Materials for building a porch. Porch in a private house: the basics of building a porch. Flooring the porch landing and installing steps

The porch and staircase at the entrance to the cottage are integral elements of any country house. Moreover, the correct arrangement entrance area significantly influences the overall perception of the “picture” of the structure. Despite all the beauty of the facade and roofing, the “wrong” entrance to the house will destroy all harmony and will look like an alien element. During construction entrance group special requirements are placed on its design and choice of materials. After all, the porch and external staircase are subject to increased exposure to adverse weather conditions.

No homeowner wants to deal with the annual repair of a porch that has moved away from the house, or climb an uncomfortable staircase with tiles flying off the steps. Therefore, in this article we, based on practical experience FORUMHOUSE users, we will answer the following questions:

• How to avoid mistakes when building a foundation for a porch.
• How to repair a crumbling porch and is it worth it?
• How to calculate the optimal width of the porch.
• How to make a comfortable entrance staircase.
• How to make a beautiful porch from burnt timber.

Foundation: mistakes and solutions

The most important mistake of any novice developer when constructing a porch is to treat the choice of foundation type as something simple and frivolous, guided by the principle “it will do.” As a result, the entrance area turns into a real one headache. As soon as prolonged downpours pass, or spring arrives, the following picture can be observed in the villages - homeowners begin repairs.

Depending on the severity and neglect of the “disease,” treatment is either cosmetic procedures- covering up cracks, gluing “shot” tiles, or more serious “operations”. A porch that has “moved away” from the house or is sagging is jacked up, the problematic foundation is dismantled and they are racking their brains over how to make sure this does not happen again in the future.

An incorrectly made porch can drag down the façade finish, the roof (if the supports of the rafter system rest on it), lead to deformation of the roofing, etc. Conclusion: do everything right at once, even at the stage of building a house, and not hope for chance.

Potainoi FORUMHOUSE Member

I conceived the idea of ​​building a small cottage from aerated concrete. The foundation has already been poured - a regular strip 1.2 m high, without a porch, because... At first, the foundation was built for another project. Now I’m thinking about how to “tie” the open porch to the house and avoid mistakes. The problem is that part of the roof will rest on the porch through the pillars - the so-called. "cuckoo".

Let us add that the soil on the user’s site is as follows:

• chernozem - 0.7 m;
• then loam - 0.3 m;
• further clay - 1-1.3 m.

Moreover, the clay is of such density that, according to Potainoi, You can only chop it with an axe. The groundwater level is low. Over the past few winters, the soil has frozen to no more than 0.6 m, although the actual freezing depth in the area of ​​residence is greater. Important: when calculating the depth of the foundation, one must rely on tabular data of the climatic zone (the depth of soil freezing in a harsh and light winter, which can happen once every 15-20 years). Based on these figures, the user suggested discussing the following solutions for foundation construction on the portal:

• Dig a trench and pour a strip foundation under the entrance group to the freezing depth.
• Pour concrete piles with a “heel” below the freezing depth and support the “cuckoo” on these pillars.
• Screw in the screw piles.
• Support the “cuckoo” on diagonal beams, resting them against the wall or base, and “untie” the porch from the roof and the house.

The following advice followed.

Roger40 FORUMHOUSE Member

I would pour the foundation under the porch to the same depth as the main one, and tie them together in a row expansion joint, which will provide them with some progress. I encountered a similar problem several years ago - a columnar foundation (poured below the freezing depth) along with the porch “moved away” from the house, and common roof torn.

A separate foundation poured below the freezing depth is not a panacea for porch construction. After all. it is subject to tangential forces of frost heaving, which cannot be balanced by the load/weight from the overlying lightweight structure.

The foundation for a porch (as well as for a house) must be calculated based on the type of soil, its bearing capacity, susceptibility to heaving and groundwater level. Therefore, ideally this the foundation is erected as a single/common structure with the main foundation for the house. Or if it construction was left “for later”, the foundation under the porch must be “untied” with a foundation for a cottage.

In the case described above, the matter was complicated by the fact that the porch takes on the load from the rafter system. With some movement of the untied foundations, the roof may tear.

Vit1959 Moderator FORUMHOUSE

Two different foundations will live their own “life”. How different it is is difficult to say. What will happen to them and to the roof of the house cannot be guaranteed. I think it's better for Potainoi to make a "cuckoo" on external cantilever beams (the next beam is longer than the previous one), so that the roof is on its own, and the foundation of the porch is on its own.

Potainoi

I will think about how to make outrigger beams. You just need to calculate all the fastening points and figure out the design.

The foundation for the porch should be considered as a whole, as unified system, working in conjunction with the house.

Repair or break

Sometimes a problematic porch can be inherited. And then the homeowner, in addition to the purchased house, receives a “time bomb”, which entails a number of problems. This is exactly the situation faced by a portal user with the nickname dvauha2, when I bought a ready-made cottage.

dvauha2 FORUMHOUSE Member

I bought a house. The cottage has an open stone porch without a canopy. It is not connected to the foundation of the house. The problem is that it is gradually being destroyed. Water flows into the foamed seam between the porch and the house and runs under the foundation. The top step is falling apart. Now I am limited in finances, and I would not like to deal with radical alterations. I’m thinking of making a canopy to prevent water from getting onto the problem unit and sealing the gap. Or does the stingy person pay twice, and everything has to be demolished and the porch rebuilt?

Users of the portal actively participated in the discussion of the situation and suggested different solutions. Portal member with nickname Detonator, According to him, he encountered a similar problem. The porch of his house had no canopy. Over time, the wooden railings rotted. Then the tiles on the steps flew off. They did not redo the foundation. They erected a canopy and repaired the steps.

Two years later, the two lower steps of the porch “left”. Then they decided to apply a radical “treatment” of the foundation - they laid a steel screed on both sides below (a channel or corner, screwing it to the concrete, the alteration took place without the participation of Detonator) and covered everything with tiles.

Detonator FORUMHOUSE Member

The winter passed without problems, let's see what happens next.

It’s cheaper to just make a normal porch right away than to deal with expensive alterations.

Returning to the situation dvauh2. On the advice of users, he slightly disassembled the porch from above from one corner to understand its design. It turned out the following: under the screed - the upper part of the slab, it is filled uncompacted sand, which gradually pours into the gap between the porch and the house.

Bottom part The steps are covered with asphalt chips and now constitute a monolithic base for the second step.

There is no insulated blind area. As a result, the porch “walks” and the gap widens.

dvauha2

I’m racking my brains about how to properly connect the house and the porch, and how best to seal this gap.

Dgusepe Moderator FORUMHOUSE

I think the gap should not be foamed, because... any filling can act like a wedge, and when the soil heaves, the porch will “float away” again. The gap can simply be covered with a decorative cover.

As a result dvauha2 I decided not to constantly repair the problematic porch, but to demolish it and build a new one of high quality. Moreover, it turned out that the brick at the steps was cracked, and the sand that was poured inside the entire structure was not compacted at all. Under the vestibule slab, the sand was also not compacted, and after the structure was broken, it began to spill out, and the slab ended up hanging in the air.

dvauha2

So far I have made a temporary staircase to the house from a board with a section of 5x15 cm. I decided that I would make a normal porch with a small vestibule.

