Air conditioner installation procedure. How to install a split system yourself. What you need to know about installing a split system. Operating principle of air conditioner, split system
Compared to other air conditioning devices, the split system has a more complex two-block design. This system consists of an external compressor-condenser module and an internal evaporator module with a corresponding number of communications through which freon and electricity are supplied and condensate is discharged. This scheme complicates installation, but does not exclude self-installation. To install such an air conditioner yourself, just read the instructions, make up for the lack of knowledge and experience through Internet resources, and consult with specialists.
Installation features depend on the design of the indoor module, which can be wall-mounted or floor-mounted. To save space, small apartments usually use a wall-mounted air conditioner. This split is somewhat more difficult to install due to the need for durable wall mounting. But regardless of the details, the work is carried out in the following sequence:
- installation of separate wiring;
- installation of an external condenser unit;
- evaporator mounting ( indoor unit);
- connection of communications with vacuum;
- test activation.
Tools
To install the split yourself you will need a tool. It is recommended to include in the set:
- a drill with a hammer drill and a corresponding set of drills that is capable of breaking through a solid concrete wall;
- pipe cutter for neatly cutting pipes without the threat of clogging with copper shavings;
- a kit for flaring the edges of tubes, which will ensure the tightness of the connections;
- an example that can be used to strip the ends of connections;
- a pump, possibly a bicycle pump, to assess the tightness;
- vacuum cleaner, to remove moisture from the system by vacuuming;
- indicator screwdriver and tester for wiring;
- pressure gauge for pressure control.
How to choose a place
Before installing split system modules, it is necessary to correctly determine their location. For the external unit, the space should be:
- protect the device from direct sun rays and exposure to dust;
- guarantee the stability of the structure;
- provide free space, sufficient for normal operation devices.
Here such a situation is excluded, and the necessary protection of the unit is provided by the visor. An additional advantage is ease of maintenance. When choosing a location for the compressor you need to:
- provide protection from sun or heating;
- eliminate the threat of ignition of various vapors and gas leaks;
- provide the required free space and distance from the floor around the perimeter of the block as required by the instructions;
- prevent interference from constantly operating electrical appliances (distance of at least a meter);
- guarantee the strength of the wall, preventing the structure from collapsing.
Installation of separate wiring
A split system, even in its most low-power version, requires at least 1.5 kW. Such power requires a separate line, unloaded by other consumers, especially in houses earlier than 1990.
It requires:
- two-core wire with a cross-section of 1.5 to 2 mm, always copper;
- 16A circuit breaker.
If you plan to hide the wiring in a groove, then you should take care of this during the renovation so as not to spoil the expensive interior of the renovated apartment. When the idea to install a split came after a renovation, the solution may be to install additional wiring in the box. In any case, this will allow:
- avoid overloads;
- prevent device failure;
- eliminate the possibility of fire as a result of a short circuit.
Installation of an external condenser unit
The complexity of this stage depends on the location where you decide to place the air conditioner. Three options can be used:
- on the open balcony;
- on the loggia;
- on the wall.
On the balcony, it is enough to install short brackets and place the module on them. The protection function will be performed by a standard balcony canopy.
When choosing a loggia, you can limit yourself to the same brackets, but you should remember closed space does not provide the necessary air circulation, which will damage the air conditioner.
Open doors will help avoid this, which reduces the value of the loggia especially in winter time. It is impossible to mount the module on the wall without reinforced brackets, which must confidently support a weight several times greater than the mass of the unit itself. To attach them, it is better to use long anchors with a diameter of 20 mm.
Mounting the evaporator and installing communications
Before installing it, you need to mark the mounting locations. Check them horizontally and vertically using a level. After this, the work is performed in the following order:
- Holes are drilled according to the markings and anchors are inserted.
- The mounting plate is secured with screws;
- In accordance with the position of the block, a hole is punched for communications (50 - 80 mm) with a slight slope outward for drainage.
- A waterproofing cup with a tube is installed in the holes.
- a check is made to ensure that the wire is connected correctly to the terminals in accordance with the diagram.
- Tubes with thermal insulation made of flex and drainage are connected to the corresponding pipes.
- If it is necessary to lengthen the edges of the tubes with the nuts on, they are first flared.
- A compact bundle (route) is formed from tubes, drainage and wires using electrical tape, which is passed through the hole to the outside.
- The indoor unit is hung on mounting plate.
After completing the above work, you can install external unit onto the previously fixed brackets and bring the route to it. Excessive force should be avoided when bending the tubes to avoid deformation and wrinkles (the permissible bending radius is at least 100 mm).
If the air conditioner hangs over the sidewalk, then it is necessary to take care of alternative options for discharging condensate indoors.
Sealing and vacuuming
It is impossible to install a split correctly without sealing and vacuuming the communications. Sealing of connections is carried out using a soap solution and a conventional bicycle pump. The solution is applied to the connections and the tubes are pumped using a pump. When bubbles appear, carefully tighten the nuts by 1/8. The procedure is performed until the bubbling stops.
- Then vacuuming is performed, which removes air, dust and remaining moisture. For this:
- open several running ports; connect Vacuum pump
- through the service port;
- turn it on and wait for a pressure of 10 mmHg; close the lever;
- low pressure
turn off the pump, return plugs to all open ports.
Testing Before checking, fill the split with freon or refrigerant, depending on the requirements of the instructions, to the specified pressure. Testing is activated using a circuit breaker. At correct execution
- After installing the air conditioner, it will automatically enter test mode. Its result should be:
- normal flow of cold air;
- correct position of the blinds;
condensate drainage through drainage.
If all the signs are present, the split can be used every day. Otherwise, you will need to contact specialists. In this case, the warranty for the air conditioner will be lost.
So it is still not recommended to install such an air conditioner yourself. It’s better to immediately weigh your strengths and think about inviting a specialist.
The microclimate in the house is not just convenient, but also good for your health - you can maintain different temperatures. But installing a split system with your own hands is of interest to many - it is cheaper to do the installation yourself than to invite specialists, although this is not always correct. First of all, specialists will do the installation according to the instructions, but if you are confident, you can do it yourself.
What is a split system
Split system before installation
First, let's define what a split system is so as not to get confused in the definitions - for some reason it is distinguished from a regular air conditioner, and rightly so. There are several types of SLE:
- On the wall 1.5-9.0 kW.
