How to grow chrysanthemums. Chrysanthemum garden perennial planting and care in the fall. When to replant a chrysanthemum

03.11.2019

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Chrysanthemums can be found in almost every flower bed. They have earned the love of flower growers due to their abundant and long-lasting flowering, as well as their ease of care.

The finished plant can be purchased at a flower shop, or you can grow it yourself seedling method or by taking from neighbors. With proper care, young seedlings or cuttings rooted in pots will eventually turn into full-fledged bushes. And here comes one of the main moments - planting chrysanthemums from a pot into open ground.

In order for the chrysanthemum to quickly take root and delight you with its flowering in the first year, you should pay attention to some points related to replanting:

choose the right time and place;
prepare the ground;
regularly care for the bush;
carry out periodic fertilizing.

Time and place for planting chrysanthemums

Both young and bushes that have been dug up and planted in a pot for wintering indoors should be planted in open ground no earlier than the soil has warmed up. The optimal temperature of the earth layer to a depth of 20 cm is 14 degrees Celsius. Depending on weather conditions, the estimated disembarkation time is the end of May.

Chrysanthemums must be planted after the night frosts have ended. It is better to do this in the morning or in cloudy weather.

For lush flowering and the formation of large inflorescences, chrysanthemum requires good lighting, so you should avoid shady places. In addition, the site must be protected from wind and drafts. It is also not recommended to plant the plant in lowlands where moisture accumulates - this leads to rotting of the root system and further death.

Soil selection and preparation

Chrysanthemums grow best on loose fertile soil with neutral acidity.

Clayey or sandy soil should be fertilized with organic matter (humus).

In the selected area, make holes with a distance of 50 cm from each other - for large varieties, and 30 cm for other types. The depth of the planting hole depends on the size of the chrysanthemum’s root system (the roots should be free), but it is not necessary to go too deep, since the plant’s roots do not develop deeply. Pour a little sand into each hole and water it.

Caring for and feeding planted chrysanthemums

Further planting care includes:

regular watering directly under the root with settled water;
loosening the soil after watering;
removal of weeds.

In order to form a beautiful bush, young seedlings are pinched.

Complex preparations are also used to fertilize planted chrysanthemums. In order to prolong flowering, phosphorus fertilizers are used. In total, three feedings per season are enough.

Spring transplantation of chrysanthemum with propagation - video

The main autumn flowers are chrysanthemums, planting and care open ground These flowers are not particularly difficult to grow, but they require compliance with a number of conditions when growing, both in spring and autumn. Do not break the rules if you want to plant a flower from a bouquet or root a shoot, and to propagate the plant in the fall, read the basics. If you don’t know how to form a beautiful bush into a ball, then remember, you need pinching and pruning for the winter, or try to grow a special variety that will only need a single pinching...

Methods and timing of propagation of chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemums are annual - they are grown annually from seeds, and perennial - they can be propagated by seeds, cuttings, queen cells or dividing the bush. Chrysanthemums are planted in spring and autumn; each season has its own advantages:

Seeds They are sown in open ground in May, and when the seedlings grow 10 cm, they are pinched. In autumn, chrysanthemums are already blooming
Cuttings- a very popular method of propagating chrysanthemums. You can grow a bush by cutting a cutting even from a bouquet. How to root a chrysanthemum shoot? A shoot about 6 cm long is rooted in soil consisting of sand and peat. The box covered with glass is kept in a cool place, no higher than +15°C. When the roots appear, the plants are planted in separate pots and then, with the end of frost, in open ground. If you purchased a cutting the right variety in the fall, do not plant it in the ground, but root it in a container and leave it in a cool room until spring
Queen cell- this is an overwintered rhizome of a chrysanthemum from which shoots will come; it can be purchased and planted in early spring
Dividing the bush- the only method of autumn planting of chrysanthemums, in which the plant is carefully dug up, the roots of the mother bush with shoots are divided into several copies with pruners and planted. This procedure should be carried out every two years to rejuvenate the plant.

Chrysanthemums, planting in spring and autumn

Please note that if you decide to grow chrysanthemums, planting and care in open ground differ in spring and autumn - when planting in spring, queen cells and cuttings take root better, but in autumn you can choose flowering bush and don’t be mistaken with its appearance.

During very frosty winters, choose Korean small-flowered hybrids of chrysanthemums, which are nicknamed oak - this species unites many varieties, zoned in middle lane and Moscow region. Large-flowered Indian chrysanthemums are tall - they grow up to a meter, and sometimes up to one and a half, but they are afraid of cold weather and freeze out easily.

For chrysanthemums, choose a sunny, preferably elevated place. Flowers do not like stagnant moisture, so waterlogged soil is drained by adding a layer of coarse river sand to the planting hole. The soil is preferably slightly acidic or neutral, light and loose. Too dense - mixed with peat, humus or rotted compost.

Chrysanthemum plants are placed every 30-50 cm. A shallow hole is dug so that the shoots on the mother plant or two-thirds of the cuttings are not covered with soil; when dividing the bush, this is approximately 40 cm. No more than 0.5 kg of humus or compost is added to the hole. If you overdo it with fertilizers, the flowers will be small, and only the foliage will be lush. It is recommended to water the roots with a stimulant (Epin, Kornevin, Heteroauxin), and then cover them with soil and compact it. After spring planting, it is advisable to cover the cuttings from the sun with spunbond for a couple of weeks.

At autumn planting The chrysanthemum bush must be watered abundantly; this will compact the soil, eliminating voids in it, due to which the roots can freeze. In addition, the flowers are cut off and a third of the stems are left so that the nutrients go to the development of the root system.

Chrysanthemums, care - watering, fertilizing, pruning, shelter

Chrysanthemum does not tolerate stagnant moisture, but it loves watering - without water, the stems become stiff and the flowers become smaller. At the same time, the flower does not tolerate sprinkling; it needs to be watered at the root, preferably with rain or settled water. After watering, the soil is loosened to avoid crusting.

In spring, chrysanthemums need nitrogen fertilizing to rapid growth, you can do it 2-3 weeks after planting. In the second half of summer, with the beginning of chrysanthemum budding, phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are applied to ensure lush flowering and strengthen the plants before wintering. In the fall, you can feed the flowers a little with organic matter. Tall varieties need to be tied up, as their fragile stems can break.

The beginning of frost is a signal that it is time to leave for the winter. The trunks of chrysanthemums are cut off in late autumn, leaving 10-centimeter stumps and insulated with sawdust or leaves. The most delicate varieties They wrap the top with a covering material and, to protect it from moisture, put something flat on top - for example, a plywood board. Some gardeners dig up the roots and store them in a dark, cold cellar in winter to ensure the preservation of the variety.

How to create spherical chrysanthemum bushes

For flowers such as chrysanthemums, planting and caring in open ground is not all that is needed, and simple processing will allow you to create real masterpieces from them.

After winter, chrysanthemums are cut and pinched to obtain a beautiful spherical bush. There is a variety in which the bush itself grows in the form of a ball, without needing to be formed - this is the multiflora chrysanthemum, a low-growing bush up to 20 cm in height - when two pairs of leaves appear on the shoot, it is pinched, and then the ball forms itself.

Multiflora can be grown not only in a flowerbed, but also in a pot. But, at the end of flowering, the above-ground part of the plant is cut off and sent to rest - in a dark, cool place, for the whole winter. Periodically, dormant chrysanthemums are watered so that the roots do not dry out. In February, the first shoots appear, which means that the plant has woken up and it’s time to get it out of the basement. If a spherical chrysanthemum grows in a flowerbed, the stems need to be cut to 10 cm and covered with sawdust and non-woven material for the winter.

Multiflora loves soil rich in fertilizers; when planting, add more humus to the hole and wood ash. If you grow it in a pot, you can prepare the soil from 30% humus and 20% sand, the remaining 50% is turf soil.

You can also form a ball from other types of chrysanthemums; in small- and medium-flowered ones, the main shoot is pinched when it reaches 10-12 cm, then the side shoots that have grown to the same length are cut off, after which they actively branch, pinching is done until the buds appear.

In large-flowered species of chrysanthemums, stems 15 cm long are cut, one or two pinchings are carried out no later than June, in addition, they are pinched - from mid-July, shoots emerging from the leaf axils are removed daily, and starting from August - every three days, then you can get a spherical bush with large flowers up to 10 cm in diameter.

It is difficult to imagine an autumn flower garden without perennial chrysanthemums. Their variety of colors pleases the eye when the leaves on the trees have already fallen off, and there are simply no other garden flowers. Planting and caring for perennial chrysanthemums has its own nuances, but does not pose any particular difficulties.

Varieties and types

These perennials with flowers collected in baskets, they differ in both the height of the bushes, the size of the flowers, and their color.

Alpine chrysanthemum.

These are low-growing chrysanthemum flowers. View for placement on alpine slide, since the height of the plant does not exceed 14 cm. Its leaves are pinnately dissected gray-green, the flowers look like single baskets with a diameter of 3 to 5 cm. Flowering in mid-summer. Overwinters without shelter.

Korean chrysanthemum.

This chrysanthemum is most often grown in regions with frosty winters. Despite the fact that it comes from southern countries (Korea, Japan, China), it can withstand the vicissitudes of our climate well, although it needs shelter.

Interesting varieties included in the State Register of Breeding Achievements:

Altyn Ay. The bush is no higher than 60 cm. It bears yellow double flowers up to 8 cm in diameter on strong peduncles. Begins to bloom in mid-August. Blooms profusely and lasts for more than 2 months.
Dina. The bush is about 45 cm high. Flowering begins after August 10. The flowers are white, 8 cm in diameter. Flowering is very long - up to 70 days.
Zemfira. It blooms already at the end of July. It blooms for almost 3 months with medium-sized and non-double flowers of light pink color.
Autumn dreams. It blooms for almost 3 months with yellow semi-double flowers with a diameter of 7.5 cm.

