Mesh fence design. A chain-link fence without welding: detailed step-by-step instructions for craftsmen and photo examples of finished work. Chain-link mesh dimensions

Reading time ≈ 5 minutes

Today, with all the variety of fencing, few types of construction could replace a home-made chain-link fence.

Advantages of a chain-link fence

1. Very quick and easy to install with your own hands;
2. Low cost;
3. Lightweight construction, does not require a reinforced foundation;
4. Lets light through, will not create conflict situations with neighbors because of the shadow created;
5. A strict and unobtrusive appearance that fits perfectly into any landscape.

Installation methods

You can install a chain-link fence with your own hands in two ways:

1. Ordinary, as in the photo above, when the mesh is stretched between two support posts. This method is much cheaper and simpler. It is recommended to use in cases where the goal is not to achieve an impeccable appearance, but you just need to install a fence quickly and cheaply.

2. Sectional, as in the photo above, when ready-made fencing sections are produced, in which a fragment of the chain-link mesh is fixed. This method will be much more expensive, because you will have to acquire metal corners, the price of which is higher than the mesh itself, but the fence itself will be much more attractive and practical (for example, you can hang a carpet on top of the fence, dry something, etc.)

Materials

To install such a fence we will need the following materials:

1. Metal pillars 50x50x2x3000 mm;
2. Chain-link mesh (not galvanized, galvanized or plasticized);
3. Fastenings (nails, galvanized bolts);
4. Concrete M200.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a chain-link fence

So, how to make a chain-link fence with your own hands?

I. Marking the territory.

We begin work by driving in pegs in the corners of the area and pulling laces between them. We measure the length of the lace - this is the length required mesh chain-link, you also need to take into account +5-7% additional length “in reserve”. Next, we mark the locations of the supports, the optimal step is 2.5-3 m.

II. Installation of pillars.

In the event that after the construction of the house there remains a sufficient amount wooden beam or other material that you can use in future support pillars fencing; when the price of “timber” in your region is several times cheaper than metallic profile, or you just need a temporary fence - then you should use wooden supports. The surface of the wooden beam must be cleared of bark, and it is also advisable to treat it with antiseptics and waterproofing mastic, which will protect the material from rotting and pests. The pillars should be trimmed based on the desired height of the fence, as well as the depth of the foundation to be dug (the hole should be 100-150mm larger than the soil freezing depth, therefore, if you are counting on a two-meter fence, and the soil freezing depth is 800 mm, then you should prepare pillars with a height of 3 m). But such supports will not last long, so it is better to use metal poles!

If you decide to build a solid and durable fence, take care of purchasing metal posts. Installation of such supports requires concreting the base. The depth of the concrete pit should be 1/3 of the height of the fence. For example, if you planned to install a fence 2 m high, the depth of the hole should be at least 1 m (you should also take into account the freezing depth and heaving of the soil).

III. Chain-link mesh tension.

TO wooden base It is most convenient to nail the fence with nails.

DIY sectional chain-link fence

The main difference between this method and the usual one is the presence of a frame.

For installation sectional fence from the chain-link mesh we will need the following materials:

1. Metal posts 50x50x2x3000 mm;
2. Chain-link mesh, galvanized or plasticized;
3. Bent metal corner 40x40x3 mm
4. Metal rod and strips for welding
5. Concrete M200

Marking and installing the posts of a sectional chain-link fencing is no different from its simpler counterpart, but welding the frames will require some work. If you do not have good welding skills, then it is better to turn to a professional.

Owners of private territories are thinking about how to make inexpensive and reliable fencing. A chain-link mesh is perfect for this. Anyone can install such a structure; to do this, you need to have on hand minimum set tools.

Following the installation technology and choosing the right quality material, you can make a fence that will last about 20 years. It is important to ask what types of mesh can be found on sale today. The master needs to study the technology in detail to avoid mistakes.

Types of mesh

Before stretching chain-link mesh onto a fence, it is important to understand its types. This material is made from galvanized and black wire, so product quality may vary. Black wire material is quite cheap, but is short-lived and becomes rusty over time, which can happen after the first rain or fog, while after 4 years the material can become completely unusable.

