Frames for bees: design, dimensions, manufacturing. Hive frames are the main tool for a beekeeper’s successful work

About frame sizes for bee houses Every novice beekeeper should know this. After all, this is the basis!

Don't relax, expecting that the frame is just four wooden sticks, somehow twisted together. In fact, issues such as the honey production of bee colonies and the convenience of collecting honey depend on the quality of its assembly.

Two typical types: nesting and store-bought

The nesting frames serve as an incubator for new bees, with small supplies of beebread and honey.

Bees don't put anything in stores except honey.

Types by material type

Wooden

Traditional wooden hive frames are rapidly fading into the background, and beekeepers prefer plastic. Why is this happening?

Advantages

• You can make the frame yourself; you just need to purchase the necessary materials and tools. This is where the advantages end.

Flaws

• They can fall apart in 40-degree heat. In winter, the wooden frames for the hive, on the contrary, become damp.
• Because of heavy weight Transportation difficulties may arise when transporting hives.

Plastic

Plastic frames greatly simplify the work of beekeepers. They make the job a lot easier just by saving on wax. Besides, plastic models do not require the purchase of ready-made sheets. After all, you just need to apply melted wax to the plastic frames for hives with a brush or roller. You can use already pressed wax, thereby protecting yourself from unknown materials and the presence of pests.

Advantages

• The durability of plastic frames is enviable. Application of this material completely eliminates the possibility of the foundation breaking when transporting the apiary. But, in addition to this, the plastic base makes it possible to use the honey extractor at any speed, again, without the disadvantage of the possibility of tearing the foundation. And this is a significant advantage when using heavy honey, for example, from heather.
• There is no doubt that plastic is more durable than wood.
• The plastic frame for the hive does not absorb honey, and pests do not grow in it.
• With the same dimensions as wood, plastic is half the weight. For a couple or three beehives this is an unnoticeable bonus, but frames from a couple or three dozen pieces of evidence will greatly exhaust you with their weight.

Flaws

• Plastic is a rather fragile material and if it gets damaged, it will not be possible to repair the crack. While with wood everything is much simpler - a few nails will always improve the situation.
• There is one more trouble - bees are very reluctant to process foundation. Therefore, frames for bees can only be used with active wax formation.

Types of hives depending on the number of frames

It is already clear that hives come in a wide variety. Choice specific type should be preceded by an analysis of climatic and honey collection conditions, as well as the specifics of the bees themselves. The bee houses themselves can be either single- or multi-body. But highest value has exactly the number of frames it can accommodate. According to this type, there are 8, 12, 16 and 24 frame hives. It is worth understanding that according to a similar criterion, the hive bodies themselves can be distinguished.

8 - frame

8-frame hives are found in apiaries of both amateurs and seasoned professionals. They are actively used both in the CIS countries and abroad. Such a small size of evidence is characteristic of either not very productive or still young bee families. In the latter case, such hives with 8 frames can be found in the spring, and at the beginning of summer they already expand to 12 pieces. It is also convenient to use an 8 frame hive when transporting bees.

12 - frame

Most often, a 12-frame hive is used in places with a good and long-term harvest. Although it can be an intermediate link in the development of a bee colony. In a multi-block design, 12 frames occupy two housings. Later, in the middle of summer, with sufficient honey production from bees, the hive is expanded to 16.

16 - frame

Often 16 - frame has largest size for a bee family. Occasionally, if the family is very productive, it is expanded to 24. If it is a multi-block hive, then 16 pieces can fit in either two or three blocks. The 16 frame hive is the most optimal and is often used by beekeepers. In winter, a 16-frame hive is an excellent home for bees; it does not have time to become damp, and the reserves of honey in it reach 20-30 kg.

24 - frame

Large 24 - frame is used exclusively for large families. If it is a single-hull hive, then caring for it is quite simple. If 24 frames are placed in several buildings, then looking after the bees becomes a little more difficult.

Dimensions

History of standards

The standardization of sizes is due to the development of P.I. Prokopovich. frame hive at the beginning of the 18th century. And although it was implemented only a century later, thanks to the Kyiv Congress of Beekeepers, it quickly gained popularity.

Soon, the industry began to produce even foundation prepared to fit the size of the frames.

Despite the variety of models, their size will never exceed the dimensions of the hive itself. Well, the thickness of the side sheets corresponds to the thickness of the honeycomb that bees build. But the thickness of the top bar does not have such an attachment to a specific size. This parameter varies widely from one to two and a half centimeters.

Various clues have different size, and the standards allow you to fit 8, 12,16 or 24 pieces in one.

It is worth understanding that regardless of the number of frames installed in the hives, whether there are 8, 12, 16, or even 24, the dimensions will remain the same.