There are also varieties that have not been tested, but are no less interesting:

Bacon. Bright red flowers on a bush up to 85 cm high they bloom in September. They are terry and have a diameter of 5 cm.
Evening lights. The inflorescences are simple red with a yellow ring.
Orange sunset. The flowers are double, large (up to 11 cm), orange. Bush about 80 cm high.
Malchish-Kibalchish. A low-growing plant, no higher than 35 cm. Blooms in simple pink flowers at the end of summer.
Umka. Tall, up to 110 cm, the bush is decorated with large pompom flowers up to 8 cm in diameter, white or slightly pinkish.
Stranger. Winter-hardy variety, blooming from late July. White at first large flowers gradually turn lilac at the tips.
Inspiration. Flowers up to 10 cm in diameter, double, fragrant. They bloom in September. They are winter hardy.

Border garden chrysanthemums occupy a special place. Their bushes do not grow higher than 30 cm and take a spherical shape without any shaping.

The best varieties:

Talisman - flowers of beetroot-raspberry color;
Barbara with lilac-lilac flowers.

Perennial chrysanthemums: nuances of growing

Chrysanthemum is a southerner and few species have been able to adapt to our climate. Beautiful large-flowered varieties can only be grown in the south. Even Korean chrysanthemums, which are more frost-resistant, can freeze out in snowless winters. The peculiarity of the plants is that they do not like wet wintering, so drainage is required for them. Another nuance - the chrysanthemum bush is short-lived and requires renewal every 3 years.

Planting in open ground

In open ground you need to grow varieties adapted for frosty winters. Zoned varieties and those grown from seeds grow, bloom and winter best.

Soil and site preparation

The place for chrysanthemums is chosen to be sunny, fully illuminated throughout the day. Even slight shading will inevitably affect flowering and the plant stems will become elongated. It is also necessary to provide protection from the wind. The area should not be dry, but this flower also does not tolerate stagnant water.

The soil for chrysanthemums must meet the following requirements:

be loose, any mechanical composition is suitable, except heavy clay;
allows water and air to pass through well;
have a slightly acidic reaction, so it is useful to add peat to the planting hole;
be fertile - on thin soils flowering will be poor.

Under digging for every square. m add up to 20 kg of humus, 100 g of superphosphate and potassium sulfate, 30 g of urea. On heavy soils ah, sand is added for drainage.

You cannot apply fresh manure under chrysanthemums - the plants do not tolerate it.

How and when to plant?

Usually chrysanthemums are on sale in the fall, it is at this time that they bloom and correspond to varietal characteristics. They come in pots, so they need to be repotted. But in the fall it is better not to disturb the flowers, otherwise attacks in winter are inevitable. The plant devotes all its energy to flowering, but there is simply no energy left for rooting. Best time for planting chrysanthemums - spring. IN southern regions it is carried out at the end of April or in May, and in the northern regions you will have to wait until the end of the return spring frosts.

Plants are planted in holes 40 cm deep, with drainage placed at the bottom.
Add a handful of humus to each hole and water the soil well. Chrysanthemums are not buried deep when planting.
The distance between plants is about 40 cm, between rows - 50 cm.
It is necessary to provide support for the bushes in the form of strong pegs, to which the plants are tied.

Caring for chrysanthemums

In order for plants to be healthy and bloom well, they need to be properly cared for. The first thing they do after rooting the cuttings is to pinch the top for better tillering. After 3 weeks, pinching is repeated, forming a spherical shape of the bush. If the cuttings are received late, this operation is not necessary; such chrysanthemums are grown in a single-stem culture. During the growing season, regular weeding, loosening of the soil, watering and fertilizing will be required.

Watering the plant

Chrysanthemums are sensitive to lack of moisture, as a result the stems become woody and full flowering cannot be achieved. Excess water is also harmful - it contributes to root rot. Therefore, you need to achieve a golden mean and focus on weather. Watering is especially necessary in dry weather and during flowering. Water with settled water and only at the root.

Feeding and fertilizer

Chrysanthemums require both mineral and organic feeding.

Every 2-3 weeks, feed with a solution of mineral fertilizer. In the first half of the growing season with a predominance of nitrogen, in the second - phosphorus and potassium at the rate of 40 g per ten-liter bucket (this amount is enough for 2 sq. m of planting).
3 times per season, fertilize with mullein infusion in a ratio of 1:10. Each plant will require a liter of solution.

All fertilizing is combined with watering clean water. The next day the soil needs to be loosened.

Care after flowering and preparation for winter

This is the time to prepare for winter. In order for wintering to be successful, a number of activities need to be carried out.

Plants are fed with phosphorus and potassium fertilizers.
The bushes are trimmed, leaving about 15 cm of the stem.
They are covered with earth brought from another part of the site so as not to expose the roots.
Cover with a layer of dry leaves up to 40 cm thick.
Cover the top with material that retains snow - spruce branches or dry branches.

Transfer

Chrysanthemums are short-lived. In the third year, the middle of the bush falls out and the flowers become smaller.

To renew the bushes and give them new life, the chrysanthemum is divided and planted in a new place.

Transplant time is spring. The bush needs to be carefully dug up, shaking off the soil a little. Divide plants using a sharp knife. Each division should have buds and roots. Further actions are the same as when planting cuttings.

Propagation of perennial chrysanthemum

Perennial garden chrysanthemums are propagated by dividing the bush, cuttings and sowing seeds. The latter plants will be best adapted to the climate where they are grown.

Seeds for seedlings are sown in early March in a mixture purchased in a store or prepared independently of the following composition: garden soil, peat and humus in equal quantities.
Drainage is placed at the bottom of the sowing container.
Seeds of perennial chrysanthemum are sown superficially, slightly pressing them to the ground.
The container is covered with a plastic bag and placed in a bright place with a temperature of 25 degrees.

Immediately after the emergence of seedlings, the bag is not removed, but is done gradually, accustoming the plants to fresh air. When the shoots acquire two true leaves, they are dropped into separate cups.

Conditions for keeping seedlings:

temperature 18 degrees;
a lot of light, if necessary - additional lighting;
fertilizing once every 14 days with a solution of complete mineral fertilizer.

Plant seedlings in the ground after frost, trying to preserve the roots as much as possible.

At seed propagation parental characteristics are not preserved.

For spring cuttings, you need to dig up the plant in the fall, plant it in a pot and care for it in winter as if it were indoor flower. Cuttings are prepared from young shoots 5 cm long, removing the lower leaves. Plant in a container with sand under a glass jar. After rooting, the cuttings are grown and planted in the ground.

Plant diseases and pests

When growing garden perennial chrysanthemums, you may encounter some diseases.

Fungal diseases:

gray rot ( brown spots on the leaves, covered with a gray coating);
powdery mildew(white coating);
rust (small specks of chlorosis).

All of them can be treated with copper-containing fungicides, and colloidal sulfur is also effective against rust.

Viral diseases:

mosaic (speckled spots on leaves);
aspermia (deformed flowers and speckled leaves);
dwarfism (small stature not appropriate for the variety, premature flowering).

There is no treatment; diseased plants are destroyed.

The main pests of chrysanthemum: nematodes, meadow bugs, aphids. In the first case, pest control is impossible. The plant is destroyed. As a preventative measure, spill the soil with a phosphamide solution. For bugs and aphids, you can try treatment with infusions of onion peels or hot pepper. If this does not help, treat the plants with insecticides.

From mid-summer until the very frost, many household plots, summer cottages and front gardens are decorated with bright garden chrysanthemum bushes. The plant blooms even when many flowers have already withered after the first frost. Even the most experienced gardeners are amazed at the variety of flower colors, types and shapes. You can learn about the varieties and characteristics of growing the “queen of autumn” by reading our article. Photos of chrysanthemums will help you choose the right type of flower for your garden.

Varieties and varieties of garden chrysanthemums with photos

Garden chrysanthemum is a perennial plant, the height of which depends on the type and can be from 15 to 150 cm. Currently, a large number of chrysanthemum varieties are known, which, according to some features and characteristics, are combined into groups.

Size of inflorescences

Perennial chrysanthemums are divided into three groups based on the diameter of their flowers:

small-flowered;
medium-flowered;
grandiflora.

Small-flowered or korean plants can be simple and terry. A large number of inflorescences grow on one bush with a flower diameter of 2-10 cm. The bushes themselves can reach a height of 25 to 120 cm. The leaves of the plant have the shape of oak leaves. Flowers are frost-resistant, undemanding to soil composition and easy to care for. Their flowering begins in mid-September and continues until frost.

Medium-flowered or decorative chrysanthemums can be grown not only to decorate the garden, but also for cutting. They also grow well in pots at home. They can decorate balconies, loggias and terraces. Ornamental bushes grow up to 30-70 cm, and have a flower diameter of 10-18 cm.

Large-flowered chrysanthemums represent spectacular tall plants. The length of their stem can reach from 80 to 120 cm. They bloom with large flowers with a diameter of 10-25 cm. This type of chrysanthemum does not tolerate frost well. Only certain varieties of it can winter in open ground. These flowers are mainly intended for cutting into bouquets.

Shape and height of the bush

According to the shape and height of the bush, garden chrysanthemums are divided into three types, each of which has many varieties.

Tall. The stems of this type of garden chrysanthemum can be very tall and require supports in the form of frames, metal mesh or wooden pegs. Supports are installed during planting of bushes. Plants planted in a group can be used as a hedge. Most popular varieties tall garden chrysanthemums are:

“Amber Lady” - the plant is distinguished by inflorescences of a golden hue.
“Umka” - chrysanthemums with white flowers, the shape of which resembles a pompom.
"Rosetta's Daughter" is strewn with flat inflorescences with flowers in pink and white shades.

Medium height. Bushes growing up to 30-50 cm look very impressive both in a flower bed and along paths, fences, and gazebos. With their help, you can realize various design fantasies. The best varieties of medium-sized garden chrysanthemums are considered:

“Zorka” - the plant is distinguished by its yellow-brown color, which just suits the autumn mood.
“Dune” is a truly magical variety, the flowers of which can change color during flowering. They bloom yellow-brown, and after a few days they turn yellow-gold.
“Lily” will help add brightness to any composition with its dark crimson flowers.

Borders. Plants small size they grow only up to 30 cm. This type of chrysanthemum is considered one of the most beautiful garden flowers. Border chrysanthemum bushes have the shape of a ball, strewn with small flowers. The most popular varieties in this group are:

"Varvara" is a plant with delicate lilac-lilac flowers.
“Evening Lights” - the variety is distinguished by scarlet inflorescences that resemble festive fireworks.
“Talisman” is strewn with bright beetroot-raspberry flowers.

