Orthodox stories. Little wonders of Athos

We were preparing for a visit to Athos, the Holy Mountain, the earthly destiny of the Mother of God, long before the trip. We searched through a bunch of information on the Internet, read Alexander Dvorkin’s wonderful book “Stories from Athos,” and even wrote to the mail of the pilgrimage center of the Holy Mountain in Thessaloniki (though we never received an answer). We knew that we needed to get Diamonitirion (permission to visit Mount Athos) and contact the monasteries where you plan to stay. Everyone knew, but did nothing. They only had a sincere desire to get to the Holy Land! We decided that it would be as the Lord willing.
I already wrote about my visit to the pilgrimage center in Thessaloniki upon arrival in Greece: I will not repeat it. And now, after a week beach holiday in Halkidiki, on August 25 at 7 am, taking a camp breakfast with us on the road, we boarded our faithful friend Grigorius and headed from Simandra to Ouranoupolis. The road lay through the small towns of Polygyros and Ierissos, as well as through small Greek villages, olive groves and vineyards.

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The sun was just rising and it was not hot at all. In less than two hours, without any incident, we reached the port city of Ouranoupolis. Life on the pier was already in full swing. Many small trucks lined up for the ferry, a large bus brought a group of pilgrims - everyone was planning to get on the only regular ferry, which leaves from Ouranoupolis to Daphne at 9.45 in the morning.
We had very little time left before departure, no more than 40 minutes, so we immediately found the office where diamonitirions are issued. We presented our passports to the office employee, still not at all sure that we would be able to receive them. He looked at us sternly, reminded us of the prohibitions regarding appearance, and gave us the treasured documents.

We parked Grigorius on the only free piece of land near the road - there was no time to look for a special parking lot that I had read about on the Internet - and headed to the ferry.

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When entering the ferry, a special employee checks the pilgrim’s diamonitirion, as well as his appearance. I was in long, but still shorts - during the day in July, the heat of forty degrees is normal for Greece - and I was sent to change clothes in the cabins located on the pier. After changing clothes, we boarded the ferry and chose a place on the upper deck to be impressed by the views of the Holy Mountain, which was still unknown to us. There are always a lot of pilgrims on the ferry; almost all the seats on the upper deck were occupied.

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Who was there - Serbs, Romanians, Bulgarians, Americans, Greeks, and of course our compatriots. A group of four pilgrims, led by a priest, sat next to us for good luck.
And finally, the ship set sail from the pier and with bated breath we began to peer into the shores of a mysterious and unique land, listening to the stories of our rather talkative neighbor-priest. From him we learned that in 2014 there was a terrible fire on Mount Athos. The fire came from Greece and destroyed almost all the vineyards located in the northern part of Athos. heat and strong wind negated all the efforts of firefighters and military personnel. Monoxylit and the Russian monastery of New Thebaida were engulfed in fire; one monk, who was driving along the road and fell into a fire trap, died. The all-destroying elements threatened to destroy Hilandar and Zograf. Then the council of abbots of the monasteries decided to meet each other halfway procession with the miraculous icon of the Mother of God. And so, when they met, the sky became wild and heavy rain poured down, which put out the fire! By the way, miraculously the body of the Thebaid monastery remained untouched by the fire.
Traces of the raging fire were visible even four years later; the burned areas looked gray due to the paucity of regenerating vegetation.
The first stop of the ferry is the pier of the Serbian monastery of Hilandar.

A large group of pilgrims left the ship. Next are the monasteries of Dochiar and Xenophon.

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And now our goal is getting closer and closer - the monastery of the holy great martyr and healer Panteleimon, or as he is also called Russik.

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At the pier, the pilgrims were met by a monk who took us to the archondarik - the monastery hotel. In Russika this is a large six-story building of pre-revolutionary construction with wide corridors and twisted cast-iron railings. There was a sign on the door of the archondarik that pilgrims were not accepted in connection with the celebration of Panigir until August 9. Despite this, we were still placed in the corridors of the hotel building.
After treating ourselves to the ouzo and Turkish delight offered to our guests according to the Athonite tradition, we went for a walk around the monastery. The beauty of the temples and monastery buildings, the well-kept gardens are simply amazing!

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But besides admiration for the outside, I felt a deep sense of reverence from touching the shrine! Tears involuntarily flowed from my eyes.
Despite the strict ban on photography and video shooting, we dared to capture this beauty with a camera. However, the camera refused to work, requiring the device to be rebooted, although this had never happened before and the batteries were fresh. After several attempts to turn on the camera, we realized that this was a sign from above and no longer tried to break the ban!

This is the only photo we were able to take here.

The rest of the photos of the Panteleimon Monastery are from the Internet. At half past one, the temple was opened for us, where the shrines of the monastery are kept.

Among them is the head of the great martyr and healer Panteleimon, the foot of St. Andrew the First-Called, honest head the Apostle Luke, the relics of John the Baptist, the apostles: Peter, Philip, Thomas, Bartholomew and Barnabas; the first martyr Stephen, Isaac of Dalmatia, Dionysius the Areopagite, Saint and Wonderworker Nicholas, the unmercenaries Cosmas and Damian, Cyril of Jerusalem, Tryphon and many others. And then a prayer service was served on the occasion of the sending of the head of the great martyr and healer Panteleimon to Bulgaria. With the subsequent religious procession, we were lucky enough to “conduct” the Healer’s relics to the boat at the pier.
After the evening service with all the brethren, we were invited to the refectory. The refectory is very large, designed for a large number of guests and pilgrims on holidays.