Size classification

• For Dadan-Blatt hives they have a height of 30 centimeters and a width of 43.5, while the top bar extends one and a half centimeters on both sides.
• The Lagonstrup-Ruth frames have the same dimensions, only the height of the frame is only 255 millimeters, and the indents of the top cover are only a centimeter.
• The Ukrainian hive frame has a slightly more complicated and inverted design. That is, it has a width of 30 centimeters and a height of 43.5.
• As for Magazinnaya, it is very reminiscent of a shortened version of Dadan-Blatt, with a height of 14.5 millimeters, the width of the lid and frame remained unchanged.

How are frames made?

Production is possible with or without a machine. The machine is important for the rapid production of workpieces. In principle, you can do without it, but you’ll have to spend a fair amount of time on each plank. And especially sophisticated models of such equipment can quickly make ready-made plastic frames.

As for the collection itself wooden types, then in any case, to make such a structure, you will have to use your own strength and use a hammer, wire, pliers and nails.

Video tutorials on making

Making a lightweight model.

Home production.

Manufacturing machine

To simplify the work of beekeepers, there is a machine for processing hive frames.

A high-quality machine not only simplifies working with wooden materials, but also allows you to make plastic frames for 8, 12, 16 and 24 frame hives.

The machine has the ability to quickly produce workpieces. Such equipment significantly speeds up the beekeeper’s work and is especially important for large apiaries.

DIY frames

Making hive frames with your own hands is quite simple; you don’t need a machine or additional skills. You just need a few wooden slats, preferably made of pine or linden, rough wire and nails. As for the tools themselves, their variety will not surprise anyone: a hammer, an awl, pliers.

By selecting required drawing and the thickness of the planks, it’s not difficult to assemble the entire structure with your own hands using a drawing. When making it, it is very important to adhere to standardized dimensions, since a frame that is too large will not fit into the hive, and a frame that is too small will not stay there and will only get in the way. Making frames for hives is not a very difficult and interesting task.

Blueprints

Below are drawings for hives of different sizes.

Drawing for the Dadan-Blatt hive

Schematic drawing of a 12-frame Dadan-Blatt hive

Drawing for the Ukrainian hive

Drawing for a Store type hive

As you can see, there is nothing complicated in making frames for hives, especially when you have a drawing and desire.

Bee feeders

Bee colonies are usually fed twice a year - before the plants from which bees collect honey begin to flower, in spring and autumn before replenishing winter food. To stimulate the brood of bees, additional feeding is also used. To ensure that the bees' food is properly organized, special bee feeders are used, which can be placed inside or outside the hive.

What types of feeders are there?

The most popular feeders for a bee colony are over-frame, ceiling feeders and feeders made from an ordinary bottle.

1. Feeder above the hive frame. It is most convenient when such a design is made in the form of a box. Such a box should not be susceptible to corrosion, which means it is better to use plastic, wood or aluminum. Its design is not complicated and is divided into two parts: the place where the bees themselves are located and the place where the food is poured: honey or sugar syrup. In accordance with the name, such a feeder is placed above the frames of the hive, on a canvas.
2. Ceiling structure. such a feeder will be good for multi-hull hives. Its design is similar to the previous one, only it is located under the very ceiling of the evidence.
3. From a plastic bottle. The cheapest and most convenient option for a beekeeper. To make such a feeder, take plastic bottle dark color, in which small holes are made through which the syrup will flow out. You can regulate the volume of food flowing out for bees by sealing excess holes with tape.

You will have to organize the production of frames yourself, since the size is 435*460 mm. is not yet standard and such frames are rare on sale and quite expensive.

In addition, frames are usually sold in the form of semi-finished products, that is, in the form of sets of planks - so in any case, the frames will have to be assembled yourself, without relying on the help of your spouse or neighbor.

I immediately note that none of the frame strips should have knots, because they significantly weaken the strength of the frames, and when driving in staples and nails, they split.

The wide-high frame 435*460 mm, intended for use in the Lezhak, differs from the standard frame of the Dadan hive 435*300 mm. only height increased from 300 mm. up to 460 mm.

Only vertical gravity forces act on a frame installed in a hive standing in an apiary. The weight of a wide-high frame with honey, according to Andrei Yakimov, can reach up to 7 kg - this must be taken into account when choosing a frame design. My rough estimate showed a value of up to 6 kg. honey in a wide-high frame.

In order not to run into broken frames in the Lezhak, I consider it necessary to regularly subject the frames to random checks with a static load: we hang two dumbbells weighing 5 kg from the edges of the bottom bar. and observe the joints of the planks - there should be no visible changes in them. Ten, not seven kg. loads guarantee a margin of safety for the frames.

Here is a drawing of a typical frame for a Dadan hive:

I strongly doubt that it is right to call such a frame Dadan’s frame, because he probably used other frames: much simpler and more primitive.

