Scheme of external sewerage of a private house. Local sewage system of a country house. Composition of the sewer system

The question of installing a full-fledged bathroom in a private house faces every owner. Technologies make it possible to equip a household sewerage system without special investments, both material and temporary. And fewer and fewer residential private buildings remain with amenities in the yard. In this article we will look at such popular questions: what types and types of sewerage systems exist, do-it-yourself sewerage system in a house, what is a septic tank and how to make it, how to make a septic tank from concrete rings, what is a cesspool and how to make one, as well as related questions.

Types of sewerage for private households are divided into two parts.

For cottage villages or urban areas where the private sector is close to apartment buildings, sewerage for a private house is connected to centralized drainage collectors. This solution is convenient, since all the difficulties consist only in high-quality laying of sewer pipes to the insertion point. However, there is also negative side connecting a private house to the city sewer network - payment for sewerage services. For apartment buildings a tariff is established and the total volume of water disposal corresponds to the total amount of water consumed. Accounting is carried out according to the number registered, according to standards or according to water metering devices.

For a private home, where the lion's share of the water used is not drained into the sewer, charging based on water meter readings can significantly complicate life. To many this question may seem unimportant, but some owners strive for autonomy, which is why it remains relevant.

The traditional method of drainage in private houses is a cesspool, also known as a septic tank, also known as a sewer pit.

Before you start detailed manual for its creation and arrangement it is necessary to carry out everything plumbing work in the house.

Do-it-yourself sewer system in the house

Most private sector buildings have one floor. Where there are two of them, the bathroom is located on the first floor. Modern projects private buildings provide for the placement of plumbing on each floor, but all objects are adjacent to a common riser. As an example, consider the standard one-story building, where you need to install sewerage yourself.

So, you need to place a sink in the kitchen, a washbasin and a bathtub/shower in the bathroom, and a toilet in the toilet.

The bathroom and toilet can be combined or separate. In any case, the drainage for them will be common, therefore the distribution of drainage points in the room must be done in such a way that the distance to the “riser” (the main pipe with a diameter of 110 mm, which will discharge the wastewater to the street) is minimal.

According to design documents, the kitchen where the sink is located often has an adjacent wall with a bathtub or toilet. In this case, no difficulties arise. If the kitchen is remote from the main riser, it is necessary to lay a separate drain before connecting it to the riser. Depending on the situation, this can be done both in the perimeter of the house (the drain connection is included in the riser, which includes drains from the washbasin and bathtub/shower), and outside the perimeter (if the placement of the kitchen and bathroom does not allow the pipes to be connected in the perimeter, they are led outside boundaries of the house, where they can connect or enter the drainage pit separately).

The difficulties described above are caused by the fact that for high-quality water flow it is necessary to maintain the sewer slope, which is not always possible to do in situations where the distance from point to point is large. The slope of the sewer must be a certain percentage depending on the diameter of the pipe. See the sewer slope values ​​depending on the pipe diameter in the figure below.

Sewerage pipes are laid under the floor. Most buildings have wooden floors raised above ground level. The cavities under the floor are empty, which gives a lot of options for solving the problem. The slope is measured building level or marks on the masonry along which the pipe should pass. The assembled pipe spans are tested at intermediate stages by pouring water into the system and monitoring its drainage. It is important that even a small part does not stagnate anywhere, since a blockage will form there, which will be difficult to remove after laying the floor. Sewage slopes of more than 5% are permissible if this is dictated by the convenience of placing the system or the amount of space under the floor.

Final assembly

When the wastewater from each drainage point is brought to its final location, final assembly awaits. PVC pipes for sewerage have all the necessary elbows and adapters, as well as tees with various transitions, allowing you to join together drains from a sink, shower and washing machine. Next, the riser and toilet drain are combined. After completion of the work, a final high-load test is required to eliminate any leaks if any occur and to avoid blockages and water accumulation.

