How to install a vapor barrier when insulating a ceiling. Let's figure out which side to put the vapor barrier on different surfaces. How to install vapor barrier correctly

01.11.2019

A vapor barrier is a layer that protects insulation or building structures from the penetration of wet steam, which in turn leads to the accumulation of condensation on them, loss of beneficial properties and rotting under the influence of moisture. To create a vapor barrier, completely impermeable double-sided or having one correct work surface films and canvases. It is extremely important to determine exactly which side to place the vapor barrier on the insulation; the error may at this stage provokes accelerated destruction of building materials and significant financial costs. The main guideline is the manufacturer's instructions, but often this document is not available upon purchase; the choice is made based on the type of vapor barrier film and installation conditions.

For ordinary or double-sided reinforced polyethylene, this problem is not relevant; in other cases, the working surface is a vapor-impermeable surface. Most often, the vapor barrier is laid with the smooth side facing the insulation, and the protected side facing the source of steam penetration. Depending on the type of materials it is:

Laminate on cardboard (it is not recommended to place it on critical objects).
Reflective side of foil and aluminum roll coverings.
A fleecy or rough surface of antioxidant films coated with viscose or cellulose.
The vapor-tight side of the membranes is usually brighter.

Installation on different surfaces

1. Laying a vapor barrier on the floor.

Protection from steam and moisture is required when insulating floors or horizontal planes, or assembling timber structures. Reflective films that return heat to the house are considered optimal for flooring. When constructing or repairing the first floors, the insulation is protected with a layer of waterproofing, and on top - with rolled vapor barrier materials, laid overlapping (from 10 cm and above) with sizing with metallized tape. The situation is slightly different when arranging attic floors and interfloor ceilings: films are turned with the impermeable side down to protect against steam penetrating through logs or slabs.

2. Vapor barrier of ceiling structures.

Most often, the need to close the ceiling occurs in baths, saunas, kitchens, showers and other structures with high humidity. The greater the volume of vapors released and the higher their temperature, the more reliable vapor barrier is required from them. To protect steam room ceilings, dense aluminum, lavsan and antioxidant vapor barrier materials are well suited for living rooms- the same, plus regular penofol. A prerequisite is an overlap of at least 10-15 cm and sealing of the joints; for reliability, the vapor barrier is fixed to the ceiling with a grid or staples. IN in this case the reflective or vapor-tight side is directed exclusively into the room.

3. Vertical structures.

Installation of a vapor barrier when insulating walls is necessary when: using fiber and cotton insulation, erecting frame wall panels, arrangement of ventilated facades, in the latter case it also performs the functions of wind protection. In all the points mentioned, it is not recommended to choose completely impermeable films; the insulation must breathe, the best option Diffusion and superdiffusion membranes are considered to be permeable to air, but not to moisture or steam. For exterior work, the vapor barrier is laid with the smooth side facing the mineral wool or other insulation on the walls, and the rough side facing the street. The film or canvas should not sag, but excessive tension is also unacceptable. On domestic vertical walls they are held in place by staples or upholstery with thin strips, the vapor-tight side facing the room.

4. Roof vapor barrier.

A vapor barrier is a mandatory layer when laying roofing pie. It prevents the accumulation of condensation in the inner insulating layer and protects the rafters from fungus. The vapor barrier requires the greatest possible tightness, preference is given to antioxidant and reflective types, the side impenetrable to vapor is directed inward attic space. Overlap - from 15 cm, as well as gluing joints and seams. An important condition is the need to seal vapor barrier materials adjacent to vertical structures.

5. Other applications.

A vapor barrier is also needed for insulation basements and balconies (areas in contact with cold external surfaces. For basement and underground areas, membrane films are considered the best; the walls and ceiling of the basement must breathe, the floors are insulated on the ground side. For the installation of vapor barriers when insulating balconies and loggias, preference is given to foamed polyethylene with a reflective side, directed into the apartment. This is almost the only case when materials are placed end-to-end, and not overlapping, but sealed. neighboring plots still required.

Possible mistakes

In addition to choosing the wrong side, violations of technology include:

1. Lack of overlaps or insufficient insulation of joints.

2. Pull thin films, especially on structures exposed to temperature changes, this leads to their rupture. But excessive sagging is also not required.

