First spring work at the dacha. Spring work in the garden. Caring for coniferous trees in spring

With the onset of spring, nature wakes up and the time to work begins. summer cottages and in the garden.

With the arrival of spring, nature comes to life

March is the first month of spring and in some regions it may still be frosty for planting to begin. But it’s already quite possible to start cleaning the garden area and vegetable garden.

Preparing for the season in March

Spring work in the garden they start with cleaning. It is necessary to remove the entire area from autumn debris and accumulated winter period litter - branches, leaves, grass residues, etc. It is worth taking this event responsibly, since uncollected windfall and other winter debris spoils the impression of appearance area, in piles of such garbage a favorable environment is created for various pests. During the process of clearing the land, remove all weeds remaining from the fall. Now they are easily pulled out along with the root system.

We clean up leaves and grass if we haven’t done it in the fall.

Then you should carefully inspect the garden buildings and determine the need for repairs. A general cleaning of the garden house wouldn't hurt - some things need painting, some need whitewashing. In other words, both the garden area and the house itself must be put in order.

Inspect the tools: clean, lubricate, sharpen

Conduct an audit garden tools. Some of them probably need sharpening or repair, and some inventory items can already be completely replaced. Pay attention to clothes designed for work in the garden. There is no specific set; it all depends on the local climatic conditions of the region. Make sure you have clothes that you can wear while working hot weather, both in the rain and in the windy, cool weather. Don't forget about shoes and gloves.

Work directly on the ground

Spring gardening should begin with planning what will be planted and where. Please note that the planting sites for some garden crops must be periodically alternated. Decide on the sunny sides of the garden and those that are in the shade almost all day. Trim trees and shrubs surrounding the area.

We prune trees and shrubs if we haven’t done it in the fall.

Plants should be fertilized. This must be done even if the soil is fertile. You need to fertilize the soil with a mixture of potassium, nitrogen and phosphorus. They influence the growth of roots and shoots and are responsible for the formation of good inflorescences and fruits. You can apply such fertilizers while there is snow on the ground. Upon its final melting nutrients will enter the soil along with moisture.

It is important to properly prepare the designated areas of the field for planting seeds. If necessary, dig up the earth, crush large pieces into small earthen clods, etc.

Dig up the ground if you didn’t do it in the fall and mark out the beds, don’t forget about crop rotation

Assess the quality of the land. In the case when it is heavy, you need to add fine gravel and coarse sand to the soil to increase airiness. In such soil, water will not accumulate near the root system and will not cause its rotting process. And, conversely, if the soil is too crumbly, it is necessary to add some clay-containing soil to it to retain nutrients and moisture.

Fertilize the soil with fertilizers better in autumn before plowing. In spring, apply 1/3 of the recommended dose

When loosening the soil, remember that you don’t need to dig it up often, because... beneficial substances go deep into the soil. When digging, the soil structure itself suffers. If loosening is required, it should be done to a depth of no more than 10 cm.

Working with seeds

Before planting seeds, they must be prepared for this. The seeds of each plant are prepared differently, but there are general rules. It is necessary to sort through them and select large ones, without signs of damage, disease, or physical damage. In order to separate bad seeds from good ones, you need to warm them up on the stove for 2-3 hours. Then in a glass with a solution of 1 tbsp. Drop the heated seeds with a spoon of salt and water. Poor quality ones will float and can be thrown away.

Rejecting seeds before planting

The rest must be placed in cheesecloth before germination. Don't forget about hardening the seeds. To do this, they need to be placed in the refrigerator for several hours. After the seeds germinate, they can be planted in pre-prepared boxes, a greenhouse or greenhouse. The main condition that must be met is that future shoots get as much sunlight as possible.

Using the same principle, seeds of annual flowers are prepared for future planting in open ground. By the way, the area of ​​the field intended for planting flowers also needs to be prepared - apply fertilizer, preferably in the first month of spring, before the ground has completely thawed. The same rule is true for other areas of the garden intended for growing vegetable and garden crops.

Things to do in April

This month, spring work in the garden becomes more intense. If roses or grapes were covered in the fall, the coverings can now be removed. If the area of ​​the field has not yet warmed up and it is too early to carry out planting work, it is time to start setting up greenhouses or greenhouse structures. Before planting seeds, make sure that the greenhouse in the garden stands on the ground with a closed film for some time. This is necessary to warm the soil in the greenhouse.

In April we install greenhouses and greenhouses, plant seedlings

It is also worth paying attention to fruit and berry plantings. It is necessary to trim dry branches, thin out young shoots, and eliminate those branches that grow inside the crown. In order to prevent damage to trees by pests, it is necessary to treat the stem parts with special preparations. The second month of spring is the optimal time for planting new trees and shrubs.

April is the time to plant trees and shrubs

At the same time, strawberries and raspberries are prepared. Dried stems of raspberries are cut out and, if necessary, thinned out. In the strawberry bed, excess tendrils are trimmed and thinning is also carried out.

Garden work in May

May days are the most troublesome and time-consuming days in the garden. And in the same month, numerous pests appear and come to life. That is why it is worth checking the fruit and berry plantings. Inspect the currants for mites. Carefully examine the buds - their large size indicates that they may contain a tick. They must be collected and burned; they cannot simply be thrown away. When the currants bloom, make sure that there are no inflorescences of a dirty pink hue. If they are found, you need to dig up such a bush and burn it.

Active planting of beds begins in May

Inspect seedlings in greenhouses and greenhouses. A sign of its damage by spider mites is the leaflets curling down or the presence of convex spaces on them. If an infestation by mites or aphids is detected, it is necessary to treat with biological products against these pests.

We remove old strawberry leaves and thin out all the remaining berries, if you didn’t do this in the fall, or just dig up the ground

If the seedlings are lethargic, with leaves beginning to turn yellow, then you should feed them. In May, depending on weather conditions and the degree of soil warming, seedlings need to be planted. Why first prepare the place - make a hole, pour water into it. It is best to pre-mulch the soil using peat or dry grass. Pay attention to the thickness of the mulching layer; it should be at least 10 cm to prevent it from being blown away by the wind or washed away by rain. Mulching the soil is done to retain moisture and create a comfortable, cool atmosphere in hot weather. This technology is not used for eggplant and pepper seedlings.

We remove the first weeds

Remove any emerging weeds. When weeding an area with perennial plants be careful. In order to remove weeds along with the roots, it is best to weed with your hands. Those areas where there are no perennial plants can be treated by special means against weeds.

Planting potatoes

The most favorable time for planting potatoes - the bird cherry flowering period. The soil temperature should be around +12 0 C +15 0 C. Potatoes need to be prepared for planting. Remove tubers that have not sprouted, are rotten or have any other defects. Place the selected potatoes in a warm place to increase the intensity of germination. The potato planting depth should be half the length of a standard shovel. When planting potatoes, you can immediately add fertilizer to the soil - ash or straw.