You can extend the life of non-galvanized chain-link by covering it liquid rubber or paint. This must be done before the installation of the canvases, and after that it will be necessary to update from time to time protective layer. Before you stretch the chain-link mesh onto the fence, you should also know that the material made of non-galvanized steel is not afraid of corrosion, so it is ready to last longer. This mesh is a little more expensive, but does not require processing.

Fences made of galvanized chain-link look attractive and neat. The mesh can also be classified according to the size of the cells, the height of the roll and the thickness of the wire. As for the cells, they can have dimensions ranging from 10 to 65 mm, while the wire diameter varies from 1 to 5 mm. The height of the roll can be from 0.8 to 2 m. However, the most popular material is the one whose height is 1.5 m. Standard length roll is 10 m. You can order rolls of 20 m each. The material is more expensive than the smaller the cells, because this increases the consumption of raw materials.

How to stretch the mesh: step-by-step description. Welding hooks to supports

If you are thinking about the question of how to stretch a chain-link mesh onto a fence, then you need to start working by welding the hooks to the supports. When the concrete has compacted, which will happen in about a week, work can continue. The mesh can be secured using clamps or wire, but it is most convenient to use hooks.

You can find them on sale with welded hooks, but if you have them in stock welding machine, then it will be cheaper to make them yourself. To do this, use pieces of steel rod, nails, screws or thick wire. Anything that can be welded to a pipe and bent will do. Three hooks will need to be installed on a support 2 m high. The distance from the ground of the first hook should be 15 cm. The other will be located 10 cm from the top, while the third is in the center.

Mesh attachment

If you are faced with the task of how to stretch a chain-link mesh onto a fence, then at the next stage you should begin attaching it. To do this, the roll is installed near the corner support, where you need to unwind the material and put the cells on the hooks. The edge of the mesh must be securely fixed. After this, the fittings are attached to the pipe and welded. When the roll is tensioned, the mesh will not sag.

When its end is secured, the roll can be moved to the next support, and then carefully unwound. With a ledge from the junction of the mesh with the pipe of 15 cm, a steel rod is threaded into the cells. There is no need to weld it this time. This will allow the mesh to be tensioned evenly.

As soon as it is put on the hook, the rod is removed, and the roll is unwound for another span, now you need to take the reinforcement again. If you are thinking about the question of how to properly stretch the chain-link mesh onto a fence, then the above diagram must be used until you reach the end of the fence. In order to connect two canvases, you should use wire from the outermost vertical row.

How to prevent sagging of the canvas

Even if the mesh can be tensioned well, it may sag over time. Therefore, at the installation stage, it is necessary to take care of additional fixation of the chain-link between the supports. For this, 6 mm wire and a welding machine are used. If you are also one of those who are thinking about the question of how to stretch a chain-link mesh with my own hands, then it is necessary to thread the wire into the second or third rows of cells horizontally. The element should be located along the entire fence.

In those places where the chain-link will be adjacent to the posts, the wire must be welded. The lower edge of the chain-link is strengthened in the same way. On final stage the hooks must be bent. The fence canvas should be tightly secured to the supports, while the mesh will not bend or sag.

The final stage

Once the fence is ready, the finishing touches can be done. To do this, plastic plugs are put on the pipes, the posts are painted, and the upper tendrils of the mesh are twisted into 2 turns and bent down. At this point we can consider that the installation of the fence is complete.

Installation of a chain-link fence

If you are interested in constructing a chain-link fence, then you need to know that at the first stage you should arrange the sections. For this purpose, pillars are installed. This can be done after clearing the area of ​​vegetation. The territory is leveled; the foreman should determine the location of the outer supports. Pipes for them must have a larger cross-section than intermediate ones. They need to be deepened further.

For intermediate supports, a square profile pipe with a side of 40 mm is usually used. But for corner supports it is better to take a pipe whose cross-section is 60 x 40 mm. In addition, they should be 20 cm longer. If you are faced with the task of how to properly install a chain-link fence, then you must clean the pipes from oil stains and scale, prime them and leave them to dry. By using hand drill Holes are made in the ground, a cushion of sand is poured into the bottom and compacted well. Next, profile pipes are inserted, which should be leveled.

The space in the pits is filled with crushed stone, which must first be mixed with soil. Filling should be done to 2/3 depth. The remaining space is filled concrete mortar. The verticality of the pillars at this stage must be checked again and leveled if necessary. Once the solution has hardened, the spacers can be removed and you can begin marking for the intermediate posts.