How to calculate the entrance staircase, the optimal width of the porch and avoid “shooting” decorative tiles

When erecting an open porch, you should remember that even if there is a canopy, it is still susceptible to negative influence snow, rain and wind. This speeds up its wear. Therefore, when choosing materials for construction, you need to give preference to those that have a long service life. But sometimes, having chosen high-quality ceramic tiles or stone for cladding the steps and landing, the developer is faced with an unpleasant phenomenon - the so-called. "shooting". The tiles are constantly falling off or cracking.

Most often, this is blamed on bad glue, weather, finishers, etc., forgetting about one possible reason. The following happens - a porch and stairs are erected (we are talking about a stone porch and concrete stairs). The tiles are glued to the steps, but... the builders “forgot” to make waterproofing that would cut off the wet soil from concrete base; moisture coming from the ground gradually saturates the concrete. Because ceramic tile steam and waterproof, moisture has nowhere to escape. It accumulates at the base-tile interface. At subzero temperatures, water freezes, increases in volume, and the finishing coating flies off from the base.

To prevent this from happening, there is a prepared and compacted base at the border - concrete porch/ staircase is provided with reliable waterproofing.

In addition to a competent design, do not forget about the ease of use. One of the most common questions is: what size to make the entrance platform. The depth can be calculated by multiplying the door width by 1.5. With a door leaf width of 1 meter the depth of the site must be at least 1.5 m.

This principle will allow you to avoid a situation where, with the door open, standing on the upper platform, a person is forced to go down one step in order to enter the house. If you save on the size of the site and its depth, then lifting large items into the house - furniture, engineering equipment. Even carrying a couple of bulky bags from the grocery store will become inconvenient. The platform itself can be square with equal sides. With a door width of 1 meter, the upper platform is 1.5x1.5 m.

Moreover, the height of the porch is calculated in such a way that the top of the platform is approximately 5 cm below the door threshold. This way, snow and water will not get into the house. To build a convenient entrance staircase, as a guide, you can be guided by the following principles:

• We immediately figure out how many sides the staircase goes on - one, two or three.
• The optimal angle of inclination (ascent) of the stairs is maintained within 30-45 degrees. Stairs with an inclination of more than 45 degrees are difficult to climb. A staircase with an inclination angle of less than 30 degrees is flat and requires more space.
• The width of the tread is within 25-30 cm. The height of the rise of the step is 15-20 cm.

Practice shows that the optimal comfortable height The rise of the step is within 15-17 cm. The width of the tread is about 30 cm. The offset of the step is no more than 3 cm.

It is better if the number of steps is odd, because It is more convenient to start and finish climbing stairs with the same foot. The number of steps can be calculated by dividing the estimated height of the structure by the height of the step. Knowing the expected number of steps and the width of the tread, you can calculate the length of the flight of stairs.

Porch and staircase made of burnt timber

At the end of the article, we will give an example of a creative approach to arranging a beautiful open porch and stairs, which he built from burnt deciduous timber Green0568.

The entrance group was made using timber with a cross-section of 20x15 cm.

The beams are fastened together with wood grouse using polyurethane glue. Through one wood grouse the dowels are hammered. Under the fourth step in the middle there is a jack, under the third there are two jacks, which are placed at the edges with an indent.

Summarizing

In order to obtain a high-quality result when constructing a porch and entrance staircase, knowledge and practical experience are required. The entrance area can be either simple - made of boards or welded from corners and channels, or more complex - stone - with monolithic staircase And forged elements. But it all starts with calculation and comparison of different options.

You can get ideas for construction, ask a question or find the optimal design on our portal. FORUMHOUSE has collected dozens of options for arranging the entrance area. Read, and... We also recommend articles about and. The video shows the addition of a wooden two-story porch and balcony to a log house.

The porch performs not only decorative functions. In winter, it protects the front door from snow drifts, and in summer, from rain or heat. It can be made from metal, stone, brick, concrete, but the best option For wooden house there will be a porch made of good wood. You can build a porch for a wooden house with your own hands if you approach this matter prepared, and for this we recommend that you read our article.

Porch dimensions

For a free approach to front door and its opening requires presence free space. According to building codes, the upper platform of the porch adjacent to a single-leaf door must have a width of 1.6 m to double door– from 2 m. The distance from the door to the first of the steps is 1 m. To protect from rain and snow, the canopy over the porch is made slightly wider than the platform (by 30 cm).

Must be normalized width and height of steps, in which the average width of a person’s step is taken as a basis. Their optimal height is 16-19 cm with a width of 25-33 cm. Since a person starts climbing the stairs and finishes it with one leg, the number of steps should be odd.

Standard step sizes

In winter, the steps are often covered with ice, so the porch should be equipped with handrails. If there are more than 3 steps, their manufacture is mandatory. Standard railing height– 80-90 cm.

Important! Upper platform The porch should be 5-10 cm below the door threshold. Otherwise, during seasonal soil fluctuations, it may rise and block the door.

Foundation

The simplest foundation for a wooden porch is piles. They can be made from wooden beams treated with an antiseptic or burned in a fire, or metal pipes. Depth such supports should be slightly below (20-30 cm) the level of soil freezing.

To install the piles, a small layer of sand is first poured into the holes prepared for them, and then gravel. Such a pillow will remove moisture from the supports and protect them from premature rotting.

Foundation for a porch on wooden piles

After installing the supports and leveling them, the space between them and the ground is filled with concrete mortar. Extreme supports They are attached to the wall of the house with large nails or self-tapping screws. Further work should be carried out only after the concrete has completely hardened.

Important! In the event that you select for the porch concrete foundation, between it and the base of the house it is necessary to provide expansion joint. Otherwise, during seasonal soil movements, due to the difference in the load on the supports, the foundation at the point of its connection with the building may crack. To avoid moisture ingress, such an expansion joint can be filled with any flexible material(rubber gasket, mineral wool, etc.), and then cover with a strip.

An expansion joint should be provided between the base of the house and the porch

What is a kosour?

The side inclined boards to which the steps are attached are called bowstrings. The steps in them can be inserted into special grooves cut into the bowstring, mounted on screws, dowels, studs or special steel fasteners.

Stair strings

But most often stairs are made, the bowstrings of which have cutouts, on which the steps lie. This type of bowstring is called stringer.

Stairs with one stringer are rare. Most often, the steps are mounted on two or (if the span width is large enough and ranges from 1.2-1.5 m) on three supports.

Making a stringer

Staircase on three stringers

All stringers are divided into two main types:

Regular stepped; have triangular cutouts placed at equal distances from each other; a significant disadvantage of this method is the thinning wooden beam after cutting it;

WITH "fillies": small bars (dowels) to support the steps, which are inserted into the slots of the stringers; quite complex, but more durable design.

