Staircase to the second floor: how to close the opening. Staircase wall decoration. Arrangement of staircase openings. A standard set of indicators is also calculated

28.10.2019

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There is a desire to isolate the air volumes of the two floors of the house as much as possible. This will allow various modes use of the house to heat the floors differently. Why might this be necessary? I'll consider three different modes heating of the house: initial, normal, maintenance. And I’ll try to analyze what requirements they impose on the insulation of floors, the location and arrangement of stairs.

The initial operating mode begins from the moment you enter the house and ends with the arrangement of the second floor. In order to move into the house faster, there is a desire to equip only the first floor at the first stage. Accordingly, only drown it. And only after insulation and completion of the facade, begin to equip and heat the second floor. After this, normal operation begins. It must take into account that warm air And carbon dioxide rise up. And if the staircase between floors is not isolated from the premises of the first floor, it will always be hot and stuffy on the second floor, and cold on the first. And finally, the maintenance regime becomes interesting during periods when few people live in the house. You won’t notice how the children will grow up and come home only on short visits. It makes no sense to heat the entire house for two people. Again there is a desire to cut off the second floor and heat it only to maintain a minimum required temperature. This also makes us think about the layout of our bedroom.

Each mode imposes its own requirements for insulating two floors. The initial mode imposes the most stringent requirements for insulation. To implement it, it is necessary to thermally insulate the ceiling of the first floor, as for external structures. The opening in the ceiling for the stairs must be completely blocked. And you also need to thermally insulate all ventilation pipes passing through the second floor. IN normal mode no additional insulation of the ceiling and pipes is required. You just need to isolate air spaces first and second floors, so that warm air does not escape from the first floor to the second through the staircase opening. In maintenance mode it will be useful and additional insulation overlap (this is a question) and possibility with minimal effort block the stairs so that the second floor does not get too cold from the first.

Next I want to analyze possible options placement of stairs, their pros and cons. Placing a staircase in the airy space of the living room is definitely not suitable. There are options for locating the staircase in the hallway, vestibule or in a separate staircase.

You can place the stairs in the hallway. In this case, it will be better if there are doors between the hallway and all rooms on the first floor, rather than free passages. You also need to think about and take into account the air flow through the doors thanks to exhaust ventilation in the toilet, kitchen... Placement in the hallway seems to be the most comfortable for passage from the living room and kitchen to the second floor.

You can place the stairs in the vestibule. Air insulation of floors will be better than when located in the hallway. However, the stairs will be in a semi-cold room. The second floor will cool down faster when in contact with the vestibule. The passage from the living room to the second floor through the vestibule may not be very comfortable. But passage from the street will be faster. It will also be necessary to separate the walking paths in the vestibule: with shoes from the street and without shoes from the first to the second floor. Most likely you will need to take off your shoes in the vestibule; in winter this may not be very pleasant. To keep your feet from freezing in the vestibule, you will need a warm floor. Placing the staircase in the vestibule makes the two floors more independent from each other, up to the possibility of being used by two families. But when used by one family, it may be less convenient.

The staircase can be placed in an isolated stairwell. That is, the entrance and exit to the stairs on both the first and second floors will be blocked by doors. In this case, the insulation of the two floors will be the best, but the usability and effectiveness of the staircase may suffer. To improve convenience, it is imperative that the doors on the staircase can be constantly open on both floors when insulating them is not necessary. To improve the efficiency of the wall staircase must be insulated as external structures.

The entrance to the staircase can be arranged both from the vestibule and from the hallway. With a staircase, some of the disadvantages of both options disappear. If you enter the staircase from the hallway, it is no longer necessary to make closing doors from the hallway to other rooms. By locating the entrance to the staircase in the vestibule, the problem of cooling on the second floor is also solved. The remaining pros and cons of placing the entrance from the hallway and vestibule remain the same as for the open staircase.

So, the placement of the staircase makes it possible to very effectively isolate two floors, not only in normal mode, but also in initial mode and maintenance mode. True, a handsome man disappears from the house decorative element, decorating the house, and the “entrance” appears. It takes a lot of thought to make it convenient and enjoyable to use.

If you can only get into the attic by placing a stool on a chair, or if you have to tiptoe through the bedroom to get to the study on the second floor, if in order to get to the basement you have to run through the rain and cold, then you need new staircase. The first stage of creating a staircase is making a hole in the ceiling and installing new beams along its boundaries. Due to the fact that when installing a new staircase, the floor area on two floors changes greatly, it is necessary to carefully consider the location of the hole for the staircase. Try to position the stairs so that existing walls do not have to be moved or removed. For a normal turn on the stairs when entering and exiting it, there must be a space between the upper or lower step and the wall that is at least as wide as the width of the stairs. Also try to position it in such a way that its installation does not affect electrical wiring and water or heating pipes. And if you can plan the staircase so that the hole in the ceiling is located along the beams, you will simplify the job of installing the beams framing the hole, since if the hole is transverse to the beams, you will have to install six new beams.

At the very beginning of planning the location of the stairs, consult with a specialist supervising the quality of construction. Building codes and the rules define the minimum width and clearance of stairs. It is these dimensions that determine the dimensions of the hole in the ceiling. If the staircase leads to one room (other than the kitchen or living room), it can be only 600mm wide. In most other cases, the minimum width is 800 mm. The length of a standard stair opening should provide sufficient space between the ceiling and the steps. Building regulations require a height of at least 2 m, but remember that the greater the clearance, the more comfortable it will be to walk tall people and the easier it will be to move furniture. The dimensions of the opening in the ceiling depend on the type of staircase being installed. The rules for constructing an opening are basically the same for any type of staircase and are described on these pages for the case of installing a staircase in a basement. Once you have determined the dimensions of the opening, add at least 50mm on all sides for finishing once the stairs are installed. To cut an opening, you need to remove part of the floor, cut the beams and remove part of the ceiling (this does not apply to the basement shown here, which has no ceiling). For subsequent finishing of the opening, use pieces of boards removed from the ceiling, which can be used to cover the protruding additional longitudinal and transverse beams. Cover the edges of the plaster and the ends of the floor boards with boards or plywood that are nailed to the joists of the opening. To create a more attractive appearance, cover the gaps with platbands. An unguarded opening for stairs is dangerous and is not permitted by building codes. Your job is not finished until you enclose it with a balustrade or simple railing.

