Why doesn't white hydrangea bloom? White rot of hydrangeas. Why does hydrangea not bloom, but only produce foliage?

There can be many reasons why hydrangea does not bloom. Garden beauty capricious. To grow this magnificent flower on your site and enjoy its flowering, you need to make some effort. It is necessary to study its preferences, determine the need for watering and lighting. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of the soil, planting location and plant variety. If you carefully analyze the conditions in which hydrangea grows, you can discover the reasons for its problems and correct the mistakes made.

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Poor place to plant a seedling

Hydrangea feels uncomfortable on open places being under the scorching rays of the sun all day. The tender leaves of many varieties droop lifelessly and burn in the heat.

On sunny place The plant will be saved by low planting. Tree trunk circle the bush should be 10 cm below ground level. It must be mulched with coarse-fiber peat or sawdust to the surface of the ground. In such conditions, the plant can develop and bloom normally.

In hot and sunny regions it is better to grow paniculata hydrangea. If moistened regularly, it will withstand direct Sun rays all daylight hours without harming flowering.

In deep shade, under the crowns of large trees, hydrangea is unlikely to delight with its lush color. The perennial does not develop well in heavy shade, regardless of which variety is planted. If flowers appear, they will be sparse and underdeveloped.



All varieties of plants prefer places where the sun's rays fall only before lunch. In such conditions, hydrangea blooms especially brightly, magnificently and for a long time.

If the place for the shrub is chosen poorly and the situation cannot be corrected in any way, you need to replant it. This should be done only as a last resort, since the plant does not tolerate transplantation well. The most suitable time for transplantation is autumn. At this time, the perennial is dormant.

Having picked up suitable site, you need to dig a hole to a depth of 50 cm. The extracted soil is mixed with 2 buckets of humus and 80 g is added mineral fertilizer. Hydrangea loves acidic soil and grows quickly in it. Therefore, the soil for it needs to be acidified with a solution of sulfuric acid (1 tsp per 10 liters of water).

The plant must be replanted very carefully, along with a lump of earth. If the root system is damaged during replanting, the plant will not bloom for a long time.



Lack or excess moisture

Hygrophilia is the main feature of hydrangea. The shrub has the botanical name Hydrangea. Translated from Greek language"hydrangea" means "water vessel". If there is a lack of moisture, the plant stops blooming. Its roots should always be kept moist. Do not allow the earthen ball to dry out near the roots. If the weather is dry, without watering the hydrangea may die.



In cool weather, it is enough to water the flower once a week. On hot and dry days, watering should be done every 3 days. Also needs additional moisture young plant until he is 1 year old.

If the soil is clayey, water less frequently. Water will stagnate in heavy soil. If there is excess moisture, hydrangea may reduce or stop flowering. An abundance of water leads to rotting of the roots and death of the plant. Oakleaf hydrangea tolerates moisture accumulation near the roots more difficult than others. It only needs well-drained soil. So that the water in clay soil does not accumulate, you need to add pine bark to it.

For irrigation, it is better to use rain or filtered water. Tap water must be left to stand for 5 days before watering. To water a bush once, you need 1-1.5 buckets of water. To prevent moisture from spreading, it is worth making an earthen border at the base of the bush.

In a garden surrounded by large and powerful hydrangea trees, there will not be enough moisture. The roots of the trees will take water from the flower. Even if tree roots are removed when planting a perennial, they will grow within a year.



Adaptation after disembarkation

Very often, after planting a healthy flowering plant in open ground, it loses its decorative qualities and stops flowering. The sharp deterioration in the condition of the flower is due to the lack of usual feedings. Hydrangea sellers often abuse fertilizers and overfeed the plants, achieving lush flowering and rapid growth. Finding yourself in natural conditions, flowering bush starts to hurt. It is not able to independently absorb the necessary substances from the soil. Such a plant may die if emergency measures are not taken.



