Weather station on NodeMcu. People's monitoring. Transferring data from Arduino to "Port Monitor"

At the end of 2016 GeekVape simply flooded the market with high-quality atomizers, both under their own brand and through Digiflavor, which is their subsidiary. Basically, the manufacturer’s actions were aimed at creating tanks for a good “load”. For this reason, the interests of vapers who are committed to a more “calm” and tasteful vaping were somewhat infringed. Designed to get this category of users Ammit RTA.

Okay, let's assume that GeekVape they simply have their own signature style, and for this reason alone all their tanks are as similar to each other as two peas in a pod. On the one hand, this fact upsets me, but on the other, I understand that this doesn’t make the tanks look any worse, and besides, they have something to show technically.

Dimensions:

Height - 53 mm.
Diameter - 22 mm.

Specifications:

As I already said, GeekVape We weren’t particularly worried about the feelings of vapers who don’t like very powerful tanks. To some extent, they tried to correct the situation with the help of plugs for using the tank in single spiral mode. But even despite this, the user did not get the feeling of a full-fledged single-spiral tank. Ammit is a serious step towards a “quiet” tank, but not everything is so smooth here.

The most interesting part of this atomizer is its base. It is designed for one spiral, the legs of which are held in place by two Phillips screws. Everything seems to be standard, but just look at this airflow system. Air enters the spiral from both sides. There are two fairly wide slots at the bottom. In addition, air is supplied directly to the spiral from the side opposite the racks by three small holes that perform an auxiliary function. Air intake occurs thanks to two wide openings in the lower part of the case.

In terms of fluid reservoir capacity, Ammit seriously loses to his colleagues. You can only fill this tank with 3.5 ml of liquid. There is a good reason for this - unlike most modern tanks, Ammit has a diameter of only 22 mm. This, for the most part, is the reason for such an undignified tank volume.

For those who want to get to know the tank better, I suggest watching a video review from Rip Trippers, in which he shows in detail the process of launching and installing this atomizer. Personally, it was only after watching this review that I realized that I didn’t need this tank and reassured my hamster, who was already determined to spend some money. Looking ahead, I can say that this tank is still “knocked down”, so it’s advanced Kayfun it didn't work out :)

I have long been accustomed to the fact that products GeekVape can't be bad. The guys have repeatedly proven their ability to do quality devices who have something to show their competitors. Ammit was no exception. In my opinion, among modern vapers there are enough people who want to try this miracle. Well, the manufacturer’s democratic pricing policy makes this very possible :)

Manufacturer's official website -

Which described the creation of a device for monitoring PC parameters. I immediately wanted something like this. But since I don’t have much experience in programming PIC controllers, but I have Arduino, I decided to build it on it.

The basis of the device is Freeduino, an LCD (16x2) display with an H44780 controller on board is used as an indicator, a piezoelectric capsule taken from a Chinese multimeter is used to produce a sound signal. The connection between the resulting device and the PC is carried out via USB.

Photo of the “finished” device:

Here full list parts for assembly:
- Arduino Uno, Freeduino, etc.
- LCD display with controller H44780
- Piezoelectric emitter (any one will do, even the one used in Chinese toys)
- Resistor 10-30 Ohm
- Trimmer resistor 10kOhm

We connect the parts according to this scheme:

We load the sketch called “Lcd_Ram.ino” into Arduino (located in the archive attached to the article), connect it to the PC via a USB cable.

The following picture should appear on the device display:

If the picture does not appear, there are four reasons:
1) No power (USB cord is damaged);
2) The LCD cable is damaged (the display has not been initialized);
3) Arduino is faulty;
4) Insufficient display contrast (this reason can be eliminated by changing the resistance of the trimming resistor);

This device is capable of displaying information on RAM and processor load on the LCD (the size of the LCD itself no longer allowed).

If RAM is loaded more than 70%, the device will beep and the following icon will be displayed on the LCD:

The sound signal can be turned off from the program on Windows. If the sound is turned on, the following icon is displayed on the LCD:

The main window of this program:

To connect to Arduino, open the “” tab in the program. COM port» --> “COM Setup”, and select the virtual COM port “owned” by the Arduino (if this is your first time connecting the Arduino to a PC, you will need to install the FTDI drivers). After connection, the display should show a similar picture.