Preparing trees and shrubs: protecting them from pests

Fruit and berry trees and shrubs should also be treated. Spraying against pests should be carried out at the beginning of the flowering period, then sprayed again after 14 days.

We graft trees

If you were planning to graft trees, now is the time to do it. There is only one limitation - you cannot vaccinate during the waxing phase of the moon. This is due to the fact that during this period most of the sap is in the branches of trees, and during the waning moon - in the root system.

Work in the garden and vegetable garden, of course, does not end there, but if you do all the basic types of work, you can be sure that in the fall you will be able to reap a good harvest.

With the arrival of spring, a hot period begins for gardeners and gardeners in their summer cottages and other areas; they need to have time to complete all the work and prepare the soil for a good harvest of fruits and vegetables. The owners’ hands are itching, because they are quite fed up with winter worries and cold, and they want to quickly go out into the garden and beds, determine the scope of work for themselves and begin to carry it out. The harvest will depend on properly carried out spring work in the garden (let’s not forget about summer chores either). Therefore, spring is a responsible time for gardeners and vegetable growers.

Work in the garden and vegetable garden in spring (March - April - May)

What kind of work needs to be done in the garden in the spring? Everything needs to be done better according to what was prepared in advance, taking into account personal experience, plan. All work in the garden and vegetable garden is carried out slowly, in compliance with agrotechnical techniques and in accordance with climatic conditions. This is the only way to be sure that the work will give a positive result. As soon as the sun warms up, the first thing you need to do is take care of the fruit trees.

Freeing fruit trees from the snow cap

At the beginning of March, the gardener’s first priority is to free the branches of fruit trees from the ice crust that appears when the snow melts. All work should be carried out with a garden fork so as not to harm the young branches.

Experienced gardeners, after heavy snowfall, “powder” trees with peat or wood ash. IN tree trunk circles you need to do the same, since the sun's rays will quickly heat the dark snow and it will begin to melt.

Is the "Snow Accumulation" technique so good?

Due to unstable spring weather and low night temperatures, many gardeners want to restrain the blossoming and flowering of trees so that frosts do not affect future harvest. They practice the "Snow Accumulation" technique. After heavy snowfall, gardeners pour snow under the trees and cover them with sawdust. They believe that accumulated snow will melt more slowly, delaying the awakening of plants. Growing season moves a little and the flowering does not fall under spring frosts. But from a scientific point of view, this cannot be done, because each plant has its own development cycle and interference with nature can destroy the trees.

Spring whitewashing of trees and shrubs

After the snow melts, it is necessary to whiten the trunks of trees and shrubs lime mortar. This procedure is not carried out for beauty, but to protect plants from pests and scorching sun rays. To prepare 10 liters of solution you need to take half a kilo copper sulfate, diluted in a small amount of hot water, 2.5 kg of chalk or lime and casein glue - 100 g, and adding more water. Mix all components and apply to the trunks in 2 layers.

Pruning bushes and trees

Maintenance pruning is carried out on mature plants. Its purpose is to ensure growth, increase fruit production and maintain the crown.

Formative is pruning the crown of young plants in order to give it a beautiful and compact appearance, stimulate the formation of fruits and facilitate harvesting. Held until the beginning of May.

Regulatory pruning is carried out together with supporting pruning. It can control the load on the branches during heavy fruiting.

Anti-aging pruning is carried out on old trees. In this way, fruiting can be stimulated.

Restorative pruning is carried out on heavily branched trees, on those that have frozen over the winter or have been damaged by rodents and pests.

Grafting garden trees in spring

It happens that the taste of the fruit does not suit the owner. There is a way out: you can graft trees with new varieties. It is not necessary to buy a new plant.

Scion preparation

To graft a new variety, cuttings must be taken from young trees: stone fruit crops must be no older than 5 years, and pome crops must be no older than 7 years. The best time The best time to harvest cuttings (scion) is the beginning of winter, since annual growths need to mature and harden. For cuttings, take annual shoots. They carefully inspect and cut them into pieces of 40 - 60 cm and hide them in the snow. Also, cuttings can be prepared in early spring, but provided that the winter was not harsh and frosty.

At what time should vaccination be carried out?

April is the most suitable time for grafting, as active sap flow begins in the rootstock. In order for the scion and rootstock to take root well, it is necessary to prevent the scion from entering an active state, so it must be stored in the refrigerator or under the snow until last moment. The scion must not be allowed to dry out. During storage, it should be in a bag or wrapped in damp material.

First of all, you need to graft cherries, cherries and plums (stone crops), and then pear and apple trees (pome crops), since the latter begin to flow sap later.

Common methods of vaccination:

• into the cleft;
• for the bark;
• into the side cut.

First you need to trim the skeletal shoots, leaving a trunk length of 40 cm and graft with prepared varieties. The place where the scion and rootstock combine is wrapped with film, and the cutting is lubricated with varnish. This procedure will reduce evaporation by half and prevent the shoot from drying out. After 3 weeks, the film must be removed.

Re-vaccination

You cannot re-graft a plant in 1 year; the whole process must be extended over 3 years. During regrafting, most of the branches are cut off, so 3 years is the optimal period for establishing correspondence between the roots of the tree and its above-ground part. Re-vaccination should be done from top to bottom. In 1 year the upper part is grafted, in the second - the middle part, and in the third - the lower part. For stone fruit trees, the “split” grafting method is an ineffective method. The survival rate of cuttings in stone fruit crops is 60%, in pome crops – 90%.

Feeding

Caring for trees and shrubs in spring time involves the application of fertilizers. You can feed it with organic matter or apply mineral fertilizers.

Chicken manure has proven itself to be a good organic fertilizer. It needs to be applied to the soil in a circle around the tree trunk. Apple, plum, pear, quince, cherry, and peach trees are fed with chicken droppings. Organic matter is necessary for the growth and fruiting of apricots and cherries.

For your information!

Fresh chicken manure, not diluted with water, can destroy the roots, so it must be infused in water before use.

Preparing fertilizer

• For 10 liters of water you will need 1 kg of dry litter.
• The organic matter is placed in a bucket and 3 liters of water are added.
• The diluted litter should ferment within 1 - 2 days.
• Then you need to fill the bucket with water to the top, mix and feed the plants.

If there are no chickens on the farm and there is nowhere to get fresh droppings, you can buy it in dry form. It should be remembered that improper storage of droppings leads to the fact that it turns into ammonia, as evidenced by the acrid and pungent odor.

Trees can be fed with compost or manure. We only introduce rotted manure, which, unlike chicken manure, we do not dilute it in water, but immediately apply it to the soil. Not only coniferous trees should be fed with manure: cypress, spruce, yew, pine, thuja, but also apple and pear trees.

Protection of plantings of fruit trees and shrubs from spring frosts

During the flowering period of trees and shrubs and during the setting of berries and fruits, low night temperatures cause great damage. It is very difficult to preserve the harvest, but to protect the garden from frost - the main task gardener

Fruit and berry plants shed their buds at a temperature of -4 degrees. An air temperature of -1 degree damages young, tender ovaries, and a temperature of -2 degree is destructive for blossoming flowers.