On the left wall there is a fresco depicting ordeals and aerial demonic guards. The monastic meal is modest, but surprisingly tasty: fresh cucumbers and tomatoes, noodles with mushrooms, wonderful olives, monastery bread, cold water or compote and watermelon. Garlic and onions are always present separately in a saucer on the table. The dishes in the monastery are exclusively metal. The meal is quite limited in time, 10-15 minutes, no longer. So there's no time to talk. During the meal, the lives of the saints are read. On Wednesdays and Fridays there is only one meal a day in the monastery, on other days there are two.
According to the charter, the monastery gates are closed at sunset. We wandered a little along the monastery paths, admired the magnificent sunset and went to rest. Thoughts about the upcoming ascent to the top of Mount Athos tomorrow did not allow me to fall asleep! Going out onto the archondarik’s balcony, I looked at the starry sky for a long time and listened to the whisper of the sea peacefully splashing below.
The loud ringing of a bell woke up the sleepers at three o'clock in the morning. This is how the monks on Mount Athos call everyone to the morning service. Usually the service starts at half past three in the morning and ends at half past nine. The service was performed by the abbot of the monastery, Abbot Eulogius himself, a handsome, thin monk with a quiet, high voice.
The service took place in the Catholicon of St. Panteleimon.

The temple was built in the Athonite style, but combines Greek and Russian architectural elements. Characteristic feature Greek temples are characterized by the presence along the perimeter of the walls of peculiar niches with armrests and reclining seats. Greek chandelier decorated ostrich eggs. According to legend, ostriches hatching eggs must constantly watch them. And if the ostrich is distracted for just a moment, the egg will become infertile. Likewise, every Christian should continually pray and strengthen in faith.

After the service and morning meal, we spent a long time deciding whether to wait for the ferry to arrive at 11.30 or walk to the Daphne pier. It was 9 o’clock in the morning, and we, having said goodbye to the monastery and asking for the blessing of Archimandrite Evlogii, decided to set off on foot. The first half of the journey to the Xiropotamus monastery passed along a forest path. The crowns of the trees protected us from the July sun, which was beginning to get hot.

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But from Xiropotamus to Daphne it was necessary to go along a dusty road. Luckily for us, as soon as we stepped onto the road, a car appeared from above. A driver with Caucasian appearance stopped and offered to give us a ride. This way we saved time and, most importantly, energy for the upcoming climb to the top of Mount Athos.
Our ferry to the monastery of St. Anne left at 12.45 and we had enough time to explore Daphne up and down. The pier includes only a few buildings: customs, a ticket office with a waiting room, a small hotel, a post office and shopping mall with a cafe and a couple of shops. We chose places near customs, in the shade, and watched all the people arriving. At noon, the ferry from Ouranoupolis arrives here - the main means of communication with outside world. Pilgrims, monks, and cars with provisions and building materials arrive on it.
There were much fewer passengers on the St. Anna ferry than from Ouranoupolis. On the way to the skete we passed the monasteries of Simonopetra and Dionysiatus.

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A group of about 15 people came out to the pier of the monastery of St. Anna. And we all wandered along the endless stairs leading to the monastery. The road was strewn with waste products of mules, which are actively used to deliver goods to monasteries. In the Greek midday sun, this is certainly not an easy task! We stopped several times to rest and drink water from the springs. The monastery of St. Anne is located at an altitude of about 500 meters above sea level, and upon reaching it we were able to enjoy relaxing in a shady gazebo and traditional Athonite treats: a glass of raki, a glass cold water and sweet delight. This was what I needed to recuperate!
We agreed with the local archondarik about the upcoming overnight stay upon returning from the mountain, rested, washed in the shower, and after a couple of hours we hit the road! The monastic treat gave us strength, and we cheerfully climbed the initial stretch of the road. Gradually comfortable stairs ended and the real mountain trail began. A hermit monk lives at an altitude of approximately 700-800 meters. He himself tries not to show himself to the eyes of travelers, but next to his shelter there is a chapel and a place to rest. Here you can drink water from a container that is filled by a monk, carrying water from a source.
It was still quite hot, despite the fact that it was seven o'clock in the evening.

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It’s good that most of the trail goes through the forest. Having climbed another 200-300 meters, we discovered a memorial cross. Perhaps it means a height of 1000 meters above sea level.

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The views that opened up to us around each next turn aesthetically compensated for our fatigue.

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The next point in counting the meters of ascent is the fork. To the right is the road leading to the Great Lavra, and to the left - to the top of the Holy Mountain. This place is often used for overnight or parking. This can be seen from the abandoned fire pits and, sadly, from the mountains of garbage.
Then the trail gradually began to climb steeper and steeper. Tiredness made itself felt more and more. And suddenly on a stone along the path we saw a mark: 1430 meters! There were only about 70 meters left to Panagia, where we were going to spend the night! The last meters took the longest. And then in the distance we finally saw a stone structure.

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As we got closer, we realized that we wouldn’t be spending the night here alone!
People were walking near the house, collecting brushwood. Even in the Panteleimon Monastery, an experienced guide warned us that on the approach to Panagia we need to collect pine cones to light the fireplace. But, just closer to the place, we didn’t see a single cone. Apparently, everything was collected long ago before us! What was our joy when, having listened, we heard Russian speech!!! It turned out that a group of Russian pilgrims under the leadership of the priest arrived at Panagia shortly before us. They had already collected firewood, lit the fireplace, and even brewed tea in a large Russian samovar.
With great pleasure we drank tea and snacked on our modest supplies. We met. The guys were from Moscow. They planned to reach the summit by dawn, for which they had to rise at about three in the morning. They had flashlights with them.
After dinner we were invited to join them for prayer. Panagia is a fairly spacious building. At the entrance there is a hall with a fireplace, a well with clean water, a large table. To the left of the hall there is a bedroom with bunk beds. And right behind the hall there is a church! That's where we did it evening service with reading of the akathist Mother of God. Small room was illuminated only by a flicker church candles and lamps. The awareness of where we are and the almost tangible presence of God made this service unforgettable!
Coming outside after prayer, we saw myriads of stars in the sky. Constellations, Milky Way, falling meteorite... We have never seen such a sky!