Installation of intermediate supports

A rope should be pulled between the corner posts, departing 15 cm from the ground. The line is divided into equal segments that will correspond to the width of the span. Optimal width for the fence there will be a distance of 2.5 m. If this parameter is increased, the mesh will sag.

How it is conducted correct installation You can find out how to tension a chain-link mesh if you read the article. In place of the pegs, which are installed at the marking stage, you should drill holes for intermediate posts and prepare a cushion for them according to the method described above. To make it more convenient to control the upper edge of the supports, you can stretch a rope between the outer pillars. Now you need to install the pipes, level them vertically and in height, add soil and crushed stone, pour concrete on top and level the surface.

Conclusion

Chain-link fence on summer cottage will become the most profitable solution. Such a fence will not obscure cultivated plants. In addition, it is quite difficult to climb over such a fence, which will allow you to prevent unauthorized persons from entering the territory. Such fences can also be used for zoning on a site. You can do the installation yourself, which will save you money.

The popularity of chain-link fences is explained, first of all, by the ease of installation of the structure, its durability and relatively low cost. Many property owners are interested in how to make a chain-link fence with their own hands, we will tell you. In addition, it should be noted such important qualities of fencing made from this mesh as:

• excellent ability to transmit light, which is very important in small areas;
• breathability, allowing good air circulation;
• low windage of the fence in strong winds;
• high elasticity of the fence as a result of tension.

Two or three people will be able to make a chain-link fence with their own hands around a plot of 10-15 acres over the weekend, and at the same time they will not be required to have high qualifications in performing construction work.

Video instruction

Types of mesh Rabitz

On construction market Today you can purchase 4 types of mesh, depending on the material used and the technology for its manufacture:

• A simple “black” chain-link, designed for plastering and reinforcement. It is practically not used for use as an external fence. It is highly susceptible to corrosion, does not paint well and is quite fragile.
• With the aim of reliable protection against corrosion, a polymer-coated mesh is produced. However, it can only be used in sectional structures, since long sections swaying in the wind lead to abrasion protective coating and the appearance of rust. Besides, different ratio thermal expansion of plastic and metal leads to mobility of layers and reduces the service life of the fence; its cost will be more expensive.
• The most commonly used material for fencing is galvanized chain-link. It costs 10-12% more than black wire, but is made from more ductile wire and has a durable protective layer of zinc. Even better, more reliable and more durable is a mesh made of of stainless steel, but its prices are much higher than those of other materials.
• Twisted mesh is distinguished by mesh size and wire thickness. For external fencing, material with a mesh size of 50 mm, made from 1.6-2.0 mm wire, is quite suitable. If you have poultry in your yard, then the mesh size should be reduced to 25-30 mm, and if you have livestock, use reinforced chain-link, made of wire with a diameter of about 4 mm.

The width of the mesh rolled into a roll is from 1.2 m, the length of the material in a roll is from 10 m. Rolls longer than 10 m are rarely purchased, because heavy weight significantly complicates the performance of work.

When purchasing material, you should take into account that only vertical mesh is used to construct the fence. Horizontal arrangement of spirals used for reinforcement and plastering works, will seriously complicate the connection of individual panels, and therefore can only be used for sectional type fences.

Installation of a chain-link fence with your own hands

In private construction, they most often fence their site using the following technologies for constructing a chain-link fence:

• continuous canvas stretched over strings;
• continuous fabric fixed to veins;
• using sleg;
• a fence assembled from sections;

Each method has its own operational properties, differs in cost necessary materials and the complexity of the work.

The simplest device has a chain-link fence in the form of a continuous web stretched along three horizontal strings.

It has good elasticity and resistance to wind, with the lowest cost of purchasing materials. However, to ensure reliable tension of the strings, it is necessary to firmly install them with obligatory concreting, and on the corner and gate posts it is necessary to install jibs for support. Thanks to simple device These are the most common fences for country house from mesh netting.

In the design along the veins, the role of strings is played by a metal rod, a round or profile pipe of small cross-section. Installing such a fence will be stronger and more stable, since all the posts are connected into a single steel structure. Therefore, in the case of dense soils, installing pillars will require less concrete and no need for jibs. As a result, the costs of constructing such a fence are approximately the same, compared to a construction using strings, and it is better to build it due to the fact that tension is not required. Construction of a fence using strings will require more materials. Slegs are load-bearing horizontal lintels made of boards, steel angles, profile or round pipes and other materials. Depending on the height of the fence, 2, 3, and sometimes 4 slings are secured. Such designs are most often used when installing fences made of reinforced wire or with a high fence height.

