Can you plant cherries? The choice and time of planting cherry seedlings. Soil Requirements

Apple tree, full of trees and loaded with fresh apples - a very bewitching sight.

Creating such an orchard is a great idea for both giving and personal courtyard.

But such a garden brings not only a generous amount of sweet apples, but also a lot of trouble. In order to reduce them, produceplanting apple trees at a certain distance from each other and maintain a distance from other garden crops.

How far apart should apple trees be planted?

Even in a limited area of ​​\u200b\u200b"six acres", you can find the most favorable placement for all trees.

After all correct placement of fruit trees in private gardens and gardens, including the distance between when planting - one of the most important conditions in the system for obtaining excellent yields, also aimed at maintaining apple trees in excellent health.

ADVICE: The planting pattern for apple trees always varies depending on the climate of the growing region and the size of the orchard.

If apple trees are on a dwarf rootstock?

Bush dwarf types of varieties have arisen relatively recently and at present they are often used when laying apple orchards, both micro and macro sizes.

They are advised to be planted in one row with an inter-row spacing of 4.3 meters and at a distance of 2.2-2.7 meters from the seedling to the seedling, this is if the garden is small.

If the area is larger, then they are planted on trellises, in rows. And in the inter-row space there should be at least 4.5 m, between the trees - 2 m.

Planting rows of apple trees on a dwarf rootstock.

If “bush trees” are bought, then the determination at what distance to plant an apple tree from an apple tree will depend on the number of rows:

• In one line with a meter distance between the trees;
• Row from row - three meters.

Semi-dwarf and dwarf variants sometimes planted and "lines" with a gap between them of 2.5 m interspersed with other garden crops.

If the garden has strict geometric shapes, then the apple trees should be planted taking into account a previously worked out plan, but even there it is not worth planting them closer than a meter apart.

Even dwarf trees can give rise to impenetrable thickets if they are planted with "neglect of distances".

If the garden is more than 10 acres, then for dwarfs set the distance between apple trees when planting:

• Between rows at 3.5 m.;
• Inside a row from 1.7 m to 2.6 m, in the presence of supporting structures.

If they grow without installing support, then:

• Between the trees should be left 150-200 cm;
• Four meters between rows.

On a semi-dwarf rootstock

Semi-dwarfs differ from dwarf apple trees in that have a greater power of crown growth in height.

If when laying an apple orchard they use seedlings on a semi-dwarf rootstock or undersized species, which were grafted on the basis of seedlings, then the smallest distance should be at least three meters, and from row to row - approximately 5 meters.

If the size of the apple plantations is large, then it is necessary to plant "map". This is when 10 rows are planted on a plot of 50 by 100 meters, 5 meters between rows, inside the trees themselves are located at a distance of at least 375 cm, but it is better to focus on 400-450 cm.

Layout of columnar apple trees.

With this placement, further care will be simplified, and the garden will not turn into a forest over time.

When it is necessary to plant no more than 10 seedlings of semi-dwarfs, then the distance between the apple trees during planting is 4.5 meters between each other, and also between the rows. This will guarantee the free and easy movement of garden equipment around the site, and the owners themselves with children.

If the varieties are vigorous, then the distance from apple tree to apple tree should be increased to five meters, but if the garden is not going to be especially looked after, then 5.5 meters can be allocated. Since the uncontrolled overgrowing of such trees is a very real thing.

And what is the distance when planting apple trees in a checkerboard pattern?

Checkerboard- this is when the trees of two parallel rows are planted in relation to the adjacent row with a shift.
This placement contributes to a better and more complete use of both the territory of the site and the sun.

The experts of any nursery or large garden recommend the following planting:

• For dwarfs it will take 150 cm in a row from each other;
• For semi-dwarf varieties: 300-375 cm apart;
• Large forms of apple trees on seed rootstocks they will require 500-540 cm from each other.

Between the rows they leave from 3 meters when these are dwarf trees, and up to 5.5 meters for tall ones.

Also staggered planting is often used in palmet gardens "on supports". In this case, the trees of the second row are planted so that they are opposite the empty space between the apple trees of the first row. Then between rows you need 400 centimeters and 200 centimeters between apple trees in a row.

ATTENTION! If the garden cannot be carefully looked after, then it is not worth using a checkerboard planting, this will only aggravate the existence of apple trees, since such a planting will quickly turn the site into a “fruit forest”.

And when landing in a row?

Often single row fit or chain fit is applied only to create fruit alleys from various fruit trees of two different species.

Or to create a "fruit wall" at a high neighbor's fence. This is also good for small areas or for separating one part of a summer cottage from another.

If they want to arrange metal structures for the formation of fanciful forms, such as an arched vault, a fruit wall, then between the seedlings they retain the most minimal space than is usually customary - from 150 to 200 centimeters.

When apple trees are planted in spring, the distance between a number of such trees and the rest of the garden or other cottage structures should be at least four meters and:

ADVICE: It is undesirable to plant a row if it will "cut" the sun to the entire site. Otherwise, when the trees grow and rise to their full height, their shadow will make it impossible to use the plot for garden vegetables.

At what distance to plant apple trees, depending on the strength of growth?

It is allowed to plant apple trees at such a distance that when they grow up, they, filling the space of the garden in all directions, do not interfere with anyone with their growth.

The final height of the tree in adulthood determines the space required between trees in a row and between rows.

The lower the mature height of the trees to be planted, the less space they will take up in the garden.

Rules for planting tall trees.

So dwarf and super dwarf apple trees can grow closer to each other. It is also worth noting that trees grown on dwarf and super-dwarf rootstocks are easier to “adapt” to the trellis.

undersized apple trees

Apple tree "gnome" or "shrub apple" will grow up to 3 m high and wide.

If you need to plant dwarf or spur forms in the garden, it will be enough for them from one and a half meters between apple trees and 2.5 m between rows.

When they spend planting a large number of dwarfs with a special support system, then a super-intensive landing is used. Trees of similar types are usually planted as well-developed biennial trees.

In a row, the gaps between the stems are 75 centimeters, and 4 meters should be left between the rows. After all, dwarf trees are not as hardy as standard trees, and grow best in moderately frosty winters under agrofibre shelter, so they are easier to cover.

• For classic low-growing varieties, but grafted on seedlings and growing in the southern horticultural zone, the smallest distance between the rows of apple trees will be five meters, inside the row-line - about two meters.
• Farm version of a garden of low-growing apple trees - this is when in one row between dwarf apple trees - a meter, between rows four meters;
• And low-growing seedlings should have 2.5 m, and between rows - five meters.