The sewage system is discharged beyond the perimeter of the house at a depth of at least 300 mm. It depends on the climatic characteristics of the region, as well as on the slope of the site, proximity groundwater, which affect the depth of the drain pit.

At each flush point, except the toilet, from flexible hose a bend is created in which a small amount of water is constantly standing, the so-called water seal, which prevents the penetration of unpleasant odors from the drain. If necessary, clearing the blockage in such a knee takes 10 minutes.

Drain system

It is this that becomes a stumbling block for many homeowners in matters of arrangement domestic sewerage in a private house. Technologies have significantly simplified the work with the contents of such pits, allowing them to go without maintenance for many years.
Domestic sewerage is divided into two types - septic tank and traditional drain hole.

Septic tank

A technological solution promoted in the construction of cottage communities and small country houses. They are a plastic or metal container that collects all waste and organic waste. It uses only its useful volume, which is partially increased by the use of microorganisms (septic) that process organic matter into gas (excreted through ventilation duct, does not harm the environment) and clean water (suitable for watering the area using a small pump). For a full-fledged residential building for a large family, large capacity models are offered.

The bottleneck of this type of sewerage is its price. The cost of the containers is quite high; moreover, it comes with transportation and installation, which must be carried out in compliance with the technology so that the container remains intact.

An advantage worth noting is that the septic tank can be installed in areas with high groundwater levels. The containers are sunk in dug holes, then loaded with a load so that flood water does not push them out of the ground.

Average service period at correct use and adequate saving of useful space is 2-5 years.

Septic tank made of concrete rings

One of the subtypes of a septic tank is a device made from factory-made concrete rings. This type of septic tank is quite popular, because... it is relatively cheap, fast and easy to install. Making a septic tank from concrete rings with your own hands is quite simple. To do this, dig a hole of sufficient depth. To cut off water, a layer of crushed stone is placed on the bottom.

Usually they put 3 one and a half meter rings on top of each other, then cover them with a lid with a hole. Another small ring is placed on this hole to provide access to the septic tank. This ring closes sewer hatch. The rings are fastened together cement mortar. If you are making a septic tank with an overflow, then you need to make 2 or 3 such pyramids of rings. The more overflow chambers, the cleaner water will be on the way out. The bottom in the first chamber is waterproofed and concreted. A hole is punched in the upper part of the upper large ring and a 110 mm pipe is inserted onto which tees are put on on both sides.

If you want to make 3 chambers, then we repeat the procedure with the hole and pipe, but place them just below the level of the overflow from the first chamber to the second. A pipe is taken from the last chamber to the drainage field, or the bottom is left open and large crushed stone is laid out on it. On the outside sides, the rings are filled with sand to cut off water. Do not forget to take the ventilation pipe out of the chambers to allow air access.

Video about a septic tank made of concrete rings

cesspool

It has been used for many decades without any complaints or particular problems. Even in areas with high groundwater levels that fill such pits during flood periods, a solution was found in the form of placing the pit at a shallow depth, but with a large area.

The location for placing the pit and draining the sewer from the house must be determined before the start of all work, since reorienting the system already installed under the floor will require recalculating the slopes and additional time.

The pipe leading from the house to the pit is deepened by 500 - 800 mm, if the water level allows. Otherwise, it is necessary to insulate it as much as possible and leave inspection windows (a special joint block with an opening lid) for convenient cleaning every 3 meters of the pipe length.

The average pit volume for this type of sewer is 5 cubic meters per adult. At the same time, you should not neglect organic septic tanks, which will allow you to do without pumping out the contents for decades.

We build a drainage pit

Having chosen a place, you need to determine linear dimensions and depth, dig a hole and carefully level the walls. The perimeter near the walls at the bottom is dug under the edge by 300 mm and deepens approximately 500 mm in depth. A small layer of crushed stone is placed on the bottom, then 2-3 rows of half-blocks without holes are laid on top of the solution. This will be the base for the walls cesspool.

