Connecting a chandelier with LED backlight and remote control. How an LED chandelier with a remote control is arranged and works: do-it-yourself repair experience. Faults and their elimination

Ways to control lamps without the use of stationary switches are increasingly gaining popularity among the population. This is due to the ease of use and the wide availability of kits for sale, which make it quite easy to transfer already working chandeliers to remote switching off or on.

Manufacturers have now massively mastered the production of original lamps with LED lamps and garlands, which create beautiful lighting effects while saving electricity.

They can be used without getting up from a chair or sofa using a small remote control.

The principle of remote control of luminaires

The remote control is based on the transition from those located on the walls of rooms and connected by wires to a chandelier and an apartment shield, to the use of radio control channels. For this apply:

a radio transmitter mounted in a small and convenient remote control;

a radio receiver that receives commands from the user and transmits them to the execution unit;

power supply systems of the console and receiver.

Structurally, the radio receiver is located on the same electronic board with power supplies, logic and actuators on relay keys and is called in one word - “controller”. It is powered from the apartment electrical wiring, placed near the chandelier and connected to it with connecting wires.

The radio signal from the remote control, received by the antenna and amplified by the radio receiver, is processed by logic and fed to the switching unit that connects certain lamps.

Technical possibilities of remote control

All of the above elements may have a different set of functions and, accordingly, differ in design complexity and cost. Consider their characteristics using the example of a common budget version of the kit shown in the photo.

The remote and controller are designed to work together. They are tuned to one common frequency and, in addition, use a radio encryption algorithm specially created for them. This is done in order to exclude the control of the chandelier from the owners of other apartments using similar equipment.

But, it should be understood that if one of these elements breaks down and needs to be replaced by another, you will have to buy a new remote control together with the controller.

The kit in question works with three autonomous lighting channels, each of which can have a load of up to 1 kilowatt, which is more than enough for home use even when using powerful incandescent lamps. However, when using fluorescent or energy-saving lamps, it should be taken into account that their starting currents are up to four times higher than the nominal values.

To control the lighting channels, 3 buttons are installed on the remote control: A, B, C, and the fourth D is designed to turn on the lamps or completely remove voltage from them.

Removing this remote from the controller at an eight-meter distance is quite enough for our apartments, although there are models of radio transmitters on sale that can control at distances of a hundred meters.

The remote control is powered by a galvanic battery, which is included in the kit, and the controller is powered from the mains using a block built into the board.

The kit under consideration has one feature: the voltage of the phase and working zero of the apartment wiring must be connected to the input of the controller. If you turn it off, and then apply it from the switch when the remote control is de-energized, then the chandelier starts to glow, bypassing the radio channel.

This allows you to control the light of the chandelier without remote control of conventional wall switches, but at the same time creates inconvenience associated with its possible unauthorized ignition at night or daytime.

A similar case can occur when the lamps are turned off by the radio remote control, and due to the occurrence of even short-term malfunctions in the power supply organization, consumers are turned off and then turned on. The controller perceives the supply of such a voltage as a command to start the lighting.

Designs of lighting installations for remote control

Remote control kits allow you to control the operation of any lighting fixtures. To do this, it is enough to select them in accordance with the technical characteristics:

operating and starting current;

network voltage;

You can equip any old chandelier with incandescent lamps with a remote control: just mount the controller in the electrical circuit and use the remote control.

Usually, for this, they try to build in the controller board:

inside the protective steel cover of the chandelier, covering the wires of the lamp;

into the ceiling hole near the mounting hook;

in place of the switch.

The latter case is rarely used: it requires additional wires from the switch to the illuminators.

Modern LED chandeliers can use combinations of different light sources:

• additional illuminators that create special effects.

However, some sources may require their own power and control circuits. An example is that, when turned on, they begin to work according to pre-prepared algorithms.

remote control led chandelier design

Let's consider this question on the example of the model shown in the above photo. It comes with a controller and a remote that allows you to use the same four modes: A, B, C, D.

Thanks to its design, the chandelier allows you to create various light compositions. This is what one of them looks like.

For mounting on the ceiling, a standard mounting plate is used, which is attached to the supporting concrete slab with the help of dowels and self-tapping screws. At the base of the chandelier, two holes are made through which the bar studs are threaded. Decorative nuts are screwed onto their threads, holding the weight of the structure through washers.

The base of the removed chandelier is usually hollow to accommodate all electrical parts in its space and ensure their installation.