Medium apple trees

If a summer resident wants to lay a garden from medium-sized forms, then a standard size medium-sized tree grows up to 6 meters in height. And if it is not cut correctly, it will grow in width up to 4-5 meters. Because medium-sized apple trees are usually lowered by pruning to 5 meters in height.

If the trees are to be pruned, then the rows in the garden should be planted 5 m from the row, and the trees from 370 to 450 centimeters from each other.

When the trees are pruned in the shape of a cup, then such medium-sized trees, very often grafted onto seed rootstocks, must be planted already in a checkerboard pattern at the same distance of 600 centimeters, both in rows and between them.

Free planting of medium-sized apple trees.

This will provide the apple trees with a comfortable life, and the gardener will have an easy life behind such an apple orchard.

If it is necessary to plant seedlings of medium height forms in a small space suburban area, then these trees require frequent and painstaking pruning, because, if grown almost without pruning, they turn the garden into an impenetrable forest.

Important! And in order to properly care for the crown and harvest, the intervals of free space around the tree from the surrounding trees should be within four meters, and between trees and buildings - 6.5 meters.

tall trees

If, apart from seed rootstocks, there are no seedlings, then only their correct planting will provide the gardener with apples.

Used to be taken far enoughplanttree from tree so that they have a place to receive full sunlight, 9 meters and even 13 meters between apple trees.

Illumination of trees.

But it turned out that such a distance between the trees does not coincide with the biological characteristics of either the species or any variety, and is also unsuitable for the climatic conditions of the area.

If the size of the apple trees can be up to 8-11 meters in height, if they are not cut in any way, they should be planted in a spread of 9 to 12.5 meters.

If standard tall apple trees are pruned, and their height does not exceed five meters, then for such apple trees the best would be landing in a checkerboard pattern, seven meters between apple trees.

Tall seed apple trees themselves, as very hardy, are used for planting a garden in very cold regions, where in winter frosts no more than -28, then they should be planted thicker.

So, if for the gardens of the Non-Black Earth Region the garden is planted according to the scheme of 4.5 meters between the trees and 5.5 between the "lines", if the garden is mechanized, then the aisles "broaden" up to 6-7 meters.

And in the southern regions of the Russian Federation, apple trees on seed stocks are recommended to be planted 10 x 10 meters, but in a checkerboard pattern.

How to plant an apple tree from an old apple tree?

Sometimes you have to plant a young apple tree next to the old one. And here you need to know its variety, type of branching and fruiting period, then it will be clear at what distance from each other to plant apple trees.

The same questions should be solved by a farmer who received an old apple orchard, who is sorry to uproot everything, but the gaps between the apple trees themselves are huge or there are attacks in the plantings themselves.

To avoid confusion and put everything right, it is important to understand the following:

• It is desirable to plant trees similar in strength and fruiting time (this does not apply to small country gardens);
• You cannot plant a new apple tree in the same place (+2 meters around) where the old apple tree once grew;
• In the northern regions of horticulture, the distance in a row is as follows: for tall apple trees: 5-7 meters; for medium: 4-5m; and for dwarfs - about three meters, in the south they add 2 meters to these figures.

IMPORTANT! The distance between trees depends on the type of rootstock, soil fertility and pruning.

• In the south in small gardens a tree large sizes are planted 7-9 meters from a neighboring tree;
• While from a tree that has reached 6 meters, you need to retreat 5 meters to plant new apple trees.
• And the dwarfism of the rootstock of new seedlings will make it possible to compact the row with new trees, planting them every three meters.

Distance between apple trees and other trees and bushes

Wanting to extract as much product as possible from a unit plot, many gardeners with small individual plots resort to mixed landing trees, in which other fruit species of shrubs and trees are planted in the rows of apple trees.

But with the wrong choice of distances, the total collection of both apples and berries decreases. This is one of the most common mistakes beginner gardeners make.

Correct planting of an apple tree in relation to other plants.

When planning a place on the estate for seedlings, one must take into account the compatibility of these fruit trees and other cultivated plants.

CAREFULLY! Apple trees and most garden plants do not get along well with each other.

But an excessive increase in the distances between apple trees and other crops, in turn, is also unreasonable, since the number of fruit-bearing crops per unit area decreases.

How much for a pear?

To a pear grafted on low-growing rootstocks, the distance must be made 4-5 m. From a strong-growing apple tree to a vigorous-growing pear, 9 m.

How about cherry?

Distances between large tree-like cherries are at least 6 m, and between bushy cherries a distance of 3.5 m.

Space when disembarkinglowcherries and apple trees they usually leave 2.5 m. The same amount if it is a felt cherry.

Garden layout.

How about a plum?

So when sealing the plum a distance of at least 3.5 m for dwarf and columnar apple trees, for others - 4.5 meters.

In the case of the cultivation of ordinary large-sized varieties, the smallest removal of the plum to the apple tree is 6-8 meters.

How about cherry?

If both trees are undersized, then four meters should be left between them. When the trees in this pair are both strong and tall, they are seated at least 6.5 meters.

Watch a video about the compatibility of fruit trees:

How about currants?

The distance from the bush to dwarf and columnar apple trees is 1.25-1.5 m. And 2.5-3 meters if they are tall trees.

And from conifers to apple trees?

When planting apple trees, they are placed from any conifers for 8-12 meters. If possible, it is desirable to remove conifers from the apple orchard altogether.

Distance from birch to apple tree?

The distance between these trees leaves 4-5 meters, but for seed apple trees it is better to increase it to 8 meters.

Distance to apricot?

Between firehouses and apple trees there should be at least 6.5 m. Between low-growing apricots and low apple trees - 5 m.

Nice planting of fruit trees.

Distance to the garden with vegetables and potatoes?

In a young apple orchard located 1-1.5 m from the trunks. If this is an intensive orchard with mechanized processing, then vegetables can only be grown with a meter-wide ribbon located in the center of the aisle.

And the distance to the lilac bush?

Between the lilac and the apple tree, you can leave from 4 m if the apple tree is a dwarf. If the bush is large and the apple tree is high, then 6m is needed.

Between an apple tree and a row of raspberries?

Between a row of ordinary raspberries and a low apple tree "in the sun" they leave 2-2.5 m. If it is remontant raspberries and tall trees, then 4 meters.