If the garden is located on the shore of a large body of water, a drop in temperature will not harm it. But he, located in open areas, in low places, needs protection.

When planting a garden, you need to take into account that dry and loose soil cools faster than moist soil. Therefore, it is important to choose in advance a place for the future “residence” of trees and shrubs.

The technique of “fumigation (in other words: smoking) of trees.” A reliable way to protect against low temperatures. To do this, you need to lay out heaps of garbage throughout the garden: old leaves, wet grass, tree branches, weeds. To prevent rapid combustion, piles of garbage are sprinkled with turf, garden soil, weeds or grass. Combustible material will smolder, emitting a lot of smoke. When the sun rises (after 1.5 hours), you can finish smoking.

Smoke bombs. You can buy them in specialized stores. The smoke spreading from smoke bombs envelops trees and shrubs in a layer of paraffin. Plants are protected, since paraffin does not allow low temperatures to damage swollen buds, flowers and ovaries. Smoke bombs are effective even at temperatures of -4 degrees.

Spraying cold water trees and abundant watering of the soil are also considered an effective procedure for protecting against low temperatures.

Summer residents who have great experience When caring for the garden, place basins and other containers under trees and near bushes, and fill them with water. The procedure is labor-intensive, but significant. Once you place the bowls with water, you don’t have to worry about the fruit trees and bushes being damaged.

Protecting your garden from pests

When plants awaken from winter sleep, pests intensify their activity. In early spring When there are no swollen buds, trees and shrubs can be treated with any pesticides.

Spraying is the most effective method for carrying out preventive work and for insect control.

If there was no large insect infestation last year, it will be enough to spray the trees with Bordeaux mixture, urea or copper sulfate according to the instructions.

To prevent the development of diseases such as scab, cocomycosis, moniliosis, curliness, it is necessary to treat dormant buds with Bordeaux mixture (1 - 2%). Processing should only be carried out at temperatures above 0 degrees.

At mass destruction Shrubs with harmful insects are recommended to be treated with phytoverm or fufanol (20 and 10 ml of product per bucket of water, respectively). "Fitoverm" is a biopesticide that is destroyed within 5 days, fufanol lasts 10 days. During this time, young insects emerge from the larvae and continue to destroy the plantings, so it is necessary to treat the plants 3 times. The drugs are dangerous to human health, but they are not able to penetrate deep into the plants and destroy the pest. For example, in order for the fight against currant bud mite to give positive results, it is necessary to “catch” the moment when pest individuals move from old buds to young ones.

In the spring you can see cracks and wounds on the bark; they need to be treated with 3% copper sulfate and covered with varnish. To prevent fungal diseases, trees are sprayed with urea (5%).

If brownish-red spots with black tubercles appear on trees and shrubs, these are signs of cytosporosis disease. All damaged branches are stripped back to healthy tissue, thin and weak shoots are completely removed.

How to arrange hunting belts?

During bud break, the larvae of aphids, caterpillars of leaf rollers, moths, moths and apple honeybees begin their vigorous life activity. During this period, the apple flower beetle crawls out of its hiding place.

At first they cannot fly, but in search of food they actively climb the bark of trees to young buds and foliage. This can be prevented by placing adhesive (catching) belts on the tree trunk. To make them they take thick paper or soft thin cardboard and generously grease with glue.

A belt made from loosened cotton wool and attached to wood works well at catching beetles. To protect the cotton wool from getting wet during bad weather, you can attach a film canopy on top of it. Catching belts made of cotton wool are installed on the upper and middle parts of the trunk. If the apple flower beetle has damaged the buds, you will see black dots on them that look like a needle prick.

Lawn care

When the air temperature rises above 5 degrees, grass begins to grow. In the spring, you need to clear the area of ​​debris: old leaves, moss, tree branches. Mechanical cleaning of the lawn is carried out (or you are just planning to lay a lawn, here are articles about preparing the site for it and the planting itself) using a metal fan rake.

If the area has heavy soil, it can be improved by spreading sand over the surface of the lawn. With its help, unevenness will be filled. You do not need to pour pure sand, but along with humus or garden soil. For 2 parts sand you will need 1 part leaf humus or country soil. The embankment should be leveled using the back of the rake.

The main spring work of a gardener - vegetable grower

April is a hot month for summer residents. At this time, spring work in the garden is in full swing. It is necessary to prepare the soil for planting, apply complex fertilizer for planting perennial crops, prepare a greenhouse and plant seedlings.

Preparing the soil for planting

To seeds of cold-resistant crops: cauliflower, carrots, broccoli, beets and lettuce were able to germinate, the soil should warm up to +8 degrees, and heat-loving crops such as pumpkins and cucumbers will need a temperature of +12 degrees.

Often winter does not want to give way to spring and the soil does not warm up for a long time. In this case, you should warm it up artificially. It is necessary to calculate the sowing time and cover the beds with black plastic or garden material. This way, the soil will warm up faster and moisture will remain in the garden bed. After planting seedlings in warm soil, they will begin to grow faster.

Planting seedlings of flowers and vegetables

Young plants grown at room temperature, before planting in the ground in the garden, they must get used to lower temperatures, so they should be hardened in advance. When the temperature outside is above zero and there is no wind, the boxes with seedlings (read how to grow them correctly) should be taken out into the garden. Sunbathing will only benefit her. In the evening, the boxes are brought into the house, and if night frosts are not expected, they are left outside, but wrapped in film or spandbond.

When growing seedlings in a greenhouse, it is necessary to increase ventilation to harden the young plants. Seedlings should be prepared a couple of weeks before planting in open soil.

Before planting, we remove the seedlings along with a lump of earth from the abundantly spilled boxes of seedlings and plant them in prepared holes in the garden bed. You need to replant in the evening or on a cloudy day. During transplantation, part of the main root is removed and the plant is buried down to the first leaves. New plantings are watered thoroughly and the soil around the plants is compacted once again, being careful not to damage the young leaves.

Vegetable grower's calendar

Works in March

At the beginning of the month, you need to start preparing nutritious soil for seedlings, steam it and disinfect it. Soak the seeds (be sure to check them for germination) of eggplants, tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers and sow them for seedlings. Celery also requires planting.

It's time to inspect the bulbs of flowering plants, remove all diseased and dried out ones.

The second decade is suitable for picking and feeding cabbage seedlings.

Beds with perennial plants should be sprinkled with ash or peat and covered with some kind of insulation. This technique will help the plants begin to grow faster.

The third ten days of the month are suitable for picking peppers and tomatoes. After transplanting, they should be fed.

You can prepare greenhouses for the season, repair them and treat them disinfectants, pin the raspberries bent to the ground for the winter.

Works in April

In the first ten days, you need to put the potatoes to sprout.

It's time to sow late varieties cabbage: cauliflower, white and red.

If carried out winter sowing vegetable seeds, now is the time to remove the covers and loosen the soil between the rows.