3. Lack of ventilation gaps for evaporation of condensate from the vapor-tight side of the film ( shining example errors - installation internal lining directly onto the bottom layer of the roofing pie).

Before laying a vapor barrier, you should calculate it required quantity. Usage different types undesirable, although there are no clear standards in this case. A common mistake is to buy rolls strictly according to the area of the working surfaces without a 15% margin for overlaps and trivial damage.

There is only one option when it is not necessary to install a vapor barrier - when building a house from wooden beams, but this exception does not apply to absorbent insulating materials and floors; they always need protection. Work is carried out in warm weather and, if possible, dry time years, films are protected from getting wet in every possible way. An important condition is a tight connection of the vapor barrier to the insulation (ventilation gaps remain on the outer, reflective and impenetrable side), voids and sagging are unacceptable. All surfaces must be clean, grease-free and dry.

If you are in doubt about the correctness of the decision regarding which side to lay the vapor barrier against the insulation, you should read the instructions again. Reflective and rough planes are easy to determine, with membranes it is more difficult. Typically, the side facing down when unrolling the roll is considered to be the inside side. Experts advise paying attention to the coloring: more light shades observed at the sides adjacent to the insulation. But there is a variety in which it is the matte (usually fabric) surface that is vapor-tight. If this is not enough to identify the desired properties, then the canvas or film is rolled out a little on the floor, the tight-fitting side of the material will be the inner one.

Ensuring a reliable level of vapor barrier in the house is the key to maintaining a stable level of air humidity in relation to the temperature outside. Vapor barrier, unlike insulation, does not easily maintain temperature, but protects the room from exposure to steam and condensation. Many people, when they start installing insulation and vapor barriers, wonder which side to lay the vapor barrier so that it works properly.

The question of which side to lay thermal insulation correctly is very important when preparing work. To understand which side you need to lay the vapor barrier film on the surface, evaluate the entire process of laying the walls, including the installation of insulation. And only then will it be clear which side, where, what needs to be put.

General description of the vapor barrier process

Prepare the base so that it is dry and clean by first coating it with primer. The metal surface should be cleaned of grease. A vapor barrier must be installed on the roof immediately.

On the floor and walls lay the insulation first, then waterproofing, and only then - vapor barrier material, and the film should not be stretched too tightly and should not hang down.

Vapor barrier has the following advantages:

moisture evaporates faster;
regulation of the room microclimate along with insulation;
protection against fungi and mold;
increasing the service life of building materials.

Installation of vapor barrier materials is carried out in accordance with certain rules. To protect the insulation, vapor barrier material must be placed on inside the room between the thermal insulation layer and internal lining. Also, the correct installation of vapor barrier depends on what material you use.

So, the principle of vapor barrier operation is as follows:

To install a vapor barrier, regardless of the material used, materials such as:

wooden laths;
metallic profile;
construction stapler;
self-tapping screws;
metal scissors;
double-sided tape;
regular or construction tape.

Classification of vapor barrier materials

The material used for vapor barrier must be durable, have low thermal conductivity and be fire resistant. Universal material for this purpose no, materials such as are used for vapor barrier:

Vapor barrier technology

The algorithm for installing a vapor barrier looks like this:

How to properly install vapor barrier on the ceiling

The ceiling, roof, floor and walls are subject to vapor barrier. Let's start by describing the process of laying vapor barrier materials on the ceiling.

The ceiling needs a vapor barrier due to protection from negative impact water vapor that is formed due to high humidity in the room. Household needs such as washing, bathing, cleaning, cooking and much more contribute to an increase in indoor humidity.

Released as a result of these processes warm air goes upstairs and wants to go outside, but bumps into the ceiling. A vapor barrier will increase the service life of roofing materials; it will also minimize the likelihood of mold and mildew in the attic. In addition, the ceiling will become more fire resistant.

To install a vapor barrier on the ceiling, you need roll material attach to draft ceiling surface and press metal profile or lathing. When you start rolling out the rolls, stripes will appear, butt them together with an overlap of 10–15 cm. To seal the joints, use special self-adhesive tapes.