Stringer with fillies

The stringer is the most complex structural element, so its dimensions and the width of the cutouts should be measured with special care. To facilitate the process, you can use a stencil made from a piece of plywood or thick, even cardboard.

The horizontal cutouts for the steps in the stringer must be equal tread(width of the step). The size of the vertical cut is riser(step height).

Important! When measuring the size of a stringer or bowstring, it should be taken into account that the tread of the first step should become a continuation of the platform.

To prevent the support beams from bending under the weight of people walking along the stairs, the boards from which bowstrings or stringers will be made must be thick enough - from 60 mm at width from 30 cm. They are made from high-quality hardwood (spruce, pine, maple, oak or beech), which does not have cracks or knots.

Stringers made from metal profiles are more durable and reliable. For this you can use steel corners.

Channel stringers

Porch assembly

Before starting assembly, to protect it from rotting, you should carefully treat the wood with any antibacterial agents and paint it several times with drying oil or varnish.

1. After the concrete mortar has hardened in the support pillars holes are cut out for laying the top part of stringers or bowstrings (they are attached without nails). The lower part of the bowstrings should lie on support pads, resting on nickels.

Fastening the upper part of the stringer

Notches for attaching the bottom of the stringer

2. Placed on support piles lags and are attached using self-tapping screws. For their manufacture, 5-centimeter strong boards are used. They are laid on the logs floorboards thickness from 2.5 cm.

3. To ensure ventilation, be sure to leave a small 20mm gap. The same gap is left between the steps and the tread. Too much long distance There is no need to do it between the boards - after all, during operation, the wood will dry out and the size of the cracks will increase.

4. Laying the steps begins from the bottom. If desired, you can do without risers by laying only treads.

You don’t have to make steps for the street porch

5. Treads and risers are attached to screws with wide heads. They are slightly (a couple of millimeters) recessed into the boards. Metal brackets can also be used for fastening. Ideal option There will be the use of boards with a tongue-and-groove system.

Fastening steps and risers

The porch is a part of the house that is subject to constant use due to off-road. Completed in harmonious combination with the material of the walls, it becomes a beautiful evidence of the owner’s well-being and his attentive attitude towards his home.

Several design options

First of all, you should decide on the options for the entrance group; several landscaping methods are described below.

Open entrance

A porch without a canopy is sometimes used for private houses. This type of entrance represents a platform open on all sides. Railings are not installed, since the height usually does not exceed several steps. The site is exposed to precipitation, since there is no roof or canopy over it.

More often open area do if there is a veranda behind it. Such open types are arranged in southern regions with a dry climate, and in damp areas with high rainfall open options not building.

With terrace

To protect those entering the house, a porch of a private building with a canopy is made. This type allows you to approach the arrangement of the entrance with a huge range various options, as evidenced by numerous photographs. The roof above the platform plays the role of an elegant accessory or becomes the final detail in the whole ensemble of the façade exterior.

A covered area with a porch is the most effective solution; it is economical and practical to use. It is impossible to make a separate canopy in front of the entrance if the platform falls under the common extended edge of the roof or there is a balcony above it. Some canopy options involve expanding it to the roof of a parking lot or a small cozy terrace.

Buried option

This type involves fencing the site with walls made of wood. They can be solid and contain window openings in their design. The role of the roof is played by a separate canopy or a higher balcony above the entrance. Such a weather-protected room further expands usable area Houses.

Sometimes the area inside the closed entrance is made spacious and an additional kitchen is installed there in the summer for preparing food; in the winter, shelves are installed for storing food. You can combine a closed entrance with a spacious terrace for parties and receiving friends. If you make a solid and spacious closed entrance, then most often you need to build a foundation.

How to make a wooden porch with your own hands - step-by-step work

The construction of a wooden porch often does not require an additional foundation, which helps save money. When manufacturing the structure, attention is paid to massive steps and original railings.

Wood goes well with walls made of artificial and natural stone, brick, covered with siding or plastic. The canopy posts are made massive if the design concept requires it, or they are decorated with figures, light carvings, and balusters of unusual shapes are installed. Wood is easy to paint various colors, which makes it possible to develop design ideas.

Wood is a malleable material that can be easily processed and can be processed in complex ways. Steps and other wooden structures, treated with special impregnations against rotting and antiseptics against microbes, will last for quite a long time, and will not only have a presentable appearance, but will also delight the owners of the house with their grandeur and splendor.

The porch is divided according to the method of connection to the house:

• built-in type, located on a common base with the house and built together with it;
• attached, carried out in the process of finishing work.

Construction device

The construction is carried out on a natural straight or sloping site using a frame. Made from wood or metal box, serving as the basis for installing and fastening steps. This is a budget option and can be implemented at any stage of construction or after the start of operation of the house.

A porch is built on a bowstring or reinforced stringer, in which a metal box-base is provided only in the lower part, and the upper part rests on the base of the house or floor slab. This method opens up opportunities for a greater number of design options, as it has a greater bearing capacity than the previous budget option.

Common mistakes

It’s better to learn from the mistakes of others, so we were able to identify several common deviations that beginners encounter:

• When designing, the materials of the walls of the house were not taken into account, and the porch is knocked out of general style exterior;
• errors in the dimensions of the structure do not provide a proportional combination with the dimensions of the house;
• errors are made in measurements, the surrounding paths, flower beds, location and dimensions of the front door are not taken into account, which distorts the correctness of the design solution;
• excess consumption of material is allowed as a result wrong choice designs;
• the design strength of the structure is insufficient;
• not provided additional processing antiseptics and protective compounds for exposed parts and load-bearing structures in the ground, which leads to premature damage to wood and reduces its service life;
• the absence of a load-bearing foundation under a heavy, massive porch leads to sloughing of the soil and displacement of the structure;
• soil characteristics are not taken into account, in particular, subsidence and the possibility of heaving.

Choosing building material

When planning construction, you should first determine the type of wood most suitable for the structure. For outdoor buildings, coniferous wood, pine or larch are chosen. You can make parts from a whole log, which looks very colorful for large estates and mansions. Stringers can be made from logs laid on top of each other, and steps are provided from a trunk sawn along the length.

For the device you will need to prepare the following types of material:

• It is recommended to make the porch supports from 10 x 20 cm timber. This is a standard solution; the choice of section for each specific case depends on the load, the number of supports and other operating conditions;
• for the manufacture of a solid platform and steps, a board with a thickness of 2.5 to 5 cm, depending on the span, is optimal;
• you can install ready-made balusters and railings in the structure, or you can make them from slats or thin timber, the dimensions of which are determined depending on the project;
• provide protective solutions and compositions for impregnation of finished parts;
• concrete and metallic profile(if they are provided for by the design for the foundation).

We design

If you start construction without a project or diagram, then the difficulties that arise will put the craftsman in front of the need to change something during the construction of the structure. The presence of all diagrams and dimensions in a visual form on paper will make changes easier and simpler. The project must contain:

• drawing, drawing or photo appearance porches in frontal and lateral projection;
• the location, number and height of steps are indicated;
• height and placement of railings, frequency of balusters;
• size and shape of the visor;
• dimensions of the platform base;
• the dimensions of the side walls, their thickness, the presence of window and door openings.

