Why don't potatoes sprout? How many days does it take for potatoes to sprout? Why does it take a long time for potatoes to sprout?

Important agrotechnical processes include preparing potatoes for planting. When a gardener ignores this stage of cultivation, he does not take into account the peculiarities of his climate zone, you have to wait a long time for the first shoots. It is worth taking urgent measures if after a month there are no signs of life on the soil surface. There are several important factors that determine how long it will take for potatoes to sprout. These include the gardener’s region of residence, the variety of tubers and, of course, rich life experience.

Temperature indicators

If after planting the potatoes the weather is warm and there are no night or morning frosts, then the first shoots will please the owner of the plot within three weeks. In order for the tubers to begin to germinate, the temperature around them should not be less than 10°C. The root crop does not begin to produce green shoots in cold soil; the movement of juices in it will slow down until the onset of warmth. Some potato tubers will freeze during this time or will be used for food first spring pests- bear or worms.

When the earth has not yet completely warmed up, but has already arrived, then you should not bury it too much. Optimal hole depth for proper cultivation- 5-6 cm. Even under the weak rays of the April sun, the soil will warm up to required temperature, and the first shoots will appear in 21-23 days.

Gardeners who plant potatoes in well-warmed soil do not wait long. After 10-14 days, the first leaves hatch between the furrows. When after cold winter stable warmth sets in quickly, many plot owners commit big mistake and begin boarding. The fact is that it takes a certain time for the soil to warm up from the sun’s rays:

• For northern regions- 2 months or more;
• for southern areas - 4-5 weeks.

Air humidity is of great importance. With a significant concentration of water vapor in the surrounding space, the earth will dry out for a long time. When the air is damp and humid, it is better to delay planting potatoes for several days. Otherwise the whole planting material, and with it the first shoots, will become a breeding ground for various types putrefactive bacteria.

Seed quality

You should not wait for early potato shoots if tubers have been planted different sizes and with low-quality sprouts.

What kind of seed material should be:

• each tuber has several large eyes;
• large potatoes, approximately the same size;
• the sprouts are thick, not very long;
• there are no damaged areas or traces of putrefactive processes on the tubers;
• Before planting, potatoes were treated with moderate doses of fungicides.

Each shoot is formed from an eye, so shoots will appear only if they are present. Even one “empty” tuber can ruin the harvest in the hole. Ungerminated seed will become a source of rot or mold. Small nodules will germinate only after 4-5 weeks, but the seedlings will be frail and non-viable. For landing experienced gardeners It is recommended to choose potatoes over 40-50 g. The quantity depends on how much the tubers weigh. collected in the summer harvest.

Even in the absence of visible damage, the seed can present unpleasant surprises after germination. It depends on how long the potatoes were stored and under what conditions. Tubers that have been overwintered in airtight bags or boxes are often unsuitable for planting. Seed material is carefully selected in the fall and stored separately from the main harvest. The place for containers should be dark and dry.

You cannot select tubers for planting in spring on a residual basis. In this case the potatoes will sprout only after 25-30 days, and the sprouts will be weak and overly elongated. A gardener should not expect a rich harvest from such seed.

Sprouts appear on time when all the rules for processing tubers before planting are followed. About a month before the onset of stable heat, the potatoes are sorted, inspected and substandard ones are discarded. Then the seed must be immersed in a solution of any fungicide.

How long does it take to soak:

• medium-sized potatoes - 10-15 minutes;
• large tubers - about half an hour.

Now the tubers need to be spread out in a dry place for ventilation and sprout formation. How long germination takes depends on the air temperature. For proper preparation seed should be provided at 12-15°C.

Only tubers with thick and powerful sprouts are lowered into the holes. The first shoots will sprout in 15-20 days. Potatoes with weak sprouts that look like fragile threads are best discarded. They simply will not be able to break through the soil even a month after the tubers are buried and will begin to rot, putting neighboring tubers at risk of damage.

Often, land owners make a big mistake before planting: they treat the tubers with highly concentrated solutions of pesticides. Toxic substances accumulate in the seed, it takes a very long time to germinate. Mole crickets will not eat such potatoes, but they are absolutely unsuitable for human food. Before using fungicides, it is necessary to dilute exactly the same as recommended in the instructions.