Flower shape

Garden chrysanthemums have five different types of flower shapes:

Garden chrysanthemums - planting and care

Landing Features

Chrysanthemums love sunny areas. The plant requires a lot of light to set flower buds. Chrysanthemums will not bloom even in partial shade.

The soil should be rich in organic matter. Therefore, while digging for one square meter soil, you need to add one bucket of manure, compost or peat. There is no need to add more organic matter, otherwise only leaves will grow vigorously on the bush, and the plant will bloom with very small flowers.

Rules of care

Caring for a garden chrysanthemum, Special attention you need to pay attention to watering it, because the plant depends on soil moisture level. You need to water the bushes in a timely manner, otherwise the flower will drop all its buds.

The volume of water for watering one bush depends on its characteristics. Plants with small, hard leaves can be watered less often than bushes with soft, large leaves that evaporate a lot of moisture.

Chrysanthemums respond well to feeding. For this purpose, complex mineral fertilizers containing magnesium and potassium, and organic ones in the form of humates are used. During active growth of green mass, the plant is fed with nitrogen.

Caring for garden chrysanthemums includes the formation of a bush. It is necessary regularly pinch and trim. For the first time, the top of the plant is removed when the central shoot grows to 10 cm. After some time, when the side shoots grow to 10 cm, their crown is also pinched. After this, the bush grows until flowering.

During the period when the chrysanthemum is blooming, faded and faded buds must be regularly removed from its bush. This way you can extend the flowering period.

If you want to get large beautiful flowers, you can do a total pruning of the side shoots. As a result, only one stem and one peduncle will remain on the bush. All the plant’s forces will go towards the formation and growth of the flower.

Caring for garden chrysanthemums in winter

In order for a plant planted in the garden to bloom just as beautifully and profusely next year, you need to make sure that it overwinters well.

In frosty winters even cold-resistant varieties require shelter. Therefore, after flowering ends, the stems of the bushes are cut back to the ground. The plant hills up and is covered with fallen leaves.

Chrysanthemums with large flowers are afraid of sub-zero temperatures. Therefore, they need to be dug up together with a lump of earth and planted in suitable container. Plants are stored until planting in the spring in a room with a temperature of 0-5 degrees. Caring for them involves rare watering of the earthen clod, which should not dry out.

Diseases and pests of perennial chrysanthemums

With proper care, the plant is rarely affected by pests and practically does not get sick. However, the bushes need to be inspected regularly in order to identify the problem as early as possible and begin to treat the plant. The threat to garden chrysanthemums is:

Spider mites are pests that suck sap from plants. It can be detected by cobweb formations on the back of the leaf. If the leaves of a chrysanthemum become gray-brown, begin to darken and fall off, then most likely a mite has settled on it. The plant must be treated with special chemicals.
Leaf nematodes - the disease is manifested by deformation of the leaves and their darkening between the veins. In this case, you need to change the soil and trim the damaged areas.
Verticillium is infection which penetrates through the roots. Therefore, the leaves begin to turn yellow and wither from the bottom of the bush. Spraying with biological products will help in the initial stages.
Powdery mildew first affects the leaves and buds, on which a white coating appears. The affected parts of the plant are removed, and the bush itself is treated with Bordeaux mixture.

Reproduction of bush chrysanthemum

Chrysanthemum can be propagate in three ways:

dividing the bush;
seeds;
cuttings.

Dividing the bush

Bushes can be divided in the spring, but only after the threat of frost has passed. To make chrysanthemums bloom better, it is recommended to divide their bushes every three years. To do this, the plant is carefully dug up and divided into several small bushes. The roots of the plant will need to be cut. The cuttings are planted in the ground and watered.

Seed propagation

In open ground sowing takes place in May. For each future plant, a separate hole is dug, the distance between them should be 25 cm. 3-4 seeds are buried in one hole. Chrysanthemums should bloom for the first time at the end of summer.

Cuttings

Propagation by cuttings is the easiest way, since chrysanthemums take root quickly and well.

A cutting with 3-4 leaves is cut under the leaf pattern. Its length should be 6-8 cm.
The container is filled first with peat, and then with sand, into which the cutting is planted.
The soil is sprayed and the box is covered with glass.

The temperature for rooting should be between 13-15 degrees. When the roots appear, the cuttings will need transplant into separate pots. Young bushes are planted in open ground only when frost has passed.

By following the rules for planting and caring for garden chrysanthemums, you can achieve beautiful and spectacular flowering during half the summer and almost the entire fall. Any area of the garden where the “Queen of Autumn” will grow will become a luxurious garden decoration.

Bush chrysanthemum

Chrysanthemum Chrysanthemum is a genus of perennial garden flowers of the Asteraceae family. They are native to Asia and Northeastern Europe. Most species originate from East Asia, with the greatest variety in China, where chrysanthemums were grown there from the 5th century BC, came to Japan in the eighth century AD, and to England at the end of the 18th century.

Chrysanthemums are herbaceous plants with woody stems or subshrubs, with erect stems, usually covered with fine pubescence (glabrous in some species). The leaves are alternate, entire or notched, with a jagged edge. The foliage color is green or light green. If you rub the leaves or break a branch, you will notice a peculiar smell, sometimes quite tart, a characteristic difference between chrysanthemums and asters.

Inflorescences are baskets of small flowers of two types: central tubular, yellow, marginal flowers - reed flowers of a wide variety of colors. The fruit of a chrysanthemum is an achene.

Classification of chrysanthemums

During the selection process, simple inflorescences have almost completely replaced semi-double and double ones, in which the inflorescence has a cap of multi-row reed flowers. But in addition to double and simple inflorescences, there are other forms: anemone-shaped, tubular, Chinese, peony-shaped, pompom-shaped, decorative, arachnid, etc. Often the difference lies in the shape of the reed flowers - in some varieties they are straight, in others they are slightly curved like a boat, in others they are slightly spiral.

Most often, perennial frost-resistant chrysanthemums of Korean selection are used for garden landscaping, as they are the most unpretentious and frost-resistant; they are often popularly called 'oak' - due to the shape of the leaves, reminiscent of oak leaves.

All varieties of chrysanthemums can be divided according to flowering periods into:

Early bloomers - bloom at the end of August. These varieties are usually low-growing and dense bushes about 25-35 cm tall, used in borders.
Medium flowering - bloom in early September, mainly with an average height of bushes of 50-60 cm.
Late flowering - bloom at the end of September, beginning of October, mostly tall, up to 100 cm or more, require garter.

Chrysanthemums bloom for more than a month. U low-growing varieties, as a rule, very decorative foliage, which allows you to form multi-tiered flower beds that bloom from late summer to late autumn.

Place for planting garden chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemums grow best and produce the most flowers when planted on sunny area. They need at least three hours of full sun per day.

They also require well-fertilized soil, enough moisture, but not too much. Chrysanthemums do not tolerate dry, peaty or sandy soil - poor in mineral composition and do not retain moisture. But they also cannot tolerate stagnation of water and dampness!

Ideally they need a light sandy loam soil, well seasoned with humus and organic matter. Like most garden flowers, chrysanthemums love well-drained soil with big amount organic matter such as compost.

Landing

The soil in flower beds for chrysanthemums needs to be prepared in advance: if it is heavy, clayey, add sand, humus, peat, you can measure it in buckets, take everything in equal parts. If the soil is light sandy, add loam, turf soil and humus. Peat soils require serious improvement - they are poor and acidic; loam or turf soil and humus must be added.

All components added to improve the soil must be mixed well. The fertile soil layer should be less than 40 cm.

If you have a plot in a lowland or on a slope, before filling the flower beds, add a layer of crushed stone drainage to the bottom of the trench.

Another important indicator Soil quality that you should pay attention to when planting chrysanthemums is acidity. Changes in acidity or alkalinity can seriously limit plant growth, weaken the root system and even lead to death. Chrysanthemums prefer an acidity of about 6.5, absolutely not lower than 6.2. To increase the pH of the soil, you need to lime the soil, and to lower it (on saline soil) add iron sulfate or aluminum sulfate.

For deoxidizing soil for chrysanthemums, dolomitic limestone is preferred because it contains magnesium and other minor amounts of nutrients. Slaked lime is not desirable - it very quickly reacts with a change in acidity and, when combined with mineral fertilizers, blocks available phosphorus.

We plant chrysanthemums obtained from dividing an old bush, container chrysanthemums purchased at a nursery, or rooted cuttings in rows depending on the size of the bushes: at a distance of 20-30 cm from each other for low-growing and medium-growing varieties, 45-50 cm for large-growing varieties.

Caring for chrysanthemums

Caring for chrysanthemums involves regular watering, fertilizing, removing faded inflorescences, trimming excess branches and plucking out buds. It is necessary to rejuvenate old bushes in a timely manner - once every three years.

How to water chrysanthemums

At the beginning of the growing season, chrysanthemums are watered about once a week, generously wetting the top layers of soil. In summer, as the temperature rises, the frequency of watering increases, this can be once or twice a week, depending on the weather. By the time of flowering in September, watering is even more frequent - at least three times a week, but do not forget that frequent watering is only permissible on well-drained soil!

Feeding

Chrysanthemums require a rich set of nutrients, in addition to nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, sulfur, calcium and magnesium are needed in significant quantities, and small amounts of iron and manganese are also needed, less significant, but it is desirable to be included in fertilizers for chrysanthemums: boron, copper and zinc.

Nitrogen is an element that promotes rapid leaf growth, but is most useful only at the beginning of the growing season, before the formation of inflorescences. Do not use nitrogen fertilizers later than June! If this element is added in excess, especially with a lack of light, the plant forms weak stems and a sluggish root system, and very easily becomes ill with powdery mildew and other diseases.

Phosphorus is vital for the health of chrysanthemums, especially for stimulating root growth and stem maturation; frost resistance of plants and general immunity depend on the sufficiency of phosphorus. If you apply phosphorus fertilizers, do not use double superphosphate, only regular one, it is more easily and evenly distributed in the soil, contains from 18% to 20% of available phosphoric acid.

