Roast the soil in the oven. How to prepare and disinfect the soil for seedlings. Is it necessary to disinfect purchased soil for seedlings?

The components used must be free of foreign impurities

The soil intended for sowing seeds must contain components of organic and inorganic origin.

Soil for growing seedlings

• soil - turf, leaf, garden;
• vegetable compost;
• rotted cattle manure;
• peat – lowland and highland;
• sphagnum, coconut fiber, seed husks, bark, sawdust;
• wood ash.

Peat is one of the popular components of seedling soil mixtures.

It is not necessary that absolutely all the components from the list are present in the soil, but most of them are. It is better to mix the soil from three different soils: garden, which can be taken directly from the ridge (unless, of course, sick or insect-infested plants grew there); leafy (from leaves rotted with the ground); turf (which is obtained by cutting turf). Soil is the basic element of the seedling substrate.

Compost - rotted plants - must be mixed with rotted manure, which is called humus. This is a supplier of necessary substances.

Advice! Do not sow vegetable and herb seeds in humus, compost or low-lying peat. Too much organic matter will cause the seedlings to produce excessive leaf mass at the expense of root formation. As a result, the seedlings will take root poorly when planted in a garden bed or greenhouse soil.

DIY soil for seedlings

You will definitely need peat, it is what makes the soil fertile. The lowland contains about 70% organic matter, the upland, consisting of sphagnum, makes the soil structure loose.

Peat is found in most soil mixtures for seedlings. It is obtained from swamps. This is not to say that it is a non-renewable resource. From decomposing organic components under the influence natural processes it forms in swamps, but very slowly - over thousands of years. In addition, peat is part of the natural ecosystem - if it is completely removed from the swamps or at least a serious deficiency is created, the ecological balance will be disrupted.

This is why scientists have been last decades tried to find a replacement for peat. And finally they found it. More and more manufacturers of soil mixtures for seedlings are now switching to using coconut fiber.

Benefits of coconut fiber.

1. It is 100% organic without chemical impurities.
2. They are able to absorb and retain water, working like a sponge, retaining moisture for plants and not removing useful substances from the soil.
3. The layer of soil in a pot or container with a substrate that includes coconut fiber remains dry, which prevents the appearance of soil fungi.
4. Coconut fiber has a pH level of about 6, so it normalizes the overall acidity of the entire substrate.
5. The fiber contains phosphorus, potassium, and other substances needed by plants in significant quantities.

Sunflower seed husks, tree bark, rotted sawdust, dry moss and other loosening agents are also used to loosen the soil. Wood ash is added to normalize soil acidity.

The soil for seedlings should be loose

Advice! Do not add more nutrients to the soil than normal - an abundance of fertilizing is appropriate during the growing season; the seeds, which contain the plant embryo, have a sufficient supply of substances to form and release a full-fledged sprout. Enhanced nutrition of the seed is not required.

• river (or, in extreme cases, quarry) sand;
• perlite;
• vermiculite;
• expanded clay;
• hydrogel;
• mineral supplements.

Advice! Do not grind the components of the soil mixture too much and do not sift the mixture through a sieve with small cells - the fine-grained substrate will sour and “swim” after each watering.

Perlite is an excellent component of seedling soil mixture. This substance has a number of significant advantages.

1. Sterility - spores of fungal diseases and pathogens of infectious diseases do not settle in perlite.
2. The absence of insects - they simply do not grow in the substance.
3. No seeds weeds– they do not take root in soil mixtures with perlite and do not sprout.
4. Preservation in its original condition for a long time - perlite does not rot.
5. Light weight - perlite is very light.

Vermiculite is a porous, environmentally friendly material that contains a record amount of necessary sprouts already at initial stages life of magnesium, potassium and calcium.

Expanded clay drains the soil, acting as an organic loosening agent and helping to improve the structure and moisture capacity of the soil.

Hydrogel – polymer compound, which, due to its properties, also serves to maintain high moisture capacity in the soil.

Advice! To simplify the watering procedure and maintain the required humidity, add hydrogel to the prepared soil before sowing.

In addition to the required components, the soil mixture also includes the following elements:

• ash;
• urea;
• potassium sulfate;
• potassium chloride and sulfate;
• ammonium nitrate;
• superphosphate.

This small but important point is often ignored. Amateur gardeners neglect it, as a result, all efforts to compile correct soil are wasted.

The following components should not get into the soil mixture:

• clay;
• fresh manure;
• not rotted plant residues;
• tea leaves, coffee grounds and other similar waste;
• salty sea sand.

Clay cannot be used

Clay will make the soil heavy, impervious to moisture and air, and dense. Unrotted organic matter and coffee/tea will cause rotting processes - they can begin to decompose, increasing the temperature of the substrate, which will be detrimental to many seeds and seedlings. Also, the decomposition of organic matter will entail the release of nitrogen, which will evaporate, depleting the substrate.

Fresh manure should also be discarded

The table below shows the composition of the soil for each of the most commonly grown vegetable crops.

Table. Composition of soil mixture for common vegetable crops.