Tricks of gardeners

IN southern regions plot owners manage to plant and dig up potatoes twice with an interval of 50-60 days. Undoubtedly, a lot depends on the variety and air temperature. But some landing tricks also help. One of them is the application of fertilizers during soil preparation and during the growing process. After deepening the tubers, the soil should be watered with a solution of any complex fertilizer. This will provide the potatoes with what they need to grow. nutrients, and the first green shoots will appear in a couple of weeks.

Potatoes sprout faster when their eyes are facing up. As it grows, a powerful root system, and there will be few voids in the soil. This planting will speed up the germination of tubers by several days.

After deepening the tubers, the surface of the holes should be mulched with high-moor peat. This will avoid invasion harmful insects, great lovers of the first tender shoots. Mulch will better warm the ground, which is very favorable for early germination. After a few days, it is necessary to carry out the first loosening to ensure the tubers fresh air. After this, the sprouts will appear much faster, even thin and frail ones, initially unsuitable for planting, will sprout.

When a varietal mixture is used, potato germination may vary. Early species will germinate after 10-15 days, and later ones are characterized by longer formation of sprouts.

What average term emergence of seedlings:

• for southern regions - 10-14 days;
• for middle latitudes - 2-3 weeks;
• for northern regions - about a month.

How long should I wait for germination if germination time is significantly delayed? Experts say that if after 1.5 months of waiting green leaves do not appear, then you should not expect a harvest. The reason for this may be poor seed material or rotting tubers. The next time a landing is carried out, it is necessary to take into account all the errors.

After planting potatoes, there is no need to worry at first; we all know that potatoes take a long time to sprout, and we just need to wait. But when there are still no shoots, you involuntarily begin to worry: is everything okay? Our relatives had real case when the potatoes haven’t sprouted at all!

So, when should we expect potato sprouts to appear, why are they not friendly, and why did our relatives’ potatoes not sprout...

The dependence of the emergence of potato seedlings on soil temperature or When to plant potatoes?

Most main factor successful emergence of potato seedlings - soil temperature.

If the soil warms up at a depth of 10-12 cm to 7..8 degrees (in this case average daily temperature, as a rule, +8 garus) - you can start planting potatoes.

It’s clear that not all gardeners check the soil temperature with a thermometer in their hands. You can trust folk signs, or rather, natural conventional signs. For example, the time of flowering and blooming perennial plants.

When to plant potatoes? According to popular wisdom, we begin planting as soon as the leaves on the birch tree become the size of a penny coin.

Signs of soil warming and natural indicators for the start of sowing work - in THIS ARTICLE

When will potato shoots appear?

When the soil warms up to +10 degrees, potato shoots appear in 23-25 ​​days.

At a soil temperature of 18-20 degrees, seedlings will appear in 10-20 days. Sprouted potatoes sprout 6-10 days earlier.

If landing takes place in early dates- you shouldn’t bury the tubers, they will “sit” for a long time, the upper layers warm up faster, when planting shallow potatoes will rise faster.

When soil moisture is more than 75%, planting potatoes is not advisable; in such conditions, there is a high probability of tubers being damaged by putrefactive diseases.

Why are there uneven shoots?

There are several reasons for the appearance of uneven seedlings:

• Various planting depths. The soil warms up unevenly - and those tubers that are closer to the surface sprout earlier, those that lie deeper wait for warmer weather.

• Planting tubers of various sizes.

• Unevenly sprouted tubers, or not sprouted at all.

• Mix of varieties different periods maturation, with various periods of rest. You've probably noticed that each variety behaves differently during storage. Much depends on the rest period. Those varieties in which it is short are in no way intended for long-term storage, only for processing (for example, for chips). But there are also well-stored varieties - their dormant period is quite long. If you have a mixture of varieties, it is quite possible that seedlings will appear at different times.

Can potatoes not sprout at all?

Quite, our relatives had one like this bad experience.

And the whole point turned out to be improper storage of planting material. The planting potatoes were stored in the cellar, as always, but... they were not poured out of white synthetic bags. So she stood in them until spring.