Potassium promotes the formation of large inflorescences and dense woody stems. But if potassium is added in excess, for example, with ash, the foliage of chrysanthemums becomes very fragile, the stems are fibrous, do not hold moisture well and stand worse when cut.

It is best to feed chrysanthemums with a complete complex fertilizer, for example, with the NPK 5-10-10 formula, or even better with the NPK 5-10-5 formula:

If chrysanthemums are planted this spring, two feedings per season are sufficient.
If chrysanthemums were planted a year or two ago, feed them throughout the summer and once a month in the fall.

Since August only phosphorus fertilizer.

Chrysanthemum propagation

Chrysanthemums are propagated by seeds, cuttings and division; chrysanthemums in pots can be purchased at nurseries. Chrysanthemums are propagated by seeds very rarely - grown plants do not retain varietal qualities, and you can get completely unexpected shapes, colors and sizes.

If you want faster flowering, you need to propagate by division. To do this in the spring, at the beginning of the season, when the plants begin to grow, use a shovel to separate part of the bush from the periphery of the mother plant and plant it in a prepared flowerbed, filled with organic matter and complex fertilizer.

Old chrysanthemum bushes can be divided into several parts, leaving only the rather depleted middle.

Cuttings can be taken from chrysanthemums of any age. When the stem grows approximately 15-17 cm, cut off the top 10-14 cm and tear off the lower part of the leaves. You can dip the tip of the cutting into the root, although this is not necessary. But you definitely need to sterilize the soil in the pot.

Options for soil mixture for cuttings:

coarse river sand and universal peat soil (from the store) in equal parts
coarse river sand and vermiculite in equal parts
coarse river sand and sphagnum moss in equal parts

The soil needs to be sterilized in the oven or steamed in the garden over steam, and then shed with a solution of phytosporin. Immerse the cutting in it with the part where the leaves were removed. You can root cuttings in large peat tablets.

Keep the soil moderately moist, but not soggy. And be sure to keep it warm - for rooting you need a temperature of about 22-24°C and shade from direct sun.

You can cut chrysanthemums during the summer, just not in the hottest time. Roots form in about two weeks. When you see that the cutting has begun to grow new leaves, everything went well. After the young shoots have grown by about 5 cm, you can transplant young chrysanthemum bushes into flower beds using the transshipment method: without touching the root ball, remove them from the pot and plant them in prepared holes.

For any propagation method, divisions or cuttings, if the weather is very sunny, need to be shaded for 2-3 days. At the same time, rooted cuttings and young bushes should not be buried in the soil in the flower bed to a depth greater than they were rooted in the pot or in the old place.

The first watering can be carried out with a solution of the zircon preparation.

After planting in a permanent place in the garden, the soil around the chrysanthemums must be mulched to prevent the roots from drying out and to create a barrier to weeds. In addition, mulch protects the root system from overheating in the heat, and from hypothermia in winter.

Gradually, the mulch breaks down and forms humic acids, improving the quality of the soil - it becomes loose or crumbly. If you do not mulch the soil, then when planting chrysanthemums purchased in containers from the nursery, sprinkle them with soil 1.5-2 cm higher than in the pot.

How to plant chrysanthemums in autumn

If you managed to purchase a chrysanthemum cutting or a container plant at the end of summer or autumn, you can plant them in flower beds until mid-September so that they have time not only to take root in a new place, but also to sufficiently increase the root mass. If you don't meet deadlines, store chrysanthemums in containers.

It is necessary to transplant the chrysanthemum from a store pot or glass where the cutting took root into a wide but low container with universal flower soil. Do not prune immediately, just place the container in a moderately cool room. If you have an insulated balcony, you can grow chrysanthemums there until the end of October.

You can trim the above-ground part when the temperature reaches about +4 °C. If sub-zero temperatures are not expected on your balcony, then you don’t need to do anything else, just periodically - once a month or less often - water the plants a little, just enough so that the soil does not dry out completely.

If your temperature can drop slightly below zero (the balcony is glazed, but not heated), prepare a large cardboard box and insulation material: sawdust, straw, dried sphagnum moss, or a large cotton blanket.

When it gets colder (below +3-4°C), place the container with the chrysanthemum in a box, fill the gaps between the walls with sawdust, or lay batting or foam rubber. Focus on the thermometer readings. If necessary, cover with a blanket, stop watering, the soil should be dry. Cold temperatures below -2°C are unacceptable. Those. the temperature on the balcony can drop below zero (down to minus 5-7°C), but in a pot with chrysanthemum it remains at least minus 2°C.

If you have a warm greenhouse in your garden, then in February-March you can move the flowers there, water as needed - the soil should not be constantly damp or dry out, only moderate moisture.

If there is a lot of planting material in the greenhouse, carry out preventive treatment against diseases - spray all plants with phytosporin or hang iodine cushions (moisten tea bags with 0.5 ml of iodine for each and hang in 2-3 places in the greenhouse). The problem is that chrysanthemums are prone to fungal diseases, and greenhouses are poorly ventilated. Iodine vapors help disinfect the air and keep plants healthy until they are planted in flower beds in early May.

You can store chrysanthemums in a cellar or basement in winter if they are well ventilated and there is no high humidity or fungus on the walls.

Formation of a chrysanthemum bush

At the beginning of the season, when the stems grow in the spring, pinch them at a height of about 15-20 cm, approximately 2-3 cm from the crown. This will force the plant to actively branch, and when the side branches grow another 15 cm, pinch the top 1.5-2 cm again. This pinching process must be completed 50-60 days before the expected flowering - early flowering ones can be pinched until July, mid and late flowering ones - Until August.

The sizes of inflorescences are different for different varieties, large-flowered chrysanthemums have a basket diameter of 10 to 25 cm, they are grown in 2-3 stems, pinch and leave the largest inflorescences at the ends of the shoots - these are most often offered as cut flowers for bouquets, usually 1 on one branch -5 inflorescences.

Small-flowered chrysanthemums have a basket diameter of 2-9 cm, are usually grown in bush form, and the inflorescences are not single baskets, but a complex shield or panicle, with 15 - 20 inflorescences on one branch.

Chrysanthemums in winter

At the end of autumn, when the foliage dies, cut off the entire above-ground part of the plants at a height of 15-20 cm from the ground.

Cold resistance of chrysanthemums different varieties different, some are very frost-resistant, there are some that freeze out in central Russia and Siberia. If you buy seeds in a store or container seeds at a nursery, check the variety’s suitability for the climatic zone (can be indicated from 3 to 9).

In any case, you need to prepare for harsh winters by covering the bushes in late autumn with a high layer of mulch from straw, sawdust, fallen leaves or spruce branches. If the root zone of old bushes has risen significantly from the original level, you first need to mulch with peat, then straw, and then spruce branches.

If the place on your site is quite low, then before covering, prepare drainage grooves near the flower beds - constant humidity or ice on the leaves, as well as alternate freezing and thawing of the soil, pose a serious danger to chrysanthemums in winter. Therefore, if multi-layer coverings are used, they must be removed in time in the spring - most often chrysanthemums die due to damping off under excessively warm coverings.

Some gardeners, in order not to lose valuable varieties of chrysanthemums before sheltering for the winter at the end of September, separate part of the bush and store it in a container until spring.

Seeds
Cuttings
Queen cell
Dividing the bush

In autumn, when everything around is withering, you really want to enjoy the flowers. And such an opportunity is provided by flower beds at the dacha, planted with late-flowering plants. The bright accent of such a flower garden is the chrysanthemum. Despite the fact that garden chrysanthemums are very heat-loving, they bloom well in the fall. Moreover, they are not afraid of even slight frosts. This explains the fact that many summer residents decide to have one and decide on how to plant a chrysanthemum. It turns out that this is not difficult.

Chrysanthemums - planting and care in open ground

You need to choose a place for it that is well lit by the sun. At the same time, it must be reliably sheltered from the winds.

Before planting chrysanthemums, you need to take care of the soil composition of the flower garden. Heavy and dense soil should be lightened. To do this you need to use sand and organic fertilizers. If the soil is loose and well-permeable, the chrysanthemum bush will take root easily. And this will guarantee his successful wintering. Find out more ❀ how to grow chrysanthemums in the garden from seeds + what edges to use.

Caring for chrysanthemums in the garden consists of sufficient fertilizer. After watering, it is good to feed it with mullein infusion.

Phosphorus fertilizers enable the formation of large and strong leaves, as well as prolong flowering as much as possible.

The care that chrysanthemum flowers require is to protect them from pests. If aphids appear, then you need to fight them before the buds bloom. Because then it will be impossible to cope with this pest.

Plants may also be damaged by spider mites and meadow bugs. In any case, special pesticides must be used.

An important point in caring for chrysanthemums is their wintering. Preparations should begin just before the onset of frost. At this time, the perennial garden chrysanthemum is pruned. The land around the bush should be hilled up and treated with humanate. When frost sets in, cover with spruce branches.

Chrysanthemum multiflora planting and care

Chrysanthemum multiflora

This species is characterized by the spherical shape of the bush. The advantage of this plant is that it does not require special actions by formation, this is inherent in his genetics. Chrysanthemum multiflora is characterized by abundant flowering. Moreover, the shades are represented by the entire spectrum of the rainbow.

If a pot of multiflora chrysanthemum was purchased at the end of summer or autumn, then it should be left for the winter in a cool room. At this time, you just need to make sure that the soil does not dry out.

Garden pots from the cellar should be exposed to light at the end of April. Almost at the same time it can be planted in open ground. Multiflora chrysanthemums are planted in holes with fertilizer. The soil needs to be well watered. It is recommended to place the neighboring bush no closer than 60 cm.

In autumn, all branches should be cut off. This will allow you to get more shoots in the spring.

Korean chrysanthemum

She is a hybrid. Moreover different types Korean chrysanthemum differ in flowering period. They have different inflorescences with a diameter of up to 10 cm or more, as well as the height of the bush. Flowers can be reed or tubular. The coloring of the petals is very wide.

There are three groups of Korean chrysanthemums:

low-growing (up to 30 cm), which are characterized by early flowering, small roots and a dense bush, they are also called border;
medium-sized (up to 50 cm);
tall (up to 1 m), they have big bush and small flowers, chrysanthemums are characterized by late flowering.