Do not forget!

Rhubarb and sorrel plantings are fed with nitrogen fertilizer, diluting 3 tbsp in a bucket of water. l. urea and adding the resulting mixture between the rows. Compost should be spread around the rhubarb bush and covered with a bucket. The plant will become warmer and it will begin to grow faster, and the petioles will taste more tender.

Works in May

An unpredictable month, the likelihood of frost returning is quite high, so do not rush to plant heat-loving crops into open ground, despite the warm daytime temperature.

At the beginning of the first ten days of May, you can sow parsley, lettuce, nigella onions, dill, radishes, spring garlic, and carrots.

Tomatoes, eggplants, peppers, and cucumbers can be planted in a greenhouse or greenhouse. You should inspect the perennials, spray the plantings against pests if necessary, feed the plants and mulch the soil around them.

The middle of the month is suitable for planting potatoes.

When all the work has been done, you should prepare the beds for cucumbers, pumpkins, beans, squash, basil and zucchini.

Features of spring sowing of some vegetable crops

To obtain high yield, it is necessary to prepare the seeds for planting, select high-quality ones, and throw away the “dummies”. Great care must be taken to ensure proper fit.

Radish

When sowing seeds, do not thicken the plantings. In order for the root crops to be juicy and large, the distance between plants/rows should be 5 cm and 15 cm. The crop is demanding of moisture, so it needs daily watering. With a lack of moisture, the radish becomes tough and the stem stretches.

Garlic

Planting beds need to be changed annually. Return them to previous place possible only after 4 years. If crop rotation is not adhered to, garlic is more susceptible to disease, yield decreases and shelf life is shortened.

cucumbers

It is preferable to grow through seedlings. The soil for sowing seeds should consist of peat, turf land and sawdust, respectively 1:1:2.

The bed for planting cucumbers should be prepared in advance. The crop is heat-loving, so the basis of the bed should be fresh manure. Then you should pour fertile soil, make holes and transfer the plants, being careful not to damage the roots. Warmth comes from the manure, which will allow the root system to gain strength and the cucumbers will grow faster.

Vegetable crops require light, warmth and moisture, but the plants need to be watered only with warm water.

A common mistake made by vegetable growers is to thicken the plantings. The distance in the row between plants should be about half a meter, and 60 centimeters between rows.

It is better to sow fresh seeds, since last year’s seeds produce male flowers that do not produce ovaries.

Watermelon

It is impossible to predict what kind of summer awaits us: hot or cold. But you can experiment with planting watermelons. They need to be grown only by seedlings. Replant in a greenhouse or open ground. When the plant grows and produces lashes, they should be shortened, leaving one ovary on the plant. Thus, all the necessary substances will reach the growing fetus, and it will be possible to obtain sweet watermelon. One more nuance. The root system of the plant is very vulnerable, so you need to remove weeds carefully, trying not to damage it. Many vegetable growers advise not to pull out weeds with roots, but only to tear them off. It looks untidy, but the harvest is good.

Carrot

The culture loves good light, so the beds should be located in a bright place. The soil is loose, sandy loam. For root crops to grow, there must be enough space, so after the seeds germinate, you need to thin out the plantings, focusing on the distance between vegetables of 4 cm, between their rows - 15 cm. When they thicken, the root crops turn out ugly and small.

Salad

The culture is cold-resistant, so it is not afraid of night frosts. Sow the seeds in well-fertilized soil. When watering plants, you should not get it on the leaves; you need to add it to the roots. When sowing small seeds, they can be mixed with fine sand and buried 1 cm into the soil. There should be a distance of 8 cm between plants, and 15 cm between rows. Over time, the leaves become coarser and become unsuitable for food, so they need to be picked when they are tender. It is better to grow varieties of head lettuce using seedlings.

Beans and peas

Warm-loving crops should be planted in the garden in May. Tall varieties Peas will need a lot of space, so the distance between rows should be 0.5 m. Before planting legumes It is recommended to soak the seeds.

Spring work in the garden and vegetable garden requires patience and hard work from the summer resident. If all the work is done in a timely manner, you can provide yourself with a supply of vitamins and the joy of contemplating beauty for the whole year.

We have prepared brief instructions on spring work in the garden and several “cheat sheets” with brief general information about plant life.

Early spring is the time to prepare beds, sow and care for seedlings. And as we take care of plants for the coming weeks and months, it wouldn’t hurt to refresh our minds general ideas about their lives.

The main thing

Vegetable plants need 5 main environmental factors: sunlight, heat, moisture, air, nutrition. If all this is in abundance, then only then can one hope for full growth and a rich harvest. But the shortage of any of these factors cannot be replaced by an excess of others, and it is this deficiency that will determine future fate plants.

Photo: AiF/ N. Belyavskaya

Greenhouse preparation

As soon as the weather permits, the soil in the greenhouse should be dug up using a shovel. At the same time, fertilizers are applied: to the future cucumber bed - 5-6 kg of humus, 50 g of nitroammofoska or other complex fertilizer and 300 g of ash per 1 m2. Where tomatoes, peppers and eggplants will grow, the dose of humus should be halved.

Warm beds

If you plan to do it in a greenhouse warm beds For early sowing or planting, you need to remove part of the soil (10-15 cm) and add biofuel in a layer of 20-30 cm into grooves 40 cm wide. Then pour 15-20 cm on top fertile soil. Make ridges and cover them with film to speed up heating and reduce heat loss.

Film greenhouse

You need to stretch the new film over the greenhouses in such a way that by the end of April you can sow cold-resistant, early-ripening vegetables in it.

The first step is to prepare the frame. If necessary, it is repaired and painted white, since the film ages faster on a dark surface. It is better to wrap sharp corners and protruding parts of the frame with strips of old film or non-woven fabric.

Film for greenhouses can be combined into a single sheet the right size soldering iron or iron through tracing paper or paper (melting temperature of the film is 120-140 °C). This way it will be easier to cover the greenhouse - in calm weather, the panel is thrown over the frame and the edges are attached to the bottom of the structure.

Photo: AiF/T.Zavyalova

Seeds

When purchasing seed material, choose varieties recommended for your area - they are better adapted to the local climate and are more reliable. How do you know that a particular variety is zoned, since this information is usually not indicated on seed packets? Buyers have to trust sellers and specialized literature.

Clarifications from the editors

A zoned variety is a variety included in the current “Register of Breeding Achievements” Russian Federation"and recommended for cultivation in one or several regions (it is in them that it has already successfully passed state tests).

Those with the Internet can find out whether a variety is zoned or not by going to the official resource “ State Commission Russian Federation for testing and protection of selection achievements": gossort.com. We find the “Registry” section there and go to “ State Register selection achievements approved for use.” We select the crop we need (for example, we took zucchini) and open the corresponding plate with varieties.

It may seem complicated, but we only need three adjacent columns - the name of the variety, its “year of birth” and recommended cultivation regions, indicated by numbers from 1 to 12.