And to the barberry bushes?

Barberry is generally undesirable in the seed garden!

How far can you plant roses?

If this is a rose garden, then the distance is 5-7 m to apple trees. If you just want to plant a couple of rose bushes, then you can plant them 4 meters before the tree.

Distance between crops on the plot.

At what distance can apple trees be planted in relation to parts of the site?

There are the following reasons for "such distances":

1. Building destruction or the device of walls, fences with massive overgrown roots;
2. Crown and roots next to highways and communications hinder repair work on these objects;
3. This is obstacle to extinguishing a fire.

How far from neighbors fence?

The interval to the neighbor's fence and all kinds of apple trees on the site should be as follows:

1. If the tree is tall, then the smallest is 4 meters;
2. If it is a medium-sized and small tree, then about two meters;
3. And dwarfs can be landed from 1 meter to the boundary.

Fence distances.

And from the house to the apple tree?

Low - 4 meters, seed and tall: 8 meters.

Useful videos

Watch a video about choosing the distance between apple trees:

An interesting video about the scheme of planting trees in an intensive garden:

Another video about the distance between trees:

And from the cesspool and toilet?

Between them they leave 2-2.5 m, if it is a closed septic tank, and 4-6m, if the usual type.

And to the barn from the apple tree?

Here they keep a distance of only 1 m, if these are dwarf varieties or a barn without a foundation. But not less than 3 meters from capital buildings with a foundation.

From the border of the plot to the tree?

From borders to apple trees:

• 2 m dwarf trellis;
• 2.5-3 m columnar type;
• 5-4 m medium tall with annual pruning;
• 6 m too, but without it;
• 8-9 m seed apple tree, but without any care and pruning.

At what distance can apple trees of the same variety be planted?

Columnar

Between themselves in a row: from 75 centimeters to one and a half meters. If there are several rows and there are mechanisms, then you need 4 meters, but not, then you can leave 2.5 - 3 meters.

Antonovka

It must be planted at a distance five meters from a nearby trunk. And if they are seated in “lines”, then the gap between them will be equal to six meters.

Spartan

It is necessary to leave 4 meters to other trees. If the apple tree is without proper pruning, then 5 meters.

Melba

From it to other varieties it is necessary that there are about 3 meters. But a little more than 4m is better.

Apple trees of the same variety.

Golden

It must be seated five meters apart. If the stock is undersized, then you can reduce the distance to 4 m.

Royalty

Between the trees themselves 3.5-4 m. If they are grafted on tall seedlings, then 5 meters.

Conclusion

Watch the video gardener's experience of planning a garden:

Plant apple trees correctly and at the right distance. And let the garden please with an abundance of delicious and juicy apples!

In contact with

And steppe cherries are shrubs.

Our story is dedicated to the common cherry (Prunus cerasus), so wonderfully suitable for fragrant and tasty, juices and pies. In this article, we will pay special attention to planting cherries, proper crown formation, subsequent care and receiving a long-awaited harvest as a reward.

After you, following the characteristics of your region, have chosen a variety suitable for your climate, which is described in detail in my other article, we begin to prepare for planting cherries.

cherry planting

Planting cherries is best in spring. From autumn you buy seedlings and dig in for the winter. Shelter for them can serve. When choosing a seedling, make sure that the trunk is about 60 cm, at least 2-2.5 cm in diameter, with a length of skeletal main branches of about 60 cm (this is the size of a two-year-old tree cherry seedling). Cherry seedlings are planted when the soil warms up and the buds have not yet blossomed. Landing pits, as a rule, are prepared already in the fall.

• The soil should be neutral acidity, sandy, sandy or loamy drained. (The article will help determine its type).
• Cherries should not be planted in lowlands where a damp, windy microclimate prevails. She loves bright places.
• Lime the soil beforehand (to reduce its acidity if it is acidic). To do this, scatter about 400 g of lime or dolomite flour per 1 sq. m, dig the soil to the depth of the shovel bayonet, mix with. It can be manure or compost about 15 kg per 1 sq. m. Mineral fertilizers are also added.

Important: Lime and manure are applied at different times, lime the soil before applying organic fertilizers to it!

When planting, take a distance between plants of about 3 m. For cross-pollinated varieties, consider the possibility of pollination. To do this, you will have to plant a total of at least 4 varieties of cherries. They are placed in the garden according to the scheme 2.5 x 3 m with tall trees and 2.5 x 2 m with low ones. The exception is self-pollinated varieties.

1. Dig a planting hole about 80 cm in diameter, about 50 cm deep, maybe 60. When digging a hole, put the top layer of earth to one side, mix it with organic and mineral fertilizers, as well as wood ash (about). Important: Lime and into the planting hole don't contribute so as not to damage the roots!
2. Drive a peg into the center, place the planting mixture in a hole, pouring a cone around the peg to make it more convenient to spread the roots over this pile, then lower the seedling there and spread its roots. It is necessary to ensure that the root neck is at the level of the soil, you can plant centimeters 4 higher, since then the earth will settle. This is done so that there is no decay of the seedling, because the cherry does not like deep planting.
3. Plant the tree trunk on the north side of the peg strictly vertically. Sprinkle the roots with earth and slap a little.
4. Next, make a hole near the seedling, pour a roller of earth around the edges, pour a bucket of water into the hole, and after watering, mulch the soil of the near-stem circle with humus or peat. Tie the seedling carefully to the stake.

cherry care

A young tree of the first year after planting is watered, the soil is loosened with peat or humus

Fertilization

Usually, fertilizers begin to be applied when the cherry begins to bear fruit. The rate of fertilizer is selected based on the condition of the plant and its age. Organic fertilizers are applied every few years, it can be rotted manure or compost. In autumn, feed fruit-bearing cherries with phosphorus and potash fertilizers, and in spring, apply nitrogen (with a lack of nitrogen).

During the growing season, as a rule, two top dressings are carried out. One after flowering, the other two weeks after the first. Fertilizers are applied to young cherries in the near-trunk circle, and when the garden is already full-fledged, then throughout the site. If the acidity level is above the norm, then the soil is limed with dolomite flour, lime. I scatter the ashes from the burning of birch, branches of plums.

