A simple DIY wooden box. DIY wooden box. How to put a lock

A simple DIY wooden box.  DIY wooden box.  How to put a lock
A simple DIY wooden box. DIY wooden box. How to put a lock

A box is a very useful item in everyday life. Buying a designer box is an expensive pleasure. If you want to become the owner of an exclusive item or give to a loved one box self made, bringing your idea to life is quite simple. How? Make a box yourself. If you have never worked with wood before, choose plywood as your material. Even a novice craftsman can make something out of plywood with his own hands when he adheres to simple and understandable rules.

Peculiarities

This is how plywood is characterized by those who like to independently make the little things necessary for a comfortable life. It won’t take much time to master the skills of working with plywood. Having made a box from plywood, you can easily make it from of this material shelves, frames and other items that will become an exclusive decoration of the house and the pride of its owners.

The choice of material affects the quality of the product, so it is better to choose grades 1 and 2 of plywood.

The right choice of material for such a necessary thing - main question, which must be resolved before starting work. Veneer comes in 4 grades. Only grades 1 and 2 of plywood are suitable for the box. When purchasing material, you must pay attention to how well its sheets are glued.

Plywood must be dried before work. If this rule to get around, when making the box you can break the tool. Is veneer color important? It all depends on how the product appears in finished form. If the plywood box is not subsequently varnished or painted, attention should be paid to the color of the veneer. If you are going to cover something with paint or varnish, then the color of the base material does not matter.

The thickness of plywood is an important issue, which usually confuses beginners. The thickness of the plywood and the dimensions of the box are closely interrelated. The larger the item, the wider the plywood is needed. Such products are usually made of plywood, whose thickness is from 4 to 6 mm. Why is thinner plywood not recommended? Because the ends of the box will be more difficult to process. Thin plywood when subjected to mechanical stress, it is capable of delamination.

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Tools and drawings

To make the box you will need the following tools and materials:

Drawing of a box with dimensions.

  • plywood;
  • jigsaw with a supply of files;
  • screwdriver;
  • hammer;
  • set of files;
  • sandpaper;
  • rollers;
  • pom-poms;
  • tassels.

To make such an exclusive product, you will need a jigsaw and a supply of files for it. A wood saw is used to cut plywood and roughly process blanks for the future item. If the box is made using self-tapping screws, you need a screwdriver. A set of files for woodworking, a hammer, and sandpaper will also be needed. If ready product to be painted or varnished, you must initially take care of the presence of varnish, coloring matter, rollers, tassels, pompoms and other devices with the help of which operations are carried out.
To make the product look aesthetically pleasing, you need a drawing and drawing.

The first step is to draw a sketch of the item, where the estimated dimensions of the plywood box are indicated. If you are making a box for the first time, there is a high probability that somewhere in the calculations there will be an inaccuracy. To avoid wasting time, it is best to first make the box (its layout) out of paper. If you like the paper box and its dimensions are considered suitable, the drawing of the item is transferred to graph paper.

Diagram of parts of a multifaceted box.

Plywood is cut based on this drawing. The parts that will make up the box are placed closer to each other. This will make cutting much easier. Plywood can also be cut using paper templates. To speed up and simplify the production of the box, it is better to draw the templates using a computer and print the drawings on a printer. As soon as the wall, bottom, and lid of the future item are cut out, they begin to assemble it.

You can hide various contents in these containers with beautiful connections, and making such a set will not be difficult.

PROJECT OVERVIEW

Overall dimensions: 184x498x143 (width x length x height).

Stepped offset bases will allow you to better see the boxes and emphasize the accuracy of the connections.

They can be made from scraps available in any workshop.

MASTERING THE SKILL

A creative approach to joint making techniques simplifies the formation of tenons.

Learn how to install the bottom of a tenon box using a special router.

Learn how to make perfect curves with milling table.

Make boxes

Finishing and assembling boxes

1. Inspect all surfaces and sand further if necessary. Apply finishing coat.

2. Shorten the screws securing the handles (Fig. 1) and install all handles in place. Insert the boxes into the bases so that they rest on the slats E.

