A guide to making your own miter saw. Making a miter saw with your own hands Homemade wood miter saw

A miter saw is the same circular cutting saw based on a regular circular saw. It allows you to cut almost all materials – from plastic to metal – with great precision at the required angle. Such a tool costs from the manufacturer, that is, finished form, is not cheap, and assembling it yourself is not so difficult. Therefore, if you have an urgent need for a miter saw, and your hands grow out of the right place, further information will be very helpful.

Interesting! By assembling the tool with your own hands, any craftsman can easily find the cause of the breakdown and eliminate it, which will additionally save money.

A miter saw consists of several essential elements

• the cutting disc itself;
• a handle to hold and guide the tool;
• engine;
• footrest with start button.

Important! Regardless of the manufacturer, such a tool is always equipped with a durable disk, which makes it so versatile in use. If we set out to assemble the cross-cutting machine ourselves, then we buy the disk ourselves, and therefore do not forget that it is better not to save money in this matter, but to choose the most durable disk and precisely for such needs. Native disk from circular saw quite suitable.

Let's get to the heart of the matter: you have a circular saw and you are assembling a homemade miter saw. The first three points are already present in the circular saw itself, and the fourth may not be needed if you skillfully assemble the guide bar for the saw.

How to make a miter saw

For this you will need

• plywood sheet;
• aluminum corners;
• self-tapping screws

Let's start assembling

1. We cut out a rectangular sheet of plywood and make a long cut on it along which your trim will ride;
2. We screw two guides on top, for example, from an aluminum angle, to the width of the working plane of the circular itself;
3. Bottom to plywood sheet you need to screw two stands with a height equal to the cutting depth of your saw (5.3 cm).

As a result, we get a guide along which the circular will move. Depending on how we fix it on the table using this simple mechanism, we can make precise cuts at any angle. The simplest version of the design is ready.

But what if we want our miter saw to be more functional in operation and look like a factory miter saw? In this case, you will have to show more ingenuity.

1. First, you need to make a bracket and a stand on which the circular will be attached. Chipboard (27 mm) is an excellent raw material for such a mechanism. Using self-tapping screws and aluminum corners, you will get a very decent upper part of the trim. And the springs attached to the top can make working on such a saw more convenient;
2. Secondly, you need to fix the tripod itself on a movable rotating stand, make pendulum saw, thanks to which we will eventually be able to change the facing angle.

Carefully! Not only the quality of work and functionality of the trim, but also your personal safety will depend on what material you choose for the stand and tripod, and how securely you attach them to the stand. No wonder they say that « if the carpenter is experienced, then he is definitely without a finger » . Secure the circular as securely as possible! Safety is paramount!

As for the trim itself, everything is said about the assembly. However, if we decide to make a saw that looks like a factory saw, then it will be difficult to do without a table.

How to make a miter saw table with your own hands

A good material for a table would be a 19mm MDF board.

1. Measure the depth and width of the entire structure (miter saw);
2. Now measure the width and depth of the workbench on which the table and the trim itself will stand;
3. Eventually Bottom part a table made of MDF board should be equal to the width and depth of the workbench, and the top one should consist of two parts and in total be shorter in length by the width of the miter saw;
4. The height of the table should be equal to the depth of the cut;
5. Inside the table (between the top and bottom plates) at a distance of 50 cm, it is important to make rigid partitions from the same MDF board. This is necessary so that when pressed the table does not sag.

That's all for sure now. The miter saw from a regular circular saw is ready.

Interesting! A miter saw is a rather dangerous piece of equipment in itself, and if you also assembled it... with my own hands, the danger of such a mechanism can increase significantly! On the other hand, by assembling all the parts yourself and taking care of all kinds of protective boxes and casings, you can reduce the risk to a minimum. In this case, the rule applies: « Your safety – only in your hands » .

All photos from the article

It’s probably not worth explaining what a circular saw is, but not everyone knows such a term as a miter saw (or miter saw). Carpenters, joiners and craftsmen who deal with finishing and repair are well acquainted with these tools, because without them it is almost impossible to quickly make precise cuts in wood at given angles.