Culture	Components of soil mixture and their proportions
	About 2 kg of garden soil, 1 - humus, ½ kg of sawdust (rotted), fine wood bark or coconut fiber. For 6 kg of finished substrate – 40 g of ash, 20 g of superphosphate, 10 g of urea.
White and red cabbage	5 kg turf soil, 5 kg of high peat, 2.5 kg of sand, 2 kg of humus, 1/4 kg of lime, 1/2 kg of ash or dolomite flour.
Broccoli, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts	6 kg of peat or 3 kg of leaf soil and coconut fiber, 2 kg of turf soil, 1 kg of humus, 1 kg of sand, ¼ kg of lime.
	4 kg of peat, 2 kg of turf soil, 1 kg of rotted sawdust or coconut fiber, 1 kg of humus.
	2 kg of peat, 2 kg of turf soil, 2 kg of humus, 1 kg of coconut fiber or rotted sawdust, 1 kg of sand. For 6 liters of mixture - 40 g of ash and 15 g of potassium sulfate and superphosphate.
	8 kg of peat, 2 kg of turf soil, 1 kg of river sand, mullein or humus, or 2 kg of vegetable compost, 1 kg of sawdust or coconut substrate. For 6 kg of mixture - 10 g of ammonium nitrate and potassium chloride, 20 g of superphosphate and 45 g of ash.
	2 kg of leaf soil, 2 kg of humus, 2 kg of peat or coconut substrate, 1 kg of sand. For 6 kg of mixture – 50 g of ash, 15 g of potassium sulfate, 20 g of superphosphate.

Do-it-yourself soil preparation for seedlings

When preparing the soil for sowing seedlings, it is recommended to follow the instructions and follow step-by-step recommendations. It is necessary to start preparing components in the fall. They are also mixed in the fall. Then the finished soil is sent for freezing, which will serve as additional sterilization.

It is advisable to prepare the soil in the fall

Important! At the stage of mixing soil components, do not add nutritional mineral additives. Nutrient additives are applied to the soil in the spring, after basic sterilization, before planting seeds, in the form of solutions.

Step 1. Prepare all the necessary components that you plan to add to the substrate. They must be dry and in different containers.

Soil components for seedlings

Step 2. Spread oilcloth or other suitable bedding on the floor in the utility room, or take a large container (basin, trough, tray, pan) in which you will mix the soil components.

Step 3. Take a measuring container (glass, mug, etc.) or prepare a scale. Prepare your tools - a spatula, small rakes - and put on gloves.

Step 4. Measure out the required amount of necessary ingredients, place in a container or pour onto oilcloth, mix thoroughly.

All components must be mixed

Step 5. Pour the finished substrate into small bags (ideally no more than 20 liters). If the bags are plastic, make several small holes at the top to allow the soil to “breathe.”

Step 6. Place bags of soil in the shed, utility room, where it will be kept in winter. subzero temperature.

When to plant watermelon seedlings

If we talk about the middle zone, then it is preferable to grow watermelons here (as well as some other crops - for example, melon) through seedlings. In reality, there is nothing complicated in this process; the main thing is to know when to plant watermelon seedlings and how to do it.

Harmful microorganisms contained in garden soil, leaf soil, turf soil, peat, sand, humus and other essential components of the seedling substrate can harm the seeds, introducing infection and reducing their germination. To prevent this from happening, the substrate must be disinfected. This is a very important procedure that should not be neglected if you want to get strong, healthy seedlings and productive plants.

The soil for seedlings must be disinfected

There are four ways to disinfect the substrate:

• freezing;
• steaming;
• calcination;
• etching.

You can limit yourself to one method, but it is better to combine any of the first three with subsequent etching.

Important! Freezing is carried out during the winter. All other methods begin to be used in January - February, when it is time to prepare the soil for sowing.

The method of disinfection by freezing consists of leaving a bag of soil in a room where the temperature is maintained at sub-zero temperatures in winter. If there is no such room, closer to spring the soil is taken out into the cold and left for a week at a temperature of about -10°C...15°C. Then the frozen soil is returned to the heat and allowed to defrost for a week. During this time, all the germs of weeds and pests that were not destroyed by the first freezing will “wake up” in it. After this, the soil is again sent to the frost. And so two or three times.

The most effective method Freezing is considered disinfection. The most beneficial for the soil is steaming. During this procedure, not only disinfection is carried out, but the soil mixture is also saturated with moisture. For steaming, pour the soil into a sieve with fine mesh(so as not to spill out) and, stirring, hold over a container of boiling water for 8 minutes.

When calcined, the soil is subjected to heat treatment at a temperature of +70°C...90°C. It makes no sense to set the temperature lower - not all microbes will die. It is impossible to go higher in any case, the structure of the soil will be disturbed and the fertile layer will be destroyed.

It is best to use an oven or microwave for calcination (if the volume of soil is small). The soil should be scattered on a tray (baking sheet) in a layer of 5 centimeters. Then be sure to moisturize. Despite the fact that the method is called calcination, the soil is not heated dry, but slightly moistened. The oven must be preheated to the desired temperature. The soil warms up for about 30 minutes.

This method can be used for insurance after any of the above. He is the simplest. If calcination or steaming was carried out before this, you can make a solution with cold water. If freezing - with hot (about +40°C). The solution is prepared bright pink. The soil is placed in a sieve or fine-mesh colander and poured through.

Advice! Seeds sown in a properly prepared substrate should be watered only with settled or filtered water. Tap water contains chlorine, which neutralizes the effects of compounds that activate beneficial bacteria.

The disinfected soil is placed in suitable container and watered with a solution of minerals that are necessary for a particular culture. Then the moistened substrate is laid out in containers, cups or individual pots. Now he is ready to sow seeds.

There are a lot of recipes for preparing nutrient compositions for growing seedlings, but the basic requirements for all soil mixtures are the same:

• fertility and balance of all nutrients;
• lightness, porosity and breathability;
• moisture capacity;
• acceptable acidity level (6.5–7 pH);
• sterility;
• cleanliness and environmental friendliness.

Any soil for seedlings should be light, nutritious and moisture-absorbing.

Standard, or universal, soil, acceptable for all crops, is prepared from:

• peat, turf soil, coarse washed sand (1:1:1);
• forest soil, river sand, mature humus (1:1:2);
• high-quality rotted manure, turf, peat (1:1:1).