How to perform a vapor barrier on the floor, roof and walls

It is necessary to insulate the floor from steam, first of all, on the first floors above the basements, as well as in baths and saunas. The material is laid after installing the insulation and waterproofing material. Film needed don't pull too hard, but also not to allow it to sag. Then overlap it double-sided tape or special staples.

Please note that the vapor barrier must be laid in two layers, on the bottom and outside of the insulation, as well as on top of it.

For vapor barrier in large rooms you need to use liquid rubber from bitumen. It is applied manually or using a compressor. When it dries, an elastic film of rubber appears in its place, impervious to moisture.

And as a vapor barrier for roofing, it is best to use double-sided diffuse membrane. It should be installed with internal and outside, it is necessary to place the membrane on itself thermal insulation material no gaps. Bitumen can also be used, which is laid in rolls on top of the roof and secured with counter battens.

Equipping walls with vapor barriers is largely similar. The material must be attached to the wall along its perimeter with a stapler, and each panel must overlap the other by 15 cm; they must be glued together with construction tape. Thin slats are laid on top.

Sheet material is mounted on a frame made of metal or wood. The barrier is secured with self-tapping screws, and the joints are sealed with adhesive tape. On the outside, thermal insulation works before installing the insulation, creating together with it subsequently three-layer protection system.

So, as you can see, installing a vapor barrier is not as difficult as it might initially seem. Thanks to it, you will protect your premises from moisture and extend the life of building materials.

Until recently, the only type of vapor barrier was glassine. They cut it, attached it, secured it - that's all! And only a few decades ago a more convenient polyethylene film, and on its basis more complex and reliable materials began to be manufactured. Yes, modern options They please not only with their strength characteristics, but also with their resistance to changes in temperature and ultraviolet radiation, and with their versatility. But, at the same time, they are upset by the complicated instructions for their use: they should be connected along a clearly defined line, and only special tape should be used, and - most importantly! – the installation side must be chosen correctly.

Therefore, it is not surprising how often you can find panicky questions on the Internet about how and which side to lay the vapor barrier to the insulation, and what to do if the sides are mixed up? Will it really be necessary to disassemble the entire structure? We can assure you: you won’t have to. Let’s take a closer look at determining which side is “correct” - you will be very surprised!

What is the essence of roof vapor barrier?

Protecting insulation from moisture is one of the most important problems of thermal insulation, and we will now tell you why.

Water itself is an excellent conductor of heat, because it is used in heating and cooling systems for a reason. And, if the roof insulation is not sufficiently protected from steam from the room, then this will not end well. Even in the warm season, you will not know about the presence of a problem, because... such steam will easily disappear due to heat and good ventilation. And in hot countries where there is no subzero temperature, they don’t think about vapor barrier of insulation at all, because the problem is quietly solved on its own. But in Russian latitudes, due to temperature differences in the cold season, steam rises and penetrates the insulation, concentrating in the form of water when it meets the so-called “dew point”.

Wherein upper layer the insulation in the roofing pie freezes and creates yet another condition for getting wet from the inside. The effectiveness of the insulation itself is significantly reduced, and the changed structure promotes the development of fungus and corrosion. Moreover, when large quantities moisture can even seep back into the room and thereby damage the interior decoration. This is exactly what a vapor barrier is for.

And in order to understand how to properly install a vapor barrier, you first need to understand the structure itself. Thus, the insulation is protected on both sides by completely different films that perform opposite tasks. Below, on the side of the living room, a vapor barrier is installed that will not allow steam to pass through, and on top - a vapor-permeable membrane, which, on the contrary, will release excess steam from the insulation, if it is “wadded”, and will protect it from roof leaks:

But where is the logic, you ask? How can steam get into the insulation if there is a vapor barrier in front of it? In fact, no film or membrane protects 100%, and there are still poorly glued joints and other construction errors. And therefore some minimal amount the steam will still be in the insulation, and it is important to properly remove the steam outside without harm:

Look carefully at the diagram: do you see where condensation appears in a well-designed roof? That's right, not from the side of the room, but quite a bit from the side of the roof, on that side of the insulation, and it is easily removed by a windproof anti-condensation film or membrane. But condensation should not appear on the vapor barrier, and no rough side of it can cope with it, because... it has a different structure, and we will now prove it to you.