For frame 435*460 mm. the top and bottom frames can be made in accordance with this drawing, and the side strips should be made 460 mm high, not 300 mm.

Frames of this design, as shown in the drawing, are good for nomadic apiaries, since frames pressed tightly cannot move sideways and it is difficult for them to swing around the horizontal axes - the lower edges of the edges of the upper planks.

There is an opportunity and temptation to buy fairly cheap Dadan frames and add them from below using simple flat strips. The side bars can be extended using metal plates and self-tapping screws.

The problem is that the side bars can deform inward under load. This can be prevented using a cross-bar with a cross section of 10*20 mm, deployed vertically.

The easiest and cheapest way, in my opinion, is to make wide-tall frames 435*460 as follows:

We buy sets of 4 Dadan frame slats and make 415 mm long slats on a woodworking machine. cross section 25*20 mm. and strips 160 mm long. section 25*10 mm. (double quantity);

A new strip with a cross section of 25*20 mm. We make the middle horizontal bar of the frame and attach the side bars from the kit and extensions of the side frames to it with staples, and we make the old bar 415*25*10 as the bottom bar of the frame 435*460 mm.

For example, you can buy sets of the simplest design - www.seltehno.ru/katalog/vse-dlya-paseki/voshhina.-uli.-ramki.-komplektuyushhie/ramka-%28dadan%29-%28435×300-mm%29.html :

Hive frame 435*300 mm (Dadan) made of linden
Retail: 1000 rub.
Small wholesale: 900 rub.
Wholesale: 800 rub.
50 pcs/pack
Weight (packed) ≈ 12 kg.

Here is information about the frames in Lazutin's sun loungers:

The frame is assembled from strips with a cross-section of 24*10 mm, at the ends of which a microspike is made. Assembly is done using glue, which gives the frame strength and durability.

The top bars of the frames are 37 mm wide and serve two purposes: install required distance between the axes of frames adjacent to each other, as well as when installing frames in the hive, they form a continuous ceiling.

I think it’s a reasonable idea to make the top slats of the frames 37 mm wide, although, in my opinion, it’s easier to make frames with a uniform thickness of 25 mm, and the distance between the frames can be adjusted in different ways: with 470*12*10 mm slats, overhead protrusions on the folds, ...

Need to try different variants manufacturing frames 435*460 mm. to choose the simplest, cheapest and fastest option.

Here Video demonstrating successful and quick way manufacturing side strips of frames -https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=slnc5vR4kPU

It turns out that you can quite easily and simply produce hundreds of side strips with Hoffmann dividers, without particularly straining to maintain required sizes- everything happens automatically when using the simplest devices.

Interesting and simple design framework (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HTrUIuUbX9I) can be seen in the Video published on YouTube.

Personally, I like this frame design the most, and I think its main advantage is that maximum thickness frames reduced from 37 to 25 mm. — this will make it possible to reduce by approximately one and a half times the number of Loungers and boxes for storing frames removed from the Loungers located on the Apiary.

The distance between the frames in the Lounger in the apiary can be adjusted using slats required thickness, inserted between frames, or by other means. For example, you can screw in screws with heads of a suitable diameter or place plastic plates with vertical frame dividers.

I think that it is more correct to set this distance not 12 mm, but within 8 - 9 mm. - then the bees will not block this gap with wax, but will use it for passage.

I bring a short history hive frames:

Today it is well known that the inventor of the hive frame in 1814 was our compatriot P.I. Prokopovich.

His first frames were standing - they rested with the bottom bar on the so-called “honey board” with cuts through which bees could pass, but the queen could not pass. This was the first dividing grid.

These frames were closed by all the slats and therefore mutually held each other.

The first frames hanging freely on hangers with free passages around them were invented in 1851 by the American L. Langstroth. These frameworks were further improved by A. Ruth, and practically in this form we use these frameworks today.

The invention of frames that interlock only with side slats is attributed to Quinby and Danzenbacker. If the first one had standing frames, then the second one had them hanging on short wooden rods located in the middle of the wide side slats.

The invention of a permanent frame divider on frames belongs to Hoffmann. These are the types of frames that lovers of interlocking frames use nowadays.

In accordance with the traditions that have developed in our area, the width of the street between adjacent honeycombs of frames should be 12 mm, and the width of the side strips should be 25 mm, then the distance between the centers of the honeycombs will be 37 mm.

When using “classical” Langstroth-Ruth frames without Hoffmann dividers, the required lane width is ensured by appropriate placement of the frames in the body.

Application practice various types framework showed their strengths and weaknesses.

Advantages:
1. When installing and closing the frames, the required width of the streets is automatically set.
2. When transporting hives for migration, the immobility of the frames in the body is ensured, which prevents the destruction of honeycombs and injury to bees.
3. When inspecting the nest, you can remove or install several frames at a time.