An important quality of continuous slab fencing is the ability to install them on slopes and uneven terrain. In case of distortions mechanical properties the chain-links are significantly reduced, but strong layers reliably hold all the elements, giving the structure strength and stability.

Prefabricated sectional fence consists of separate sections secured to clamps or by welding between posts. Each section is a metal frame made from an angle, inside which a chain-link mesh intended for the fence is stretched. Such fences are expensive due to large quantity material used, but differ in beautiful appearance. Moreover, this best design for meshes with a polymer protective coating.

Making a fence from a chain-link mesh with your own hands

Installing a chain-link fence with your own hands

Installation of pillars

Before you make a chain-link fence, you need to install support posts. They can be made of steel or asbestos-cement pipes, as well as wood. Industrial enterprises I make ready-made metal posts, painted, with welded hooks for hanging nets or with clamping mounting feet for sectional ones.

Do-it-yourself chain-link fence on posts , it looks beautiful if the pillars comply with generally accepted standards, which are presented below.

· steel round pipes with a diameter of 60-80 mm, with a wall thickness of 2.5-3.0 mm;

· steel profile pipes 40×40 – 60×60 mm, with a wall thickness of 3.0 mm;

· asbestos cement pipes diameter 100-120 mm;

· pine pillars with a diameter of 100 mm;

· wood hardwood with a diameter of 80 mm.

The pillars should be buried at least 80 cm in the ground with mandatory butting or concreting.

Attention! It is not recommended to install prefabricated sectional fences on wooden and asbestos-cement posts, since they do not withstand lateral loads well.

We concrete the pillar, leveling it

Fixing wooden poles in the ground is possible by butting. To do this, a layer of crushed stone with sand 20-25 cm thick is poured onto the bottom of the dug hole, a pillar is installed vertically, a layer of rubble is laid 15-20 cm thick, and thin layer sand and rubble again until the top of the pit is reached. Before installing wooden fence posts with your own hands, their underground part must be treated twice bitumen mastic and wrap it in roofing felt. The upper part is treated with an oil-based water-repellent and then painted.

All types of pillars can be reinforced with concreting. To do this, a layer of crushed stone is poured under each pillar, and then installed pole and fill the hole with concrete. When installing asbestos-cement supports bottom part reinforced with table wire.

Instructions for hanging and tensioning the mesh along the strings

After installing the pillars, begin tensioning the mesh. First of all, the outermost corner post is supported by jibs. It is also recommended to strengthen the intermediate posts if the length of the canvas exceeds 10 meters. The stability of gate posts and gates does not need to be reinforced if they have a connected crossbar or arched structure.

Steel wire with a diameter of 4-5 mm is used as a tension string. To achieve good elasticity of the fence, it is recommended to tension 3 or 4 strings. The wire is fastened after stretching the mesh, using self-tapping screws with hooks or to hooks welded to the post. Therefore, all strings must be passed through the layers horizontally even before the chain-link is tensioned.

In many instructions on how to build a chain-link fence, it is recommended to tension the mesh using hoists. However, you can completely get by with the force of a high lever, but this will require the work of three people. Two will stretch the mesh, and the third will secure it. Take a metal rod with a diameter of 10-12 mm and a length slightly less than a pole. Pass it through the outer layers of the mesh and, together with it, attach it vertically to the outermost post. Tie a metal rod to the pole in 4-5 places or secure it by welding. Do not weld the mesh, only the rod. Lift the mesh near the next post, tighten it and repeat the operation, securing it with a metal rod. On wooden pillars It is allowed to secure the chain-link using driving hooks.

How to stretch a chain-link fence along the veins

Wire mesh installation is similar to string installation, but instead of wire to support the mesh thicker metal rods or thinner ones are used steel pipes. The veins are threaded into the mesh before it is installed, and after tensioning the webs, they are attached to the posts with clamps, hooks or welding.

A fence with veins is more rigid and it is not necessary to install jibs to secure the posts. At long length the canvas may need one-sided support for corner supports.