Highlighted in the photo:

power wires and protective PE conductor;

controller with antenna;

LED lamps and garlands;

scheme for creating special effects of additional lamps.

In more detail, the controller mount is shown in the next photo. The lid has been removed for clarity.

The bottom box of the controller housing of this chandelier is firmly glued to its base. However, the board itself is not difficult to extract from there.

On the board are clearly visible:

three switching channels of channels A, B, C, which have outputs marked with blue, yellow and white wires;

channel for turning on and off the device;

radio receiver chip with antenna wire.

The same elements can be viewed from the back of the board.

Switching channels allow you to use all the luminaires simultaneously to create maximum illumination or set the half mode of their application along the internal or external contour.

In the upper part of the photo, it is clearly visible that the red wire of the network phase is soldered to the contact of the track and is bred along it according to the controller circuit. The working zero is specially made with two wires for a separate:

use in the controller circuit;

supply of lamps, garlands of lamps.

Hidden remote control features

Even a simplified version of the considered chandelier allows you to additionally use certain functions of the devices. You can release at least one lighting channel and use it for other purposes, for example:

manipulate a separate group of spotlights;

open or close window blinds by means of an electric drive;

operate the projector or other electrical devices.

More complex models of controllers and consoles can significantly expand the list of operations performed, carrying them out according to certain algorithms, carrying out:

selection of flowers;

inclusion of certain groups of lamps;

brightness adjustment;

using a timer to control lighting according to a schedule.

The remote control buttons discussed in the article are now undergoing changes. More advanced models with voice control are beginning to be introduced into the scheme.

Disadvantages of remote controlled chandeliers

Manufacturers of consoles and controllers indicate the maximum operating temperature in the technical specifications for their products. For the devices shown in the photographs, it is 85 degrees. This is a very important characteristic that many owners simply do not pay attention to.

Any electrical component works well when the right conditions are created for them. Microcircuits and semiconductor elements do not tolerate overheating and burn out. Many grades of low-melting solders flow when heated.

Where is the controller located? The answer is simple: at the highest point of the ceiling, which is always the hottest. In addition to everything, the board is placed in an unventilated metal box hidden in the chandelier body. Then it remains to compare the load power of luminaires, especially with incandescent or halogen lamps, their release of heat spent on heating the overall structure and draw a conclusion about a possible reduction in the service life declared by the manufacturer.

For this reason, you should always evaluate the possibility of removing heat from the electronic components of the controller, or at least ways to control its temperature, which many owners do not do at all. In this situation, the location of the electronics next to the chandelier, but with the exception of the thermal transfer of energy from the lamps to it, will be the most acceptable solution.

The thing is that when synchronizing the remote control, you do NOT need to look at the instructions. No matter how paradoxical it may sound. The manufacturer of the lamps changes each time for others, but forgets to correct the instructions. Luminaires "Saturn" of 2017 release (with a plastic base, and on the remote control in which the red light glows inside, and not white on the outside) are synchronized AFTER the lamp is turned on. Those. first, turn on the lamp, and after it lights up, press button 7 (with the Wi-Fi icon).

Problems when synchronizing the Saturn lamp with the 2016 remote control.

The simplest reason is a dead battery. Check the indicator on the remote control. When you press the buttons, it should glow constantly. If it blinks, or does not shine at all, replace the battery. The remote control uses batteries of type CR 2032, CR 2025, CR 2016. Depending on the battery manufacturer, or if the battery is not brand new, the CR 2016 model may not work.

The next reason is remote control not syncing through button 7, as written in the instructions. Pay attention to the back (metal) part with LEDs. If the black gasket is glued in the shape of a square, then the remote control is not synchronized through button 7.

This is a new batch of lamps, which arrived in October 2016. In this batch, the "smart Chinese" reprogrammed the remote control, and left the old instructions. Such a lamp is synchronized according to the instructions, but only through the M1 or M2 button (former memory buttons). Button 7 with radio waves now starts the demo mode. M2 button - will block the remote control if it was configured through the M1 button, or vice versa. If you accidentally lock the remote control with the M1 or M2 button, simply resynchronize it again. As you understand, the memory buttons in such lamps no longer work. This problem was only with . In the second half of November 2016 a new batch of fixtures arrived, naturally with the same symptoms and the old setup instructions. After all, they differ only in the shape of the diffuser, everything else in them is absolutely the same: the functions, the rear part, and the remote control.

IMPORTANT POINT!!! For some unknown reason, in batches of fixtures with a black square-shaped spacer, there are fixtures (very rarely) that are synchronized through button 7. Try different options.