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It’s a pity that we decided to spend the night indoors, where it was quite stuffy, and not outside.
In my sleep, I heard our neighbors get up and gather at three o’clock in the morning. We didn't have lanterns, so we had to wait until dawn. When we got up at five o'clock in the morning and left the room, in the darkness of the night we saw a string of their glowing lights. The coals were still smoldering in the hearth, and we lit a fireplace from the remaining brushwood. We made coffee, took a short break and began to get ready for the journey.
Suddenly, I felt a sharp pain in my left calf. Yes, such that he could barely walk, limping. Maybe it was the result of a long hike or a hard bed - I don’t know. But I clearly understood that with such pain I would not be able to climb to the top - after all, it was still 500 meters high, much less overcome the way back down. No matter how hard I tried to stretch and stretch my leg, the pain did not subside. After consulting, we decided to slowly go down. It was, of course, a great pity that we had to return without reaching our goal and at its very threshold. Apparently, my sins did not allow me to conquer the Holy Mountain!
And I began to sincerely pray to the Mother of God, asking for forgiveness and coming to terms with what happened. We began to get ready for the road. And now, almost having collected myself, I suddenly realize that the pain has subsided! I walked a little, I’m not limping, there’s no pain. A small miracle happened! Then we decided to go upstairs after all.

The climb from Panagia to the top of Mount Athos is the steepest. Panagia remained far below.

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The trail runs along open slopes. Even in summer, when the heat is thirty degrees below, a cold strong wind blows at the top. In addition, there were heavy clouds around and it could start to rain, making the mountain path slippery! Somewhere in the middle of the climb, we met our compatriots who were already descending from the mountain.
And now, we have finally reached the top of Mount Athos!

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The feelings that arise when you, having overcome significant difficulties, achieve a cherished goal, especially when this goal is a Holy place, are difficult to express in words! I certainly didn’t want to think about the bustle of life happening there, in the world.
At the top of the mountain there is a 3-meter worship cross.

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There's also construction going on there. new church Transfiguration of the Lord. The old white marble temple, built by Russian do-gooders at the end of the 19th century, stood for 124 years and was dismantled in 2010 to build a new reinforced concrete temple by order of the hierarchy of the Great Lavra, to which this territory belongs. The new temple has almost been built, and active landscaping of the surrounding area is underway. On par with builders hard work performed by monks too! We ourselves saw how one elderly gray-haired monk cheerfully stirred concrete with a shovel.

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After enjoying the stunning views, we took out the icons we bought at Panteleimon Monastery, lit candles and prayed in the temple. They say that icons that have been to the top of the Holy Mountain have special power.
Unfortunately, no matter how good it was in this sacred place, it was necessary to return back. Inexperienced travelers naively believe that going down a mountain is easier than going up. We thought so too. However, the tension in the back muscles of the legs during the descent is much greater, and by the end our legs were simply shaking from fatigue! Somewhere in the middle of the road we met two Americans, still quite vigorously climbing the mountain. They asked us if it was possible to go up and down the mountain in one day and where, if anything, we could stop for the night. Looking at them, we thought with a shudder how much they still have to overcome!
In the afternoon we returned to the monastery of St. Anne.

Athonite monk Father Jacob, the main choirmaster of the cathedral church, came to Riga to sing in the Dome Cathedral together with the choir of the Moscow Patriarchate, and brought us a blessing Athonite elders. “Saturday” was lucky enough to talk with him.

Monk Jacob is the chief protopsalt of the Karey Cathedral Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary of the Holy Mount Athos. He was born in the city of Thessaloniki. He studied Byzantine music since childhood and has a degree and diploma in this field. He was a singer in the “John of Damascus” choir. In 1993 he entered the Caracal monastery on Mount Athos. He taught Byzantine music to younger monks and organized a monastery choir. Since 1996, monk Jacob has lived in the capital of the Holy Mountain - Kareya, in a cell he restored. Today he serves as protopsalt (chief choirmaster) of the Cathedral Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary.

Words can't describe

On the streets Old Riga he could be seen very far away: a tall, slender Greek man in a black monastic robe, his brown eyes looking serious and attentive. And when he starts talking, you want to listen silently, even without understanding Greek. Father Jacob's voice is amazing.

This is not the first time that the Athonite monk Jacob has visited Latvia. In January, together with the chamber choir of the Moscow Patriarchate, he performed Christmas carols. And now, as then, music sounded in the Dome Cathedral, which can easily be described in one word - divine. In all senses.

We asked permission to photograph him. He agreed and waited patiently while the photographer set up the lights and equipment. But an amazing thing - dozens of frames turned out to be illuminated as if from the inside. And only two pictures finally came out. You see one of them. Probably the main thing about him is his eyes. And that inner light that cannot be compared with any lighting. Because he is from the soul.

Before asking questions, I remembered a long time ago to Greece: then my friends and I sailed on a boat around the Holy Mount Athos, along the majestic monasteries, the roofs and domes of which were drowned in greenery. What a pity, we thought, that we couldn’t see it up close: since ancient times, women have not been allowed to visit Mount Athos. And on the boat at that time there were recordings of the chants of the Athonite monastic choir.

And then at night in a small Greek town I sat on the hotel balcony, looked at the sea and thought that the Holy Mountain does not sleep around the clock - day and night people who have gone there from the world pray for the whole world. And for each of us. Many monks, they told us, live in asceticism and generally sleep for two or three hours, no more... At this time, someone again turned on the recordings of Athos chants. I still remember - the feeling was amazing.

Sorry for the long introduction, I just wanted to convey the mood with which we began our conversation with Father Jacob. Along with him, the music of Athos came to the people of Riga.

Special way of life

- Father Jacob, you said that you came to sing with the blessing of the Athonite elders...

Whenever one of the monks leaves somewhere, he coordinates his actions with both the monastery to which he spiritually belongs and with his confessor in order to make this trip.

- How often do you leave the monastery?

Not particularly often. The last times were associated with concerts in Riga, Moscow and St. Petersburg.

- How long have you lived on Athos?

20 years. People often ask me how I got there. This is not so easy to explain in a nutshell, because the person himself has difficulty understanding such serious things. Naturally, the Lord helps, but the human will also cooperates.

- Are there really monks on Mount Athos who came there at the age of 12?