Watering

Trees after flowering. This helps them nourish the fruit. Water so that the soil is not acidic, but moistened 40-45 cm deep.

pruning

A feature of cherries is the rapid growth of shoots, due to which the crown is very thickened and a large number of small branches are formed. If the crown is sparse, the fruits are larger, the bouquet twigs live longer (it is on them that cherries form) and the foliage is healthier. Therefore, you need to cut the branches if the shoots are more than 50 cm long, by the way, this will help to avoid baring the branches when the bouquet branches die off. Publications will help you master the intricacies of cropping: In addition, you can take training in ours.

Crown
The best option for cherries is a sparse-tiered crown. Prune cherries in early spring three weeks before buds swell.

Important: a spindle-shaped and flat crown is not suitable for cherries.

They begin to form a crown immediately after planting.

Removal of root growth

To prevent the tree from giving up its nutrients, remove the root shoots. It can be used for rootstocks.

cherry breeding

The seed method of propagation of cherries is used extremely rarely. It is only good for growing the rootstock you will be grafting onto. More often, they use for reproduction, or reproduction by root shoots.

cuttings

• Harvest cuttings in mid-July, cut in the morning, before the heat, from those trees that you want to grow. Green shoots that grow upwards on the south side of a tree or bush work well.
• Wet the cut cuttings with water, remove the upper part with underdeveloped leaves, then cut off a cutting about 12 cm long, having 4 leaves or more, from the remaining shoot.
• Plant the cutting vertically in the planting mix box, deepen its end by 3 cm, slightly pat the soil around the cutting. Planted at a distance of about 7 cm from each other.
• Place the seedlings in a bright, warm room out of direct sunlight for best rooting. You can put supports on the box, and a film on them.
• After rooting, the cuttings are hardened by removing the film.
• The cuttings overwinter in the pits.
• In the spring, you can grow them in a permanent place or grow them.

Growing a healthy fruit-bearing garden is the dream of any land owner. To do this, you need to provide all the trees with a sufficient supply of light, otherwise you can only dream of good harvests, the trees will get sick and damaged by pests. To prevent this from happening, it is required to maintain a certain distance between all fruit trees. How to do this in a limited area of ​​\u200b\u200ba standard cottage? To solve this problem, you need to plan the placement of crops, taking into account all the needs and nuances.

How to determine the right distance

In addition to the exactingness of light, one must also take into account the fact that with close plantings, the root systems of trees are in contact with each other. As a result, some of them will not have enough nutrients. After all, a stronger plant will take them from a weaker one. Be sure to observe the distance from the house, outbuildings and the fence, at least equal to the height of the tree itself. A falling tree, even with its top, can cause serious damage to buildings.

When calculating the interval between trees, one must take into account how they will grow in the future. Therefore, when buying a seedling, you need to ask the seller in detail about the characteristics of the variety. It is best to buy planting material in proven places, nurseries. When purchasing a seedling “from hand”, one cannot be sure that the variety will correspond to the declared one.

So, at what distance to plant fruit trees from each other:

• tall trees, such as vigorous apple trees, pears, apricots, cherries, it is advisable to plant closer than 5-6 m from each other;
• cherries, plums, dwarf pears and apple trees - 3-4 m;
• columnar apple trees - 2 m.

How far apart should fruit trees be planted?

While the trees are small, it is quite possible to occupy the aisles with berry bushes or garden crops. Often gardeners use currants and gooseberries for this, as well as strawberries, potatoes and root crops. The only nuance in this case is that it is impossible to occupy near-stem circles of trees, this is at least a meter in diameter.

How to make a landing plan

To understand how to properly plant fruit trees in a garden plot, you need to study the summer cottage. You need to know the location of groundwater on it, take into account your own and neighboring buildings, be sure to take into account the cardinal points, power lines, the direction of the prevailing and cold wind. Next, a sheet of paper is taken, and all of the above objects are marked in great detail. After that, you should decide what percentage of the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe remaining space can be given to the garden. This is usually the more northern part of the site so that the trees do not block future beds. Next, you should decide what kind of fruit, berry crops are needed, how many early, mid-season, late varieties are needed. Choose the varieties you like and write out the approximate height of each of them.

Orchard planting scheme for bushes and trees according to a stepped planting system:

1. to the north of all are tall trees;
2. closer to the south - medium height;
3. further - low;
4. on the southernmost side there will be strawberries, garden crops.

How to make a compatibility landing plan

The current trend in landscape design involves planting a garden in the form of curtains, hedges, single plantings on a lawn, round gardens. When planning such a placement, more work and knowledge will be required. If possible, it is better to entrust this matter to professionals in order to avoid mistakes and get a high-level result.

Rules for the location of seedlings on the cardinal points

Most fruit crops are photophilous. Mountain ash, barberry, gooseberry, raspberry, wild rose, blackcurrant can tolerate slight shading. Grapes are a very heat-loving plant; they can be placed near a building or hedge on the south or southwest side. Peach, apricot, pear, plum, apple tree need a lot of light. They are planted in the south and southwest. Blackcurrant can be located at the northern border of the site. Red currants and gooseberries - from the western or eastern side. Bushes can also be placed between seedlings of long-growing fruit trees, remembering the rule: the life of berries is about 12-15 years. Then the branches of the trees will close, and nothing can be placed between them.

Resistant varieties of cherries and plums can be located along the direction of the prevailing wind. They will act as a barrier to less resistant crops. In addition, taking into account the prevailing winds, self-fertile varieties are planted so that pollinators are in front of them.

Distance to fence with neighbors

Distance to fence with neighbors

Equally important when planting trees and shrubs is the proximity of the fence with neighbors. There is a law on "Planning and building the territory of gardening (country) associations of citizens", which states that the distance to the neighboring site is at least 4 m for tall trees, 2 m for medium-sized trees and 1 m for shrubs. You also need to take into account the neighbor's house: it should be at least 5 m from it to a tall tree. The law is the law, but in practice often fruit trees grow right on the border of the site. This usually suits both parties, since the neighbors are provided with fruit from them. But when the tree grows old and begins to pose a threat, then the conflict is inevitable. Therefore, it is better to keep the interval.

How to arrange trees on 10 acres

The first step is to take a sheet of graph paper and draw a site plan on a convenient scale.

It is customary to divide the estate into the following zones:

• Living sector. Includes house and surrounding area.
• Rest zone. Usually located within the site.
• Garden. As a rule, occupies the largest space.
• Economic part. Sheds for storing inventory and pets.

