Putty gvl. GVL finishing. Partition construction, structure and composition, frame assembly, cladding and sound insulation. Wall cladding and finishing. DIY frameless installation

Among piece finishing materials, gypsum fiber boards for walls stand out. They are in many ways similar to dry plaster, but differ in operational characteristics. We will explain later in the article how such slabs are cut, how they are prepared for installation and attached to the wall.

Gypsum fiber boards - types and advantages of the material

There are two types of gypsum fiber sheets (GVL), the difference between them lies in the manufacturing method and properties. Some are suitable for rooms with high humidity, others cover other walls. Moisture-resistant sheets (GVLV) have impregnations that protect products from water and steam. Their area of ​​application is unheated rooms, bathrooms, kitchens. Non-moisture resistant GVL are used in dry rooms.

The basis of the boards is gypsum - a rather brittle material, therefore, to increase strength, cellulose and reinforcing additives are additionally used in production. GVL for walls differs from plasterboard: during its production there is no cardboard covering. The strength of gypsum plasterboard is much greater than that of drywall. In many cases, gypsum fiber boards are simply irreplaceable, especially in unheated rooms. They do not lose their properties when subjected to repeated freezing and defrosting.

Among other advantages of GVL they note increased fire resistance. Covering wooden walls with gypsum fiber boards increases their fire safety. The material contains no impurities harmful to human health. Fungi and mold do not find a nutrient medium in them, and rodents are also not interested in them. The products are very durable, warm to the touch, insulate sounds well, and protect against heat loss.

GVL comes in standard and small format sizes. Standard 2500×1200 mm, 10 or 12 mm thick. Small format ones are made 1500x1000 mm of the same thickness. They are convenient in small spaces: bathroom, toilet. WITH reverse side Marking is applied indicating the properties of the product. The letter A in the marking indicates high quality.

These products are supplied to the market by many enterprises producing building materials. You should choose products famous manufacturers. Visual inspection will also help you get an idea of ​​the product. The surface must be undamaged and free from unevenness. You should buy from stores that have dry warehouses where the goods have been stored under proper conditions.

Among other advantages of gypsum fiber boards, the following should be noted:

• construction defects and communications are hidden under them;
• pressed sheets are very strong and tough, nails and screws are securely attached to them;
• the material can be processed with carpentry tools like wood;
• the surface is painted, wallpapered, tiled.

GVL can be used in any premises, regardless of the condition of the surfaces or the material used. This is an alternative to wet plaster: environmentally friendly, durable, beautiful, requiring a minimum of time and effort during installation.

How to cut gypsum fiber boards correctly - the necessary tools

Many people believe that the material for installation should be prepared in the same way as drywall. This is not entirely true. Despite the same basis, their properties differ. GVL, despite its strength, is fragile, so its processing technology is different. For cutting use:

• a hacksaw for gypsum fiber boards, which produces almost no dust;
• a thick construction knife with many spare blades that will have to be constantly changed;
• shoe knife;
• grinder or circular saw, which are used to cut sheets very quickly;
• jigsaw with wood saw, pitch 4 mm.

When cutting with a jigsaw and grinder, a lot of dust is generated. For protection, use a respirator and goggles, and the sheets are moistened with water.

Cutting is carried out carefully and carefully to avoid injury from sharp and dangerous tools. First, the sheet is marked, then, according to a ruler or rule, cuts are made several times with a knife. The depth of the cuts should reach ⅔ of the thickness of the slab. A ruler is placed from below, a piece of sheet is sharply pulled up, and the slab is broken along the line.

The sheets usually have a smooth edge, which does not create difficulties when joining them. If there is a need to adjust the edges, it is convenient to work with a plane. To make a fold, use a shoe cutter or chisel. If there is a lot of work, use a router with a 3–4 mm groove cutter.

Installation without a frame - all the nuances of the process

GVL can be installed without a frame. It is preferable to carry out installation before laying the finishing floor covering. The sheets are kept in a room for two to three days at a temperature of +10° and above; the thermal regime must be maintained throughout the entire operation. It is also important to prevent changes in humidity.

Assess the condition of the walls. If the surface peels off, partially or completely remove the plaster depending on the area of ​​the problem surface. Apply putty and allow to dry. Whether the wall has been puttied or not, it is checked for unevenness. IN different places apply a ruler and measure the depth of the depressions. Their presence or absence determines how the material will be attached.

If the unevenness is less than 4 mm, they are fixed with gypsum putty. It is applied with a notched trowel along the edges of the slab, then the gypsum fiber is glued to the wall. For unevenness up to 20 mm, use GVL glue. It is applied over the entire sheet, starting from the edges, every 30 centimeters. If the unevenness is up to 40 mm, installation becomes more complicated. First, strips of sheets 10 cm wide are attached to the glue, and then the sheets themselves are glued to them using gypsum putty. The slabs are leveled along a stretched cord, tapping with a mallet.

Before installation, the walls are primed. While the primer dries, you can prepare the gypsum fiber boards. They are cut to size and holes are made for the outlet of electrical appliances. The surface of the walls is marked using a tape measure and a cord breaker, and the installation locations of the slabs are indicated. It should be remembered that the bottom edge of the sheet should not reach 10 mm to the floor. Then these gaps are closed with sections of gypsum plasterboard.