There are patterns, defined by norms and rules, used for the rapid construction of structures:

• the platform is made at the level of the foundation or foundation of the house;
• the width of the area in front of the front door, taking into account the size of the first step, is usually taken to be 1.3–1.7 m;
• the width of the step should be within 30–40 cm, its standard height is 15–20 cm;
• the bottom of the visor is located 25–30 cm above the top of the entrance door;
• The minimum width of the passage on the porch for one person is taken to be within 70–80 cm; for two people to walk hand in hand, this passage is increased to 1.4–1.6 m.
• if the ascent to the platform is more than three steps, then the porch must be equipped with railings;
• the front door usually opens outward, so the last finishing layer of the platform should not raise it more than 5 cm below the level of the opening line;
• the project includes waterproofing wooden walls from a concrete base, if provided;
• the width of the platform is made taking into account the opening of a double or single leaf door;
• it is recommended to provide night lighting for the entrance area and the surrounding area;
• the extension of the canopy is made by 40–50 cm in length and width relative to the platform;
• It is recommended to include in the design an inclination angle of the steps and platform of about 2–3 degrees to avoid the accumulation of water and the formation of ice.

Making the foundation

A lightweight structure can be installed without a foundation, but its foundation will help avoid the structure’s dependence on seasonal shifts and swelling of the soil. To do this, you can choose a columnar foundation.

A solid slab-type foundation is located under the porch and platform and is made in the form of a foundation for massive large entrances combined with terraces and verandas. Strip foundation is the most economical, as it has sufficient tensile strength with reduced material costs.

It is better to take the depth of the foundation at the level of the foundation of the house. It is recommended to fasten these two foundations together using embedded parts made of reinforcement or strip metal.

During construction, a number of mandatory rules must be observed according to the instructions:

• the base of the stringer beam must rest in an area isolated from moisture, which is located on the foundation;
• supports are best made from coniferous wood, which works better in wet conditions contact with the ground;
• It is imperative to treat all load-bearing and structural parts with an antiseptic to a height of up to 52 cm above the soil level; drying oil or used machine oil is used as impregnation;
• the supports are installed to a depth of at least 80 cm or at a distance equal to 1/3 of the length, the number of racks depends on the massiveness of the structure;
• after the concrete solution has hardened, the height of the racks is adjusted;
• for reliable laying of beams and joists in the upper part of the racks, quarters are chosen;

Installing the steps

The steps are installed from below and gradually move upward. They are attached to the beam with self-tapping screws or wooden pins. It is advisable to lubricate both of them with wood glue before use. The heads of the screws must be well sunk into the wood to avoid foot injuries.

Having decided to build according to individual project, a private developer often finds that the porch, built along with the house, accounts for a disproportionately large share of the estimated costs. Designers and builders are not cheating here: the extra corners of the foundation and its projection under the porch require in-depth calculations and technical measures to ensure uniform shrinkage of the structure. Therefore, in many cases it turns out to be advisable to build a house without a porch, and then attach a porch to it with your own hands. Moreover, such work is feasible for a person with initial experience as an amateur builder or without any, and a porch correctly attached to the house will not affect the strength of the building’s structure.

Material selection

A porch can be attached to the house made of brick, stone, concrete, wood or steel, welded from profiles or cold forging. Brick is undesirable: natural soil chemistry, microflora and microfauna splash on it during rain, which quickly destroy the material. Exactly because of this reason brick houses built on a plinth with a height of 400 mm. A completely forged or stone porch is difficult to construct and will be very expensive. It will be much easier and cheaper to build a porch simple shapes and then faced with stone or the same brick or decorated with overhead forged elements.

As for the aesthetic qualities of the remaining materials, the statements that, supposedly, concrete house You need a concrete porch, and a wooden one for a wooden one; there is no justification for this. The houses in the photo below have a porch made of materials that seem to be incompatible with each other and with the main structural material of the building. However, it is immediately clear that they are combined. Technically, it is quite possible to attach a porch of any material to any house. That's what we'll do.

Base

It is necessary to build the porch in such a way that during seasonal movements of the soil and due to unequal shrinkage, the house and the porch do not influence each other. Cracks along the contours of the interface between the house and the porch are undesirable in any case, but in no case should they disrupt the structures of both. If a crack does appear, you need to be able to repair it without starting complex construction work.

Fulfilling these conditions ensures a properly executed porch base. A private house and the porch subsequently attached to it must have separate foundations; this is, generally speaking, general principle construction of extensions to a house that has already shrunk. Schemes of porch bases on different cases life are given in Fig., and we will analyze the ways of connecting the porch with the main structure along the way, because For different materials porches they are different.

Note: if height slab foundation under the porch is more than 200 mm, then its reinforcement (see below) must be done in 3 levels. Replace non-recessed and columnar foundations masonry from ready-made concrete blocks, with rare exceptions (see below), is extremely undesirable, because then, due to the low weight load, the base of the porch will be unstable.

Tree

A wooden porch looks great in any home and with any decorative design. The easiest way to build a porch is from wood. The foundation for a wooden porch also requires the simplest one to perform: a columnar or shallow foundation, see fig. The last one (on the right in the figure), in general, as they say, a song is one of 2 cases when you can use ready-made concrete blocks– “bulls” 400x400x200. If the span of the porch stairs (see below) is made of magpie boards up to 900 mm, a couple of “bulls” will be enough. Span up to 1300 mm - the treads of the steps are reinforced from below with 40x40 backing beams. The span is larger - additional support blocks are needed.

On 3 fig. Below are typical designs of wooden porches. Standard design individual housing is made based on studying the requests of developers, so it is quite possible that you will find a porch here that is suitable for you. But the main thing is to pay attention to the ways of connecting wooden parts.

The great advantage of a wooden porch is that it can “play” with the movements of the ground, while remaining tightly connected to the house. Therefore, a wooden porch does not need a particularly stable foundation. But there is no need to “tighten” the frame of the wooden porch either; it should move a little, as if on hinges, see fig. on right.

No special hinges are required; ordinary carpentry joints are quite elastic and pliable for this. Each porch in Fig. with the projects it is done in such a way that it will play out ground movements up to highly heaving ones, without transferring excessive stresses to the structure frame house. And the “framework” will withstand it, and so will any other one.

Ladder

The staircase is the most complex component of any porch, and a wooden staircase is more difficult to make than others. However, this does not require heavy long-term work and a wooden staircase can be attached to any other porch. Therefore, it is from the stairs that you should begin developing your own porch to the house.

Essential elements

The staircase, as is known, can be made with bowstrings and on stringers (sloping corners), see fig. For a staircase with bowstrings, the ends of the step platforms - risers - are covered by the beams supporting the steps, while for a staircase with stringers, the ends of the steps are free. Wooden stairs for use on outdoors It is preferable to do it on stringers so that moisture does not stagnate in the gap between the string and the step and does not cause the wood to rot.