Walls (only it can withstand the microenvironment for a long time), making gaps between bricks 20 - 25% of their length, starting from the 5-6th row. Water will drain out at these intervals, which will allow you to less frequently service the pit.

The masonry is not brought out to the edge of the pit, but with a shortfall of 400 mm. The main thing is that the sewer outlet pipe is completely lined.

At the bottom of the pit, medium crushed stone is laid out in a layer up to 200 mm thick; on top it can be reinforced with stones collected from slag heaps, similar to pumice for feet. This trick allows you to pump out the pit even less often, since microorganisms that absorb organic matter develop well in the pores of such drainage.

The overlap can be anything, from a shaped finished reinforced concrete slab to a self-poured product. This product is created from flat slate or galvanized sheet laid on top of the masonry edge. The future ceiling should protrude at least 250 - 300 mm beyond the edges of the masonry. Reinforcement from rods is laid on top. A mesh made of reinforcement with a diameter of 8-10 mm with a cell of 20 by 20 cm will be sufficient. The lower edge of the mesh must be raised from the base by at least 20 mm (it is better to lay it on stones or protective layer clamps). We build formwork on the sides of the reinforcement and fill everything with a 100 - 200 mm layer of concrete.

If the linear dimensions are large, a support made of brick or cast iron pipe on which the ceilings rest.

It is imperative to leave a hatch to allow access to the pit, as well as to pump it out if necessary.

An excellent solution would be to make the upper edge of the ceiling below ground level and fill the space around the hatch with turf.

It is imperative to leave an outlet pipe for ventilation (standard PVC sewer pipe). Many people make gazebos or parking places for cars. But in this case, the reinforcement and the slab above the pit must be seriously strengthened.

We hope you have understood the basics of plumbing in your home. If you still have questions, ask them in the comments to the article, we will definitely answer them.

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Have own house- This is the dream of many people. There is nothing better than your own corner, provided with all the amenities. However, everyone wants to surround themselves with comfort, and outdoor toilet, along with the need to carry water from a well, are becoming a thing of the past. In this regard, the question became relevant: “How to create a sewerage system in a private house with your own hands?”

Creating a sewer system for a private home is not as difficult as it seems

Before starting construction, you need to decide on the type of sewerage system in a private house. With your own hands you can create several varieties that will have their own pros and cons.

The most popular varieties are:

• Drain well. Simply put, an ordinary pit that accumulates all waste and wastewater. Such a structure is inexpensive and does not take much time to construct. The sequence of actions is simple - dig a hole at a distance of twenty meters from the house. The calculation of its volume is based on indicators of 0.7 cubic meters per person. To strengthen walls it is recommended to use brickwork or concrete rings. After this, for additional sealing, the seams are coated with bitumen. The bottom of the pit can be filled with concrete so that wastewater does not poison the soil. Upon completion of construction, install a hatch for subsequent removal of liquid. This is the simplest sewerage scheme in private houses, created by the owner with his own hands. However, such an arrangement is more relevant for country houses than for a full-fledged living space;

• No less known method is digging in a closed container. This structure operates on the same principle as a drainage pit. A special tank is buried in the ground, the volume of which is calculated according to the number of people living. The main waste lines are connected to the tank hatch. Drain water accumulates in the tank without polluting surrounding area. A significant disadvantage of this method is the need for constant cleaning.

• A septic tank is difficult to construct, but at the same time the most reliable sewer system in a private house, the layout, depth of filling and components of which can guarantee effective operation for many years. During construction, it is necessary to choose a suitable location for the future well. The distance from the house should not be less than twenty meters. Next, the walls of the pit are securely reinforced with bricks; the recommended masonry thickness is twenty-five centimeters. We carefully concrete the bottom, after which we proceed to laying the drain. Place its level above the water. Do not forget to provide a hole through which the liquid will be removed.

Helpful information! You should decide which option to choose based on the funds you expect to spend during construction. The examples given differ in both the high cost of the elements and the time required.