Installation of gypsum fiber board on a frame

A metal profile is used or wooden slats 75x25 mm. First, prepare the walls by removing the peeling coating. Application frame method allows you to exclude wall preparation from preliminary operations. Many experts, however, advise pre-plastering the walls.

Using a building level and plumb line, markings are applied indicating the installation locations of the profile. Vertical posts and lintels are installed at the junction points and the spaces between them in increments of 40 cm. A metal frame is preferable to wooden slats. The profiles are installed on brackets and secured with self-tapping screws or dowels. The racks are covered with sealing tape, which will increase sound insulation. The length of the risers is minus 10 mm from the height of the room.

It is better to finally fix the racks after checking the compliance with the joints of the slabs.

The gypsum fiber material begins to be attached from the corner in a perpendicular manner. Fix with 40 mm self-tapping screws for gypsum plasterboard if the material thickness is standard. In any case, the screws should enter the body 20 mm. The caps are recessed by 2 mm. A small gap of 5–7 mm is left between the sheets. The space between the gypsum plasterboard and the wall can be insulated using, for example, mineral wool.

Adding beauty to the walls - finishing the surface

Before finishing, the surface is prepared with the main purpose of sealing the joints. them, as well as internal corners reinforced with special paper tape. Some craftsmen do not recommend reinforcement. A little universal putty is applied to the seams, tape is applied on top and pressed in a little.

Joints should not be reinforced with nylon mesh or fiberglass tape.

After drying, the seam is covered with a layer of putty and leveled with the base. The heads of the screws must be puttied too. Aluminum perforated corners are attached to the outer corners with putty. Then this place is also leveled and reduced to the level of the main plane.

Now the putty is prepared in a plastic bucket with a mixer and applied to the surface. A day later, when the putty has dried, they begin to grout the walls with an abrasive mesh or sandpaper. The abrasive material is fixed in special graters. Its grain size depends on the finishing material. For painting, an abrasive of at least size 240 is suitable; for thick wallpaper, 60 is sufficient.

Remove dust with a damp cloth and prime with a roller. The walls are ready for finishing. You can cover it with wallpaper - from paper to textile or tile it. All paints are acceptable except those made with lime, which contain silicates.

Question: Please tell me what dry mixture is best to use for sealing irregularities of the specified size in a gypsum plasterboard floor?

Hippopotamus: I asked Knauf specialists about Uniflot. I received the answer that Uniflot is a putty and is not suitable for use in a thick layer on the floor.
Maybe you have experience using Uniflot in this way?

In general, I did this: I filled the existing holes with Tomsit DD self-leveling mixture (if the hole is deep, then put a rotband on the bottom). On top I laid OSB-3 12mm with self-tapping screws and PVA. It came out strong in appearance and not too expensive.
Now the problem is how to close the deformation gaps, discussion here http://www.mastercity.ru/vforum/show...30#post1483630

I can’t clarify about soundproofing, since I don’t live in an apartment yet. Please note that I have GVL on the joists and under it there is about 10cm of expanded clay chips.

About “don’t create a problem for yourself.” Just filling out the holes is good, but pit formation process it won't stop. Simply put, in six months new ones will appear. OSB, in my opinion, will be difficult to tread, since the load will be distributed over a large area + partially on the logs.

There are still gaps acrylic sealant I fill it in, with a small plug on top and some epoxy-coated fabric.

I don’t understand - if you have a gypsum fiber board with 10 cm of expanded clay chips under it, then why do you need logs? If they put the gypsum fiber board directly on the expanded clay, there would be no problems with sagging and leveling. There is also a standard Knauf dry floor technology.

Yes, Knauf has such technology. But these floors were part of the standard finish, and they were made by some craftsmen.
By the way, acrylic sealant + epoxy turned out quite well. Let's see how it behaves further.

And then - if there is one layer of gypsum fiber board on the joists (by the way, at what interval?) - such a floor can be easily broken through by furniture

Uniflot from Knauf
I put them in the seams between the sheets to a depth of 5 cm
cram as much as possible in there and level it on top - it dries - awesome)))

Knauf "fugen gv" putty for gvl bag 25 kg. price, in St. Petersburg, description, characteristics

Description, characteristics

Putty "Fugenfüller GV" is a dry mixture of gypsum with special additives.

Intended for:

Puttying joints of gypsum fiber sheets (GVL);

Gluing GVL to a flat surface;

Sealing cracks and others possible damage GVL.

Surface preparation

Gypsum fiber sheets must be firmly fixed to the supporting base. The surface intended for puttying must be dry and free of dust.

Preparation

Putty for sealing joints and seams of gypsum boards, gypsum fiber boards, and other joints without the use of sealing tapes. Excellent adhesion and high strength. Basic properties are the same as JPP 55, more different speed dial full strength. Use time 45 minutes, Drying time 1.0-2 hours. Full strength gain within 2-3 hours.

The tensile and compressive strength normalized by the manufacturer provides these materials with guaranteed high strength and their effectiveness in the widest range of installations and decorative gypsum boards and gypsum fiber boards without the use of sealing tapes. By choosing from the two proposed putty options, you will choose the one that suits your needs. specific case material. Compared to JPP 55, JPP 54 express has a finer and denser structure, with a slight yellowish tint. Provides greater joint strength. It gains final strength much faster, but at the same time has slightly worse machinability (it is more difficult to grind).