This used to happen, 40-50 years ago, often. Now these monks are 60-70 years old... This has not happened for the last 30 years. It is prohibited and there is no such tradition. According to the law, a person who enters a monastery must be 18 years old. Usually people aged 20-30 come. Previously, after World War II, economic conditions were difficult, and relatives brought small children to Athos to survive. And then they liked it there, and they stayed on Athos forever.

- What do you need to stay?

Naturally there is probation in one or two years. And then the abbot and confessors of the monastery judge whether he can stay and continue his spiritual achievement during this period of time, whether he can live this way of life...

Treasures of Athos

- The musical tradition of Athos is more than a thousand years old. It is connected with Byzantine traditions...

Byzantine music is something special. And Athos is a special place for the Byzantine musical tradition. The Byzantine singing style has been cultivated continuously for thousands of years. As for me, it is a blessing for me that throughout my entire time on Holy Athos I was involved in this tradition. And now I sing in the main temple of the capital of Athos - Protata. And thus I continue this musical tradition and make my contribution to it.

The Athos monasteries contain real treasures: relics, ancient manuscripts, books... Do you have the opportunity to read them?

In addition to the spiritual, the Holy Mountain also has a cultural mission. Athos stores a huge number of manuscripts, there are also records that appeared in last years. And when we talk about treasures that are over 800 years old, these are, of course, many ancient icons, relics, and monks are superior to museum curators in their storage.

One day I went to the Byzantine Museum in Thessaloniki, which had recently opened. And there I felt great pride in the Holy Mountain, because what I saw in Thessaloniki cannot be compared with what I saw on Athos - Athos, of course, surpasses any museum. And we are talking about Thessaloniki - the Byzantine city.

Pilgrims of the Holy Mountain

- How is your day on Mount Athos?

I have been living on Mount Athos for 20 years. For 16 years he lived in one of the 20 monasteries - this is the Karakala Monastery - and created a choir there, with which we performed at various celebrations. Of course, other Athonite fathers also helped me. For the last four years I have been living in a cell - it’s like a monastery, and I’m there alone now. I fulfill my obedience - I sing in the temple of Protata, where the council of the Holy Mountain is located.

A monk has a lot of different things to do. Spiritual things are of primary importance. Daily services last much longer than in the world. There are classes manual labor. Everyone does what is assigned to them. In a monastery this is usually obedience, but in a monastery it is various works around the house. I also study music for several hours every day.

- A lot of pilgrims come to Athos. How are they greeted there?

There is a monastic obedience - to receive pilgrims, and there is a hotel obedience. There is a special monk who meets pilgrims, treats them, and gives them a room if they want to stay. Pilgrims can go everywhere, enter any monastery.

This is exactly what is beautiful on Athos, and this distinguishes it from other places: when you come to a temple, it’s not like in a museum, where you see dead space - on Athos, in the monasteries, everyone who enters sees, as it were, a living museum with a huge number of priceless exhibits, but at the same time there is life everywhere. Pilgrims see everything - the services, the obedience of the monks: how they pray, walk, communicate. It makes an impression on people.

- They don't bother the monks?

Still, everything is not so uncontrollable, the monks have places where they can retire, there are hours when they are free. It is considered a good deed, love for one's neighbor on the part of the monks - to help a pilgrim. Hospitality is a virtue, and on Athos it has a special value.

- Were there cases when pilgrims stayed?

Of course, there were people who came on pilgrimage and then became monks. But coming and staying right away is rare. Now everything is stricter. The abbot and confessor need to be more attentive, and the person himself needs to think very seriously before joining the brethren, monastery, or monastery.

- Are there common holidays when all 20 monasteries unite?

Each monastery has its own patronal feast day. There is a tradition for monks from all monasteries to gather together and pray on these patronal holidays. In addition to monasteries, there are also monasteries and cells, and there is also such a tradition there. The biggest patronal feasts take place in the Great Lavra, in the Iveron and Vatopedi monasteries. These are the largest monasteries, and a lot of people gather in them.

Easter on Athos

Your Riga speech before Holy Week and on the eve of Great Easter - was this specifically planned for the timing, such spiritual reinforcement?

We are holding this concert of sacred music together with Anatoly Grindenko and the Moscow choir, which he leads. We chose the passion of the Lord as our theme. And this coincided with preparations for Easter, which we will soon celebrate. Therefore, chants are associated with events Holy Week. We wanted to help those who wish to prepare for these days.

- How is Easter going on Athos?

Celebrating Easter, these holy days, on Mount Athos is a completely unique experience. Only men can survive this, since women are not allowed to come to Athos. Pilgrims go home enchanted and delighted, and this stays with them for the rest of their lives. During Easter, services last a very long time, but people who come (although in the world, perhaps, do not go to services) are present until last minute and don’t get tired at all. Especially those who manage to stay on Easter day itself. This is something special, it cannot be described in words, but must be experienced.

It was, is and will be

In the temple where you sing, the miraculous icon of the Mother of God “It is Worthy to Eat” is kept... The Most Holy Theotokos is considered the patroness of Athos...

Athos is considered the earthly destiny of the Mother of God. When Saint Peter of Athos first came here, according to legend, the Mother of God accompanied him and promised that whoever came to live in this place, she would provide everything necessary in this and future life, if he devotes himself to spiritual salvation. All of us, Svyatogorsk residents, live there, so we have special love and reverence for the Blessed Virgin. A bunch of miraculous icons located on Mount Athos, in almost all monasteries. This is our patroness, representative.

According to legend, a hundred years ago there was an apparition of the Mother of God on Mount Athos; memories of this event have been preserved. Have there been phenomena in our time?

Of course, there may be phenomena, but how do we know about this? If I saw the Mother of God, I would not tell anyone. What is important is not so much its appearance in person, what is important is what we feel there. We feel it as a guide in our life. And visual phenomena are what happen in special situations with certain people, when there is a reason for this. I don't like to prove that it exists. I am absolutely convinced that the apparitions of the Most Holy Theotokos happened, that they are happening now and will happen in the future.

