Which is the best chainsaw to buy for your dacha? How to choose a chainsaw: tips on which chainsaw is best to choose for your home. Additional criteria for choosing a chainsaw

Which is the best chainsaw to buy for your dacha?  How to choose a chainsaw: tips on which chainsaw is best to choose for your home.  Additional criteria for choosing a chainsaw
Which is the best chainsaw to buy for your dacha? How to choose a chainsaw: tips on which chainsaw is best to choose for your home. Additional criteria for choosing a chainsaw

Any owner country house You definitely have to deal with the need to carry out wood cutting operations. This is especially in demand when carrying out construction or repair work, which are usually always found in private households. If the house has stoves, then fuel supplies are constantly required. Plus, care house plot: regular pruning of trees or complete cutting down of old, unnecessary trees, trimming of bushes and hedges, etc. Even organizing leisure time often requires turning to a saw - when it is necessary to prepare fuel for a barbecue or summer grill.

Using the “old-fashioned” approach using conventional and two-handed saws, an ax, and pruning shears is quite possible, but it takes a lot of time, which is usually not enough, and requires considerable physical effort. It’s good that in our time it is possible to purchase modern mechanized tools that greatly simplify the performance of labor-intensive operations. Thus, chainsaws are in great demand due to the ease of working with them and complete autonomy - independence from the presence of a power source. But in order for the tool to truly meet the expectations of its owner, you should definitely understand how to choose the right chainsaw and what to look for Special attention at the time of buying.

Experienced users who have been using chainsaws in their daily work for a long time probably know the basic selection criteria. But for those who are just about to purchase this useful “assistant” for the first time, it’s worth starting with at least a little understanding of the structure of the chainsaw - so that it becomes clear what it will be about we're talking about when assessing the characteristics of a tool.

How does a chainsaw work?

The range of chain saws is very wide, as they are used in a variety of fields.

  • This is an indispensable tool both in companies involved in industrial timber harvesting and in forestry enterprises carrying out regular work for cleaning areas of dead wood or unnecessary growth.

  • Chainsaws are used in the preparation of wooden parts of erected structures, cutting windows and doorways in log houses or beams, selecting the necessary grooves or tenons and for many other operations.

  • The variety of household and economic uses of a chainsaw has already been mentioned above - it is an indispensable assistant for a good homeowner.
  • Moreover, in the skillful hands of a master, a chainsaw becomes a tool for creating works of art– logs or logs are turned into unique garden wooden sculptures.

But, despite such a wide range of uses, all chain saws have approximately the same design and operate on the same principle.

First, let's look at the outside of the chainsaw:


The entire main structure of the saw is covered with plastic or metal body(item 1). Inside there is a power unit (engine) and components and mechanisms that ensure its startup and operation. At the top of the housing there is a removable cover (item 2), which, when removed, provides access to the power and ignition systems.

Any saw has two working handles. The front one is in the form of an arc encircling the top of the body (pos. 3), and the rear one (pos. 4), with control elements located on it.

In the front part of the chainsaw there is a bar (pos. 5), with a saw chain stretched on it (pos. 6).

To start the power unit, a manual starter is used, the handle of which is located on the left side of the housing (item 7). To pre-pump fuel into the carburetor, most models have a special button hand pump(pos. 8). Most often it is indicated by the “Primer” indicator.

Directly near the rear handle, so that you can easily reach it with your finger, there is a toggle switch for turning the engine ignition system on and off (item 9).

On the left side of the body there are always two filler necks - for refueling the saw (pos. 10) and for filling the tank for the chain and bar lubrication system (pos. 11). The necks are closed with sealed plugs. The location of the necks may differ from the example shown in the figure, but there are always inscriptions or pictograms that clearly indicate the purpose of the filling container.

Prices and model line of CALIBR chainsaws

chainsaw caliber

The engine speed is controlled by the throttle key (item 12), located on the rear handle of the saw. On top of the handle there is always one more key - a locking key (position 13), without pressing which it is impossible to transfer the control action to the throttle. This is one of the boundaries of ensuring safety at work.

A special safety shield (pos. 14) is always placed in front of the front handle, which is kinematically connected to the emergency chain brake.


On the opposite side of the chainsaw there is a metal or plastic casing (item 15) that covers the rotation transmission unit from the engine to the saw chain drive sprocket. There is also a mechanism for adjusting the chain tension, its lubrication, as well as two fastening nuts (item 16) that fix the installed position of the tire.

The internal combustion engine used in chainsaws is a single-cylinder, two-stroke. Its dimensions, respectively - the diameter of the cylinder and its volume, directly depend on the power and determine the purpose of the tool.


Two-stroke engines do not require a dedicated lubrication system. For normal operation of the mechanisms, it is sufficient to use a correctly selected gasoline-oil mixture as fuel. The gasoline component burns in the cylinder, and the oil component provides lubrication of friction units.

The engine cooling system is air. For greater heat transfer efficiency, the outer cylinder body is finned (item 1), and the engine flywheel has a unique turbine configuration with blades (item 5), which provide forced, powerful air flow.

