from the room.

Air gap

By analogy with the first air gap slats are placed onto the frame posts through the installed membrane. They serve to organize the ventilation space and are the basis for fastening finishing premises.

Finish cladding

Finishing can be very varied:

• lining;
• block house;
• OSB boards or plasterboard sheets followed by plastering or wallpapering.

The best option for preserving the color and atmosphere of a wooden house is imitation timber. If everything is done carefully, then an ignorant person will never guess that there is insulation behind the sheathing boards.