Everything seemed to be fine, the potatoes were planted, but there were no sprouts. Such negligence cost a lot of money and nerves; at the beginning of summer I had to look for new potatoes and plant them again. But now we all have a lesson - we try not to leave potatoes in white bags even for a short time and always remember this incident.

Caring for potatoes after planting: detailed instructions HERE

I wish you success!

domikru.net

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7dach.ru

Why don't potatoes sprout?

For many rural residents and summer residents, the issue of planting potatoes is always relevant. Growing potatoes is labor-intensive, but very important and necessary. However, more and more often, villagers are faced with the problem of germination and are looking for an answer to the question of why potatoes do not sprout. There may be several reasons, but it is still worth considering that the yield is determined by the seeds.

So, one of the main reasons for the lack of seedlings is poor quality planting material. Sometimes there are no eyes on potatoes, in which case there is nothing for the stems to develop from. In addition, the lack of seedlings may be a consequence of improper storage. seed material(for example, frozen tubers).

Another important factor that affects the germination of potatoes is extreme heat. Therefore, having missed the time for April planting, it is sometimes useless to plant tubers in May. In the central regions of our country, air temperatures often reach 30 degrees in May, which has a detrimental effect on potatoes, which cannot develop in such conditions. Therefore, seedlings do not appear until the rains. Sometimes regular watering can save the situation.

Among other reasons, experts cite planting in unheated soil and the presence of pests in the garden. The same mole cricket can gnaw the sprouts on the tubers, and the potatoes will not sprout.

pomidorchik.com.ua

How to plant potatoes - watering, germination, planting methods

Potatoes are the seemingly easiest to grow, traditional, unpretentious root crop. It is not a fussy plant. Grows everywhere under any conditions. However, this vegetable is not as simple as it might seem at first acquaintance. Let's talk about how to plant potatoes, since certain requirements when growing them must be observed, especially if you want to get good harvest. The formation of the future harvest must begin with planting.

When to plant potatoes

To get really big harvest You need to plant potatoes on time. Timely landing- first, very important condition. It’s time to start planting as soon as the soil has matured.

How to determine whether the soil is ripe for planting potatoes? “Ripe” soil crumbles well, does not stick together in a lump when squeezed by hand, and is heated to +7°C to a depth of 10 cm (you can check it with a regular outdoor thermometer). In this case, the air temperature (average daily) should be at least +10°C, which usually in Kuban coincides with the last ten days of March, and in middle lane from the first ten days of May.

In 2017 lunar calendar the most lucky days for planting potatoes in Kuban on March 26-27. If you are unlucky with the weather on these days, then the days of the first ten days of April are also suitable (except for April 5 and 6 - these are unfavorable days).

Beginning gardeners often hesitate to plant potatoes, fearing return frosts. But newly planted potatoes are not afraid of frost. Because even if in April (in Kuban) nighttime temperature drops to -2-4°C are possible, by the time shoots appear, frosts no longer occur. If a strong cold snap is still expected, then in the event of such a weather anomaly, it is enough to cover the plantings with film or covering material (spunbond, lutrasil, etc.), or hill up the potato seedlings completely.

On the other hand, late planting is fraught with many troubles. By the end of spring and beginning of summer, especially if the spring was dry or the winter had little snow, the soil catastrophically loses its moisture reserves. Therefore, potatoes planted late will grow small and there will be few of them due to lack of moisture.

The reasons may be different, but the main one is planting seeds with white sprouts that grew in the basement during storage. If you plant tubers with white sprouts, then get ready for them to sprout twice as slow.

The second reason for low germination is simple poor sorting of planting material. The seeds must be selected. Planting potatoes that are spoiled, slightly rotten, too “sluggish” or with thin sprouts is useless, even harmful - thus, it is very easy to introduce an infection into the soil that can destroy the entire harvest not only this year.

If you nevertheless decide to plant potatoes with sprouts that sprouted during storage, then hold them in the light so that the white sprouts become stronger and turn green.

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To water or not

Many people ask the question: do potatoes need to be watered? How many times does this need to be done during the growing season? Most dry hot weather harmful early varieties potatoes. Drought may cause few tubers to be produced. If dry weather persists for a long time, the outer tissues of potato tubers stop growing. Root crops remain small and stop growing. If, after a long drought, heavy rains begin, the tubers begin to grow intensively from the inside, which leads to cracking of the roots.