Anatomy of a staircase.

1. If the opening is along joists, remove parts of two joists and connect the hanging ends of the joists to the remaining joists using two short crossbeams. Cross beams must have a thickness and height equal to the corresponding parameters of the main beams, and are attached with angles to additional beams installed along the long sides of the opening. In the example shown here, the right longitudinal beam of the opening consists of an existing beam attached to a new beam. On the left, in order to obtain the required opening width, two new beams were installed between the existing floor beams. If the opening is located next to a stone wall, the cross beams can be embedded at one end into the wall. Mark the planned opening on the lower surface of the floor, adding 50 mm on all sides for finishing. For most stairs, mark out as described on the following pages. Add reinforcement beams to each long side of the opening and then install support beams and adjustable jack stands outside the narrow sides of the opening about 500mm away. At each corner, drill holes in the floor from bottom to top.

2. Open up the holes. Go to the top and locate the holes drilled in the corners of the opening. Measure 100 mm from each hole along the opening to install the cross beams. Mark four chalk lines to mark the elongated hole. Make cuts along the two sides of the hole, at right angles to the floor boards, then make cuts parallel to the floor boards.

3. Removing floor boards. Knock out the sawn pieces of floor boards by hitting them from below with a piece of board. Finish the top with a claw crowbar.

4. Removing beams in an opening. Saw the beams flush with the opening, having a helper support the beam from below so that it does not jam the saw. The cut parts of the beams can be used to make double cross beams, which are needed to strengthen the opening. Cut two pieces of beam to fit the hole and fasten them together with 100mm bolts or nails, driven in a staggered pattern.

5. Installation of cross beams. Nail 100mm wide brackets to each end of the double cross beam. Press the cross beam against the sawn ends of the beams, aligning their top edges. Nail the brackets to longitudinal beams, driving nails into all holes of the brackets. Place 50mm wide brackets into the joints between the sawn beams and the cross beam and nail them in place. Finally, nail the cross beam to the ends of the sawn beams using two 150mm nails. Install the second cross beam in the same way.

Very often, when a building requires expansion of living space, the attic space is turned into a room, but at the same time there is a need to install a staircase that will connect it with the rest of the living space.

This need also arises if we're talking about about two or more storey building. In order to build an interlevel staircase, you must first make a staircase opening in the ceiling. Photos and descriptions of the process will be presented in this article.

Preparing for the arrangement of the staircase

Before you start work, you need to think through some important points on which the success of the entire enterprise will directly depend:

Location of the hole. The location of the opening should be carefully considered, at the same time taking into account that the floor will become noticeably smaller, because In order to turn normally when walking up the stairs, you need to leave a space not narrower than the stairs between the wall and the upper and lower steps. Its optimal location is considered to be one in which the hole in the slab runs along the beams.

Width of the stairs. If there is one room on the floor to which the staircase leads, then its width is made at least 60 cm. But if there are several rooms on the floor, then it is made wider.

The staircase opening cut into the slab must be of a length that leaves sufficient space between the ceiling and the steps.

The distance between the edge beam limiting the hole in the ceiling and the steps must be at least 2 m. This determines the ease of use of the staircase.

The size of the staircase opening. When deciding on the dimensions, you should take into account the type and design of the staircase that will subsequently be installed. To install a straight staircase you will need much more space than, for example, for a screw. Having decided on the length and width of the staircase opening, you need to add 5 cm on each side for finishing.

Before you start making a hole in the ceiling, it is necessary to partially disassemble the floor covering, cut the beams and remove a section of the ceiling. Flooring boards should not be thrown away because... they may be useful in further work.

Cutting a hole in a wooden ceiling

To make a hole in a wooden ceiling you will need a not so complicated tool, for example:

a circular saw;

self-tapping screws;

screwdriver;

wooden beams;

metal corners.

If a hole for an opening is cut in the interior of a residential building, then the beams that form it must be fastened between the floor beams.

Actions must be carried out in this order:

in the section of the floor where the opening will be located, it is necessary to cut one beam or two, if there is not enough space, but more than this amount cannot be cut due to the risk of collapse;

attach paired beams, to which 2 more beams will then be attached, forming an opening parallel to the beams running in a row. After this, short ones are attached to them, providing greater rigidity and strengthening the structure. The dimensions of the paired beams must exactly match the main ones;

all elements are connected to each other through metal corners and self-tapping screws. It is also possible to use a profile for fastening. If the opening is located in close proximity to a brick wall, then the beams should be fastened with one side into it.

Making an opening in a concrete slab

To arrange an opening in concrete slab, you should stock up on the necessary tools and materials, namely:

metal profiles;

metal corners;

welding machine;

fittings;

wire;

rope;

mesh for plaster.

The work is carried out in the following sequence:

If the opening is located in the ceiling next to a stone wall, the transverse beams are embedded at one end into the wall. The node for supporting a beam on a brick wall is solved similarly to the node for supporting a platform beam. Seat subsequently plastered.

Unlike the opening in wooden floor, which can be cut into already finished design, the opening in the floor made of reinforced concrete slabs must be left in advance, even during the process of manufacturing this floor.

The contour of the opening is framed by steel profiles: channels, I-beams or a structure made of corners. To create monolithic sections formed on one or both sides of the contour of the staircase opening, steel beams are placed along the floor slabs, similar to beams in a wooden floor. They are supported on opposing walls, and two transverse beams are inserted between them, forming an opening (Fig. 33). The steel beams are fastened to each other by welding. The steel frame thus obtained rests on opposite walls in the same way as all other floor slabs. An opening for the stairs is left inside this frame, and reinforced monolithic sections are made along the edges. The direction of the shelves of the longitudinal beam profiles is best done inward monolithic area, this simplifies the production of a concrete monolith. The location of the shelves of the cross beam profiles does not matter, but when decorating an opening with wood, sometimes it is better to direct them inside the staircase opening.

Rice. 33. Construction of a staircase opening in a ceiling made of reinforced concrete slabs

The entire steel frame needs to be raised 20–30 mm relative to the lower plane of the floor slabs, then when constructing a monolithic section, cement laitance will flow under the profiles and hide the metal. To prevent this layer of cement from subsequently falling off and exposing the steel profile, wire shorts must be welded onto its lower flange and with their help, the plaster mesh must be secured to the beams.