Putty for sealing joints and seams of gypsum boards using sealing tapes, fiberglass mesh or serpyanka. Especially recommended for working with paper sealing tapes. Dries very quickly in 30 minutes. Gains strength in 2 - 3 hours. Recommended for urgent work. Allows you to completely prepare gypsum boards for painting or wallpaper in 1 day. White, durable, easy to apply. Gives smooth flat surface. Grain 150 microns. Density 0.9 kg/dm3. Consumption 350-500 g/m2. Layer from 0.3 to 15 mm. Recommended for leveling and finishing ceilings on any plaster. Easy to sand.

Putty for sealing joints and seams of gypsum boards using sealing tapes and serpyanka. Long pot life - 24 hours. Recommended for stable operation throughout the day without being distracted by preparing new portions of putty. Effective when performing large volumes of work. White, smooth. Very fine structure - 100 microns. Used as finishing paste. Excellent processing. Leveling walls and ceilings on any basis.

Finishing paste for final high-quality finishing of joints and the entire surface of plasterboard, gypsum board. Convenient and economical to use. Virtually no sanding is required. The remaining material does not lose its properties, providing it full use. Used as a shingle for finishing walls and ceilings.

JPP 58 L.M.A. pate NEW

Ready-to-use thin finishing putty. Finishing paste for final high-quality finishing of joints and the entire surface of gypsum plasterboard, gypsum board of any mineral surfaces and plaster. Convenient and economical to use. It has a fine, dense structure (grain up to 120 microns). Density 1.7 kg/dm3. Complete drying within 6-8 hours. Environmentally friendly material!!! Virtually no sanding is required.

The remaining material in the container does not lose its properties, ensuring its full use. This material is similar in its properties and purpose to the well-known SHITROK putty.

COMPONENTS

Excellent economic efficiency, high quality and the durability of sealing gypsum board joints with JPP series materials is ensured by a system using sealing tape based on special fiber paper. JP 50 tape has excellent and reliable adhesion to all JPP series putties. Unlike a system with a conventional serpyanka, a crack cannot pass through JP 50 and always remains under the JP 50 layer, visually invisible and not spoiling the appearance.

A special sealing tape based on large cellulose fibers is used to seal gypsum board or gypsum fiber board joints. Used instead of serpyanka. Guaranteed to eliminate the appearance of cracks at joints and seams. Recommended for use in combination with JPP 52. The special structure ensures easy application of the tape on external corners and corners. To ensure complete success in your job, you must complete a short training course.

A special sealing tape reinforced with a metal strip for sealing external and internal corners of gypsum plasterboard or gypsum board. Used instead of corners. Eliminates the appearance of cracks and chips on the outer and inner corners of gypsum boards and gypsum boards. Recommended for use in combination with any JPP series putties.

Special reinforcing tape based on high-strength glass fiber. Used when it is necessary to increase strength and ensure reliable and durable sealing of joints dissimilar materials, joints, sealing cracks that have already appeared, etc. Used as a reinforcing material. It is recommended to use in combination with JPP 54 or JPP 55 putties. The mesh is embedded in the freshly laid putty, providing its reinforcement. For correct and effective application It is recommended to undergo training.

Gypsum fiber sheet GVL - training in plasterboard work

Gypsum fiber sheets (GVL) are a relatively new building material in Russia. They are used for construction interior partitions, flooring, installation suspended ceilings. These sheets are classified as non-combustible materials.

Advantages of gypsum fiber sheets

Gypsum fiber sheets have a number of the following advantages: large bearing capacity: a screw screwed into gypsum plasterboard can support a weight of 30 kg; great strength; high fire-fighting properties; optimal moisture capacity - maintaining indoors normal humidity; good technical characteristics for processing. When finishing with gypsum fiber sheets, there is no need for “wet” work, labor intensity is eliminated, quality is improved, and work completion time is accelerated.

In addition, construction costs become more economical, since the structure of the building as a whole is lighter. GVL allows you to provide favorable microclimate premises and environmental cleanliness. Gypsum fiber sheets consist of environmentally friendly building material– gypsum, to which dissolved cellulose waste paper is added. Thanks to the waste paper additive, GVL acquires the necessary elasticity and viscosity. The shape of the sheets is rectangular elements with a length from 2000 to 3600, a thickness from 10 to 19 and a width of 600 or 1200 mm. Standard Sheet has a length of 2500, a width of 1200 and a thickness of 12 mm.

GVL can be: sanded or unpolished; with edges without chamfers and with chamfers. Chamfers are designed to create a durable and invisible seam when filling joints. GVL without chamfers is used for installation of the inner layer of wall cladding or partition. When joining gypsum fiber boards with rectangular ends, they must be chamfered manually at an angle of 22.5°. The main differences between GVL and gypsum board (plasterboard sheet) are as follows: GVL has a higher density in structure; there is no need to apply reinforcing tape to GVL seams; GVL does not require processing of corners with special corners; GVL has the ability to create a curved surface of a larger radius than GCR; GVL does not require surface treatment with putty; you can drive a nail into the GVL and hang a load of up to 30 kg on it; when burned, gypsum fiber board does not char, while gypsum board ignites cardboard; GVL has higher sound insulation.