MASTER'S ADVICE

How to make perfect rounded corners boxes

By selecting tongues in the walls for the bottom with a slotted cutter, you eliminate the need to fill holes in the corners of the box, which will inevitably appear if you make tongues with a groove disc or a straight cutter.

But in this case, you need to round the corners of the bottom in accordance with the radius of the spline cutter. Here is a simple and error-free way to quickly cope with this task: Install a cutter on the router table for roundings, the radius of which equal to the radius slotted cutter (in our case 8 mm).

Secure the router table rip fence flush with the router bit bearing and parallel to the cross fence slot. Then attach a wooden plate to the head of the cross stop, the end of which should almost touch the longitudinal stop. Now, pressing the bottom blank B to longitudinal stop and supporting the back with the trim, form rounded corners as shown.

DIY boxes - drawings


Today in the master class I will show you how to make a box that will last forever, so that it can be passed on to the inheritance. The whole process will be shown from creating the wooden box itself to decorating it.

I make almost all the blanks for my work myself and people often ask me questions regarding the blanks specifically. Therefore, I want to divide my MK into two parts.
Part No. 1 - blank.
Part No. 2 - decor.

So, I'm starting part #1.

We will need:

  • Plywood 8 mm,
  • Wooden block 2*4 cm,
  • Nails,
  • Glue moment "Crystal"
  • Jigsaw,
  • Screwdriver with grinding attachment,
  • Hammer,
  • Blowtorch (gas cylinder)
  • Stain on water based(Oak color)
  • Sandpaper (various thicknesses)

In this photo, I have already cut the plywood into pieces of the required length.

Before I start making a blank, I sketch out a drawing on a piece of paper. Here, I share with you my “drawings”.
To understand what we will collect.
The box will be rectangular shape(front view). Inside (top view) the box will be divided into three parts. The middle part will be covered with a lid, and on the left side there will be a separately made small box. As planned, this is for the first tooth.

This is a “drawing” of the lids, which will be located alone inside the large box, in the middle compartment. And the second one is on a small box for a tooth (only it will be square).
The lids will consist of two parts. I labeled them as: Lid and Inner Lid.

And these are all the dimensions that we need for a large box.
Naturally, these are inaccurate numbers (since our plywood is 0.8 cm thick), so you will have to sand some pieces.

These are the dimensions for a “tooth” box.

I’ll say right away, because I have to answer this question most often. People ask why they can’t cut plywood straight with a jigsaw?
And I can't do it! Then, after cutting, I carefully polish each end of the piece. An ideal cut is only possible on a machine with a jigsaw; no matter how you look at it, you won’t be able to cut it straight.
I'm lucky, our friends have theirs furniture manufacturing. Of course, I won’t go to them just for one box (so as not to bother me), but when I need to cut a lot of plywood, I go to them and they’ll cut everything for me in 10 minutes. Thank them very much for this!
I lay out all the pieces of plywood (after having thoroughly sanded all the walls that will be inside the box, otherwise it will be inconvenient to do this later) and, armed with glue, I begin to assemble the box.

When the glue “sets”, I knock everything down with nails. The length of the nails is 2 cm.

Little by little the outlines of the future box are already visible.
I always assemble the boxes in this order. First the bottom, then the ends, and then the front sides.

This is how the tray turned out.

As we see, side walls stick out a little. We carefully sand all such places.

The first cap is ready. The lid is on the middle compartment inside the box.
Just glue and knock together two rectangular pieces.
Of course, the carnations are visible from the inside, but we will cover them later with decorative nails.

The middle cap took its rightful place. And the small “tooth” box is ready.

Here it is, but closer.

Next, you need to put a lid on a large box. For this we need wooden block(2*2 cm is good, but I didn’t find that, I only found 2*4 cm).
In general, I had to saw it lengthwise to get the dimensions I needed. This is where a jigsaw comes in handy.

Cover in progress. I glue the bars with glue and knock them down (on top) with nails.