The greatest need for moisture in potatoes occurs during the formation of buds and flowering. If the summer is dry, then the potato plantings can be watered twice so that the stolons begin to actively form tubers.

Larger tubers are selected for planting. They sprout earlier, form a powerful bush, and the root crops ripen three weeks earlier, and their size will be large.

How does seed selection occur? early potatoes for landing? To avoid planting sick or damaged tubers, it is recommended to wash them with water. room temperature, dry well outdoors. Next, carefully examine and discard soft, disease-affected, cracked tubers.

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Germination of seed potatoes

Pre-germination accelerates the formation of seedlings, gives good growth early potatoes. To do this, at the beginning of spring, approximately 4-6 weeks before planting, potatoes should be taken out of storage (cellar) and germinated diffused light at a temperature of +16…20°C. With more high temperature the tubers will begin to germinate faster. If the room has dry air, it is necessary to spray the tubers with water daily. For better germination, they can be treated with a solution of potassium humate (in a proportion of 3 g per 1 liter of water).

Green tubers are preserved very well in spring. To do this, they need to be kept in the light for several days, and then stored at a temperature of +4...6°C until planting.

You can add a little well-rotted humus (compost) and a handful of ash to the bottom of the hole. Mix the humus and ash well, fluff up the soil in the hole, plant the potatoes to a depth of 8 cm. If the tubers are large, you can plant them deeper, but the layer of soil above the tuber should not be more than 5 cm. Do not add manure to the hole!

You can plant potatoes in a furrow “under a shovel”. But for this it is necessary to have homogeneous seed material, as well as to accurately determine the planting depth, which depends on the degree of heating of the earth and the size of the tubers. This planting method is described in detail here.

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How to plant potato sprouts

Is it possible to get a good potato harvest from parts of the seed? Can. Cut off a third of the potato (the top with the “eyes”), dust the cut with ash, stack the potatoes in layers, cut side down, in a vegetable drawer. If the room is heated and the air is not dry, the sprouts will develop well and actively. Cuts should be planted smaller than whole potatoes in warmer soil. Find out more about how to plant potatoes with eyes here. And about growing potatoes from sprouts - here.

First you need to prepare the combs. Using a hoe, we make grooves 10 cm deep. The soil must first be dug up or plowed. A layer of humus or compost is poured along the entire length of the furrows (layer height 8 cm). Ash is poured on top of the humus. We have a shallow groove.

The next step is to fill this furrow with soil - we get, as it were, a “bed” for the seed material. Now you need to lay out the tubers on this “bed”. And then we raise 10 cm high ridges on both sides so that the mounds on both sides of the “bed” resemble the letter “M” in cross-section. Our potatoes lie between the ridges, in the recess of the letter “M”.

It’s very convenient to hill up the potatoes later: you raked the mounds closer to the middle and that’s it. In addition, potatoes in the soil are initially at a minimum depth, so they warm up well and germinate faster. The mounds of soil on both sides retain moisture well, and potatoes really need it during hilling, when they bloom and form tubers. Accordingly, we get a larger harvest.

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How to plant in a ditch or trench

This method of planting potatoes is quite labor-intensive, as it requires significant preliminary preparation. Trenches or ditches are prepared in advance, in the fall, after digging or plowing the ground. Depending on your capabilities, ditches or trenches can be dug manually with a shovel or walk-behind tractor. The distance between the trenches is 70 cm. Then the trenches or ditches are filled with plant debris - grass, straw. You can spill them with a solution of the Baikal EM drug, which contains living microorganisms that facilitate faster processing of plant residues into valuable biofertilizer. Placing potatoes on such a “cushion” helps increase the yield by at least 30%.

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How to plant in container beds

Gardeners who have tried this planting method claim that the yield doubles. But you will also have to work hard, especially at the beginning. The most time-consuming part of this method is installing the container boxes. They can be made from different materials. It all depends on your material and physical capabilities. Some people make such container beds from brick, some from slate, and some from boards. The height of the beds is at least 30 cm. Such beds must be prepared in advance - in the fall. Container beds are first filled with organic matter - plant residues - mown grass, thin branches. This layer should occupy at least 50% of the height - it should be taken into account that it will become thinner over the winter. Then a layer (5-10 cm) of rotted manure is poured on top of all this, a layer of compost is 10-15 cm. The very last layer is ordinary garden soil. From above, everything is generously watered with a solution of Baikal EM and the resulting bed is left like that for the winter. In the spring, if necessary, a mixture of soil and compost is added on top. So complicated preparatory work you will do it once in 4-5 years - you will only need to add compost on top annually. For so long it will be possible to successfully use such a bed not only for planting potatoes.