Trimmings are universal tool in terms of the material being processed. In addition to wood, they can process metal, plastic and foam. This is determined by the type of cutting blade installed. Therefore, this tool is also called a “metal and wood miter saw.”

By the way: if you want to build a house made of wood, do not forget that you need protection for the ends wooden house from fluctuations in humidity with paint or impregnation.

Wood miter saws and their design

Broach saws

A miter saw with the ability to move the saw horizontally not only around the hinge axis, but also along the cutting line in a straight line is called a miter saw with horizontal movement. Such products are also called “wood broach miter saws.” In the photo behind the electric motor two horizontal rods are visible. These are the guides for horizontal movement.

Almost all miter saws come with dust bags. There is also the possibility of connecting a dust removal system. How to do this - describes factory instructions included with the equipment.

Interestingly, making a miter saw on wood yourself is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. After all, the design principle itself is quite simple. If desired, craftsmen can even make a full-fledged cross-cutting machine. Below are devices made by yourself.

But, in our opinion, it is still better not to take risks and give preference to factory designs.

Characteristics and types of cutting discs

The following basic parameters will help you choose a good blade for a wood miter saw. And although experts say that choosing it perfectly is a whole science, we will still try to figure it out.

So, the disks may vary:

• By type of material;
• By the number of cutting teeth;
• By diameter;
• By type of teeth;
• By the angle of the teeth;
• According to the permissible rotation speed.

Now - a little more detail.

Material type: solid and carbide

1. Monolithic discs are made of one material; they are considered not very reliable, as they quickly become dull. But they are repairable and allow you to sharpen them yourself.
2. The carbide disc has plates of a durable alloy, mainly tungsten carbide, at the tips of the teeth.. Such discs have earned the greatest popularity due to their reliability and high deadline services. However, their price is noticeably higher than that of monolithic ones.

Number of cutting teeth on the disk

1. small quantity: 10 - 40 pcs.
2. average: 40 - 80 pcs.
3. a large number of: 80 – 90 pcs.

The number of teeth affects two factors: cutting speed and cut quality. A large number of teeth will provide a cleaner cut, although the cutting speed will be much slower. A small number of teeth will ensure high speed cut, but the quality of the cut will be rough.

Diameter

1. external varies from 190 to 355 mm;
2. internal (landing) can take values ​​16, 20, 22, 30, 32 mm.

One of the most popular sizes is 185 mm.

The outer diameter mainly affects the depth of cut. Accordingly, it is recommended to select the outer diameter of the disk depending on the thickness of the material being processed.

Attention!
The inner diameter of the disk must match the diameter of the mounting pin.

Types of teeth

The following options are possible:

1. replacement tooth;
2. trapezoidal tooth;
3. concave tooth;
4. flat tooth with a chamfer.

Now - a little more detail about the purpose of each type.

1. Replaceable tooth: processed material - hard and soft wood, plywood, MDF, chipboard.
2. Trapezoidal tooth: suitable for cutting massive materials, plastics, chipboard, wood, non-ferrous metals (brass, copper).
3. Concave tooth: mainly for cutting single- and double-layer coated boards, abrasive materials, laminate.
4. Flat tooth with bevel: for rough longitudinal cuts in wood. Such discs are not afraid of either nails or hardened cement.

Tooth angle

1. positive tilt angle: from 5 to 20 degrees;
2. negative: mostly "-5" degrees;
3. zero: 0 degrees (strictly along the radius).

A wood miter blade with a positive bevel is best used for longitudinal and cross cutting of wood. Negative or zero tilt angles are recommended for working with more hard materials, for example, metals.

Rotation frequency

It could be like this:

1. small: 3800 rpm - 6000 rpm;
2. average: 6200 rpm - 9000 rpm;
3. high: 15200 rpm - 23800 rpm.

Attention!
The number of revolutions indicated on the disk must be greater than the permissible rotation speed of the miter saw shaft.
This directly affects work safety.

Conclusion

I think from this short review you learned how to choose a crosscut tool and choose the right disc for it. In the video presented in this article you will find Additional information on this topic. Good luck!

To efficiently cut a small piece of wood, a regular one will do. Circular Saw. But when this operation is repeated many times, very precise processing of the ends of workpieces of identical dimensions is required. For this purpose, it is best to use a wood cross-cutting machine.