• potassium sulfate - 5–10 g;
• superphosphate - 10–15 g;
• urea - 15–20 g;
• ash - 100 g.

Universal and any other seedling soil is prepared from several components

Before use, all soil mixtures must be disinfected by calcination, freezing, steaming or pickling.

Seedling mixture for nightshades is prepared from:

• Sod (garden) soil, well rotted sawdust, peat and humus (1:1:1:1), add to a bucket of soil:
  • ash - 110–125 g;
  • superphosphate (can be double) - 55–60g;
  • urea - 20–25 g;
  • potassium - 15–20 g.
• Fertilize lowland peat, humus (vegetable compost), sand, coconut substrate or sawdust and turf soil (8:1:1:1:2), 10 liters of soil:
  • ammonium nitrate - 10 g;
  • potassium chloride - 10 g;
  • superphosphate - 20–25 g;
  • ash - 45–50 g.

Tomatoes love nitrogen-rich soil

For bell pepper A composition of turf garden soil, coarse sand, and lowland peat (1:1:2) is suitable; use on a bucket of soil:

• ammonium nitrate - 25–30g;
• double superphosphate - 20–25 g;
• potassium sulfate - 35–40 g.

Bell pepper is demanding on soil fertility

Cabbage seedlings prefer a soil mixture of:

• Garden (turf) soil, sand, ash and lime, without mineral additives (20:5:1:1).
• Soil from the garden, last year's rotted compost, sand, peat (2:1:1:1) with mineralization per 10 liters of soil substrate:
  • potassium sulfate - 10 g;
  • superphosphate - 20–25 g;
  • chalk - 25 g;
  • urea - 15–20 g.

The soil for cabbage seedlings does not need to be additionally fertilized with mineral components.

It is better to use a mixture of: garden or forest soil, finished compost, rotted sawdust and black peat (4:4:1:2), pouring onto a bucket:

• urea - 8–10 g;
• superphosphate - 50–55 g;
• potassium - 20 g.

For eggplants, you can use the same soil compositions as for tomatoes.

Before sowing cucumbers, prepare a soil mixture from:

• Humus, black peat and sawdust (2:2:1), enriching it with mineral additives (per 10 l):
  • potassium sulfate - 15–20 g;
  • superphosphate - 20–25 g;
  • ash - 100 g;
  • urea - 20–25 g.
• Humus and garden soil in equal proportions with the addition of:
  • ammonium nitrate - 8–10 g;
  • dolomite flour - 10–12 g;
  • potassium sulfate - 10 g;
  • superphosphate - 10–15 g.

The composition of the soil for cucumber seedlings must include plant and mineral components.

I only plant tomatoes for seedlings; I prepare a seedling mixture for them from ordinary garden soil and ready-made compost. I take them in approximately equal quantities, be sure to add a little peat and clean sand. Otherwise, the soil will be heavy and a hard crust will form on its surface.

Ready-made soil mixtures are sold in stores, but there is no guarantee that they are of appropriate quality. With a little effort and some time, you can prepare exactly the composition that a specific crop needs.

I write with pleasure and about many things.

For successful growth and development of seedlings, and therefore a good harvest in the future, certain conditions are needed, first of all, high-quality soil. Some prepare the soil mixture themselves, others use ready-made substrates. Whose method “works” better?

The first option requires much more time and effort: first you need to select the components (peat, turf soil, sand or sawdust, mineral fertilizers, etc.) in appropriate proportions. Then the soil must be disinfected by steaming or freezing. The next point is mandatory monitoring of the acidity level and its regulation using deoxidizers.

All these labor-intensive steps can be avoided by purchasing ready-to-use soil in which everything is balanced.

Fertilizer with microelements Substratdünger or PGmix is ​​a complex, fully water-soluble, long-acting fertilizer with microelements in chelated form. Provides uniform soil fertility.

When purchasing soil for seedlings, you need to take into account the main factors, without which the soil mixture cannot be considered ideal in all respects.

First of all, pay attention to the composition and acidity level of the soil. The optimal indicator is pH 6-7. In soil with such a reaction root system most plants develop most successfully. Adding limestone or dolomite flour to the soil helps achieve this pH level.

Peat is the main component of soil suitable for growing seedlings. It increases soil fertility, making it more porous and nutritious.
IN ideal soil mixtures contain high-moor peat or a mixture of high-moor and low-lying peat. High-moor peat gives the soil looseness, improves its structure, air and water permeability. Lowland peat saturates the soil with organic components.

The proportion of the main macroelements (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium) included in the soil is usually indicated on the packaging. It should meet the needs of the seedlings within 1-2 weeks from the moment the seeds are sowed. Increased doses affect the rapid growth of seedlings, but do not at all guarantee them strong immunity and further productivity. Small doses do not provide seedlings with adequate nutrition, so they will require earlier and richer additional feedings.

Fertilizers included in soils must be in chelated form. Otherwise, young plants simply will not be able to absorb them.

The soils of the Fasco trademark are developed in compliance with all necessary parameters. Depending on the name of the soil mixture, the nutrients in its composition are selected according to the right proportions taking into account the needs of specific crops.

The range of soils offered by the company is intended for growing the most popular vegetable crops: nightshade, pumpkin, as well as flowers and indoor plants.

Fasco soils are offered in loose and pressed forms, so that every gardener can choose the most convenient option for himself. For example, pressed soil “Krepysh” in fluffed form will be similar in volume to 25 liters of bagged soil, but its weight will be almost 2 times less, which significantly facilitates delivery from the store to home.

The “Krepysh” series includes universal soils for seedlings of vegetable crops (tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, zucchini, cabbage, eggplant, physalis, etc.) and flowers. These peat-based substrates are completely ready for use and contain a full range of nutrients (macro- and microelements) necessary for the full growth and development of plants. There is also a pressed version of the soil with increased porosity and high moisture capacity.