Sometimes to save money steel profiles instead of a design with longitudinal load-bearing beams from channels or I-beams, a beamless scheme is used. In this design, there are no longitudinal beams, and the opening is formed with steel corners, resting their shelves on adjacent floor slabs. This design partially transfers the weight of the monolithic section and the stairs to the adjacent floor slabs. After checking the load-bearing capacity of floor slabs by calculation, this design can be used in small monolithic areas. For wide devices stairwells It's better not to do it.

Reinforcement of monolithic sections is assigned according to the project or calculation. The lower formwork panel is made on the ground and pulled with ropes to the installation site. Where it is attached with wire twists to the beams carrying the formwork. Boards mounted on edge or thick reinforcing bars or crowbars can be used as beams. Wire loops are thrown over these beams, inserted between the branches of the mounting wire and the wire begins to twist. Thus, the formwork panel is attracted and pressed against the adjacent floor slabs. To prevent laitance from leaking out, the shield is covered with plastic film or glassine. Reinforcement of monolithic sections and filling is carried out concrete mixture. The twisted wires remain forever in the body of the concrete. When stripping, their ends protruding from the monolith are cut down or trimmed with a grinder.

The ladder is an indispensable element for multi-storey buildings no elevator or bunk apartments. At the same time, stairs are also important for one-story buildings: the difference in the level of the ground and the house, one way or another, will differ due to the foundation, and it will simply be impossible to get into the attic or basement without a ladder. Let’s take a closer look at how stairs are modeled and which projects are the most popular today.

Designing stairs: optimal sizes

The ease of use and safety of the ladder depends on the size and ratio of all its elements. The dimensions of any (from straight to screw) structure are regulated by the “Building Codes and Rules”, on the basis of which all calculations and design of stairs must be made.

So, comfortable and reliable internal stairs residential premises must have:

The width of the flight of stairs is within 1.25-1.5 meters (for country houses the width can be reduced to 800 cm).
Minimum tilt angle is 35 degrees, max is 45.
The height of the passage is at least two meters or 50 mm greater than the height of the tallest resident.
The depth of the treads is 250-350 mm, and the height of the riser is 150-250 mm.
Balusters 900 mm high, handrails that are easy to grip.

The number of steps in a flight is measured according to the individual parameters of the room. To do this, the ceiling height (3000 or 2700 cm depending on the building) is divided by optimal height riser The resulting value is rounded up.

Staircase diagram and methods for modeling it

The schematic plan of the staircase contains instructions for all sizes of structural elements. So, the figure should indicate the height and width of the steps, the length of the stringers, indicate the angle of inclination of the structure, the dimensions of the marching and winder steps, transition platform. You can draw a diagram of the staircase on paper, carrying out the calculations yourself, or create it using online calculators with a designer for designing stairs (we design structures very carefully, carefully checking the obtained values with SNiP, because the reliability of the staircase depends on this).

The disadvantage of online programs is that the resulting model of the staircase is typical, and the design itself is shown schematically. It is quite possible that such modeling will not be suitable for rooms with non-standard parameters and ceiling openings. Compose more detailed project computer visualization will help with staircases with two or three-dimensional detail.

Today, the most popular programs for designing stairs are:

Sweet Home 3D.
SketchUp.
Pro100.
Autocad.
Sema.

The executive diagram of the staircase is drawn for each group separately (if the design is complex, then a separate drawing may be needed for each stair element).

In order to understand how the calculated structure will look, visual kirigami models are often used, from which one can easily build the structure to scale.

House project with stairs in the living room

The staircase in the living room should not only be a functional, reliable and safe lifting element, but also have an attractive appearance, emphasizing the style of the room and the taste preferences of the owners.

The choice of staircase type depends on the dimensions of the room. In order not to overload a small room, it is better to choose open structures with light carved fences and thin bowstrings. Curvilinear stairs or structures on rails are perfect.

A spiral staircase to the second floor can be placed in the middle of the room: such an element will become not only practical, but also decorative, and will fit perfectly into the interior of loft-style rooms. For minimalist living rooms you can choose compact stairs on bolts that emphasize the geometry of lines and openness of space.

Staircases for large apartments should be spectacular, emphasizing the breadth of space and harmonizing with it. The most popular stairs to the large hall are made of solid wood (oak, beech, ash). Often such stairs are made closed, and the space under the stairs is decorated with built-in appliances, furniture, and niches. It is convenient if there is a doorway opposite such a staircase.

You can make a straight, wide wooden staircase to the hall with your own hands: you need to carry out calculations or find finished project, purchase lumber and construction tools.

Practical design of a staircase outside the house

Most often, the role of external, main staircases is performed by concrete and reinforced concrete structures, the support for which is fixed in the ground. Such stairs are created by installing formwork, reinforcement and pouring concrete; they are durable and have a high load capacity.

Finishing of entrance stairs can be done using:

Wood (oak, beech, hornbeam and other hardwoods).
Natural stone (granite, marble, quartz).
Artificial stone.
Brick.
Ceramic tiles (frost- and UV-resistant floor, concrete, sidewalk tiles).

If the porch decoration has smooth surface, then the steps should be equipped with anti-slip thresholds: this will increase the safety level of the stairs in winter.

The location is considered the most convenient external staircase directly in front of the entrance to the house. If this is not possible, then a porch or platform is built in front of the door, to which a staircase leads. In addition, the lifting outdoor installation can be remote and lead directly into the premises upper floors(bypassing the first one), to the balcony or attic.

Such a staircase can be:

Direct (for example, mine).
Curvilinear (for example, screw).

Most often, such stairs are made of metal. The main thing is that when placing such a structure, it should not interfere with the passage into the house and the entrance to the garage; preferably, it should not block the windows.

Staircase in a narrow hallway opening

Often corridor openings in private houses look like elongated polygons small sizes(this can often be found in houses made of 8x8 timber). In such buildings, a staircase option is needed that can effectively save space, while looking attractive and being reliable.

The most popular stairs that can save a square meter are:

Corner staircase with a winder platform. Is ideal option. Using a platform instead of steps makes the stairs more convenient and safe for small children and the elderly.
Samba type staircase (“goose step”). This design saves space as much as possible, but can be inconvenient when ascending (you must always start with one foot) and descending (due to the small width of the step).
Vertical staircase. Both a spiral and a straight (modular or extension) staircase can be successfully placed even in a very small corridor.