It's more complex device than a simple circular saw. It allows you to trim wooden surfaces saws in which two main characteristics can be changed: the number of teeth and the diameter of the processing disk.

Main components of a cross-cutting machine

Using a cross-cutting machine, you can cut workpieces from various materials– plastic, metal, wood. The maximum weight of the unit is about 30 kg or less depending on the functions it performs. Cross-cutting machines are most widely used in woodworking.

Trimming machines wooden blanks consist of several main units.

Firstly, this is a table. For correct operation of the machine, the table must be installed on a stable support frame. To perform complex operations that differ from each other in the nature of the impact on the wood, rotating mechanisms and various positioners.

A saw unit is required. It consists of a shaft and a cutting disk attached to it using a drive. Several saw units can be installed on the frame for simultaneous processing different places on the workpiece. The unit consists of an electric motor and a torque transmission unit to the shaft.

The mechanism for moving the saw unit along the structure can be simple (assembled from shock-absorbing springs and brackets) or complex (hydraulic or pneumatic automatic). Its functionality is significantly expanded if you add a mechanism that allows you to extend the cutting disc at an angle to the workpiece.

In addition to the main components, the cross-cutting machine is equipped with auxiliary devices, devices, programming units, simple or complex systems to remove chips.

Characteristics and types of equipment

Woodworking cross-cutting machines have a range of general characteristics. With their help, it is easy to select the unit that the best way suitable for the specific process. These general characteristics include:

• electric motor power parameters;
• number of shaft revolutions and the possibility of adjustment;
• maximum and minimum diameter cutting disc;
• dimensions and indicators of rotation angles of saw units;
• distance between the table and the bottom edge of the cutting teeth.

To connect the chip collection system, it is necessary that the inlet pipe and the vacuum cleaner tube have the same diameter. This will eliminate the need to attach adapters.

To prevent the workpiece from moving during processing, it can be additionally secured on the table with special clamps. The configuration and dimensions of the clamps are determined depending on the parameters of the working table of the cross-cutting machine and maximum height processed workpiece.

Based on the nature of the movement of the saw units, a machine for trimming boards can belong to one of the types listed below.

In a rectilinear unit, a rigid cantilever beam is used to move the block. The height of the console may vary depending on the size of the wood being processed.

In a pendulum unit (PSU), the disk assembly is located on special suspensions so that the finished processed beam has a segmented arc-shaped protrusion. This is achieved by raising and lowering the cutter during processing of the workpiece.

In a balancing cross-cutting machine, the saw unit is mounted under the table. The knife is raised 10-12 times per minute using a pedal mechanism.

Finally, there is a stationary cross-cutting machine. In it, the knife is firmly attached to a selected place on the table surface. The workpiece is processed without changing its position on the table and position cutting tool in relation to lumber.

Self-production from a circular saw

To make a wood cross-cutting machine with your own hands, you need to carefully read the recommendations of those who have already worked on a self-assembled unit. Assembly diagram homemade machine quite simple and understandable.

To assemble the frame you will need a metal corner and steel sheet thickness of at least 5 mm. The electric motor is mounted on the base using bolts and a stabilizing spring. This is done to make the movement of the saw units smoother.

To add strength to the structure, control supports are included in its composition. The pendulum stand is mounted from a channel, which must be rested against the base of a wood cross-cutting machine.

Note! By selecting each unit not only according to the need for the design, but also according to the price/quality ratio, you can significantly save on the total cost of a homemade cross-cutting machine.

The main advantage of such a unit is the minimum time spent troubleshooting. Finding them and eliminating them in a machine assembled by yourself is much easier than in a factory-assembled machine.

Approximate maintenance-free service life homemade equipment- up to three years.

In the future, it may be necessary to replace components that have ceased to correctly perform their functions. The disadvantages of homemade trimmers include low productivity. It is quite difficult to establish continuous production on such a machine.

An example is the factory-made crosscut tool Stromab RS-40. This machine can process workpieces measuring up to 400 x 65 mm. Cutting can be done at angles up to 45 degrees.