Flaws:
1. When installing frames in the hive and closing them, the bees are injured.
2. Bees will polise the places where the frames close, which makes their further separation very difficult. Sometimes, when removing frames from the hive, the separating protrusions of the frames may even break off.
3. As such frames are used, the width of the streets increases, since propolis and wax constantly accumulate on the edges of the dividers.
4. With such a framework, it is not possible to set the street width to less than 12 mm. In early spring To speed up the development of families, it is recommended to set the streets at 9-10 mm.
5. The manufacturing technology of these frames is more complicated than the “classic” ones, since it requires additional milling of each frame three times side plank. In addition, performing this technique wastes 8-10% of the total volume of frame wood.
6. The wood consumption for the manufacture of these frames is higher than that of “classic” frames. This means that, taking into account additional milling operations, the cost of a frame with Hoffmann dividers will be higher than the cost of a “classic” frame.

"Classical" Langstroth-Ruth frames without dividers

Advantages:
1. When installing frames in the hive, the bees are practically not injured.
2. Frames are much easier to remove from the hive than frames with permanent dividers.
3. It is possible to adjust the width of the street depending on the need.
4. The manufacturing technology of these frames is simpler than frames with dividers, since the operations of milling the side strips are eliminated.
5. Less wood consumption than frames with dividers.
6. Taking into account clauses 4 and 5, these frames will be cheaper than frames with dividers.

Flaws:
1. When placing frames in the hive, you must set the required width of the streets manually. However, such experience is acquired quite quickly. For example, I use the thickness of the middle finger of my hand as a “measurement” of the required width of the street.
2. Before transporting the hives for migration, the frames must be additionally secured using removable dividers.

There are many options for removable dividers, but, in my opinion, the most convenient option is a U-shaped separator made of two wooden blocks 12*12*100 mm, secured with small nails on a crossbar made of tinned tin (from a tin can).

This separator is placed on top of the frame and, with its bars, ensures the fixation of adjacent frames.

For lovers of frames with constant Hoffmann dividers, I can offer a variant of the frame (conventionally called “half-Hoffmann”), which, in my opinion, has minimal amount shortcomings.

This frame has a permanent divider installed on only one side, and the total width of the top of the side bar is not 37 mm, but 35 mm.

Regarding my priorities in this matter. I have long since moved away from Hoffmann dividers and use only “classic” Langstroth-Ruth frames with straight side bars.

So I intend to abandon Hoffmann dividers, because I am not going to roam with heavy Beds, and I don’t recognize other hive designs, and prefer to use mainly frames of the simplest design.

The template for assembling frames can be made of metal, wood, or wood-metal. It is better to make the corners that fix the frame metal: this will make it possible to drill holes for the wire - you just need to very accurately mark 6 holes on the corners, mark the drilling points and then without haste drill 12 holes with a diameter of two mm.

I note that the template does not require a flat platform at all: it can be made from bars with a cross-section of 50*50 mm. Use screws to assemble the frame and secure the corners to it with screws.

The production of frames is naturally divided into two stages: the production of 4 strips of 3 types and the assembly of frames, and it is reasonable to combine the assembly of frames with. To fasten the planks together, frames should be used - it makes it possible to speed up the creation of frames compared to using nails and a hammer.

For each of the 4 joints of the planks, you will need three to four brackets, since the load on a 435*460 frame is approximately one and a half times greater than on a 435*300 frame, where two brackets are usually sufficient.

It is possible to make a frame from one wooden plank and wire two to three mm thick:

I think that a frame of this design can only be used as a magazine frame: the frame measures 435*460 mm. The foundation is unlikely to hold, even if you use two one-and-a-half sheets of foundation, but I still think it’s necessary to try - maybe you’ll be able to come up with a way to make workable frames.

I came to the conclusion that I need to buy ready-made kits slats for frames, because it is stupid to try to compete with production using semi-automatic machines. The lowest prices were found on the website http://www.ramka-uley.ru/— the problem is that we need to agree on the production of strips for 435*460 mm frames.

I note that plastic frames are also produced, but they do not interest me for two reasons: firstly, plastic frames measuring 435*460 mm. out of stock; secondly, I don’t see the point in abandoning wooden frames.

I invite everyone to speak out in

The key to successful bee breeding is comfortable and properly equipped hives. How successful the honey collection will be largely depends on how correctly the frames are made and positioned inside the bee house.

The correct design of the frame, despite its apparent simplicity, must take into account whole line factors, each of which has a significant impact on their quality. This should include:

• selection of material for manufacturing;
• geometric dimensions;
• plank shape;
• wire tension method;
• installation method;
• number of frames in the hive.

Therefore, the correct manufacture of frames for hives is a very important and responsible task, the solution of which must be approached very responsibly.