The space between the bottom of the upper step and the tread of the lower one is called the riser; it can be open or closed (deaf). The steps of one flight of stairs, assembled in bowstrings or on stringers, make up a flight of stairs. The overhang of the step over the riser (step shoulder) allows you to increase the width of the tread without reducing the angle of inclination of the flight, and, accordingly, the reach of the staircase - the length of its projection onto the underlying surface. It is undesirable to give a step overhang of more than 30-40 mm; people will cling to it with the toes of their shoes. To prevent shoes from getting knocked off on the overhang, the blind riser is sometimes made beveled forward, flush to the front edge of the tread of the top step.

Note: general schemes devices and fastenings of wooden stairs are given on the following. Fig., and we will look into the details further.

Calculation

The external stairs may be wet or icy. People often climb it tired, chilled and wet. Therefore, the height of the steps of the external staircase should be kept optimal - 160-175 mm, and the angle of inclination of the flight within 30-40 degrees. For the same reasons, the tread width is taken larger than for internal stairs - 280-320 mm. There is no need to give it more than 350, it will be inconvenient to sprout. The flight of external stairs, based on walking in outerwear, should, if possible, be taken no less than internal stairs double pass, i.e. from 1300 mm.

Note: the slope of the march is calculated as arctg(h/w), where h is the height of the step, and w is the width of the tread without overhang.

Also, for ease of walking and reducing the likelihood of slipping, stairs are designed so that a person leaves the last step with the same foot with which he stepped on the first. It follows that there must be an odd number of steps on the ladder. Based on these data, knowing the area available for the stairs from the outside, it is calculated. If the calculation does not converge, you need, firstly, to “play” with the size of the overhang. In addition, the staircase to the porch most often goes out onto the landing. This makes it possible for the upper last, so-called. frieze step, make it already. Well, there is usually enough space in front of the house to accommodate the staircase extension. Finally, you can vary the width of the platform, but if it is less than 750 mm, it is better to abandon the platform altogether.

Staircase on stringers

The most important component of the staircase to the porch is its connection to the building. On the left in Fig. shows ways to connect stairs on stringers without a platform. Pairing by pos. 1 (stringer with a groove) is preferable for a wooden house, which also “plays” well and gives less shrinkage. The cross-section of the platform beam (which in this case is attached to the lower crown of the frame or log house) here is sufficiently 75x50 mm.

To attach the stringer without cutting (item 2 on the left), a platform beam with a diameter of 100x50 mm is required. This method is preferable for attaching stairs to stone and concrete structures. In any case, the tread surface of the upper step should be located 50-60 mm below the top of the door threshold in anticipation of further shrinkage of the house.

On the right in Fig. – methods of attaching a flight of stairs to the landing, depending on the width of the frieze step. If the platform is wooden (see below), then it will act as a damper between the stairs and the building; in this case, the stringer can be firmly attached to the platform beam, for example, with steel angles and self-tapping screws. Otherwise, the stringer is attached to the beam with a tie-in without cutting.

Methods for attaching steps to the stringer are shown in the following. rice. Fastening to fillets and steel holders is labor-intensive, but the good thing is that you can use regular 150x50 or 150x75 timber on the stringers. Larger width lumber per cubic meter costs significantly more, because There is a lot of wood waste when sawing timber.

Note: The dowels in this case are wooden dowels, not furniture dowels!

Area

A wooden landing is usually framed from timber from 150x150. Support pillars, if they are wooden, are made of the same timber. If the width/length of the platform exceeds 1.7 m, you need to install the crossbar(s) also from 150x150 timber. The frame strapping bars and crossbars cut into half the tree at the joints.

The flooring of the site is laid along 150x50 logs. The logs are placed parallel to the short side of the platform in increments of up to 750 mm (under the flooring made of magpie boards) and are cut into the frame and crossbars also half-timbered. Flooring boards should not be tongue-and-groove; they will rot! The porch area is covered with boards with rounded corners with gaps of 2-3 mm for water drainage. Spacer boards for external installation wooden flooring Available for sale, on the left in the figure.

Note: in general, the entire porch should initially be designed so that the ends of the boards/beams are protected from direct exposure to moisture. It’s better to immediately give a little excess and cut it off than to later worry about what to do with the rot. An example of the correct execution of a porch railing is on the right in Fig.

Staircase in bowstrings

A staircase on stringers does not always suit the preferred porch design. In this case, the staircase in bowstrings must be designed in such a way that it is as resistant to external influences as possible.

General device wooden stairs in the bowstrings is shown in Fig. You can make do with pairs of narrower boards for bowstrings instead of one wide one using overlays for steps - rivets - pos. A. The grooves are cut from slabs that are resistant to external influences. wood material, eg. OSB. Their thickness, for steps from forty and bowstrings from “fifty kopecks”, is from 18 mm.

Fastening bowstrings with screw cords is the simplest and most reliable way, but, as you understand, the pieces of iron stick out. Fastening with cords on steel wedges is quite reliable and invisible, but it requires strings with a thickness of 75 mm or more. Fastening on steel wedges is labor-intensive and requires considerable carpentry skills: for the wedged tenons of cords with a height of 50 mm in the bowstrings, you need to select blind sockets with a dovetail profile. When assembling the march frame, the bowstrings are tapped firmly, but evenly and carefully, with a wooden sledgehammer - a leopard. The tendrils of the thorns of the strands are then tightly wedged in the swallowtails. Bowstrings for assembly on ties with steel wedges need to be oak, and ties (from 60x60 mm) are needed from high-quality straight-grain pine. Not from larch, it's fragile!

Of great importance for the accuracy of assembling stairs in strings is the accuracy of their markings for steps. The main methods of installing (joining) steps into strings are given in the figure:

The steps of external stairs in bowstrings must be placed on backing bars or grooves. This, firstly, reduces the possibility of moisture accumulation in the grooves under the treads/risers. Secondly, the march frame can be assembled and, if necessary, trimmed before installing the steps. Both make making a wooden staircase with bowstrings feasible for beginners.

The diagram for assembling a staircase in bowstrings “for dummies” is given in the following. rice. A green novice woodworker can even make beveled risers this way (shown in pale tone). On the right in Fig. - methods of attaching steps to it. Here we should add to the above that there is no need to put treads on the steel corners in the external stairs - they will rust.

Metal porch

A metal porch is the second most popular after a wooden one. A do-it-yourself steel porch is most often made for a dacha: here the appearance, as they say, is not very impressive, but the entire structure can be welded in advance in production conditions, delivered and delivered ready-made. A steel porch without forged decorations will cost less than a wooden one, not to mention a concrete one.

Due to their elasticity, metal structures are very little susceptible to damage from soil movements. But it is also capable of transferring great efforts to the structure of the building. Therefore, on medium to more than average heaving soils, the steel porch should be made floating, like a monolithic concrete one (see below). The foundation under it can be laid with a lightweight slab, with a 100 mm thick slab flush with the ground surface and single-level reinforcement. On weak and non-heaving soils, a steel porch can be made cantilever-supported (see below) with supports from a pair of “bull” blocks under the heel.

