Railway station kozlova notch, Tula region. Station-museum "Kozlova Zaseka", Tula region: description, history and interesting facts

Yasnaya Polyana… I was looking forward to meeting her with trepidation. It's just that, oddly enough, Tolstoy's "War and Peace" is one of my three favorite books (I can add "In the Woods" and "On the Mountains" by Andrei Pechersky, and four books by James Harriot to this list). Of course, other favorite books appear from time to time, but this “trinity” is time-tested. Periodically, I take them out of the closet and reread them, although I no longer just know the plot, but I can quote.

Therefore, I have a special attitude towards Lev Nikolayevich. Probably for this reason I never stopped by Yasnaya Polyana on the way. And now, finally, I see her. But as they say, man proposes, but God disposes.
Yasnaya Polyana was to be the biggest disappointment of the Tula trip.

We go to the checkout.

And here is the first disappointment. They explained to us that if we want a tour, either wait for 10 more people (judging by the number of people around, these are two more people, the wait could drag on for an indefinite time), or pay 3,750 rubles, which is even for four (considering that three from the same family) too much.
To be honest, this approach to individuals in our museums has always “killed” me: the feeling that you must definitely go with a tour, and if not, then there is no tour, because an individual very often costs “sky-high” money and is not a fact, that you can get it done. At the same time, this is more a rule of our museums than an exception to it. For me, it’s better to set a specific time for excursions than to conduct such “educational” work.
But there is nothing to do, we just take tickets, we go for a walk. Fortunately, there is a son who already went with the class to Yasnaya Polyana, but, as it turned out later, very little was left in his head after this trip (although, remembering myself already at the institute, I can say the same about myself: on such trips communication comes first, and everything else is just “decoration”).

Let's go for a walk in the park. If you put your hand on your heart, an ordinary Central Russian park, if there weren’t Tolstoy’s name here, I wouldn’t go a second time for sure, everything is too simple. This is not Konstantinovo, where I agree to go not for Yesenin, but simply for stunning views. But the park still has its own charm.

Gradually we approach the bath. It is closed, so we look inside the "holes". I encountered such “closeness” of objects everywhere in Yasnaya Polyana. Very disappointing.

But living creatures "do not close."

Bullfinches.

Squirrel.

Children, they are children of cats too.

We found a greenhouse, went in, wandered around. As it turned out, we were lucky - after us, some woman closed the gate, so the “closeness” continued.

And lemons grow in such greenhouses.

Farewell look at the garden.

And we gradually approached Tolstoy's house.

Near the house there are several wooden buildings.

Well, the entrance to the museum is located behind the gate.

I have never seen such museum shoe covers.

The true owners of the estate.

It was also impossible to shoot inside the house. So that's the only photo.

What I liked about this part of the museum was the drawings with the heroes of War and Peace. It is interesting to guess: here is Natasha Rostova, this is Pierre, and this is Maria Bolkonskaya. For the rest, well, somehow. Then the path lay not Tolstoy's grave.

On the way we saw Riga,

And here is such a "beautiful".

Tolstoy's grave. Simple, good, without monuments, as the writer wanted. That's the way it should be... without pomp.

We went back through the coachman's house. Vitya and Lyovka decided to look inside through the windows, so they were sent, in the truest sense of the word.

Corral with horses.

General impression of Yasnaya Polyana

The estate itself is huge, relatively well-groomed. But for the rest ... It reminds me of all of "Koshchei over gold": it's closed there, don't go there, don't look here. And there is no spirit of that time. And the most offensive thing is that there is a name, and tourists, and the richest legacy from Tolstoy's works. Well, make something out of this so that my son, when he comes home, demands the writer's book.
After all, there is! It is not difficult to dress the caretakers and museum staff in the costumes of this era. Make a historic atelier, contact area with horses and animals. Beat the same “War and Peace”, make “meetings” with the heroes at least on weekends. I am generally silent about the military topic.
Tolstoy is a school. It is not difficult to make a class, lessons, give ink to pee. After all, the costs are not very large, but what a delight it will be. And so ... the old, soviet museum. And if I can still be satisfied, then our children, brought up on the Internet and 3D, alas, do not really like to walk on such. Some understand this, the same Darwinovsky in Moscow, and some live the old fashioned way, on the name, and this makes me sad ...