Existing and planned paths, fences, fences, underground utilities are also noted. It should also be noted on the plan the wind rose and the relief of the site. Planting should also be planned taking into account the border with neighbors. The garden, as a rule, occupies the northern or northeastern part, but it all depends on the location of a particular site. It is quite possible to occupy the border of the dacha with fruit trees, subject to the distance between tall apple trees, pears, cherries and a fence - 4 m, for plums and other low trees - 3 m, for shrubs - 1 m.

Compatibility of fruit trees and berries

It is good if crop compatibility is taken into account when planning plantings. The fact is that plants emit various substances that, if they enter the soil, can inhibit the culture growing nearby.

Trees of the same species are considered ideal neighbors. But in an amateur garden it is rarely impossible to plant pears separately, apple trees separately, etc. Moreover, each species usually grows from 1 to 3 specimens. The minimum distance to the antagonist culture is 4 m.

Compatibility table of fruit trees and berry bushes

culture	Favorable interaction	Unwanted Neighborhood
Apple tree	raspberries (until the apple tree grows), honeysuckle, quince	all berry bushes, all stone fruits
pear	rowan, currant, apple tree, grapes	barberry, juniper, cherry, sweet cherry
cherry	cherry, plum	rowan, nightshade
plum	elder	pear, apple, raspberry, black currant
apricot	dogwood	apple, pear, plum, peach, cherry, cherry
peach	apricot	apple, pear, cherry, sweet cherry

What to consider when boarding

Don't plant crops that don't grow well in your climate. They require a lot of attention, effort and time, and the result can be disappointing. Then you have to cut and uproot them, replace them with more suitable ones and wait until they grow. It is best to initially choose the planting material that will provide a reliable future for the garden.

On one hundred square meters, with the correct formation of crowns, a maximum of 15 trees will fit. If pruning is not carried out, then half as much. The exception is columnar forms, which can be planted at intervals of 1 m. The ideal arrangement of rows of horticultural crops is from south to north in height. Shade-tolerant crops can be grown in the middle between the rows.

Orchard

If enough space has been allocated to the garden, then it is better to plant berries separately from trees, since subsequently there may be problems when spraying trees at a time when the bushes can no longer be processed.

If there were old trees on the plots that were removed, then you need to take this into account when planning new plantings. A tree during its life chooses the nutrients it needs from the soil, soil fatigue occurs. In addition, diseases and pests characteristic of this type of crop accumulate in the zone of its growth. Therefore, it is important to observe the so-called garden rotation.

There are several principles for the proper circulation of crops in the garden:

• It is impossible to plant a new one of the same species in the place of an old tree. That is, after an apple tree, you cannot plant an apple tree.
• Between planting a crop of the same species as the previous one, at least 5 years must pass.
• It is undesirable to plant crops from the same family one after another. For example, after stone fruits, it is better to plant pome fruits and vice versa.
• To reduce soil fatigue, you can clear the fertile layer of earth (30 cm) from the roots of an old tree.
• Another way to restore the soil is to sow green manure in this place: rapeseed, soybeans, buckwheat.
• Vegetables, herbs or perennial herbs can be grown in the place of the removed crop.

How to plant a garden in a small area

Tips from experienced gardeners for growing fruit trees in a small garden:

1. The most logical solution for a small garden is dwarf trees. For them, it is possible to grow at an interval of 1 m between trees and 2 meters in a row. At the same time, their fruiting begins earlier than tall varieties.
2. Another option is grafting on undersized tree species. The cotoneaster is the most winter-hardy rootstock; it grows well both in the Moscow region and the Leningrad region, and in the Urals and Siberia. Even a pear on it will grow no higher than 2 m. However, a grafted tree requires a slightly different care than an ordinary own-rooted plant.
3. Experienced owners of small gardens are advised to arrange trees in a checkerboard pattern. At the same time, the norm of gaps between trees is maintained, and row spacings are reduced.
4. Also, in a small garden with dense plantings, competent pruning is required. It is necessary to form compact crowns that will not be intertwined with branches with a number of growing trees.
5. It is better to choose the most proven varieties of fruit and berry crops for a small garden. This will help to avoid "downtime" when such expensive square meters will not produce results due to the fact that the selected variety does not bear fruit for several years.

Rarely does a garden do without cherries. And if it is not in it, it is not because the owners do not want to grow it. Most likely, the catch is that they simply do not know how to plant cherries correctly. Although there is nothing complicated in such a planting, there are nuances, the neglect of which leads to a negative result - the cherry "refuses" to grow and bear fruit.

Cherry grows and bears fruit on average up to 15 years. This is the first thing to consider when choosing a place to land it. By planting a small sapling close to the wall of a building or other trees, in the future you will inevitably put yourself in front of a choice: either remove or replant the sapling. Although in fact this is the same thing - cherries do not tolerate transplantation well and often die.

The place for future cherries should be sunny and protected from cold winds as much as possible. Our great-grandfathers often planted cherry trees closer to the fence: additional protection from the wind to the tree, and large snowdrifts near the fences, and deep snow is the best protection of the roots from frost.

When choosing a place for planting cherries, keep in mind that it will not grow on heavy marshy soil. The best option for not considered light, well-drained and breathable soils with a pH close to neutral.

Land for planting is prepared in the fall. Preparation consists in enriching the soil with organic and mineral fertilizers. The earth is fertilized with manure at the rate of approximately 1.5 buckets per 1 m², as well as phosphate and potash fertilizers - 100 g each. per m².

It is better to refrain from using nitrogen fertilizers at the stage of preparation and planting, otherwise you can strongly oxidize the soil and burn the roots of the planted seedlings. Be sure to determine the acidity of the soil in the fall, and, if necessary, carry out deoxidation by liming the area.

Seedling selection

The main thing to consider when choosing a cherry seedling for your garden is that it should be as adapted to your climate as possible.

For regions with cold winters, frost-resistant varieties are suitable:

• Persistent;
• not chilly;
• Chocolate girl.

If frosts do not rage in your area, then it is better to opt for one of the varieties:

• Vladimirovskaya;
• Zhukovskaya;
• Crimson;
• Volochaevka.

If you need to grow cherries on the poor sandy soils of the Urals, then pay attention to the varieties:

• fiery;
• Ashinskaya;
• Lighthouse;
• Ural standard;
• Bolotovskaya.

Even for the harsh Siberian climate, varieties of cherries have been bred:

• Altai early;
• Altai large;
• Altai swallow;
• Snowstorm;
• Maksimovskaya;
• Shadrinskaya.