Like other varieties, these chrysanthemums are perennial, planting and caring for them is no different from others. Sun, warmth and loose soil are the key to their successful flowering.

Bush chrysanthemums planting and care with shaping

These plants have a high growth rate. In one season, a cutting can develop into a full-fledged bush. And in order for it to have the correct and beautiful shape, it needs to be formed.

Pinching the tops of shoots should be done starting in early June. This process ends a month before flowering begins.

Plus, in the first year in a new place, it is necessary to regularly loosen the soil around the bush. This will encourage the development of strong roots. From them, in turn, underground shoots will begin to grow. They will form a denser bush.

How to plant chrysanthemums correctly?

To begin with, leave it until spring. It is then that she will have enough time to fully take root. This way she can adapt well to the winter.

If planting material was purchased in the form of rooted cuttings, then before replanting the chrysanthemum, you need to wait for the onset of warm weather. Namely, late May - early June. The entire lump of earth must be carefully removed from the pot and planted in the prepared hole.

Chrysanthemums will take root better in a new place if, after planting, they are watered with a preparation that promotes root formation.

If the pots with the plant were stored in the cellar, then before planting they need to be put outside for a week.

Chrysanthemums planting and care in autumn

It is better to immediately take cuttings purchased at this time of year to a cool room. If winters are characterized by severe frosts, then a necessary condition for how to grow a chrysanthemum healthy and beautiful will require digging it up and planting it in a spacious pot.

Replanting should be done with the onset of the first frost. The bush must be removed from the ground with a large lump of soil. It is necessary to take into account that the roots of the plant extend deep into the soil.

The chrysanthemum pot should be moved to a cool room and, when the leaves begin to wither, prune. About 15 cm should be left above the ground surface.

Inflorescences are baskets of small flowers of two types: central tubular, yellow, marginal flowers - reed flowers of a wide variety of colors. The fruit of a chrysanthemum is an achene.

Classification of chrysanthemums

All varieties of chrysanthemums can be divided according to flowering periods into:

Early bloomers - bloom at the end of August. These varieties are usually low-growing and dense bushes about 25-35 cm tall, used in borders.
Medium flowering - bloom in early September, mainly with an average height of bushes of 50-60 cm.
Late flowering - bloom at the end of September, beginning of October, mostly tall, up to 100 cm or more, require garter.

Chrysanthemums bloom for more than a month. Low-growing varieties, as a rule, have very decorative foliage, which allows the formation of multi-tiered flower beds that bloom from late summer to late autumn.

Place for planting garden chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemums grow best and produce the most flowers when planted in a sunny area. They need at least three hours of full sun per day.

They also require well-fertilized soil, enough moisture, but not too much. Chrysanthemums do not tolerate dry, peaty or sandy soil, which is poor in mineral composition and does not retain moisture. But they also cannot tolerate stagnation of water and dampness!

Ideally, they need light sandy loam soil, well seasoned with humus and organic matter. Like most garden flowers, chrysanthemums thrive in well-drained soil with plenty of organic matter, such as compost.

Landing

All components added to improve the soil must be mixed well. The fertile soil layer should be less than 40 cm.

If you have a plot in a lowland or on a slope, before filling the flower beds, add a layer of crushed stone drainage to the bottom of the trench.

Another important indicator of soil quality that you should pay attention to when planting chrysanthemums is acidity. Changes in acidity or alkalinity can seriously limit plant growth, weaken the root system and even lead to death. Chrysanthemums prefer an acidity of about 6.5, absolutely not lower than 6.2. To increase the pH of the soil, you need to lime the soil, and to lower it (on saline soil) add iron sulfate or aluminum sulfate.

Caring for chrysanthemums

How to water chrysanthemums

Feeding

It is best to feed chrysanthemums with a complete complex fertilizer, for example, with the NPK 5-10-10 formula, or even better with the NPK 5-10-5 formula:

If chrysanthemums are planted this spring, two feedings per season are sufficient.
If chrysanthemums were planted a year or two ago, feed them throughout the summer and once a month in the fall.

Since August only phosphorus fertilizer.

Chrysanthemum propagation

Old chrysanthemum bushes can be divided into several parts, leaving only the rather depleted middle.

Options for soil mixture for cuttings:

coarse river sand and universal peat soil (from the store) in equal parts
coarse river sand and vermiculite in equal parts
coarse river sand and sphagnum moss in equal parts

Keep the soil moderately moist, but not soggy. And be sure to keep it warm - for rooting you need a temperature of about 22-24°C and shade from direct sun.

The first watering can be carried out with a solution of the zircon preparation.

How to plant chrysanthemums in autumn

You can trim the above-ground part when the temperature reaches about +4 °C. If sub-zero temperatures are not expected on your balcony, then you don’t need to do anything else, just periodically - once a month or less often - water the plants a little, just enough so that the soil does not dry out completely.

If you have a warm greenhouse in your garden, then in February-March you can move the flowers there, water as needed - the soil should not be constantly damp or dry out, only moderate moisture.

You can store chrysanthemums in a cellar or basement in winter if they are well ventilated and there is no high humidity or fungus on the walls.

Formation of a chrysanthemum bush

Chrysanthemums in winter

At the end of autumn, when the foliage dies, cut off the entire above-ground part of the plants at a height of 15-20 cm from the ground.

The cold resistance of chrysanthemums varies among different varieties; some are very frost-resistant, and there are those that freeze out in central Russia and Siberia. If you buy seeds in a store or container seeds at a nursery, check the variety’s suitability for the climatic zone (can be indicated from 3 to 9).

Some gardeners, in order not to lose valuable varieties of chrysanthemums before sheltering for the winter at the end of September, separate part of the bush and store it in a container until spring.

It’s not for nothing that the chrysanthemum is called the queen of autumn, because these pretty flowers of bright colors decorate our gardens from September until the frosts.

There are a great many types and varieties of chrysanthemums, but what is noteworthy is that there is no single system for their classification. IN various countries they are divided into classes (in Germany and France there are 10, in the USA and Great Britain - 15). But one way or another, the beauty and grandeur of these noble flowers does not suffer from this - chrysanthemums have been and remain one of the most popular among lovers of autumn flowers.

Planting chrysanthemums

Choice suitable place for a chrysanthemum bush - one of the most important moments when landing. The bush should be located in a warm, sunny place, sheltered from the winds. This will guarantee rapid growth and branching, development of good bush shape and safe wintering.

This plant absolutely does not tolerate stagnation of moisture in the roots, so try to choose a planting site on a hill, if possible. The soil under chrysanthemums should be loose, fertile, air- and water-permeable. Soil acidity is closer to neutral; slightly acidic soils are also suitable. If the soil cover of your site is clay or sandy, then before planting chrysanthemums it should be improved with organic matter. The ideal fertilizer for this is humus or vermicompost; complex fertilizers are also useful.

Chrysanthemums should be planted in the spring, when the threat of return frosts has passed, or in the fall, at least two weeks before the onset of frost. For gardening work, choose a cloudy or rainy day. Prepare a hole or one common trench for each bush, where you place the seedlings at intervals of 30-50 cm. In order to speed up the rooting of the chrysanthemum, after planting, water the trench with Kornevin’s solution. After this, pinch the growing point of each bush, and then cover the seedlings with spunbond or other covering material. It should be removed when the seedlings begin to grow.

Caring for chrysanthemums in the garden

Chrysanthemum is not the most capricious flower; caring for it in the open ground still requires knowledge of some secrets.

So, for example, when the eighth leaf appears on the seedlings, the top of the plant and young side shoots should be pinched so that your chrysanthemum has a beautiful bush shape.

As for the main points of caring for perennial chrysanthemums, they are as follows:

abundant watering is required, and the water must be rain or settled, and it must be poured at the root - chrysanthemums do not like sprinkling;
after each watering, the soil under the bush needs to be loosened for better breathability;
and do not forget about removing weeds, which can choke the growth of chrysanthemums and make the plant weaker.

Separately, it should be said about fertilizing. There should be three of them per season. The chrysanthemum is fed for the first time 7-8 weeks after planting with nitrogen fertilizers (for example, ammonia nitrogen). This benefits the growth of green mass. Then, during the budding period, phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are used. They are convenient apply at the root the next day after watering or good rain. The third feeding will be the application of organic fertilizers (mullein, bird droppings). However, it is important not to overdo it, because otherwise the plant can simply be “burnt.”

By correctly planting chrysanthemums in the open ground and mastering how to care for them, you will become the happy owner of a “golden flower” (this is how the name of the flower is translated from Greek) in your autumn garden!

Chrysanthemum is a herbaceous, perennial or annual plant from the Asteraceae or Asteraceae family. It is very popular among many breeders - the creation of new varieties continues to this day, releasing more and more new forms and types onto the market.

The chrysanthemum itself can be perennial or annual, growing as a herbaceous plant or subshrub. Its leaves are varied in shape and size, arranged alternately, the color of which can vary from light green to dark.

Chrysanthemum flowers are small, collected in a basket, sometimes forming an inflorescence that is very large in size, varied in color, double or simple. It produces fruits from seeds, but, as a rule, propagation occurs more by cuttings or layering.

How to properly plant chrysanthemums in open ground

It is best to plant chrysanthemums in the ground on beds on a cloudy day, especially when there is light rain or immediately after it. At the same time, it is best to plant it without digging a hole, but by forming a trench, maintaining a distance of 35–45 cm - it all depends on the variety, as well as the type of chrysanthemum. After this, water it and pin it, removing it in in this case growth point - this will help to form a bush, and not drive it up.

Next, you should wrap it up - in this case, dry leaves or film are optimal in order to create a favorable climate for rooting and remove it only when the chrysanthemum itself has taken root and starts throwing out the first shoots.

Choosing a landing time

It is optimal to plant chrysanthemums only after spring frosts have passed - this is a period of time in the middle - end of May, after at least 5-6 days have passed since the frosts.

Site selection and soil preparation

When choosing a place, you should understand that it is very thermophilic, does not tolerate water retention in the hole, and therefore the optimal place for planting is open, elevated areas, with plenty of sun, but not shade.