Options for placing frames inside the hive

The spatial position of the honeycomb frames is determined depending on the direction of their axes. It can be longitudinal or transverse in relation to the tap hole. As experienced beekeepers note, the chosen method of arranging hive frames does not affect the productivity of bees, but the speed and ease of control by the beekeeper depends on it.

With a longitudinal arrangement, it is possible to tilt the hive and inspect all the frames at once. In a transverse position, this is not possible, since the hive frames will swing and could crush the bees.

The longitudinal arrangement is used for quick work only by experienced beekeepers in large apiaries, and for beginners and small bee farms, a transverse arrangement and inspection of each frame separately is recommended.

In the case of hives with square cross section(for example, store type), you can change the spatial arrangement of the frames at any time and switch to an accelerated control method.

Sizing selection and basic standards

Before you determine the required geometric dimensions of the frames, you need to know the basic requirements for their correct placement. Both the overall productivity and the development of your apiary can depend on their correct spatial arrangement inside the hive. Therefore, when manufacturing and installing frames, it should be taken into account that the distances:

• between the axes of adjacent frames there should be 37-38 mm, which will ensure the width of the “streets” (passages for bees) within 10-12 mm;
• from the top and bottom bars of the hive frame to the body should not be more than 10 mm and not less than 8 mm;
• from the bottom row of frames to the bottom of the hive body - 20-30 mm;
• from the walls of the hive to the side slats - within 5-7 mm;
• The recommended width of the top bar is 25 mm.

The technology for manufacturing frames for hives should ensure their reliable fixation in the internal volume and the possibility of unhindered removal if necessary.

Among the most common standards that show good results, experts indicate the following sizes, which have frames for comb honey in outer height and width:

• Zander, 220 x 420 mm;
• frames for 12 frame Dadan-Blatt hive, 300 x 435 mm;
• Dadana (modified), 285 x 448 mm;
• Kuncha or “Goltz hive”, 330 x 250 mm;
• Langstroth, 232 x 448 mm;
• German standard, 223 x 370 mm.

When determining the required dimensions, it should also be taken into account that they must correspond to the dimensions of the hive in order to fully comply with the conditions specified above. Therefore, we can say that the design of the bee house and the size of the honeycomb frames are inextricably linked, and your honey collection and the proper development of the bee colony depend on their correct combination.

Drawing and dimensions of the Dadan-Blatt frame.

Distance between frames

The construction of the honeycomb occurs inside the frames that the beekeeper installs in the hive. This technology makes it possible to simplify the control of honeycomb filling and facilitate the process of collecting honey. The stability of the honeycomb can be increased by installing a special wax plate and securing it to a wire stretched inside.

Intermediate honeycomb walls can be purchased at specialized beekeeping stores or you can make them yourself. Bees fill honeycombs much faster in ready-made slabs. beeswax.

Drawing and dimensions of the Ruth frame.

The distance between the planes of hive frames is called “bee lanes”. Their width should be between 10-12 mm. Reducing the passage will not allow the bees to work normally on the combs due to the cramped space, and due to the increased distance, the construction of combs between the frames may begin or a significant increase in the thickness of the comb set may occur.

In order to accurately maintain the required distance, the side planks are given a shaped shape, in which the upper part of the board is wider and the middle is thin. Another solution could be the use of special spacers on the side bars, which prevent the frames from getting closer together and allow for quick and accurate installation.

Design principle

Traditional frames for comb honey are assembled from 4 wooden planks: two side, top and bottom. In this case, the length of the top bar is slightly larger than the overall dimensions of the frame and its edges protrude on both sides. This allows you to quickly and easily install the structure inside the hive, placing it on the existing longitudinal supports along the side walls.

Ruth workpiece dimensions.

Retail networks They offer beekeepers sets of elements for assembly, bee frames in a ready-made assembled form, with or without holes for wire. The price of factory-made frames depends on the type of wood, the quality of processing of parts, the presence of holes, the level of assembly and trademark manufacturer. The most expensive products are made from beech and are supplied completely ready for use.

The type of material chosen for the manufacture of frames has a significant impact on the effectiveness of their use and the amount of comb honey produced. The dimensions of the structure, its strength and weight are also important. Wood and plastics are used as materials today.

Assembling the sectional frame.

Moreover, plastic as an innovative material has not yet become widespread. Most beekeepers, when making bee frames, prefer wood as a more natural and environmentally friendly material.

Wooden planks used for assembly must be well processed sandpaper or at grinding machine until a completely smooth surface is obtained.

When using resinous coniferous species, it is recommended to treat the surface of the planks with hot wax or natural drying oil. The planks should be connected to each other using steel self-tapping screws, having previously coated the joints with PVA glue. The use of nails may not provide sufficient structural strength.

The fastening of the intermediate walls made of foundation in the internal space of the frames is ensured by the tension of strings made of steel wire. At the same time, the strength of the wooden planks should be such as to ensure the possibility of strong tension on the strings, while eliminating the deflection of the wooden parts.