In addition, installing a sewer system in a private house with your own hands depends on the layout of the home and the number of people regularly living in it. Experts recommend placing rooms such as the kitchen, bathroom and toilet nearby. This configuration makes it possible to allocate a single collector for their maintenance, through which the waste liquid will flow into a septic tank or waste pit.

If the house turns out to be too large, and its layout involves a significant distance between the kitchen and other rooms with drainage, it will be required. It is necessary to take care of separate drainage, and also provide the possibility of pumping drain water. Owners should take care to install risers to provide water to the upper rooms.

Related article:

In the article we will look at options for drainage installation, how to do it reliable system do it yourself, the average cost of specialist work.

Components that make up a sewer system for private houses with your own hands

The drainage system consists of basic elements, each of which performs its own functions. The first place on the list is occupied by the communications of the premises. Pipes and hoses located in rooms and performing the function of drainage. Laid in rooms with running water, at the outlet they are combined by a collector, through which the waste liquid leaves.

Next, the main functions are taken over by external communications. A pipeline installed outdoors is most often dug into the ground or protected by a casing. Separate drains from utility rooms can be connected to it, for example. The main task of this unit is to deliver wastewater to the receiving device.

The final stage in the chain is a storage tank, the main function of which is to store water and other waste. Depending on the complexity of the system, the receiving device can either simply be filled with water or filter sewage.

Do-it-yourself sewer installations in private houses: video tips and more

At the first stage, you should carefully examine the soil layer for special characteristics. When looking for a site for installing a drain well, you need to pay attention to:

• Slopes, potholes and other natural depressions on your site;
• Free access for vehicles to clean the storage tank;
• Distance from utility buildings and fences.

In most cases country houses They are used seasonally and do not live there regularly. Therefore, do-it-yourself sewerage in private houses can get by with a small receiving tank.

Helpful information! If you adhere to sanitary building standards, the waste pit must be located at a distance of at least five meters from other buildings. Experienced builders It is recommended to increase this distance as much as possible to isolate the house from unpleasant odors.

It is best to dig a hole in a low-lying area of ​​the surface, thereby providing a natural slope for drainage. Try to avoid such an arrangement to prevent accidents.

This video will help you understand how to draw up a diagram and plan for a drainage system:

Selection of parts and fittings for sewerage

The next step in construction is the selection of components. The durability and quality of operation of the entire system will depend on the quality of the fittings and other parts you choose.

When going to a specialized store, you need to know that the pipeline is divided into external and internal. The first combines high conductivity, resistance to high and low temperatures, as well as chemical and biological substances. These communications must allow water to pass freely and be hermetically connected to the outlet manifold.

The external pipeline has the same qualities, with the addition of specific features. Its surface can withstand the load of the earth, because such communications are buried to a depth of two meters. In addition, these pipes are absolutely sealed and meet international technical parameters.

When choosing communications, pay attention to the material from which they are made. The following types exist:

• Cast iron;

• Steel;

• Copper;

• Reinforced concrete;

• Asbestos-cement;

• Ceramic;

• Plastic.

Each material has specific characteristics suitable for certain conditions.

In addition to the main "arteries" important have fittings. These parts are used to connect laid pipes into a drainage system.

For execution various functions There are such varieties as:

• Couplings - used to connect pipe sections;

• Reductions – for connecting ends of different diameters;

• Inspections - to remove blockages and dirt;

• Tees - for creating branches;

It is increasingly rare to hear the phrase “outdoor amenities” in the private sector. This is not surprising - after all, every person strives for comfort. However, it is out of the question if on a frosty night, waking up, you have to get dressed and run through the snow to a cabin located 15 meters from your home. So home craftsmen equip latrines directly in the house. But in order for them to function normally, it is necessary to properly install a sewage disposal system into a septic tank located on the street. Today we will look at how to install a sewer system in a private house with our own hands. We will also consider the diagram of its structure, and along the way we will find out the cost of such work when performed by specialists.