Any variety of chrysanthemum is very demanding on the composition of the soil - for optimal growth, formation of the bush and the flowers themselves. In this case, the soil should be rich in nutrients - on loose, well-permeable soil, rich in nutrients, the chrysanthemum will feel very comfortable, delighting gardeners with its magnificent appearance and bright colors.

When the soil itself is not very fertile, very dense in texture, then just before planting it in open ground, a bucket of rotted manure or compost mass or peat is brought into the hole itself. Just don’t overdo it - with excessive moisture and the presence of fertilizer, the bush will grow intensively and will not knock out flowers, which will be detrimental to its appearance.

The optimal addition to the hole would also be chicken omelette - a little so as not to “burn” the root system, mixing it in equal proportions with coarse river sand. Speaking about the acidity of the soil - for it it is worth choosing neutral or slightly acidic areas, the pH of which varies from 5.5 to 7.0

Soil treatment and preparation

The soil itself must be carefully prepared before planting chrysanthemums. At the very beginning, it is worth loosening the soil, and if the soil is very dense in structure, add several buckets of peat and rotted leaves to the planting site, and thus making it looser and lighter.

To increase soil fertility the best option There is the introduction of the necessary fertilizers into the soil - this can be chicken droppings mixed with sand, diluted manure, or fertilizing the soil with mineral complexes. All this will ultimately create favorable conditions for the growth and flowering of chrysanthemums.

The process of planting in open ground

As noted earlier, it is optimal to plant a flower on a cloudy day, when it has rained the day before, or there is light rainfall on the day of gardening work itself.

It is best to plant it not in a hole, but by digging a trench - its level should not be higher than the growth point, so that in the future the plant will not die by rotting. The plant is carefully placed in the ground, the root system is leveled and sprinkled with soil, after which it is watered abundantly.

The planted plant should be wrapped in sawdust or leaves for a while, thereby insulating it from possible freezing, creating favorable growth conditions and mulching the space around it.

Reproduction

Chrysanthemums are propagated in most cases - vegetatively, by dividing the bush, layering and cuttings, since taking and sowing seeds for the most part does not retain their varietal characteristics. But in any case, whatever is chosen, it is worth considering certain points.

At the very beginning, if you plant or replant a chrysanthemum in the spring, you should do this after all the unexpected spring frosts have passed and the optimal time in this case is the middle - the end of May or the beginning of summer.

When it is planted in the fall, planting should be done at least before the 13th–15th of September, so that the chrysanthemum can take root, taking root before the cold weather.

If this was not done, if only because we didn’t have time, it will be enough to plant the rhizome in a wide but shallow pot the size of the root system and cut the upper part low enough.

After such manipulations, place the flowerpot in a dark, cool, but not cold place, with a temperature of 4–6 degrees Celsius, and store there until spring planting. Periodically, such a pot should be watered so that the plant simply does not dry out over the winter.

In such a homemade improvised flowerpot, the bush should be taken out into the sunlight at the end of winter, or if there is a greenhouse, planted there and watered frequently. At the end of March, having overwintered, it produces a mass of young shoots, which can later be used for cuttings and propagation by the vegetative method.

To propagate a chrysanthemum in this way, cut cuttings about 8–10 cm long, no more, after which they are planted in an ordinary box filled with either perlite or an earth mixture of coarse sand, deciduous land and humus in parts 2 to 1 to 1, respectively.

Freshly cut cuttings are planted, and their rooting takes place over the course of 3–4 weeks, after which they can be planted in a large container or, if possible, in a greenhouse.

Chrysanthemum care

Planting itself, as well as subsequent care of chrysanthemums, is not difficult, but at the same time it has its own rules, which both a novice gardener and a more experienced gardener should know and remember. In particular, the seedlings themselves, already planted in open ground and which have already thrown out 8 leaves - such shoots should be pinched so that the entire bush does not go up, but to the sides, so to speak, its bushiness increases.

For the same purpose, it is worth pinching the young shoots growing from the sides - this is how you can get a bush that is symmetrical in shape and quite thick and beautiful.

This method of forming a bush does not apply to large-flowering varieties - in such varieties, the side shoots should be completely removed, and they can be used for subsequent rooting.

At the same time, tall varieties, branches, should be supported, otherwise the bush itself will fall apart, break - it can be tied to tall, metal or wooden pegs, a mesh or a wire structure, i.e. to any supports that are not difficult to make from scrap materials.

Regarding watering, it is worth watering it very generously every time.– if there is a lack of water, the bush may become woody, and the flower itself will not be so beautiful, small and inconspicuous. For this optimal water It is considered to be collected rain moisture, or pre-settled, with the addition of a small pinch of ammonia or ammonium nitrate.

It is worth watering the plant at the root so that the water does not get on the foliage itself, and then, when the water is absorbed, you should loosen the soil around it and remove any weeds.

The soil for chrysanthemums should not be compact, but loose and well permeable to water, nutritious, rich in useful substances. Speaking about the acidity of the soil, it is worth choosing neutral or slightly acidic areas, the pH of which varies from 5.5 to 7.0. Otherwise, in dense, heavy soils, the plant dies, most of it rotting, or does not produce beautiful greenery and flowers.

Top dressing

The care itself also includes mandatory feeding in its technology - and in this regard it is worth remembering that during the entire growing season it is worth carrying out such manipulations at least 3 times.

The best option is a combination of mineral fertilizers and organic matter - with regard to mineral complexes, it is worth paying special attention to ammonia nitrogen, due to which the green part of the plant will grow, as well as phosphorus-potassium will help to form large and fragrant flowers and should be used during the formation and formation of the bud .

In relation to organic fertilizers– here the optimal option is ordinary rotted cow dung or diluted chicken droppings.

Fertilizers should be diluted before use and the bush itself should be fed the next day after rain or heavy watering - you should not feed the chrysanthemum on dry soil, but only after moistening it well.

The very first feeding should be done 7-8 weeks after planting, and it is worth saying that many experienced gardeners say that it is best to slightly underfeed rather than simply burn it with a concentrated solution.

Diseases and pests

Speaking of diseases, in the presence of thickets or in the absence of compliance with growing rules, it can be affected by fungal diseases. In this case, we can talk about such diseases as caused by a fungus:

verticillium wilt of a plant, when the fungus itself infects it, penetrating through the root system, affecting the leaves - the latter turn yellow and fall off.
powdery mildew, when the leaves and shoots themselves, the buds and the flowers themselves are affected - in this case they become covered with a whitish coating.
rust, in which the ground part of the chrysanthemum becomes covered with brown spots, the leaf turns yellow, and the stem itself dries out.
gray rot, when the plant becomes covered with brownish spots, which after some time become covered with fluff - it is this that causes the rotting and wilting of the chrysanthemum.

The fungus from the affected bush can be eliminated with preparations containing copper, which can successfully overcome septoria, as well as rust and rot. Also, Bordeaux mixture helps eliminate powdery mildew and gray rot from the plant, and soap emulsion and colloidal sulfur help eliminate rust.

If it is attacked by pests, most likely the chrysanthemum itself was attacked by aphids. It is this pest that first attacks the green part, settling on inside leaf or at the bottom of the bud. Aphids, as well as the larvae they lay, suck the juice from the chrysanthemum and, as a result, slow growth and flowering, falling leaves and buds.

If several leaves are affected by aphids, the pests should be destroyed by tearing off the leaves, but if the aphids have covered the plant itself quite densely, it is worth treating it entirely with actellik or actara, adding simple laundry soap to the mixture itself.

Also, the bush itself can be affected by the meadow bug - just like aphids, its larvae also feed on plant sap. As a result of the defeat, the leaves and buds fall off, which turn brown and become covered with spots, as well as the complete death of the entire plant. To eliminate the meadow bug and its larvae, the greens should be treated with a solution of simple baby shampoo - preparing it is simple, just add a tablespoon of shampoo to 10 liters of water.

In addition to aphids and bugs for chrysanthemums, ordinary garden snails and slugs also pose a lot of danger - they devour the greenery of the plant. In this case, you should not use harsh measures to combat slugs and snails - this can disrupt the ecosystem of the entire area with flowers, and they themselves perform an important function as orderlies.

It is best to attract birds to your site - they help in preventing slugs and snails, and also protect the bush itself with a small fence in order to prevent the living creatures from approaching the bush. An interesting option for fighting slugs and snails is to place saucers with beer in the bushes of plants and after a while simply collect a rich “harvest” around them.

Chrysanthemum transplant

According to the technology of growing in one place, the bush should not grow for more than 3 years - otherwise the plant will, so to speak, mope and be capricious, often get sick, and the leaves and flowers will become smaller. In this case, it is worth replanting it in the spring - and in this regard, you can divide the bush and plant the flower in this way, carefully digging it up and dividing the dense root system into parts with a sharp tool. Next, you should sprinkle the cut area with coal and plant it as described above.

The main autumn flowers are chrysanthemums; planting and caring for these flowers in open ground is not particularly difficult, but they require compliance with a number of conditions when growing, both in spring and autumn. Do not break the rules if you want to plant a flower from a bouquet or root a shoot, and to propagate the plant in the fall, read the basics. If you don’t know how to form a beautiful bush into a ball, then remember, you need pinching and pruning for the winter, or try to grow a special variety that will only need a single pinching...

Methods and timing of propagation of chrysanthemums

Seeds They are sown in open ground in May, and when the seedlings grow 10 cm, they are pinched. In autumn, chrysanthemums are already blooming
Cuttings- a very popular method of propagating chrysanthemums. You can grow a bush by cutting a cutting even from a bouquet. How to root a chrysanthemum shoot? A shoot about 6 cm long is rooted in soil consisting of sand and peat. The box covered with glass is kept in a cool place, no higher than +15°C. When the roots appear, the plants are planted in separate pots and then, with the end of frost, in open ground. If you purchased a cutting of the desired variety in the fall, do not plant it in the ground, but root it in a container and leave it in a cool room until spring
Queen cell- this is an overwintered rhizome of a chrysanthemum from which shoots will come; it can be purchased and planted in early spring
Dividing the bush- the only method of autumn planting of chrysanthemums, in which the plant is carefully dug up, the roots of the mother bush with shoots are divided into several copies with pruners and planted. This procedure should be carried out every two years to rejuvenate the plant.