I thought that we would spend a day in Yasnaya Polyana, but here it was two hours. So let's go to Kozlova Zaseka, a branch of the Tolstoy Museum.

Kozlova Zaseka

Branch of the museum-estate of Tolstoy Yasnaya Polyana- is already more modern, and I liked it much more. There we at least felt some spirit of the times.
Kozlova Zaseka- the current station, made antique. There is also a small museum here. This station is closely connected with the name of Tolstoy: it was here that letters were sent for him, and his body was also brought here.

“I am waiting with great excitement for your letter, dear friend, and I go after him at 5 pm to Kozlovka,” wrote S.A. Fat husband.

Kozlovka, or Kozlova Zaseka, is the railway station closest to Yasnaya Polyana, and now it is a museum station.
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Where did such a name come from? By the name of the voivode Danila Kozlov, who with his garrison fought off enemy raids here.

Later, during the construction of the Moscow-Kursk railway, a railway station appeared on the site of the notch. Both long-distance trains going south and suburban, "summer" electric trains stopped here.

Repin, Shishkin, Strakhov, and other talented and famous guests of Yasnaya Polyana have been here. Few railway stations could boast so many famous people who visited it. Leo Tolstoy often came here with his son. Here he made phone calls, received his mail. The Tolstoy family made all their trips through this small railway station.

From here they went to Moscow or to the south. It was from here that he set out in 1910 and fell ill on the road.
At the Astapovo station, the writer died, and the funeral train brought his body back to the Kozlova Zaseki station.
In 1928, on the centennial anniversary, the station was given the name "Yasnaya Polyana" in honor of the famous writer's estate.
In 1974, Kozlova Zasek was recognized as a cultural monument and included in a number of cultural objects to be protected.
In 2001, at the initiative of the Minister of Railways, Kozlova Zasek regained its historical name. In the same year, a large-scale reconstruction and restoration of the building and the surroundings of the station began. The exhibition "Railway of Leo Tolstoy" opens, which can be visited by anyone.

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When you visit the Yasnaya Polyana estate (especially on your own transport), do not be too lazy to make a couple of extra m for p visiting one rather cozy place - railway station of the Moscow railway "Kozlova Zasek". If you move from Tula, then to Yasnaya Polyana you need to turn right off the highway, and to the station - to the left (there is a sign at the intersection).

What is so special about this station?

First, its history. At one time, this place was the outskirts of the Moscow principality, where a notch was equipped to protect against enemy raids, which got its name in honor of the voivode Ivan Kozlov. In 1868, with the opening of the Moscow-Kursk railway, a railway station of the same name was built on this site. She was the closest to the estate of L.N. Tolstoy "Yasnaya Polyana"

The writer came to the station to make a phone call, all his mail came here, his guests came, and it was at this station in 1910 that the funeral train with the writer's coffin arrived.

In 1928 (on the centenary of the writer) the station was renamed Yasnaya Polyana.

In 2001, on the initiative of Gennady Matveyevich Fadeev (at that time he headed the Moscow Railway), extensive restoration work was carried out at the station using old drawings and on September 9 - on the birthday of L.N. Tolstoy - the solemn opening of the station-museum took place, which was returned to its old name - "Kozlova Zaseka".

During the restoration and restoration work, the station acquired the appearance that it had at the time of the writer's death .... (do not forget that this is an active station, therefore it is simply impossible to get rid of some attributes of modern life, for example, a contact network, etc.)

During the life of the writer, horses were tied to this fence on the platform ...

A poster from that time....

On the station building there are memorial plaques associated with the name of L.N. Tolstoy....

On the right side of the main entrance of the station there is a monument to the writer and the exhibition "L.N. Tolstoy's Railway" is open...

Station buffet, where you can have a bite today...

Luggage compartment....

There is a cellar on the square in front of the station.

and a drinking well...

You can go inside and sit in the waiting room on the benches of that time, and if you wish, buy tickets for any train ...

There is also a "consumer corner" here ....

And from here - you can make a call to a friend (or girlfriend) .... At one time, L.N. Tolstoy often came to the station to call someone...