Types of vapor barriers: A, B, C and D

To understand which side the vapor barrier should be laid and why, for example, both sides suddenly turned out to be smooth, you must first determine its type. After all, not every species has two different sides!

Type A insulation: only for steam outlet on the other side

For example, type A cannot be used as a roof vapor barrier because eventually all the vapors will end up in the insulation. After all the main task such isolation - just to provide them with unhindered passage, but not to let rainwater on the other side.

This type of insulation is used in roofs with an angle of inclination of 35° or more, so that water droplets can easily roll off and evaporate (and it helps them evaporate ventilation gap between such insulation and insulation).

Vapor barrier B: classic double-sided installation

But B is a real vapor barrier material. Vapor barrier B has a two-layer structure that allows you to avoid condensation, due to the fact that moisture is absorbed into its fibers in the morning and disappears during the day.

That is why type B vapor barriers are always placed with the smooth side facing the insulation (film side), and the rough side facing outwards. Vapor barrier B is used only in insulated roofs, because For an uninsulated one, its strength is too low.

Type C membrane: for enhanced protection against water vapor

Type C vapor barrier is a two-layer membrane of high density. It differs significantly from type B in the thickness of the vapor barrier film layer. It is used in the same place as type B vapor barrier, but in itself is more durable.

Additionally, such a vapor barrier is used in non-insulated roofing to protect wooden elements attic floor and in flat roofs to enhance thermal insulation protection. Vapor barrier C should also be installed with the rough side facing the inside of the room.

Polypropylene insulation D: for heavy loads

The new-fashioned vapor barrier type D is an especially durable polypropylene fabric, one of which has a laminate coating on one side. This can withstand significant mechanical loads. It is used not only for insulating attic floors as a waterproofing layer, but also in insulated roofing to protect it from leaks. Moreover, type D vapor barrier is indispensable for rooms with particularly high humidity.

Here are the cases and where all these types of insulation are needed:

Does vapor permeability change when changing sides?

All of the above modern barriers are divided into the following types:

for one-sided installation, which need to be rolled out only on a certain side, and it is recommended not to confuse them;
and for double-sided use, usually with membranes that can be laid on either side.

You will be interested to know that for the first time, membranes that already had such properties as modern roofing membranes were used in astronautics! And from there they began to use them in construction and in many areas National economy. And until recently, there were not as many problems with their installation as there are today.

But now there is a strong opinion among ordinary people: if you lay the vapor barrier to the roof insulation “on the wrong side,” then the entire structure will not last long. In fact right choice hand only affects the service life interior decoration roofing cake, because the rough side has the same abilities as the smooth side and has absolutely the same vapor permeability. But how much it will retain droplets of condensate there is a little-studied question.

Let's understand such concepts as condensation - this is important. There is a catch here: for some reason, most ordinary people are sure that if high-quality vapor barrier is used, then there will be no condensation at all. Or, on the contrary, it will quickly evaporate on its own. In fact, condensation is formed from moisture that rises upward in a vaporous state.

There is such a thing as a “temperature limit”, i.e. that specific condition under which the air temperature and humidity are sufficient for steam to appear in the form of droplets. For example, at a temperature of 15°C and air humidity of about 65%, condensation will already begin to form. But if the air humidity reaches 80%, then condensation will appear at a temperature of 17°C.

In other words, the entire process of water vapor formation occurs as a result of the difference in the so-called “partial pressure”. All the water vapor contained in the air tries to escape out into the colder street through the roof enclosing structures, but on its way they encounter a barrier in the form of a vapor barrier. If the air in the house warms up faster than the surface of the vapor barrier, then moisture from the air will fall on it in the form of condensation. Here the difference between an insulated roof and a non-insulated one is clearly visible: any vapor barrier that is laid on the insulation will warm up much faster than something that is in direct contact with the cold elements of the roof.