• for growing seedlings of all vegetable crops;
• for picking seedlings into separate pots and open ground;
• for growing a “winter garden” on the windowsill ( green onions, lettuce and other spicy greens);
• for growing indoor flowers.

A special biosoil with a unique composition is intended for seedlings of F1 hybrid seeds. Its components are selected and balanced in such a way that the plants will not need additional feeding for 6 weeks from the moment of planting.

The soil of the “Malyshok” series is intended for growing high-quality and healthy seedlings nightshade crops: tomatoes, peppers, eggplants. Substrate contains full complex nutrients, increases seed germination, and increases subsequent yield.

Rodnichok soil is intended for seedlings of pumpkin crops: cucumbers, squash, zucchini, pumpkins. Soil components stimulate the growth of the root system and promote the formation of ovaries, and, consequently, increase productivity.

Do not forget also that during the entire growth period (from emergence to planting permanent place) seedlings need additional feeding. For young and immature plants, use only liquid fertilizers that do not burn the roots.

• Liquid organomineral fertilizers "Fasco" stimulate growth due to the content of humates, which are natural stimulants.
• Water-soluble mineral fertilizers "Fasco" strengthen the immune system and increase the stress resistance of plants. Fertilizers are in chelated form, do not contain chlorine and are packaged in convenient packaging (1 sachet (50 g) = 50 liters of ready-made solution).

The Fasko assortment also includes the necessary equipment for seedlings: peat pots, Jiffy Krepysh peat tablets, peat briquettes, greenhouses with peat tablets.

Modern technologies have come so far that to successfully grow seedlings at home there is no need to dig the soil in the garden. Special soils of a balanced composition will provide your plants with adequate nutrition for growth and development. And all you have to do is surround them with care and concern.

source

We still have time before planting seedlings, so let's look at how to disinfect the soil. Not all summer residents buy seedlings every year new soil. It is clear that the healthier the soil, the stronger and stronger the seedlings themselves will be. This means that the soil from the garden does not become a source of infections for plants, it must be disinfected before use.

At home, disinfection is carried out in the following ways:

• freezing,
• calcination,
• steaming,
• etching.

Let's analyze each method and note the advantages and disadvantages.

Prepare the soil in the fall by filling a bag with it. During severe frosts (15-20ºС), take the bag of earth outside or onto the balcony for several days. After the ground freezes, place it in a warm room for about a week. This is done in order to awaken wintering pests and weed seeds in a warm environment. The temperature contrast of the soil is arranged 2 - 3 times.

But this method has disadvantages.

1. Frost has a negative effect not only on pathogenic microorganisms, but also on beneficial microflora. This means that this method is not suitable for soil that contains vermicompost.
2. No amount of low temperatures will destroy late blight pathogens. They should only be destroyed by heat treatment.

The soil is scattered on a metal tray in a layer of no more than 5 cm, and then the soil is poured with boiling water and placed in an oven heated to 70-90ºC. The temperature should not be higher than indicated, otherwise a higher temperature will lead to nitrogen mineralization and deterioration of soil quality.

The advantage of this method is the death of all microorganisms; they simply do not survive.

Despite the fact that the method is more gentle than calcination, it is also quite reliable. Its advantage is that in addition to disinfection, it also saturates the soil with moisture.

The soil is poured into a colander and, gradually stirring, kept over a pan of boiling water for 10 minutes. In this case, the colander is placed over the pan so that the bottom of the colander does not touch the water. Some gardeners combine both temperature methods, that is, they first steam the soil and then take it out into the cold.

With such heat treatment, not only pathogenic, but also beneficial microflora dies. Therefore, the steaming procedure is carried out in advance to restore the soil before planting.

The easiest way to disinfect soil. The idea of ​​etching is to water the soil with a pink solution of potassium permanganate, diluted at the rate of 3 g per 10 liters of water. But remember that the solution only treats the surface layer of the earth and does not affect the bulk of pathogens.

Therefore, for more thorough treatment, antifungal drugs (fungicides) are used:

The meaning of the treatment is to suppress the pathogenic flora by the beneficial bacteria that are contained in these preparations and are actively developing. The process takes 2-3 weeks, therefore, processing is carried out in advance.

The essence of the method is that the prepared soil for seedlings is generously spilled with a pink solution of potassium permanganate, and then placed in the microwave for 3 minutes at high power. Watch the video to see how they do it.

The soil in the greenhouse must be processed twice: in the fall, after harvesting, preparing it for winter, and in the spring before planting seedlings. Treat the soil with the following preparations.

I described in detail how to prepare a solution for use in the article about phytosporin. It is better to buy it in paste form. After dissolving a 100 gram package in 0.5 liters of water, you will obtain a dark brown liquid. The concentrated solution is diluted to prepare a working solution no earlier than one day later. This is necessary so that the living bacteria that are in the product are activated.

Immediately before tilling the soil, 1 tbsp. l. concentrated solution is diluted in 10 liters of water and this solution is poured generously from a watering can onto the soil in the greenhouse. The greenhouse is closed for 14-20 days to allow the bacteria to do their work. After this, the greenhouse is opened and you can start planting seedlings.

The unused concentrated solution is placed in a dark place and stored there until next use.

Disinfection with a solution of potassium permanganate is the easiest way to treat soil in a greenhouse. The essence of the method is to apply a pink solution of potassium permanganate and abundant watering of the soil. To create such a solution, just dip a damp toothpick in crystals of potassium permanganate, and then dissolve what remains on the toothpick in 1 liter of water. Sprinkle the prepared pink solution generously onto the soil and leave for several hours.