Ignition working fuel mixture in the cylinder is carried out by a spark plug (item 2). The fuel supply from the carburetor to the cylinder is through a special connecting pipe (item 3). There must be a muffler (item 4), which reduces the noise level of the unit and directs the exhaust to the side.

There is no gearbox with a change in the number of revolutions from the engine to the drive sprocket - the rotation speed is regulated only by the throttle valve. But there is a clutch system (item 5) - torque is transmitted only when a certain speed level is reached.


This mechanism works by centrifugal principle. Clutch pads (their number can vary different models differ) are pulled to the center by a spring (item 2). The tie force is designed so that when idling, the pads do not contact the inner surface of the drum (item 3), which is rigidly connected to the chain drive sprocket (item 4), and rotation of the engine shaft (item 1) is not further transmitted.


As the number of revolutions increases, the massive pads, overcoming the resistance of the springs under the action of centrifugal force, are pressed against the inner surface of the drum, and the torque is transmitted to the saw chain.

The bar with the chain has a slot for insertion into the saw pins (item 6) and centering holes for a stopper (pin), the position of which can be changed with a special screw (item 5) - this is how the chain tension is adjusted.

Many models of chainsaws have a toothed chain catcher (pos. 7) located in the same area. In the event of a chain break or fall off, he must not allow injury to the worker’s hands.

Here via screw pump The oil supply channel from the tank for lubrication of the chain and tire gears has also been removed. Many models are equipped with an adjusting screw with which you can change the flow rate.

The outer surface of the drum (item 3) also plays another function - it is part of the emergency chain braking mechanism.


When assembling the unit, the drum is surrounded by a spring-loaded ring made of steel strip (item 1). When the saw is not in working position, this belt is pressed against the drum by a spring. Before starting to use the tool, the technician presses the shield (item 2) back. In this position, the belt is loosened and the drum can rotate freely.

Why is this being done? A chainsaw is a high-risk tool, and the chain moving along the bar can cause serious injury. Particularly dangerous is the phenomenon of kickback - when the tire is thrown up or to the side. When the saw is in operation, the protective shield in the rear position is very close to the worker’s hand holding the tool by the front handle. If the saw is suddenly thrown up or to the side, the back of the hand will involuntarily move the guard to the front position, the spring-loaded belt will compress the drum, and its rotation will be stopped within 0.5 - 1 second, which means the movement of the chain will be interrupted. The engine remains running.

The diagram under No. 3 shows a screw that changes the position of the pin when adjusting the chain tension.

True, the operation of such a brake requires special care from the technician. If you increase engine speed without moving the flap to the rear working position, then it is easy to overheat the mechanism and even cause melting polymer parts design with failure of the entire mechanism. And working without a functioning chain brake is strictly prohibited.

To start the engine - transfer it starting torque, which will ensure the supply of a combustible mixture from the carburetor to the cylinder and create an impulse for sparking at the spark plug, a manual starter is used.


The design of the starter is simple. This is a drum with a cable (cord) wound around it, which ends in a handle located outside. The drum itself is located on a frame that has a return spring - it ensures that the cable rewinds and the starter returns to its original position. The starter is located on the left of most models, coaxially with the engine crankshaft.

When the cord is sharply pulled, the drum is given a slight translational movement forward, so that its splines hit the mating protrusions of the engine flywheel, and a rotational movement is transmitted to the flywheel and then to the crankshaft.

Access for servicing the carburetor and spark plug is achieved by opening the top cover of the chainsaw.


Filter elements are also located here to clean the air entering the carburetor. They require regular monitoring and cleaning - clogged filters often cause unstable engine operation or even the impossibility of starting it.

Many models have another external control element - adjusting the carburetor air damper (among motorists the name “choke” usually appears). Such adjustment is sometimes necessary to facilitate cold starting of the engine before it warms up, especially in low winter temperatures.


Air damper control lever (“choke”)

There is a filter in the fuel tank that cleans the mixture from suspended matter. There is no fuel pump as such, except for the “primer” for preliminary manual pumping. Equalizing the pressure in the tank and outside (so that no vacuum is created during fuel production) is ensured by a special breather on the tank lid. Its condition also requires regular “keeping an eye”, since with a clogged breather the chainsaw engine will constantly stall.

The layout of specific models of chainsaws, especially - different manufacturers, may have certain differences. However, the basic scheme remains approximately the same for everyone.

For greater clarity of information about the design of a chainsaw, here is a demonstration video:

Video: structure and principle of operation of a chainsaw

What is assessed when choosing a chainsaw?

What tool evaluation criteria should you pay special attention to when purchasing a chainsaw?

Planned purpose of the tool

To begin with, you should realistically imagine how much work will be done with a chainsaw, and with what regularity. The choice of the required model primarily depends on this.

  • If there is a need to perform small work with low frequency, for example, one-time preparation of firewood for a fireplace or barbecue, pruning trees, performing simple processing operations wooden blanks, then you can limit yourself to purchasing inexpensive model, belonging to the class of household chainsaws.