The scheme for planting potatoes in such a container ridge is a checkerboard pattern. The distance between potatoes is about 30 cm.

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How to plant under black film or non-woven cover

Nowadays it is becoming more and more popular among gardeners. non-woven material black, but black film is also often used. It is most often used to protect beds from weeds, as well as to warm up the soil more quickly in early spring. But now we will consider interesting way growing potatoes under black cover. First, you need to dig up the future bed well, picking out all the weed roots if possible. Then cover the ground with a black cover, securing the edges so that it does not blow away. Then cross-shaped cuts are made in the film or shelter. The distance between them is small - 15-20 cm. The order of arrangement is checkerboard. When you make cuts, be guided by the size of your small scoop - it should be convenient for them to remove some of the soil through the cut holes. So, use a scoop to scoop out the soil through the cuts so that under the film or shelter you get a hole 10 cm deep. The prepared seed potatoes are placed in this hole. The hole is carefully filled in, and the edges of the cuts are slammed down on top with the palm of your hand - there is no need to secure them. That's it, the potatoes are planted. There is no need to water it, nor do you need to hill it. With this planting method, the potato harvest ripens a month earlier. Two or three weeks after flowering, you can cut (mow) the tops, raise the shelter, and collect a rich harvest almost from the surface of the earth.

This method is similar to another - growing potatoes under straw. Only here a 15-20 centimeter layer of straw will serve as shelter.

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How to plant in a barrel

If you are a lover of garden experiments and, I would say, an adventurer, then this method will inspire you. I think it’s not difficult to find an old, rusty, useless barrel from an avid gardener. An old tall barrel without a bottom is just what you need. It is better if it has holes rusted through on the side. This is even better, since if they are not there, then you will have to “punch” the walls yourself so that the soil inside can breathe and excess moisture can find a place to drain. Place various small branches and planks on the bottom of the barrel. On top of this thick layer(about 30 cm) of compost, and a few potatoes on top. The number of tubers depends on the diameter of the barrel. Cover the potatoes with a ten-centimeter layer of soil. As soon as the first shoots appear, you again place several tubers, again on top of 10 cm of soil. Do this several times. The number of layers depends on the height of the barrel. It is recommended that the total height of all layers does not exceed 1 meter. I read that if a barrel has a volume of 1 m3, then you can get a harvest the size of a bag. The most important thing is not to allow the sprouts to form lush greenery, otherwise the plant will spend all its energy on leaves, and not on roots and tubers.

Spring planting is over, you can relax a little. How many days does it take for potatoes to sprout? What needs to be done to speed up the process?

Old-timers say that potatoes “pop out” after 21 days. In fact, this does not always happen.

Landing rules: terms and conditions. The planting time varies in each region. Climate features influence. In central and northern regions Frosts and even light snowfall are possible until mid-May. Mostly planting is done from the last week of April until mid-May. It is best to plant potatoes when the outside temperature reaches +7–10 degrees. The earth should warm up to + 8 degrees. The first leaves can be observed after 25 days. When the soil warms up to +20, the germination period will be reduced by 7–10 days. The way potatoes germinate is also affected by:

• quality of seed material. Seeds should be germinated at a temperature level of 10–12 degrees for 14–20 days. Avoid exposure to direct sunlight. The sprouts should be dense, swollen, and small. If these pre-germination conditions are met, the potatoes will sprout a week earlier.
• planting depth. It is important to remember when planting the depth of the hole. It should be no more than 10 cm. Heavily buried potatoes will “sit” in the ground for a long time.
• soil moisture percentage. Maximum indicator 75%. Otherwise, the formation of fungus on tubers will not only increase the time, but can also completely destroy the entire crop.
• variety vegetable crop. “Jumps out” faster.