It should be taken into account that in in this case the top of the fence becomes more rigid and the upper edge of the mesh becomes dangerous. To avoid this, the upper vein must be passed along the mesh in 5-6 horizontal rows of cells or covered with a polyethylene tube cut lengthwise over the sharp edges. At the same time, such protection will additionally serve as a decoration for the fence.

How to install a chain-link fence on slangs

For such a fence, boards or a metal corner are used as slings. Fastening to poles can be done using welded metal paws, self-tapping screws or double-sided clamps. Very important point is to secure the mesh to the slugs. The mesh is easily attached to wooden crossbars with bent nails or special U-shaped staples; to a steel corner it can be tied and secured with metal rods.

Prefabricated sectional fences

Sections of such structures are assembled on the ground from profile pipe or corner. The mesh is secured using metal rods laid on the back side of the fence or by spot-tacking the mesh to the frame. To make a sectional fence, welding will be required.

Estimate for chain link fencing

The estimate for a chain-link fence, compiled by specialists from any company, includes the cost of the material and the area of ​​the fence, everything is simple - nothing else. The characteristics of the chain-link today have no complaints from consumers:

The cost of the material is budget;

Service life of at least 50 years (and this, you see, is not little);

Easy delivery and installation of fencing;

The chain-link ensures free air circulation;

And also free access sun rays to plants planted on the territory.

Finally

If you have the materials and two assistants, any type of chain-link fence can be made on your own without turning to specialists. It is imperative to remember the need to protect all metal parts and materials from corrosion, and wood from rotting.

You might want to think about how to decorate a built chain-link fence. To do this, it is sometimes covered with colored plaster or camouflage mesh, and polymer tapes are also woven into the cells. Besides good view fencing depends on the correct tension between the posts. If the fence is sagging, do not put off fixing it until later.

Wire mesh is an ideal material for lightweight fencing. It does not obscure the light, and therefore is widely used for fencing beds, gardens, and marking boundaries neighboring plots. To install a chain-link fence with your own hands, you don’t need to be experienced craftsman, you just need to familiarize yourself with and select the right materials.

Fence materials

The appearance, durability and cost of a chain-link fence directly depend on the quality of the mesh. Metal grid Available in three versions:

• non-galvanized;
• galvanized;
• plasticized.

The cheapest of all. It is not suitable for permanent fencing because it begins to rust after the first rain. Typically, untreated black mesh lasts no more than 3-4 years. To extend its service life, non-galvanized chain-link should be coated with either paint or special compounds which, after application, form a water-repellent coating on the mesh. This treatment must be repeated periodically, which ultimately costs more than purchasing galvanized mesh.

Not afraid of moisture protective treatment does not require. Its appearance is much more attractive; such a mesh looks especially good in sectional fences. The cost of galvanized mesh is higher than regular black mesh, but since it lasts longer and does not need to be painted every 2-3 years, this option is more practical.

Plasticized mesh has a special polymer coating, corrosion resistant. The coating is not only durable, but also comes in a variety of colors, so you can choose a mesh to match the main fence or roof of the house. The most popular are blue and green chain-link fences; it is less common to see a white, red or yellow mesh fence.

Special attention should be paid to the supporting posts of the fence. The chain-link mesh can be attached to metal pipes, steel profile, concrete pillars and even wooden posts.

The most convenient and practical supports are metal pipes square section. Manufacturers offer pipes with already welded hooks, especially for installing mesh fences. To reduce the cost of installing the fence, they also use used pipes, and weld the hooks themselves. In addition, fastening with hooks is not the only option; you can fix the mesh using steel wire.

How to calculate the amount of materials

The most popular for making fences is a chain-link mesh with a width of 1.5 m and cell sizes of 40-50 mm. A standard roll of mesh is 10 m long. To prevent the mesh from sagging, support posts must be installed in increments of 2-2.5 m. This means that no more than 5 posts will be required per roll. The above-ground part of the supports should be 10 cm greater than the width of the mesh, and the posts should be dug into the ground at 1/3 of their height.

So, if you need to install a chain-link fence 30 m long and 1.5 m high, the work will require 3 rolls of mesh and 16 posts 2.3-2.5 m long. Each post should have 3 hooks attached - at the top, bottom and in the middle . By multiplying the number of supports by 3, you will find out how many hooks you will need. If the fence is sectional, additionally calculate the number of metal corners for the frame. The height of each section is equal to the width of the mesh, and the length of the run is 2-2.5 m. The most convenient corner for a frame is 40x40 mm, 5 mm thick.