To ensure better stability assembled structure, it is recommended to do 4 pulls when the string is positioned longitudinally and 6 times to pull the wire when positioned transversely. In mini frames you can make only 2 broaches. The use of hardwood allows you to reduce the number of strings and simplify the work process, but this option will increase the weight of the product.

To ensure that the installed wire does not protrude above the surface of the planks and does not touch the walls of the hive, making their installation difficult, longitudinal grooves are cut out in the planks. The diameter of the holes drilled to pass the wire should not exceed 1.5 times the diameter of the wire.

The holes themselves are best made using a low-speed drill or screwdriver. Good results can be obtained by burning holes with hot metal. Using a cold awl or other similar tool for these purposes can lead to splitting of the finished planks.

Which wire arrangement is best?

The increased number of tensioned strings with a transverse arrangement makes it possible to more evenly distribute the force applied to the bars and reduce possible bending. Four, and sometimes only two, stretched strings increase the force impact and contribute to greater bending, and, therefore, a subsequent weakening of the wire tension.

Longitudinal and transverse winding.

On the other hand, an increase in the number of strings leads to a more complex design, increases the time for its manufacture and complicates the process of soldering the intermediate wall of foundation to the wire. Therefore, when choosing the location of steel strings and their quantity, you should take into account the strength of the frame material and its dimensions, since the larger the frame, the more tension will be required.

To create the possibility of tightening the strings when they are weakened during operation, some beekeepers recommend not tying the ends of the wire to the tensioned string, but hammering fixing nails into the upper bar.

They should protrude 4-5 mm above the surface of the bar, which is enough to fix the wire. The length of the nails is 15-20 mm, the diameter is 1.5-2.0 mm, and the surface itself must have an anti-corrosion coating.

If it is necessary to perform a tightening, the nails are simply driven into the bar up to the head. In this case, the wire changes its length and provides better tension. This stretching technique allows you to do without the use of a tensioning machine or other specialized devices.

Selecting wire for frames

The wire used for bee frames as tension strings must be steel. The use of non-ferrous metal wire or thick fishing line is not recommended due to the soft structure of the material and the ability to stretch over time, as well as the complex technology of fastening the intermediate wall to the frame. In addition, the use of fishing line or soft metal does not ensure the safety of the strings when removing the honeycomb with a knife.

Excellent results can be obtained by using nichrome or tungsten. These materials are not subject to corrosion, are easy to process and heat up quickly. However high price does not contribute to their widespread distribution.

Therefore, specialized stores offer beekeepers two types of steel wire: regular black and high-alloy stainless steel. Stainless steel is durable, but it is also more expensive.

Its increased rigidity makes the process of pulling it onto the frame somewhat more difficult. At the same time, it should be borne in mind that black strings are much cheaper and softer, but can rust over time due to the treatment of frames with pest control compounds. The final choice is yours, since each type of wire has its own advantages and disadvantages.

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Instructions for stringing the wire

After making wooden frames with installed spacers or shaped side strips, it is necessary to begin tensioning the wire to subsequently attach the intermediate wall made of foundation to it. To do this you will need the following equipment and materials:

• steel wire with a diameter of 1.5-2.0 mm, wound on a reel;
• drill or screwdriver with a drill of the appropriate diameter for the wire;
• marking drill jig or template that you can make yourself;
• hammer, pliers, pliers;
• nails for fastening and tightening wire.

To increase the convenience of unwinding the wire, it is recommended to install the reel on a vertical axis.

Installation and tension of strings

When stretching the strings on the frame, the order of work will be as follows:

1. using a jig or marking using a template, drill required holes in opposite strips depending on the chosen arrangement of strings;
2. drive the tension nail into the frame;
3. pull the wire through the drilled holes, passing through them in a sequential snake;
4. wrap one end of the wire around the corresponding nail;
5. Pull the wire using pliers and secure it to the second nail in the same way.

The tension level of the string should ensure that a musical tone appears when it is plucked with a finger. Otherwise, it is necessary to perform a constriction.

Installing the inner wall

After the frame with stretched strings is ready, you can begin the process of attaching it to the wire inner wall from wax. This is done by heating the wire and fusing it into the material of the plate being fixed.

The ends of the wire are connected to a current transformer operating at an applied voltage of 12-36V. The use of 220V equipment is prohibited due to safety reasons.

You can use it as a current source Charger for car batteries or buy a device in a specialized beekeeping store in the equipment department. Usage car battery not recommended, since you can simply damage it by turning it on in short circuit mode.

To solder the intermediate wall:

1. place the frame with stretched steel wire horizontally on the desktop;
2. place the cut wall plate inside the frame on the wire;
3. connect the ends electrical wires from the power source to the nails or ends of the wire;
4. turn on the electric current source;
5. when the wire is heated, the wall material will begin to melt and it will go inside the material;
6. After cooling, the intermediate wall will be securely attached to the frame.