It is important that we feel in our soul the confidence that Our Lady gives, the daily confirmation of Her promises, and this is confirmed every day in our lives. And I think it's a continuous miracle, a daily miracle. Any monk on Mount Athos will say the same. Her presence is clear and precise, undeniable.

Pilgrims who come to Athos say that when they get off the ship and step on this land, they feel something special. But we cannot explain what exactly. And I tell them: “You feel the grace of the Mother of God that is present in this place.”

- It is believed that Mount Athos is one of the few places on Earth that, like a pillar of light, connects the earth with the sky...

The truth is that this place is filled with prayers 24 hours a day - prayer does not stop there.

- The world is alive while you pray for us?

The world is alive because God loves us and is constantly trying to find ways to have mercy on us. And if we pray for you, this does not mean that you are obliged to our prayers. But the Lord finds a reason in every person to help him.

- Father Jacob, please tell us a few wishes for our readers. On the eve of Easter this is very important.

Our days are difficult, our times are difficult, crises are constantly happening all over the world, so people have lost their bearings. Too much different information comes with different sides. I wish you as much as possible more people tried it in the world Orthodox tradition and began to live according to it. Live according to the teachings of the church. And I believe that then there will be some kind of change in life, a very significant one. I think that's the main thing these days - finding your way.

I ask and wish everyone to try this path. And I think that after some time the soul itself will convince them that this is the right path...

October 5th, 2016

High on Mount Athos, people disappear, and local legends call them the “Nine Invisibles” - nine monks who were delighted by angels. And at the same time, the angels release other monks to earth in order to take new ones in their place. And this group of nine monks secretly rules Athos.

A Monk Suddenly Appearing

One day I suddenly saw a monk emerging from the sea, suddenly appearing out of the water! He appeared out of nowhere and, appearing on the surface of the sea, walked through the water towards the shore. He climbed the wall, crossed the coastal road and walked along the steep path that leads from the shore to the monastery.

He was walking towards churchyard where I was. When I saw him coming out of the water, I thought I was imagining it. But then I assumed that there are always a lot of monks there who work in the wood factory, who work in the fields, who fish, etc. And I thought that maybe he came out of the boat, which I did not have time to notice , and which dragged itself behind the wall so that it was out of my field of vision.

The monk emerges from the sea and walks along the steep path that leads to the monastery and passes by the place in the courtyard where I am. He tells me:

“Blessings to you, brother John,” and shakes hands, greeting me. Naturally, I extended my hand, completely confused, since he knew my name. He also knew about the presence of my son Talo in the monastery, and briefly mentioned him in the conversation. Before I had time to recover from the initial shock, the monk told me: “What you were looking for, brother is there...” - and pointed me to a valuable sign in which I could guess the symbol of what I was looking for. Before I could talk to him in more detail, he turns and goes down, enters the sea again and disappears!

He entered the water and disappeared from my sight... Now I am at a loss, because it was a shock to me that someone came and told me where what I was looking for was. This man looked like the monk I had previously met in the monastery of St. Dionysius on Olympus! He looked like him, and I am still sure that it was him.

Saint Paisios

Many of you, while on Mount Athos, will hear this story about Elder Paisius. Anyone who visited his house next to Karies, which is always open, upon entering, saw food on the fire and understood that the old man was somewhere nearby and would soon return. People sat and waited for a long time, until they began to worry and look for the elder nearby, but in vain. However, as soon as they returned to the house, they saw the old man sitting in a chair and laughing. A visitor could sit for about an hour in a small room and not notice Elder Paisius, who was sitting directly opposite him, but in a completely incomprehensible way remained invisible (“And who knows who you were waiting for here, but you didn’t notice me, the unworthy one,” the elder said).

Elder and young monk

One story tells about a young monk who went to live in the cell of a certain elder in order to be “in obedience” to him. Trying to learn from the elder, who was very wise and humble, he lived for quite some time next to him. One day the old man disappeared. The student looked for him in vain and waited in vain for him to appear. The elder disappeared inexplicably and suddenly, taking nothing with him, he left, leaving absolutely no trace. The disciple was worried that maybe something had happened, for example, maybe the elder fell from some cliff or drowned in the sea. Many monks searched for him, but found him neither alive nor dead. The disciple began to live alone in that cell. Two years passed, and one day the elder appeared again before his disciple in the courtyard of the cell. “Elder, are you alive?!” - the amazed student asked him. The elder replied: “We have been living together for two years, but you think that you live alone.”

Holy Hand

A special place among the holy relics that are located in the Holy Monastery of Simon Peter is occupied by the right hand of the Holy Myrrh-Bearer and Mary Equal to the Apostles Magdalene. This holy hand has been preserved incorrupt, with skin and tendons, and is fragrant with a heavenly aroma. Moreover, all who apply themselves to it with piety and faith confirm that the hand is warm. In the monastery of Simon Peter on Mount Athos, Saint Mary still works many miracles, which is why she is considered the second abbess among the monks.

Miracle of extinguishing fire

In 1945, a fire suddenly broke out in the forest near the Iveron monastery. A strong wind blew and after a few hours the fire reached the ridge where the monasteries of Iveron, Philotheus and Xiropotamus touch the forest. Everyone was sure that the forest would die. The brothers of our monastery were warned in time and ran to the scene of the fire. Then the brothers hieromonks Neophytos and Panteleimon, moved by great piety, took with them the relics of Saint Mary. No one could get close to the fire, because everyone was afraid of being surrounded by fierce fire. But, O Thy wonders, Lord! As soon as the brothers with the holy relics approached the place of the fire, the fire immediately cut off their way back. This continued until the priests served a prayer service with the canon of St. Mary Magdalene. To the great surprise of all the gathered fathers, after the end of the prayer service the fire suddenly went out.

Bones that smell

One day a certain man decided to visit the holy Mount Athos. It is to visit, not to make a pilgrimage! He intended to spend six days on Athos, but having come into contact with the monastic life of the Svyatogorsk monks, he changed his mind and no longer saw the possibility of returning to that vain world, which he had previously so praised.