The preparation is ready! You can start firing.

Attention! Dangerous! Working with a blowtorch requires special care. Do not handle it for children! Adults should take it only in the presence of a bucket of water!
I have been working with stain for a long time, but I like the way stain looks after firing. The result is a flow of colors. That’s why I always “resort” to firing.
I saw a lot of works (by other masters) with firing. I don’t want to offend anyone, but sometimes I just want to scream: “Why are you burning plywood like that?” Plywood is not wood, it does not require strong firing. Moreover, she is AFRAID of strong fire. The plywood begins to burn layer by layer and unsightly burnt chips form.
In general, we lightly burn the workpiece, and we burn it so that the “pattern” of the scorch marks is initially beautiful.

I cover it with stain three times (this is optional, depending on what intensity you want the final color).

Then we take sandpaper (of varying hardness) and begin to rub all the ends, giving the plywood an old, centuries-old look.
You can see in the photo that the small box has already been sanded.

And this is the lid from a large box. BEFORE and AFTER view.
Perhaps this is where I will finish part one. And I will move on to the second stage.

We will need:

  • Trafathers,
  • Putty,
  • PVA glue,
  • Acrylic paints,
  • Acrylic enamel,
  • Construction paper tape,
  • Felling,
  • Microbeads, rhinestones, beads,
  • Claim. flowers (paper, plastic),
  • Various metal fittings and other small items for decoration (your choice).

We will only decorate the lids, and if you remember, we have 3 of them.

As always, I mix the putty (finishing putty, construction putty) with water and PVA glue. This is the consistency.
There is about half a cup of putty, 1 teaspoon of pva and 1 teaspoon of water.

I'm making the stencils more comfortable.

And I transfer the drawing to the workpiece.

To prevent the design on the lids from looking monotonous, I use two different stencils.

The stencils are applied, we are waiting for complete drying.
After drying the fine sandpaper I carefully polish all the inscriptions.

I will paint all these decors black acrylic paint. Some I will paint with a brush, some with a sponge, and some full immersion in a glass in which black paint was diluted in water.

While it looks a little gloomy, I even felt sad at that moment. It looks like the box should be “Mom’s Treasures,” but here the flowers are black. I continue to work.

I also paint the lids black.

Then, while the black color is still wet, I touch it a little with a sponge and here and there with green paint (also acrylic). We wait until it dries.
While I wait, I decide to varnish all my boxes. I use nitro varnish. I varnish 5-6 times, carefully sanding each layer of varnish so that the final surface is smooth.

I return to the lids when the first (black layer) has dried.

I mix greens with white and apply paint to the surface with a wide brush. As if highlighting the relief.

I apply the paint like this: the first layer, for example, along. The second layer of paint, the one that will be lighter, across. And then it’s the other way around again.

Each time I add a little more white.

In the end, I settled on this color.

It looks like it’s already a good color, but I want to add a little mother-of-pearl. Acrylic enamel is quite suitable for this role. I dip the sponge a little into the enamel and walk over the surface of the lids.

It's hard to see in the photo, but the shine has appeared. Exactly what is needed!

At this stage, I thoroughly coat all the covers (on top, where there is a stencil) with aerosol varnish.
I'm waiting for it to dry.

When the varnish has dried, using “Crystal” moment glue, I glue previously painted decors onto the large lid: flowers, filigree, twigs, etc.

I use the same paints that were used to paint the lids to paint the glued decors. In the same order - first dark green, then more, more and more white.

I add a little gold. And again I carefully varnish the entire lid (on top) with aerosol varnish.

When the varnish on our flowers has dried, I begin to decorate the composition using all kinds of beads, seed beads, microbeads and rhinestones (mostly Green colour, in order to maintain the style of the boxes).

I divided the metal fittings into two parts. I paint the fittings that will not be attached to the lids in the color of the lids, and vice versa, I leave the fittings that will be attached to the lids in their native bronze color.
I didn’t remove how to “install” the fittings onto the screws, I think everything is clear here. I put on the loops, screwed on the legs and corners, and glued the cutting.