If there is no vapor barrier layer at all, or there is not enough of it, then water vapor penetrates inside the roofing pie and encounters a “cold front” there, which turns the vapor into condensate, and under special circumstances, also into ice. And all this happens inside the roof! This ice will not bother you until spring comes and the street air warms up, thereby warming you up. roofing elements. Then the accumulated ice will melt and form entire smudges on the slopes inside the house.

But with a properly equipped roof, condensation should not appear at all, and therefore, in fact, the difference between the smooth and rough side is not significant at least in this aspect.

What is the difference between anti-condensation film and “anti-condensation side”?

As we have already said, most modern manufacturers emphasize that their vapor barrier films there is a so-called “anti-condensation side”:

The “anti-condensation” side differs from the usual one in the presence of a fleecy layer that absorbs a small amount of condensation and holds it until it evaporates.

Thanks to this, the risk of the film surface getting wet is much lower, which extends the service life of the interior finishing of the roofing cake. That is why the rough side should always be directed inside the living room or attic, and the smooth side should be leaned against the insulation. But is this really so?

Practice shows that if condensation forms inside the roofing pie, then the fleecy side of the film cannot help in this regard, and there is not much difference whether these drops adhere to the film or flow down. The fact that they exist at all is bad in itself. The anti-condensation side of the vapor barrier and the anti-condensation waterproof film on the other side of the insulation are completely two different things!

Therefore, let's summarize: the “correct” side of the vapor barrier is not equivalent in terms of the properties of the anti-condensation film: it does not remove water vapor, does not destroy drops of moisture and does not solve the problem with condensation.

But, if you are still in the process of building a roof, then for the sake of peace of mind, do as the manufacturer instructed in the attached instructions. If you have already installed a vapor barrier and are in doubt whether it is correct, forget it and don’t worry anymore. But if you hope that the “right” side of the vapor barrier will take care of all the future shortcomings of the roofing pie, don’t believe it.

Experienced roofers often declare that they consider the whole epic about which side to attach the vapor barrier to be a kind of shamanism. Allegedly, by complicating the product, they increase its positioning in the market. But in fact, as we have already said, with a well-equipped vapor barrier, there shouldn’t be any droplets on the walls, otherwise even the lining on the walls will swell and the wallpaper will fall off, since everything is so serious.

After all, this only happens when serious mistakes during roof construction. In addition, if the vapor barrier itself is located between the drywall and mineral wool, then with this complex design there's no point in messing around at all. Drywall itself absorbs moisture well, and steam will practically not be able to reach the internal vapor barrier. In this design, even simple glassine is quite acceptable!

For example, some curious roofers even conduct their own vapor barrier tests to determine whether the “wrong” side is working or not:

And those who are especially quick-witted even say that polyethylene vapor barrier with a rough side is obtained simply in the factory, when polyethylene is combined with non-woven material: the film is glued to a rough layer, and the finished product actually has two different sides. And there is no point in modifying the second side so that it also becomes smooth by connecting it to another layer of polyethylene: the vapor barrier properties will not change, and the manufacturing process will become more expensive.

And therefore it is easier to give this meaning to the product itself. And in fact, quite a lot of people have already become convinced that, even if they mix up the sides of the vapor barrier, nothing like that happens, and the film works the same on both sides, fully performing its functions.

Therefore, in any case, just strive to implement roof steam protection correctly, think through everything necessary details and don’t skimp on quality!

Types of vapor barriers used to protect the walls of a house from moisture. Why is this necessary? Correct styling and fixation of the material. Tips and features when installing a vapor barrier with your own hands.

Vapor barrier of walls

Vapor barrier of walls during construction and finishing of a house is one of the first tasks. Moisture protection will protect the building from destruction and bring warmth and comfort into the house. And also protection against fungus, which negatively affects the health of all household members.

Vapor barrier is carried out using various materials both outside and indoors. Installation technology requires compliance with the stages of work, as well as compliance with the rules on which the quality of the work performed depends.

Why do you need to install a vapor barrier inside and outside your home?

When finishing the walls of a house inside and outside, insulation materials are often used, which absorb moisture like breathable materials. As a result, a condensate collection point appears. This leads to destruction of the insulation, the appearance of fungus, deformation and damage to finishing materials (detachment of wallpaper, falling off of tiles, deformation of plasterboard sheets).