One of the main disadvantages of homemade cross-cutting machines is the inability to provide appropriate safety measures. Almost always, homemade products do not have protective covers on the saw units and in the area of ​​movable joints. This may lead to accidents. The presence of minor defects on metal parts.

Professional trimmers

A completely different level functionality, performance and safety in cross-cutting machines designed for professionals. Aggregates industrial production They have a lightweight and very stable design.

All cutting surfaces are securely covered with protective covers. All saw units of the machines are equipped with dust extraction adapters.

The main qualities of professional miter saws are high reliability and accuracy when sawing logs and semi-finished wood products.

An important advantage of professional miter saws is the ability to process workpieces made of various materials - plastic, wood, metal. In order to adapt the machine to a specific material, you only need to change the cutting disc.

Prices Russian market for professional trimming range from 15 to 30 thousand rubles. If it is necessary to establish small-scale production of wooden parts in the manufacture of furniture, such machines are simply irreplaceable. The most popular and relatively inexpensive professional miter saws include those presented in the table.

For those who love to craft, a miter saw is one of the most popular and must-have tools. Having replaced the primitive miter box, it quickly gained popularity in small workshops and large-scale production.
The advantage of this tool is accurate and safe cutting at right or specified angles. The engine is most often located above the frame, and is mounted on a movable carriage with a handle. The cutting depth is set by limiters at the base, and by hand. Power tools of this kind have already been appreciated by many professional craftsmen and novice amateurs. We invite you to do this too!

The advantage of homemade trimming

Today, no one is surprised by a miter saw. A lot of modifications, from branded ones to cheap Chinese ones, with longitudinal and angular cuts are present on the market. However, their cost sometimes goes through the roof, and the accuracy does not always correspond to the declared one. Is it possible to do without purchasing a specialized tool, you ask.
Our proposed installation proves that a rip-cut miter saw can be made at home. The costs of its assembly are minimal. In addition, the drill on which our trim is made can also be used for its intended purpose.

Required materials and tools

Consumables:

• For the frame: a sheet of plywood 14-20 mm thick, galvanized on one plane;
• Cutting disc with pobedit soldering for longitudinal cutting, diameter – 125 mm;
• Three pieces of plywood: 30x15 cm - for the handle, 24x15 cm - for the carriage, 18x14 - for the base stand;
• One-piece window hinge - 1 piece;
• Drill (possible without reverse);
• Two pairs of U-shaped detachable guides for furniture drawers;
• Hardware: bolts, nuts, screws;
• Cardboard for template;
• Wood glue, wood varnish.

Tools:

• Drill or screwdriver;
• Jigsaw with wood saw;
• Pliers, drills, nozzles for tightening screws;
• Painting knife, tape measure, pencil, brush for varnish and glue.

Let's get started

1. Secure the base stand

We mark the position of the base post on the frame, shifting it to the left side from the middle, and cut the galvanized sheet under it with a chisel.

We take a piece of 18x14 plywood and screw it vertically onto 3 self-tapping screws, having previously glued the connection to the frame.

For more stability, you can add several stops in the form of corners from the same plywood. We glue them on both sides of our stand.

2. Making a handle

Using a template prepared in advance, we mark the handle of our cross-cutting tool. We use a piece of plywood 30x15cm.

It is convenient to cut curved lines with a jigsaw. The closed contour must first be drilled with an 8-9mm drill to match the width of the jigsaw file.

After cutting, we process the edge of the plywood with a rasp or sandpaper, and make the handle streamlined and without burrs.

3. Connect the handle to the carriage

For this we need furniture guides.

We attach one of their parts to the sides of the handle, the second to the carriage.

Both pairs of guides must coincide so that the frame and the handle are practically in the same plane, and ensure free movement of the handle without any jamming.

4. Secure the drill

From the back of the carriage we attach the drill holder to the screws. It can be made from a small piece of plywood by making a sufficient hole for the cartridge.

We press the drill with a cuff made of a galvanized plate, pulling it onto the screws to the handle.

5. Install the carriage

For a more convenient arrangement of workpieces on the bed and trimming them, it is necessary that our carriage has a vertical stroke. This condition will be provided to us by the window hinge.