The smallest and lightest - chainsaws household class(garden)

These tools are usually designed for very short continuous work - within 20 ÷ 30 minutes, and in total no more than 1.5 ÷ 2 hours a day. But even in this mode, it is not recommended to exceed the threshold of 20 hours of its use within a month. The engine life of the unit is small, usually within 400 hours of operation, and in order for the chainsaw to remain a “helper” for as long as possible, it requires appropriate, very rational use.

The power of the power unit of a household chainsaw usually does not exceed 1.5 kW, and the cylinder volume is about 40 cm³. Household saws, as a rule, have a very effective muffler, which reduces the noise effect from their operation to the minimum possible.

In front of everyone the mentioned shortcomings These chainsaws also have undeniable advantages. This is compactness and light weight. Such qualities allow almost everyone to use a household-grade tool, regardless of the person’s level of physical fitness.

  • The second class of chainsaws are semi-professional, or, as they are often called, “farm saws.”

An example of a semi-professional (“farmer”) chainsaw

This is already a fairly serious instrument that can withstand several hours of continuous use (about 4 hours a day). The power of the power unit reaches 2 ÷ 2.5 kW, the cylinder volume is up to 60 cm³.

Such a chainsaw is quite suitable for any household needs, including for regular preparation of firewood, felling Not big trees and sawing them into logs to perform various construction operations. Most often, it is these saws that carpenters use when constructing log or. Such saws are also used in logging, but only for clearing trunks of twigs and branches.

Prices and model line of ECHO chainsaws

chainsaw echo

The service life of such a chainsaw is usually about 1000 hours. For the “arsenal” of the owner of a country house who permanently resides in it, this is apparently the best option.

Of course, both the dimensions and weight of a chainsaw are already significantly higher than those of household-grade tools, and working with it will require a certain level of preparedness.

  • Finally, professional grade chainsaws. Their very name speaks for itself - they are designed for continuous operation during a work shift - up to eight or even more hours, under heavy loads.

Purchasing a professional grade saw for household looks completely unnecessary - there are simply no loads for it that are adequate to its capabilities

These chainsaws always have a powerful power unit (3 kW) and higher, with a cylinder volume of 60 to 90 cm³), a long tire that allows you to work with thick trunks, an “aggressive” shape and sharpening of the chain teeth, capable of sawing dense wood even at high speeds. frost. The intended motor life is measured in thousands of hours.

A similar tool is used, as a rule, in logging sites. Using it for economic needs is both unprofitable and inconvenient. Chainsaws of this class are always massive and large, so they will not be used in construction either. good helpers. The operation of a saw is always accompanied by a fairly high noise level: in forest conditions this is not important, but for home use it is hardly suitable. In addition, working with professional tool requires very high physical fitness and appropriate qualifications of operators.

All other parameters for choosing a tool directly or indirectly depend on the chainsaw’s belonging to a particular class.

Types and parameters of tires and saw chains

Chainsaws are always equipped with standard tires. Their size (length) corresponds to the capabilities of the engine, and exceeding it is extremely dangerous - you can easily “kill” a drive that is not designed for excessively large loads.


The range of tire lengths is usually from 10 inches for household tools to 18 inches for farm tools (for professional ones, it can be much longer). For each specific model, the manufacturer indicates permissible dimensions. The use of shorter tires is, in principle, possible, although not very encouraged. Installing longer ones that go beyond the upper limit of the range is strictly prohibited.

Some models of exactly the same power and design may be sold with tires of different lengths. Here you can focus on the nature of the intended work - for pruning trees and shrubs it is better to have a shorter tire, as it will be more convenient to work with, and for sawing firewood - a longer one, taking into account the diameter of the logs.

Tires may also differ in design.

  • Household and farm chainsaws usually have flat bars with low-profile chains - they are more convenient to use for unloaded cuts and are least susceptible to kickback. True, all this is due to reduced productivity.
  • For working at heights, it will be more convenient to use a lightweight tire. These are two metal plates with polyamide gasket in the middle.
  • The tires of professional chainsaws usually provide the ability to replace the head with the end sprocket, since this unit wears out the fastest with constant use of the tool. For commercial use such a tire is not needed.

The main parameters of the tire are shown in the figure:


1 – the dimensions and position of the holes for the fasteners and the guide adjusting cotter pin must correspond to the model of the chainsaw.

2 – the width of the guide groove, which ensures wedding movement, but at the same time, reliable retention of the chain on the bar. The size must correspond to the thickness of the chain tooth shank.

3 – the pitch of the end sprocket teeth must correspond to the same parameters of the drive sprocket and chain parameters.

4 – tire length (L), which was already mentioned above.

As a rule, the main parameters of the tire are not only indicated by the manufacturer in the passport, but also printed on the product itself:


The saw chain consists of the following elements:

1 and 2 – cutting chain links, alternately left and right, having a certain sharpening angle of the edges. Each of the cutting links has a protrusion - a cut depth limiter (item 3)

4 – driving links through which rotation from the sprocket is transmitted, and whose shanks hold the chain on the bar from lateral displacement.