When transplanting hydrangea from a container into the soil, you do not need to trim the roots and shake off the substrate. It will be very difficult for a weakened plant to restore its root system. The remaining soil in the container must be mixed with garden soil and poured into the root zone.

In the first year, you need to regularly fertilize hydrangeas, gradually reducing the dosage. It is important to create a plant ideal conditions in the first months after transplantation, avoiding drying out and stagnation of water in the root zone. When the hydrangea gets stronger, it will begin to develop and bloom.



Incorrectly selected fertilizers

If the hydrangea is overfed with nitrogen fertilizers, the young shoots will not have time to harden before frost. Vulnerable branches will die during frosts along with flower buds. To preserve young shoots of perennials, nitrogen fertilizers must be applied in the spring. At the beginning of bush growth, 25 g of urea, 40 g of superphosphate and 35 g of potassium sulfur are added per 1 m² of soil. This will allow the plant to develop lush greenery.



When the first buds appear, the amount of nitrogen fertilizing is reduced. Otherwise, all the plant’s energy will be spent on the formation of greenery, and not on flowers. To maintain lush flowering, 1 m² of land is fertilized with 80 g of superphosphate and 45 g of potassium sulfur.

When the plant fades, you need to put 15 kg of compost or rotted manure under it. Fertilizers will help the perennial to survive the winter safely and preserve buds for flowering next year.

Frozen buds in winter

Hydrangea blooms on last year's shoots. Buds of future flowers are laid in autumn time. If the plant is covered too late on the eve of winter or opened very early in the spring, the buds may be damaged by frost. Some varieties of shrubs (Endless, or Forever&Ever) bloom on shoots of the previous and current year. Flowers may appear on them, but in much smaller quantities than usual.



To avoid kidney freezing and ensure lush flowering, you need to trim the lower leaves to the middle height of the bush 3 weeks before the first frost. This will allow the shoots to become woody and stronger. The existing inflorescences will help protect flower buds from frost. They should not be cut.

Before the first frost, the buds are covered with burlap or lutrasil. On the eve of permanent frosts, remove the remaining leaves, tie the bush, wrap it in burlap or lutrasil and bend the branches to the ground. To prevent branches from breaking under the weight of snow, a log or roller made from tightly tied pine branches is placed under them. You need to pour it under the root pine needles. The top of the plant is covered with film.

The film is removed in the spring, as soon as the snow melts, so that the garden hydrangea can be ventilated. The bush can be lifted. Lutrasil should be removed only when a stable above-zero temperature has been established. With this method of sheltering for the winter, the plant will bloom earlier than usual.



Unsuccessful bush pruning

If the buds of future flowers are removed during autumn pruning, the plant will allotted time will not bloom.



Hydrangeas should be pruned only when necessary. Young plants should not be touched until they begin to bloom. The first flowers appear on the perennial after 2-3 years. Paniculate hydrangeas can bloom only in the 6th year.

In the fall, most varieties of hydrangeas do not need to be pruned. It is better to carry out spring pruning in more late dates when damage caused to the bush by frost is visible. Remove frozen buds, shoots and broken branches.

From correct pruning The decorativeness of the shrub depends. Some types of hydrangea have a very developed shoot-forming ability. If you do not thin out the bush, it will quickly thicken and bloom less abundantly with small inflorescences. On a severely neglected perennial, flowers may not form.

It is necessary to cut out small branches inside the bush that do not produce full-fledged inflorescences.



To enhance flowering, last year's shoots must be shortened, leaving 1-3 strong couples kidney One pair is left on a thin shoot, and several inflorescences will fully develop on a thick one.

Large-leaved hydrangea blooms from the upper buds of last year's shoots. Therefore, it is important to preserve the tops of young shoots that did not bloom last year. The lower buds on the shoots rarely bloom. Old shoots that are more than 4-6 years old do not produce flowers, so they need to be removed.

Diseases and pests

The reason why hydrangea does not bloom in the garden may be alkalization of the soil. Even if the flower is planted in the most suitable soil, over time the soil will become more alkaline. Due to the reduced acidity of the soil, the plant's absorption of iron is impaired and iron chlorosis (iron deficiency) develops.