To create the desired microclimate in the room, a vapor barrier is used that can prevent moisture from reaching the insulation. At the same time, many of these components are breathable, which is necessary for both walls and finishing materials. This feature allows for ventilation, which is necessary for all elements on the walls.

Cases when vapor barrier is required:

When the walls inside the room are insulated with mineral wool. It is breathable and breaks down when exposed to moisture.
Walls covered with plasterboard and other cladding. Basically, condensation is created between the rough wall and the cladding, which negatively affects the finish.
A vapor barrier layer is installed on the outside to protect the walls from external moisture. This is done when insulating the facade of a building.

To create the necessary climate in a room with a vapor barrier, a ventilation system is necessary.

Types of vapor barrier material: which one is better

The construction market is overflowing with types of vapor barriers. It can be either liquid or in rolls. Each material has its own purpose and composition. Some are used for walls outside the house, others only indoors.

Mastic

The mastic has a bitumen-polymer base. It is applied to the surface, creating a layer that protects from moisture and allows the rough base to “breathe.” The mastic is applied to clean, dry walls made of various components (wood, brick, concrete) with a brush in 2 layers. The second time bitumen is applied to the dried first layer. The advantage is that the mixture is sold ready-made and does not require additional preparatory work by cutting or preparing. The service life of the mastic is more than 25 years.

Membranes

Membrane materials available big choice on construction market. They have the following properties:

laying on the outside of the insulation. The membrane protects external wall from precipitation, winds. Siding and lining are installed on top;

The membrane should fit tightly to the insulation and be firmly fixed. Because it can tear due to strong winds.

For vapor barrier for walls inside the house, Megaizol V is used - a polypropylene film in 2 layers with an anti-condensation surface. The film protects the walls from the appearance of dew points, which leads to the development of fungus and dampness;
Izospan FD, FS, FX – reflective surfaces used in bathrooms, baths, saunas.

At wide selection membranes, you need to pay attention to what purposes they are intended for - for the street, bathhouse or vapor barrier inside the house.

Vapor barrier film

For vapor barrier, a film with a thickness of less than 0.1 mm is used. It is the most used of all listed. It has no perforation and does not allow air to pass through. However, recently breathable films have been produced.

Vapor barrier film is applicable due to solutions to such problems:

Micro-ventilation of walls and insulation occurs.
The condensate collected when the outside temperature changes is partially removed.
In saunas and baths, where there is high humidity And heat, which other vapor barriers cannot withstand.

The vapor barrier film does not allow small drops of water to pass through, but at the same time “breathes”, which allows you to solve problems.

Liquid rubber

This material is sold in the form of a bitumen-polymer liquid product. After application, a “rubber” covering appears on the surface, which follows all the recesses on the wall. The rubber surface prevents moisture from penetrating and provides hydro-thermal insulation protection.

Types of liquid rubber:

Emulsion – applied by machine. Applicable on floors for vapor barrier.
Emulsion applied to the floor manually.

Liquid rubber is also applicable to protect the foundation from the street side.

Installation of vapor barrier material for insulation inside a brick house

Vapor barrier of brick walls is made using several types of materials to choose from. Indoors - these are films and membranes.

Materials based on foil are also applicable. They have reflective properties. In this case, the foil side is placed inside the room.

If brick wall the inside is insulated with mineral wool, then it must be protected on both sides. On the wall side from condensation, and on the room side from vapors penetrating into the insulation.

Protective materials used include Aluf, Penotherm, and Penofol.

First of all, prepare the wall: it is cleaned of sharp protrusions and dust.

Afterwards, the vapor barrier is fixed, the insulation is placed in the created sheathing, and a vapor barrier is placed on top again. In this way, the mineral wool is protected on both sides.

Which side to lay to the insulation inside the building: how to lay

Depending on where the material is being installed, determine which side to lay it on:

When laying insulation on the street side, the vapor barrier is fixed to the insulation on the street side.
When treating ceilings and roofs, antioxidant materials are used. They are fixed to the insulation.
If there is no additional fastening of the ceiling and roof insulation, then the material is attached to the bottom of the rafters.
If thermal insulation comes with inside walls, then fixation is done from the outside of the insulation.