"Tricks" to speed up the process. If you need to get more early harvest by the end of July, then potassium and phosphorus should be added to the soil. A month before planting, the seeds must be germinated. For an early harvest it is better to take early and mid-early varieties. Be sure to spray the seeds every 7 days copper sulfate(2 grams per 10 liters of water) or boric acid(50 grams per bucket of water). If they are absent, you can treat them with potassium permanganate (10 grams per 10 liters). Seed material is planted in the ground on April 25–28. Several small potatoes are placed in the hole. You can cut large tubers, making sure to leave 2-3 “eyes”. Cutting knives must be treated with potassium permanganate.

To prevent possible frosts, the plot of land is insulated. An air “cushion” is created under the straw, a layer of sawdust, and humus. It not only saves from temperature changes, but also accelerates the plant growth process. Some gardeners use ready-made covering material for these purposes.

The most in a simple way Heavy watering of the area is considered to speed up seed germination warm water every evening. When water freezes, it releases heat, which is what has a beneficial effect on potato growth.

Simply sprinkling the first shoots with a layer of soil (3–4 cm) will also help. In the future, these “mounds” do not need to be leveled.

A month after planting, it is necessary to feed the young plants with ammonium sulfate (25 grams per 1 square meter) or urea (12 grams per 1 square meter).

The second feeding with potassium (50 grams per 10 liters of water) should be carried out during the budding period.

Why are the shoots uneven? The “friendly” appearance of the first shoots is influenced by several aspects:

• planting depth level. The upper layers of the earth are heated more strongly; the deeper the seed material sits, the more time it takes to break through to the surface.
• tuber size at planting. The larger the planting material, the longer it takes for germination.
• mixing varieties. Each variety has its own characteristics. The early ones “break through” faster, but are very susceptible. If at winter storage was violated temperature regime, possibly long and poor-quality ripening.

Collect excellent harvest You can grow potatoes in the fall without much effort. It is necessary to approach competently and methodically preparatory process and follow the recommendations when planting. Grow potatoes for health!

Relatively unpretentious potatoes are grown everywhere. Unlike most garden crops, the process of development of a potato bush is invisible until seedlings appear. All the rules are followed, the tubers are planted on time, and the seedlings are not in a hurry.

Potato sprouts do not break through quickly; first, the root system of the bush is formed, only after that green shoots begin to break through to the surface of the bed.

After planting, a potato bush begins to form from seedlings or dormant eyes. How soon the seedlings appear depends on many reasons; experienced summer residents will confirm that the timing of the emergence of seedlings is most influenced by 2 factors:

1. Correct assessment of the weather situation and choice of timing for planting potatoes.
2. Use of high-quality seed material and additional pre-planting preparation of seed tubers.

hope for warm weather and plant potatoes “early and quickly” directly from the cellar - the right way get weak late shoots with “bald spots” and a very dubious return of tubers from the garden in the fall.

How soon do potatoes sprout after planting?

You can wait a very long time for the first shoots in a potato bed or not at all. Region of residence, characteristics of the variety, compliance with the rules of agricultural technology, experience of the summer resident - many factors determine the duration of this time.

Some vegetable growers mistakenly believe that the onset of stable warmth after winter is the right time to plant potatoes. However, Sun rays warm the soil after a certain time:

• in the southern regions - from 4 to 5 weeks;
• in the northern regions - 2 months or more.

For potato tubers to begin to germinate, the soil temperature must be at least 10°C. From a botanical point of view, a potato tuber is a modified plant stem. In cold soil, the circulation of juices slows down, negative temperatures lead to rot.

Hint: if planting time is running out, and the soil has not yet warmed up to the required 10°C, holes or furrows for tubers should be made 5-6 cm deep. After the emergence of seedlings, the first hilling compensates for shallow planting.

In addition to temperature, air humidity also influences the time it takes for a bed to be ready for planting. After winter, the soil is oversaturated with water - until the excess moisture evaporates or goes deeper, potatoes cannot be planted.

How quickly the water drains depends on the presence of sand or clay in the soil.

1. Sandy soils dry out faster. Water does not linger - it erodes or goes deeper.
2. Fertile loams retain moisture well. Such a bed requires additional time: approximately 1 week compared to sandy soils.