There you go!

I really like the way moderately burnt plywood looks.

I varnished everything so that now, it seems to me, I can sit on this composition.

The photo is closer so that you can see all the stitches.

By the way, here (in these corners) you can insert a photo of the first ultrasound. I specially curved the corners so that the photo could be easily inserted there.
It’s better, of course, to laminate the ultrasound photo, so it will be more durable.

Almost all metal fittings are also trimmed with green rhinestones.

General issues

Wooden boxes are a wonderful container for all kinds of “treasures” accumulated by the fair sex - both small and adult. They enjoy constant success due to their beauty, spaciousness and practicality, but the prices for such products are often very high. Therefore, many ladies (or their gentlemen) decide to create a useful thing on their own. This decision cannot be accused of being illogical, since many people can make a box out of wood. To make a simple product, no special skills or abilities are required, you only need a great desire, accuracy, patience and attention to the smallest details. Fantasy will not be a hindrance either.

What are they?

When planning the creation of a box, a person usually knows what functions will be assigned to this small item. But with form and additional elements It's often quite difficult to figure it out. Such chest boxes are usually bought or made to store useful or memorable items. Among them:

  1. Bijouterie, Jewelry. In the first case, several small compartments are needed. It’s convenient when they “know how” to move inside the box. The second option assumes that inner space must ensure the safety of expensive items. In this case, the models are often covered with velvet, and a mirror is placed on the lid for convenience during fitting.
  2. Sewing supplies. These wooden boxes also have several compartments designed for needles, threads, and accessories. For ease of carrying, a handle is added to the elements.
  3. Cigars. This box has its own name - a humidor. These rectangular models often divided into sections, they are equipped with a humidifier and hygrometer.
  4. “Stash eggs” are untouchable cash reserves. Here is the most convenient option- a rectangle designed like a small book.
  5. Postcards, letters, photographs. Such boxes can be made in the shape of a heart.

The range of store models is quite wide: there are items with locks, watches, and secret drawers. However, the main goal of an amateur in “box making” is to become familiar with the simplest design, and one can set out to conquer new heights only when experience comes and the master “gets his hands on it.”

Making a simple box

If the house has everything necessary materials and tools, as well as minimal “communication” skills with the latter, then the work will not create any special difficulties. It is necessary to prepare a suitable piece of plywood (preferably multi-layer). There should be no visible defects - cracks or knots. The list of tools includes:

  • pencil, ruler;
  • glue (for example, Moment Crystal);
  • hand jigsaw;
  • hammer;
  • sandpaper of different grain sizes;
  • file;
  • small loops for boxes;
  • clamps, vices;
  • screws (for example, 2.5x8 mm).

The first stage is drawing or searching suitable scheme in virtual space. For a beginner, it is still more advisable to choose a simple rectangular design, since in its manufacture you can avoid most of the errors that a complex geometric shape will certainly provoke.

Case manufacturing

First, the body parts are transferred to a plywood sheet. Using a pencil and a ruler, draw 4 walls on it - two long frontal and two short side. Grooves are marked at the edges of the ends of the elements; their height is equal to the thickness of the plywood sheet. This connection will make the box more reliable, similar to store-bought items. Then they draw the bottom, which should be located inside the walls, at the same level (flush) with their bottom.

All drawn elements are carefully cut out with a jigsaw. After the blanks are made, all ends are carefully sanded with sandpaper. Then it is processed in the same way internal walls boxes and the upper surface of the bottom, otherwise it will be much more difficult to do this later.

The walls are glued together, having previously coated the spiked ends with the compound. They are driven into the sockets; if necessary, they are ground down a little with a file. Lastly, attach the bottom. If it refuses to fit inside the walls, it is ground (grinded) again until the base can “sit” tightly in its rightful place. Then the semi-finished product is placed in clamps (vices).

Construction of the cover

It can be made flat, but such a thing will immediately lose a considerable amount of originality. Therefore, the lid is made in the same way as the body. First, the large part is cut out, then the small side walls with grooves. All workpieces are also polished: first the walls with internal sides, then the lid, it can be processed from both at once.