Read in the article:

How to correctly draw up a diagram of a sewerage system in a private house with your own hands

When starting to draw up a sewerage diagram for a private house, you need to decide on the number of drain points. It should be understood that if there are two floors in a residential building, the circuit of each is mounted, as planned, separately, with subsequent output to a common riser leading to the septic tank.

Having only one riser is unacceptable only in the case of installing a swimming pool or sauna - a separate drain will need to be installed for them.

Important! Its performance and ease of installation will depend on the completeness and correctness of the do-it-yourself sewerage diagram for a private house. The plan must indicate the length of all pipes - this will help to correctly calculate the amount of material.

Problems you may encounter during design

The main difficulty in drawing up a project may be the introduction of a sewer pipe into the house. To do this, you will have to break through the foundation or install special pumps. Their installation will also be necessary when installing a bathroom in the basement or basement. At the same time, it won’t hurt special installation, capable of crushing organic matter. The sewage pump together with the blade assembly is called a multi-lift.

Expert opinion

VK design engineer (water supply and sewerage) LLC "ASP North-West"

“If the house is under construction, then regardless of whether a toilet is planned inside the house or not, it is worth installing a sewer pipe into the foundation. To begin with, you can simply turn it off. If you need to install sewerage, it will be very useful.”

When designing, the number of residents must be taken into account. This indicator will directly affect both the volume of the septic tank and the diameter sewer pipes, which will be used during installation of the system. Do not forget about the depth of soil freezing - the system must be in the ground below this mark.

What types of sewerage systems exist?

The main types can be called:

1. Dry toilets. This format is not very common in private homes. It is more suitable for a summer residence where there is no need for a constantly functioning sewer system.
2. cesspool– the easiest to install and does not require high costs option. Its inconvenience is that it requires periodic pumping using special equipment, and this is not a cheap pleasure.
3. Septic tank- the most common version of the sewerage system. Waste products are processed using live bacteria and microorganisms or by adding them to a container chemical substances that decompose organic waste.

The construction of a septic tank cannot be called cheap, but it allows you to do without pumping for a long time. The main task is to add the necessary substances in time. As for the sewerage system itself for a private house, it will be the same for both the cesspool and the septic tank.

Do-it-yourself sewerage in a private house: diagram and its main components

When drawing up a project for laying a sewer system in a private house, you should mark on the diagram the location of plumbing fixtures, such as a sink or. All pipes are also taken into account (their length and diameter are indicated in the plan), connections, corners and branches. Data is entered on the location of the riser and its outlet to the septic tank.

If you describe all the parameters in detail, you can install the entire system much faster and with better quality. The plan, after installing the sewer system, must be saved. It can help in case of blockages or other emergency situations.

When drawing up a sewerage diagram for a private one-story house (as well as buildings with several floors), it is important to think about the installation locations for cleaning systems - special branches with plugs that will help get rid of blockages. Do not forget about calculating the slope of the highway. If the slope is weak, the drain will be ineffective, and if it is excessive, grease and dirt will settle on the walls, which will eventually lead to emergency situation. Let's try to figure out how to draw up a diagram correctly sewer system.

Drawing up a sewer system diagram

The first thing you need to do is draw a floor plan of all the premises of the building. It is more convenient if such a diagram is available - quite often during construction, just such diagrams are drawn up. In this case, it can be copied and sewer routes can be “laid” along it. Having indicated the installation points of plumbing fixtures, we begin measurements. Every millimeter can play a role here.

Important! When installing thinner pipes (for example, from a sink), if they are longer than necessary, there is a danger of them being bent. In this case, the water will stagnate, which will lead to a build-up of grease and dirt and clog.

If possible, it is better to place all plumbing fixtures in close proximity to the riser - this will allow sewerage to be carried out with the greatest efficiency. All tie-ins into the riser are indicated. A prerequisite is to connect the toilet flush directly to the main pipe, without additional connections. Bathroom and sink drains can be combined - this will save material and get rid of extra pipes and tie-ins into the main riser.

What diameter should the pipes be?