Good day, readers and those who just came here. I am a subscriber to the YouTube channel AlexGyver and seeing a video about “PC Hardware Monitoring”,

I decided to repeat this homemade product, because... I found it quite interesting, and I always wanted to display the system status in a hardware way, on an additional screen, and not on a computer monitor. Make from a computer christmas tree I didn’t want to, so I decided not to install RGB backlighting, and also decided to abandon the homemade reobass, because... my Gigabyte mother perfectly knows how to control fan speeds without any intermediaries using BOIS.

I chose and ordered the cheapest components offered by the author:

1. ATmega 328 https://goo.gl/DkWhmU
2. Connecting wires https://goo.gl/NHmQqs
3. Screen for 4 lines 20 characters https://goo.gl/4MAowg

I ordered all this from one seller so that it would arrive together, in one parcel. And small life hack: if you put everything in the cart from one seller who has a shipping fee, and then pay once, then the shipping fee will be charged once. (And not for each of the 3 products).

4. Mini USB wire I didn’t order it and soldered it directly to the Arduino and connected it with wires (from point 2) to the internal USB connector. But you don’t have to worry and order https://goo.gl/LA7sb3 it’s easier

And he began to wait. Everything arrived quite quickly, in 15 days. There is also a button in the circuit, which, when closed, switches screens with information about the state of the system. First I took this one:

but the idea turned out to be not very good, because... there was nothing to secure it to the front panel of the computer. Therefore, in a local radio electronics store, a non-latching button was selected, with a convenient attachment to the case, as well as a toggle switch to turn off this “miracle” at night. Because everything connected to the USB port of my computer is constantly powered and tends to light up and blink, turning off only by unplugging the computer from the outlet.

In general, I spent several hours mounting this miracle technical progress, cutting out a place for the screen in the front cover of the computer and drilling holes for the button and toggle switch. Further, for full-fledged operation, all this had to be soldered according to the circuit and a resident program had to be launched to monitor the computer’s resources. Here's what happened:

Well, it turned out pretty good, almost as I wanted. It remains to eliminate small problems in the software that transmits temperatures. For some reason they are transmitted to the maximum of: sensor mat. CPU, GPU, Motherboard boards, which prevents you from monitoring your computer in a quiet state, when idle temperatures are not high.

If anyone is unable to download the source code from the AlexGyver website page, here is a re-upload to my website: .

Having rummaged through the program, I found a lot that did not suit me and by and large, did not work correctly. After spending a couple of evenings, with the help of friends, I figured out a little both the code of the sketch on Arduino and the OpenHardwareMonitor code, which actually transmits the output parameters to the screen. And he made changes that satisfied me.

Changes in the OpenHardwareMonitor program:

• how the CPU temperature is now transmitted not the temperature of the hottest core, but the temperature of the CPU sensor from the mother;
• how the GPU temperature is no longer transmitted Maximum temperature between Motherboard and GPU, and GPU temperature from the video card sensor;
• How the MotherBoard temperature is now transmitted is not the maximum temperature between: motherboard, GPU and CPU temperature sensor from the mother, and MotherBoard temperature from the sensor;
• also in values ​​12 and 13 from OpenHardwareMonitor, non-flags are now transmitted manual control fans and backlight, and the rotation speed of the CPU and MotherBoard fan, respectively.

Changes in the sketch for Arduino:

• Removed tracking of pressing the second button that changed screens in reverse order;
• on the second screen the information output has been replaced, now instead of the temperature there are 2 external sensors temperatures (TMP1, TMP2) I display the rotation speed of the CPU (FanC) and MotherBoard (FanM) fan.
• Tracking for manual control of fans and lighting has been removed.

The archive with all the changes and sources can be downloaded here (As we found out empirically, the changes in OpenHardwareMonitor work fine on Gigabyte motherboards, like mine, and most likely there will be errors on motherboards from other manufacturers).

Winter and cats to everyone!

Happy experimenting!