- On the floor 4.0-13.0 kW.
- For the ceiling 4.0-13.0 kW.
- With channels 5.0-18.0 kW.
- Cassette systems 5.0-14.0 kW.
How it works
The SCV consists of two parts - a compressor, which is usually placed outdoors under a window, and an indoor unit that supplies cold air into the room. The compressor contains freon, which cools this air - this air comes from the street (supply system). In addition to cooling, the indoor unit contains a solenoid that can also blow hot air.
Outdoor unit
The outdoor unit is mounted on brackets
The outdoor unit is located on open space- house facade, open balcony, roof. IN office buildings outdoor unit can be attached to flight of stairs, in the lobby or in the corridor. These two blocks are connected to each other by a freon pipe, as well as a condensate drain pipe. There is also a compressor, a four-way valve, a receiver, a fan and a winter collector control system, which is driven by a capacitor electric motor. The four-way valve is connected from the indoor unit via power cable, coming from the block in the apartment. The outdoor unit also has a compressor that eliminates noise in the room. The indoor unit is slightly noisy - 24-25 dB and this bothers some people.
Block in the apartment
Block in an apartment, fixed to the wall
The indoor unit can be located in any part of the room - ceiling, walls, floor (this depends on the type of SCR). The system is controlled remotely (remote control is required). Modern air conditioners are equipped with a filter to clean the air from smoke and/or dust. Heating and cooling of the room varies in the range from 10 to 30⁰C. The remote control display contains information that can be used to adjust the system to the desired mode - this is the air temperature, three levels of discharge force and turbo mode. For household use apply wall options, and floor and ceiling in offices, enterprises, and public places.
The electronics of this unit controls all parameters:
- Allows you to control using the remote control, records the desired temperature and discharge air flow.
- It records the temperature of the air that enters the evaporator and measures the air temperature in the room.
- When the set temperature in the room is reached, the compressor turns off and turns on when the maximum permissible conditions change by 3-5⁰C.
- The temperature is maintained by adjusting the rotation of the fan in the indoor unit, as well as the rotation of the compressor. If the evaporator is turned off, it will form a large number of condensation in those units that are not designed for this. This may cause water to flow through the indoor unit into the room.
- The remote control provides control of the tongue (blinds), which gives direction to the air flow.
- Prevents premature starting.
- Controls the outside temperature of the unit.
- Monitors a timer that can be set to certain time.
Room heating
Modern air conditioners can heat the air that enters the room. This occurs when the four-way valve is switched, which changes the direction of the air supply. It is controlled by a solenoid at a voltage of 220 V, which comes from inside. During the heating function, heat is formed on the outdoor unit, which must be removed. You should not heat the house with SCV when the temperature outside is below freezing - this can lead to freezing and defrosting, which is tantamount to breakdown. It is better to use heating at temperatures above 0⁰C.
Cooling in the cold season
The SKV has a winter kit that allows you to condition the air in the rooms closed type where there is intense heat generation - server rooms, workshops and the like. When cold air is pumped in, the unit heats up outside, making it impossible for it to freeze. This kit includes a fan control controller - it turns it on in condenser mode when warming up, and also heats up the condensate drain tube.
High temperatures
For freon R10A there is a critical heat point - it is 72⁰C, therefore, Maximum temperature outside it should be no more than 45-50⁰C. For freon R22, the maximum block temperature is 96⁰C, therefore, permissible temperature environment 65-70⁰C - this allows you to install such units in hot shops, attics and garages. Such high temperatures may be on metal attics, in MAAFs and other metal premises.
When the outside temperature is very high, the unit operates with pressure drops and more freon is required. This factor makes the compressor work harder and pump maximum amount freon, which leads to its shutdown by the electronics. Conventional SCRs are designed for temperatures no higher than 40⁰C. If the air conditioner in the house or apartment is located on the sunny side, then when installing split systems with your own hands, it is recommended to attach a canopy on top that will protect the unit from the sun.
For non-standard operating modes, the capacity of the capillary channel is reduced, and this ensures a significant pressure drop at the inlet and outlet with a smaller amount of pumped freon. Since there is less gas in the system, it is not liquid that passes through the capillary channel, but gas with liquid - it turns out that the circulation is significantly reduced and the air conditioner retains its ability to operate in non-standard conditions. Under normal conditions temperature conditions Such changes are harmful to the air conditioner, and it quickly breaks down.
Multi systems
Multi-split system
If the SCV is equipped with several blocks, then it will already be a multi system - it means one block outdoors and several blocks in the building. Such equipment is very convenient for offices, shops or a large residential building. It is noteworthy that in such a situation, the outdoor unit can be combined with several systems that are different from each other, on the floor, on the wall and on the ceiling. Of course, such units are more expensive - there is an additional controller for control the necessary modes and compressors with fans.
Such systems come with one or several compressors. In the case of one compressor, the internal SCR unit transmits information to the external part of the unit, which determines the operating mode of the compressor. Systems with several compressors usually have two or three units. In such a situation, a separate compressor, a separate four-way valve and a separate capillary tube are installed on each unit. The compressor of the outdoor unit records the signals from all indoor units and sets the operation of the fan and compressor. Such air conditioners come in both inverter and non-inverter types.
Air conditioner care
Due to condensation, both the indoor and outdoor units two to three years gets clogged, so they need to be cleaned - this is done inside with hot steam, and outside is washed with water. Thus, fungal mold is removed along with dust. Without cleaning the unit, its efficiency can decrease by half, and at times even more. Especially a lot of dust accumulates on the external unit due to cars and trees. The filters on top are of little help and serve more for advertising than for cleaning.
Air Conditioner Requirements
Video: Installation work
Installing a split system with your own hands is, in fact, not difficult and you can watch the process on video, but you should take into account several factors:
- In no case should the air conditioner be located near heating devices, for example above a radiator - this greatly increases the consumption of electricity, for which you have to pay.
- There should be no debris in the system, as it can damage the vacuum pump.
- Boiling freon can evaporate even through a micro gap, so during installation the unit should be checked for leaks.
- The outdoor unit should be located lower than the indoor unit. Otherwise, this is fraught with excessive energy consumption and the thermosiphon effect.
- Heating the outer part of the SCR also causes unnecessary waste of electricity.
- The drainage tube can only go down, without loops bent up. Such bends serve as a collection point for debris and fungal mold.