A sign of chlorosis are prominent green veins on a lightened and yellowed background of the leaf blade. The leaves decrease in size, curl and fall off. The shape of buds and flowers changes. They dry out and crumble.

You can notice a decrease in soil acidity by changing the color of the inflorescence. If blue or blue flowers began to acquire a lilac color, the acidity of the soil decreased. Pink hydrangea will bloom on slightly acidic and neutral soil.

Hydrangea growing in lime-rich soil often suffers from chlorosis. Only tree hydrangea can withstand lime in the soil.

To cure a plant, you need to prepare a solution potassium nitrate. It is prepared from 40 g of potassium nitrate and 10 liters of water. Hydrangea is watered with the mixture for 3 days in a row, and on the fourth day iron sulfate is added to the soil.

You can quickly and easily solve the problem of chlorosis with the help of rust. It is scraped off from large metal objects and mixed with root soil. You can bury rusty nails or tin lids near the roots.

To prevent the development of chlorosis, you need to regularly water the bush with special fertilizers for hydrangeas.

In spring, chlorosis can develop due to sharp temperature fluctuations during the day and night. Metabolism in the plant is disrupted if the roots are in cold soil and the above-ground part is heated by the sun's rays. As the soil warms up, the plant recovers.

In addition to chlorosis, aphids can interfere with flowering, spider mite And powdery mildew. They prevent plants from developing, slowing down the flowering process or stopping it. Used for pest control modern means on a biological or chemical basis.



Wrong variety selected

Large-leaf hydrangea has recently begun to be planted in open ground. Many of its varieties are painfully tolerant of climatic conditions in the northern and northwestern regions. If hydrangeas are given proper care, they can take root and form a healthy bush. But the gardener may not wait for flowering. The reason for the lack of flowers on the bush may be that the summer is too short. The perennial does not have time to form buds for flowering for the next season.

To enjoy the magnificent caps of hydrangea inflorescences, it is better to select unpretentious varieties. For northern latitudes white will do tree hydrangea. It is rarely affected by pests and diseases, is frost-resistant and does not die in drought. The plant will delight you with inflorescences the very next year after planting in the ground. The most popular variety in the north is tree hydrangea Annabelle.

Blooming hydrangea is a real decoration garden landscape: with the help of this flower you can make any area picturesque and original. However, sometimes gardeners are faced with the fact that bloom ornamental plant refuses. Why hydrangea does not bloom, what the problem may be related to and how to solve it - we will find out from the article.

Most hydrangea varieties root system“grows up” 2-3 years after planting: then flowering begins. But there are varieties that take about 6 years for the roots to grow and develop. If the hydrangea does not bloom at all, the following reasons for this phenomenon are possible:

• wrong choice of variety;
• incorrectly chosen rooting site;
• adaptation period after planting/transplantation;
• insufficient watering;
• improper pruning - usually too radical;
• improper feeding of bushes;
• freezing of the buds during the winter;
• pest damage, diseases.

Variety selection

Today, scientists know about 70 species and varieties of plants. There are hydrangeas in the form of herbaceous low shrubs, there are tree-like varieties, vines, evergreen and deciduous varieties. And although the choice is extensive, in our climate many of the varieties cannot be grown normally in open ground.

There is a fairly large part of hydrangeas that simply do not have time to cope with the conditions short summer bloom. And if you purchased just such a variety, you may never wait for flowering.

Only a limited number of hydrangeas from all the variety that exists are suitable for our climate. Will fit well tree species, groundcover and paniculata. These are the most unpretentious and hardy species, which can bloom even in short, cool summers.

Poor choice of rooting site

When planning to plant hydrangea in open ground, a place for it must be selected taking into account all the specific requirements. Thus, the plant feels extremely uncomfortable in completely open places, especially under the scorching rays of the sun. In such conditions, even if the hydrangea blooms, this period will not last long: delicate petals They will simply burn out, wither and fall off.