Plasterboard sheets are a very practical and easy-to-use material, and it is also inexpensive. The installation process eliminates the “wet” cycle, but final stage It is necessary to seal the interface lines between the sheets. The durability of repair measures depends on the quality of work, since violation of technology results in cracks at the joints of the slabs. Therefore, it makes sense to familiarize yourself with the features of the gypsum board puttying procedure.

Question No. 1: how to putty joints between sheets of drywall: tools and materials

Any construction operation is not complete without the presence of certain tools. Leveling the surface of plasterboard boards is no exception. To seal the folds you will need the following tools:

The latest developments in the construction industry in the form of rollers make it possible to effectively process joint lines of gypsum board sheets at both external and internal corners. This is important when high-quality compounds. The long handle makes it possible to work in rooms up to 3.5 meters high.

Necessary materials

The following materials must be prepared:

• Reinforcing tape in the form of a perforated paper strip or serpyanka. The use of the latter is justified when working on a new house, when slight shrinkage with the appearance of cracks between the slabs is expected.
• Putty for sealing seams. Good results are achieved using dry putty mixture Knauf Uniflot.
• A primer for gypsum boards that increases the adhesive properties of the surface. Some compositions have water-repellent and antiseptic properties.

What putty is used to seal seams between sheets of drywall in private housing construction?

When choosing mixtures for processing linear gypsum board joints, it is important to consider what the final finish will be. For example, or plaster can be used inexpensive materials, because possible appearance cracks do not threaten integrity finishing coating. Craftsmen mainly use Knauf products:

1. Fugenfueller.
2. Uniflot.

The first putty on the list for drywall joints is just right for pre-treatment under decorative plaster or wallpaper. The mixture is inexpensive, so it is very popular among developers. When working with Fugenfuller, it is advisable to use serpyanka as a reinforcing layer.

The second version of the putty mixture under the Uniflott brand is a more expensive product because it contains polymer additives. The strength and quality of the coating created by this composition is much greater than that of Fugenfüller. Before as , their surface can also be treated with Uniflot. If you plan to use paint as a finishing touch, then this mixture is just right.

Types of gypsum board edges

The transverse edge of all types of plasterboard boards is the same; it is always straight and not covered with a layer of cardboard. Another thing is the longitudinal edge of the sheet, there may be the following options:

• Direct (PC) - usually done on gypsum fiber boards. Such joints are not sealed during roughing.
• Semicircular (PLUK) - an edge thinned on the front side of the sheet. The most common type of longitudinal end, which is sealed using reinforcing tape and putty mixture.
• Beveled (MC) - the process of sealing these edges is quite labor-intensive and consists of three to four stages with the obligatory use of serpyanka.
• Rounded (ZR) - reinforcing tape is not used when sealing such seams.
• Seam edge (FC) - similar in shape to PC edge, mainly used on gypsum boards.

There are several other types of edges found in production, but it is almost impossible to see them on the shelves of our construction stores. The most common types of edges are PLUK and UK. They do not require additional processing, so they can be puttyed immediately.

How to putty joints between plasterboard slabs: technological aspects

The process includes preliminary preparation joining edges. In places where the joint line is formed by a straight cut edge, you need to make a chamfer. For this construction knife The edge of the sheet should be cut at an angle of 45° to a width and depth of about 5 mm. Next, the folds are cleaned of dust and primed.

While the primer is drying, it’s worth thinking about how to putty the joints between the plasterboard slabs, in other words, start preparing the mixture. It is prepared in accordance with the instructions indicated on the package. To mix dry powder with water, use a mixer, turning it on at low speed. The finished solution resembles the consistency of thick sour cream. Now you can proceed directly to the process:

• Using a narrow spatula, apply the solution across the seam, while trying to rub it inside the gap so that the mixture fills the thickness of the gypsum board. If the connecting lines exceed a length of 3 meters, then it is worth dividing them into sections.
• Place reinforcing tape or fiberglass mesh over the applied mixture. Using a rubbing motion with a spatula, immerse the mesh deep into the solution.
• Using a wide 250 mm spatula, “pull out” the remaining mixture along the sides of the joint in order to level the plane.
• The same method is used to seal the internal and external corners using corner spatulas. At the same time, cover the recesses from the screws.
• Using a sanding block, after completely dry mixture, the surface is grouted in a circular motion.
• After sanding, remove any remaining dust and prime the joints.

In order for the puttying of joints between sheets of drywall to be done efficiently, work should begin only after the humidity in the room has normalized. Temperature changes that lead to cracks are also undesirable.

The quality of the finishing coating is taken care of in advance, even during the installation phase of the sheets. The slabs should only be joined on profiles; their edges should not be left unfixed. The gap between the sheets is required; its value should be at least 3-5 mm, because cracks may appear in the future.

The gypsum fiber sheet used today varies, it all depends on its application. There are those that can only be used for dry rooms, and there are those that are suitable for conditions of high humidity. Manufacturers offer regular and moisture-resistant gypsum fiber board, which can perfectly replace even tiles in industrial premises characterized by high constant humidity (it is necessary to putty the walls before installation!).