Why do we need buttons M1 and M2.

So what are the M1 and M2 buttons for, besides synchronization? We will answer this question, the answer to which even the supplier does not know!!!

Here is a simple example:

You have a large room in which you want to install, for example, four lamps. In addition to everything, I wanted them to be controlled in the same way, not all at once, but in pairs (two shine with one light, two with another). Previously, for such a case, it was necessary to have two remote controls on hand. Now everything is much easier. Synchronize the first two lights with the M1 button, and the other two lights with the M2 button. Everything!!! Now, having one remote control, we control groups of lamps in the same room by switching the M1 and M2 buttons.

Is it possible to have many lamps and one remote control in the apartment?

If you have purchased not one lamp, but several, and for some reason you have only one remote control left, do not rush to buy new ones, because. one remote control can control all the lamps, and not all at once, but individually. Just synchronize the lamp in each room to one remote control. The problem is also solved, but there is one minus: one remote control is one remote control, and you will always have to carry it with you, no matter what room you go to. And also, having bought a new remote control from a new batch, it may not fit your lamp at all. We encounter such a problem not infrequently, and this is a fact.

The main malfunction of the remote control from the SATURN LED lamp.

The problem practically does not occur, because. was in deliveries until March 2016. But on the lamps of the old sample saturn 25w and almaz 25w, this problem was relevant until May 2017.

Now, after a new batch, this malfunction is not the main one. But, if such lamps are still on sale, we will help you fix the problem yourself. On such lamps, the gasket on the back is glued in the form of a circle, and the remote control is synchronized according to the instructions, through button 7 (with radio waves).

The button for gradually increasing the brightness of the light does not work, or other buttons do not work well.

The reason for this is the background radiation from the human hand. According to statistics, this problem occurs in 50% of cases. Actually, there is nothing to worry about. You can fix this problem yourself. In our store, each remote control is subjected to this procedure, because. Before sale, each lamp is tested for performance. If you purchased a lamp elsewhere and faced such a problem, you need to do the following steps:

1. Open the remote. You need to open the remote control from the side where the battery is located (pre-remove). The bottom part is very easy to open with a fingernail.

The sides are harder to open. To do this, it is best to take a clerical knife, because. the groove between the back and front of the remote is very narrow. It is also very convenient to open the remote control with a regular plastic card.

2. Take the metallized foil. Suitable window film from the sun, a wrapper from a KitKat chocolate bar, Twix, anything that has a metallized surface. Protective metallized packaging from electronic boards (sound card, motherboard, etc.)

ATTENTION!!! Do not use food foil, etc.

3. Cut off the strip to fit the back of the remote control.

4. We put it in the remote control

5. We assemble the remote control in the same sequence.

Now the buttons will work 100%. If nothing worked out for you, then the remote control was initially completely faulty, or the driver is faulty. This is rare, but it happens. Take it in for repair where you bought it, or buy a new remote control or driver.

We have . Bring it to us, and we will help you figure out what exactly is wrong with it.

If you purchased, do the same with it. This luminaire is produced in the same factory.

Hello, dear readers and guests of the Electrician's Notes website.

An acquaintance contacted me with the following problem - his radio-controlled chandelier does not turn on.

Let me remind you that a radio-controlled chandelier can be controlled either from the control panel or by pressing the switch.

In this case, the chandelier stopped responding to both the remote control and the switch.

I think that the problem is quite relevant, therefore, in hot pursuit, I decided to write an article that will help save money and deal with such a problem on my own, not only for ordinary consumer citizens and home craftsmen, but also for electricians who have not yet mastered the connection schemes of such chandeliers.

Before you start troubleshooting and repairing a chandelier with a control panel, you need to know its device and connection diagram.

Device and diagram of a chandelier with a control panel

Chandeliers with a remote control can only be with incandescent lamps, they can only be with halogen lamps, they can only be with LED lamps, or they can be combined.

In my example, just the same combined chandelier with halogen lamps and LED lighting is presented.

This is what it looked like when it was brought to me.

Looking at such a knot of wires and blocks, there is no desire to understand further, as in principle, and did the electrician, who was originally invited to troubleshoot. He simply took off the chandelier, took his hard-earned 200 rubles and recommended looking for another electrician to repair this chandelier.

But there is nothing supernatural in the scheme. It is only at first glance that such an impression is created, but believe me, everything is not so difficult.

So let's go in order.