- Installing split systems with your own hands without a vacuum pump does not lead to anything good - the compressor will drive freon, which will cause overheating of the air and spoilage of the oil, which will damage the compressor. Too expensive - it is often easier to buy a new one.
Air split
There are two separate units: evaporative (in the apartment) and compressor-condensing (outdoors). Although modern units They work not only to cool the air, but also to heat it, it turns out that freon condenses in the internal part of the unit, and evaporation occurs in the external part, which is why they are called that way - internal and external.
Tool selection
It is better to install the air conditioner during repair work in the house
It is most convenient to carry out installation work during renovations in an apartment, since you will have to drill holes in the wall, which will create a lot of dust. To install the unit you will need the following tools:
- with a standard set of drills and a core cutter ø 50 mm. With this cutter you will have to drill through the main (load-bearing) wall to remove the pipes.
- Magnet for detecting the presence of reinforcement. And in concrete walls it definitely exists.
- A grinder, but a pipe cutter is better for cutting pipes - be sure to blow out the pipe after this so that there are no copper chips left there.
- To flare the pipes, you will need a scraper, since sealing cannot be achieved with improvised means. In addition, you cannot clean the ends with a file or needle file so that sawdust does not get into the middle.
- Bicycle or car pump for leak control.
- Vacuum pump – will be needed for vacuuming before refueling the unit.
- Ampere-volt-ohmmeter (possibly a phase indicator) for connecting to a network of ≈220 V.
- Pressure gauge for checking pressure.
Installation work
The bracket on the street is secured with anchor dowels
The most difficult thing is to attach the brackets to the wall on the outside of the house - usually this is done below the window so that there is access to the external unit. It should be secured with plastic anchor dowels ø 14-16 mm - two pieces for each bracket. Some people are mistaken and buy metal molly, but the dowel is an umbrella type and it will not stay in a solid wall. This installation can be done from a telescopic tower, but it will be expensive, so it’s easier to lean over the window and drill holes, but first you need to make marks with a pencil. To prevent the hole from going astray, first drill with a thin drill ø 5-6 mm, and then take ø 14-16 mm
The street block must be lower than the interior block
As a rule, it is not recommended to install an outdoor unit yourself without proper experience - it is dangerous not only for health, but also for life.
But if you have construction experience in high-rise work, then you can install it. You can, of course, install it on a balcony or loggia, if they are not glazed - if the unit is indoors, it will overheat. The most important thing is to screw the brackets well, but if you are afraid of heights, then it is better not to undertake such work, but to invite a specialist - they have experience working at heights, so it is better to pay, but not take risks.
But first you need to determine the place where the indoor unit will be located, so that you can then install the outdoor unit in relation to it. It’s most convenient when they are nearby - you don’t have to add copper tubes - they are expensive. Then you make a hole in the wall with a milling cutter, but if the walls are concrete, then it is best to punch the hole with a chisel so as not to break the crown on the wire.
Installing the mounting plate for the indoor unit
The mounting plate for attaching the air conditioner should be inserted strictly level and secured with plastic dowels. Here, anchors are no longer needed - you can get by with dowels ø 6 mm and self-tapping screws 90 mm long. I was not mistaken - it is 6 mm dowels that are needed for fastening so that the screw does not tear out from the wall. If the walls are soft, then you can drive two self-tapping screws into one dowel - it’s much stronger. Of course, it will be difficult to tighten two screws with a screwdriver, so it is better to use a screwdriver or electric drill.
Pipeline assembly
The tubes are cut with a meter excess so that there is room for bending. The tube should be bent very carefully so that it does not crack anywhere. Although wrinkles should not be allowed either - such deformation will impede the flow of refrigerant, and this in turn will cause excessive consumption of electricity. The most better thermal insulation, this is a pipe made of polyurethane foam - it will last a very long time, but foam rubber will not last even one season. Flanges are put on the ends and only after that flaring is done. The threads on the flanges must be turned towards the end of the tube in order to screw them to the fittings. New air conditioners have fittings different diameters, so it will be impossible to mix up the ends. But the passport contains assembly instructions, so you can constantly keep an eye on it.
For drainage, it is best to use metal plastic ø 16 mm, since corrugated plastic quickly crumbles under the influence of precipitation and temperature changes. If the thread is not provided for drainage, then you can connect it with heat shrink, heating it with a soldering iron or over an open fire - with matches or a lighter.
In order to connect the indoor and outdoor units, use a multi-core cable with a core cross-section of not 1.5 mm - there are terminals with names. The names of the terminals may not match, and then you will have to figure it out according to the instructions that are in the passport. The wire is also packaged in a polyurethane foam pipe, and then all communications can be wrapped with tape. This pipe is inserted into a 50 mm hole, which is made in advance in the wall.
To check the sealing, use distilled water heated until evaporation and with a solution laundry soap(it can be grated). To continue, remove the nipple from the outlet and pump water from the pump - if bubbles appear on the thread, tighten the nut slightly. After completion, wipe the soap with a wet cloth or sponge. The nipple is put in place and air is pumped out with a vacuum pump, which will remove dust and moisture. This needs to be done for a long time - 40-60 minutes - the moisture will be removed along with the air. The system is pumped with freon from a cylinder through a pressure gauge - the required pressure is indicated in the passport.
Video: Installation work on installing a split system
Now all that remains is to test the unit - this can be done with remote control or the start button on the indoor unit. If testing does not start, you will have to call a specialist, since the guarantees will no longer be valid. When the test starts, the blinds should open and cold air should flow out. Blinds are adjustable up to desired position from the remote control remote control.
Conclusion
If something doesn’t work out with the installation of a split system with your own hands, and this is usually an outdoor unit, then you will have to call a specialist or hire a telescopic tower. But this concerns multi-storey buildings– on the first floors and in the private sector, problems usually do not arise.
To install an air conditioner, as a rule, you need to call specialists who, upon completion of installation of the equipment, will issue you with a document indicating that the work was carried out correctly. If you install a split system yourself, you lose the right to warranty service. But in order to save money, many home craftsmen try to install the air conditioner themselves. In this case, it is worth considering one point: in order to properly connect the external unit of the system with the internal one, and then put the unit into operation, you will need to purchase quite a expensive equipment. In addition, installing a split system is quite a troublesome task if you do it yourself. Purchasing equipment is advisable in the following cases:
- you plan to move one or more units to new locations;
- if you purchased several units;
- you are planning a serious renovation of the apartment, which involves complete dismantling, and then reverse installation split systems;
- you want to help install a split system for your friends or relatives;
- If you need this set of tools to repair your car air conditioner.