Residents of Bryansk, Vladimir, Ivanovo, Kaluga, Moscow, Ryazan, Smolensk and Tula regions belong to the Central region. In the register it is always designated by the number 3. Gardens of summer residents of Vologda, Kaliningrad, Kostroma, Leningrad, Novgorod, Pskov, Tver and Yaroslavl regions are located in the North-West region, which is marked with the number 2.

If the number of your region is indicated next to the variety, it means it is zoned there. For example, our table recommends Apollo, Astoria and Aeronaut zucchini for the Moscow region, and Arlika and Aeronaut for the Leningrad region.

How many seeds do you need?

You can follow the seeding norms. For the final calculation, you need to know the approximate area of ​​the beds.

Seed sowing rate, g/1 m2
Culture	Consumption
Pumpkin, zucchini, squash	0,3-0,5
Peas	15-25
Cabbage	0,2-0,3
Carrots, parsley	0,4-0,6
Radish	1,5-2,0
Radish	0,5-1,0
Turnip	0,1-0,2
Salad	0,1-0,3
Beetroot	0,8-1,6
Beans	7-14

"Repeaters"

Last year's seeds should not be used without checking germination. This is done like this: you need to take 10-100 seeds of each type of vegetable, spread them in an even layer between sheets of paper napkins, place them on a plate and moisten them well. The temperature should always be around 20 °C, and the napkin should be damp all the time. After seed germination, conclusions are drawn: if germination does not exceed 10%, then sowing does not make sense. If 40% of the seeds have germinated, you need to double the seeding rate.

Preparing for sowing

There are many ways pre-sowing preparation seeds aimed at obtaining friendly shoots healthy plants and increasing productivity.

First you need to select the largest and most “poured” seeds. Tomato and pumpkin seeds (except cucumber) are kept in a 1% solution of potassium permanganate for 20 minutes and then washed in water. Against fungal and bacterial diseases of cabbage, carrots, parsley, celery and beets, the seeds are heated in water at a temperature of 45-50 °C for 20 minutes, followed by cooling.

Photo: AiF/T.Zavyalova

Attention!

All methods of “home” pre-sowing preparation refer to seed material that has not passed industrial processing. If the seeds are colored bright colors, they are sown without additional manipulations.

Soaking is carried out immediately before sowing. The seeds swell, their shell softens and is freed from substances that delay germination. Pumpkin seeds, cabbage, turnips, rutabaga, radishes, radishes and legumes need twice as much water for soaking, and carrots, parsley, parsnips, dill, beets, lettuce and onion seeds need four times as much.

The duration of soaking at a temperature of 20-25 °C also depends on the crop. For cabbage, lettuce, turnips, radishes, rutabaga, radishes, pumpkin, 12 hours are needed; for tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, beets, carrots, parsley, dill, parsnips, celery - 48 hours, and the water must be changed 2-3 times a day. .

Photo: AiF/ N. Belyavskaya

The arrival of an early harvest is accelerated by additional seed stimulation. An infusion of wood ash is suitable for it: 2 tbsp. spoons are poured with 1 liter of water, left for 1 day, then the seeds are kept in the strained solution for 6 hours. A 24-hour “bath” of seeds in diluted aloe juice is effective: 1 part juice to 2 parts water.

The soil

The loose root layer gives the roots the opportunity to breathe without interference and develop well. As a result root system absorbs nutrients more efficiently, which will have a positive effect on plants and harvests. If the soil is loose, it is easier to fight weeds and pests.

Sowing and planting of cold-resistant crops should be carried out when the soil is in a soft plastic state. It is not difficult to determine: the soil easily rolls into a non-disintegrating rope 3-4 mm thick and does not stain your hands ( we're talking about about loamy and clay soils. - Note ed. ). During this period, the soil has already warmed up sufficiently and contains the optimal amount of moisture. She remains in this state for about two weeks.

Photo: AiF/E. Shutova Plants contain quite a lot of water. She maintains them in an elastic state and participates in all vital important processes. With the help of water, nutrients move throughout the plant body, and evaporation protects it from overheating. With its deficiency, vegetables become coarse, tough, and bitter in taste. On the contrary, if there is an excess of water during cultivation, the products will be watery, low in flavor, and tasteless.

If the soil breaks up into small pieces when rolled, but still forms a cohesive piece when squeezed, this is a hard-plastic state, which means that the seeds and seedlings will require additional watering. If, when squeezed, the lump does not change shape and the pieces do not stick together, then the conditions for seed germination and seedling survival are very poor: there is no water in the top layer of soil.

Spring digging

It is necessary to dig up the soil right before sowing or planting so that the moisture does not evaporate. If the digging is done and the sowing is postponed, the prepared bed can be covered old film, carefully pressing the edges with soil or stones.

In the spring they dig up with obligatory rotation of the formation. Even if you did the same work in the fall, this activity must be repeated in the spring in order to detect and select the rhizomes of perennial weeds and soil pests - wireworms (larvae of the click beetle) and others. At the same time, fertilizers and other additives can be incorporated into the soil.

What to contribute?

Before digging, spread evenly over the entire surface of the emerging ridge. mineral fertilizers. For 1 m2 add: ammonium nitrate, superphosphate, chlorine-free potassium fertilizer (30 g of each per 1 m2) or complex fertilizers containing nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium (100-120 g). Organic fertilizers are added right along the way to every third or fourth groove between the dug and undug parts of the soil.

Fresh manure can only be applied to cucumbers, zucchini, and pumpkins (5-8 kg per 1 m2). If you “treat” potatoes with it, it will cause scab; carrots, parsnips, and root parsley will react by branching their roots; the bulbs of manured onions will ripen later. Semi-rotted manure and compost are applied under cabbage, potatoes, rutabaga (4-6 kg per 1 m2). Carrots, parsley, parsnips, celery, onions, radishes, lettuce, and dill are grown in areas where organic fertilizers were applied last year. On poor soils, 2-3 kg per 1 m2 of only completely decomposed manure or compost (humus) can be added to these crops. Duration of action organic fertilizers on heavy soils- up to 3-4 years, on sandy ones - up to 2 years.

If there is a need for liming in the spring, then chalk, slaked quicklime, dolomite flour, cement dust, wood ash and other calcium-containing materials - 300-500 g per 1 m2 - are scattered evenly on the soil surface along with mineral fertilizers and immediately dug up to prevent loss of nitrogen from mineral fertilizers.

Do you need garden beds?

In the conditions of the North-West and in damp areas vegetable crops It is better to grow on ridges or ridges - the soil in them warms up faster in the spring and is freed from excess moisture. On light soils, beds are made up to 10 cm high, on loamy soils - up to 15-20, a convenient width is 1 m. During the formation of the beds, the soil is loosened and leveled with a rake. The edges are formed so that along them there are ridges 5-8 cm high: they will prevent the soil from washing away during watering or rain.

Nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K) are the main nutrients that plants need. What they need most is nitrogen, which promotes the growth of green leaves. Phosphorus gives plants energy and promotes root development, creates disease resistance and affects flower and fruit set. Potassium is involved in the formation of tissues and the construction of the entire plant, promotes the development of powerful roots. Increases plant resistance to diseases and their cold resistance, ensures better preservation of products. In addition to the three elements mentioned above, plants need calcium, magnesium and trace elements in small quantities. In addition to them, vegetable crops need humus (humus).

Sowing

The optimal temperature for germination of seeds of cold-resistant vegetable plants is 20-25 °C, and of heat-loving ones - 25-30 °C.

Photo: AiF/ N. Belyavskaya

Sowing dates*

Sowing begins when the soil at a depth of 10 cm warms up to 3-5 °C.  Around this time, coltsfoot blooms en masse. You can sow cold-resistant crops: carrots, parsnips, parsley, dill, radishes, spinach, turnips, onions (with seeds), lettuce, Chinese cabbage, peas, coriander (cilantro), watercress, leaf mustard. At the same time, seedlings of early and late white cabbage, kohlrabi, and broccoli are planted.

From May 20, when the soil warms up to 5-8 °C (the benchmark is that birch leaves reach the size of a 10-kopeck coin), it’s time to sow beets and beans. And only in late May - early June, if the soil temperature has risen to 12-15 °C (dandelions bloom), heat-loving crops are sown: cucumber, pumpkin, zucchini, beans, fennel, basil.

Affects all life processes occurring in the plant throughout its existence. And although it may seem to us that we cannot regulate the temperature in the open ground, this is not at all the case. Lighter soils, ridges and ridges, a mulched surface allow the roots to warm up faster during the day and cool less at night, and in places protected from the wind it is always warmer. If the weather is too hot, then refreshing watering will help the plants.

If the cold weather drags on, sowing and planting of heat-loving crops and potatoes can be shifted to more late dates. There's no need to rush here.

Sowing technologies

Before sowing, dry soil must be thoroughly loosened and poured to a depth of at least 15-20 cm, then furrows must be made and the seeds sown, trying to maintain the seeding rate. Thickened sowing will bring you a lot of trouble and problems in the future. The shoots in the “brush” will stretch out, the plants will shade each other.

When sowing any crops, add ash (1 cup per linear meter) or superphosphate (20 g), since phosphorus promotes active growth of the root system from the first days.

The lack of nutrients in the soil affects the plant from the first days, and in the future it is almost impossible to completely compensate for their deficiency. Therefore, the basic pre-sowing and pre-planting application of fertilizers (during digging) is mandatory. In the future, periodic feeding will also be needed.

For normal life Plants need oxygen, not only to all above-ground parts, but also to the roots and seeds sown in the soil. Leaves also need carbon dioxide, which is actively involved in the processes of organic synthesis.

The sowing depth depends on the size of the seeds and soil characteristics. On the lungs loose soils deeper incorporation is required compared to heavy soils. The smaller the seeds, the closer to the surface they should be.

Small seed material of carrots, parsley, onions, radishes, various types cabbage is usually sown to a depth of 1-2 cm. Larger seeds - beets, spinach, cucumber - 2-4 cm. Peas, beans, melon, zucchini and squash are buried 3-5 cm, onion sets - 4-9 cm, pumpkin - 6-10 cm.

It is impossible to water immediately after sowing - water will wash the seeds to a great depth and displace the air necessary for seed germination from the soil pores.

Photo: AiF/T.Zavyalova

Nuances

Zucchini, squash and cucumber seeds cannot be germinated. In the future, this threatens diseases of the root system - rot. They can only be soaked for 12-24 hours in aloe extract, or in an infusion of ash, or in a solution of baking soda (5 g per 1 liter of water) or soluble complex fertilizer (1 g per 1 liter). In the same solutions you can soak the seeds of beets, onions, radishes and other crops.

It’s good if tall plants grow in open ground on adjacent rows on both sides of the cucumber and zucchini: beans, corn, peas. With such protection, the air temperature in cool weather around the “sissies” will be 2-5 °C higher than in the open space.

Early ripening greens: dill, lettuce, coriander, watercress, Chinese cabbage can be sown in portions throughout the summer at intervals of 10-15 days. In the North-West, it is better to sow radishes before the end of May, then take a break for the period of white nights until the end of July. With long daylight hours, this crop does not form a root crop, but immediately proceeds to flowering.

Crops can be covered with old film, paper or light, allowing air and moisture to pass through. non-woven material. Netkanka can remain on the ridges long time- under it, young plants will be better protected from frost, and then from pests.

Seeds germinate if there is at least 10% oxygen in the soil air. Usually it is sufficient, but with severe waterlogging, dense soil and under the soil crust, gas exchange in germinating seeds becomes difficult, which often leads to oppression and death of seedlings.

Landing

When planting any seedlings in a permanent place, it is good to add 0.5 handfuls of humus, 5-6 peas of superphosphate or one tablespoon of ash into each hole.

Deadlines

From about May 20, you can plant seedlings of cauliflower, celery, head lettuce, onions, onion sets, garlic, potatoes, and seedlings of medium varieties of white cabbage.

The end of May is the right time to plant broccoli, kohlrabi, and leek seedlings in open ground.

Seedlings of tomato and pumpkin crops are assigned to a permanent place of residence in the open air no earlier than June 10, when the danger of frost has passed. In the greenhouse, tomatoes, peppers, and cucumbers are planted earlier - be guided by the weather and cover the plants just in case.

This is the main source of energy that is spent on the formation (synthesis) of organic matter in leaves, vitamins and other necessary for the plant connections. Everyone needs light vegetable plants, but some crops are considered more demanding (these are vegetables with edible fruits: tomato, pepper, cucumber, eggplant, pumpkin, beans), others - less (root vegetables, lettuce, cabbage, perennial vegetables).

Photo: AiF/ N. Belyavskaya

Landing nuances

Onion bulbs for seedlings for easy germination before planting are soaked in warm (40 ° C) water for 2-6 hours and cut “at the shoulders” if it has not yet sprouted, or the bottom is cut crosswise.

It is better to plant seedlings of all crops in the evening; before planting, the holes are watered abundantly to the depth of the arable layer. Plants are buried in the soil up to the first true leaf, being careful not to cover the growing point. The soil around the plants is mulched with a 1-2 cm layer of peat, wet compost, humus and not watered, but only sprinkled with water. Post-planting watering will compact the soil, which may become crusty.

To be on the safe side, the planted seedlings can be covered with non-woven material.

It is important to prevent thickening, thin out and remove weeds in a timely manner. It is better to place rows of plants from north to south so that they are evenly illuminated in the first and second half of the day. In a greenhouse, it is advisable to keep the roof clean: wash glass or polycarbonate, replace the film on time.

Hello, dear friends!

Winter is over. A new one begins summer season, with its pleasant chores and varied efforts to obtain excellent harvests vegetables, berries and fruits. Let's talk about what gardening in early spring It is advisable to carry out this in order to then reduce your load, when the hottest time comes, of digging up the earth and creating new beds, planting seedlings and sowing various crops, weeding and watering.