Staircase in narrow corridor can be made of wood or metal. The choice of frame depends not only on the type of structure, but also on the design of the corridor. For loft and hi-tech interiors, compact spiral staircases are suitable, the supports for which are presented in the form of metal racks (the steps, in this case, can be made of wood, glass or metal mesh).

Owners of apartments in Scandinavian style, classic or country interiors, you should opt for wooden structures on bowstrings.

Ceiling opening for stairs: design compliance

The type of staircase is determined not only by the layout of the hallway or living room, but also by the parameters of the opening in the ceiling. The ceiling opening is the opening into which the flight of stairs opens. This gap can be of almost any size and shape.

So, for a narrow, rectangular opening (in a living room) the following would be ideal: an L-shaped staircase and a “goose step” type structure. You can try using a ladder on rails, making the upper steps a little shorter than the lower ones (the transition should be smooth, and the length of the upper steps should be at least 750 mm). If the opening is very small, then you should choose modular stairs on one stringer or attached structures.

An ideal option for round openings would be spiral staircases. The angle of rotation of such structures is determined by the height of the ceilings, and can be completely different.

Small ceiling openings in utility rooms can be equipped with retractable stairs, which are easily attached to the hatch cover.

What should be the openings for stairs (video)

Today it is impossible to imagine any building without a staircase: these installations have found application even in one-story houses (for example, entrance stairs). You can choose a ready-made project or design an individual staircase using programs for 2 and 3D visualization. The main thing is that the design is durable and safe, has an attractive appearance!

Attention, TODAY only!

You can’t even imagine how versatile laminate is as a finishing material! gain popularity. And indeed it is great way give a beautiful, stylized wood look to a staircase that is quite worn out, or concrete stairs, which looks gloomy and cumbersome.

Finishing a porch with high quality is not that difficult!

Tools and materials for working with laminate

List of materials to be purchased:

laminate and glue for it;
edge profile;
self-tapping screws

Since the staircase is subject to heavy loads during use, we will need a commercial laminate. This means that the first number indicated in the laminate class should be 3, the subsequent value depends only on your wallet. We also purchase special glue for laminate. It is desirable that the width of the board matches the height of the step and the length of the step. Otherwise, you will have to fasten the laminate with locks, which means a loss in strength.

What is an edge profile and what types does it come in?

An edge profile is a decorative strip used to hide the angle formed by the slats. There are several types of edge profiles: metal, wood and plastic. Often, metal L-shaped thresholds are used as an edge profile. There are also special laminated profiles from the Quick Step company. They are attached using a metal guide to the step, to which the laminated profile is attached using glue. This connection is more durable, since the profile has grooves and double fastening is obtained.

Laminate staircase finishing: options

Options and methods for decorating a staircase opening with your own hands differ only in what profile you have chosen: L-shaped or specialized. Installing an L-shaped profile is easier to implement and cheaper in price, but is inferior in connection strength to a specialized one.

QuickStep profile - looks impressive and lasts a long time

The use of L-shaped thresholds when finishing the staircase opening to the second floor and porch

Visual decorative properties L-shaped thresholds are inferior to laminated ones. In terms of strength, laminated ones also win. However, if you are not a specialist and are restoring the staircase in the house yourself, this option is for you. It is lighter and cheaper.

Let's get started:

The first step to improving the porch or staircase to the second floor is preparing the stairs for installation. It is necessary to remove all contaminants, including dust, remove the old coating, if any, and also level the elements.
We cut out blanks from the laminate for laying on the steps. To do this, measure the width of each step. Even if the staircase is visually straight, this does not mean that the sizes of the steps in it are really the same. Therefore, we take measurements of each step. To avoid confusion, it is recommended to number the workpieces.
Glue the laminate to the vertical part of the step. To glue the laminate to the riser we will need a notched trowel. After applying glue to the riser, spread it evenly over the surface with a spatula. Laying the laminate begins from the top step. Subsequent lamellas should be of such a size that there is a gap between the lamellas approximately equal to the thickness of the laminate used.
Glue the laminate onto a horizontal plane. Using a spatula, spread the glue along the steps to a thin layer and press the prepared lamella.
We install the threshold. Wooden thresholds can be attached either with glue or with screws. We fix plastic thresholds only with glue, since it will simply break under the influence of a screw, and we screw metal ones with screws to special mounting holes.
We perform the same actions for all subsequent steps. If there is a flight of stairs on the stairs, then the laminate is laid there in the usual way: secure with locks.

After completing the installation work, you must refrain from walking up the stairs to the second floor for 24 hours. And if the edge elements are fixed exclusively with glue, then two days.

Using specialized thresholds: step-by-step instructions

This method of finishing a porch or staircase at home is more labor-intensive, but your efforts will be rewarded with aesthetics and increased strength compared to the previous method.

We are carrying out preparatory work. We eliminate all unnecessary elements that may interfere with installation. We repair chips, holes and cracks in the stairs. We putty the wooden stairs. Also wooden stairs it is necessary to check for creaks and wobbles. If there are any, then you will have to go through the entire structure and reinstall it more tightly.
We measure the length and height of the steps, and then transfer the measurements to the laminate.
We begin the installation of the laminate from the top step, since this way we will avoid movement of the laminate, which is secured with still wet glue. Just as in the previous method, it is necessary to maintain a gap between the horizontal and vertical plane. Apply glue to a vertical surface and spread it evenly with a spatula.
We install a specialized guide profile. To do this, apply on the reverse side metal profile glue and press firmly to the top of the step. Since the design of the metal profile with a guide is much larger than the L-shaped threshold, glue alone is not enough. Every 15 cm it is necessary to secure the profile to the riser using screws.
Apply glue evenly to the tread and lay the laminate. We try to connect the first lamella into a lock with the laminate, which lies on the floor of the second floor. We slide subsequent lamellas under the lamellas lying on a vertical surface. This is why we left a gap in the previous steps. The gap can be set using bars or cutting small pieces of laminate from the leftovers.
We install a rubber insert into the edge profile.
We fill the grooves of the laminated profile with glue and firmly place it on the metal guide.
We repeat the procedure step by step until we finish finishing the staircase or... You should not walk up the stairs as much as in the previous method.

As you can see, everything is quite simple, and as time will show later, it is also very effective. How do you finish the porch? Tell us about it in the comments!