Of the whole variety of radio-controlled chandeliers, their device consists of the following modules of the same type:

• radio control unit (controller complete with remote control)
• block of halogen lamps
• block of led lamps

Consider the purpose of each block separately.

A chandelier radio control unit or controller - in fact, this is a wireless switch that can be controlled using a control panel (RC) or using a conventional single-gang switch. This radio control unit is also called a switch, which means "switch" in English.

The chandelier in question is equipped with a radio-controlled Wireless Switch type Y-7E.

Specifications of the Wireless Switch Y-7E Controller:

• supply voltage 200-240 (V)
• number of output channels - 3
• output channel voltage 200-240 (V)
• the power of each channel is not more than 1000 (W) when connecting incandescent lamps or halogen lamps
• the power of each channel is not more than 200 (W) when energy-saving lamps are connected
• range of the control panel - 8 (m)

The connection diagram of the Wireless Switch Y-7E controller is shown on its case.

The controller is powered through a single-key switch (in the diagram it is marked with the letter K) as follows:

• phase (L) is connected to the red output (Red wire)
• zero (N) is connected to the black output (Black wire)

For clarity and a better understanding of the connection diagram of a chandelier with a control panel, I will lay it out sequentially in the form of fragments.

Here is a fragment of the power supply circuit of the Y-7E controller through a one-button switch.

For those who have forgotten how the one-button switch is connected -.

The Y-7E Wireless Switch Controller has three output channels with the following wire markings:

• phase of the first channel - brown output (Brown wire)
• phase of the second channel - white output (White wire)
• phase of the third channel - blue output (Blue wire)
• common zero - black output (Black wire)

The remaining one white conductor is the signal receiver antenna from the control panel (PU). It doesn't need to be connected anywhere.

A fragment of the Y-7E controller connection diagram without a connected load.

As you can see, the supply zero (N) and the common zero at the controller output (N) have the same wire color. This is due to the fact that this conductor is single and it does not break in the controller - these two conductors are soldered to one terminal. In principle, they can be interchanged.

And here is the appearance of the Y-7E controller board, but we will return to it later.

As I said just above, our controller has three output channels, which means that three independent lighting groups can be connected to it. In our chandelier it is:

• 1st group of halogen lamps
• 2nd group of halogen lamps
• LEDs (backlight)

Yes, by the way, in addition to three-channel controllers, there are: single-channel, two-channel and even four-channel. The meaning is the same, the difference is only in the number of output channels and the controller control algorithm, so I will not consider them separately.

We figured out the output channels, now let's move on to the loads.

Block of halogen lamps

The block of halogen lamps consists of:

• power supply (transformer)
• halogen lamps

Here I will only point out that in our chandelier, Jindel GET-08 electronic transformers with a voltage of 220/12 (V) and a power of 160 (W) are used to power halogen lamps.

As a load, halogen lamps with a G4 base, with a power of 20 (W) in the amount of 6 pieces, are connected to the transformer. Each lamp is connected to the transformer terminals in parallel.

Attention! Never install higher power halogen lamps in the chandelier, otherwise the transformer will fail or the cartridges will melt.

Let's return to the next fragment of the scheme.

An electronic transformer for the 1st group of halogen lamps is connected to the first channel (Brown wire) of the controller.

The electronic transformer is made in accordance with the PUE:

• phase (input) - brown
• zero (input) - blue color

The output wires have the following colors:

• phase (output) - white
• zero (exit) - gray color

All wire connections in the chandelier are made using end insulated plugs (KIZ).

The plug is made of transparent nylon, through which you can see the depth of entry of the cores into the sleeve and the result obtained after crimping.

Then the resulting insulated connection is further insulated with a heat shrink tube, and the tip is tightened with a tie-clamp. It turns out a fairly reliable and high-quality connection.

An electronic transformer for the 2nd group of halogen lamps is connected to the second channel (White wire) of the controller.

The color marking of the wires here is similar to that of the first transformer.

Let me remind you that halogen lamps cannot be touched with bare hands on the bulb - only through a glove, napkin or rag, otherwise they will quickly fail.

LED block

And it remains to consider the connection diagram of the third channel at the chandelier.

In the chandelier under consideration, a simple LED driver Aled (Jindel Electric) GEL-11101 with a rectified output voltage of 3-3.2 (V) is used to power the LEDs.

The driver is connected to the third channel (Blue wire) of the controller.