Often, wanting to save money, novice gardeners try to get a varietal cherry seedling from a sprouted seed or root process. But neither the shoots nor the seedling sprouted from the seed guarantee that the fruits on them will be the same as those of the parent forms. And if we are talking about grafted cherries, then their growth is completely barren. Therefore, it is much more preferable to purchase a seedling in specialized nurseries for planting.

Planting can be carried out both with freshly bought seedlings, and acquired in the fall. In the first case, you will have to choose the best of the worst (in the sense that the best seedlings will be sorted out long before you - even in the fall). But it can be planted right away.

In the second case, you will have a chic choice, but the purchased seedling will need to be kept fresh and healthy until spring. It is not difficult to do this: having acquired a seedling, dig a shallow horizontal hole 35-50 cm in the area and carefully place your purchase in it, sprinkling the roots with earth. To provide the seedling with maximum protection, you need to spread it with a crown to the south.

Then, on top of it, throw a bunch of small pine or spruce branches - the more the better. The spruce branches will protect the buried seedling from frost no worse than straw, but mice or other small rodents will not start under it.

In order for the seedling to be well preserved, it is impossible to dig it in the lowlands, where melt water will accumulate in spring. It is best to do this in the area where the snow lasts the longest in spring. Otherwise, there are no special requirements for the place, the seedling will be transplanted in the spring anyway.

When purchasing a seedling, carefully inspect it. For all varieties of tree-like cherries (we are not talking about felt cherries and other bush subspecies yet), you need to choose a seedling about 1 m high, with a trunk thickness of 2.0-2.5 cm, a well-developed root system and 3-4 skeletal branches with a length of 0 .5-0.6 m. It should not have any growths, swellings, damaged bark, etc.

Plant on time

Cherries are usually planted in spring - from late March to mid-April. Cherry planting time for different climatic zones can vary greatly. Therefore, you need to focus not so much on specific dates, but on a rule common to all regions: you need to plant cherries when the soil thaws and warms up to 10-12 °, but the buds on the seedlings have not yet woken up.

In the southern regions, you can plant cherries in the fall, but no later than a month before the onset of frost, otherwise the seedling will not have time to take root well and will die. Usually this period falls at the end of September - the first half of October. In regions with severe winters (Siberia, the Urals), only spring planting is possible.

Walkthrough

It is better to prepare a pit for planting in the fall. This is not categorical, if everything is done correctly, then cherries can also be planted in freshly prepared pits. It is more convenient to make a pit in the form of a cube with edges of 60 cm - 60X60X60. If you make it deeper, the development of the root system of the planted tree will slow down, and if you make it less deep, the roots will be subject to all the vagaries of the weather: in summer - heat, in winter - frost.

The upper fertile layer is carefully removed to the side - it will be needed to prepare the soil mixture, and the earth from the bottom of the pit is laid out separately. The soil mixture is prepared from humus and fertile soil, mixed in a 1: 1 ratio. You can enhance its nutritional properties by adding wood ash to this mixture at the rate of 1.5 cups per bucket of mixture.

If it is planned to plant not one, but several cherry seedlings, a separate pit is prepared for each of them. The distance between the pits is not less than 3 m, and between the planted rows (if the future cherry orchard is planted) - 3.5 m.

A strong long peg is hammered into the bottom of the pit or slightly to the side of it - it is needed to tie up a planted tree. Then a hill of fertile land is poured into the center of the pit. On top of this hill, fathoms of cherries are placed.

You need to sprinkle the earth little by little, periodically trying on a seedling. Your task is to fill the bottom of the pit with earth so that the root neck (the place where the roots go into the trunk of the tree) is 3-4 cm above ground level.

Having achieved this, we put the seedling on top of the piled hill and carefully straighten the roots. For better survival, the roots can be dipped in a mash (a mixture of manure and clay diluted with water). Next, we fill the hole to the top with earth. The prepared soil mixture is usually not enough, the top of the pit has to be filled up with earth taken out of its bottom.

Compact the loosened earth by walking a little along it, but do not come close to the seedling. Compact the edges of the resulting near-stem circle more strongly by making a groove 8-10 cm deep along its perimeter.

At the end of planting, tie a cherry tree to a driven peg, pour 3 buckets of water into the groove. When the soil absorbs moisture and settles a little, the trunk circle is mulched with sawdust or dry earth. At this stage, a 4-5 cm layer of mulch is sufficient.

Planted tree care

Caring for planted cherries is not difficult and does not require any special skills from an amateur gardener. The first summer after planting, the cherry seedling is watered frequently and abundantly so that its root system remains in moist soil and takes root better in a new place.

In the future, cherry does not need frequent watering - it is distinguished by an enviable resistance to drought. But in the summer, during the intense heat, she responds with gratitude to watering. Watering should not be flooded, your task is to ensure that at a depth of 40-45 cm the earth remains moist.

After watering, as well as after heavy rains, it is imperative to loosen the soil in the trunk circle.

Cherry wakes up early and begins to develop. To protect the tree from spring frosts, in winter a pile of snow is raked onto the near-trunk circle. In the spring, the snowdrift is covered with a layer of straw - and it will melt slowly, delaying the vegetation of the cherry for a while, and fertilize the trunk circle after the snow has completely melted.

Top dressing of cherries is carried out twice during the growing season. The first is carried out immediately after the end of flowering, the second - 2 weeks after the first. It is better to feed with a solution of mullein with the addition of wood ash or mineral fertilizers to it. In autumn, with deep digging of the trunk circle, compost or rotted manure can be put into it.

Cherry nature has the ability to form a large number of shoots. If you do not cut it and do not form a crown, then after 2-3 years it will become so thick that you will not be able to harvest. And the harvest itself in such a dense crown will be scarce.

Cherry pruning is carried out in early spring, before the buds swell. The crown begins to form immediately after planting, shortening the planted seedling to 60-65 cm and cutting off the tops of the side branches. If the seedling has branches growing below 40 cm from the ground, they must be completely removed. The following year, the grown branches are cut to 1/3 of their length.

In the future, the formation of the crown will consist in sanitary pruning and removal of branches growing inside the crown. Once every 5-6 years, a rejuvenating pruning is carried out, removing most of the old shoots in order to give room for the growth and development of the young.

In order for the cherry to grow and develop well, it is necessary to completely and timely remove its root growth. The only exception to this rule is if you plan to use the root shoot as a rootstock for wood chips.