Many materials are used that have the same surface on both sides. Therefore, it makes no difference which side the vapor barrier is attached to.

Which side to attach and nail?

When the question arises which side is used to fix the vapor barrier, nuances arise:

There are materials that have the same sides. Their use does not affect the protective functions.
The antioxidant insulator is placed with its smooth side facing the insulation.
Foil membrane - fixed with a shiny surface inside the room.
Film materials – smooth side to the insulation.
When choosing a diffuse component, you need to study the instructions, since they can be double-sided.

The dark side of the material is the outer side.

What to glue

The vapor barrier is fixed in several ways:

use nails with wide heads;
use of a construction stapler;
on top of the layer, wooden planks are fixed at a certain distance.

The joints are glued together with adhesive tape for vapor barrier.

Features of vapor barrier of frame and wooden buildings

For guard wooden walls houses have a vapor barrier both outside and inside. This is necessary, first of all, to protect the wooden beams, since after getting wet, slow drying occurs. During drying, the wood becomes deformed and rots.

IN wooden house It is imperative to fix the vapor barrier layer, because there is the possibility of temperature fluctuations and the appearance of humidity. Especially in the autumn-spring period.

Vapor barrier of walls in frame houses is carried out using a different method.

How to lay it correctly

Vapor barrier of walls wooden house from the street are produced in the following sequence:

On wooden beams fix the layers with overlap. All joints are sealed with tape or foil tape.
Next, installation is carried out frame base for insulation.
After attaching the mineral wool, a hydraulic barrier is attached to the beams on top.
The last stage is finishing the house.

If the bars create flat surface, then the vapor barrier must be mounted on wooden slats. This will create ventilation.

Vapor barrier inside the house:

a gap should be made using slats for ventilation;
material is attached to the slats;
the next step is the construction of a frame base for the insulation.
after laying the insulation, fix the hydrobarrier;
the last stage is finishing.

When laying vapor barrier material frame house you need to follow these rules:

use membranes to create a ventilation layer;
Installation of vapor barrier on both sides is not done.

The material is secured with a stapler, the borders are sewn up with tape.

Is additional protection needed?

In a wooden house additional protection not required. But in frame buildings applicable material such as: hydro-, wind protection. He is fixed to exterior decoration. Then OSB, thermal insulation, vapor barrier and finishing are applied.

Is it possible to lay several layers

This is not necessary, because the vapor barrier material is created in such a way that it fully performs its functions. In addition, in some cases, in addition to vapor barrier, they use Additional materials protecting the insulation and walls (wind protection, waterproofing).

Attention. Some types of membranes are created from several layers. By using this material, there will be additional protection for walls in damp rooms.

How difficult is it to make a vapor barrier with your own hands?

Despite the fact that the vapor barrier of the walls in the house is important point to protect the structure from destruction, it can be carried out independently. To do this you need to follow the rules:

You need to know how to properly install specific cases(high humidity, wooden walls).
Before installation work You should familiarize yourself with the technical characteristics of the selected material.
The roll must be cut by clearly measuring the correct length. The fewer joints there are, the better for the building.
Fixing the layer cannot be done simply with nails to the surface. Over time, the vapor barrier will tear and weaken. You must use either wooden slats, or a stapler.

Peculiarities

Before installing the vapor barrier, the following features must be taken into account:

Material. Having studied specifications material, you can understand how suitable it is for working indoors or outdoors.
Correctness of work. In addition to the fact that the rolled material is laid with an overlap of at least 20 cm, you need to know which side and in what method: vertically, horizontally.
The joints of the material must be glued to avoid moisture getting on the insulation.
The material is fixed every 60 cm.

For quality work done, craftsmen recommend purchasing vapor barrier and its components from the same company. Let's say that the tape for the joints should be of the same brand as the material itself.

Vapor barrier of the walls of a house can be carried out not only when a new building is being erected, but also when repair work. The walls of the house are destroyed under the influence of moisture, so to preserve them, the material is installed outdoors and in the house. Only in some cases work is carried out on one side ( frame house). Having studied all the nuances of installation, the vapor barrier will last a long time, and the microclimate in the house will not be disturbed by moisture.