The driver wire marking has the following colors:

• phase (input) - red
• zero (input) - red color
• "+" (exit) - black color
• "-" - White color

From 2 to 22 LEDs can be connected to the output of the GEL-11101 driver. In our case, 15 LEDs are connected, which smoothly change their color during operation.

All LEDs in a circuit are connected in series. Naturally, if at least one LED fails, the entire branch will not burn. So if your LED backlight in the chandelier has stopped burning, then first of all you need to start by checking the LEDs.

LEDs are very easy to change. They are simply inserted with their pins (legs) into the appropriate connector. The main thing is to observe the polarity when installing them.

Alternatively, a jumper can be installed instead of a burned-out LED. The driver allows you to work with fewer LEDs, but do not get too carried away with this, otherwise the life of the LEDs remaining in operation can be significantly reduced. The jumper can be used as a temporary solution to the problem.

Operating modes of a chandelier with a control panel

As I said at the beginning of the article, the chandelier can be controlled in two ways: using a remote control (like) and using a conventional one-button switch.

The chandelier control panel is programmed for a specific frequency and radio signal code, and can only work with the controller that came with the kit. Keep in mind that the remote control from another chandelier will not work for you, so if you lose the remote control, you will definitely have to buy another controller.

• button A
• button B
• button C
• button D

When button A is pressed, the first channel of the controller is switched on, i.e. the 1st group of halogen lamps will light up. Pressing button A again turns off the first channel. Similarly, with buttons B and C, only they control the second and third channels, respectively. But when you press the D button, all three channels are controlled at once.

If you control the chandelier with a single-key switch, then when the key is turned on for a short time, the first channel will turn on, when the key is turned off and then turned on, the algorithm will switch to turning on the second channel, etc., i.e. there is a sequential switching of the controller channels. And then the channel control cycle is repeated.

When the power is turned off for a long time, the controller algorithm is reset to its initial state.

In principle, if the batteries are dead in the remote control or you have lost it altogether, then it is quite possible to control the chandelier with a switch, although this is not very convenient.

Diagnostics and repair of a chandelier with a do-it-yourself control panel

We figured out the connection diagram of the chandelier with the control panel, and now we need to diagnose our malfunction.

Let me remind you that the chandelier in question does not turn on, either from the control panel or from the switch.

In principle, everything is simple. Since there is no radio control, it means that the controller (switch) falls under suspicion first of all. But you need to be 100% sure of this. Therefore, I decided to exclude it from the circuit and connect all three lighting groups directly to a 220 (V) network in order to check the health of the electronic transformers for halogen lamps and the LED backlight driver.

To do this, I put together the following diagram.

As temporary connections, I applied .

We turn on the machine and look. All lamps should light up, provided they are good and their power supplies are good. As you can see, in my case, all the lamps are on, with the exception of a couple of halogen bulbs.

I will immediately replace the burned-out halogens with halogens with similar parameters: G4 base, voltage 12 (V), power 20 (W) from the Navigator.

From here we draw the obvious conclusion that the cause of the malfunction in the chandelier was found - the Y-7E switch failed.

During an external examination of the Y-7E board, I did not see burnt and charred elements.

Only now I noticed some kind of “track” on the MKR-X2 capacitor, but most likely the factory varnish was so casually dripped.

By the way, the controller is powered in a transformerless way according to a circuit with a quenching capacitor, i.e. the following are connected in series to the 220 (V) network: a capacitor MKR-X2, a diode bridge, a zener diode and a load. The excess voltage of the network “falls” on the capacitor, and at the output of the diode bridge the voltage is already about 12-13 (V) DC. The signal receiver is powered from a source 5 (V), which is converted from a voltage of 12 (V).

Relay coils (blue blocks) are connected to voltage 12 (V), the contacts of which switch the load of output channels.

As you can see, the relay contacts are rated for current up to 10 (A) at a voltage of 240 (V), although in the technical specifications the channel power is limited to 1000 (W) or 4.5 (A) current, i.e. even there is still some stock.

The article has already come out quite voluminous, so I will tell you about troubleshooting and repairing the Y-7E controller another time - subscribe to the newsletter so as not to miss the release of new and interesting articles.

Now you need to purchase a controller similar in power and number of channels, connect it accordingly and check its operation.

My friend bought a Sneha B-837 controller. It is quite suitable in terms of power and number of channels. Its cost was 535 rubles (as of the date of writing the article).

Similar devices can be purchased at lower prices, for example, on well-known Chinese sites such as AliExpress.

If there is no urgent need for a controller, then for a while the chandelier can be left connected directly from a single-gang switch without a controller.