Prices for mesh netting

Rabitz

Manufacturing of tension fence

Chain-link tension fencing is faster to complete than sectional fencing and is less expensive. The installation process includes marking, preparing holes for posts, installing posts and fence fabric.

To work you will need:

Step 1. Marking the area

Take wooden pegs and long twine and start marking. First you need to determine the location of the outer pillars. In these places, pegs are driven in and a string is pulled between them at a height of 10 cm above the ground. If the fence line has breaks, a beacon is also placed on each of them and a rope is secured. Further along the marking line, you need to drive in pegs where the intermediate supports will stand. The distance between the pegs must be the same and correspond to the width of the run.

Step 2. Preparing holes for pillars

In places marked with pegs, use garden borer make holes with a depth of 80 to 120 cm. The denser the soil, the shallower the depth. The diameter of the holes should be slightly larger than the diameter of the posts. A sand cushion 10 cm thick is placed at the bottom of each pit.

Step 3. Installation of load-bearing pillars

Prepare the pipes: clean their surface from oil stains and rust, grind it, weld the hooks. The welding areas are cleaned, scale is removed, and then the pipes are primed and painted. After this, the posts are lowered into the holes, leveled, and reinforced with spacers. If all the supports have the same height and are located strictly along the same line, you can fill. During the pouring process, the solution is pierced several times with a steel rod to remove air bubbles from the concrete.

Step 4. Attaching the chain-link mesh

There is no need to unwind the roll to secure the mesh to the poles. It is lifted vertically, placed against the first support and hooked. If there are no hooks, the mesh is screwed with steel wire in three or four places. It is recommended to leave 10-15 cm between the surface of the ground and the lower edge of the mesh. You can attach it close to the soil, but then the cells will quickly become entangled in grass, and debris, branches, and fallen leaves will accumulate under the fence.

Having secured the chain-link to the first post, move on to the second. The roll is unwound 2-2.5 m, placed against a support and the mesh is pulled. To ensure uniform tension, a 1.5 m long steel rod is threaded into the cells along the height of the roll. This process is best performed with an assistant: one person pulls the mesh, the other screws it with wire or hooks it.

Even tight tensioned chain link sags over time, especially in the upper part. Reinforcing wire or long steel rods threaded into cells along the perimeter of the fence at a distance of 5-7 cm from the top and welded to the posts will help to avoid this. Sometimes the wire is threaded both from above and along the bottom edge, departing 20 cm from the ground. Finally, the ends of the wire and hooks are bent inward, and plugs are put on all support posts.

Making a sectional fence

Marking and installation support posts for sectional fences is produced using the technology described above. The only difference is that the posts should not have hooks, but rather welded metal plates. These plates have dimensions of 15x5 cm and a thickness of 5 mm; Weld them on top and bottom to the racks, departing 20 cm from the edges.

To assemble the sections you will need:

• Rabitz;
• steel corners 40x40 mm;
• Bulgarian;
• roulette;
• reinforcement bars.

Step 1. Assembling the frame

Measure the distance between the supporting posts and subtract 15-20 cm from it - this will be the width of the frame from the corners. The height of the section is equal to the width of the mesh or the height of the post minus 20 cm. The steel corners are cut to the size of the section and into a rectangle. Then the scale is removed, the inner and outer surfaces of the frame are ground.

Step 2: Preparing the mesh

The roll of chain-link is laid on the ground, unrolled 2-2.5 m and carefully cut to width with a grinder. Now reinforcing bars are threaded into the outer rows of cells on each side. There is no need to connect the rods together.

Step 3. Section installation

The mesh is laid on the frame and the upper reinforcement is welded to inside corner. Next, pull the mesh well down and weld the bottom rod, after which the sides are secured. The finished section is lifted vertically to the posts and welded to metal plates. You can also secure the section with bolts by drilling a hole required diameter in the protruding part of the plate.

When installing the next section, you must ensure that the edges of adjacent frames are on the same line. Even a difference of 1-2 cm will be noticeable and will give the fence a sloppy appearance. Finally, the sections are primed and painted. This way you can make a fence of any size without much hassle.

Video - DIY chain-link fence