The staircase opening is a kind of window in the interfloor ceilings. From this review you will learn about the types of openings for stairs, the features of their calculation and design.

4 types of openings for stairs

For comfortable, safe movement, it is necessary to select the optimal parameters of the staircase opening.

The design of the skylight that completes the rise can be very different. It depends on the configuration of the stairs, design solutions. By shape ceiling holes classified as follows:

Rectangular. On the picture standard option, it is most often chosen by owners of private houses. Design and execution in this case are the least complicated. The length of the opening varies depending on the configuration and size of the flight of stairs. The ease of use of the staircase structure depends on the correctly selected parameters of the opening.
Semicircular. Suitable for both marching and screw ascents. Our range also includes stairs suitable for this opening:
The spiral staircase "Prestige" is an ideal option for small openings. Our company offers this product at a price of 73,691 thousand rubles.
Non-standard. This definition includes all the variety of forms. Their implementation, as a rule, is caused not by the impossibility of using standard solutions, but by the creative flight of imagination of the designer. Creating an opening in the form of a trapezoid or polyhedron is not easy, but if the result is most important, then it’s worth considering this option.

Create an opening non-standard shape, as in 4 photos, it’s not easy and only a specialist can do it

Calculation of opening sizes

Calculating the area for the construction of a staircase has its own characteristics. When performing it, the layout of the first and second floors is taken into account. The site for installing the stairs is determined in advance and the boundaries for the opening are outlined. You can learn a lot of useful information about calculating the staircase itself and the opening under it by watching this video:

If the staircase leads to the attic or to one room, then an opening 0.6-0.7 m wide is sufficient. When you need access to a hall that unites several rooms, then for convenient movement you need an opening width of at least 0.8 m.

Features of calculating the size of the opening in the ceiling are as follows:

First you need to design yourself staircase structure- determine the number of steps, slope, geometry.
Here you can’t do without calculating the following parameters:
- span heights;
- width of the stairs;
- length of the structure;
- riser height;
- tread depths.
Based on the height of the span and the size of the steps, it is determined which step will be at the level of the upper floor. A special algorithm is used for this:
- determine the distance between the floor and the ceiling, for which the thickness of the ceiling is subtracted from the interval between the floor of the first floor and the floor of the second;
- the height of the steps is subtracted from the result one by one;
- stop the action when the result is less than 2 m, this means that the number of steps taken away will fit under the ceiling, and the remainder will go beyond the opening.
If you plan to install a turning staircase, then the width of the opening is determined by the level of the winder turning steps, and the length is equal to the length of 2 flights. The hatch for a straight staircase will be large due to the lack of rotation. For screw design opening equal to a circle stairs.

The straight staircase "Solo" from our company takes up a lot of space and is designed for large openings. Price 70.858 thousand rubles.

Arrangement of the staircase

Opening technology different types floors have varying degrees of complexity

It is best when the location of the stairs is already taken into account in the house design. Then the opening in the ceiling is left during the construction process, but it happens that you want to change the project or a decision is made to install the stairs in a completely different place, then everything has to be done in the already installed ceiling.

A successful resolution of the issue depends on the following 4 factors:

This video will help you decide on the parameters of the stairs:

Staircase opening in the wooden floor of a house in 4 steps

The easiest way is to make an opening in a wooden ceiling, although there are some nuances here too. If the distance between the supporting beams is sufficient for its installation, then no problems arise, but if there is not enough space, then the procedure is as follows:

Remove the floor and ceiling covering along the contour corresponding to the future opening.
Cut 1 or 2 beams in the place allocated for the opening, but no more, otherwise the ceiling will lose its load-bearing capacity.
Install paired beams, the same in size as the main ones. They are needed in order to attach 2 more to them to form an opening. To strengthen the structure, transverse bars are added, the cross-section of which is equal to the cross-section of the main beams.
All elements are connected to each other using metal corner profile and self-tapping screws. If the opening is adjacent to brick wall, then one side of the beam is attached to it.

Opening in a concrete slab

Opening under the stairs in concrete floor It is better to leave it during the construction of the house. In size it will correspond to a standard reinforced concrete slab.

The staircase usually occupies a smaller area, so after the opening is equipped, the remaining space is concreted. Technological process consists of 8 operations:

To make the metal frame invisible, it is mounted 2-3 cm higher relative to the lower edge of the slab. When pouring the solution into the formwork, it will flow under the profile and hide the frame. To prevent the cement from peeling off, bottom part short metal pins are welded to the profile, and a plaster mesh is attached to them.

If, when designing a house, the issue of creating an opening for the stairs was overlooked, then you can do it yourself using a powerful grinder, hammer drill and other auxiliary tool. You just need to do it at the junction of the slabs, otherwise you will weaken the ceiling, and the consequences can be the most unpredictable.

You need to act according to the following scheme:

Since the floor slabs will have to support the weight of the stairs and the monolithic section, it is possible to make an opening using this method only for narrow stairs. It is unacceptable to create an opening under wide massive stairs using this method.

To obtain an excellent final result, you need accurate calculations, compliance with basic rules. An opening in the ceiling is an unsafe structure, so its construction should be approached with the utmost seriousness. If you have no experience, please contact us. Our professional team will help you with advice, if necessary, perform calculations, and select the optimal opening option for the staircase you like.

Good evening. Please tell me... I’m finishing construction at the dacha two-story house. When you come for a few hours in winter, you don’t have time to heat the whole house. What is the BEST way to make a valve on the stairs so that warm air does not escape to the top? Your option? Thanks in advance.

Alexander, Tver.

Hello, Alexander from Tver!

I haven’t been to your city for a long time, although I wandered around it for excursion purposes, sorted out problems in Polytechnic Institute(or what is it called now?) and at the military registration and enlistment office of the Proletarsky district.

Sorry for the nostalgia, it must be senile.

So, to the point of your question.

For fast heating On the first floor of garden and country houses, in my opinion, the most effective is the use of a heat gun with a power of about 3 kW. Arrived, turned it on, in small room After an hour it’s quite comfortable. True, the energy consumption can be decent.

But it is necessary to cut off the premises of the second floor immediately. In the presence of stove heating and firewood, the problem of heat even in the absence of electricity can be solved more easily, but more slowly. By the time you heat it, an hour or two may pass, or even more.