A steel porch is usually assembled on stringers as shown in Fig. The channels for the stringers and the platform frame are 60 mm; corner for step frames – equal flange 40 mm. The logs for the platform flooring are made from the same corners welded into a T-shaped profile (half-Tee). The support pillars are supplied with steel pipes from 100 mm.

This design is optimal for production in industrial conditions, incl. piece and small-scale handicraft. The fact is that for precise welding of step frames, three-dimensional jigs are needed. When welding outdoors under weight, a novice welder’s steps will probably come out skewed. Or, to assemble such a staircase on site, some experience is required, see for example. track. video.

Video: example of assembling a metal staircase

A beginner can get out of this situation in several ways. The first one is shown in pos. and the rice above: instead of voluminous frames of steps on the plaza (a flat, durable, fireproof platform), flat fillies for the steps are boiled. Their treads are either wooden hanging ones, or any (for example, stone) laid in flat frames from the same corner. In both cases, the tread or frame for it is attached to the fillets with screws, which allows you to level the steps. The bad thing about this method is its high labor intensity and increased material consumption. Wooden treads will also not receive proper support, so you need to take thick ones.

The second method is shown on the left in the following. rice. Here the labor intensity and material consumption are less, because After welding, pipe stands are cut to the horizon using a grinder according to the level and mooring cord. According to this scheme, there is a temptation to reduce the volume of earthen and concrete work by making a staircase on one stringer, on the right in Fig. However, it requires a cutting machine: the slightest misalignment of the channel filly stands - and the steps go for a walk. You can make a cutting machine yourself by attaching an angle grinder to a swing arm, the hinge of which is installed in a durable frame, but whether it’s worth doing is up to the owner.

Finally, the simplest solution is a porch covered with OSB or plywood, and on it decorative finishing, on straight frame. Its structure is clear from the following. rice. All parts of the frame are flat and are cooked on the plaza. A foundation for such a porch is not needed at all; it hangs on the foundation of the building, this is the so-called. cantilevered porch (see also below). It rests on the blind area of ​​the house with adjustable screw legs, so please note: the frame is attached to the foundation of the building only at the top, as shown in the figure! Fastening – bolts from M8x130 with steel collet anchors. The spacing of fastening points is up to 600 mm. Since the porch is always wider, intermediate posts are needed in the rear frame of the frame. Which will not interfere with other frames with a height of more than 400 mm.

Concrete porch

A concrete porch option is actually not much better than a brick one: it is labor-intensive, and the work is hard and material-intensive. It requires a reliable, stable foundation and fits very poorly with the building. True, it will stand on a separate foundation no less than the house itself. Aesthetically, a concrete porch justifies itself only in a house of purely utilitarian design (on the left in the figure); Technically it goes well with a porch-patio (terrace, veranda, on the right in the figure), but the terraced porch must be built together with the house.

Also, at the same time as the building, a cantilever (hanging) and cantilever-supported porch is being built, pos. III and IV on the next. rice. Because here we're talking about about the attached porch, we will confine ourselves to the remark that the cavity under the concrete porch (liner) must be well ventilated, otherwise it will turn into a center of dampness and a nesting place for all sorts of indecent living creatures.

Only a floating concrete porch is attached to an existing house, pos. I and II. A more detailed diagram of its device is shown at the bottom right in Fig. Instead of rigid mineral wool, the expansion joint (width - 10-12 mm) can, and even better, be laid with basalt cardboard. A sheet of mineral wool or a sheet of basalt cardboard is carried on the sides outside the porch monolith and temporarily attached to the foundation of the building with self-tapping screws in dowels through wooden slats. You cannot attach the seam filling to the foundation of the house in the area where the porch adjoins it!

A typical, one might say, defect of a floating concrete porch is a chronically occurring crack between it and the foundation of the building. It is not dangerous, but it shows off in plain sight, like the red nose and bags under the eyes of an alcoholic, and generally without cracks it is better. Therefore, it is better to attach a concrete porch to a house on a separate foundation, slab or pile-slab, depending on local conditions (see figure with foundation diagrams).

You can read so many wonders about foundations for a concrete porch in RuNet! It is advised, say, to do it on washed, pressed or driven piles. And the house is right next to it, right next to it, standing on a monolithic Precambrian rock? Will piling work have any impact on the reliability of its foundation? If a concrete porch is built on a pile-slab foundation, you need to keep the following in mind:

• Wells for piles are drilled manually with a garden drill.
• Piles are reinforced and poured into roofing felt cages using a standard method.
• The piles are located symmetrically along the diagonals of the foundation slab with a distance of 250-350 mm from the corners.
• If any of the sides of the porch projection is more than 1.8 m, the piles are laid in an envelope (item 1 in the figure below).
• The belts (levels) of the reinforcing grid of the slab are secured with binding wire to the vertical branches of the pile reinforcement immediately after the concrete in them has set. The distance from the bottom chord of the reinforcement to the top of the bedding is 40-80 mm.
• To speed up the work, a sand and gravel cushion under the slab can be poured through the reinforcing lattice of the slab. The remaining backfill from the reinforcement is swept away.
• A slab up to 200 mm thick is poured in one layer, and a thicker slab is poured in layers of 15 cm.
• The newly poured layer of concrete is pierced with a sharpened steel rod approximately in the middle of each grid cell to release air.
• The next layer of concrete mortar is poured as soon as the previous one begins to set. With this method of filling, the so-called. hydraulic compaction of concrete.

Note: It is possible to reinforce the foundation of a concrete porch with both steel and fiberglass (composite) reinforcement.

The porch is flooded when concrete slab will dial approx. 15% durability. Practically - on the 2nd - 3rd day after the concrete of the foundation slab has set. There is no need to reinforce a concrete porch with multi-level powerful reinforcement (item 2 in the figure); It is enough for each step to have one reinforcing belt made of steel mesh from 40x40x3 to 60x60x5, pos. 3.

Formwork boards must be impregnated in advance mineral oil(by practicing, for example), so that later they can be removed more easily. If the concrete porch does not need finishing, it is advisable to thoroughly sand the formwork from the inside and seal the seams between the boards with wood putty. So external surfaces the porches will be smooth.

Professionals, working to order/for hire, fill the porch in one go; time is precious to them. Working for yourself, the porch can be filled in stages, pos. A-E in Fig. In addition to saving material, the porch will be insulated and less susceptible to displacement by soil movements. Each subsequent step is poured as soon as the concrete of the previous one has set. The porch steps are concreted as follows. order:

1. The leveled and compacted gravel or expanded clay backfill is filled with a cement-sand 1:3 solution of high fluidity, with a water-cement ratio (WC) of 0.72, until all pebbles or granules are hidden. That is, the solution should be as thick as liquid sour cream;
2. As soon as the primary fill begins to set, pour the usual concrete mortar(cement: crushed stone: sand 1: 5: 3) of normal consistency in a layer of 4-6 cm;
3. The first layer has just set concrete pouring, lay the reinforcement and pour the step to the top of the formwork section. If wooden or stone treads will be installed on concrete, screw anchors for them are walled up at this step;
4. The filled step is deaerated (deaerated) as described above;
5. Immediately after pouring the next stage, iron the previous one: sprinkle with dry cement M400 and rub it in thoroughly wooden block(item 4 in figure)

Note: diagram by pos. A-E is given for a floating porch. Pouring a porch on a foundation using this method differs only in the absence of the initial pouring of the first stage with cement-sand mortar.