He arrived at the holy monastery of Stavronikita, which was to be his last visit. Moreover, if initially he thought to spend six days on Mount Athos, now he was thinking about three days. Of course, he mocked his group of pilgrims because, as he said, these people saw things differently from him. Therefore, he was already counting the hours until he went out into the world, so that he could finally be free.

At the entrance to the monastery they were met by a kind old man with Turkish delight and brandy. He showed the visiting pilgrims to their rooms and announced the schedule of services. It was 12 o'clock in the afternoon, and at 4 o'clock in the evening it began evening service. The previous day our friend had attended an all-night vigil, which lasted 12 hours. He immediately fell asleep and woke up only after hearing the sound of the bell, which meant exactly 4 o'clock in the evening and called everyone present to the evening service. He woke up and literally, stumbling, went to the cathedral church of the monastery, where he attended the evening service only physically. I say physically, because spiritually he was only thinking about how quickly he could return to the activity from which the damned beating had torn him away. So he spoke to himself.

Finally, the evening service ended, but the people did not leave, expecting to venerate the holy relics that were in the monastery. He also went among the people. At this time, he spoke only about rest, since in other monasteries that he visited, he did nothing else except kiss dead bones that had no pulse, no warmth and did not exude myrrh, which the Svyatogorsk people talked so much about fathers.

So, he venerated the relics and was about to leave, despite the fact that the rest of the people were still in the temple, when the priest who was there said in an almost breaking voice, as loud as he could: “My children, I ask you, in the sweetest name of Jesus, tell me, which of you has not smelled the wonderful aroma from the holy relics that they emit?” This man stopped at the entrance in surprise; he had never heard anything like this in any other monastery. Immediately he goes to the priest and says in a bold tone: “I am.” Then suddenly a dozen more of the same appeared. The venerable priest goes straight to the holy relics and in a touching voice begins to sing the troparion to Saint Demetrius the myrrh-streaming one. His face, red as if from chemotherapy, begins to glow so intensely that by the end it was impossible to look at him. My friend was frightened by what he saw, realizing that at that moment the holy relics began to smell so strongly and pleasantly that it was impossible to tear himself away. A little later, the priest’s face stopped shining, but the wonderful fragrance from the bones was so strong that it went beyond the temple, stretched throughout the entire monastery and accompanied the visitors all the way to the refectory and to their rooms. All those who had doubted it before cried like little children and said that because of their sins they could not smell the fragrance from the very beginning. At night no one could sleep. The next day, the pilgrims went to the Iveron monastery. The smell followed them halfway up the road. My friend changed his mind again and wanted to stay on Mount Athos and complete the pilgrimage there (he no longer called it a journey or an excursion). When he returned home, his wife took his clothes to wash. Then she confirmed that the clothes still smelled of that sweet divine fragrance.

This event happened in the Athos monastery of Stavronikita on September 5, 1997. This uncle is my friend, my maternal cousin, and he tells this story today at the Lenten table. The change in his and his wife's religious life happened quickly. And that priest was the elderly Father Nektary, who lived to last days, according to doctors. The last time my uncle visited him was on Mount Athos several months ago, finding the old man with a cold in his bed. Father Nektariy found out that he had cancer, which affected his entire body. Father Nektary is a dentist and maintains a medical office on Mount Athos, offering his services to everyone, as far as his health allows.

Hurricane

ABOUT next case Many elders of the holy Mount Athos say: one day several monks went fishing in the open sea, by boat. At this time a storm broke out! And one of these monks disappeared. This monk had previously had an experience with the devil (due to one unrepentant disobedience), who promised him: “I will come again to take you away forever.”

Transfer from Greek language Daniil Soloshenko

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... In this world’s only Orthodox monastic republic, it’s as if time has stood still. Geographically Holy Mount Athosis located in the eastern part of the Greek peninsula of Halkidiki, at an altitude of 2033 meters above sea level. But height for its inhabitants is not so much a physical concept as a spiritual one. For them it means rising above a sinful life. And the distances themselves here are measured in prayers, not in meters.

An earthly woman has not set foot on the territory of Athos for one and a half thousand years, and all monks honor only the Heavenly Mother - the Virgin Mary. Athos is considered her earthly destiny. Miracles happen here at every step, and the words of prayer flow as easily as anywhere else in the world. That is why there is always a sea of ​​pilgrims here. Most of them come to Athos during fasting times. On the Holy Mountain you feel that it is not you who choose the road, but it you.

Prayer for the whole world - around the clock

... According to church tradition, about two thousand years ago Apollo was worshiped on Mount Athos. In 44 AD, shortly after the Ascension of the Savior, a storm drove a ship here where the Blessed Virgin was. The ship on which the Mother of God, together with the apostles, was heading to Cyprus, landed on the shore of Mount Athos due to bad weather. The Mother of God descended to the land of the peninsula and blessed it. The golden idol of Apollo could not withstand the grace-filled presence of the Blessed Virgin; as she approached, it groaned and fell into the sea. Struck by what he saw, influenced unusual strength After the preaching of Christ, the entire population of the island adopted Christianity.

The first ascetics - monks came here in the 7th century. Since then, women have been prohibited from appearing on the island (even pack animals here are only male). According to legend, this was the command of the Mother of God herself, who took Athos under her protection. She appeared to the monks from time to time and helped them in the construction of monasteries. Since then, the Blessed Virgin has been considered the abbess of the Holy Mountain. Her invisible presence is felt everywhere here. As evidence of this, a cloud invariably stands above the top of Athos. This is truly a miracle! Imagine, all the clouds are moving, but it stands still. This cloud can be larger, smaller, lighter, darker, almost black, but it is always over Athos! Even seeing him once is a blessing from God.

Now Athos is an independent monastic republic with a local government and special laws. On its territory there are 20 monasteries and more than a dozen monasteries. Some monks live in separate cells or in hard-to-reach caves. On Athos they live according to Byzantine time. New era here it comes at sunset. At two o'clock in the morning, when the whole bustling world is asleep, the first morning service. In total, up to three hundred liturgies are celebrated on the island at the same time.