Characteristics of gypsum fiber.

In addition, GVL sheets are divided into standard and small-format. The dimensions of standard slabs are: 2500 mm - length, 1200 mm - width, 10/12 mm - thickness. Small-format sheets have dimensions: 1500 mm - length, 1000 mm - width, 10/12 millimeters - thickness. Such small sheets are very convenient to mount on walls in bathrooms and toilets using wireless frame method(after this, the walls must be puttied with special moisture-resistant compounds).

All sheets that are used for installation on walls have a marking on the back side containing the characteristics of the sheet, its date of manufacture, and the name of the company that produced the material. The marking must necessarily contain information on the type of longitudinal edge of the slab, the exact name of the material (regular or waterproof), and the dimensions of one sheet in millimeters; designation of the group to which the material belongs.

Installation

Wall priming scheme.

Installation of GVL can be carried out on cleaned walls or after they have been putty (this depends on the condition of the wall). For this purpose, the adhesive method is used, when the plates are glued to the surface using gypsum putty or special glue. This can be done in several ways depending on the curvature of the wall; in some cases it is necessary to putty them first.

For the frame method, a special galvanized metal profile or wooden slats are used, to which the sheet is screwed.

The process of laying gypsum fiber sheets

Do-it-yourself installation of gypsum fiber sheets on walls can be done using two methods: frameless and frame. In the first case, the GVL slabs are glued to the surface, in the second, a special frame is first installed with your own hands, to which the sheets are screwed. Let's take a closer look at both installation methods.

DIY frameless installation

Stages of laying gypsum boards on the floor

For gypsum fiber sheets, the frameless method is rarely used, but for the walls of residential premises, gypsum fiber boards are the most preferable option. Installation using this method is carried out in the following sequence:

1. If the walls are uneven up to 4 mm, the sheets must be glued directly to the surface of the walls using gypsum putty, which is applied in longitudinal ridges quite thin layer along the perimeter of the GVL slab, after which the sheet is glued to the wall.
2. If the unevenness is 4-20 mm, the sheets are laid using a special glue, for example, Perflix. The composition is applied to the surface of the gypsum fiber board in the middle and along the perimeter of the slab in increments of 30-35 centimeters.
3. If the unevenness is very large, from 20 to 40 mm, then installation is more difficult. First, with your own hands, using special glue, strips of gypsum fiber board with a width of 100 mm are glued to the surface of the walls, and only then the slabs themselves are glued to them using gypsum putty.

Installation using the frameless method is carried out as follows:

Scheme for attaching drywall with glue.

1. Installation must be carried out before the finishing layer is laid. flooring. The room temperature should be between + 10°C. The sheets themselves should be kept in the room where the installation will take place for two to three days before work. Humidity and temperature conditions must be maintained for the entire installation period; for very wet areas such as bathrooms, it is better to use plasterboard moisture-resistant boards.
2. If necessary, the walls must be prepared and cleaned of remnants of the old coating. If the surface delaminates, then strengthening measures should be taken. The wall is puttied, it must dry, after which installation can begin.
3. After the puttying is completed, it should be corrected using building level verticality of the walls, presence of unevenness (the choice of installation method depends on this). The location of the slabs is marked on the surface. If necessary, the walls are treated with a primer.
4. GVL slabs are cut out, holes are cut in them for switches and sockets. The height of each piece should be such that there is a gap of 8-12 mm at the bottom. After installing large slabs, small sections are installed below to bridge the gaps. To be on the safe side, the sheets can be screwed to the wall surface with self-tapping screws.
5. The GVL boards themselves are glued to the wall using special compounds according to the chosen method. This is done with a calibrating notched trowel; after applying the mixture, the sheet is leveled using a mallet. If you plan to mount any furniture on the wall surface, then glue must be applied to the entire surface of the gypsum plasterboard.
6. Apply the adhesive in an even layer and constantly ensure that the installation level is maintained at the same level. This is usually done using a stretched thread. The DIY installation itself starts from the corner. Gradually, the entire room is covered around the perimeter. To cover a wall made of wood, all sheets are additionally fastened with self-tapping screws or tar nails with very wide heads.

After laying gypsum fiber sheets on the walls of the room with your own hands, it is necessary to putty all joints and fastenings with nails so that the surface becomes perfectly flat. When the mixture has dried, you can begin further finishing.

Frame installation method

Scheme of fastening plasterboard to a metal frame.

The use of a frame for fastening is based on the use of metal or wooden profiles. If wooden slats are used, their cross-section for laying on the floor and ceiling should be no less than 30x50 mm; they are attached to the surface with screws; vertical posts should have a cross-section of 25x75 mm. The pitch of the racks should be no more than the width of one sheet of gypsum fiber board, 400-405 mm is recommended. GVL sheets They are attached to the frame with self-tapping screws in increments of 250 mm (with a width of one slab of 1200-1205 mm). To insulate the space between the frame posts with your own hands, you can lay glass wool.

Wall mounting technology GVL slabs requires compliance with the following conditions:

• The pitch of the screws should not be less than 250 mm.
• The length of the screw for fastening must be at least 30 mm.
• All slabs are installed with your own hands, starting from the middle of the room, in a perpendicular direction.
• A gap of 5-7 mm is left between adjacent slabs, which then needs to be puttied.