Another very simple one affordable way To disinfect the soil in a greenhouse, pour boiling water over it. It is enough to pour boiling water on the ground and then cover it plastic film. Under the influence of high temperature, all harmful microbes will also die.

And there is one more point that needs to be taken into account. Even after disinfecting the soil for seedlings, pathogens can be introduced with the seeds. This means that before planting, the seeds should also be treated and then your seedlings will be strong and healthy.

Dear readers! Thank you for stopping by to visit me! I would be glad if you share in the comments your experience of growing vegetables, methods of combating plant diseases and pests. If you liked the article, share this information with your friends. Please click on the social buttons. networks that are located to the left of the article. I will be very grateful to you.

I really hope that we will communicate with you for a long time, there will be many more interesting articles on the blog. To avoid missing them, subscribe to blog news. Have a good harvest!

source

In early spring, gardeners and summer residents begin their vigorous activity associated with sowing and germinating seedlings. It’s not so easy to get healthy and strong shoots that easily adapt to open ground and will delight you in the future good harvest. The main condition for their growth, and therefore the basis for the future harvest, is properly selected or independently prepared soil.

Before you take active steps, you need to responsibly approach the question of how to prepare the soil for seedlings with your own hands.

You need to start preparing the soil not in the spring, but in August-September. Garden soil in its pure form is not suitable, but it can become the basis for a nutritious soil mixture into which the seeds will be sown. You should not ignore such a preparation stage as disinfecting the soil for seedlings if you take it from the garden or garden.

The second disadvantage of garden or garden land is the presence large quantity small pests that can destroy seeds and weak roots of young shoots.

When selecting and combining soil mixture components, you need to adhere to certain rules. Primary requirements:

• Porous (air) structure. You need to minimize clay, which clogs pores and leads to the formation of lumps.
• The presence of a sufficient amount of useful components (organic and mineral fertilizers). But in this matter one should not cross the line. Excessive mineral fertilizer content slows down the seed germination process and can lead to seedling diseases.
• No pests, larvae, insect eggs. The soil must be disinfected, but not completely sterile. Any soil mixture must contain beneficial microflora.

To destroy and prevent pests, it is necessary to study the question of how to disinfect the soil for seedlings and carry out necessary measures soil disinfection. But its structure and composition directly depend on the correct selection of components and their proportions.

The most popular universal composition soil for seedlings is prepared on the basis of garden soil (2 parts), peat (1 part), humus (1 part). The baking powder can be clean coarse river sand or sawdust. Mineral fertilizer will be ash or charcoal. All these components are carefully sifted and combined. Even a beginner who previously did not know how to properly prepare the soil can cope with this task. Seedling soil made in this way can also be suitable for indoor plants.

What's our next step? What do we do after we have prepared the ground? We disinfect the soil for seedlings, this will avoid all the troubles associated with diseases and pests of young growth.

Even the most correct composition of soil for seedlings can be useless if it has not undergone a disinfection procedure. In this case, the soil may contain pathogenic flora, eggs and larvae of pests, weed spores and mold. All of the above begins to quickly develop and manifest itself as soon as a favorable environment for germination of seedlings is created. This can cause irreversible damage to the seedlings. To avoid such problems, you need to know how to disinfect soil for seedlings.

There is a misconception that soil from bags does not need to be disinfected and is completely ready for use. In fact, it can contain exactly the same number of dangers as in a garden garden, since, in essence, it is waste soil from greenhouses and conservatories, mechanically cleaned and enriched.

How to disinfect soil for seedlings? This is a simple question, because there are a great many ways to sterilize soil. Experienced gardeners sometimes invent new methods themselves or improve existing ones.

Soil calcination is one of the most popular methods of soil disinfection. It is based on heat treatment. It can be produced in different ways.

Firstly, the soil can be roasted in the oven by spreading it on a roasting pan. The temperature should be 180 °C, and the time should be about 40 minutes. The method is very affordable and simple, but is not suitable for a large volume of land.

Secondly, you can calcinate the soil in the microwave. In this case, the wet substrate is placed in a glass container and left in the microwave for 10 minutes at maximum power.

Thirdly, it is suitable for thermal treatment of soil water bath. The method is effective, but, as in previous cases, it is designed for small volumes.

If you have prepared the soil for seedlings since the fall, you can disinfect large volume soil without much effort, simply leaving it in an unheated room or on the balcony during frosts. Winter cold will help you destroy almost all harmful microorganisms in the soil.

The whole point of biological disinfection is to populate the soil for seedlings with beneficial microorganisms that will displace harmful ones.

The most popular today biological agents- these are “Fitosporin”, “Fitop”, “Barrier”, “Barrier”, “Trichodermin”. When using biological preparations for disinfection, it is important to carefully follow the instructions, strictly observe the dosage and shelf life.

When biological preparations are used correctly, they not only destroy pathogenic flora, but also accelerate the growth of seedlings.

Chemical disinfection of soil for seedlings is best used only in exceptional cases. As in the situation with biological drugs, it is important here not to violate the instructions. Some of these drugs not only destroy pathogenic flora, pathogenic bacteria and fungi, but also inhibit plant growth.

Potassium permanganate is considered the most harmless, but also ineffective method of chemical disinfection. It eventually turns into potash fertilizer.

When disinfecting soil for seedlings using mechanical or by chemical means, we deprive it not only of pathogenic flora, but also of beneficial bacteria. They can be restored by adding bacterial fertilizer to the soil (Rizotorfin, Azotobacterin, Phosphorobacterin). Some gardeners use regular yeast for this purpose.

It is worth noting that all of the above procedures for preparing and disinfecting soil for seedlings are not suitable for “lazy” gardeners. Making your own substrate takes time and effort. It is much easier and faster to buy a ready-made composition for sowing seedlings. Those who choose this option should be aware of the pitfalls that exist.