From the monastery well, which is only 20 meters from the sea, pilgrims drink delicious spring water. In addition, they dug this deep well into the rock. Pilgrims are perplexed as to how it was possible to determine that there was a spring flowing here. Local monks answer: they prayed and asked God to show a place where there was fresh water. And the Lord heard their prayers.

There are more miracles here than in the world

... Gifts of the Magi to the Infant Jesus, preserved to this day, 700 year old vine, one berry of which heals infertility, a temple built in one day. There is hardly any place in the world where you can see so many wonders and sacred relics. In every Athonite monastery there are relics of saints and miraculous icons.

Monastery with a thousand-year history of Vatopedi- one of those most visited by pilgrims. Stored here: part Life-giving Cross of the Lord, the honorable Belt of the Most Holy Theotokos, particles of the relics of 14 saints and great martyrs, among them Gregory the Theologian, John Chrysostom, Panteleimon, Demetrius of Thessalonica.

Among the Mother of God icons of the monastery, eight are considered miraculous, the most famous of them are “Consolation and Consolation” and “Pantanassa”, or “The Tsaritsa of All”. The praying churches are always crowded. There is a special grace here. The monks claim that the Blessed Virgin herself helps everyone who with faith asks her for help in illnesses of body and soul. As evidence of this, there are numerous jewels with which believers honor miraculous images in gratitude.

With prayer - to the kitchen, to the garden and to the workshop

...Prayer and fasting, fasting and prayer. This is how months, years, decades pass on Mount Athos. The food in the monasteries is simple - vegetables, fruits, cereals. Fish dishes in the monastery kitchen are prepared only on major holidays. The monks bake their own bread according to ancient recipes. In Vatopeda, even the process of preparing it is a sacred rite. On the Feast of the Exaltation of the Life-Giving Cross and on one of the days of the Week of the Worship of the Cross in Lent Before service, flour is placed in a small bowl, salt is sprinkled in and water is added. By the end of the liturgy, the dough rises on its own, without yeast. This miracle dough is stored for a whole year; a small piece of it is added every time bread is baked. And the dough always rises on its own, without yeast.

Shelter and feed all travelers Regardless of their religion, monks consider it an honorable duty. That is why the Vatopedi refectory, for example, can accommodate up to five thousand people.

- They fed us lean food once a day., - recalls one of the pilgrims. - You could take an apple, tangerine or orange with you. However, oddly enough, we had enough strength to travel around Mount Athos for days on end with such products. They sat down at the table together and stood up together. Upon leaving, the governor blessed everyone. What was especially striking was that after each meal the monks-cooks humbly bowed before us in a low bow. So, just in case, they asked for forgiveness if someone did not like their dishes. Fifty cats were usually waiting for the end of the meal under the walls of the monastery dining room. Each time one of the monks brought them two buckets of leftover lunch.

Monks on Mount Athos work not only in the kitchen. Everyone has their own obedience. Some take care of vegetables in the beds, others take care of orchards and vineyards. There are also those who knit crosses for sale, make lamps, and paint icons.

Work, prayer and fasting - the recipe for longevity of Athonite monks. They usually live to a ripe old age. And until the end of their days they maintain zeal in prayer and maintain good spirits. A few of them achieve the highest perfection in the knowledge of God. The Mother of God endows such people with the gift of providence.

It’s not the mouth that speaks here, but the heart.

... Athos is something deep, personal, and such feelings are difficult to convey in words.. This is what those lucky people who have managed to visit the Holy Mountain at least once say. All pilgrims unanimously claim that they return home as changed people, and each has their own mission to visit the shrine. Athos is truly a holy place where nothing distracts you from the main thing. Here the tears are only from joy, and the soul sings.

* My decision was final, and I secretly went to Athos. Arrived safely. Traveling and staying in various monasteries and hermitages, I carefully studied their way of life. And, in the end, having received a sufficient amount of the necessary information, I decided to settle in the monastery of St. Gregory.

Before entering the monastery, I, tired, went to spend the night in a steep and difficult terrain, a little higher than Giftaria, where shade could be found. But my attempts to sleep were in vain. Sleep did not come. Thoughts and thoughts replaced each other and disturbed me. Satan's temptations made every effort to hinder me. Finally, exhausted by mental struggle, I thought that a dream was coming to me. And what did I see? Standing above me was an elderly monk of a venerable, majestic, even biblical appearance, with a knee-length beard and soft eyes. He said to me: “Why are you sitting here outside, my child, tormented by thoughts and reflections? Get up and go to the monastery.” Hearing this order, I immediately stood up, intending to ask the monk to accompany me. But where is the old man? He disappeared!

This incident shocked me. I began to wonder who this mysterious old man could be, who at such a venerable age was able to climb into such wild places where I could hardly go. With these thoughts (my past demonic thoughts had dissipated like smoke), I ran to the monastery, went there and immediately went to the venerable Kafigumen, told him about my desire and intention, mentioning the recent meeting with the venerable elder.

Then the kafigumen, with undisguised tenderness, led me to the icon and asked: “Did this elder appear to you?” “Yes, it was him!” – I answered in amazement. It turned out to be Elder Joachim, the new ktitor of the monastery with an amazingly long beard, which he received miraculously, since he was beardless by nature.

* When, several months later, my tonsure took place, I was very tired and anxious, and I wanted to get some sleep. But before I could fall asleep, someone opened the door of my cell in a completely unusual way, omitting the traditional “Through the prayers of our holy fathers...” Thoughts suddenly overwhelmed me, and I felt a terrible, unbearable stench. And then I saw standing above me uninvited guest. What a frightening and terrifying sight it was! Satan himself stood before me. Like a monster, horned, with fiery breath and fiery eyes, furry, with long claws. He looked at me with a sinister and angry look and laughed sarcastically: “Hey! Why did you come here too? Now I’ll show you!” And immediately he extended his hand to me and grabbed me, emitting a terrible howl: “Ahh!” But then by chance he touched the honorable cross hanging on my chest. He immediately disappeared, leaving behind an unbearable stench.