The kit even comes with a stand for the remote control. It can be placed near the sofa or bed so that the remote control is not lost.

We connect the purchased controller according to the above scheme. The difference will be only in the colors of the wires of its output channels.

The Sneha B-837 controller has three output channels, which have the following wire markings:

• phase of the first channel - blue output (Blue)
• phase of the second channel - white output (White)
• phase of the third channel - yellow output (Yellow)
• common zero - black output (Black-Neutral Out)

I connected the wires of the controller with the wires of the chandelier using NShVI bushings with a cross section of 2.5 sq. mm. I inserted two conductors, pressed them with PKVk-6 press tongs, insulated them and you're done.

We check the performance of the chandelier, both from the control panel and from the switch key. Only instead of a key, I will switch with a two-pole machine.

The chandelier with remote control is working properly.

As you can see, there is nothing complicated in repairing a chandelier with a remote control. The main thing is to sequentially check the serviceability of all lamps, electronic transformers, power supplies and the radio control controller.

And already by tradition, watch the video based on the materials of this article:

At the end of the article, I would like to add that controllers with a control panel can be used not only as lighting control, but also for other loads, for example, remote control of blinds, curtains, cornices, gates and other electrical devices.

Addition. Watch the video where I replaced the transformer for halogen lamps at a similar chandelier:

P.S. That's all. I hope that this article will help you figure out how to connect and repair a chandelier with a remote control. Thank you for your attention.

During the renovation of the children's room, we decided to move away from traditional lighting and use modern lighting fixtures. An LED butterfly was hung in place of an ordinary chandelier, and local light sources from were placed on the sides of the room.
We liked the resulting design of the room: local lighting performed its tasks well above the schoolchild's workplace. And the children were delighted with the butterfly, which, from the remote control and even simple manipulations of the switch on the wall, created unusual lighting effects.

But after a year and a half, the chandelier stopped working: it was not controlled either from the switch or from the remote control. The warranty repair period of 12 months has already expired, and the seller from whom this miracle was bought is no longer selling. I had to look for the cause of the malfunction on my own.
To start . It is made according to the classical scheme for connecting a chandelier with two groups of lamps.

I had to remove the chandelier from the mounting bracket to access its terminal block. different from the old designs on the hook.

In the course of checking the condition of the circuit, there were no faults in the wiring:

• the working zero comes reliably (checked by connecting a table lamp to the phase of the socket and the zero terminal block of the chandelier);
• both phases are clearly switched by the switch keys (the glow was controlled by the light of an indicator screwdriver).

The difference between connecting an LED chandelier and a conventional chandelier is that for its operation it is enough to use only one switch key: all switching of groups of luminaires is carried out by the built-in controller. Therefore, the second failed phase is simply in reserve.
They began to inspect the internal structure, switching wires and equipment. To do this, I had to sit on a stool and place the chandelier on my knees so as not to damage its complex and possibly fragile structure of various glass parts.

The picture shows that on a two-story flat case, all control and switching elements are located on top. Wiring harnesses for four LED lamps pass through special plastic bushings inserted into the holes in the housing. In the same way, wires are connected to the garlands of LED assemblies.
The controller and control circuit box are firmly glued to the metal surface. The radio signal receiver antenna is made with a simple piece of white wire, which is securely insulated on all sides and simply lies on the surface.
To connect to external power, two wires come out of the controller:

• red - phase is applied to it;
• black - working zero.

An additional working zero with a separate black wire is displayed further into the circuit. The yellow-green protective PE conductor is connected on one side to the metal housing, and on the other side to the prepared terminal block.
Three wires come out of the controller into the chandelier circuit, forming separate control channels. They are made in different colors:

• orange;
• white;
• blue.

The remote control included in the chandelier kit works as a radio transmitter of command signals that are perceived by the controller receiver. The exchange of information takes place in a mode closed by various encryption methods so that in a multi-storey building it is impossible to turn on the lamps of a neighbor with your remote control.
Therefore, the console and controller are set at the factory to work together only. They are sold exclusively as a set.
Directly on the buttons of the remote control, the given commands are shown with symbols.

On the cover of the controller there is a diagram of its connection to the chandelier circuits and the main load characteristics are presented:

• power up to 1000 W;
• voltage 200÷240 volts;
• mains frequency 50 hertz.

We removed the cover from the controller case, analyzed its device.

The radio receiver board and the chandelier channel switches are clearly visible. The same picture is well traced from the reverse side.