In other cases, installing an air conditioner in an apartment with your own hands is impractical.
IN standard equipment Split systems usually include such components.
Important! To install the air conditioner yourself and put it into operation, you need to supplement the standard equipment of the device.
Installation materials and tools
To install a split system yourself, you will need to purchase the following materials.
You also cannot do without a special tool:
- pipe bender (how to use, shown in the video);
- Rimmer-stripping;
- pipe cutter (you can learn how to use it from the video);
- rolling (see video);
- manifold;
- Vacuum pump.
Selecting a mounting location for the indoor unit
The location of the indoor module should be such that during its operation you do not experience discomfort from the flow of cool air. If you look at the following figure, it will become clear without words what types of ideal options installing an air conditioner in the apartment.
When placing the module above the head of the bed, the flow of cold air will not enter the rest area and will not cause harm to health. Workplace It is recommended to position it so that the air flow is either from the side or from the rear. If the table you work at is located under an air conditioner in an apartment or office, you can install a special screen under the hairdryer to direct the flow along the ceiling.
Requirements for installation of the indoor unit
There are the following rules for placing the indoor air conditioner unit in a room:
- the distance between the hair dryer and the ceiling must be at least 15 cm (some models are installed at a distance of 20-30 cm from the ceiling);
- the distance from the installed block to the wall on the right or left is at least 30 cm;
- the obstacle in the path of air flow should be no closer than 150 cm.
Sometimes the question arises: at what height should I hang the indoor module if the room has high ceilings? On average, you can hang an air conditioner on the wall at a height 280 cm from the floor, as it shown on the picture.
The following figure shows examples various options installations that clearly show how best to install an air conditioner.
Requirements for installation of the outdoor unit
The external module of the unit is usually placed under a window, near a window or on a balcony. If the balcony fence is strong enough, then you can fix the module on it.
If the apartment is on the first floor, then the outdoor unit must be located at a height of at least 2 meters from the ground, adhering to the rule: the outdoor unit must be mounted slightly lower than the indoor unit, or at the same level with it.
When installing split system modules, you should remember the minimum and maximum distances between them. These values may differ depending on different manufacturers climate control technology. For example, for Panasonic split systems minimum distance there can be 3 meters between modules, and for Daikin - from 1.5 to 2.5 meters.
Some manufacturers do not specify a minimum distance at all. In this case, the blocks can be placed back to back.
The maximum length of the route between modules is usually 6 meters. More is allowed, but in such a situation it will be necessary refilling with freon, which entails additional material investments. Therefore, if you install the air conditioner yourself, it is better not to exceed the designated 6 meters.
Installation procedure
The procedure for installing an air conditioner, including an inverter air conditioner, implies step-by-step installation all its modules and highways. Installation must be performed following step by step instructions given below.
The rules for installing an air conditioner state that at the first stage you will need to install the indoor unit (hair dryer) of the air conditioner. To do this, follow these steps.
- To properly install the air conditioner yourself, take a steel mounting frame and attach it to the wall where the hair dryer is intended to be installed (taking into account all the distances described above). It is important that the frame for installing the air conditioner is placed strictly horizontally(use a building level).
- Mark places for fastenings.
- Using a hammer drill, make holes in the wall and hammer plastic dowels into them.
- Place the plate against the wall and secure it with self-tapping screws.
- The hair dryer is suspended on the mount (plate) for the air conditioner, after which it is necessary to check the horizontal position again. If you allow the air conditioner in the room to skew in the opposite direction from the drainage channel, the liquid will accumulate in the pan and flow down the walls.
Preparation of communication channels
Do-it-yourself air conditioner installation continues with preparing the channel for the main line. To bring out the freon circuit tubes, power cables and drainage, it is necessary to make a hole of the appropriate diameter in the wall. For this, a hammer drill with a long drill is used. To ensure free flow of condensate to the street, it is necessary to make slight slope.
Outdoor unit installation
Installing an external air conditioner unit is considered the most labor-intensive process when installing split systems. The difficulties arise from the fact that the weight of the module can reach 20 kg or more, due to the compressor located in it. In addition, most often the external module is installed at a high height.
To begin, make markings using a level. Then use a hammer drill to make holes. Next, anchor bolts are screwed into them, and the brackets themselves are screwed to them with nuts. After the brackets are securely fastened, the external module is installed on them.
When installing an air conditioner, especially an outdoor unit, you will need the help of at least one person. If the module is installed at a high altitude, then you will not be able to install the air conditioner yourself. It is better to use the services of climbers to hang this module.
The outdoor module is attached to the brackets using bolts. It is recommended to place thick rubber under the feet to reduce vibration.
Connecting blocks by communications
To continue installing the split system with your own hands, you need to connect both modules to each other.
- First of all, remove the protective plastic caps on the terminals of the external unit. Using the instructions, connect the control and power cables that come from the indoor module to them.
- Carefully, in order to connect the modules in the future, make route installation your air conditioner, having previously put thermal insulation on the tubes (the ends are fixed with reinforced tape). To prevent debris from getting into the tubes, also seal their ends with tape. The route is secured with clamps screwed to the wall. After this, measure the length of the line and cut the tubes, leaving a margin of 10 cm. Place union nuts on them and roll the ends. Using a rimmer, remove the chamfer. The laying of a route (main) for an air conditioner can be carried out both outside and inside the premises, if for aesthetic reasons it is prohibited to place any communications on the facade of the building.
- Using union nuts, first screw the tubes to the fittings of the external module, then to the fittings of the internal module.
- Secure drainage tube using plastic clamps.
Below is a diagram of the connection of split system modules.
Vacuuming
Without evacuating the line, refrigerant cannot be introduced into the system. This procedure will require a vacuum pump and a gauge manifold. The pump is connected to the filling fitting through the manifold, as shown in the figure below (the valves on the manifold should be in the “closed” position), after which it is turned on for 20-30 minutes. to remove residual air from the system.