We screw it with self-tapping screws onto the edge of the carriage and to the base so that moving part could rise and fall to a position right angle. In this case, the carriage will act as a stopper and will not allow the cutting disk to drop below the specified level.

6. The final stage of work - install the cutting disc, protective cover and limit bar

Using an M8 bolt, 50-60mm long, we make a shaft for our trim. For the disk, it is best to choose wider washers, because the mounting hole for cutting disks of this diameter can be 15-20mm.
We tighten the disk on our shaft with a locknut and clamp it in the drill chuck with a wrench.

We place the protective cover above the cutting disc and also attach it to the screws. It should be made from a plate more than 1mm thick.

Let's do trial run our miter saw and check its longitudinal stroke. Cutting disc should go literally a few millimeters into the frame.

One of essential tools, which are used on construction sites and for some repair work, is a miter saw that is capable of cutting workpieces and material at any angle and any inclination. This possibility is provided by the existing rotating platform, the movable working part of the device and, accordingly, the disk itself above the frame. Using it, you can cut wood, plastic, hardboard, OSB, laminate and other materials of low strength.

To select the right tool, you should consult with a specialist who understands not only the order and path of work, but also broached miter saws.

In principle, the design of the saw is simple and comprises motor on the gearbox, saw blade, platform and handle with convenient location start buttons. The motor is a commutator motor, which has a higher number of revolutions, but requires periodic brush changes. And asynchronous, which is quieter in operation, but at the same time more durable to use.

The transmission of torque for the disk is provided by a gear or belt transmission through a gearbox. To avoid slipping of the product, use first gear. When switching to second gear, vibration is reduced and disk rotation is stabilized, which is more suitable for long service life. The most reliable is direct transmission, which is used in some copies, but they are disadvantageous due to their low speed.

To turn a regular saw into a miter saw, a broaching mechanism is built into it. With this option, the module itself is located in the structure on parallel rails. This design approach allows for cutting large-sized products.

Magnesium or aluminum is used for the frame, and the base itself is a rounded part, set at the desired angle and stop. The kit also includes a cover to protect body parts from injury.

basis and very important element The structure is a table. In the presence of precision instruments and some knowledge, you can set up a DIY miter saw table. It consists of two sides that are attached to the stand. The bar is installed exclusively on saws with broaching.

To measure the position when turning the table, angular scales are located on the base. The rotation angle can be allowed from 0 to 45 degrees. A special groove on the latches securely fixes the rotating part and ensures the most accurate fixation.

There are some samples with a tilting stand. But such a design requires complexity and more nodes, which will lead to a greater likelihood of failure. Yes and the need for bending is not so great and occurs only when cutting certain types of baseboards and moldings.

Built-in clamps provide reliable fixation of workpieces on the table. And when using sufficiently long workpieces, retractable stands and stops are used, which are installed in the frame and expand the dimensions.

Trimming settings

To block the mechanism for replacing the disk and, accordingly, stop the engine, the device is equipped with soft start. For safety purposes, the models are equipped with protection against electrical breakdown through the body.

To adjust the cutting of metal products, electronic components are built in, which allow you to adjust the process depending on the properties of the material. Electronic components are also installed as a precautionary measure to ensure safety and prevent damage from overheating, jamming, and braking when the shear load is exceeded. It also allows you to cut the workpiece more accurately. Although usually saw models come without the listed components.

In order to be able to calculate the number of parts produced over a certain period of time in exact quantities, newer models are produced that have the option of setting the exact number of revolutions. Another useful, but expensive function in the device is laser guidance system for cutting precision. This system can operate both from the mains and from batteries. Its essence is simple and very suitable for beginners, since they see the line of the future cut indicated by a laser beam. And beginners, if they have the drawings, will be able to make a miter saw with a broach with their own hands.

During this production process, a large mass of sawdust and small parts from the workpieces remain. Some models have a built-in vacuum cleaner, which saves time on cleaning later and saves workplace always in relatively clean condition.

The quality of the cut is influenced by the blade that will be used to make it. A You can distinguish saw blades by the following criteria:

• configuration and geometry of teeth;
• outer diameter;
• landing hole.