Particular attention was paid to the soldering of outgoing wires. We needed these places for renovation in the future.
Further installation of the chandelier after the controller was simply inspected without disassembly. External manifestations of violation of wires, insulation, coloring were not revealed. Suspicion fell on the controller.
To check it safely in the working circuit, I had to:

• carefully place the chandelier on cushions of soft clothes, although you could just hang it by the mounting holes;
• put the controller board on a sheet of cardboard (dielectric) with the reverse side up;
• using an extension cord from the outlet, apply an additional conductor with a crocodile to a working zero on the black wire of the controller;
• connect the second wire with a crocodile to the red phase output of the controller and apply a phase to it;
• check the appearance of the phase potential on the outgoing wires of the channels using an indicator.

The phase did not arrive, although they tried several times to apply and remove voltage with an extension cable, and when the power was on, they pressed various buttons on the remote control.

There was no particular desire to look further for a malfunction in the electronic filling of the board.
The option of excluding the controller from operation by installing ordinary switches between the phase and outgoing channels was not considered, although it is technically easy to implement. After all, this eliminates the remote radio control. In addition, one backup wire from the switch to the chandelier is not enough. I'll have to pull another one.
We went to the store, bought a new controller along with the remote control. The price was quite affordable, not as high as expected. A set of purchased devices in the original packaging is shown in the photo.

All operational specifications of new and old devices coincided. They are shown right on the product packaging.

To compare the dimensions, the old remote control was placed on the packaging of the new one. No special differences are visible.

The controller and remote control were removed from the package. The battery was removed from the old remote control and installed in a new one, and the purchased one was left in reserve.
In order not to disturb the factory installation of internal switching in the chandelier, 4 outgoing wires were soldered from the terminals of the old controller and the ends of the new ones were soldered to them. They coincided not only in the purpose of the channels, but even in color. Checked very carefully before soldering.
The soldering points were insulated, and the new controller was installed in the old one, closed with a lid. It was decided to check the operation of the circuit at the installation site.
They brought the chandelier to the mounting plate, connected the power and protective wires, and fixed the structure to the ceiling.
When the switch was turned on and manipulated, the chandelier worked.

The same effects are received from the radio-controlled panel.

In this way, we managed to repair the LED chandelier with our own hands in a relatively short time by simply replacing the controller.

Remote lighting control is not a luxury, such systems are a vital necessity and are very convenient in concert halls, stadiums and other public auditoriums with large areas. Remote control saves you from long trips to switches. There are different principles of operation of these systems:

• infrared;
• in the range of radio waves;
• through mobile communication channels and the Internet.

Remote control chandelier

With the development of technology, equipment has become cheaper and more accessible to the average consumer. Therefore, more and more often, remote-controlled lighting systems are purchased, assembled and installed in apartments, individual houses. The process of connecting the remote control system is not difficult, but the details depend on many factors:

• in what range the system operates;
• what kind of lamps are used - incandescent, economical daylight, halogen or LED;
• distance to the chandelier and its location.

All this determines how to connect a chandelier with a remote control, based on local conditions. To understand the algorithm of actions, it is worth considering the easiest way to connect a remote-controlled chandelier in an apartment or private house.

Connecting a chandelier to a double switch

Fastening and connecting wires

The method of attaching the chandelier to the ceiling remains the same. The classic options include a hook or metal DIN rails that are screwed into the ceiling and the chandelier body is fixed on them. Each model comes with instructions on how to do this.

Hook for fixing the chandelier on the ceiling

Metal strips for fixing the chandelier

The difficulty in assembling a remote control system, connecting a chandelier, is where to install the controller. The controller is one of the most important elements of the remote control system; it receives signals sent from a remote control or a stationary switch and performs the switching specified by the signal for the set lighting mode. Options can be very different:

• the inclusion of individual groups of lamps on the chandelier;
• adjusting the brightness of the lighting;
• on the stationary remote control there are remote control search functions - the corresponding button is pressed and a signal is given that turns on a melody or tonal sound on the remote control, which greatly facilitates its search.

Usually the controller has small dimensions and easily fits under the decorative cap of the chandelier, which closes the wire connection block on the ceiling.

Installing the controller in the chandelier body

You can install the controller in the wall with a stationary switch or in another place, for this you will have to stretch wires from it to the chandelier and the stationary control panel.

In apartments for lighting, a double or triple switch is usually provided, the controller expands these possibilities.