After turning on the vacuum pump, you need to open the handle located under the low pressure gauge. After a short period of time, the needle on the pressure gauge will begin to fall and reach zero, within 30 seconds or more. The pumping time depends on the length of the line and the diameter of the tubes. The position of the arrow at zero means that in the highway a vacuum has formed.
Do not turn off the pump for at this stage. Continue vacuuming for about 30 minutes. After the specified time has passed, first turn off the tap on the manifold, and only then turn off the pump. If the tap is not closed, air will leak into the system.
Freon filling
Freon is running into the system without disconnecting the hose connected to the service port valve. If this is done before the refrigerant starts, air will enter the line.
In order to independently introduce refrigerant into the system, you need to slowly open the valve located on the liquid valve using an allen key. After filling the line with refrigerant, you can unscrew the hose connected to the service port located on the gas valve.
Attention! When the hose is disconnected, freon may be released, which can freeze your hands and damage your eyes. It is recommended to wear safety glasses and gloves on your hands. The face must be kept away from the fitting.
It is necessary to unscrew the fitting from the valve as quickly as possible to reduce the loss of freon. Don't be alarmed by loud hissing. The nut may become covered with frost when the refrigerant escapes. Do not touch it without gloves to avoid getting burned.
All connections can be washed to check for leaks. After checking, screw all the plugs onto the valve valves, not applying much force, but well enough. If you tighten them loosely, it is possible that winter period will happen freon leak.
After you have verified that the line is tight, turn on the split system for a while, then check all connections again. At this stage, the installation of the wall-mounted air conditioner is considered complete.
Do I need permission?
People often ask whether permission is needed to install a split system, and is it possible to install it without approval from the authorities? Based on practice, permission to install an air conditioner is not required. An exception may be cases when you need to coordinate the installation climate control equipment with the authorities, in buildings that are architectural monuments or having historical, aesthetic value. In other cases, approval is not required for the installation of climate control equipment.
The air conditioner should be selected and installed in advance, without waiting for the summer heat. This way you can save a significant amount, especially if you do. In order for the equipment to work without failures, installing the air conditioner yourself must be done strictly according to the instructions, in a suitable place. Inconsistency technical specifications or incorrect selection of parts will lead to rapid breakdown of the split system.
To install everything correctly, you should have an understanding of the structure and operating principle of the air conditioner. It consists of a compressor and evaporation unit connected by tubes. The compressor is mounted on the outside of the wall, and the evaporator is installed indoors. Expensive models have not one indoor unit, but several that are connected to one compressor.
Refrigerant is supplied to the evaporator unit through a nozzle under high pressure. It enters the evaporator chamber, where it expands, boils, and its vapor begins to intensively absorb heat. During this process, water condensate is released and settles on the radiator of the evaporation unit. From there, the moisture is directed into a reservoir and transported outside the building through a tube.
All this time, the compressor pumps out refrigerant evaporation from the chamber, increasing the pressure behind the pump. As a result, the refrigerant heats up and turns from a liquid into a high-density mist. In this state, the refrigerant enters the condensate chamber equipped with a radiator, is cooled by a fan and turns back into liquid. In this form, it is again supplied under pressure to the evaporator nozzle and the working process is repeated.
The efficiency of equipment operation and energy consumption directly depend on operating conditions. If any heating device is located near the air conditioner, the compressor is consumed and more likely to fail. Ordinary dust that gets inside the system can also cause a breakdown, and therefore carry out wet cleaning should be done regularly and very carefully. You cannot place various objects on the surface of the block, or cover it with anything.
To prevent refrigerant evaporation, all joints and connections should be carefully sealed during installation. The outdoor unit should be located lower than the indoor unit and, if possible, in the coolest place. It is good if the block is constantly in the shade from the overhang of the roof or walls. Compliance with these conditions will ensure uninterrupted operation of the air conditioner and a comfortable indoor climate.
| Air conditioner part | Description |
|---|---|
| 1. Fan | creates a flow of air blowing over the condenser |
| 2. Capacitor | radiator in which cooling and condensation of freon occurs. The air blown through the condenser is heated accordingly |
| 3. Compressor | compresses freon and maintains its movement along refrigeration circuit. The compressor is of piston or scroll type. Piston compressors are cheaper but less reliable than scroll compressors, especially in low temperatures outside air |
| 4. Control board | installed only on inverter air conditioners. In non-inverter models, they try to place all electronics in the indoor unit, since large differences in temperature and humidity reduce the reliability of electronic components |
| 5. Four way valve | installed in reversible (heat - cold) air conditioners. In heating mode, this valve changes the direction of movement of freon. In this case, the indoor and outdoor units seem to change places: the indoor unit works for heating, and the outdoor unit for cooling |
| 6. Union connections | connect to them copper pipes connecting the outdoor and indoor units |
| 7. Freon system filter | is installed in front of the compressor inlet and protects it from copper chips and other small particles that may enter the system during installation of the air conditioner. Of course, if the installation was carried out in violation of the technology and a large amount of debris got into the system, then the filter will not help |
| 8. Protective quick-release cover | covers the fitting connections and terminal block used to connect electrical cables. In some models, the protective cover covers only the terminal block, and the fitting connections remain outside |
| Description | |
|---|---|
| 1. Front panel | It is a plastic grill through which air enters the unit. The panel can be easily removed for servicing the air conditioner (cleaning filters, etc.) |
| 2. Coarse filter | represents plastic mesh and is designed to retain coarse dust, animal hair, etc. For normal operation of the air conditioner, the filter must be cleaned at least twice a month |
| 3. Filter fine cleaning | It happens various types: charcoal (removes unpleasant odors), electrostatic (retains fine dust), etc. The presence or absence of fine filters does not have any effect on the operation of the air conditioner |
| 4. Fan | has 3 - 4 rotation speeds |
| 5. Evaporator | a radiator in which cold freon is heated and evaporated. The air blown through the radiator is cooled accordingly |
| 6. Horizontal blinds | adjust the direction of the air flow vertically. These blinds are electrically driven and their position can be adjusted using a remote control. In addition, the blinds can automatically perform oscillatory movements for uniform distribution of air flow throughout the room |
| 7. Display panel | On the front panel of the air conditioner there are indicators (LEDs) showing the operating mode of the air conditioner and signaling possible malfunctions |
| 8. Vertical blinds | serve to adjust the direction of the air flow horizontally. IN household air conditioners The position of these blinds can only be adjusted manually. The ability to adjust from the remote control is only available in some premium air conditioner models |
| Condensate tray | located under the evaporator and serves to collect condensate (water formed on the surface of the cold evaporator). Water is discharged from the sump to the outside through a drainage hose. |
| Control board | usually located on the right side of the indoor unit. This board contains an electronics unit with a central microprocessor |
| Union connections | located at the lower rear of the indoor unit. Copper pipes connecting the outdoor and indoor units are connected to them. |
Air conditioner installation tools
If you are planning to install the air conditioner yourself, you need to prepare in advance all the tools that you may need:
In addition, you will need a whole bay copper tube with factory-rolled ends. Scratches, dents and similar defects are not allowed.