Until the snow melts, experienced gardeners store it in water containers (barrels, tanks, bathtubs, etc.). When planting vegetable crops in greenhouses or in April on beds, melt water will come in handy.

Pruning branches and fertilizing trees and shrubs

Before sap flow begins, trees and fruit bushes (deciduous) should be pruned. This can be done on the first warm days, even if there is still snow. It is better to carry out this work in the very morning, while the ground is frozen and the snow is dense, so that it is convenient to walk around the area.

First of all, large branches are removed. Then it is necessary to carefully examine the bark of the trees, and if infected areas are found, it must be cleaned. Excess branches, as well as those damaged, broken over the winter, dry, brittle or diseased, also need to be pruned and then burned.

Coniferous trees and shrubs, if there are any on your site, are pruned much later - in April-May. While there is snow, trees and shrubs should be fertilized. After the snow melts, you should loosen the soil in the tree trunks and thoroughly water each tree.

General garden cleaning

This stage of work is the most labor-intensive; it is carried out after the snow has completely melted. Even late autumn you have cleared the area of ​​fallen leaves and put it in complete order; all the same, various garden debris accumulates over the winter: large mulch (spruce branches, tree branches), which is sometimes used to cover the beds and retain snow on them, windbreaks, the remains of various shelters and supports, etc. .d.

Whitewashing trunks

This advice is for those summer residents who did not whitewash tree trunks in the autumn, and also did not engage in this type of work in February. To prevent fruit trees from being damaged by the bright spring sun, you need to wrap their trunks with light paper or newspapers just above the ground surface.

This protective cover can be removed before whitewashing, which is carried out after the snow melts and the temperature rises above +5°C. But you shouldn’t delay whitewashing; it needs to be done before the buds awaken and the first greenery appears, because after warming up the earth will wake up hibernation insect pests that overwintered in it. Don't forget to repair wounds and other deep damage to trees. Whitewashing is especially important for young plants.

Treating trees with insecticides

When the average daily temperature reaches +5°C, spraying is carried out garden trees and bushes against infectious diseases and dangerous insects. This work must be done before the first leaves appear.

Treatment with insecticides is necessary against pests and their egg laying overwintering on the bark of trees: apple worm, all varieties of aphids, fruit mites, apple moths (caterpillars), leaf rollers, etc.

Planting and replanting plants

Early spring is an excellent time to plant new shrubs (raspberries, currants, gooseberries, sakura), fruit trees and flowers. The most active growth and development of the plant root system occurs at soil temperatures from +5°C to +12°C, and this happens either in autumn or early spring. It is believed that it is preferable to plant shrubs and trees in the spring, since in the fall the new inhabitants of your garden do not have enough time to adapt before the onset of persistent cold weather.

Other works

Lilies and daffodils are quite frost-resistant, so when the layer of snow becomes very thin or it melts completely, you can free these plants from winter shelters.

At the end of February, vegetable crops are sown for seedlings (tomatoes, peppers, cabbage, etc.), which will be planted in open ground after the end of frost or in greenhouses (much earlier).

With the arrival of spring, not only nature comes to life, but our loved ones garden plots, and also ourselves. This period is a rebirth of new strength and a surge of joy from communicating with the earth. I wish you a good time gardening in early spring and good harvests to you next season! See you!

Spring will soon come, which will bring seasonal spring work in the garden, which, to be honest, I personally miss..

In the second ten days of March, you can remove the protective cover of trees and bushes (spruce branches, straw, etc.). I recommend doing this work on a cloudy day, then the plants will not suffer from sudden temperature changes.

Make sure that melt water does not stagnate near the trees - this leads to damping off of the bark.

It’s important to check how you survived the winter fruit crops, - and treat all damage to the bark with garden varnish. If there are trees in the garden that have been badly damaged by rodents, you can try to save it by doing.

If you have not trimmed trees or shrubs for the winter, it is worth doing this in the period between the melting of the snow cover and the noticeable swelling of the buds (but before they bloom). This simple operation when damaged, diseased and dry branches are removed ( sanitary pruning), stops the development of diseases, increases productivity and generally prolongs the life of garden crops.

Pruning trees and shrubs

It is worth mentioning other types of this procedure.

Thus, shaping helps to give the crown of a young plant the desired size and shape. This not only stimulates fruiting, but also makes harvesting easier.

Maintenance pruning carried out annually on mature trees and bushes to ensure intensive growth, fruiting and maintaining the shape of the crown.

Regulatory trimming helps control the level of load on the branches during fruiting (usually combined with support).

Restorative pruning Trees with an overly developed crown are needed, as well as those whose branches are severely frozen in winter or have received other damage.

Anti-aging pruning carried out for old trees that have begun to produce less yield - this stimulates their productivity.

Until sap flow begins (until mid-March), stone fruit crops are vaccinated.

Spring treatment against pests and plant diseases

Simultaneously with the awakening of plants, pests and pathogens of certain diseases become active. In early spring, almost everything permitted for use can be used against them. personal plots pesticide.

With normal pest activity (if neither yours nor your neighbor’s garden suffered from their invasion last year), it will be enough to apply urea, Bordeaux mixture yu, copper or inkstone.

So, in order to prevent the development of scab, moniliosis, cocomycosis, peach curl, dormant buds are sprayed with 1-2% Bordeaux mixture at average daily temperature+3-4°C (repeat after 10 days).

If there are signs of cytosporosis (red-brown spots on which you can see an accumulation of spores in the form of black tubercles), the affected areas must be cleaned to healthy tissue (very thin shoots are simply removed).

Wounds are treated with copper (3%) or iron (6%) sulfate and covered with garden pitch. Against fungal diseases, 3% Bordeaux mixture is usually used. For this purpose, plants can also be treated with a 5% urea solution.

And don’t forget about your lawn, you can read about spring work on it.

Whitewashing trees

After the snow has completely melted, spring whitewashing is carried out - this simple measure will reliably protect the trees from sunburn, as well as from pests. You can, of course, buy a ready-made mixture.

Or you can make it yourself: for a ten-liter bucket take 2.5 kg of freshly slaked lime or chalk, 400-500 g melted in hot water copper sulfate and 100 g of casein glue.

Ready mixture Bring to the consistency of thick sour cream, diluting with plain water.

Before active growth begins, perennial flowers are divided and planted: hostas, chrysanthemums, etc. Seedlings of daisies and forget-me-nots, violas and calendulas, in general, all your favorite annuals that are resistant to possible frosts are planted in the flower beds. Ornamental trees and trees are replanted.

We take out what we prepared last year. Feed bulbous, perennial and early flowering daffodils, tulips and hyacinths. For this, the following mineral fertilizers are used (per 1 sq. m): urea - 20 g, superphosphate - 20 g, potassium salt - 15 g. After which the ground around the sprouted sprouts is loosened and watered.