5 – connecting links.

6 – rivets that assemble all the links into a single structure.

The main parameters of the circuit are shown in the diagram:


a is the value that determines the chain pitch, the distance between the first and third rivet, divided in half.

This value is standardized. In saws of small and medium power, that is, those belonging to the household and “farm” class, chains with a pitch of 0.325 and 3/8 inches are used (this corresponds in metric terms to 8.255 and 9.525 millimeters). Such a strange gradation at first glance, using decimals and simple fractions, was chosen only to prevent confusion: 3/8 of an inch is equal to 0.375, which can easily be confused with 0.325, and this way random discrepancies are excluded.

Chains with a pitch of 0.325 have the lowest vibration levels during operation, but their performance is also low. " Golden mean" - this is 3/8 inch, these are the chains that are found on most middle-class models. Professional chainsaws are equipped with chains with a pitch of 0.404, and sometimes even ¾ inches with a high tooth profile, often with special carbide tips.

The second parameter of the chain is the thickness of the drive link shank (indicated “b” in the diagram) - this value has already been discussed above.

And finally, the length of the chain, if this element of the saw set is purchased separately, must correspond to the size of the existing bar.

The shape of the cutting sections and their sharpening may vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. Thus, there are two main types of tooth shapes – chisel and chipper. However, there are many intermediate options.


However, such subtle knowledge is only interesting experienced craftsmen- on household level The user will not feel much difference.

One more important note about the saw set. Common occurrence that chains and tires from one manufacturer are designed exclusively for chainsaws of the same brand. There are exceptions - but they are isolated and do not make a difference. Thus, when choosing a saw, you should immediately assess the availability of service or the availability in the region of the possibility of purchasing spare parts for this model.

Evaluating the ease of working with a chainsaw

It will be completely pointless to study the technical and operational characteristics of a chainsaw if you do not “touch” it with your hands. This tool belongs to the high-risk group, so it is extremely important that the chainsaw fits perfectly into the master’s hand. And the owner himself must easily, without using excessive effort, direct the movement of the working saw bar.

To do this, when choosing, the ergonomics of a particular model must be assessed.

  • The chainsaw must be balanced - when fully assembled, its center of gravity must be positioned in such a way that when lifting the tool by the front handle, it maintains balance. This is very important - you won’t have to spend additional effort to hold the tool in a horizontal position, which means that fatigue from work will not set in so quickly.
  • The weight of the chainsaw is also assessed - people have different physical capabilities, and what seems easy to one may become an unbearable burden to another.

  • Be sure to evaluate the location of the safety shield in front of the front handle. It happens that in some household models the distance between the working position of the shield and the handle is very small. It will not be easy for a person with a strongly developed hand, and even wearing a work mitten, to hold the tool when cutting - any movement can cause an emergency operation of the brake. Naturally, there will be no effective work in such conditions - it will turn into complete torture, and may even end in overheating of the brake drum. This means you will have to choose a larger model.
  • The comfort of the hand position on the rear control handle is assessed. Pressing the accelerator key after the safety key has been activated should be comfortable for your fingers, without jamming. The ignition circuit interrupt switch must be located within reach of instantaneous engine shutdown if such a need arises.

  • Even the smallest saw puts a considerable vibration load on the user’s hands during operation - this causes rapid fatigue, and with frequent use of the tool it can even lead to chronic joint diseases. Therefore, manufacturers try to minimize vibration impacts by using special elastic or spring dampers between the body and power unit and, in particular, between the body and the front handle of the chainsaw. This point is also worth paying attention to.
  • When choosing a chainsaw, you should definitely ask the seller to refuel and start it. It is necessary to make sure that the engine starts easily, without problems, and idles smoothly, without failures. You should try the “throttle response” of the engine, that is, its adequate response to pressing the throttle control key. At the same time, it is possible to verify regular work clutch assembly (rotation should not be transmitted to the chain at idle), and emergency brake (pressing the flap forward should stop the chain almost instantly).

When buying a saw, be sure to ask for it to be refueled and started - to check the correct operation of all components
  • When a chainsaw is running, you can evaluate the degree of its noise, as well as the direction of exhaust combustion products - this will subsequently be important for choosing a workplace and the position of the tool, taking into account the direction of the wind or the location of doors (gates, windows, ventilation hoods) in the workshop.

Which brand should you choose?

And finally important criterion the choice becomes the manufacturer's warranty, the opportunity service, purchasing replacement headset elements and spare parts.

The undisputed leaders in the production of chainsaws are the companies STIHL and HUSQVARNA. The STIHL instrument is more preferable from the point of view that in our area it is much easier to purchase a headset for it, Consumables and spare parts. Products from MAKITA, JONSERED, OLEO MAC, HITACHI, ZENOAH, PARTNER, ECHO and a number of others enjoy unconditional authority. Among Russian buyers, chainsaws of the Taiga, Ural, Interskol, Zubr, and Energomash brands are quite popular.