It is best to install an air conditioner during overhaul, since you will have to break through the wall and damage the finish.
Video - How the air conditioner works
Prices for components for air conditioners
Air conditioner components
Air conditioner installation instructions
If the tools have been purchased, the air conditioner has been delivered and unpacked, you can get to work. The outdoor unit is installed first, and then the system is installed indoors. During the installation process, we must not forget about safety precautions, especially if the work is carried out at the level of the second floor and above.
Mounting the outdoor unit
When installing an air conditioner in a private house, there are no particular difficulties in placing the outdoor unit, but the location must be chosen very carefully. The unit body should not block the view of neighbors, and condensation should not flow down the wall of the house. In this case, the air conditioner should be mounted within reach from the balcony, since such equipment requires periodic maintenance.
It is best if the block is fixed on the eastern or north side window or balcony, and preferably in its lower part. This way it won’t disturb anyone, and you can easily reach it through open window. Using a level, mark the mounting locations for the brackets and drill holes in the wall for the anchor bolts. To lay interconnect communications, a through hole with a diameter of 80 mm is drilled. IN brick wall It is recommended to drill along the seam between the bricks - it will take less time and the hole will be neater.
The brackets are installed according to the markings, aligned and the bolts are securely tightened. The outdoor unit itself is fixed so that at least 10 cm remains between the radiator and the wall surface. The connection is made a little later, and then the resulting gaps are sealed. If the block is securely attached to a vertical surface, you can proceed to the next step.
The indoor unit must not be mounted behind curtains, above a battery, or in rooms with sources of electrical interference that could cause damage to the block processor. After choosing a location, be sure to check the wall for the absence of already laid communications - electrical wiring, water or heating pipes.
If the area is free, attach a mounting plate: step back 10 cm from the ceiling, 5 cm from the corner of the wall and mark a horizontal line with a pencil. Drill holes for fasteners and securely screw the plate. The internal unit of the air conditioner is mounted on the plate, after which a hole is drilled in the side wall for communication connections - electrical wiring, pipes, hoses for condensate drainage.
Connecting electrical wiring
For the block, they lay their own indoors, the minimum cross-section of which is 1.5 square meters. mm. Be sure to install an automatic shutdown. When the wiring is laid, it is connected to the panel at the input: wire yellow color with a green stripe connect to neutral wire. To determine zero and phase, you should use an indicator.
After that, isolated stranded wires connect the terminals of both blocks by passing them through a hole in the wall. The names of the terminals must match the wires; everything is clearly described in the instructions supplied with the air conditioner.
Copper tubes must be cut, leaving a margin of about a meter for bends. When bending tubes, special tools are used to avoid wrinkles, dents and cracking of the metal. The prepared tubes are covered with thermal insulation - polyurethane foam hoses. Foam rubber is not suitable as a sealant, as it has short term operation.
Threaded flanges are placed on insulated pipes, and the thread should be located at the end of the tube. The next stage is tube flaring. Flaring must be carried out very carefully so that cracks and grooves do not form on the tubes. The nut should fit easily onto the flared joint, and it is better to tighten it with a torque wrench - this will prevent the flared joints from being squeezed out of the nut.
The pipelines are alternately attached to the corresponding fittings, which are difficult to confuse due to different diameters. The flanges are screwed onto the fittings so that the connection is tight, but not pinched, otherwise there is a risk of damaging the tube. Finally, a piece of plastic tube with a reinforced body is connected to the drain pipe. Fastening is carried out with a piece of heat-shrinkable tubing or a threaded flange, if included in the kit. The drainage tube should be taken away from load-bearing wall as far as possible.
Now the pipes are inserted into the hole, aligned, and secured from the outside tightly to the wall with clamps. The wiring cable is fixed nearby and the pipeline is connected to the external unit. The hole is blown out polyurethane foam or filled with silicone. All external connections are checked for leaks using a bicycle pump and soap solution. If air is leaking somewhere, tighten the thread more tightly. After checking soap scum Wipe off the thread with a clean cloth.
Evacuation of the system
Evacuating the system makes it possible to remove the smallest particles of dust and moisture. This process is performed after sealing threaded connections, otherwise it will not be possible to completely pump out the air. To do this, connect a vacuum pump to the system and pump out the air for an hour.
Filling and testing the air conditioner
The refrigerant from the cylinder must be pumped into the system. An adapter and a pressure gauge are connected to the cylinder, and then, strictly monitoring the pressure, the tank is filled. When the process is completed, the circuit breaker on the air conditioner is turned on, after which the system independently enters test mode. If everything works smoothly and the circulation of cold air becomes uniform, you can close the hole in the wall, remove the consequences of installation and enjoy the coolness.
Find out how it is carried out, and also familiarize yourself with step by step guide, from our new article.
Prices for the range of air conditioners
Air conditioners
Video - Installing an air conditioner yourself
Are you tired of being exhausted by this incredible heat, as well as freezing during the first autumn cold until you turn on the heating? - Air conditioning will help you. Instructions for installing an air conditioner with your own hands from the site will be logical continuation our article in which we gave advice,.
What parts does the air conditioner installation consist of:
Where to install the air conditioner
Initially, you must determine where you will install the air conditioner and how. You need to start from three factors:
- There should not be too much distance between the external and internal units (preferably no more than 3 meters);
- The indoor unit should be positioned so that the air flow coming out of it is not directed towards you;
- It is best to mount the external unit in such a way that you have easy access to him.