A heated bed with well-structured soil is covered with friendly shoots in 20-25 days.

In addition to objective weather factors, the timing of emergence of seedlings is influenced by preliminary preparation tubers. Experienced summer resident will take care of vernalization of the seed: warming and germination of tubers will be carried out in accordance with the growing season of a particular variety.

1. Early potato varieties “awaken” faster and form sprouts within 15-20 days.
2. Potato varieties late date maturation have a slightly slower metabolism and form shoots of 1-2 cm 20-25 days after the start of vernalization.

In the process of germinating tubers, you should focus only on the condition of the sprouts; it is undesirable to allow them to grow more than 4-5 cm. During planting, fragile long sprouts break and form roots worse.

The average time for emergence of seedlings after planting is calculated:

• southern regions - 10-15 days;
• middle latitudes - 2-3 weeks;
• northwestern region - 3-4 weeks.

Directly from the cellar or vernalized - any potato germinates within the period of 3-4 weeks prescribed by nature. During germination, the sprouts feed on the reserves of the mother tuber; due to this method of agricultural technology, the period of emergence of seedlings is shifted.

An important trend has been noted - the warmer the bed, the faster the seedlings appear. Warming the soil to 18°C ​​reduces the duration of seedling emergence by 1 week. Pre-germination of tubers gives approximately the same effect - minus 6-10 days compared to unsprouted potatoes.

If seedlings have not appeared within 4-5 weeks, urgent measures must be taken.

Technology for planting potatoes in open ground and its impact on the timing of emergence

Depending on climatic and soil conditions, potatoes personal plots open ground grow different ways: from traditional, “grandfather’s”, to special ones - for straw, according to Mittleider and others.

The traditional method is “under the shovel”

Planting potatoes with whole or cut tubers to a depth of 10-12 cm in holes has been practiced by summer residents to the point of automaticity: one digs, the other throws. A simple method proven by generations of experience gives excellent results with careful care and favorable weather conditions.

The start of planting work can be hampered by a prolonged spring - cold and damp, when the soil does not have time to warm up and ripen, this delays the time of planting.

If the tubers are set for vernalization, the sprouts overgrow, which leads to a deterioration in germination and productivity of the bed as a whole.

Planting tubers without prior germination (directly from the cellar) delays the emergence of seedlings by up to 4 weeks.

"Dutch" technology

It turned out that the progressive “Dutch” method of planting in ridges had long been used, without knowing it, by residents of the northern regions. The soil raised to the “ridge” warms up well even under the mild northern sun. Wide row spacing and big square the lateral surface of the “ridge” is created favorable conditions by soil temperature and ventilation, which allows earlier planting and seedling dates to be used, even by 1-2 weeks.

Compared to a conventional garden bed, the use of " Dutch technology» not only shifts the timing, but also gives a significant increase in the harvest due to more full use natural resources- light, heat, water.

A method for the lazy - under straw

The currently popular method of growing tubers under straw has many advantages, the main ones:

• labor costs are kept to a minimum - there is no need to dig, loosen, or hill;
• no weeding is needed - weeds do not grow through the mulch layer;
• Tubers can be selected as they grow without damaging the roots of the plant.

Spread the tubers on the garden bed and sprinkle with a layer of straw - anyone can do this. For everything to be successful, the following conditions must be met:

• warm, moist soil;
• vernalized potatoes;
• straw or mown grass, layer thickness - at least 10 cm.

Compliance with the first point is mandatory. Tubers may not germinate at all, since a thick layer of mulch serves as a thermal insulator - protecting the soil from heating.

The time for “planting” potatoes under straw is delayed by 1-2 weeks compared to traditional way“under the shovel” plantings. Green potato leaves on a straw bed and a regular bed will appear at the same time. The difference in planting time will not be noticeable, since a favorable microclimate is created under the mulch layer.

Trying new potatoes as soon as possible is the understandable desire of every summer resident. It is quite possible to get early shoots, and therefore an early harvest of tubers in a small garden bed.

The easiest way is to cover the bed with film or agrofibre immediately after planting. You can use any film - black or transparent. A greenhouse effect is created under the film, the bed quickly heats up, and the shelter does not allow the soil to cool down overnight. How long it takes for seedlings to appear depends on the following factors: within 1 week (vernalized tubers) or 2 weeks (without germination).