Unfortunately, manufacturers do not always conscientiously write truthful information on the packaging. It happens that, having chosen a package with the best composition, you end up with poor peat-based soil. When planting seeds in such a composition, there is a high risk of being disappointed with the result. The seedlings either will not sprout at all, or even if shoots appear, they are unlikely to meet expectations. Therefore, you should not be too economical in this matter, but choose products from well-known companies.

Even if you have such a low-quality peat-based mixture, try to correct the situation yourself. To do this, you need to mix it with garden soil, previously disinfected. We discussed earlier in our article how to disinfect soil for seedlings. Next, be sure to check the resulting substrate for acidity, and if it is higher than normal, we correct this problem. The acidity of the soil is reduced by adding chalk or dolomite flour. Since such a soil mixture does not have enough of its own nutrients, additional mineral fertilizers must be added.

It is necessary to approach the issue of preparing land for seedlings very seriously and scrupulously. Experienced gardeners They know that the correct soil composition is 80% of success when growing seedlings.

​Similar articles​

​in general it is desirable, of course, because it is not known what kind of “bastard” can live in it. I put it in the microwave for 10-20 minutes. You need to steam it in a water bath for several hours. And in the oven for an hour. Such soil can only be used after a few days, because the microflora in it must be restored.​

​there is a wide selection of different​

Dry air. Dry air strongly stimulates physical evaporation, which again leads to the removal of salts to the soil surface. Salts supplied with water from the soil remain in the leaves after it evaporates - this is the normal mechanism of mineral nutrition. But with increased evaporation, excess salts accumulate in the leaves, and over time their concentration rises to dangerous levels. In dry air, evaporation from the surface of the soil is also high, and salts also accumulate there. Soil salinity occurs (in the form of deposits on the soil surface), which provokes plant diseases. In the room where flowers grow, air humidity must be constantly monitored and regulated. This is why salt crust does not occur with “bottle” culture, in various closed greenhouses and greenhouses. However, raising the air humidity in an apartment is an even more dreary task than cleaning irrigation water.​

A white or white-yellow salt crust on the surface of the soil mixture in a pot appears due to the predominance of purely physical evaporation of water from the soil over transpiration by the plant. There are several reasons.​

The white coating is because the soil (purchased) is not cultivated or disinfected. Therefore, there are always a lot of sticks and roots in it, and there may also be weeds and midge larvae. I prepare the soil myself. I take garden soil, purchased, river sand. I mix in equal proportions and ALWAYS pierce it in the oven. This helps get rid of weeds and pest larvae. For flowers such as azalea, gardenia, anthurium, bromeliads, I add bark.​

​Take the soil, pour it into some kind of pan and put it in the oven for 30-40 minutes at a temperature of 160-180. I always do this, and I don’t have any problems with flowers.​

​I use oven bags - very convenient​ ​The risk of pests and diseases is significantly reduced by switching to substrates that do not contain humus and consist of peat, perlite, vermiculite, coconut fiber, and bark.​

womanadvice.ru

How to heat the earth in the oven? What time is it, what is the temperature?

Dana Bessonova

​# Steaming in a colander. The colander is lined with several layers of gauze or canvas and covered with soil. A colander is secured over a container of boiling water and covered from above. Keep on fire with low boiling water for 1 hour. During the cultivation process, the soil is periodically stirred to ensure uniform heating.​
​The next way to prepare the ground for​
​Where to start preparing for sowing seeds for seedlings? Of course, with the preparation of the soil mixture! Gardeners who are too lazy to make soil suitable for seedlings with their own hands are often faced with the fact that the seeds simply do not germinate in the purchased substrate. “Unscrupulous” manufacturers are immediately blamed for this, but often the reason lies not in the substrate itself, but in its illiterate use. Many people believe that if you plant seeds in the most enriched soil, then everything will grow as well as possible, but this judgment is completely wrong. IN this material we will tell you how to properly prepare the soil for seedlings so that they grow strong and healthy.​

​Sometimes I’m just too lazy to do all this and I plant at my own peril and risk. I ruined more than one plant (I pumped it out later.)​

​soils​

​and you can’t steam the soil in the oven!! ! most The best way this is freezing

​The mechanical composition of the soil is too heavy. As a result, its high capillarity and intensive drawing of water to the soil surface.​

​In the forest good land for flowers.​

​they won’t appear if they are not there, but in general it’s probably better with worms...​
​Which tick must bite in order for it to become necessary to kill the biological balance established in the soil? do not forget that after steaming, pathogenic microorganisms will be the first to develop sharply, which can adversely affect the growth of planted plants (if, of course, the land is intended for this)​
​Chemical treatment allows you to get rid of pests and pathogens. The soil mixture, spread in a thin layer on a tray, is spilled with a solution of potassium permanganate (hot solution of potassium permanganate, 0.5-1 g per liter of water) or a pesticide (fungicide, insecticide, acaricide). Tilling the soil with biological products containing microorganisms that are antagonists of soil pathogens is more natural, but less reliable.​
​# The earth, poured in a thin layer on a metal tray, is poured with boiling water and then dried.​
​seedlings are treated with insecticides and fungicides. In order to destroy insect larvae and eggs, you can use a solution of “Aktara” or “Aktellika”, and to destroy bacteria and fungus we will use “Fundazol” or the drug “Fuselad-super”. This method is the most effective, but also the most unsafe. Most of these drugs pose a direct threat to the health of animals and people, so you should be extremely careful in the dosage and use of the solution. Another obvious plus this method– this is a long-term effect. The fact is that when watered, plants will also absorb chemicals, so they will be inedible for pests.​
​General information​
​I don’t sterilize the purchased one, I plant it right away, everything seems to be fine. And if I take something imported from a flowerbed, I put it in a bowl in the oven for 40 minutes.​