By following these simple rules for caring for a young tree, in 2-3 years you will be able to appreciate the taste of its berries. The cherry will fully thank you for all your labors and worries no sooner than 5-6 years after planting. Of course, you have to wait a long time. But with proper care, gratitude is always rich and tasty.

Sweet cherries are popular with gardeners due to the fruits that have a bright and rich taste. Therefore, a tree is desirable in any garden plot. This article will cover the steps involved in selecting, planting, caring for, and cultivars.

How to choose a seedling for planting?

To grow juicy, sweet cherries and get a good harvest, you need to choose the right seedlings. The choice depends on the climate in the area where the plant will be planted.

1. More often nurseries grow cherries landing for industrial purposes. This option is not suitable for an ordinary personal plot, due to the high trunk.
2. In central Russia it is recommended to buy seedlings with a stem up to twenty centimeters and it is better to choose frost-resistant varieties of cherries. The southern ones grow up to two meters per season, so they are rarely planted in the middle lane. They do not have time to mature and prepare for the winter period.
3. Better to buy seedlings in autumn or spring and carefully inspect the root system. Roots should be light cream in color, healthy and vigorous.

Where is it better to plant cherries on the site?

- a light-loving culture, and this is taken into account when choosing a place where it is planned to plant a tree.

The best option for planting in the garden will be the southern or southwestern slope.

Can be planted near buildings on the south side, to protect from the north wind. It doesn't matter if it's northern or southern. Do not choose places where groundwater is close.

Sweet cherry loves sandy and loamy soils, rather loose and moisture permeable. Not suitable sandy, peaty and clay.

Neighbors for cherries

Sweet cherries have a powerful superficial root system, which causes inconvenience to neighboring plants.

Therefore, you should not plant next to:

• 
  . It is a pome crop that displaces stone fruit plants. The distance to the apple tree is more than ten meters.
• pear. It competes with sweet cherries for nutrients, which will lead to low yields of both crops.
• . Plants have the same diseases and are more likely to infect each other. You have to constantly treat them. Distance, at least fifteen meters apart.
• Better not to plant, and rosehip.
• and. These are stone fruits, but due to different care requirements, they should not be planted close to cherries. Peach does not feel well even at a distance of about 7 m from her.
• Nightshade crops: , tobacco. Carriers of various diseases.
• Trees with a strong root system: , oak, birch, pine, poplar and spruce.

Can be planted next to:

• .This neighborhood gives an additional advantage to both plants in terms of cross-pollination. The only condition is that their crowns should not intersect. The minimum distance is six meters, and for large varieties up to ten meters.
• Plum- a good neighbor for cherries. You can plant quite close to each other, but given the size of the crown. The approximate distance is about five meters. It also depends on the large size of the variety.
• will be a great option for landing near the trunk circle.
• Barberry at a sufficient distance will become a worthy neighbor.

How to grow more crops?

Any gardener and summer resident is pleased to receive a large harvest with large fruits. Unfortunately, it is not always possible to get the desired result.

Often plants lack nutrition and useful minerals

It has the following properties:

• Allows increase yield by 50% in just a few weeks of use.
• You can get good harvest even on low-fertility soils and in adverse climatic conditions
• Absolutely safe

When is the best time to plant cherries?

The time of year for planting cherries is of great importance. Cherries are planted in spring or autumn. In the summer it is better not to plant.

About each option separately:

How to plant cherries?

Seedling preparation

Seedlings, with an open and closed root system, are purchased in specialized stores or nurseries. Before buying, you need to ask the seller for a passport for a seedling, and if there is one, study it in detail, and if not, then look for another place to buy.

1. The maximum age of the seedling should not exceed 3 years.
2. With a uniform color of the bark, without damage and have kidneys, otherwise the likelihood of taking root in a new place will be extremely small.
3. In the root system, there should be at least 3 roots, 20 cm each.
4. Check the roots and if they are brown on the cut, then the roots are frostbitten.

Knowledgeable craftsmen buy cherry trees in the fall, dig in and plant them in the spring. For instillation, make a small hole about half a meter deep with a slope of one wall of 45 degrees. A seedling is laid on it, covered with earth and insulated with leaves or dry grass.

When planting on a seedling, all the leaves are cut off, then he will use the main forces to develop his roots. For cross-pollination, it is better to plant two or three sweet cherry trees.

Soil Requirements

Cherry is a rather demanding tree, especially in terms of soil fertility. Therefore, before planting, the quality of the land is improved. The place where the cherry will grow is dug up and organic and mineral fertilizers are added.

Description of what and how much fertilizer to apply:

• about 15 kg per m 2 is applied manure, humus or;
• mineral -, 25 grams per m 2 and phosphorus 20 grams per m 2;
• lime is added depending on the composition of the soil and its acidity: half a kilogram per m 2 is added to loamy soil, and up to a kilogram to heavy soil, with high acidity;
• for black soil, all parameters are half as much, except for phosphorus, it is increased by 5 grams;
• before planting cherries, the soil is left fallow for a year and nothing is planted there, only weeds are removed during the growing season.

Pit preparation:

Landing in open ground

Landing technology:

1. Before planting, a mound is made in the pit, and a cherry seedling is placed on it.
2. The roots are carefully spread over the mound and sprinkled with earth, constantly shaking to fill the resulting voids.
3. Pour ten liters of water and fill the hole with soil to the brim.
4. The earth is compacted around the tree and a furrow is made into which water is poured.
5. The tree is strengthened with additional support and the trunk circle is mulched.

Planting depth:

• When planting a tree in a hole, after watering, the root neck should remain at ground level.
• Planting too deep will result in poor root development.
• With a shallow landing, the roots will freeze in winter and dry in summer, and there is also a high probability that they will be damaged by cultivating the ground.

Stories from our readers!
“I am a summer resident with many years of experience, and I started using this fertilizer only last year. I tested it on the most capricious vegetable in my garden - on tomatoes. The bushes grew and bloomed together, the harvest was more than usual. And they didn’t get sick with late blight, this is the main thing.

Fertilizer really gives more intensive growth of garden plants, and they bear fruit much better. Now you can’t grow a normal crop without fertilizer, and this top dressing increases the number of vegetables, so I am very pleased with the result."

Care after landing

Productivity largely depends on the proper care of cherries. Just planting is not enough, you need to grow a healthy and beautiful tree. Care must be competent and systematic.

Tips on how to properly feed cherries:

To attract bees, honey herbs are planted nearby. It is possible, during flowering, to spray the tree with a solution of water and honey: 1 tablespoon of honey per liter of water.