Chrysanthemums, planting in spring and autumn

Please note that if you decide to grow chrysanthemums, planting and care in open ground differ in spring and autumn - when planting in spring, queen cells and cuttings take root better, but in autumn you can choose a flowering bush and not be mistaken with its appearance.

During very frosty winters, choose Korean small-flowered hybrids of chrysanthemums, which are nicknamed oak - this species unites many varieties, zoned in the middle zone and the Moscow region. Large-flowered Indian chrysanthemums are tall - they grow up to a meter, and sometimes up to one and a half, but they are afraid of cold weather and freeze out easily.

When planting in autumn, the chrysanthemum bush must be watered abundantly; this will compact the soil, eliminating voids in it, due to which the roots can freeze. In addition, the flowers are cut off and a third of the stems are left so that the nutrients go to the development of the root system.

Chrysanthemums, care - watering, fertilizing, pruning, shelter

In spring, chrysanthemums need nitrogen fertilizing for rapid growth; this can be done 2-3 weeks after planting. In the second half of summer, with the beginning of chrysanthemum budding, phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are applied to ensure lush flowering and strengthen the plants before wintering. In the fall, you can feed the flowers a little with organic matter. Tall varieties need to be tied up, as their fragile stems can break.

The beginning of frost is a signal that it is time to leave for the winter. The trunks of chrysanthemums are cut off in late autumn, leaving 10-centimeter stumps and insulated with sawdust or leaves. The most delicate varieties are wrapped with a covering material on top and something flat is placed on top - for example, a plywood board - to protect them from moisture. Some gardeners dig up the roots and store them in a dark, cold cellar in winter to ensure the preservation of the variety.

How to create spherical chrysanthemum bushes

For flowers such as chrysanthemums, planting and caring in open ground is not all that is needed, and simple processing will allow you to create real masterpieces from them.

Multiflora loves soil rich in fertilizers; when planting, add more humus and wood ash to the hole. If you grow it in a pot, you can prepare the soil from 30% humus and 20% sand, the remaining 50% is turf soil.

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Among the colossal variety of garden plants, including flower stalks, there is enough high place occupied by a magnificent perennial garden chrysanthemum, which is also called the queen of autumn. This beautiful, tart-smelling flower opens its buds at the end of August, and pleases us until the frosts, if we provide it with appropriate and regular care, showing patience and diligence. These flowers are completely unpretentious; they do not need constant supervision, however proper care garden chrysanthemum implies strict implementation of all recommendations, although there are not many of them. If you do everything correctly, the plant will delight you for a long time with its variety of colors and shapes, from the end of summer until the winter snowfalls.

Persistent and hardy chrysanthemums: growing and caring for the garden

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You need to understand that the chrysanthemum, which we will discuss in the garden today, was brought to us a long time ago from the East. The ancient Chinese and Japanese attached some mystical meaning to this flower; it was considered a symbol of the sun, joy and optimism. Indeed, how can one not believe the legends, having at least once seen the magnificent pom-poms of assorted buds, delighting with their bitter-tart smell, as well as long flowering. Among experienced flower growers, as well as professional breeders, it is customary to divide all types and types of chrysanthemums into several main subcategories to simplify the choice suitable flower for your own plot.

Worth knowing

There is simply a huge number of different varieties of chrysanthemums, which can differ not only in color, but also in the size of the inflorescences, the height of the bushes, and so on. For example, there are types that are intended exclusively for cutting and making bouquets. They bloom quite early, but also stop flowering quite quickly.

Chrysanthemums of simple form, which are most often found in our gardens and flower beds.
Figured and double chrysanthemums are already more “civilized” varieties, bred artificially.
Large-flowered plants that are best suited for a wide variety of compositions and bouquets.

Chrysanthemum varieties for planting and care in open ground: let's take into account the nuances

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It is very important to understand that there are no clear criteria that delimit the color of the varieties of one or another type of chrysanthemum. These amazing flowers really amaze with their diverse palette, so that even the most meticulous gardener will definitely choose something for himself, just the one he has been dreaming about for a long time. Caring for chrysanthemums of various varieties and types in the garden is no different, so you don’t have to worry that something will be done wrong, the main thing is to carry out all the manipulations with the plant on time, and then you can expect wild flowering in the fall.

Most often, gardeners give preference to garden bush chrysanthemums, which are perfect for landscape design any household plot.
An excellent option for your garden will also be feathery terry varieties, which have petals so densely planted that their shape most closely resembles small balls.
The greatest demand on the market is for pompom chrysanthemums, the flowers of which have perfect shape ball. They are quite large, and the variety of colors will allow you to anticipate any desires.
The unusual shape of the tubular petals also attract attention with bristle-shaped chrysanthemums, which simply cannot be ignored.
The anemone-like varieties of these flowers got their name from their resemblance to anemones, and it will not be at all difficult to recognize them; they have a wreath of petals and a convex center. The smell of such delicate flowers is very strong and can be heard until frost, which is why amateur gardeners especially love them.
More rare varieties include spoon-shaped chrysanthemums, which received their name not by chance. The fact is that their petals resemble a teaspoon in shape, they are beautiful and unusual.

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Ordinary flowers, that is, simple flowers, as well as semi-double varieties, are excellent for planting and caring for chrysanthemums in the country. Outwardly, they may slightly resemble a daisy, which gives them an unobtrusive classic charm and incredible charm.

The best garden chrysanthemums: planting and care in the garden or flowerbed

First of all, you need to understand that caring for garden chrysanthemums begins with planting, since it requires a special place, as well as soil. It is best to choose a slightly elevated place where water will definitely not accumulate. The soil should be loose, not clogged, with good drainage capabilities. In addition, the place must be sunny or slightly darkened, but never shady, otherwise your flowers will stupidly stretch their stems upward, and flowers may not appear on them at all.

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For planting, it is better to buy special soil, which, by definition, will be quite hygroscopic and also loose. You can pre-mix the soil with peat and gravel, the main thing here is not to overdo it, so that the nutrients for the flower remain in it, because this, after all, is far from a cactus, which only needs to be watered once every six months.
Chrysanthemum does not like excessive watering, because the roots can rot. But excessive drying should also never be allowed. This flower has superficial view root system, and if there is a lack of moisture, it will first become dry, its leaves will turn yellow and curl, and subsequently the plant may even die.
For transplanting and planting, it is best to choose rainy or even cloudy weather to make it easier for the plant to withstand stress.
The hole is made from twenty-five to forty centimeters, depending on the size of the rhizome, it is spilled generously with pre-settled water, after which drainage is laid on the bottom. For example, washed and coarse river sand is perfect.

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After planting, the chrysanthemum should only be lightly sprinkled with soil; there is no need to deepen it excessively, since the soil must be compacted with great care. For tall varieties it is better to immediately provide support in the form garden trellis, or even just a buried beautiful twig. It is necessary to carry out pinching immediately after planting, and then, after about fifteen twenty days. This will not only allow the correct shape of the chrysanthemum crown to be formed, but will also lead to denser growth of young shoots with inflorescences. After the plant has completely taken root, all that remains is to figure out how to care for the garden chrysanthemum so that it will delight you for a long time with fragrant pom-poms of flowers.

After planting chrysanthemums, it makes sense to shade them somewhat and protect them from the bright sun, since the plant is already under stress. The easiest way to do this is with the help of a special garden non-woven material. Here you need to strictly ensure that your “roof” does not touch the stems and leaves, as this negatively affects overall growth. The easiest way is to build a kind of box frames from thin planks, upholstering them with appropriate fabric.

Methodically and carefully: how to care for chrysanthemums in the garden

In order for you to grow a beautiful decorative chrysanthemum in your garden, you need to provide it with appropriate care, and you don’t need to think that only experienced gardeners can do this. These flowers are very unpretentious, as already mentioned, so even those who have never even grown radishes before can cope with cultivation. The main catch may lie in watering, which should be regular, but never excessive, as this will simply destroy your flowers. A large number of moisture can lead to rotting of the roots, but a lack of moisture can lead to woodiness of the stems, and the chrysanthemum will no longer be so beautiful and attractive.

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Regularly, as needed, but at least once every two weeks, you need to thoroughly loosen the soil near the rhizome. At the same time, you need to ensure that there are no holes or holes left in which water can accumulate, which is detrimental to the chrysanthemum.
Feed the flowers during flowering by diluting mullein one to ten with water. Such procedures can be carried out weekly. Phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are ideal for stimulating flowering, and the notorious phosphates and nitrogen-containing compounds are ideal for foliage growth.
It is worth remembering that fertilizers and fertilizing should never get on the leaves and flowers, since in this way you can only get unsightly and dangerous burns for the plant. Among other things, it is better to underfeed a chrysanthemum than to overfeed it; this is a law that should be strictly observed.

Reproduction and transplantation of chrysanthemums in the garden: how to care for them correctly

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Please note that all perennial plants must be propagated exclusively by dividing the rhizome, as well as by cuttings. Seeds can be grown, but no one can guarantee that they will retain varietal characteristics. In most cases, when growing chrysanthemums from seeds, selection must begin from the very beginning. Transplantation and propagation of such beautiful flowers is worthwhile late spring or in early summer, while the plant has not yet put out buds and is not ready to waste energy on flowering.

However, circumstances may develop in such a way that planting material appears closer to autumn, which confuses novice gardeners. Before the beginning, or at least until mid-September, flowers can still be germinated; if you have time, they will take root and overwinter quite easily. However, it is better not to leave late seedlings in open ground, but to plant them in a wide, but not deep pot, and then place them in a place where the temperature will not fall below five degrees Celsius, but will not rise higher either. The plant will need to be watered regularly, but not too much.

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At the end of winter, if possible, the plants can be moved and planted in a greenhouse or greenhouse, where they will need to be watered much more often and more abundantly than in winter in order to convey to them that it is time to start growing. However, that’s not all; it’s also worth finally mentioning diseases and pests from which you will have to protect and protect your flowers, because they simply have no other protection.