Installation metal frame not much different from using wooden slats, but is considered more reliable. Galvanized metal profiles with a thickness of 0.56-0.6 mm are used for this. The guide profile used is rack, corner, ceiling and ceiling guide.

Do-it-yourself assembly is carried out in this way:

1. First, the wall surface must be prepared, all remnants of the old coating must be removed. As a rule, the advantages of the frame method are that the wall does not need to be prepared, but many craftsmen advise puttingtying the surface before attaching the profile.
2. After this, they begin to install the frame, as vertical racks use ceiling profile, the guide is used for installation on the surface of the ceiling and floor. Before performing work, it is necessary to apply markings on the wall that will show exactly where to strengthen the profile. This must be done using a building level, a plumb line and a simple pencil.
3. For fastening, brackets are used, fixed to the racks with self-tapping screws; the joining of the guide and rack profiles is carried out with a cutter with a bend. The profile is attached to the ceiling with dowels in increments of 60 cm, but the increment may be smaller.
4. GVL sheets are mounted in a vertical direction; a small gap should be left between them, which must be puttied after installation.

When the installation of gypsum fiber sheets is completed, you should putty the surface of the slabs, completely sealing the joints of the sheets and the fastening points with self-tapping screws. For this purpose, ordinary gypsum putty is used. After all the work has been completed, you can use any finishing material for walls.

Gypsum fiber boards are perfect option for finishing walls indoors. Today the most various methods installation, including frame and frameless. That is, for installation, metal profiles and wooden slats can be used as a frame, or putty and special adhesive mixtures for frameless method. Choice suitable option depends on the condition of the walls, whether there is any curvature. In some cases, walls can only be puttied, in others, the use of a frame is required. The selection of options is entirely individual.

To plasterboard construction has acquired a finished look, it needs to be puttied. How to putty drywall, remove corners, seal joints - everything in this article.

Do I need to putty drywall?

Nobody wants to do extra work. In addition, putty is a long, difficult process that takes a lot of time. A reasonable question arises: why putty on a flat surface? plasterboard sheets. Maybe you can do without it during finishing? With some types of finishing it is possible, but not with all.

You should always seal sheet joints, corners and screw heads. For any type of finish. Be sure to putty the gypsum board before painting. The surface of the drywall is far from ideal, and new irregularities are added during transportation and installation. If you paint a surface without pre-leveling, they will all be clearly visible, especially if there is at least a slight degree of gloss.

Preparing drywall for wallpapering - you can only putty the seams, then prime the surface

The Knauf company, one of the leaders in the production of drywall, allows the entire surface of the sheets not to be puttied under tiles and wallpaper. Only joints, corners and screws. No one uses putty for laying tiles, but yes, for wallpaper. And all because wallpaper pasted without pre-treatment sometimes comes off along with the cardboard and sometimes even down to the plaster. So the second time, putty is simply inevitable.

You can avoid puttingty the entire surface of the sheet by using a primer. In this case, the soil is water-dispersed diluted with water. acrylic paint. It creates a film on the surface with which the glue interacts well, but this film also prevents the cardboard from being damaged when the wallpaper is torn off.

So, it is absolutely necessary to putty the drywall before painting, preferably before wallpapering (at least in one layer) and only seal the screws and seams under the tiles.

Primer for drywall: why, what and when

The primer performs two different functions. The first is that it improves the adhesion (adhesion) of two materials. As a result, when puttying, the chances of bubbles forming and material peeling are reduced. The second function is that it evens out absorbency. The result is less material consumption, and when puttying, a more even surface. So it is not advisable to skip the primer.

Prime at finishing works, in theory, it is necessary before each new operation. For example, before puttying, plasterboard sheets need to be primed to improve adhesion to the putty. Before painting or wallpapering - to reduce the consumption of paint and glue. You also need a primer before applying the finishing layer - the starting layer has to be leveled, which is why the surface turns out dusty. Without primer treatment, the finishing layer does not lay down well, rolls off and may even fall off.

What primers are needed? Depends on the stage and the type of finishing material:

• Before puttying gypsum board (starting and finishing layers), use a deep penetration primer or for porous, highly absorbent surfaces.
• The same composition can be used before painting and wallpapering.
• The putty surface of the gypsum board can be primed under the wallpaper. wallpaper glue, diluted with water. The proportions are indicated on the glue package.
• When painting, you need to look at the manufacturers' recommendations. Sometimes the primer is paint diluted with water. If there are no other instructions, use a deep penetration composition.

To summarize, it is worth saying that priming is a necessary operation. It allows you to get good result and reduce material consumption.

Technology: sequence of work

After the gypsum board sheets are fixed to the frame, it is time to prepare the drywall for finishing. Consider the case with full cycle- for painting. In this case, the drywall must be puttied in at least two layers. For other types of finishing that are less demanding on surface quality, we simply remove unnecessary steps. The order of work is as follows:

A few words about which putty is best to use for gypsum board. Any one will do - gypsum or polymer based (latex). Polymer putties are usually finishing - they provide a very thin layer and a smooth surface. There are both starting and finishing plaster ones. Difference in particle size. You can use any, as long as the quality is good.