Prices for popular chainsaws

Of course, you should only purchase a chainsaw in a specialized store, where the originality of the product will be guaranteed and all the manufacturer’s obligations will be confirmed. Unfortunately, we have to admit that in this area there is a huge number of fakes, outwardly practically indistinguishable from real models and identifying themselves only with individual “touches”. But in operation they have nothing in common with the original, neither in their effectiveness, nor in the built-in resource, nor in ensuring proper safety.

Video - How to choose the right chainsaw

And finally - a few popular models from leading chainsaw manufacturers:

ModelIllustrationShort descriptionPower, weightaverage price
HUSQVARNA 236 A small, lightweight, but powerful household-grade saw.
14" bar with 3/8" chain pitch and 1.3 mm groove width.
Tank volume – 0.3 l.
Additional centrifugal air cleaning system for carburetor
1400 W
4.6 kg
11500 rub.
Stihl MS 180 14 One of the most popular models for personal use.
The length of the bar is 14 inches, the chain pitch is 3/8, the groove width is 1.3 mm.
Automatic chain lubrication system.
Tank volume – 0.25 l.
1500 W
3.9 kg
13000 rub.
MAKITA EA3502S40B Chainsaw for household needs.
The length of the bar is 16 inches, the pitch and thickness of the chain is 3/8 - 1.3 mm.
Fuel tank volume – 0.4 l
1700 W
4.4 kg
16700 rub.
ECHO CS-510-15 A powerful saw of a semi-professional, “farmer” class, Japanese assembled.
The length of the bar is 15 inches, the chain is 0.325 pitch and 1.5 mm wide.
Increased security system, economical consumption of fuel and oil due to light design features.
Improved anti-vibration protection.
2600 W
4.9 kg
28100 rub.
BISON PBC-450 40P Reliable and relatively inexpensive chainsaw domestic production, semi-professional class.
16" tire, chain parameters - 0.325 - 1.5 mm.
Tank volume – 0.55 l.
Electronic ignition system, air pre-purification system, saw set of our own design, designed for durability without sharpening.
1800 W
6.4 kg
12700 rub.
Hyundai X560 A semi-professional class chainsaw, with an extended bar, which allows you to fell fairly thick trees and use it for construction work with log cabins.
Bar length - 20', chain 0.325 - 1.5 mm.
Engine decompressor system, making it easier to start the unit.
Relatively low price against the backdrop of high performance characteristics
3000 W
5.2 kg
16500 rub.
Video - Guide to choosing a chainsaw

Chainsaw is the right tool for summer residents and gardeners. In a private home, such a tool would also come in handy. For example, for preparing firewood for barbecues, pruning trees and building gazebos, etc.

Previously, only hand saws and hacksaws were used, but thanks to technical progress, today it is possible to purchase an excellent chainsaw.

Amateur chainsaws

The most common class of chainsaws is amateur.

Semi-professional chainsaws

If you are not tasked with cutting thick logs and using the tool every day, then a power of up to 2 kW will be enough for you. A chainsaw for the home with a power of up to 2.5 kW is also perfect for building a wooden log house.

It is important to know that the more power a chainsaw has, the heavier it is. And it will not be easy to manage it.

Below we will look at some of the nuances of choosing chainsaws depending on their technical characteristics.

How to choose a tire for a chainsaw?

Exists three main types of saw bars:

  • Flat narrow. They are installed on amateur chainsaws. A narrow bar is usually paired with a low profile chain and has no kickback. This is necessary to reduce injuries when working with this chainsaw.
  • Lightweight tires. Made of steel, they consist of two special plates with polyamide packed between them. This design significantly reduces the overall weight of the chainsaw. And working with such a tool becomes much easier.
  • Tire with replaceable heads. Installed on professional chainsaws with high power, which work continuously for ten hours a day.

In addition to the type of tires, you should also pay attention to their length.


With long tires it is convenient to saw thick wood, as the cut is deeper. But if such a tire comes with a mechanism low power, then its strength is not enough for quick sawing. You will start sawing more slowly, and the chainsaw motor will wear out instantly.

All instructions for chainsaws indicate the recommended bar length. This figure must not be exceeded. You can reduce the size.

And if you have a choice between models of the same power, then for a small volume of wood it is better to choose a chainsaw with a smaller tire, since its sawing speed will be much higher.

Chainsaw chain

The cutting speed is also determined by the chain pitch. All chainsaws have three main chain steps. Therefore, it’s up to you to decide which chain to choose for your chainsaw.

Chain pitch 0.325 dm have amateur low-profile chains. This standard size for quick cutting. Such a chain will not withstand prolonged loads and will instantly become dull.

Have high power chain pitch up to 0.404 dm. They work for a long time and are capable of sawing large volumes of wood. But even such chainsaws will not cope with frozen and dirty wood. For these purposes, special chains with carbide tips are produced.

When choosing a chainsaw for your dacha, you automatically become a consumer of only this brand, since the components of the saw set various manufacturers will not fit each other.

Thus, all components of the unit must be produced by one factory, and if they break down, you will need to look for a part of the same brand.