After gluing the parts, the lid is also placed in clamps. After both parts of the box have dried, they are connected using hinges and mini-screws. The holes for them are made in advance; their diameter is slightly smaller than that of the fasteners. If you forget about this condition, the plywood may tear.

Boxes are made from wood in almost the same way - from boards, but in this case more serious tools are needed. For high-quality cutting, use a circular and miter saw, curly edges obtained using a milling cutter.

Wooden box with drawers

Any tree is suitable for its creation - beech, oak, pine or ash. The main requirements are dry wood and no knots.

Lid and bottom

First, they come up with the shape of the product, make identical stencils for the lid and bottom. Two blanks are cut out of the boards, a stencil is placed on them, and an outline is outlined. Grind them down manual router, which is fixed in such a way that only the cutter - its working part - protrudes above the surface of the table. After turning the shaped workpiece, they proceed to grinding. For this operation, use a wooden disk on which a strip of sandpaper is attached.

Frame

For it, take three boards about 10 mm thick and the same height. The ends are cut with a saw at an angle (45°). Then the elements are glued together with any glue (for example, the same Moment). For the front part of the box, 2 absolutely identical planks are cut out, their thickness is 15 mm. The first part is glued to the top of the box body.

For the second, a box is assembled, the thickness of its back and side walls is 50 mm, the front wall and bottom are 40 mm. The box is glued together, not forgetting to control the straightness of the corners. Then a second board is glued to the front wall of the box. If necessary, make partitions in the box; for them I also use boards 40 mm thick.

For the upper, stationary drawer, cut out the bottom, then glue it. After inserting the lower sliding element, check its movement. If there are any obstacles, they are removed by grinding. Last stages- installing partitions in the upper section and securing the lid to the box with hinges.

Decoration of the box

The finished product is decorated at your own discretion - simply treated with stain or painted, covered with several layers of varnish.

Blowtorch with stain

There are more interesting option, but it requires presence blowtorch, work with which simply must be carried out with extreme caution. For example, it would be a good idea to bring a bucket of water to the work site in advance.

First, the workpiece is burned very slightly until light scorches appear. Since plywood is very afraid of strong fire, you should not get too carried away, otherwise unsightly areas will appear on the material, and it will no longer be possible to camouflage them.

After completing this stage, the box is covered with several layers of stain (2-3), the number of these operations depends on what color intensity the master wants to get as a result. Finally, all ends of the product are processed with sandpaper. As a result, the new box will turn into an object with almost a century of history.

How to make a carved lid?

Mini-chests with a carved lid look more attractive, but you need to prepare for the fact that the first experience will not be very successful.

For wood carving you must have at least minimum set. These are knives - a scythe and a pen, a pencil, a file, sandpaper, a ruler, a stencil or a compass. The best option- a set of special chisels designed specifically for wood carving. Smooth edges are obtained using a knife that has a three-sided sharpening.

The design is transferred to the lid using a stencil, or you can make the pattern yourself. After this, they begin to cut out the “extra”: an oblique knife is used for straight lines, a feather tool is used for more intricate shapes. The finished thread is cleaned with sandpaper or a file.

How to install a lock?

Purchased products can boast of real locking mechanisms. Unfortunately, such locks are beyond the capabilities of a novice to install on their own. But you can decorate the box with an equally attractive decorative hook or padlock.

In addition, the kit includes miniature screws or nails, so this decoration is quite easy to fix yourself. The only difficulty awaiting the master is the exact marking for fasteners. Otherwise, the box will simply refuse to close.

Since making a wooden box is quite simple, to get acquainted with the process it is enough to see the whole operation with your own eyes once. And one of the popular lifesavers will help with this - a useful and interesting video.

Let's try to make an object such as a wooden box with our own hands. How is this accessory useful? Carved wood boxes are perfect for storing small souvenirs and small collectibles such as stamps or coins. They will decorate the interior and give it a touch of originality.