​in flower shops (there are mixtures separately for cacti, for ficus, for violets, and there are also universal mixtures).​

​I had no problems with the purchased soil. Not all companies are liked, of course. Sometimes there is too much peat, then I add soil dug up from the yard and cultivated. Sometimes I add sand from the beach, also processed.​

Lyudmila Sambros

​Difficult drainage at the bottom of the pot and, as a result, evaporation from the soil surface, as Main way water consumption

Sergey Aikin

​I also wondered about this, and the plaque and it somehow gets compacted, so that water doesn’t pass through well.​

Tanya Andreeva

​You can process it like this. The colander is covered with a loose cloth and filled with earth. Water is poured into the pan so that 3-4 cm remains from it to the colander. Cover the colander with a lid and place it on the pan. At least an hour should pass from the moment the water boils until the end of steaming. During boiling, steam passes through the earth, heats it, but does not dry it out, as during calcination. After the earth has completely cooled, you can add all the clean components to it - peat, cultivators and fertilizers.​

Tamara

​Do not heat the soil for planting in the oven! With such heating, the soil burns out and becomes unsuitable for plant nutrition. The easiest way to treat soil is steaming. Take a metal bucket, pour 2 liters of water into the bottom and fill it with soil to the top without compacting it. Close the lid and place on the stove (medium heat). After 40 minutes, remove the bucket and cool. The soil is ready for planting.​

Chirkova Maria

​Thermal and chemical treatment of the soil is carried out 1-3 weeks before use to restore soil microflora.​

Pavel Erastov

​# Freezing. The soil is kept in severe frost with complete freezing. The easiest way is to leave small packages of soil on the open balcony all winter. Freezing does not rid the soil of many microorganisms and weeds.​

evasi evasifoto

​In general, during heat treatment, most of the vitamins are lost, nutrients change structure and lose value

Elena Elshina

​To understand general principle According to which they determine which land will be best for growing seedlings of a particular crop, you need to know one simple rule. The soil mixture should correspond as closely as possible to the composition of the one where the plant will grow in the future. But this does not mean at all that you should use soil from your garden for this. The best option, which is suitable for most crops, is the top layer of soil from under acacia trees. If acacias do not grow near your home, then you can use a purchased mixture, but before that it should be treated, because it may contain pathogenic microorganisms. For these purposes, the soil can be treated with fungicides or steamed in a water bath. Tilling the soil for seedlings is one of the key points, because pathogenic bacteria can “sleep” in the soil. In addition, the soil may contain larvae and eggs of insect pests that are not averse to snacking on your young plants. If for each type of seedling it is necessary to choose its own soil composition, then the methods of processing it are always the same, we will talk about this further.​

Rimma Zakirova

​The recipe is as follows: pour the soil into an unnecessary colander and steam the soil in a steam bath under a closed lid for 15 minutes, then let it cool and the soil is ready for use.​

How to treat forest soil for planting flowers to prevent worms from appearing?

Mykhalich

But, as practice shows, it is better to dilute this mixture by half with soil from the garden or park. At the same time, you need to be careful not to introduce ants, worms or any bugs into the flowerpot.

Vladimir Apchel

​The “magic bed” is very good soil, I found it experimentally.​

​Errors when watering: poor watering, when the amount of water applied per watering is only sufficient to wet the surface layer. Watering can be rare, but should be plentiful, flushing the entire soil mass.​

​I dug it up in the park, then make sure to pluck the grass on time at first, you can add a little sand to make it loose...​

timohaav

​I have never cultivated the purchased land with anything!!​

snopic

​I like​

bolshoyvopros.ru

soil for flowers (internal)

ELENA

The soil is poured with hot water, loosened, mixed thoroughly, poured onto a baking sheet, placed in the oven and calcined at high temperature for 25-30 minutes.

Zourochka

Heat treatment also has a downside - immediately after it, the risk of introducing unwanted microorganisms into the soil and their active development in a sterile environment increases; the natural microflora of the soil is restored for a long time. Calcining the soil without moisture instead of steaming leads to a change in the structure of the soil, turning it into dust. Exceeding the recommended temperature for soil cultivation (especially commercial soil with numerous additives) can lead to the formation of undesirable compounds.​

Oksana

A microwave completely changes the structure of the earth, but here’s a recommendation.​

Choroshaya

​Soil disinfection​

ROM@SHKA

​I don’t know about you, but here in Sweden, in Stogholm, I disinfect everything.​

klumba org

Even soil taken from the lawn near your home is suitable for unpretentious indoor flowers. For southern plants or plants that require special care, it is better to purchase soil from a flower shop selected according to the type of plant.​

Where can I get normal soil for flowers? Otherwise they sell some kind of black dust with sticks in bags. Digging outside, or what?

Svetlana

​Different types of indoor plants require different soils. The stores now have a huge selection of mixtures for all varieties: for cacti and succulents, for citrus fruits, for ornamental flowering ones, for roses, for violets and the like. But there is also a simple universal primer that can also be used.​

Grey

Overfertilized soil mixture. Many of their manufacturers are guilty of this, especially when preparing mixtures for vegetables. In general, this is a problem when you use store-bought formulations. For some reason, manufacturers for the most part are confident that a fertilized soil mixture from the heart is a virtue. It’s as if they don’t know that all transplants are only done in an unfertilized environment! The next careful feeding only after obvious signs of rooting.​