Kickback protection


Backfire
- this is the rebound of the saw when working towards a person. Kickback occurs when the end of the tire hits a tree. When choosing and purchasing a saw, be sure to check whether the selected model has protection against this phenomenon.

Protection in chainsaws against kickback is two types:

  • using a special brake;
  • using an additional shield.

Brake It is much more common in chainsaws. It looks like a lever - a shield. When the tool is operating, the lever is set to the closest position to the hand, and with a reverse blow, the hand will automatically press the lever, and it will be moved to the position of stopping the movement of the chain.

Additional shield prevents the operator's hands from coming into contact with the dangerous mechanism when operating the saw. It is installed at the end of the saw set. This protection is not provided in Swedish chainsaws.

Anti-vibration protection


When choosing and purchasing a chainsaw for your home, ask the seller to check it and hold it in your hands.

Lightweight amateur saws should not vibrate much. To reduce vibration, rubber gaskets are installed in such chainsaws. They are located between the handles and the saw body.

In professional powerful saws, the engine and fuel tank are spaced away from each other to evenly distribute the total mass over the entire structure. Chainsaws without special anti-vibration protection are suitable for those who work for a limited time.

The longer you work, the more vibration will affect your hands, and this will lead to inevitable joint disease.

Chainsaws for women


Some gardening work performed by women. For female hands Low-power chainsaws are suitable, as they are light in weight and have little vibration. More powerful models are not suitable for women.

If there are no problems with it on your site, then it’s better to buy an electric saw. It is easy to use and its maintenance is much simpler. You don't have to change the oil or add gasoline. Any woman can handle this unit without any problems.

Chainsaws for home and garden - we choose with our experts. Let's take it apart!

On a country plot, be it a house for year-round residence or a cottage with periodic visits, a chainsaw is simply necessary. This is an excellent assistant when working in the garden, for preparing firewood for a bathhouse, for any construction work with wooden materials. The choice of tool must be approached responsibly, because the unit is purchased for more than one year.


Photo: http://domspline.com

When selecting a gas-powered tool, you need to take into account not only its technical parameters, but also the type of intended main work, operating time without stopping, and even the user’s build. Today there are a lot of firms and companies producing such in-demand equipment. How not to get confused in the choice?

The choice of a saw for a summer house from a huge variety of offers for the unfortunate user ends with the fact that, waving his hand towards the country of origin, he purchases a unit from the middle price category, no longer reading the descriptions of the characteristics. Here we will give you a complete understanding of, based on the practicality of using the unit and its economic indicators, as well as price characteristics - how to choose, for what, and what power.

Chainsaw classes

Before choosing, you need to first determine for yourself what basic work you will perform with a chainsaw. This will need to be taken into account when selecting the power of the tool and its ability to function continuously for a certain time. This is the class of chainsaws, of which three have been invented so far:

Household

Such a tool is designed to work “occasionally”, not every day and not on large volumes. Most often, this is a technique with low power indicators, which is suitable, for example, for seasonal harvesting of firewood in small quantities. With minimal functionality and low power, such a chainsaw weighs very little and consumes minimal fuel. It is not capable of sawing thick logs, but it is easy to hold and carry, and you can take it with you into the forest. Designed to work no more than 40-60 minutes a day, with a total output of up to 20-25 engine hours in one month.



Photo: http://dm-st.ru

Semi-professional

They can be used for more complex work, including sawing logs both crosswise and lengthwise. They are used in construction and repair work, and when cutting down fairly large trees. Average engine power, relatively low fuel consumption. Carrying it with you to logging sites is already heavy. Can work up to 10 hours a day with short breaks. For a summer cottage, the most correct choice, if you do not plan long and intensive construction.

Professional

A chainsaw for the home with already solid power indicators, up to 2.5 kilowatts or more. They have an expanded range of capabilities; they can already be brought to felling sites, where trees are felled for 15-20 hours a day. An excellent choice for clearing a large area of ​​overgrowth. The saw can operate without a break for about 8 hours, after which it needs a break of at least half an hour. The material from which they are made is much higher quality, stronger, and therefore more expensive. The production life of a professional chainsaw is up to 2000 operating hours. Such a saw is not needed for a dacha or for home use; it will not justify the costs, having a high cost and high consumption fuel. For one-time tree felling work, it is better to rent such saws.

Additional Selection Considerations

Engine position

In addition to the indicated types of tools, you should definitely pay attention (if you really want to take the device that best suits your needs) to the location and shape of the engine. If it is wider in the horizontal direction, and even has an offset relative to the axis of symmetry, you will not be able to use the saw for a long time. The center of gravity will be off-axis, the tool will always move to the side. You will have to constantly keep your hands tense, and during sawing, adjust the position of the chain so that the cut does not go to the side. It is preferable to choose a unit that has a longitudinal engine arrangement, without displacement along the axis of symmetry.

Cutting speed

The speed of cutting material directly depends on both the design and the condition of the sawing part. In modern saws from different manufacturers, chains mostly have the same tooth configuration; there is not much difference here. You just need to pay attention to the grade of steel, which will show an experienced user how often in the process continuous operation you will have to sharpen the cutting part.