My team and I are solving the problem of isolating the first floor from the second in several ways.

The first, the simplest - with the help of all kinds of curtains from thick and thick curtains, blankets or cotton mats. They are hung in the interfloor opening, if this is, of course, possible.

And if this problem is solved permanently, then depending on design features, they make either a hatch with insulation, which blocks the passage between floors, or something like a vestibule. That is, rooms between floors. Why do you need one or even two doors?

For example, the most common option is when a single-flight or double-flight staircase leads to the second floor, with an intermediate or turning platform. Most clients initially make these staircases completely open. You enter from the bottom steps and climb into the ceiling opening. Accordingly, the installation of the door (for winter version with separate heating) does nothing since at least one side of the staircase is completely open.

Therefore, it is necessary to cover one side of the staircase from the floor of the first floor to the ceiling with a vertical wall. /The second side usually runs along the corner of the house and is closed./ Most often, the wall is a frame covered with clapboard. In some cases, cladding frame wall It can be the same clapboard on both sides, with insulation placed inside. Instead of lining, you can also use plywood (but under no circumstances hardboard! It warps a lot.)

An opening is left under the door, into which a standard purchased door with a panel height of two meters and a width of 0.6 to 0.9 meters is then placed. The door can be covered with dermantine with insulation and have a threshold at the bottom. But more often it is not sheathed and does not have a threshold, but simply a mat is placed on the floor in front of it to cover the gap so that cold air does not flow in.

In the option with two doors, the second door is installed on the second floor (in the attic), where a vertical wall is also built from a frame and lining.

Because the usable space in our houses there are few, then both the lower and upper doors open in opposite directions from the stairs.

It should be said that such additional walls of an improvised stair vestibule do not always fit properly into the interior of the house, but there is one thing here, either warmth, or not a very presentable appearance. However, designers can recommend an acceptable option (albeit for an unacceptable amount).

All. Maybe someone can advise what is more practical.

Other questions on the topic Wooden stairs.

If you can only get into the attic by placing a stool on a chair, or if you have to tiptoe through the bedroom to get to the study on the second floor, if in order to get to the basement you have to run through the rain and cold, then you need new staircase. The first stage of creating a staircase is making a hole in the ceiling and installing new beams along its boundaries. Due to the fact that when installing a new staircase, the floor area on two floors changes greatly, it is necessary to carefully consider the location of the hole for the staircase. Try to position the stairs so that existing walls do not have to be moved or removed. For a normal turn on the stairs when entering and exiting it, there must be a space between the upper or lower step and the wall that is at least as wide as the width of the stairs. Also try to position the new staircase so that it does not interfere with electrical wiring or plumbing. heating pipes. And if you can plan the staircase so that the hole in the ceiling is located along the beams, you will simplify the job of installing the beams framing the hole, since if the hole is transverse to the beams, you will have to install six new beams.

At the very beginning of planning the location of the stairs, consult with a specialist supervising the quality of construction. Building codes specify the minimum width and clearance of stairs. It is these dimensions that determine the dimensions of the hole in the ceiling. If the staircase leads to one room (other than the kitchen or living room), it can be only 600mm wide. In most other cases, the minimum width is 800 mm. The length of a standard stair opening should provide sufficient space between the ceiling and the steps. Building regulations require a height of at least 2 m, but remember that the greater the clearance, the more comfortable it will be for tall people to walk and the easier it will be to move furniture. The dimensions of the opening in the ceiling depend on the type of staircase being installed. The rules for constructing an opening are basically the same for any type of staircase and are described on these pages for the case of installing a staircase in a basement. Once you have determined the dimensions of the opening, add at least 50mm on all sides for finishing once the stairs are installed. To cut an opening, you need to remove part of the floor, cut the beams and remove part of the ceiling (this does not apply to the one shown here basement devoid of a ceiling). For subsequent finishing of the opening, use pieces of boards removed from the ceiling, which can be used to cover the protruding additional longitudinal and transverse beams. Cover the edges of the plaster and the ends of the floor boards with boards or plywood that are nailed to the joists of the opening. To create a more attractive appearance, cover the gaps with platbands. An unguarded opening for stairs is dangerous and is not permitted by building codes. Your job is not finished until you enclose it with a balustrade or simple railing.

Anatomy of a staircase.

3. Removing floor boards. Knock out the sawn pieces of floor boards by hitting them from below with a piece of board. Finish the top with a claw crowbar.

5. Installation of cross beams. Nail 100mm wide brackets to each end of the double cross beam. Press the cross beam against the sawn ends of the beams, aligning their top edges. Nail the brackets to the longitudinal beams, driving nails into all holes in the brackets. Place 50mm wide brackets into the joints between the sawn beams and the cross beam and nail them in place. Finally, nail the cross beam to the ends of the sawn beams using two 150mm nails. Install the second cross beam in the same way.

You can’t even imagine how versatile laminate is as a finishing material! gain popularity. Indeed, this is a great way to give a beautiful, stylized wood look to a staircase that is quite worn out, or a concrete staircase that looks gloomy and cumbersome.

Finishing a porch with high quality is not that difficult!

Tools and materials for working with laminate

List of materials to be purchased:

laminate and glue for it;
edge profile;
self-tapping screws

Since the staircase is subject to heavy loads during use, we will need a commercial laminate. This means that the first number indicated in the laminate class should be 3, the subsequent value depends only on your wallet. We also purchase special glue for laminate flooring. It is desirable that the width of the board matches the height of the step and the length of the step. Otherwise, you will have to fasten the laminate with locks, which means a loss in strength.

What is an edge profile and what types does it come in?

Laminate staircase finishing: options

QuickStep profile - looks impressive and lasts a long time

The use of L-shaped thresholds when finishing the staircase opening to the second floor and porch

The visual decorative properties of L-shaped thresholds are inferior to laminated ones. In terms of strength, laminated ones also win. However, if you are not a specialist and are restoring the staircase in the house yourself, this option is for you. It is lighter and cheaper.