The diameter of the pipe is selected based on the number of residents and the planned intensity of use of the system. However, there are generally accepted norms. So the diameter of the main riser directly to the septic tank is usually 100-110 mm. The toilet flush has the same diameter. But from the sinks and the bathroom there are thinner pipes. Most often, a diameter of 50 mm is used for such purposes. This thickness will be quite sufficient.

All connections and taps must be made at an angle of 450. If the angle of the sewer pipe is even, it is this point that will periodically become clogged.

When installing a sewer system, it should be understood that the riser must go to the roof, from where air will enter. Let's consider what will happen if there is no air access and the upper part of the riser is plugged, using the example two-story house. Everyone knows that there is a hydraulic lock in the toilet that prevents the smell from the system from entering the room. If there is no free access to air, we flush the water in the toilet on the first floor. Due to rarefaction, water is “pulled out” from plumbing fixture second floor. The hydraulic lock is open, all the smell from the sewer system rushes into the living quarters.

How can you improve sewer efficiency?

The quality of operation of an autonomous sewer system can be improved both by installing additional equipment and purely by installation parameters. To do this, you just need to correctly distribute the slope of the highways. A slope of 3 cm/m is considered the most effective. But for greater efficiency of the sewer system, you can increase this parameter to 4-5 cm/m. This will be quite enough for efficient work system and is not enough for the rapid formation of grease or dirt deposits on internal walls pipes

Very effectively fights deposits on the walls modern means. But you shouldn’t expect a miracle from them if a serious blockage occurs. Advertising may claim that the product can easily cope with any of them, but this is not entirely true. In fact, such products are good for periodic prevention. If the pipe is already thoroughly clogged, then there is nothing better than a good old cable.

Speaking about additional equipment, one cannot fail to note the benefits in preventing blockages of such equipment as a household waste disposer under the sink. It prevents large scraps and other debris from entering the sewer pipe. Everything that goes down the drain after grinding has the consistency of liquid porridge, which is not capable of clogging the main line.

How to properly install a sewer system in a private house: stages of work

All work on arranging the sewer system of a private house is carried out in several stages. There is no need to perform them without interruption, which means that installation can be carried out in free time During a long time. However, according to professionals, such work rarely drags on - as soon as the arrangement begins, the home master tries to complete everything as quickly as possible. Let's look at the steps that need to be completed step by step. The algorithm of actions should be like this:

• We calculate the required volume of the septic tank;
• install and equip the tank;
• we lay a line from the septic tank to the house;
• We carry out internal wiring of sewer pipes and connect them into a system;
• We connect plumbing equipment.

By following this procedure and simple rules for carrying out work, you can be sure that the system will work flawlessly. Let's look at each step in more detail.

How to calculate the required volume of a septic tank for a private house

The calculation can be made empirically: To do this, you need to sum up the entire water consumption of the family living in the house. However, if the sewerage system is installed during the construction of a residential building, this method is unacceptable. Then you can take the average values ​​recommended by SanPiN. However, it is much easier to use the specially designed calculator below:

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The average data is shown in the table below:

Number of residents	Average water consumption, m3/day	Required container volume, m3
3	0,6	1,5
4	0,8	1,9
5	1,0	2,4
6	1,2	2,9
7	1,4	3,4
8	1,6	3,9
9	1,8	4,4
10	2,0	4,8

Many may wonder why the volume of the septic tank is 3 times greater than the daily wastewater flow. The answer is quite simple. Almost all models of septic tanks installed in our country are designed for three-day processing of organic waste. The same applies to chemicals or live bacteria that are added there. It turns out that three days is exactly the period of time that is necessary for the complete processing of human waste products. Hence the tripled values.

Related article:

From our materials you will learn the device, operating principle, location requirements, secrets independent equipment treatment facilities for a private home, as well as advice and recommendations from experts.

Installation of the tank and equipment for it

More often, home craftsmen turn to specialists for help in installing a septic tank. However, there is nothing overly complicated in this work.