If the area is entirely sunny, plant paniculata hydrangea: this species tolerates the sun better than others. However, do not forget about abundant regular moisture: only under this condition will the plant bloom well.

You should not plant the flower in a shady place either. In conditions of almost complete absence sunlight It is unlikely that large-leaved (or any other) hydrangea will delight you with abundant flowering. IN in this case The plant will also develop poorly.

Under the shady canopies big trees Therefore, it is not worth planting hydrangea. In addition to the fact that the crown of neighboring trees will create a significant shadow, practically impenetrable to the sun's rays, the roots of powerful plants will also take away water.

The optimal landing site will be an area illuminated and heated by the sun in the afternoon. Hydrangea planted in such a place will delight you with especially long, abundant flowering. Optimal lighting thus - partial shade or diffuse.

If the place is chosen incorrectly, and the flower has already taken root, there is nothing left to do but replant it. However, first think about whether there is any other way to correct the situation: after all, hydrangea tolerates transplantation very poorly.

Adaptation

Hydrangea has difficulty adapting to a new place, which is why it is transplanted only in the most extreme cases. Often, the first time after planting, the shrub wilts, stops developing, and its flowering either slows down or stops. In most cases, after a certain period, the flower adapts on its own, takes root, and continues its growing season at a normal pace.

If the hydrangea has wilted after being transplanted into open ground after purchase, most likely it is due to the lack of the usual abundant fertilizing that the plant was supplied with in the store/nursery. Often sellers overfeed the flower so that it looks more beautiful and lush when sold: naturally, after it gets into ordinary soil, the hydrangea wilts.

IN severe cases not only a lack of flowering is possible, but also the death of the plant. To avoid these sad consequences, it is necessary to make the plant’s adaptation more comfortable. For this:

• When replanting, do not cut the roots and do not shake off the old substrate from them;
• Mix the soil remaining in the store container with garden soil and pour it into the hole.

The first time after planting, feed the flower more abundantly to facilitate the adaptation process. But gradually reduce the dosage: this way, getting used to a normal diet will go unnoticed.

Lack of moisture

Hydrangea is an extremely moisture-loving flower; without water it will not last long. Even its name is translated from ancient Greek as “vessel of water.” If there is not enough moisture, the hydrangea will refuse to bloom, and its leaves will wither and wither. The roots should always be moistened: they should not dry out.

Let's say more: if the hydrangea is not watered during the dry summer heat, it may completely die. You understand that in this case there can be no talk of flowering. Recommended watering frequency: once a week in normal weather and every three days in drought. Special attention We recommend that you give it to young hydrangeas that are not yet a year old: at this tender age, the plant is especially sensitive to the lack of lag.

If the soil contains a lot of clay, water less frequently. In a dense substrate, water often stagnates, which is also harmful to the plant and causes rotting of the roots.

Incorrect pruning

Hydrangea should be trimmed very carefully, understanding what and how to do. If, during autumn pruning, the rudiments of future buds are removed, next season the flowering will either be less lush or not occur at all.

Young hydrangeas are not pruned until the first flowering, and adults - only when necessary. IN autumn period Not all varieties and types of hydrangea can be pruned, and in the spring we recommend postponing the procedure to a later time so that the buds are not damaged by return frosts. If pruning of the perennial is neglected in principle, buds may not form at all;

The procedure requires experience and skills:

• it is necessary to thin out the bush - otherwise the inflorescences will be crushed and become rarer;
• small branches growing inward require mandatory removal, since they do not bloom, but only thicken the crown;
• For abundant flowering it is necessary to shorten last year’s shoots, leaving no more than 1-3 healthy, strong buds on them;
• shoots older than 4-6 years no longer produce inflorescences, so they must be removed when pruning.

Important: if the shoot is strong and thick, you can leave three buds on it, if it is thin and weak - only one.