Aftercare

Trimming and shaping

After planting, the first pruning is carried out. All branches are removed, leaving two or three main ones. Then the tree will give more strength to the growth of the roots, and not the upper part of the plant.

The following year, cut the shoots of new branches by about half. This will stimulate the plant to additionally grow branches that will give the main crop. The lower branches are not pruned. Their pruning is carried out at a five-year-old tree, as they strengthen the trunk.

Usually the cherry crown is formed as a rarefied-tiered:

• Three branches are left at the first level, a couple of branches can be adjacent, the third is made twenty centimeters higher than the rest.
• At the second level, two skeletal branches are left.
• Between the first and second tiers, the distance is about seventy centimeters.
• And at the top level there is one branch.

When pruning cherries, it is important to consider the angle between the branches and the trunk. Shoots at an angle of 45 0 must be cut. Otherwise, they will break under the weight of the fruit, forming wounds that heal for a long time.

Preparing for winter

The plant needs to be given attention and care constantly. This also applies to the autumn months in preparation for winter.

Sweet cherry reacts sharply to frost, especially young seedlings.

Mature plants tolerate winter more easily. Therefore, young animals are sheltered for the winter from frost, protecting them from the pressure of the snow cover, which can break them.

To prepare cherries for winter, you must:

• At the trunk close the soil a large layer of mulch: peat, sawdust or coniferous litter. The width of the cover is equal to the crown of the tree.
• Protection from birds and rodents at the seedling, pegs equal to the plant in height are hammered. The tops of the pegs are tied together to form a column shape.
• Around the established stakes covering material is attached, as a result, a semblance of a cylinder will be obtained. The tree is covered completely from the base to the top, then it will be protected from unwanted guests.
• As the first snow falls a snowdrift is made at the base, it will be additional insulation.
• Every spring and autumn whitewash the lower part of the trunk and protect against insects.

It is important that after packing the plant, there must be enough air inside. Therefore, it is necessary to carefully tighten the upper part of the material in order to prevent leaf wrangling and the appearance of fungal diseases.

Transplanting an adult tree

Sweet cherry is a rather unpretentious plant for transplantation and anyone can do it. The main thing is to follow simple rules.

There are two options for transplanting an adult tree:

• with an open root system;
• the roots are in the ground.

In the first case, the transplant is carried out according to the rules described earlier. In the second, the cherries are carefully dug up with a clod of soil.

The depth of digging is determined by the age of the plant:

• Five-year a tree is dug from one meter deep, perhaps more.
• More adults or when the exact age is unknown, they dig about 80 centimeters. Here the root system is already powerful and therefore this depth is sufficient.

The advantage of transplanting cherries with soil is that the roots remain in their usual conditions, and they are held together by a clod of earth.

How to plant cherries from the stone?

It seems that growing a cherry from a stone is not difficult, and this is quite logical. But in fact, not everything is as simple as it seems at first glance. Planting a seed and growing a shoot is only the initial stage, then a branch of a varietal tree is grafted onto it. Otherwise, a tree will grow with small and sour fruits.

The process of growing cherries from the stone at home:

How to graft a cherry?

As a rule, cherries are grafted onto cherries. To do this, choose a hardy variety for the climatic conditions in which the plant will grow.

Other vaccination options:

1. Cherry. A common method, since a high survival rate is obtained and these are closely related plants.
2. cherry plum will become a good stock, as the shoots are much more powerful than the branches of the sweet cherry, which means it will withstand a large harvest. Survival is high in this case too.
3. Having experience in vaccination, plums are used. They grow together with difficulty, but if they succeed in grafting, then the result will greatly please any gardener.

It is better to graft sweet cherries during active sap flow in the spring. But it is possible throughout the summer and early autumn. The main thing is that the vaccine takes root before frost.

Cherries are grafted in several ways. An effective method of copulation is grafting with cuttings.

Step-by-step instructions for grafting cherries:

Cherry varieties for planting

1. Columnar. It differs from the usual crown shape and high yield. It is a trunk with leaves, up to 4 m high. For different regions and climates, their own varieties of columnar cherries have been bred.
2. Large-fruited. The mass of berries on average reaches twelve grams, a maximum of eighteen, dark red. Yields up to 55 kilograms of fruit per season. Grows up to five meters in height. Fairly cold hardy.
3. Fatezh. It grows up to three meters in height, but gives a large harvest of delicious fruits. The first fruits appear in the fifth year, a ten-year-old tree can produce up to forty kilograms of light pink berries per season. The shape of the crown is drooping, which makes it possible to use it as an ornamental plant. More often planted in Moscow and the Moscow region.
4. Ipath. It grows up to five meters in height, has a magnificent pyramidal crown shape. Fruiting begins in the fifth year, and the maximum yield is about 50 kilograms per season. The berry is almost black. More suitable for the central zone of Russia.
5. Valery Chkalov. Reaches a height of five meters with a spreading crown. Dark red berries, weighing about eight grams. The yield reaches 60 kilograms per tree. It has high frost resistance.
6. Bryansk pink. Height up to three and a half meters with a rounded crown. The berries are pink-yellow in color, weighing about four grams. Productivity is from twenty to thirty kilograms per season. Possesses average frost resistance.

Not so long ago, dwarf and semi-dwarf cherry rootstocks appeared. They are densely planted, give a high and early harvest.

Questions for gardeners

Question	Answer
What to do with the shoots - transplant or graft?	If the shoot goes above the rootstock, then it is a sweet cherry and you can graft it. The shoots below the graft are removed or transplanted if a good rootstock variety has been used or a new shoot is needed.
After planting cherries and overwintering, there is not a single leaf	There may be several reasons for this: Poorly made insulation for the winter or did not carry it out at all. As a result, the roots and buds could freeze. Perhaps the landing site was chosen poorly. If everything was done correctly, then rodents could damage the root or trunk. In this case, it is better to replace it with a new cherry.
When do cherries bear fruit after planting?	On average, cherries bear fruit for 5 years of life. Therefore, after planting, these terms differ depending on the age of the seedling.
What to plant under the cherry tree?	Herbs are planted to attract bees: mustard, cotton, buckwheat, coriander. Cherry under the crown forms favorable conditions for flowers. She has a loose shadow and raindrops easily penetrate the soil. You can plant, for example: , daffodils, primrose. This will give an additional beautiful look to the site.