If frosts are no longer forecast, it’s time to remove the coverings from the roses. To protect plants from burning, first remove them for a few hours in partial shade. After ten days, the cover is completely removed.

In the second ten days of April, roses are pruned. You cannot hesitate: a timely procedure stops the spread of diseases and stimulates the development of young shoots. At the same time, on remontant roses, 6-8 buds are left on each shoot. On hybrid tea and polyantha trees, leave 2-3 buds, and on climbing and park bushes, carefully inspect the bushes and remove only dead, broken and weak branches.

In the last ten days of April, sprouted gladioli bulbs are planted (with an interval of 10-15 cm, leaving 20-25 cm between rows). Before planting, they are kept in a weak solution of potassium permanganate for 20 minutes.

The bulbs can be divided into several parts (depending on the number of sprouts), treating the injured surface with brilliant green or charcoal powder.

It is advisable to grow gladioli in one place for no more than two years.

Don't forget to pay attention and indoor flowers— most of them need to be replanted and fed.

While there is still time, think carefully about it. However, keep in mind: some vegetables develop well when surrounded by some crops and wither when surrounded by others. Our tables will help you understand everything.

garden crops	desired neighbors	unfriendly neighbors
Eggplant	Beans
Beet	Onion, kohlrabi	Beans
Cabbage (cauliflower, kohlrabi, broccoli)	Potatoes, celery, dill, sage, rosemary, beets, onions	Strawberries, tomatoes, beans
Potato	Beans, corn, cabbage, horseradish, calendula, eggplant	Pumpkin, cucumber, tomato, raspberry
	Beans, spinach, lettuce	Cabbage
Corn	Potatoes, peas, beans, cucumber, pumpkin
Onion and garlic	Beetroot, strawberries, tomato, lettuce, garden savory	Peas, beans
Leek	Onions, celery, carrots
Carrot	Peas, lettuce, onion, rosemary, sage, tomato	Dill
Cucumber	Beans, corn, peas, radishes, sunflowers	Potatoes, aromatic herbaceous plants
Parsley	Tomato, asparagus
Peas	Carrots, radishes, cucumber, calendula, corn, eggplant	Onions, garlic, gladiolus, potatoes
Radish	Peas, nasturtium, lettuce, cucumbers	Hyssop
Lettuce	Carrots, radishes, strawberries, cucumber
Celery	Leek, tomato, beans, cabbage
Sunflower	Cucumber	Potato
Asparagus	Tomato, parsley, basil
Tomato	Onion, parsley, asparagus, calendula, nasturtium	Kohlrabi, cabbage, potatoes, fennel
Turnip	Peas
Pumpkin	Nasturtium, corn	Potato
Beans	Potatoes, carrots, cucumbers, cabbage, garden savory	Onion, garlic, gladiolus
Spinach	Strawberries
Basil	Tomato	Ruta
Rosemary	Cabbage, onion
Sage	Rosemary, cabbage, carrots	Cucumber

From the beginning of March, they begin to grow seedlings of most vegetable and flower crops. Seedling method allows you to get early harvests and also significantly reduce seed costs.

Optimal timing of sowing and planting vegetable crops

vegetable crops	Seedling period (days)	Timing of sowing seeds	Time frame for planting seedlings in a permanent location
Pepper	60-70		First-second ten days of May
Onion	60-70	Third ten days of February - First ten days of March	First-second ten days of May
Celery root	60-70	Third ten days of February - First ten days of March	First-second ten days of May
Early cabbage	45-55	Third ten days of February - First ten days of March	Second or third ten days of April
Medium late cabbage	30-35	Third ten days of April - first ten days of May	Third ten days of May - First ten days of June
Late cabbage	35-45	First-second ten days of April	Second or third ten days of May
Tomato for the greenhouse	45-55	Second ten days of March	First ten days of May
Tomato for open ground	40-55	Second ten days of April	First ten days of June
Cucumber for protected soil	25-35	Second ten days of April	First-second ten days of May

From mid-March, pre-sowing tillage is carried out. When the soil dries out and acquires a light gray color, it is checked for maturity: a small lump is squeezed in the hand. If moisture does not seep or drip between your fingers, the soil is ready for cultivation.

The beds dug up in the fall are cultivated and harrowed with rakes. Untreated areas in the fall are dug up with the addition of compost, superphosphate and ash.

Features of growing vegetable seedlings

vegetables	Seed shelf life (years)	germination temperature (°C)	Germination time (days)	Seeding rate (g/sq.m)	Bookmark depth (cm)
Eggplant	3-5	20-30	10	4-6	1,5
Melon	6-8	20-30	8	4-6	2
Zucchini	6-8	20-30	10	4-6	2,5
White cabbage, savoy, broccoli, cauliflower	4-5	20-25	8-10	2-3	2,5
Cucumber	6-8	20-30	7	2-3	2
Squash	5-8	20-30	10	2-3	2,5
Sweet pepper	3-4	20-30	15	7-8	1,5
Hot pepper	3-4	20-30	12	7	1,5
Celery	2-3	20-30	14	2	1,5
Tomato	8-9	20-30	10	7	1,5

To grow strong seedlings, follow these simple rules:

1. Carry out calibration - immerse cucumber and zucchini seeds in clean water, and tomatoes - in a 3% salt solution (1 tbsp per 1 liter of water). Seeds that float are not good.
2. Seeds from domestic producers (imported ones are usually already processed) for disinfection, hold for 30 minutes in a pink solution of potassium permanganate, and then rinse in a chilled boiled water. After that, spread them out thin layer on gauze and put it in the refrigerator for five days.
3. To obtain early harvest carrots, parsley, celery and onions, their seeds can be sprouted. To do this, they are soaked in a fabric bag for half a day and kept in a warm place until they hatch. And after that they sow.
4. Representatives of the pumpkin family have a very delicate root system and do not tolerate transplantation. To keep the seedlings of cucumber, pumpkin, squash and zucchini healthy, they are sown in individual peat pots. Vegetables can be sown in seedling boxes no more than 10 cm deep, followed by planting in a container bigger size when the first 1-2 true leaves appear).
5. Seedlings are watered abundantly before diving. Then, using a special peg, a depression is made in the prepared substrate, into which the root and part of the stem (up to the cotyledon leaves) of the seedling are lowered. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the roots do NOT bend. For better development, the central root can be pinched by 1/3. When diving, you should hold the plant not by the tender stem, but by the cotyledon leaves.
6. Water the seedlings as needed, since both a lack and an excess of water are equally harmful. If it is necessary to slow down growth, watering is limited. It is believed that in this case the root system will be stronger, more developed and branched. It is best to carry out abundant, but rare watering in the morning.
7. 12-14 days before planting, the seedlings begin to harden: they are taken outside for several hours, with less watering. During this period, the plants can be treated with a 1% Bordeaux mixture. Fertilizing with potassium fertilizers after heavy watering also gives good results - this strengthens the roots.

Warm spring and good harvest!

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