A very important point when performing this operation is to prevent the wire from overheating. If this happens, the hot strings will simply cut the material, and the result will be negative. It is also impossible to achieve good result and with insufficient heating.

For bees, the fundamental location of the intermediate wall has no of great importance. It may not reach the edge of the frame slightly, have a slight distortion during installation, or be assembled from several strips. The main thing is that it does not fall off after installing the frame in the hive.

Frames for hives made of plastic

Today, most beekeepers use wood to make bee frames as has been proven for centuries natural material. However, the development of modern technologies has led to the appearance of plastic products on the market.

This is due to the desire of manufacturers to exceed performance indicators traditional materials and create lighter, stronger and more comfortable hive frames. In cold weather, wood quite actively absorbs moisture from the air, and in the heat it dries out. This leads to deterioration in the quality of the frames and may lead to a decrease in the quality of honey.

So far, plastic frames are only made industrially and are sold as ready-to-use products. Plastic structures are made of full standard size and mini frames for connecting them into a cassette block.

In this case, the internal space of the product is filled with thin plastic plate and wire tension and subsequent installation of the inner wall is not required. Simply cover the surface of the plastic with melted wax using a roller and install the frame in the hive.

Summarizing

Self-production of frames for bee hives is not difficult work, and even a novice beekeeper can do it. Traditional structures are made of wood and steel wire. The overall dimensions of the frames depend on the design of the hive and its volume.

In addition, plastic frames are on sale and are successfully sold, which are easier to use, but more expensive for the beekeeper. Choice suitable design depends on the size of your hives, the level of development of the bee colony and the wishes of the beekeeper.

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What is a photo frame for?

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The frame can be not only decent design photography, but also an element of interior design. In order to choose the most suitable option, it is better to contact a specialist.

Our framing workshop produces photo frames from wood, plastic and aluminum. Thanks to special processing technology, they can have any shape and color. Plastic frames may look like wood or metal, may be gold-plated or silver-plated, with an imitation of antiquity. A qualified framer will be able to offer the client exactly the option that best suits both the theme and style of the photo, as well as the design of a particular room.

A plastic frame differs from wooden or metal frames in its lightness and relatively inexpensive price. The photo will look natural on your desktop or decorate the wall of your apartment. long years. In addition, such frames are not afraid of mechanical influences, moisture and temperature changes.

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How to order photo frames

Before choosing a frame, you need to decide on its purpose. Imagine where the photo will be placed - on the wall of the apartment, on the desktop, in the office. Then you should go to the website www.site, look at the offers and select the desired color and profile.

If it’s not easy to make a choice, or you want something original and unusual, then you can come to our framing workshop. It is located 2 minutes from Dostoevskaya metro station or Novoslobodskaya metro station. With the help of our experienced specialists you can find the best shape or finish.

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The key to a thriving apiary is a comfortable and convenient bee house. By taking care of the winged helpers and applying all his skills to making a comfortable hive, the beekeeper will receive a fragrant healthy honey, propolis, pollen and many other wonderful bee products.

Before the invention of the frame hive in the mid-19th century, beekeepers fumigated the hive while pumping out honey. As a result of this procedure, the bee colony completely died. Modern frame hives allow you to control the development of the bee colony and regulate the intensity of honey collection.

Making hive frames with your own hands

Having decided to take up beekeeping, a beekeeper, in addition to the ability to breed and keep bees, has to understand the timing of germination and flowering of crops, be able to prevent diseases, and, if necessary, treat the bee colony, make the home comfortable for his charges, repair or replace broken parts. An experienced beekeeper is a livestock specialist, a veterinarian, an agronomist, and a carpenter.

All details are evidence are definitely important. Each element plays its role in. Bee frames are the main design element that allows you to extract honey without harming the bee family. A high-quality frame can last for ten years. After each remelting of old honeycombs, it is cleaned and disinfected. Sometimes loose and warped structures require repair of sagging sidewalls or complete replacement.

Varieties of bee frames

Today modern technologies , of course, provide everything necessary for setting up an apiary. Buy at construction market a finished hive or its individual components will not be difficult. However, experienced beekeepers advise making bee houses with your own hands. And it’s a pleasure for an experienced beekeeper to repair or make a new frame for a hive.

The interior of the hives, filled with frames, intended for the production of honey by bees. Therefore, it is extremely important that the design is comfortable for winged workers.

Beekeepers' observations of the life of insects in nature made it possible to create a hive that is as comfortable as possible for breeding bee colonies and their honey production. The designs of bee houses and the sizes of hive frames used today were approved 100 years ago, in 1918 in Kyiv at the USSR Beekeepers' Congress.