Let's get started:

The first step to improving the porch or staircase to the second floor is preparing the stairs for installation. It is necessary to remove all contaminants, including dust, remove the old coating, if any, and also level the elements.
We cut out blanks from the laminate for laying on the steps. To do this, measure the width of each step. Even if the staircase is visually straight, this does not mean that the sizes of the steps in it are really the same. Therefore, we take measurements of each step. To avoid confusion, it is recommended to number the workpieces.
Glue the laminate to the vertical part of the step. To glue the laminate to the riser we will need a notched trowel. After applying glue to the riser, spread it evenly over the surface with a spatula. Laying the laminate begins from the top step. Subsequent lamellas should be of such a size that there is a gap between the lamellas approximately equal to the thickness of the laminate used.
Glue the laminate onto a horizontal plane. Using a spatula, spread the glue along the steps to a thin layer and press the prepared lamella.
We install the threshold. Wooden thresholds can be attached either with glue or with screws. We fix plastic thresholds only with glue, since it will simply break under the influence of a screw, and we screw metal ones with screws to special mounting holes.
We perform the same actions for all subsequent steps. If there is a flight of stairs on the stairs, then the laminate is laid there in the usual way: we secure it with locks.

After completing the installation work, you must refrain from walking up the stairs to the second floor for 24 hours. And if the edge elements are fixed exclusively with glue, then two days.

Using specialized thresholds: step-by-step instructions

This method of finishing a porch or staircase at home is more labor-intensive, but your efforts will be rewarded with aesthetics and increased strength compared to the previous method.

We produce preparatory work. We eliminate all unnecessary elements that may interfere with installation. We repair chips, holes and cracks in the stairs. We putty the wooden stairs. Also, the wooden staircase must be checked for creaks and wobbles. If there are any, then you will have to go through the entire structure and reinstall it more tightly.
We measure the length and height of the steps, and then transfer the measurements to the laminate.
We begin the installation of the laminate from the top step, since this way we will avoid movement of the laminate, which is secured with still wet glue. Just as in the previous method, it is necessary to maintain a gap between the slats of the horizontal and vertical planes. Apply glue to a vertical surface and spread it evenly with a spatula.
We install a specialized guide profile. To do this, apply to reverse side glue the metal profile and press it tightly to the top of the step. Since the design of the metal profile with a guide is much larger than the L-shaped threshold, glue alone is not enough. Every 15 cm it is necessary to secure the profile to the riser using screws.
Apply glue evenly to the tread and lay the laminate. We try to connect the first lamella into a lock with the laminate, which lies on the floor of the second floor. We slide subsequent lamellas under the lamellas lying on a vertical surface. This is why we left a gap in the previous steps. The gap can be set using bars or cutting small pieces of laminate from the leftovers.
We install a rubber insert into the edge profile.
We fill the grooves of the laminated profile with glue and firmly place it on the metal guide.
We repeat the procedure step by step until we finish finishing the staircase or... You should not walk up the stairs as much as in the previous method.

As you can see, everything is quite simple, and as time will show later, it is also very effective. How do you finish the porch? Tell us about it in the comments!

A staircase is an indispensable element for multi-storey buildings without an elevator or bunk apartments. At the same time, stairs are also important for one-story buildings: the difference in the level of the ground and the house, one way or another, will differ due to the foundation, and it will simply be impossible to get into the attic or basement without a ladder. Let’s take a closer look at how stairs are modeled and which projects are the most popular today.

Designing stairs: optimal sizes

Thus, comfortable and reliable internal stairs in a residential area should have:

The width of the flight of stairs is within 1.25-1.5 meters (for country houses the width can be reduced to 800 cm).
Minimum tilt angle is 35 degrees, max is 45.
The height of the passage is at least two meters or 50 mm greater than the height of the tallest resident.
The depth of the treads is 250-350 mm, and the height of the riser is 150-250 mm.
Balusters 900 mm high, handrails that are easy to grip.

The number of steps in a flight is measured according to the individual parameters of the room. To do this, the ceiling height (3000 or 2700 cm depending on the building) is divided by the optimal riser height. The resulting value is rounded up.

Staircase diagram and methods for modeling it

The schematic plan of the staircase contains instructions for all sizes of structural elements. So, the drawing should indicate the height and width of the steps, the length of the stringers, the angle of inclination of the structure, the dimensions of the marching and winder steps, and the transition platform. You can draw a diagram of the staircase on paper, carrying out the calculations yourself, or create it using online calculators with a designer for designing stairs (we design structures very carefully, carefully checking the obtained values with SNiP, because the reliability of the staircase depends on this).

The disadvantage of online programs is that the resulting model of the staircase is typical, and the design itself is shown schematically. It is quite possible that such modeling will not be suitable for rooms with non-standard parameters and ceiling openings. Computer visualization will help you create a more detailed staircase design with two or three dimensions.

Today, the most popular programs for designing stairs are:

Sweet Home 3D.
SketchUp.
Pro100.
Autocad.
Sema.

The executive diagram of the staircase is drawn for each group separately (if the design is complex, then a separate drawing may be needed for each stair element).

In order to understand how the calculated structure will look, visual kirigami models are often used, from which one can easily build the structure to scale.

House project with stairs in the living room

The choice of staircase type depends on the dimensions of the room. In order not to overload a small room, it is better to choose open structures with light carved fences and thin bowstrings. Curvilinear stairs or structures on rails are perfect.

A spiral staircase to the second floor can be placed in the middle of the room: such an element will become not only practical, but also decorative, and will fit perfectly into the interior of loft-style rooms. For minimalist living rooms, you can choose compact staircases on rails, which will emphasize the geometry of the lines and the openness of the space.

Staircases for large apartments should be spectacular, emphasizing the breadth of space and harmonizing with it. The most popular stairs in Big hall– made of solid wood (oak, beech, ash). Often such stairs are made closed, and the space under the stairs is decorated with built-in appliances, furniture, and niches. It is convenient if there is a doorway opposite such a staircase.

You can make a straight, wide wooden staircase to the hall with your own hands: you need to carry out calculations or find a ready-made project, purchase lumber and construction tools.

Practical design of a staircase outside the house

Finishing of entrance stairs can be done using:

Wood (oak, beech, hornbeam and other hardwoods).
Natural stone (granite, marble, quartz).
Artificial stone.
Brick.
Ceramic tiles (frost- and UV-resistant floor, concrete, sidewalk tiles).

If the porch finish has a smooth surface, then the steps should be equipped with anti-slip thresholds: this will increase the safety level of the stairs in winter.

The most convenient location is the location of the external staircase directly in front of the entrance to the house. If this is not possible, then a porch or platform is built in front of the door, to which a staircase leads. In addition, lifting outdoor installation can be remote and lead directly to the premises of the upper floors (bypassing the first), to a balcony or attic.