At spring pruning no need to remove shoots from last year's forcing - strong and healthy. It is on them that the bulk of the inflorescences will form this season. In autumn, remove only dried buds, mud, broken and damaged branches. Formative pruning after flowering is not necessary.

Top dressing

Garden hydrangea reacts extremely negatively to overfeeding. Excess nitrogen in the soil causes particular harm to plant flowering. This mineral is useful for the rapid growth of greenery, but has a negative effect on the formation of buds.

How to feed correctly:

• at the end of spring, add nitrogen to speed up the growth of foliage and the growth of young shoots;
• in summer, exclude nitrogen and use potassium phosphate supplements, which activate the formation of flower buds;
• In the fall, focus on potassium, which will protect the roots of the plant from freezing in winter.

We recommend using urea as a nitrogen-containing preparation. It is best to dilute the drug with water and potassium sulfate and apply it in the spring. If there is no urea, slurry diluted with water (1:10) is also suitable. It is better to use mineral complexes as a source of potassium and phosphorus.

Tip: when you plant a plant in the ground from a store container after purchase, be sure to feed the flower with a root growth stimulator. This measure will help the plant more easily adapt to a new place and take root.

Keep in mind that certain minerals can control the color of hydrangea buds. So, lime is useful if the hydrangea is pink: the flower petals will become brighter. The addition of alum will give the buds a blue tint.

Shelter for the winter

If the hydrangea is not properly prepared for winter, its buds and roots may freeze. Thus, flowering will not be seen in the next growing season. To avoid problems, in the fall, even before the cold weather, they begin to prepare the flower for winter. If the climate is relatively warm, it will be enough to trim the inflorescences and then cover the shrub with agrofibre. If the winters in the region are frosty and long, the hydrangea should be covered warmer and the roots should be buried.

Leaving a flower without any shelter for the winter is unacceptable: freezing in this case can be critical and destructive. Even frost-resistant paniculata hydrangea should not be left without protection: it is better to accept preventive measures than to allow the roots to freeze out.

Pest and disease damage

The reasons for the lack of flowering may also be associated with diseases and pest damage. Typically, most infections are transmitted through planting material. That is why it is best to purchase hydrangea seedlings from proven and reliable nurseries, and not from private traders.

In addition, diseases often occur if the plant is kept in conditions high humidity. Although hydrangea is a lover of water, excess moisture inevitably leads to the development of rot and the proliferation of fungus. The situation is aggravated by dense plantings.

Chlorosis is one of the most common diseases affecting hydrangea. The pathology manifests itself as yellowing of the foliage, but in advanced cases it can lead to a lack of flowering. Chlorosis occurs due to metabolic disorders in plant tissues: this usually occurs due to a lack of iron. To cure a flower, you need to feed it with iron-containing fertilizers and spray it with appropriate preparations. Although this treatment gives an effect, it is not immediate: you will have to wait some time until the bush acquires its normal color.

Hydrangea can also be affected by a harmful fungus: fortunately, this happens quite rarely. Usually fungal diseases associated with certain rots: root, stem. Prevention and treatment are based on the use of copper-containing drugs (for example, HOM).

For abundant flowering of hydrangea, the good development of its root system is very important. If the roots are weak, it is unlikely that you will be able to enjoy beautiful bright buds in the near future. Plants that take the longest to form after planting and overfed with fertilizers.

Carefully select a place for planting, since if you choose the wrong one, you will not see flowering. Well, hydrangea transplants are extremely difficult.

You should not plant a flower under the roof of a house: in the spring, falling snow or icicles can break its branches along with the rudimentary buds. This way the flowering will be much less abundant.

The area in the garden where hydrangea is planted should have fairly loose, permeable soil. A dense clay substrate is not suitable in this case: it must first be loosened with sand and peat.

If you are an inexperienced gardener, we recommend that you start with the Grandiflora hydrangea variety. This variety is time-tested: its flowering is quite predictable, expected and, with proper care, almost guaranteed. In addition, Grandiflora can be either paniculate or tree-like - choose any type to your taste.