Once you have decided on the location of the indoor unit, consider where the outdoor unit will be mounted. Ideally, it is best to install it near a window or near a balcony, so you can freely strengthen the external unit, and moreover, you will have the opportunity to constantly maintain it. It is also preferable to install the external unit not on sunny side, and if possible, then in the shade. Sometimes you can see that some people install air conditioning on their balcony, inside - doing this is illogical for a number of reasons. If necessary, you can order a tower and install the air conditioner in a place that cannot be reached from a window or balcony, but every time to clean or refuel the air conditioner you will need to order a tower, which is not rational.
If you have an air conditioner with a power of 09 or 12, and you plan for it to work for 2 rooms, then the indoor unit must be installed in such a way that the direct flow of air enters the 2nd room.
Now you need to think about how the air conditioner communications will go. They can pass both outside and inside the wall. It is difficult to say unequivocally which of these options to choose, since communications running inside the wall are more aesthetically pleasing, because they will not be visible. If you carry out communications from the outside, then you will not need to spend a lot of time making grooves in the wall for these communications. In turn, we would still advise beginners to carry out communications outside and hide them in a plastic box.
When you have decided on the installation location of the air conditioner, let's get to work.
Installation of the indoor unit
First, place the indoor unit of the air conditioner against the wall, making sure that there is nothing in the way of it or you. In addition, check the symmetry of the indoor unit so that it fits harmoniously into the design and interior of the room. The indoor unit must be installed at a distance of at least 15 centimeters from the ceiling to ensure free air capture.
In order to hang the indoor unit of the air conditioner on the wall, you need to remove its metal part. back wall indoor unit - mounting plate (at the same time, practice removing and putting it on). We attach it to the wall and use a pencil to make marks where the fasteners will be. The mounting plate must be leveled; if the indoor unit hangs unevenly, the condensate may not flow into the drain pipe, but will simply begin to flow from the air conditioner onto the floor. We will be attaching the indoor unit itself directly to the wall almost at the end. You will also need to determine which side the communications from the indoor unit will come out from and remove the decorative plug from that side.
Next, make a hole in the wall through which 2 copper tubes will pass and electrical cable, as well as a drainage tube. To do this, you will need a powerful hammer drill and a drill of the required diameter. The outlet for communications should be at the level of the bottom of the air conditioner or lower. After this, we make a hole in the wall at a slight slope. When you make a hole, we recommend using a vacuum cleaner to collect all the dust so that it does not scatter throughout the apartment.
And one more little piece of advice: when you make a hole in the wall, the part in the area in which the hole itself will be made may break off. To prevent such a piece from falling, support a box of something under this section of the wall. When the hole is ready, clean it and proceed to the procedure for installing the indoor unit.
Installation of the external unit
The next stage of installing the air conditioner is installing the external unit. The external unit must be hung in such a way that you have free access to its left side (as a rule, communications are connected to the left side). Thus, it is best to mount the external unit under the window or to the right of the window. When you have decided on the location, make markings on the wall of the house using a pencil. It is very important to make level markings so that the external unit hangs absolutely level.
To mount the external unit, use special factory brackets, which are sold in many construction stores. Never use homemade ones. To attach the brackets, use 16x100 anchors or three-way expansion dowels with a hex head screw of the same size, there should be at least 2 of them per bracket. Also use washers between brackets and fasteners. The distance between the brackets should be equal to the distance of the legs on the external unit. If you are hanging the air conditioner from the side, first attach the near bracket, and then the far one, so that later you can hold on to the first one.
There is no need to immediately tighten the anchor or screw all the way, you just need to not tighten it too much, since it is difficult to create an ideal size for the distance between the fasteners, and the possibility of slight movement of the brackets will help to fit them to the legs of the air conditioner. When the brackets are fixed in the wall, we put special rubber pads on the legs of the air conditioner, which will prevent vibrations of the air conditioner from being transmitted to the brackets and to the wall. Next, we place the external block on the brackets and fix it with blots and washers. Now check the evenness of the external unit with a level and then tighten the fasteners of the brackets to the wall. This completes the installation of the external unit.
We draw your attention to the installation procedure for the external unit. This is very dangerous, do not neglect safety. Use safety devices if necessary.
Laying communications
When the external unit is fixed, it is necessary to conduct communications between them, or as the installers say, “backbone”.
Communications include: 2 copper pipes for refrigerant, metal plastic tube for drainage, and an electrical cable that will power the external unit. Now let's look at what is needed and why.
We need 2 copper tubes for the circulation of refrigerant between the external and internal units. Liquid refrigerant is supplied through one tube, and through the other it returns in a gaseous state to the external unit. Condensation will flow through the drain tube from the indoor unit, and the electrical cable will power the external unit from the internal one, which will control its operation.
As you can see with reverse side air conditioner, there are 2 copper tubes of different diameters, we will need to lengthen them and lead them to the external unit. Connecting the tubes and connecting them to the external unit will be done using nuts. You will have a completely logical question: how to fix the nut on the tube? – It’s very simple, flaring is used for this. What is flaring? Special device, rolling, a conical tip expands the edges of the tube, which block the nut and tighten with the other part of the tube. To make it more clear what this is, pay attention to the picture below.
All nuts for connection are already included in the kit: some are on the valves of the external block, others are put on plugs at the back of the internal block. We start connecting the tubes from the indoor unit. For this we need 1/4" and 3/8" copper tubes. After this, unscrew one nut from the tube of the indoor unit and remove it from the plug. To do this, take a cutter and cut off part of the tube with it. Cutting must be done as follows: in in the right place, in which you want to cut the tube, tighten the cutter - make one turn of scroll, tighten the cutter a little - another turn of scroll, then last time we tighten the cutter and make a scroll, after which the tube is cut off. When the tube is cut off, remove the nut from this plug and put it on a tube of the same diameter, after which we flare its end, first making sure that it is even and free of burrs.
To flare a tube, you need to clamp it into a mold of the required diameter, making a protrusion of 2 millimeters beyond its edge, after which the tube is flared. Do this very carefully so that the flaring is smooth and not beveled. As a rule, when the rolling cone hits the tube, 4 turns of the lever will be enough. Next, we check the flaring to ensure that it is smooth, without cracks, and that the nut fits snugly against its walls.
When you have done all of the above with one tube, do the same with the second. Then we carefully connect the flared ends of the pipes (air conditioner and main) and tighten the nuts.