Ticks and aphids cannot tolerate high humidity; if you water regularly, you can easily get rid of this scourge. It is quite possible that even spraying the stems and flowers will help, the main thing is that the water is clean, soft and settled.
Caterpillars, as well as leaf rollers and snails, do not tolerate drugs such as “Fitovermi”, “Ratibor”, “Aktara” and others; it is better to consult and find out more thoroughly in a specialized store.
Inspect stems, plants and flowers as often as possible to detect threats immediately and eliminate them promptly. Damaged parts of plants, leaves, stems or flowers should be immediately removed and taken away from the site, and then closely monitor the plants.

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It turns out that caring for a garden chrysanthemum does not imply anything complicated or unrealistic at all, and even an absolute beginner can cope with such a task. The main thing here is attentiveness and consistency of steps, and the flower will do the rest itself and will delight you for a long time with its magnificent appearance and wonderful aroma.

The garden arsenal has many perennials, tuberous and bulbous flowers that can become the stars of the autumn garden. But even today, magnificent chrysanthemums remain the main autumn favorites. Capricious or more modest and hardy, with a special palette, lush inflorescences and inimitable seasonality, chrysanthemums are an integral part of the big autumn show. They are not so easy to grow, and timely care is the key to success. But these plants are worth not forgetting about.

Chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum) is one of the largest genera among herbaceous perennials and subshrubs. Previously, more than two hundred species were distinguished among chrysanthemums, but today many plants have been transferred to the genus of leucanthemums, pyrethrums, tansy and even leucanthemella. There is so much confusion with the classification that it is not easy for even experienced flower growers to understand. But externally, chrysanthemums are always easily recognizable. Regardless of the species and even whether the plants are grown as annuals or perennials, potted or in soil, chrysanthemums remain special stars.

The legendary chrysanthemums won universal love several thousand years ago. And although they have changed significantly since the days of imperial honors, offering today their extraordinary variety, their popularity has never changed. Herbaceous and semi-shrub, perennial and annual, chrysanthemums always have rigid, straight shoots with alternate leaves. The leaves of chrysanthemums vary in size and shape, with dissected leaves or simple ones, in their jaggedness, wholeness or notched edges, the greenery of chrysanthemums also varies. But the dark, rich green color, as if muted to emphasize the brightness of the lush inflorescences, is an invariable feature of chrysanthemums. The flowers of chrysanthemums are small, reed and tubular, forming a standard inflorescence-basket, differing only in the size, shape of the reed flowers and their single-row or multi-row arrangement. But both simple and varying degrees of terry chrysanthemums are easily recognized and always look inimitable.

Indian chrysanthemums, which are grown mainly as container beauties, Korean oak chrysanthemums that look like flowering pillows, and rarer and less winter-hardy varieties are distinguished by fairly strict soil requirements and different preferences for, if not always too complex, but certainly regular care. These plants bloom spectacularly only if they are well cared for.

The right conditions for simple chrysanthemum care

You can enjoy chrysanthemums without making special efforts and without encountering unpleasant problems only if you select optimal conditions. After all, chrysanthemums are still quite capricious crops. They will not grow or bloom in any soil, in any place.

Chrysanthemums are light-loving crops, and only brightly lit areas are selected for them. They are not afraid of drafts and winds, they feel good in open areas, but in such places there may be problems with lodging of shoots and falling apart, growth and development of bushes, so it is always better to choose protected areas.

Chrysanthemums will not grow in low areas, with the risk of waterlogging or partial waterlogging of the soil during prolonged rains. Therefore, the best strategy is to choose elevated areas for these autumn stars or to provide drainage to create more suitable conditions for them.

Chrysanthemums growing in open ground prefer loamy soils with high nutritional value. The soil is too light, or, conversely, clayey, before planting, you can correct it, but it is better to carry out such treatment in advance. Humus, compost, peat are added to the soil, and sand is also added for heavy soils. Before planting, the soil at the growing site is dug up deeply, adding an additional portion of organic and complete mineral fertilizers, planting them deep enough. For container chrysanthemums, high-quality, water-permeable, nutritious soil mixtures containing organic fertilizers (optimally humus) are used. The requirements for soil reaction are not the same for chrysanthemums. Most species thrive in neutral soil, but Korean chrysanthemum loves slightly acidic substrates, and keeled chrysanthemum loves alkaline ones.

Chrysanthemums tolerate transplantation well even in bloom. The main key to success is preliminary preparation soils with general improvement for at least a month and additional fertilization for several days.

Chrysanthemum requirements for humidity and watering

Chrysanthemums grown in open soil are so afraid of getting wet and waterlogged that it is better not to water them at all than to overdo it: even during periods of prolonged drought, this magnificent plant can do without watering. True, this is not how to achieve spectacular and lush flowering. Therefore, chrysanthemums are watered regularly, but very carefully, constantly checking the condition of the soil and the plants themselves.

Typically, plants need systemic watering not during flowering, but during the stage of active growth and preparation for the main show. Once flowering begins, watering can be stopped, because the risks from this will be much greater than the positive impact.

For chrysanthemums, frequent but not too abundant maintenance water procedures are carried out. Water chrysanthemums with warm water, carefully, without soaking the leaves or pouring water into the base of the bush. You should also pay attention to the characteristics of the water: soft rather than hard water is more suitable for chrysanthemums.

Of course, all chrysanthemums grown in containers, flower beds and pots need the same careful but systematic watering. The soil moisture for such plants should be light; the substrate is allowed to dry in the top and even partially in the middle layer between these procedures.

Pruning and shaping chrysanthemums

In order for chrysanthemums to form thick, compact bushes, the shoots of the plant can be pinched or the tops slightly shortened, forming the plant itself at your discretion. For small-flowered chrysanthemums, pinching is traditionally carried out in the first half of June. Usually, on any chrysanthemum, pinching twice is preferable - first the main ones, and then the side shoots formed after it. Regardless of the type of chrysanthemum, you should not carry out pinching on this plant.

Regular removal of fading flowers allows you to prolong flowering and keep the bushes neat and attractive. Also on chrysanthemums, damaged, dry or overly dirty leaves should be removed in a timely manner. Some gardeners recommend removing the oldest leaves to reduce the likelihood of infection and resulting problems.

If the chrysanthemums are tall, in order to avoid breaking off rather fragile shoots, it is better to install supports in a timely manner and begin tying them up as the bushes grow.

For the winter, bushes of perennial chrysanthemums are pruned in front of the shelter. The plant does not need to be cut down to soil level - the bushes are usually shortened to stumps about 10 cm high.

Loosening the soil

Chrysanthemums can be mulched, stabilizing the soil and reducing the number of procedures for loosening it. But more often, a standard approach is used for chrysanthemums - while removing weeds, loosening the soil and not creating a layer of mulch. For chrysanthemums, aeration should be carried out to a shallow depth, trying to avoid the risk of contact with the roots.

The best option is to combine loosening during the period of active growth with mulching during flowering. Loosening is carried out in the spring and early summer, and then instead they create a layer of mulch 6-8 cm high, which is stored until next spring. To mulch chrysanthemums, you can use humus, peat and other materials.

The soil for potted chrysanthemums is loosened 2-3 times during the summer.

Feeding for chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemums need regular feeding. Chrysanthemums growing in pots or containers, as well as annual chrysanthemums, can be fed either like ordinary annual chrysanthemums with frequent feeding once every 2-3 weeks, or in the same way as perennial species.

The traditional feeding strategy includes three procedures:

The first feeding is carried out in the spring or during the period of active growth, but always before budding begins. Full mineral fertilizers are applied to the plant with twice the increased content nitrogen or use one portion of nitrogen and complex mixtures.
The second feeding is carried out at the budding stage. For it, you can use both potassium-phosphorus and complete mineral fertilizers or special drugs for flowering plants.
The third feeding is carried out after the start of flowering, approximately in the middle of this phase or 2-3 weeks after the first flowers bloom. For this feeding, special fertilizers for flowering plants or potassium-phosphorus mixtures are used.

In addition to basic fertilizing, chrysanthemums respond well to treatments with growth stimulants. Before the buds begin to swell, you can spray with an accelerator solution or, at the budding stage, add the preparations to the water for irrigation in the proportion specified by the manufacturers.

For chrysanthemums, some of the fertilizing can be replaced with solutions of organic fertilizers.

When applying fertilizing, it is important to avoid soaking even lower leaves, contact with water drops.

Chrysanthemum rejuvenation

It is believed that garden chrysanthemums should be replanted every 3-4 years to prevent the flowers from shrinking and problems with the health of the bush. Transplantation is carried out in the spring, combining it with division, carefully, trying to minimize damage to the roots.

Wintering chrysanthemums

For the winter, perennial chrysanthemums need protection. For chrysanthemums, the method of mulching the soil and hilling with dry leaves or sawdust is most often combined. In November, at the beginning of the month, when the night temperature stabilizes, chrysanthemum bushes are pruned. If mulching has not been created in the summer, the soil is covered with a layer of traditional mulch, and a layer of leaves or other dry materials 20 to 30 cm high is placed on top of it.

If you are growing a variety with low frost resistance, or have planted chrysanthemums with characteristics unknown to you in the ground, then the plants are transferred to pots for the winter. The leaves are removed from them and, together with a lump of earth, transferred to containers and boxes. Chrysanthemums should be stored in winter at a temperature of about 5 degrees Celsius. The temperature is increased, and the plants are brought out into the light when the shoots begin to grow, at the same time starting to lightly water the bushes. Chrysanthemums are planted back into the soil as soon as the weather permits.

If the plant continues to bloom during the first autumn frosts, then you need to protect the bushes in advance nonwoven materials or film to protect inflorescences and shoots from damage and maintain decorativeness.

Pest and disease control

Chrysanthemums can hardly be called hardy crops. Pests and diseases often appear on them, even under seemingly optimal conditions. Much of it all depends on luck and weather.

Most often, gray rot, mold and powdery mildew occur on perennial chrysanthemums. Diseases must be controlled with systemic fungicides.

Nematodes also cause problems for many potted or varietal chrysanthemums, which can only be combated by replanting with division or destruction of plants, and in the garden - with subsequent refusal to grow chrysanthemums for 2-3 years in the affected area.

Snails, slugs, mites, aphids and even earwigs love the greenery of chrysanthemums. To protect against slugs, it is better to take timely measures preventive measures. But you should fight insects immediately with insecticides.