When planting or replanting, be careful with the plant's rhizome. The hydrangea root is fragile and brittle: if it is damaged, the adaptation process will be greatly delayed. More significant harm in the form of illness and death is also possible. Remove the bush from the ground only together with the earthen clod and support the latter from below.

The flower must be watered regularly and quite abundantly. Particular attention should be paid to this procedure in the first year of the flower’s life, as well as in conditions of severe summer drought. After watering and rain, we strongly recommend loosening the soil in the garden bed. In this way, the permeability of the soil will be restored, which is important for the flower. At the same time, there will be fewer weeds.

We learned why hydrangea refuses to bloom and what to do about this problem. As you can see, the reasons are probably different: first you need to understand exactly what caused the lack of buds in specific case. And only then decide what measures to take. This approach will yield positive results in the shortest possible time and return flowering to your pet.

Hydrangea - popular among gardeners decorative flower. It belongs to the category of capricious crops. Errors in growing technology lead to a lack of flowers. There are several reasons why the plant does not bloom. It is important to diagnose them correctly and then eliminate negative factors.

Features of hydrangea cultivation

It is grown as a climbing vine, small tree or shrub. The plant has many varieties. The variety of shades and shapes allows you to create a unique decorative combination in the flower garden. You need to figure out why hydrangea doesn’t bloom in the spring, when you notice the absence of buds.

Beginning gardeners may encounter the following problem: they bought ready-made flowering plant in the store, but at home it withered. It is not possible to achieve the appearance of new buds. The reason for this was most likely special means, which stimulate flowering, but greatly deplete the strength of hydrangea. After treatment, the plant may not form new flowers for several more years.

Advice. In this case, you can help the culture by adding a growth activator.

If you purchase a young specimen and plant it yourself, it can bloom in the first summer after reproduction. However, without proper attention and care, you may be left without flowers even in the second season if the cutting turns out to be weak and has not grown stronger in the first year. And in this case, growth activators help. The drugs allow:

Hydrangea blossom

• strengthen and develop the root system;
• form stems and twigs;
• provide an increase in greenery.

Feeding hydrangea: the basis for full flowering

The correct technology for fertilizing hydrangea will help to grow a plant that can bloom normally. The flower needs the first feeding immediately after planting - with a weak solution organic fertilizer for good adaptation. During the growing process, fertilizers are applied according to a certain pattern.

In early spring, the crop needs a lot of nitrogen. This mixture works well:

• urea - 1 tbsp. l.;
• Potassium sulfate - 1 tbsp. l.;
• water - 10 l.

Attention! Watering is carried out at the rate of 5 liters per 1 bush.

An alternative is slurry diluted in water (1:10). Later, at the stage of bud formation, the plant is fed with mineral complexes with a high content of phosphorus and potassium. To further strengthen the bush, pour potassium permanganate solution over the root zone and the stem itself. The procedure must be repeated three times. In this case, there should be no situations where hydrangea does not bloom.

In summer, the shrub must be treated with a strengthening complex agent for flowering crops. Nitrogen must be used carefully during this period. Its excess will lead to strengthening of the greenery and the inflorescences themselves, which will negatively affect the strength of the branches. Total number fertilizing in the summer months is limited to 3 times.

During flowering, gardeners also use non-standard fertilizers:

• lactic acid (yogurt, kefir, whey);
• soaked sour bread.

Advice. In autumn, hydrangeas need to accumulate potassium and phosphorus, so repeat the course of applying mineral fertilizers.

How to understand why hydrangea does not bloom

The main reasons for the absence of buds in an adult hydrangea:

Before experienced gardener There is no question about hydrangea flowering. The main factor for this is proper care behind the plant.

How to make hydrangea bloom: video

Hydrangea is a shrub of magnificent beauty. In gardening, it is valued for the variety of forms of inflorescences, varied color palette, as well as very simple care. Often, it turns out that a person buys secondhand blooming hydrangea, replants it, but the inflorescences gradually begin to fade, and over time it dries out completely. So, why doesn't hydrangea bloom? In this article we will try to understand this issue.