You can also look into the office of the head of the station ...

Go to his table and take a closer look at the items on it...

(the most interesting thing is the telegraph machine...)

On the walls of the office there are photographs related to the history of the station.

And in the bookcase, in a special place, there is a book by G.M. Fadeev "My destiny is the railway". It was thanks to this person that a lot of work was carried out on the reconstruction of the station and another one appeared in our country. by an open-air museum, where it is not a shame even to bring foreign tourists.

She was stopped due to a hacker attack

For the sake of a five-minute walk on the cable car along the route Sparrow Hills - Luzhniki, the MK correspondent had to stand in line for an hour and a half. It is not surprising - the townspeople immediately rushed to master the novelty, since until December 27, travel on the cable car was made free. And everything would be fine, but not everyone is as lucky as MK. Shortly after our walk, the road, which began work on November 26, on Monday, was closed.

A long snake line stretches along Kosygin Street. People who want to ride the newly opened cable car come here - the day before there was information that the lower station near the Luzhniki stadium was not working. On Wednesday, November 28, however, everything changed.

— Ride? Go out to where the tail is. It moves fast, in ten minutes you will go! the police officer on duty replies cheerfully. And he adds, as a decisive argument: - In the same place, eight people fit in a booth, and do you know how many booths?

- How much?

- Well ... A lot of booths, a lot! - he turns the discussion off and throws a strange remark into space: - The main thing is that the landing at Luzhniki does not go wrong.

Well, let's time it.

True, it soon becomes clear that the ten minutes indicated by the fellow policeman are either a skillful deception, or his very strange perception of time. For at least the first 20 minutes, the queue doesn't seem to move at all. Meanwhile, it's cold. And it's windy. And you won't go anywhere to warm up.

- Yes, we will stand for three hours. I read it on the Internet yesterday,” a girl in a pink hat standing in front of me confidently says to her friend. Young, cheerful, as can be understood from the conversation - a student of Moscow State University. She's here every day! Will ride again, and more than once, when there will be no queue. Why suffer?

- Girls, what else do they write? Is it worth it? I cautiously try to strike up a conversation. The answer is incredibly simple:

— Yes, the devil knows! Photos seem to be nothing like that ... Well, for now it's free, you can ride.

Would all these people decide to stand in line if they had to pay the notorious 400 rubles at the entrance? The question is probably rhetorical. But it's free - they're worth it. And they stand with small children, and pensioners ...

- Oh, I should have taken brandy! an older gentleman behind me voices what everyone seems to be thinking.

The achievement of civilization on Kosygin Street is visible only one thing - the blue booths of dry closets. It seems that no one has counted them, in contrast to similar amenities near the Cathedral of Christ the Savior, which were placed along the line for the relics of St. Spyridon of Trimifuntsky quite recently, in September.

And in the rest, I must say, the religious queue was organized in an uncommonly better way. Why is there not, for example, a bus where one could warm oneself? Thermoses with hot tea? Businessmen, in the end, who would sell expensive coffee and tea - and they would definitely be bought. But no. We just stand there.

An hour has passed. Fingers froze. Legs too. The head hurts from the cold. And I'm not the only one - the enthusiasm of those standing nearby also seems to have noticeably subsided.

- Just like my Masha, she always whines too! - an elderly lady in boots of fashionable Marsala color upsets her companion. - Well, why whine? Everyone is cold, everyone is cold. But still they are worth it.

Good morals, you can't argue. Probably, it would have been appropriate that way thirty years ago, in line for something vital. Or at least in the queue for impressions - in the city, where you suddenly ended up for only a couple of days, and it is not known whether you will get there again. But in line for a five-minute flight over the Moscow River?

Passing by now and then ask: how much are you already standing? Forty minutes? Hour? One and a half?! Well, you must!

And they look at us ... well, not exactly as crazy, but as strange - that's for sure. Here the law enforcement officers add fuel to the fire:

— Keep in mind that landing at Luzhniki is obligatory. If you want to go back up, you will need to stand in the same queue there, - the policeman explains.

The queue is hysterically neighing. Obviously, no one wants to ride back and forth - like a doctor from The Incredible Adventures of Italians in Russia - even for free.