* One day a flu epidemic hit the monastery. The disease has affected the youngest and strongest, some slightly, others seriously. I got over it quickly. And when the cook fell ill, I was tasked with replacing him. Not knowing how to cook at all, I took up this obedience under the guidance of the cook, Father Hypatius. Fortunately, I also had an experienced assistant cook with me, a very meek and simple novice, like a lamb.

One day I sent him to the garden to collect vegetables for cooking. But after a short time, almost immediately, he came running, breathing heavily, looking frightened and without vegetables. When I asked him what had happened, he replied that there was a huge and scary snake lying on the path leading into the garden. And he, frightened, ran back, sweating and out of breath.

However, his action contradicted the canon of “blind obedience.” I told the elder about this. The elder talked with the novice, encouraged him, gave him his blessing and ordered him to fulfill his obedience without hesitation or fear. Filled with courage, he ran into the garden, collected vegetables and returned joyful. When I asked what was wrong, he explained that the snake was still lying there, but it was dead.

* Shortly before joining the army, I fell ill with acute sciatica. The pain was periodic, but unbearable. When she overtook me, I could not stand on my feet and fell to the ground, wherever I was. No doctors or medicines, no warm baths, nor the army could heal me. It was a constant and painful condition.

One day wheat was brought into our harbor, and we all, as usual, had to unload it. And when the unloading began, I suddenly had a painful attack. I fell to the ground, cramped and groaning in pain. Two or three fathers and one venerable, virtuous old man came running. Arseny, Artemy... I don’t remember his name. They asked me what was the matter. And when I told them about my illness, everyone around me found out about it and gossip began. Many sympathized with me, others doubted the veracity of my words, and still others did not believe me at all. Some people thought I said this to get rid of work. Others exaggeratedly considered me “the scoundrel from Piraeus.”

I endured it all. And only my elder consoled me: “Don’t cry, my boy. Don't despair. I believe you. And I can convince other fathers of your sincerity. But I will give you one piece of advice and ask you to listen to me. We have our own doctor here: St. Anastasia of Rome. Her relics are in the chapel. From the very evening, stay awake and pray to her with all your heart and with tears. And when the liturgy ends in the morning, anoint the place that hurts with oil from her lamp, tearfully asking the saint to heal you. After that, come and see me.”

I did exactly what I was told. And, having anointed himself with oil, lo and behold! – I suddenly began to move freely, without the slightest hint of pain.

Sixty years have passed since that day. The disease never returned to me.

* In the city of Verria in Macedonia there is a monastery of Gregoriatus. Once or twice a year, every time in the summer, we go there by sea on a small monastery ship.

One day I went to the farmstead with my two brothers. But an unusual calm reigned between Kassandra and Pelion, although we rowed diligently. And this, I would say, irritating calmness made me think that there was trouble. It was undisguised excitement for no apparent reason, something like a premonition. And although the brothers asked me to stop rowing for a while and rest, I ordered them to work faster with the oars, as if something was warning me of impending danger. We had to get to the coast between Pelion and Olympus as quickly as possible. The light sea breeze helped us a lot: we moored to the shore, went down and tied the ship. Meanwhile, a small cloud on Pelion became larger and blacker, foreshadowing terrible bad weather. And what horror followed! A storm of rare force broke out, a storm, a squall, as they say.

When we arrived, all the residents of the compound ran out to meet us, amazed and bewildered. They looked at us, crossed themselves and assured us that Saint Nicholas had saved us.

We stayed there for several days, after which, having equipped ourselves and collected supplies, we sailed back. And what a gloomy sight awaited us along the way! Wherever we sailed, we met everywhere castaways ships. All ships anchored in the affected ports from Liwa to Gharbi were driven ashore or sunk. The entire southwestern part of Kassandra, Siphonia and Athos were affected by this storm.

And when we got to the monastery, an even sadder sight awaited us: a ship from Litochoro, loaded with wood, was sunk. Here our excitement reached its peak.

Skipping arguments, I want to draw attention only to my causeless anxiety that I experienced along the way. Was this not an obvious and undeniable intervention of a saint?

* Every year on December 6, our monastery celebrates the feast day of St. Nicholas, stocking up on fish from Paliouri in Kassandra, where fishermen constantly fish.

A few days before the holiday, the monastery ship was sent there to pick up the fish. The helmsman was an experienced monk, pious and simple, accustomed to the sea even when he lived in the world.

But before he returned, a strong south-westerly wind blew and significantly delayed his departure. Time passed, the holiday was approaching, and the wind was getting stronger. The monk was worried: “Will the holiday really begin without fish?” And this, in his opinion, was unthinkable. And he decided to sail in stormy weather. Other fishermen tried in vain to convince him to abandon this crazy idea. But the monk was unshakable.

He sailed away, crossing himself, placing the icon of St. Nicholas on the helm and saying: “Saint Nicholas, you see what the weather is like now. Order that the holiday in your honor does not begin without fish. Let's go!”

And the saint, indeed, “ordained” just that. When the monk came close to the monastery, the fathers noticed him from afar and went ashore. The ship soared through the waves like a seagull. The fathers took with them the icon of St. Nicholas and began to pray that the ship could dock without difficulty. However, under such conditions this was completely impossible.

But not for St. Nicholas. Huge wave she picked up the ship and, lifting it high, lowered it straight onto the pier, to the place where it stood, after which she peacefully walked away, having fulfilled her duty. This event was solemnly celebrated. The faith of this pious monk and the help of the saint are amazing.

* A terrible fire struck the monastery forests in the summer. The wind was blowing and the flames spread quickly. Soon it was to destroy all chestnuts, the main source of monastic income. A terrible sight. I was an eyewitness to it and heard forest snakes that hissed as they burned.

When news of the fire reached the monastery, the fathers and the elder carried out the holy relics. And then one of the clouds hung over the forest, and such a heavy downpour began that the terrible fire was instantly extinguished.