Different models of controllers have differences in connection schemes. Each product is accompanied by an electrical diagram, sometimes even a pictographic drawing, which indicates the color of the wires and the connection points. It is recommended that you follow these instructions for assembly. In most cases, the controller has three contacts for connecting to the network - phase, zero and ground, and 2-4 contacts for separate groups of lamps that are connected to the phase wires of the chandelier (usually brown).

Single channel controller and remote control

All zero ends are connected by twisting into one contact, which is insulated with cambric, electrical tape or special plastic caps. Ground wires (yellow-green) are connected in the same way and fixed with the bolt provided for this on the chandelier body. If there is no such fastening, it is allowed to insulate the contact and not connect anywhere.

Multi-channel controller and remote control for chandelier

The installation of the controller and all electrical connections are made with a de-energized network in the premises of this building.

Connecting to the controller and console

Such chandeliers have more multifunctional controllers, they control not only the inclusion of individual groups of LEDs, the intensity of their luminous flux, but can operate in the mode of preset programs, provide color and music accompaniment. Groups with halogen lamps in the design of the chandelier provide the main lighting, while LEDs perform color and lighting effects.

It is best to buy chandeliers complete with remote control and not complicate your life. Now many manufacturers make such products, this will provide guarantees and detailed diagrams, instructions on how to connect a chandelier with a remote control.

You need to choose a model controlled by radio, unlike the infrared signal transmission channel, there is no need to direct the remote control towards the chandelier. The radio channel does not require line-of-sight conditions of the chandelier and various obstacles, walls or furniture do not matter, the range is much greater. Lighting can be controlled from anywhere in the house or yard. Some remotes work at a distance of up to 100 m.

Working in tandem with a receiver at the same frequency, the remote control transmits a signal to the controller, which sets the color and light effects according to the set program.

In most cases, the radio receiver and controller are one unit in a single housing.

Connection sequence

The lighting group is de-energized, the corresponding machine is turned off on the input device. The switch is dismantled, three wires will remain in the wall, a common one and two for groups of chandelier lamps. To determine the common wire, it is easiest to mark it before removing the switch, it is easy to identify it on the contacts. When the keys are switched, the remaining 2 contacts are closed to it.

For remote control systems where there is no base console, you can leave the switch in a permanently on position or remove it by shorting the common wire with one of the remaining two. Insulate all ends and close the box with a decorative lid or plaster.

It is advisable to mark the common wire on the ceiling when dismantling the old chandelier or determine it with a multimeter before removing the switch. The device is put into the mode of measuring alternating voltage to the scale limit above 220V. Control probes are connected to two of the three wires. Turning on the switch keys, you need to look between which wires voltage appears. If there is no voltage, then the remaining unconnected to the multimeter will be common.

Scheme for determining the common wire on the chandelier

There are several ways to determine the common wire. Instead of a multimeter, you can use a test lamp. An indicator screwdriver can be checked by the presence of a phase, when a phase is supplied from the switch to the lamps, when both keys of the switch are turned on on two wires, the indicator will light up. In general, an indicator screwdriver will not show anything. When the phase is connected to the common wire of the chandelier, the indicator will immediately show it, on the other two, the screwdriver indicator will not light.

After determining the common wires on the switch and the ceiling, the switch changes to a basic stationary console. It is necessary to supply 220 V power to it, for this it is necessary to dismantle the switch and separate the three wires in different directions.

Do all this with the network off. On the ceiling, at the point where the chandelier is connected, the common wire is connected to one of the two coming from the switch.

Next, the power is connected, the multimeter determines between which wires of the switch a voltage of 220V will appear. These two wires are connected to the L and N terminals of the fixed control panel, the remaining wire to the OUTPUT terminal.

Connection diagram for a fixed remote control

After that, the body of the stationary remote control is put in place of the switch.

Double and single wires on the ceiling are connected to the controller:

• zero to terminal N;
• phase to terminal L and a common wire of a group of lamps.

Scheme of connecting the chandelier to the controller

After assembling the circuit, all the lighting elements are screwed into the chandelier cartridges, then the power is connected, the operability of all modes is checked when lighting is controlled from the remote and stationary consoles. During normal operation, the voltage is turned off and the installation of the chandelier on the ceiling is completed.

Chandelier console. Video

The video below tells about the convenience of setting up and using the remote control for the chandelier.

From the above information, it follows that a remote-controlled chandelier of any model can be connected independently. But at the same time, you need to remember about security measures. For unclear questions, you should consult with experienced specialists.