Irina

​An aunt I know told me, She quit her job at Belaya Dacha 2 years ago (If you are not from Moscow, I’ll tell you. This is one of the largest greenhouse farms that supplies their products to Moscow: flowers, vegetables, herbs) So, about the land . Once every 2-3 years, the soil in greenhouses is completely changed. The question is, what should I do with the old one? Answer: they are packaged in beautiful bags and sent to the store! Sick, infected with all sorts of rubbish. If you bought the soil in a store, bake it in the oven at a good temperature (150 is enough). Or the truth is to type on the street, recorded by dogs....​
​I have never cultivated the purchased land. everything is growing well.​

Aruna

​It is very risky to use forest soil for indoor flowers! Once upon a time, out of ignorance, having decided that the forest soil was fertile and that it was natural (as opposed to purchased), I ruined my collection of 28 decorative-leaved begonias. So be very careful! It seems to me that it would be safer to use purchased soil and special fertilizers for flowers.​

Tatyana Kazarina

​Until the smoke ends.​

VERONICA Safonova

Sofia Prutnikova

​# Steaming in the oven. The damp soil is poured in a thin layer onto a baking sheet, covered on top to avoid active evaporation of moisture, stirring occasionally and kept in the oven for 1 hour at a temperature of 100-120° C.​

GIT+A

​So, how to prepare the land so that its “inhabitants” cease to pose a danger to seedlings? Let's start with the simplest and most effective way– steaming the soil in a water bath.​
I always treat new flowers with insect repellent and tick repellent, pour new soil into clay pots and into the oven at 100 degrees for 20 minutes. With the new soil you can bring in both larvae and adult insects, it will be more expensive, and you can lose all the flowers.​
​For cacti and palm trees, I usually buy special soil. And for simple flowers I take it from the garden. In parks or forest parks you can collect soil from piles dug by moles. This land is of good quality.​
​find an acacia and under it is the best soil for any seedlings and flowers, the agronomist advised me, the leaves are small and quickly rot,​
​Violation of the principle of correspondence between the volume of soil in the pot and the assimilative capacity of the roots of a given plant. There should not be significant volumes of soil not developed by the root system. Otherwise, again the predominance of physical evaporation over transpiration.
​Find a clearing where nettles grow (even dogs don’t pee there), it’s the best land! Just mix it in for different plants: for some sand, for some vermiculite, for others pine bark. And your flowers will be happy!​
​Purchased land is heavily treated with herbicides in piles (before packaging) in order to destroy the seeds weeds!! this is harmful not only to weed seeds, but also to cultivated plants, both their seeds and seedlings! Before planting, be sure to rinse the soil well with water, or water it with Baikal...A better soil prepare for plants yourself.. In addition to all this, I also use phytosporin and maxim for the soil... And most importantly, if a plant dies, everyone blames pests, diseases, drafts.., but no one thought that sometimes the problem is in the soil
​With worms it is no better, as stated in the answer above, if we are talking about indoor flowers. For garden flowers EARTHWORMS will not interfere.​
​place on a baking sheet and place in a hot oven for 15 minutes.​
​You can sterilize only the most dangerous components (turf, leaf, humus, coniferous, heather soil), and then add relatively pure peat.​

Why

​# Steaming in a microwave oven is a short-term treatment of wet soil at high temperature. The wet soil is placed in a special container or in a bag made of thick polyethylene (you must first make holes in the sealed bag of purchased soil). The optimal time for steaming 0.5 liters of soil is 5 minutes at maximum mode. Or two passes for 2-3 minutes each with mixing the soil between treatments.​

Svetlana Gordievskaya

​To do this, we need a capacious colander and a saucepan selected in such a way that it does not fall into it. Pour enough water into the pan so that it reaches the bottom of the colander, but does not leak through its holes. Then we take a colander full of soil, place it on the pan, and cover the top with a lid. The soil should be steamed for one to two hours over low heat. This method does not destroy minerals and trace elements, but at the same time destroys fungus, bacteria, larvae, and insect eggs. After this procedure, it is recommended to “populate” the soil with beneficial microorganisms. For this it is impossible would be better suited means "Baikal" or similar.​

What soil is suitable for home flowers?

Murmur

​I also have Calipso, which I use to water flower pots brought with flowers from the garden to get rid of insects without replanting them.​

Irina0405

​Purchased soil does not need sterilization if it is purchased from a “reliable” place, but if you want... I don’t recommend using ovens or microwaves because the soil contains fertilizers and all sorts of things - when heated, the stench begins to burn! and the empty land groans. I do this by pouring the soil into a container with holes in the bottom (you can use a regular large flower pot) and water it well with boiling water, then dry it

Lada

​It’s also good to take turf soil from a park or coniferous forest. In the park, carefully cut out a grass “mat” (not from a flowerbed lawn :)), collect soil, and then return the grass “mat” to its place. In the forest, you can collect soil along with needles or fallen leaves. This is if you can't buy it. But ready-made special mixtures are still better. Houseplants that are too capricious “love” them more.​

Sveta S

​Errors in dosing fertilizers (overdose), as well as applying fertilizers during the dormant period of the plant. For some reason, current manufacturers began to recommend solution concentrations of 2 g/l or more. This is not true. In general, a guaranteed non-toxic concentration can be recognized as 1 g/l, and for certain groups of plants (ferns, orchids) 0.5 g/l and even 0.1 g/l.​ ​There was no sadness... Throw these flowers away with the soil! All problems will be solved....​ ​And I never process it, everything grows normally.​​In any case, everything is done in a simple way - you pour boiling water on the ground generously, the “living creatures” you don’t need will rush to the surface, but as a rule they die while still in the ground.​

​220 degrees until strong steam comes out.​

Barsko

​Sand, expanded clay, pebbles, gravel are washed to clean water, poured into a metal container, filled with water and kept on fire at a low boil for 30-60 minutes.​

Katalina

​# Steaming in water. The soil is poured into a metal container, filled with water until evenly moistened, covered with a lid and kept on low heat for 1 hour.​