Such a staircase can be:

Direct (for example, mine).
Curvilinear (for example, screw).

Staircase in a narrow hallway opening

Often, corridor openings in private houses look like elongated polygons of small sizes (this can often be found in houses made of 8x8 timber). In such buildings, a staircase option is needed that can effectively save space, while looking attractive and being reliable.

The most popular stairs that can save a square meter are:

Corner staircase with a winder platform. Is an ideal option. Using a platform instead of steps makes the stairs more convenient and safe for small children and the elderly.
Samba type staircase (“goose step”). This design saves space as much as possible, but can be inconvenient when ascending (you must always start with one foot) and descending (due to the small width of the step).
Vertical staircase. Both a spiral and a straight (modular or extension) staircase can be successfully placed even in a very small corridor.

The staircase to a narrow corridor can be made of wood or metal. The choice of frame depends not only on the type of structure, but also on the design of the corridor. For loft and hi-tech interiors, compact spiral staircases are suitable, the supports for which are presented in the form of metal racks (the steps, in this case, can be made of wood, glass or metal mesh).

Owners of Scandinavian-style apartments, classic or country interiors should opt for wooden structures on bowstrings.

Ceiling opening for stairs: design compliance

An ideal option for round openings would be spiral staircases. The angle of rotation of such structures is determined by the height of the ceilings, and can be completely different.

Small ceiling openings in utility rooms can be equipped with retractable ladders that can be easily attached to the hatch cover.

What should be the openings for stairs (video)

Today it is impossible to imagine any building without a staircase: these installations have found application even in one-story houses (for example, entrance staircases). You can choose a ready-made project or design an individual staircase using programs for 2 and 3D visualization. The main thing is that the structure is durable and safe, and has an attractive appearance!

Attention, TODAY only!

Often, a large facade window is made at the location of the stairs. This is not only a great way to add natural light to a room, but also beautiful design building exterior. However, in this case inner space becomes open to outside viewing; in addition, sometimes too much light may enter the window opening. You can use tinted glass, but this is not a cheap option. And if you decide to hang curtains or blinds, then you need to take into account some tips for decorating windows on stairs so that the end result does not turn out to be an unpleasant surprise.

At the design stage, all issues related to the appearance and interior layout of your home are determined. And you may be wondering: why spend money on a large staircase window? Is this really necessary? The answer is clear - you can’t do without lighting. This will ensure a safe and enjoyable climb. Although if it is not possible to provide the stairs with natural light, then it is worth thinking about organizing good artificial lighting. Staircase windows can have a variety of sizes and shapes. Interesting contours of openings can be emphasized with the help of curtains, as well as correcting unsuccessful ones. In addition, in this way it is easy to complement and complete the interior.

When decorating a window on a staircase, some difficulties may arise due to the following problems:

inaccessibility;
the presence of non-standard parameters in shape or size;
insufficient penetration of light due to orientation or some external obstruction.

The choice of design will depend on certain conditions:

It is necessary to decide on the style of the premises in which the stairs are installed. This will allow you to choose the correct, harmonious window design.
The second question you must answer is whether to hide or decorate the window.
Well, the third condition is quite banal - how much are you willing to spend.

If the staircase in your home is lit by natural light, then here are some tips for window decoration:

If you use curtains, then you need to choose their length correctly. They should not be allowed to lie on the platform or steps or, conversely, to be too short. It is also not recommended to tear the curtain in the middle of the wall.

If you have hung too much long curtain, but there is no desire to change it, because this process is not easy, you can assemble it on one side using a special cord. By the way, it can also be an excellent window decoration.

Blinds. Convenient to use. In addition, they now offer blinds with a pattern. Suitable for strict interiors in a minimalist style.
Windows without curtains are suitable for people with high fences and no nosy neighbors. In this case, you can use borders to decorate the window. They are cut out according to a pre-drawn stencil.
Tinted glass can be left without additional decoration if the window has a beautiful shape, an interesting shade and, perhaps, thin window frames that are fashionable now.
If there is a wide wall and the window is installed without a quarter or close enough to the surface outer wall, you can install small glass shelves in the window opening. They will not overwhelm the appearance due to their transparency, but can be useful for installing some beautiful trinkets or indoor plants.
If the shape of the window does not inspire you, you can visually correct it with the help of curtains. To do this, its color should be as close as possible to the color of the walls of the room where the staircase is installed.
Also, in order to distract the eye from the unpleasant outline of the window, you can use more remarkable objects to decorate the adjacent wall: for example, paintings or family photographs in beautiful frames. An unusual floor covering can also help solve this problem.

It is worth choosing light curtains. They will allow you not to interfere with penetration sunlight into the room.
The choice of color for curtains is very important. It should be in harmony with the color of the walls or wallpaper, favorably shading or contrasting with them.
To create visual spaciousness in the intermediate area, you need to eliminate the use of decorative details.
If you want to make the ceiling visually higher, then you should use vertical ornaments.
Since through the big window hole a lot of light enters, this can lead to fading of the fabric and loss of color. To prevent this from happening, you need to choose the right curtain fabric. It should contain polyester, viscose and cotton.
To further emphasize beauty and elegance, you can install a stylish cornice.

Choosing curtains for window decoration

There are several main options:

French curtains. They are distinguished by soft drapery with many folds. This option is great for high window. Moreover, the material is not at all important. You can decorate the window with heavy satin or an airy veil. It all depends on the desired result.

If the window near the stairs is low, then French curtains For textiles, smooth fabrics are suitable. They will not make the structure bulky, but will add chic and shine to the interior.

Italian style. It involves connecting and fixing two sheets of fabric on the cornice, equipped with tiebacks on the sides. To decorate the junction of the canvases, bows or tassels are used. A ring or cord is suitable as a tieback. It is better to use heavy curtains. Great option There will be the use of double-layer curtains. For them, you can choose contrasting fabrics and a white base. The best opening for such curtains is narrow and tall. They will help you adjust the window size. This option will have a reasonable price, it is also easy to sew and easy to attach. This style will fill the room with romanticism and aristocracy.

Before sewing curtains, you need to take measurements of the window opening. For a variant with many folds, its width is at least doubled. The longer the fabric, the more folds you will get.