There are two forms of drywall putty - dry in bags and diluted in buckets. Before use, dry mixture must be diluted with water in the indicated proportions and stirred until lumps dissolve. Compositions in buckets are already ready for use, but are more expensive. But they are guaranteed to have no lumps.

Primer coating

Before you putty the drywall, prime the surface. Any primer is applied to a dry, clean base. Therefore, we first remove dirt from the surface and remove dust (you can use a vacuum cleaner or a slightly damp cloth). After this, prepare the soil according to the instructions (sometimes you need to dilute it with water, sometimes you just need to stir it), pour it into a container and apply it with a brush or roller.

Drywall primer is available for dry and wet areas. For the bathroom and kitchen, choose soil for wet rooms; for the rest, you can use any soil. When choosing soil, pay attention to the presence of antibacterial components. They prevent the development of mold and fungi. This is especially true for the kitchen and bathroom.

Name	Consumption	Purpose	Drying time	Additional properties	Price
Penetrating primer Optimum (10 l)	6-8 sq.m/l	For priming brick, concrete, plasterboard in dry rooms.	30-40 min		600 rub for 10 kg
GLIMS Grunt (10 l)	5 sq.m/l	For rooms with normal and high humidity	30 minutes		600 rubles for 10 l
Tex Universal acrylate primer	5-14 sq.m/l		30-40 min	For dry rooms and rooms with high humidity	650 rub for 10 l
Internal primer Prospector 10l	5-10 sq.m/l	For priming porous surfaces, including plasterboard and putty surfaces	60 min	Anti-fungal and anti-mold additives	350-400 rubles for 10 l
Feidal Tiefgrund LF 10 l	10 sq.m./l	For highly absorbent surfaces, including drywall	quick-drying	For indoor and outdoor use, frost-resistant	850 rub for 10 l

Usually, for priming drywall, it is enough to apply the composition in one layer, but in the kitchen or bathroom you can use two: to guarantee the result. After the soil has dried (the time indicated in the instructions), you can proceed to the next stage.

Sealing screws and seams

For seams there is special compounds Knauf-Fugen, Knauf Uniflot, Fugenfuller and their analogues. After the soil has dried, dilute the putty to the consistency of thick sour cream. Please note that these putties dry quickly, so dilute a small amount at a time.

We take a small spatula, apply the composition to the places where the screws are installed, and remove the excess. There should be just enough putty in this place so that the surface is even. This way we go through all the screws. They can be sealed parallel to the seams, or they can be sealed first. It doesn't matter.

The principle of working with putty is that a roller of the compound is placed on the edge of the spatula, then it is stretched in the right place

There are two types of drywall joints. Along the long side of the gypsum board, the edges are uneven - for easier sealing of this joint. But the sheets are also connected in height, where there are no ledges. You also have to cut the sheets and the joint is also end-to-end. Such connections require special technology, which will be discussed below.

Vertical joints

When puttingtying vertical joints of drywall with normal factory edges, they are first carefully filled and then glued.

After filling, while the composition is still wet, it is glued with a sickle mesh or paper reinforcing tape. This is necessary so that cracks do not form at the joints. If tape is used, it is torn into the required pieces and soaked in clean water for 10 minutes (while the seam is being filled).

Having filled the seam, take out the tape, hold it between your fingers, remove excess water, and glue it to the seam. Then take a spatula 8 cm wide (this is a must) and press the tape below the surface of the gypsum board. She “sits” on one of the factory ledges. They begin to press from the middle to the edges. When pressed, the putty is squeezed out from under the tape; we collect it. As a result, if you apply a wide, hard spatula (at least 20 cm wide) to the surface, you can see that the tape is below the surface of the cardboard. Then they go through putty again, leveling the joint level with the surface.

Trimmed seams

It is better to putty plasterboard in places of horizontal joints - where two slabs are connected or on vertical ones, but without edges, after pre-treatment. First, the surface is moistened with water - dip the brush in water and coat the joint well. Walk several times until the plaster gets wet. Then sharp knife cut grooves at an angle of 45°. These joints can be treated before priming. It's even more convenient.

We coat the prepared joints with primer. In this case, it is more convenient to use a brush. After drying, fill the seam with a composition for puttying drywall joints. It is more convenient to work with spatulas 10 cm wide and hard 20 cm. Apply the composition with a small one, and remove the excess with a large one. Fill well, pressing the composition into the seam. If you did everything correctly, a small roller will form, slightly protruding above the surface.

Once again we go through the seam, applying fresh putty about 0.5 mm thick, take the soaked reinforcing tape and glue it to this compound. Use a spatula 8 cm wide and press the tape well onto the surface, squeezing out the excess putty from underneath it.

In this case, a wave of paper is formed (you can see it in the photo), we make sure that it does not wrinkle, we catch it to the end, where it straightens out. Remove excess solution into the tape and adjacent area of ​​the sheet. And the last stage - again take the putty and coat the pasted tape on top with a thin layer. We make this layer as thin as possible, as they say - “to tear off”. Actually, we stretch the remaining putty in a very thin layer.

Second technology: first tape then putty

There is a second technology - first, serpyanka or paper reinforcing tape is glued onto the plaster, then it is puttied. This works faster, but the disadvantage is the voids that remain under the tape. In these places, the wallpaper may wrinkle or the putty or decorative plaster may crack.