The internal diameter in conventional configurations is 3 cm, and the external diameter can be from 21 to 30 cm. This information is required to be indicated on the side of the disk. Great importance the outer diameter indicates that the load on each of the teeth during operation will be less. And this will lead to longer operation of the disk. Also on the disk is indicated its marking, which is acceptable maximum speed rotation and how compatible it is and with which instrument.

Disc teeth and their configuration

The quality of the cut depends on the quality of the sharpened teeth, their size, the material from which they are made, and the shape configuration. For a high-quality cut, which is used when working with laminate or treated wood coated with varnish, it is imperative to use disks with fine teeth. The working time with smaller teeth differs in duration, but is better in quality. And for working with soft wood and plywood, a disc with large teeth, even located at a greater distance from each other, is sufficient.

Exist following types teeth for circular discs:

• trapezoidal;
• with carbide tipped;
• with ATV soldering.

When choosing a tool, it is very important to pay attention to the brand of the model. It is important to consider what environment you will be working in, with what materials, for how long. Tools from different brands Although they have typical characteristics for categories, they can still differ significantly from each other. Each manufacturer uses its own approaches, materials, and concepts for solving problems. Also, you should not miss the point that the manufacturer may still try to save on something and force something, and it is no secret that any thing can have weak points.

Before considering the rating of these units, you need to pay attention to the manufacturers of the most used and reliable brands and be able to choose the best broached miter saw, which is:

• Makita.
• BOSH.
• Devalt.
• Hyundai.
• Metabo.

Saws from these brands do not raise any questions about quality among the user. The only comment people who used the devices had was about the disc play when the guide came out. But this phenomenon is typical and acceptable.

Makita miter saws

In the ranking of the safest saws to use and those with high-quality assembly, the Makita brand can be noted. In them, the traction allows you to choose the width of the cut. Makes it possible to make combined cuts, inclined and oblique. From professional options of this brand, we can highlight the Makita LS-1216. Thanks to the double guides, this is the most optimal choice for working on plastic and wood, makes the most accurate cuts and the widest possible, up to 107 mm and 363 mm in width. These dimensions are the maximum for instruments of this class. The cost of the unit is around 45 thousand rubles.

BOSH

This company has long secured its place in the world market as a manufacturer of high-quality and reliable things. Moreover, the gradation of the target potential client can start from a simple amateur and achieve professional companies who work with tools of this brand every day with complete and maximum load. Their saws are equipped with a specialized circle and a self-adjusting bed angle. For durability, the design of this brand uses aluminum and magnesium alloys.

The best budget option for a novice craftsman and just an amateur is Bosh PCM 7. This model can be easily fixed on the frame. It is equipped with a laser for precise cutting, a small disk diameter, and a 1.1 kW motor. And you can buy it for 11 thousand rubles.

Professionals can opt for the Bosh GCM 8 SJL Professional saw. Its design has a very large number of settings, which allows you to complete work of any complexity without damaging the surface or deforming the end of the cut. But it does not have the ability to regulate the number of revolutions. But there is a dust collection system, which will benefit professionals. And the cost of such a unit will already be 32 thousand rubles.

Saws from Metabo

A unique feature of Metabo miter saws is the ability to tilt and rotate the blade using a special regulator. The accuracy of the cut is ensured by the projection system, which casts a shadow on the workpiece from the disc.

The most commonly used model is the Metabo KGS 305. included already a 2 kW engine is enough convenient control adjustment levers. And the tilt angle reaches 47 degrees, and rotates 60 degrees. Good quality tool is that it can cut efficiently and accurately, and also work even with timber 100 by 100 mm. This purchase will cost the buyer 26 thousand rubles.

Saws from DeWalt

Distinctive feature of this device is the presence of a unique XRS system, which allows very precise sawing of material of any strength.

From this brand we can highlight the DeWalt DWS 780, which has a fairly rigid and reliable design base, which makes it as safe as possible to work on it. The device has a 1.65 kW motor and a speed control system. For such a copy you will have to pay 53 thousand rubles.

Don’t forget that when purchasing a tool, you will only overpay for the brand. But still, when choosing, it is best to rely on opinion experienced craftsmen, who tested different specimens under working conditions.