The rear wall of the porch (pos. E) is poured in layers of 15 cm with deaeration and hydraulic compaction. The procedure for filling it is the same as for the steps. Wooden or stone treads are placed on propylene spacers with steel washers, pos. 5.

Canopy and canopy

A porch with a porch is definitely better than an open one. Not only in terms of convenience, but also the safety of the building: the entrance door opening is the place from which damage to the building’s structure most often begins under the influence of weather conditions. Roof attached porch can be a canopy on columns or a hanging canopy attached to the wall of a building.

The canopy columns of an attached porch must be concreted separately from the porch foundation, and even more so from the floating porch. Removal of the bases of the columns forward and to the sides from the outer corners of the porch or its foundation - from 0.5 m; better - 1 m or more. The reason is the same difference between the shrinkage of the porch and the house. If the bases of the columns are not rigidly connected to the porch, the forces of frost heaving will press the canopy against the wall. On the contrary, tear it off the wall.

Note: It is necessary to treat the lower parts (roots) of wooden columns with bitumen at least 400 mm above the ground level. The reason is the same as why building with brick can only be done on a plinth. In addition to impregnation, wrapping the roots of wooden columns with roofing felt will not harm, but keep in mind that it will not protect the above-ground part of the column root! In the light, roofing material is destroyed over time by solar ultraviolet (UV) radiation.

A hanging canopy does not fundamentally create problems in coordinating shrinkage. It cannot be mounted only on frame and prefabricated panel walls; in all other cases, a hanging canopy is technically preferable to a canopy on columns. Schemes of porch canopy frames welded from 40-mm corner angles are given at the top of the figure, and drawings of a wooden porch canopy are shown below. All of these canopies, except arched and gable ones, must be equipped with a drainage gutter with ebb to the side (to the sides). The overall width of a wooden canopy made of 75x75 timber can be increased to 2.5 m; for this purpose acc. increase the size marked with an asterisk.

Attaching visors to stone or concrete wall– with 8x130 self-tapping screws in propylene dowels or M8x100 bolts in collet anchors. TO wooden wall– wood screws M8x120. Canopy roof decking – any suitable (soft, steel or ceramic tiles, polycarbonate, slate, etc.); Under any roof, except polycarbonate, lathing is required. You need to cover the canopies with polycarbonate, observing the rules for working with this material: turn it outward with the UV-resistant side, structure channels along the slope, cover the edge with filter tape, attach it to the frame using thermal washers, etc.

About glazing of porches

A glass porch is cool and fashionable. In many cases it is also convenient. But - it is possible to glaze without fear only a porch built together with the house on a common foundation. As for the porches attached to the house, no technical guarantee for the safety of their glazing during more than one season is possible in principle.

Finally: how to search for information

You may need accurate working drawings of one of the typical porches. For example, you built it yourself according to a standard design, but so far without a porch. Unfortunately, there is no way to include in a review article at least part of the technical documentation even for one project, but the most popular typical projects of individual residential buildings are available on the Internet for free distribution.

In order not to “Google” in vain for a long time and painfully, but to go straight to the porch, in the search bar of your browser you need to type “ Standard project 18..." or "Typical design solutions 8…". A row will pop up for you preliminary results according to documents available for free download like “Standard design 186-214-9.87” (this is a precast concrete porch made from ready-made monolithic parts) or, say, “Standard design solutions 820-1-088.88” (drawings metal porch), or “Standard project 189-000-362.85” (these are drawings of a wooden porch), etc. The rest is clear. We look at what is suitable - download it, decide on materials and costs, and build it.

Any happy owner of a country plot rejoices at the opportunity to relax from the bustle of the city in nature. To create comfortable living conditions you need a beautiful, warm, spacious house, bathhouse, outbuildings.

There is no way to get by without building a structure. The appearance of the building largely depends on how the entrance group is decorated. Let's look at what the porches of houses can be like, what they can be built from, and we'll also look at how to make a porch at the dacha with your own hands.

Finished construction

For almost all buildings, the entrance door of which rises above the surface of the ground, a porch in front of it is a mandatory attribute. It should perform two functions: decorative ̶ to be a decoration of the facade and practical ̶ to ensure comfortable and safe movement, as well as protect the entrance group from the influence of unfavorable external factors.

Components:

1. Ladder. This is the main element of the porch structure.

Requirements for stairs and their components are prescribed in SNiP 02/31/2001 “Single-apartment residential houses”, GOST 8717-2016 “Concrete and reinforced concrete steps”, SNiP II-25-80 “ Wooden structures", GOST 23120-2016 "Stairs and steel railings".

In individual buildings it is allowed to deviate from current standards. When arranging them, owners can focus on their own taste and ease of use for family members and guests.

The parameters of the staircase elements that allow you to move comfortably along it are as follows:

• Staircase width: at least 90 cm.
• Step depth: 25-33 cm.
• Riser height: 15-20 cm.
• The angle of inclination of the stairs should not exceed 45 degrees.

1. Area.

The platform should be 5 cm below the edge of the entrance door. Its dimensions for convenient opening of the door: length of at least 1 m, width - one and a half times the width of the door leaf.

1. Canopy or roof.

The canopy must withstand wind and snow loads, protect people and the entrance group from precipitation and scorching rays of the sun.

1. Walling.

Fences must be continuous, equipped with handrails at a height of at least 0.9 m, and withstand loads of 0.3 kN/m. When installing baluster posts, it is recommended to leave a distance of no more than 20 cm between them, and if there are small children, no more than 15 cm.

There are many manufacturing options, but a staircase, even if it consists of two or three steps, and a small platform must be present.

The main elements of the porch structure are shown in the photo:

Components

Kinds

Let's look at the various options.

Designs can be classified according to the following criteria:

Example of a structure

1. On the construction of the foundation. The building can be built on a common foundation with the building or be an extension on a separate one.

Building on a separate foundation

1. According to the shape of the structure.

There are a huge variety of types: from simple, rectangular or semicircular, to the most complex, sometimes even bizarre shapes.

1. By operating time. The structure can be built temporarily, for ease of climbing into a building under construction, or as a durable structure.

Temporary structure

1. By organizing the entrance into the building, structures can be made with one or two lateral lifts.

But the most popular options are those with a front entrance to the house.

Straight lift option

1. According to the degree of security of the area in front of the door. Buildings can be equipped with canopies, fences, and have completely blank or only partially closed walls.

Fully closed type

The choice of design is often determined by the financial capabilities of the owners, the requirements for the porch structure (to provide protection from falls, bad weather, prying eyes).