There are currently 4 types of frames with standard sizes:

• Dadana-Blatta (43.5 x 30 cm);
• Langstroth-Rue (43.5 x 23 cm);
• half-frame for the store (43.5 x 14.5 cm);
• Ukrainian or reverse (30 x 43.5 cm).

Of course, each standard can have reasonable deviations and be thoughtfully changed depending on the individual needs and characteristics of the apiary. When deviating from the standard size, it is necessary to take into account requirements for internal proportions:

• distance from the hive wall to the side bar (7 mm);
• frame thickness (25 mm);
• the gap between the bottom bar and the bottom of the hive (15-20 mm);
• the distance between the upper bars, that is, the area of ​​the honeycomb (12 mm).

It is also important to remember that foundation has standard sizes. When installing it in a non-standard design, consumables will remain, increasing material costs.

Poor design and tightness internal space leads to disruption of the development of the bee colony and insufficient activity of bees during honey production. It is also difficult beekeeper maintenance of the hive.

Based on their functional significance, frames are divided into two groups:

1. nesting, intended for reproduction of a bee colony;
2. store-bought for collecting honey.

Wood or plastic?

Traditionally all the details of the bee house made of wood, well-dried boards of pine or cedar; aspen, willow, and linden are also allowed. But today there are also lightweight plastic frames. The main requirement for parts is high quality smooth surface and strong joints.

Of course, an advantage wooden frames is their environmental friendliness and bioenergy. Wood, having no chemical components, does not have any negative impact on living organisms. It is also well ventilated and retains heat. If necessary, any wooden part, a bent or cracked plank can be easily repaired with your own hands or completely replaced. However, wood can be affected environment: at high humidity it swells and rots, and in the heat it dries out and cracks. Heavy structures create difficulties during transportation. IN wooden slats Bugs often appear and literally eat the wood part, destroying the structure and damaging the honeycomb.

Having light weight and high strength, plastic frames used in any honey extractor, even when collecting heavy heather honey. During transportation, the rigid structure prevents the foundation from breaking. High-quality plastic structures last for at least half a century. They are not subject to destructive natural influences and do not absorb honey. But plastic is a more fragile material and if cracked cannot be repaired, the entire frame will have to be replaced. For plastic frame No foundation is needed, melted wax is applied to its base, and then the bees will work on their own.

Experienced beekeepers note that on foundation in wooden frame insects work more actively.

Assembling a frame for bees with your own hands step by step

The number of frames inside the hive can vary from 8 to 24. Usually in the spring, 8 pieces are enough. Gradually, in parallel with the development of the bee colony, their number increases to 10-12. Huge hives with 24 frames are suitable for very large families. They are heavy and clumsy.

Regardless of the quantity, all frames of one hive have the same dimensions.

The most popular among beekeepers are Dadan-Blatt framework. It is not recommended to deviate from the dimensions by more than 1-2 mm, since ready product with inappropriate dimensions either will not fit into the grooves or will fall inside. Any frame consists of top and bottom strips and two sidewalls.

Regardless of the type of frame, nested or magazine, sequencing does not change:

• Planks are cut out of wood according to the drawing and processed with sandpaper. The surface should be smooth, without splinters. It is not recommended to use bars with large knots, since the knotty base will quickly crack and collapse at the most inopportune moment;
• The planks are assembled into a solid structure using small shoe nails;
• In the sides of the frame, holes are made with an awl at a distance of 6 cm. A wire is pulled through these holes like a “snake”. When tensioning, the sidewalls should not bend, do not overtighten! The wire end is secured with a twisted loop. Instead of wire, some beekeepers use nylon thread (0.5 mm thick), which is fixed to the rail with a nail;
• Experienced beekeepers recommend antiseptic treatment of frames with propolis tincture. You can easily make it yourself by mixing a 10% propolis solution with alcohol or moonshine of 70-90% strength. After the alcohol has evaporated wooden surface is formed protective film, preventing the formation of rot and mold. And such natural treatment will not harm the bees;
• Waxing of finished frames is recommended after 1-2 days.

Wax moths are capable of destroying honeycombs and completely destroying foundation. Having discovered its larvae, it is necessary to urgently treat the honeycombs with vinegar. The smell of orange and mint repels moths. Orange peels and bunches of mint can be placed on frames and in honeycomb storage.

Ants can destroy a swarm of bees. Having penetrated the hive, these insects destroy the queens and bees. Lime or other viscous substance spread on the legs of the house will help protect against ants getting inside.

A regular thumbtack helps prevent the wire from cutting through the strip. You need to insert the buttons so that their holes coincide with the hole of the awl.

Frames last longer, assembled with self-tapping screws and glued with wood glue.

Based on the size of a standard frame for a Dadan-Blatt hive, experienced beekeepers increase the strength of the structure by expanding the upper part of the side bar to 50 mm.