Description

Hydrangea belongs to the Hydrangeaceae family, which has about 70-80 species of plants. Most species are shrubs 1-3 m high, some species are small trees, the rest are lianas. Most plants are deciduous. Hydrangeas bloom from spring to late autumn. The flowers are collected at the end of the stem into beautiful large inflorescences.

The shape of the inflorescences can be:

• Oval;
• Ball-shaped;
• In the form of a panicle;
• In the form of a cone.

Inflorescence color:

• White;
• Blue;
• Pink;
• Lilac;
• Crimson;
• Red;
• Lilac;
• Cream.

There are varieties that simultaneously combine several colors in color. The acidity of the soil directly affects the color of the inflorescences.

Hydrangea fruit – 2-5 – separate capsule with numerous small seeds.

This shrub is native to North America, East and South Asia.

Varieties

There are quite a large number of types of hydrangeas known - these are shrubs, trees and vines. More and more often they can be found on garden plots in Russia. The most common are:

• Hydrangea paniculata;
• Hydrangea large-leaved (or garden);
• Hydrangea;
• Hydrangea petiolate (climbing);
• Hydrangea oakleaf;
• Hydrangea radiata;
• Ash hydrangea (gray);
• Hydrangea serrata;
• Hortensia Sargent.

In addition to the above species, there are others, but they are rarely seen in our gardens.

For indoor growing One type of hydrangea is used - this is Hydrangea macrophylla. This species was brought over 200 years ago from China. This plant blooms from spring to late autumn.

Reasons for lack of flowering

Many who grow this plant often wonder why hydrangea does not bloom?

There are actually a lot of reasons:

1. Improper pruning of shrubs in spring.
2. Insufficient watering.
3. Undeveloped root system.
4. Use of a growth stimulator.
5. Poorly lit place.
6. Freezing of the plant in winter.

Hydrangea flowering can be easily restored. You just need to follow all the rules of care, including remembering to periodically apply fertilizer.

Rules for planting and care

Hydrangea – light-loving plant. But the bright rays of the sun and strong wind she could be harmed. Grows well in shady places. Hydrangea loves fertile, acidic, loose soil.

Landing rules:

• Planting should be done in the spring, when the soil has warmed up and the threat of night frosts has passed.
• Before planting, the plant must be pruned and the roots shortened.
• The hole for planting should be spacious 50*50 or 80*80 cm, which depends on the size of the plant.
• The soil must be fertilized - add organic and mineral fertilizers.
• The planted bush should be watered abundantly and covered with fallen leaves. For watering, it is better to defend the water, which saves the plant from leaf chlorosis. Watering is best done in the morning and evening, when there is no hot sun.
• Some species and varieties must be pruned annually when buds appear to prevent the bushes from becoming too elongated.

Even a beginner in gardening can quickly learn how to care for this plant. You just need to water it in a timely manner, loosen the soil and prepare the plant for wintering. You also need to know the amount of fertilizer application. If their number is too large, then too voluminous inflorescences will form, and under their weight the branches may simply break.

Reproduction

Hydrangea propagation is carried out in the following ways:

• By layering;
• Seeds;
• Cuttings.

The most effective and the easy way Propagation of hydrangea by cuttings is considered.

Diseases and pests

The main diseases that affect this luxurious plant:

1. Chlorosis, in which yellowness appears on the leaves.

1. Gray rot leading to the appearance of brown rotten spots on the leaves.

1. Septoria blight, which causes brown spots to appear on leaves with a diameter of about 5 mm. In this case, the infected leaf darkens over time and completely disappears.