Having chosen a place in the yard and dug a pit, you need to lay a reinforced concrete slab on its bottom, to which the container is secured using cables. If the groundwater level is high enough, then a drainage pipe is first dug into the bottom of the pit and led outside the site into the nearest drainage ditch. Installation of septic tank ventilation is also required. It works as follows. A pipe with a diameter of 50 mm is led from the ventilation hole, which runs underground at an angle of about 4-5 m. At the outlet, an elbow of 450 is installed and then the pipe rises to a height of 3-4 m. This allows for good traction and eliminates unpleasant odors in the courtyard.

In the place where sewage will be drained into the tank, a piece of pipe with a diameter of 100-110 mm is installed (the size depends on the model of the septic tank and the diameter of the planned riser). The septic tank itself is buried underground, outside, above the ground, only a small part of it remains (often just the neck) which is insulated.

Laying a sewer line from the septic tank to the house

To lay pipes, it is necessary to dig a trench at least 60 cm deep. In some regions of Russia, where the climate is colder, this parameter should be greater. In any case, the sewer line must be below the ground freezing level. It is best to fill the trench with river sand or sand and gravel mixture (SGM). After laying the main line, it is also backfilled. It turns out that the pipe is inside the sand cushion. Next, the ASG is compacted a little, and ordinary soil is poured on top.

Important! The pipe from the house to the septic tank must go downhill. The optimal spread is 4-5 cm/m. This will allow the sewage not to linger inside, but to go into the container with the greatest efficiency.

How to do the internal sewerage installation in a private house with your own hands

Sewerage installation in a private house is done in strict accordance with the project, which was already discussed in our article. To make it easier for the dear reader to understand this issue, we suggest looking at several photo examples with comments.

Illustration	Action to be performed
	First, we mark the places where the sewer pipes will pass. It's best to do this by laser level to ensure the required slope of the highway.
	Now those places that will be in plain sight should be grooved to hide the sewer pipes in the grooves. But this can only be done if the thickness of the wall allows.
	Having cut through the wall along the marks, we knock out the excess concrete (or foam concrete) using a hammer drill with a spatula.
	Where the wall will not be grooved, we drill holes with the same hammer drill and install special clamps that will hold the pipe.
	We cut plastic pipes to size. This can be done either with a grinder or with a simple hacksaw.
	Having lubricated the internal rubber compressor, insert the edge of the angle or pipe into the socket of another piece. The connection is quite tight and airtight.
	In the same way, we assemble the entire line up to the main riser, which goes to the septic tank
	The part that is not recessed into the groove is secured to previously prepared clamps.
	Do not forget that finishing work will continue. Special plugs on the pipes will prevent construction waste from getting inside.
	All that remains is to connect the line to the main riser. The rest of the branches of the sewer system of a private house are installed in a similar way.

Having figured out how to properly install a sewer system in a private home, you can move on to installing plumbing fixtures. But first, a few tips on connecting plastic pipes to each other.

Connecting plastic sewer pipes: some nuances

The quality of sewerage installation in a private house depends on the correctness of the connections between the pipes. To do this, you need to purchase a special silicone-based lubricant. It should not be confused with silicone sealant– such compositions are not needed in such work.

If you look inside the bell, you can see rubber sealing ring. It is quite enough to seal the system. However, it is easy to damage when connecting pipes to each other. Even if the O-ring moves a little, over time the connection will begin to leak, and no one wants that. To prevent this problem, silicone lubricant is used. After applying it, the pipes fit into one another without any problems, creating a reliable and hermetic connection.

Article

To ensure a quality standard of living in your country house care must be taken to ensure convenient drainage of used water and waste products. A properly calculated sewer system at the design stage and subsequently installed in a private home is the key to long and trouble-free operation. You can install such a structure yourself, with your own hands, if you approach this issue thoroughly. The design of the house plays a key role in drawing up the scheme internal pipeline, but to lay external sewer networks you need to adhere to several rules.