Photo: http://www.mastershurik.ru

Do not forget that the sawing speed will also depend on your handling of the tool. The first component in this regard is the incorrect position of the saw during operation, its displacement relative to the cutting plane, excessive pressure, warping and other aspects. The second is how you monitor the condition of the chain and how promptly you sharpen it. Sometimes in an hour of work you have to sharpen the cutting edges several times; this depends not only on the intensity of the work, but also on the hardness of the material being processed. But usually you have to adjust the chain only at the end of the work shift, when the entire front has already been completed for the day.

Anti-vibration system

During operation of the unit, especially a powerful one, quite strong vibration vibrations are created, which are transmitted to the user’s hands. This affects not only the cleanliness of the cut, but also fatigue and affects human performance. Almost all professional chainsaws include an anti-vibration system in their design; some semi-professional chainsaws also have it, but household chainsaws are completely absent. Since we have decided that best choice country tool It will be the middle category; when choosing, we will pay attention to this important detail.



Photo: http://chernigov.chn.slando.ua

The simplest anti-vibration system of a chainsaw is a set of thick rubber gaskets located between the body of the unit and its handle. More complex versions of such systems have special springs in this place that dampen vibration.

Let's talk about brands

First: domestic manufacturers today are clearly inferior in quality of goods in this area. Tested not only by many users, but also by many experts who test equipment. Second: Of all the models, the Shtil and Husqvarna chainsaws have proven themselves better in long-term use. True, in terms of price they are also in first place. But the cost comes with quality, so if you want a really good, trouble-free tool, stop looking at this range of saws first.

First echelon

To perform very periodic work, you just need a “self-sawing hacksaw”, the simplest, but quality option performed by Shtil-18 (180) or a similar Husqvarna model. It will cost no more than 5.5-6 thousand rubles for all the pleasure.

To work with a volume of up to 6 cubic meters of slabs per season for trimming logs, such equipment is already rather weak, you need to take from the price category of 8-9 thousand rubles, this is the Shtil-21 (210) brand.



Photo: http://www.domikpro.ru

For a house outside the city, in which there is a bathhouse with a wood-burning stove, and the construction of outbuildings is planned, it is better to take the Shtil-25 (250) or a similar type of Husqvarna saw. It will cost 10.5-12 thousand.

Industrial scale, that is, building a house, clearing plantings, serious logging, is best done with a Shtil-36 (360) saw, or at worst, a 262 model from the same manufacturer.

There are not many felling saws, especially high-quality ones. You definitely won’t find felling “Calm” in modern Russian stores; the only thing left in this category is “Husqvarna” with horns. It costs up to 34 thousand rubles, so for a home or dacha it’s just a waste of substantial funds.

Second echelon

In this segment you will find the “Partner” brand and all kinds of its clones. For example, “Jonsered”, with a different body color, but absolutely the same parameters, dimensions, design, and so on. The power ratings of these units are lower, but this does not mean at all that you cannot cut through large logs with such a saw. Even a small chainsaw of these brands can also do serious work at the same time; the only question is time and effort.



Photo: http://sawwood.ru

Important! When choosing “Partner” saws and analogues, it is better to ask the seller right away, in the store, to select a “Shtilevskaya” chain for the unit. The Shtil company specially produces chains for such second-tier saws, and they should be in any specialized store. They have larger teeth, but that's not the main thing. The main advantage is the material, of course. But you will still have to sharpen the cutting edges after each job.

Saws in this category differ favorably only in price; there are no other advantages. With the same power characteristics as the Shtil or Husqvarna, the Partner will weigh a little more and be more difficult to handle. Other disadvantages of second-tier chainsaws: the close location of the muffler to the body of the unit, a weak spring at the point where the handle is attached, a shorter service life of engine hours and a lower strength of the structure as a whole. The body material is plastic, which, when heated strongly during long work It might just melt. Chips can collect under the muffler, since the gap between it and the body is much smaller than the similar gap on the Shtili. The chips heat up and the body, again, melts.

That's the whole review of modern chainsaws on our market. Brands and models are discussed in more detail in ours. Right choice saws for home and garden are yours!

One of the main tools for any summer resident is a chainsaw. It is an excellent assistant when preparing firewood for the winter, when working in the garden, as well as when carrying out construction work related to wood processing. The choice of this tool must be approached with all responsibility, because it has a fairly high cost and is not purchased for 1 year.

When choosing a chainsaw for your home, you need to consider not only its specifications, but also the type of work expected, continuous operating time and equipment. Due to the fact that on modern market There are a huge number of chainsaws available, making a choice in favor of one model or another is very difficult. Therefore, let’s look at how to choose the right chainsaw for your home.

The design and principle of operation of a chainsaw

Despite the wide variety of gasoline chain saws, they all consist of the following basic elements:

  • two-stroke gasoline engine;
  • devices for supplying torque from the internal combustion engine to the cutting blade, that is, from the gearbox to the guide sprocket;
  • tires along which the cutting blade moves during operation;
  • housing made of aluminum, steel or plastic;
  • working handles, with the help of which the operation of the tool is controlled.