1. Rust, which is characterized by a rusty color on the leaves.

But in addition to diseases, hydrangea can be plagued by various pests and insects:

1. Aphid. It can be found on the back of the leaves. A flower affected by this pest grows very poorly.

1. Spider mite. Detecting this pest will not be difficult, since the branches are covered with cobwebs.

1. Slugs. They eat leaves.

To prevent and control pests and insects, the soil should be treated with various chemicals: insecticides, antifungal drugs, pesticides, folk remedies.

Use in landscaping, combination with other plants

Hydrangea is at the peak of popularity today. It is used to create different floral ensembles and garden styles.

With the help of hydrangea, unique compositions are created in the garden. It can be used in pairs with lilac, spirea and mock orange. You can also combine this plant with other garden flowers that have a similar shape. This creates an amazing effect during the flowering period.

If hydrangea is planted near a pond, then it can be combined with plants that love wet soil, for example, hosta, astilbe, bergenia.

Medicinal properties and uses

Hydrangea can be more than just a garden decoration. Since ancient times, the Cherokee Indians have used hydrangea root for kidney problems.

It has the following medicinal properties:

• Calming;
• Diuretic;
• Prevents kidney stone formation;
• Painkillers;
• Bactericidal.

Hydrangea is used to treat:

Sore throats. Flowers and leaves are used. 1/10 tbsp. Pour boiling water over the mixture and bring to a boil. Leave for 1 hour, then strain. Take 100 ml 3 times a day warm 30 minutes before meals.

Diarrhea. Fresh crushed leaves are used. 2 tsp leaves per 1 cup of boiling water. Leave for about an hour, then strain. Take 2 tbsp. 3 times a day before meals.

Cystitis. Fresh leaves or branches are used. Preparation: pour crushed leaves or branches with alcohol in a 1:1 ratio. Let it brew. Take ½ tsp. 2 times a day.

Two questions are most often asked by buyers: why don’t large-leaved hydrangeas bloom, and if they do bloom, why not blue flowers?
To get guaranteed flowering, you need to try - after the first frost, tear off the leaves and leave the top two. Remove old branches - this stimulates the formation of powerful basal shoots, cut out weak shoots, they are unproductive and often die in winter. Do not cut off the apical buds under any circumstances - the largest inflorescences develop from them, and some varieties bloom exclusively on the tops. Carefully bend the remaining shoots to the ground, the lower the better, do not isolate them from the ground in any way (this is a common mistake), the upper part of the bush should lie on the ground. Cover the tops with lutrasil (spunbond, agril) and cover the entire plant with peat or ordinary soil (I take it from the beds and take it back in the spring). There should be at least 10-15 cm of soil above the plant, and if you are not sure about the frost resistance of the variety, you can cover the top with lutrasil-60. In fact, the process is not complicated, and the result exceeds expectations.

In the spring, you have to dig up hydrangea late, sometimes in early June, because... flower buds are afraid of return frosts. But, if you live in a country house, then you can take a risk - dig it up, and if there is a threat of freezing, wrap the bush with lutrasil in 2 layers. When removing the shelter, carefully fold back the lutrasil along with the soil so as not to damage the buds, which by this time are usually already moving forward. Raise the shoots and shade them with lutrasil for the first time, remove it on a rainy or cloudy day.

Large-leaved hydrangeas bloom very early; their inflorescences become colored already in early July, when paniculates are just gathering their strength.

Why did the blue hydrangea suddenly turn pink? The fact is that hydrangeas need aluminum salts to form blue inflorescences, for example, the “Rainbow” hydrangea coloring agent. It must be applied in liquid form, but if the weather is rainy, you can bury a teaspoon in several places around the bush, it will slowly dissolve and be absorbed by the plant. But aluminum only works on very acidic soil, so during the season it is necessary to acidify the soil several times - 50 g citric acid dissolve in 10 liters of water and pour the soil under the plant in several approaches so that the solution reaches even the deep roots. To prevent water from spreading, make a cushion of soil around the plants. These events should be carried out at the end of August-September, that is, at the moment of flower bud formation on next year, but if you added it at a different time, it won’t get any worse, and then your hydrangea will have blue inflorescences again.