For this purpose, it is convenient to plant a separate double row and install a simple shelter on arches above it. In greenhouse conditions, potatoes can grow until summer weather sets in.

Uneven shoots - what is the reason?

“Bald spots” in a potato bed can most often be observed after planting non-vernalized tubers. Bought at the market from an “unidentified person”, donated by “ good neighbors", potatoes brought from a chain store may not sprout for various reasons:

• illness;
• eyes damaged by frost due to improper storage;
• To preserve the goods, the trading network treats vegetables with special reagents that inhibit the germination process;
• seed material is collected according to the principle “from one source to another” - tubers different varieties, unequal in size;
• planting was carried out at different depths.

The conclusions are obvious - seed tubers should be purchased only from a trusted seller, stored in proper conditions and agricultural practices should be followed.

Potatoes did not rise - error analysis

Mistakes made during landing can lead to problems.

Poor quality planting material

If there is no confidence in the quality of the seed tubers, planting should be carried out only after germination. If the eyes do not “wake up” within 1 week of vernalization, there is a high probability that it is useless to expect sprouts. It is urgent to look for a replacement: healthy tubers without damage from frost or disease.

Boarding too early

Sprouted potatoes are difficult to tolerate low temperatures. Sprouts rot under the influence of frost, attracting underground living creatures - mole crickets, larvae chafer and others.

Insects after hibernation They are unusually voracious and capable of destroying the entire plantation even before germination.

Planting in cold soil inhibits the movement of juices and the development of sprouts. Temperatures up to 10°C are not conducive to the development of potato bushes, but are quite favorable for colonies of fungi, viruses and microorganisms. A tuber affected by disease stops growing or grows weak.

In any case, even when the reason for the “non-germination” is beyond doubt, you should dig up the nest and make sure your guesses are correct or incorrect in order to draw conclusions for the future.

100% potato germination is real

Experienced summer residents know how to achieve maximum germination of planted tubers and thereby increase the productivity of the potato bed.

1. Compliance with the rules of crop rotation reduces the risk of potato diseases at the stage of bush formation.
2. Preparing the bed in the fall guarantees structured, nutritious soil by the time the tubers are planted.
3. Seed material must be germinated.
4. During vernalization, it is useful to treat tubers with a solution of complex fertilizers by spraying.
5. On the eve of planting, it is advisable to treat the tubers with a growth stimulator. This speeds up metabolism and increases productivity.
6. A cut tuber sprouts much faster. The amount of seed increases. A cut tuber produces a stress hormone, which triggers the mechanism of root formation and regeneration.

With minimal financial investments and time-consuming, these recommendations will help achieve 100% germination of potatoes in the garden.

Conclusion

Relatively unpretentious culture in the bush phase, potatoes are very sensitive to external conditions at the beginning, when a new plant is formed from the awakened eye. The problem of germination of planted tubers will not be a concern if you follow all the rules for the procurement of seed material, pre-planting preparation and observe the planting deadlines. Small tricks will help reduce the waiting period for seedlings by a few more days.

For many rural residents and summer residents, the issue of planting potatoes is always relevant. Growing potatoes is labor-intensive, but very important and necessary. However, more and more often, villagers are faced with the problem of germination and are looking for an answer to the question of why potatoes do not sprout. There may be several reasons, but it is still worth considering that the yield is determined by the seeds.

So, one of the main reasons for the lack of seedlings is poor quality planting material. Sometimes there are no eyes on potatoes, in which case there is nothing for the stems to develop from. In addition, the lack of seedlings may be a consequence of improper storage of seed material (for example, frozen tubers).

Another important factor that affects the germination of potatoes is extreme heat. Therefore, having missed the time for April planting, it is sometimes useless to plant tubers in May. In the central regions of our country, air temperatures often reach 30 degrees in May, which has a detrimental effect on potatoes, which cannot develop in such conditions. Therefore, seedlings do not appear until the rains. Sometimes regular watering can save the situation.

Among other reasons, experts cite planting in unheated soil and the presence of pests in the garden. The same mole cricket can gnaw the sprouts on the tubers, and the potatoes will not sprout.