When starting the chainsaw, a spark is created, which ignites the gasoline. As a result, gas is released, which starts the engine of the tool. With the help of a gearbox and a guide sprocket, torque from the engine is supplied to the chain. For permanent job the instrument requires fuel. When the chainsaw turns off, the gas supply stops and the cutting blade stops.

Modern models are equipped with an automatic clutch. When the cutting blade jams in the thickness of the wood, it reduces the engine speed or completely turns it off. This allows not only to reduce the level of injuries, but also to protect the tool from premature failure.

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Advantages and disadvantages of gasoline saws

The main advantages of chain saws are:

  1. Mobility. Due to the absence of the need for a power source, the saw can be used not only on a personal plot, but also in the forest.
  2. Wide choice of power. Depending on the class, gasoline saws have different powers, so you can choose the best option for performing certain jobs.
  3. Independence from weather conditions. The tool can be used at any level of humidity and ambient temperature.

However, before choosing a chainsaw, you should consider not only its advantages, but also its disadvantages:

  1. The need for frequent preparation of the fuel mixture. In this case, it is necessary to strictly observe the proportions of gasoline and oil.
  2. Presence of exhaust gases. When a gasoline unit operates, exhaust gases are released into the surrounding area, causing negative impact on human well-being and health. In this regard, it is not recommended to use such a tool in enclosed spaces.
  3. Compared to an electric saw, a gasoline unit has significantly more weight.
  4. Availability loud noise and high vibrations, which sharply reduces the quality of the cut.

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How to choose a chainsaw by class

According to the scope of application, chainsaws are divided into household, semi-professional and professional. First class saws have the lowest power (up to 2 kW) and can be used for no more than 45-50 minutes per day. They are equipped with low-profile cutting blades that reduce vibration during operation. Household chainsaws are convenient, have a relatively light weight and can cope with most tasks that periodically arise in the home. summer cottages(harvesting firewood, pruning trees, etc.).

Semi professional equipment equipped with more powerful engines (2-3 kW), which allows it to be used not only for economic purposes, but also on construction sites and felling forests. Semi-professional saws can be used continuously for up to 10 hours daily, but not more than 200 hours per month, as otherwise they will quickly fail. This instrument weighs about 5.5 kg. Saws of this class are the best option if you need to build a house that requires a lot of woodwork (flooring, creating a frame, etc.).

Professional equipment is equipped with the most powerful motors (3-6 kW), capable of operating more than 200 hours per month. Such saws do an excellent job with logging work; they can cut thick trees. However, it is not recommended to buy such a tool for household tasks, because it has high price, significant weight (more than 6 kg) and high level of vibration.

Therefore, if you need to choose a chainsaw for your home, then you should not overpay for unnecessary power. The best option in this case would be a household-grade saw.

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What to look for when buying a chainsaw

Before choosing a chainsaw to perform certain tasks, you need to pay special attention to the following characteristics of this tool:

  • power and weight;
  • tire length;
  • chain pitch;
  • safety;
  • design.

Power and weight. When choosing a chainsaw for your garden, first of all you should pay attention to the weight and power of the tool. For execution simple tasks A power of 2 kW is quite enough. Such equipment will be light in weight, which will allow it to operate without excessive effort.

Tire length. The tire is the part of the tool to which the cutting blade (chain) is attached. The diameter of the tree, which you can cut in one go, depends on its length.

When choosing a bar, you need to take into account not only the tasks that the saw will perform, but also the power of the tool: the greater the power, the longer the bar can be installed.

Tires can be:

  • 30-35 cm - used for cutting wood with a thickness of no more than 30 cm in 1 approach or no more than 60 cm if sawing in 2 approaches;
  • 40-45 cm – for cutting wood up to 40 cm thick in 1 approach or up to 80 cm in 2;
  • more than 45 cm – used for cutting thick trees with a cross-section of more than 80 cm.

Chain pitch. Chain pitch is the distance between the nearest teeth, although ½ the distance between rivets is often used as a unit of pitch. On the market you can find chains with pitches of 0.325″, 0.375″ (3/8″) and 0.404″.

0.325″ pitch chains are used in consumer grade chainsaws. A small step allows you to reduce the level of vibration, but the performance of a saw with such a chain will also be small. Semi-professional and professional saws are equipped with cutting blades with pitches of 0.375″ and 0.404″. When they work, higher vibration is created, but the productivity of the tool also increases significantly.

Safety. One of the main causes of injury when operating chainsaws is kickback. It occurs when the saw chain hits a hard object (such as a nail), causing the saw to be thrown backwards. To protect against this phenomenon, the saw must be equipped with a special shield, which automatically stops the cutting blade in the event of a reverse impact.

Design. The further apart the fuel tank and the engine are, the more evenly the weight will be distributed, and accordingly, it will be easier to work with such a tool. It should be noted that most experts recommend buying a chainsaw with a longitudinal engine.