More instead paper tape use serpyanka mesh. Serpyanka is more difficult to work with - it is rigid and its edges often stick out from the mortar. To make it a little easier, the mesh is pre-glued, and after the glue has completely dried, it is puttied. In order not to think about glue and speed up the work, use a self-adhesive serpyanka (there is such a thing).

But, anyway, it’s more difficult to putty drywall - its surface is uneven, the spatula “jumps” on the fibers and you get a small wave that is not at all easy to smooth out.

External and internal corners

External and internal corners are made using:

Paper and serpyanka are most often used to decorate internal corners - the junction of walls, as well as walls and ceilings. The technology is similar to seam sealing. A certain amount of putty is applied to the corner, paper or sickle is glued onto it, the reinforcing strip is pressed into the composition with a narrow spatula, and excess putty is removed. After this, they go through the corner again, applying a thin layer of putty on top.

Perforated corners are used to design external corners - slopes, protrusions, etc. First, a piece of the required length is cut. The metal is very thin, it can be cut even with ordinary large scissors, but if you have metal scissors, the work is easier. Edges are cut at an angle of 45° or less, rather than at 90°. So, when puttingtying drywall, the edge will not curl up.

On outside corner Putty is applied on both sides in small islands approximately every 10 cm (possibly in a checkerboard pattern). Press into the solution perforated corner, check whether its installation is vertical or horizontal, and correct it. Use a spatula to pick up excess mortar, aligning the edges in one plane with the surface of the sheet. Installed corner leave for a while - until the putty dries, then sand it, putty again if necessary.

What is different about the metal corner Sheetrock? Thin strips of metal are applied to paper base. They are more rigid than simple reinforcing paper, but it is more convenient to work with them than with conventional perforated ones, since due to the presence of paper the transition to plane is smoother.

Sanding seams and corners

If the layer is well leveled when sealing seams on drywall, sanding can be kept to a minimum. Why is it better to sand less? Because firstly, it’s long, and secondly, it’s dusty. Moreover, the dust is very fine, floats in the air for a long time and rises again from any movement. To reduce the amount of flying dust, wet rags, wet sawdust, etc. can be placed on the floor. Doors leading out of the room are covered with a wet cloth; it should be larger size doors - to prevent dust from flying into other rooms.

To begin with, you can go over it with a sharp, even spatula and cut off all the most protruding irregularities. Next is the sanding process. Since at this stage there is no need to clean the corners and seams to perfect smoothness, take a grinding mesh with a mesh size of 180-200 and wooden block. A mesh is attached to the block (you can use staples from it, but the staples should not stick out). This device levels the surface. When working, it is advisable to highlight it with oblique light - this way all the irregularities are more visible. But you can’t putty plasterboard under wallpaper so carefully.

One thing - it’s better to grind in a respirator and safety glasses. Gloves will be a good idea. The dust is very fine and penetrates literally everywhere. After the seams and corners are sanded, the surface is primed again. Moreover, all of it, since dust has also settled on the untreated areas, and it worsens adhesion.

The most inconvenient places for puttying and sanding are the inner corners. For the secrets of fast, high-quality grinding of corners, watch the following video.

How to putty drywall: level the planes

To putty surfaces, you will need a large spatula - with a blade of 40 cm or more and a narrow one - 10 cm. The first layer is applied with starting putty. It is laid in a layer of about 5 mm (maximum should be looked at in the instructions for specific putty) and hides all the irregularities. Dilute it with water until it becomes thick sour cream, stir thoroughly so that there are no lumps.

The technique for puttingtying the surface of drywall is simple: take a large spatula, at its end using a small spatula, lay out a roller of putty. We press the blade to the surface and stretch the composition. We repeat several times, filling some part of the wall or ceiling. Then we clean the blade and run it over the newly puttied surface, leveling it. You need to level it as carefully as possible - less time will be required for grinding.

When you have finished puttingtying the drywall, wait until it dries. Then you take a familiar tool - a block with a mesh - and smooth out all the flaws. Sanding is completed, remove the dust, and cover the surface again with a deep penetration primer. After drying, begin applying the second layer.

Next, you need to putty the drywall with a finishing compound. As they wrote, it can also be gypsum-based, like the starter one, or it can be polymer-based. Both are suitable, but some are more difficult to work with - they quickly begin to roll and harden.

The finishing putty is made more liquid and applied in a thinner layer. The application technique is the same, nothing changes. Besides the fact that it is more difficult to work with, it spreads worse, but you need to stretch it in a thin layer and quickly level it. Everything is much better with a primer, but without it, the bottom layer quickly draws moisture out of the fresh plaster and it begins to roll off. After application finishing putty again wait until everything dries, then begin to level. But this time they do not use a mesh - it leaves noticeable grooves, but sandpaper with fine grain. It is not so convenient to work with - it clogs quickly, but the surface is smooth. If you are preparing the surface for painting, we light it from below or from the side and you can use an LED lamp rather than an incandescent lamp - all flaws are visible. Even very small ones.

It is difficult to describe in words how to putty drywall - the movements are difficult to describe. In the video you can see how to hold the spatula, how to move it, how to apply or remove the solution. See the video for more details on the technology.