Open with canopy

The platform can be used not only as an entrance to the building, but also to create additional recreation areas. If size allows, the building can be turned into a cozy terrace or veranda for organizing gatherings with family or friends.

Terrace option

By equipping the terrace with wicker furniture and decorating it with decorative elements: curtains, flowers, lanterns, you can completely transform the appearance of the building.

1. By the look of the stairs. It can be monolithic or arranged on guides (stringers and bowstrings).

These elements can be replaced by a frame or cast reinforced concrete structure.

1. According to the material from which the structure is made.

The construction of the building must be in harmony with architectural style the entire building. You can immediately select suitable materials and not use cladding, or first create a base structure, which is then finished in accordance with the overall design of the facade.

Materials for porch structures

Here are the materials most used by builders for stairs:

• Tree. This material is still one of the most popular for country houses. His big advantage consists of accessibility, aesthetics and the ability to make a porch yourself.

Wooden type

Wooden structure, perfect would be better suited for a building also made of wood.

Important! Particular attention should be paid to carefully treating the wood from fire, moisture and insect damage.

• Metal. A structure made from this material has many significant advantages. Structures made from it are strong and durable, but do not forget about periodic treatment against corrosion.

This type can be ordered from the manufacturer, however, if you have some idea about the operation of the welding machine, then it is quite possible to build a simple structure with your own hands. Without finishing, metal does not look very attractive.

Wood, WPC, and various types of tiles are often used for cladding. Forged elements add a special charm.

Application of metal

• Brick. Another type of material, the use of which will ensure the durability of the extension to the house. If you have any idea about brickwork, it’s quite easy to build a beautiful brick structure with your own hands at the dacha.

Application of bricks

The brick structure will look ideal on the facade of a building lined with bricks or blocks. A very interesting option would be to move away from straight lines in the form of steps.

• Blocks. Blocks various types are less commonly used in the construction of porches, but this option also has a right to exist.

application of blocks

The porch, built from blocks (like the whole house), needs to be finished due to its not very attractive appearance.

• Concrete. A concrete structure made using technology will last a long time. It is durable, safe, and not susceptible to weather disasters. The appearance of such structures, of course, leaves much to be desired, but when using facing materials you can get a real work of art.

Concrete type

Cladding materials

The facing material serves to give the extension an attractive appearance and also ensures its durability. It must be durable, unaffected by weather, safe (non-slip).

As finishing materials you can use: siding, WPC, wood, brick, various types of tiles, panels, natural and artificial stone.

Materials for fencing and canopies

• Railing. Fences for porch structures perform protective and decorative functions. They protect people from falling and make them look attractive.

Fences can be screen or lattice. Materials for their construction can be: glass, WPC, PVC, metal, polycarbonate, wood, stone.

• Roofs and canopies. To ensure a comfortable stay for people in any weather, as well as to protect the entrance area from precipitation and sunlight, canopies or roofs are installed over the structure.

Canopies are mounted either directly to the facade or supported on vertical supports. The type of fastening depends on the area and weight of the structure itself and the condition of the building wall (ability to withstand loads).

The frame of canopies is usually made of wood or metal, and the canopies themselves can be made of glass, polycarbonate, metal, metal tiles, slate, and soft roofing materials.

When arranging a canopy, you should provide a drainage system to protect against excess moisture and provide comfort to people.

Having become familiar with possible designs porch and materials for their manufacture, we will consider options on how to make a structure at the dacha.

Construction

For a more complete introduction to how to make an extension of this type to a country house yourself, a video is offered in this article:

So:

1. Preparatory work. You should start with preparation, which includes: choosing a structure (including the type of foundation), taking dimensions, selecting materials, making a drawing, clearing the area.

Sample sketch

1. Purchase of materials.
2. Foundation construction. The foundation can be pile, slab, strip and columnar. When choosing the type and depth, the type of soil, groundwater level, and massiveness of the structure should be taken into account. It should be noted that for concrete structures and brick porches the foundation must be solid. You must remember to lay waterproofing on top of the finished foundation.

Strip foundation

Important! The foundation should not be in contact with the foundation of the house. For insulation, a special layer is used, for example, mineral wool.

1. We are building. Let's look at the most popular options.

Wooden porch

Manufacturing instructions:

• For work you will need: bars for supports (100x150 mm), logs (their thickness is determined by the size of the platform and the load on it), boards for stringers (50x300 mm) and steps (35-40 mm in thickness), material for decking the platform, balusters, handrails, fasteners. All wooden parts must be impregnated with fire retardants and antiseptics.
• The platform frame is installed. To do this, vertical supports are installed, as shown in the photo. When the supports are immersed in the ground, a cushion of sand and crushed stone is placed in dug holes (at least 50 cm deep), then the flat stones. Beams are installed level. After this, the remaining space is filled with cement mortar.

Important! The solution should harden completely.

The height of the vertical beams is leveled. The logs are placed on the supports using a tongue/groove connection or special stainless steel brackets.

• A staircase is being installed in the country house. Stringers are attached (with pre-cut recesses for treads and risers). The upper end of the stringers is fixed to the beam, the lower end is best attached to the foundation.

Design

• The risers and treads are secured to the stringers with self-tapping screws (in addition, you can coat the joints with glue).

• Using self-tapping screws, the flooring of the platform is laid.
• Railings are being installed. To do this, support pillars are mounted in the corners. A bar is stretched between them, to which the racks are attached, fixed on top with handrails.

• If required, a canopy is installed.

Wooden look

Concrete type

The construction of a concrete porch takes a lot of time, so you will have to be patient.

To make it, you can use a ready-made solution or prepare the mixture yourself. The problem of how to make a mortar for pouring with your own hands is not difficult to solve: you will need a concrete mixer, cement grade no lower than M400, river sand, crushed stone and water. The mixture is diluted with water, starting from the ratio: cement (part), sand (2 parts), crushed stone (2 parts).

• Installation of formwork. This is the most important point when making a concrete extension. Boards, plywood, chipboard, sheet metal or plastic (if you need to make rounded shapes). The formwork elements must be firmly fixed. Wooden elements It is recommended to cover it with drying oil to facilitate dismantling.

Formwork

• Reinforcement. For this purpose, reinforcement bars with a diameter of 10 mm are used, which are connected to each other at a distance of 10-15 cm, or metal grid. In order for the reinforcement to be in the “body” of the concrete structure, it should be laid on supports, the role of which can be played by broken brick. Broken stones and bricks can also be placed inside; they will increase strength and save mortar. If railings are installed later, you can install embedded elements.

• Pouring concrete. The prepared concrete is poured into the formwork. To compact the mixture, it is worth processing using a deep vibrator. The surface is leveled according to the rule.

After this, the structure should be covered with film. The formwork material can be dismantled a week after pouring; all other work must be left until completely dry designs (month).

Concrete look

To finish a concrete structure, the materials described above are used. If planned by the project, fences and a roof are installed.

The article discussed possible options installation of porches for dacha buildings, as well as advice on how to build a porch at your dacha with your own hands.