The next stage of work is measuring the distance from the indoor unit to the outdoor one, we need this in order to calculate the required length of the main pipes through the hole in the wall. The length of the tubes must correspond to the distance from the external unit to the internal one. You can leave a margin of a few centimeters, but not much. Now that we have required distance– cut off the tubes with a cutter. It is very important to note that the tube must be cut strictly evenly, otherwise the connection will not be airtight and depressurization will occur. At the same time, their ends must be well insulated so that dirt does not get inside.
Next, we will need thermally insulating tubes that match the diameter of the copper ones; they will absorb condensate and will also separate the main tubes from each other, since they will have different temperatures. We cut off the required length of the heat-insulating tube and put each of them on the copper ones.
When the tubes are ready, we move on to the electrics. We take one part of a piece of copper four-core PVS cable with a cross-section of 1.5 per core, insert it into the external unit and connect it to the terminals. Now we measure the length from the power supply of the indoor unit to the power supply of the external unit. We cut off the required length of the cable and remove it along with the rest of the communications from the hole in the indoor unit.
The last thing left for us to do is connect the drainage tube. A drain hose can be used for this, but is not advisable. A drainage tube made of metal-plastic will allow you to set the direction in which liquids flow, but due to the flexibility of the hose this will not be possible. The drainage tube is placed over the drainage tube that comes out of the indoor unit. Its length should be 20-25 centimeters further than the external unit of the air conditioner, so keep this in mind when you cut it.
All tubes and cables going to the external unit must be wrapped with a special protective thermal insulating tape. You need to start winding from the indoor unit. It is necessary to wrap quite carefully. At the end we leave approximately 20 centimeters of an unwrapped section of communications, so that it is convenient for us to connect them to the external unit, and also so that we can install a drainage tube separately. The end of the thermal insulation tape can be secured with electrical tape. Now we carefully remove all communications from the recess of the indoor unit. The power cord is supplied separately.
Next, we carefully insert the communications into the hole in the wall and attach the indoor unit to the mounting plate. Please note that it is necessary to bend the tubes very carefully so as not to bend them, as this will reduce the permeability of the refrigerant and all the tubes will need to be redone.
Let's start external work. First, we recommend connecting the power cable to the terminals of the external unit. To do this, unscrew side cover and connect the wires to the same terminals in the same colors as on the indoor unit. Insert the cable into the special grooves in the cover and screw it on.
Now, using electrical tape, we fix the drainage tube to the bracket and slightly bend it down, making sure that the flowing liquid will not fall on someone’s visor, air conditioner or antenna.
So, the external block has been powered up, the drainage tube has been removed - all that remains is to connect the tubes to the external block. You probably guessed that you will need to flare the pipes again. As mentioned above, the nuts for the pipes are located on the outdoor unit on the valves on top. Now we remove the insulation from the end of the tubes that you made after cutting them so that dirt does not get there. Pull the insulating tube slightly to expose the end of the copper tube. We remove the nuts from the valves, put them on the tubes and do the flaring - one by one. Next, another rather difficult moment awaits you: connecting the tubes to the external unit. Carefully place one part of the tube against the other and tighten the nuts. The tubes cannot be mixed up, since they are of different diameters.
When everything is connected and the drainage tube is fixed, you need to wrap the remaining part of the tubes with thermal insulating tape. It is necessary to start the winding from the same place where we finished it, with an overlap. When winding, we release a drainage tube, and then an electrical cable, in those places where it will be necessary. In a place where the tubes branch, it is advisable to wrap each one separately, but you can also wrap it together. We fix the end of the thermal insulation tape with electrical tape.
This completes the main procedure for installing the air conditioner; now we move on to checking and preparing the system for startup.
Preparing and checking the air conditioning system
When, it would seem, everything difficult is behind you, another difficult moment awaits you - preparing the system. First, check whether you did everything correctly. Mentally reproduce all your actions and analyze them. A mistake will be very costly. If everything is done correctly, we move on.
Now we need to expel the air from the line and fill it with freon (refrigerant). To do this, unscrew all the nuts from the taps on the external block, not the ones that secure the tubes, but the blind ones. The large faucet will have 2 nuts, and the smaller faucet will have one. The smaller valve is liquid, the larger one is air.
Using the appropriate size hexagon, open the liquid valve half a turn and hold it for 5 seconds and close it. Next, take the same hexagon and press it onto the valve located at the bottom of the air valve. Before doing this, wear safety glasses or turn away to protect your eyes and try to hold your breath. As soon as the hissing stops (it will last about 3-5 seconds), stop pressing the valve. We do this 2 more times.
After this, take the hexagon and fully open the valve with liquid freon until it stops. After a few seconds, press the hexagon on the bottom valve of the air valve and hold for 5 seconds to remove any remaining air. Next, take a hexagon of a different size and open the side valve of the air valve, also all the way. The final stage is to tighten the nuts and tighten them.
At the bottom of the external unit there will be a hole into which you need to insert a special plastic tube, which should come with the air conditioner.
Now we check the connection of the air conditioner and its installation again. Is everything correct? - Then let's move on. Open the cover of the indoor unit, check whether the filters are installed correctly, and remove all protective stickers. Now we plug the cord from the air conditioner into the outlet and make the first start.
You need to check all modes. First, turn on the cold mode and wait a couple of minutes until cold air starts flowing from the air conditioner, then turn on the heating mode and wait until it starts to blow. warm air(if your air conditioner includes this function), then check the other modes.
When we are convinced that all modes are working, we turn on the cooling mode to maximum, and if there is a “turbo” mode, then turn it on. At the lowest temperature, leave the air conditioner running for about an hour, maybe more. This is necessary in order to “drive” the system. Check whether the air conditioner in cooling mode switches to fan mode when the set temperature is reached and whether the external unit turns off. After a certain time, set the temperature to a comfortable temperature for you.
Finally, a few words about the rationality of self-installation. On average, installing an air conditioner costs 3,000 rubles. If we subtract from this amount how much we spent on Consumables and for what we need special tool, it turns out that we saved about 2,000 rubles. But considering what we spent on self-installation air conditioning 4 hours and due to complexity installation nuances, so we recommend that you think about whether it’s worth saving on installing an air conditioner and doing it yourself. It may be better to entrust this matter to professional installers who will quickly install the air conditioner and guarantee you the quality of its work.
Once a year, preferably before starting summer season, sometime in May, clean the air conditioner. – we have already given you recommendations.