Right next to the pavilion-station, everything is simple and clear: they launch 8 people at a time - exactly how many fit in one booth. At the entrance, be sure to attach a social card of a Muscovite or Troika for reporting. But really free.

We get into the cabins. The people rejoice, mobile phones are at the ready. Is that just something to shoot? Probably, in the summer, when there will be lush greenery of the reserve below, and blue sky around, it will be beautiful. Now what? Except perhaps the Luzhniki circle against the background of a grayish-brown Moscow November. And the river.

All pleasure - for five minutes (however, they honestly warned about this). However, the event took more than an hour and a half: at 11.50 we got in line and only at 13.30 left the station below.

And at 15.00 the cable car broke down, which was promptly reported by the remaining Muscovites in the queue in social networks.

“Today at 14:00, the computer servers of the Moscow cable car were subjected to an unauthorized cyberattack. Employees, having discovered this, suspended the movement of the road, after which they promptly dropped off all passengers at their destination stations in order to ensure maximum safety for passengers. Unfortunately, we are forced to stop the transportation of passengers, ”the press service of the cable car quotes the media. Further schedule of work is promised to be announced on the website.

On the second day of the trip we went to Yasnaya Polyana. When only a few kilometers were left to the estate (according to the navigator), we ran into a "brick" - the road was completely blocked due to global repairs. I had to go around through Tula. The disadvantage of the navigator is that for quite a long time he suspects the driver of wrong actions and stubbornly offers to turn around in every place acceptable for this. But somehow our friend recovered, and we moved on. Here it turns out that we incorrectly put a point on the map. And leading us to the giant plant, the navigator announced that we were already in Yasnaya Polyana. A small explosion of emotions, loss of orientation in space and the way out I proposed - we are going to the Kozlov Zasek point, since we saw the railway nearby, which means that the station is somewhere nearby. Initially, we planned to go there after the estate, but it turned out the opposite.
Oh, and I still regret that I did not remove the plant. Well, just a monster! I've only seen such films about industrialization.
Meanwhile, our train car arrives at the Kozlova Zasek station.



The nearest railway station to the Yasnaya Polyana estate is located on the territory of the Kozlova notch, which was part of the complex of defensive structures on the southern border of the Russian state in the 16th-17th centuries. The name of the notch has several versions of origin, the main of which points to the voivode Danila Kozlov who served here.
In the 1860s, the construction of the Moscow-Kursk railway began, on the Tula section of which the Kozlova Zasek station was opened in 1864 (originally called a substation). It housed a small station building, which housed the head of the station and his assistant, the ticket office, the post office, and the passenger hall. Heating at the station was stove. In 1902, a luggage compartment, a wooden platform, an island platform, a toilet, a cellar and a railway house were built on Kozlovaya Zasek.









Tolstoy called the station simply Kozlovka. “I am writing from the Kozlovka station. Noise. The people are gone." Lev Nikolaevich, who loved travel and spent a lot of time on the road, did not immediately accept the invasion of civilization. But still he could not help but appreciate the speed and convenience of the railway, and soon he booked a whole carriage for trips along the "cast iron" with his entire large family. The writer, for their part, was treated very well by the railway workers, in particular, they gave him a whole compartment when he was sick.
Some long-distance southbound trains stopped at the station, and in the summer, suburban trains also stopped. Repin, Korolenko, Shishkin, Strakhov and other guests of Yasnaya Polyana came here to proceed to the writer's estate. Often the Tolstoys met their guests at the station, while at Kozlovka they received mail. “I am waiting with great excitement for your letter, dear friend, and I am following him at 5 o’clock in the evening to Kozlovka,” wrote S.A. Fat husband.



The writer indicated the following as his address: "Tula province, Tula district, Kozlova Zasek station." This is evidenced by his following diary entry: "... I changed my mind about the address of your letters and ask you to write ahead to Kozlovka."
In 1928, in the year of the centenary of the birth of the writer, the station was renamed Yasnaya Polyana, in 2001 its historical name was returned to it, restoration work was carried out and the exhibition "Leo Tolstoy's Railway" was opened.


We wandered through a small exhibition on our own, but you can buy tickets with a guided tour.