Master Class. DIY wooden boxes

We will make the box from a sheet of plywood 8 mm thick as the most available material. We must first make sure that the plywood we are going to use has a smooth surface and does not contain peeling, marks from knots, etc. minor defects. The texture pattern should be uniform, then the sheet can be easily cut without fear that pieces of veneer will break off during the work.

Well, let's begin. First of all, a drawing of our future product must be applied to the prepared surface - a diagram of a wooden box. To do this, take a pencil and simple drawing tools such as a ruler and compass. If you have a finished drawing that needs to be scaled, take care to accurately draw every angle and line. Correct and neatly executed drawing of a wooden box - necessary condition success.

Rectangular elements allow you to use plywood sheets most economically. If the layout is successful, there will be almost no unnecessary scraps.

Cutting it out correctly

Then, using a jigsaw, we begin the procedure of carefully cutting out all the main parts - the lid, bottom and walls. The smoother our thread, the more accurate the contour of the part we will get, as a result of which the time spent working with a file will be reduced.

Particular care should be taken when cutting along the boundary line of adjacent parts. If it goes askew, then both parts will be damaged at once, or both will have to be aligned later.

After this, the most critical stage begins, associated with the most delicate work. It's about about sawing joints in the form of tenons. For our small box, small square spikes of a simple shape are suitable. Their height should correspond to the thickness plywood sheet, that is, in our case, equal to 8 millimeters.

Which tool to choose

As a rule, they are cut out. But we can also take a jigsaw or its blade is excellent for working with wood, since it almost does not bend.

If you choose a jigsaw, you should use it to cut almost along the intended line. The indentation towards the cut area should not exceed one or two millimeters in size. Small excess wood can be removed later with a file.

Thus, we made straight cuts. To connect them, bring the jigsaw to the edge and carefully turn it 90 degrees. At the same time, its movement up and down does not stop.

In the same way, we cut out and remove all unnecessary fragments. From the quality of execution this stage work depends on how durable and reliable our future product will be. If at this stage we inadvertently spoil the workpiece, all the work will have to start all over again.

Now you're screwed

Now let's move on to cutting out the lid for our box. Undoubtedly, such work is much easier to do than cutting out tenons. But let's not relax. Do not forget to maintain the evenness of the cut and maintain a right angle between the planes of our saw and the surface of the plywood sheet. This is done so that subsequently there are no gaps between the sawn parts of the lid and walls.

This completes the most difficult stage of the work. The next task in order is to assemble a wooden box with your own hands into a single whole from individual elements. If the thorns have difficulty entering the nest or do not enter at all, do not be discouraged. It's worse when they fall through there.

Subtleties of technology

Excess material is easily filed off. It is best to choose one that has a square cross-section. Such grinding should be carried out in small portions with constant fitting of the parts relative to each other.

To make the adjustment as accurate as possible, it should be done on a table or other flat surface. For greater reliability, the walls should be glued. The parts must be pressed together at least for a short period of time.

The most convenient way to do this is with a vice or clamp. At the same time, do not forget to insert a small wooden spacer between the product and the steel surface of the tool.

DIY wooden box: attach the lid

Having secured the walls of the box, we will begin adjusting and gluing the bottom, as well as the lid. The lid of our box will be attached to the body using small metal hinges, which are easy to buy at any hardware store. You can purchase small hinges in quantities of 2 or 3 pieces or one long hinge for furniture.

When working with hinges, you need to make sure that they do not stick out above the surface of the product body. Therefore, in the place where each of them is attached, the wood should be lightly selected. For this we take a jigsaw or a small saw along with a straight chisel.

To screw the hinges, you should select small screws, the size of which will correspond to the diameter of the hole in the hinges. So that they are carefully screwed exactly in the intended place, and the plywood does not end up splintered, the hole should be drilled with a size slightly smaller than the diameter of the screw. This difference should be no more than one or two millimeters.

Don't forget about the castle

WITH outside It is advisable to equip the box with some kind of locking mechanism in the form of, for example, a lock, hook or latch. This will help preserve the contents and prevent the box from opening at the most unexpected moment.

All such parts are fastened similarly to hinges using small screws in pre-drilled holes for them. If the material of the box is wood and not plywood, even inserting a small furniture lock is allowed.

The product is basically ready. We hope that our project: “Wooden boxes” was successful, and the product turned out neat and visually attractive. If this is not the case, don't be upset. A beginner who takes on the creation of such a masterpiece for the first time rarely succeeds in everything right away.

About possible disadvantages

A DIY wooden box does not have to turn out perfect the first time. More often than not, the final version shows us unexpected omissions. Most noticeable are the annoying gaps between elements that do not fit tightly enough. Having discovered something like this, do not give in to the first impulse - to get rid of the unsuccessful craft. It would be wiser to carefully examine the product, analyze where the mistake was made, and take into account this useful experience.

As for future fate our product, then a lot can be corrected here. For example, cracks may well be sealed and masked. After all, there are many cunning tricks.

The easiest option is to take ready-made wood putty and cover up unwanted cracks with it. You can independently prepare the so-called glue used in the work as the basis. This option is also suitable if we want to veneer our box.

In addition, the product can be coated with drying oil or painted. In the latter case, after filling the parts, we additionally prime them before painting.

Decorating our craft

But making a rectangular box and calling it a box is not all. The product must be decorated, and it is best to do this with carvings.

The carved box is a real work of art. Exist different types wooden boxes. In former times, many of them were carefully kept in every home. After all, people have been fascinated by wood carving with the creation of a wide variety of geometric patterns for a long time.

In Russian villages the majority wooden products, from furniture to dishes, was decorated with elaborate carvings. The basis of such decor was always a simple geometric pattern, and the aesthetic effect exceeded all expectations. Boxes carved from wood were created by real masters of their craft, they were strong and durable.

Learning to work with wood

If you don't know the techniques yet geometric carving- it's time to learn. It's not that difficult at all. And in order not to spoil our finished, so carefully made box, we will first practice on a separate piece of wood - for example, on a cutting board.

The tools required for this procedure are the simplest. You and I will be able to get by with just two knives: the so-called feather knife and the jamb knife. triangular shape, as well as a ruler, pencil and compass.

A pen knife is used when you need to cut out an elongated element, for example, a petal or a fairly long groove. It is also used for small-width slots.

The second tool is used to cut through various geometric shapes, mostly triangular in shape, but also long straight lines. Each knife must be sharp and have a comfortable handle.

Geometric carving technology

Immediately before starting work, you should draw a sketch of the future pattern on the board. You can draw it with a pencil, using a ruler and compass. Or you can use a ready-made stencil, transferring the drawing onto the board using carbon paper.

Let's say our ornament contains plant motifs. This is where you should start working. The technology is simple: the thumb is pressed against the board as tightly as possible, and the index finger lightly touches it in the area of ​​the upper joint. This is how you hold the knife, you have the opportunity to control and change the angle of its inclination and the depth of immersion into the wood. By using thumb The blade moves smoothly and accurately.

Having cut through one side of the element, the board should be turned over and a similar operation should be done on the opposite side. Please note: if the shavings from under the knife curl like a rope, it means that the tools are sharpened quite well.

How to cut out geometric shapes

Elements in the form of triangles and other similar figures are cut out using a jamb knife. We cut its heel into the wood at an angle of about 45 degrees, but do not bring it to the edge of the pattern. We repeat the operation with different sides geometric element.

We join all the slots on the sides. As a result, the cut piece of wood falls out of the board. The remaining wood that could not be cut with a knife is cleaned evenly and carefully.

Using the same principle, we cut out all the other elements of the picture. At the end of the process, take sandpaper and sand everything thoroughly. Can be carried out additional processing natural impregnation.

So we learned the simplest wood carving techniques. In the future, with an increase in the number of crafts and, accordingly, experience, our skill will increase. We will be able to make wooden boxes, not only varnished or painted various colors, but also decorated with extraordinary fantasy ornaments that will look simply luxurious.