How to assemble a box in a bathroom from a profile. Secrets of installing a box made of plastic panels in the bathroom. Box finishing with plastic panels

Speaking about pipes in the bathroom, it should be noted that they do not look very attractive. Therefore, the question of how to make a pipe box in the bathroom worries many people. more aesthetic appearance.

Installing a box is the most common method. Just before installation, it is necessary to calculate everything so that there is unhindered access to the main line distribution.

Otherwise renovation work it will not be possible to carry out this without dismantling the box.

Tools required for work:

1. mites;
2. electric drill;
3. square;
4. marker;
5. hacksaw;
6. hammer;
7. metal scissors;
8. screwdriver;
9. level;
10. roulette.

First you need to make a frame

Regardless of the cladding material and the location of the box, the frame is always made the same way. Let's consider this using the example of a box located vertically.

Work begins with the installation of two guide profiles. If the box is placed in a corner, then they are mounted with one and reverse side from the corner. And in areas where the main line runs straight, it must be installed on both sides of the pipe.

The guides must be strengthened using a level, and they should be secured with dowels or self-tapping screws.

IMPORTANT! In order not to lose a lot of space in the bathroom, you need to ensure that the profiles are located as close to the pipes as possible.

Next, they move on to installing guide profiles in the bathroom on the ceiling and floor. From the edge of the wall profile on the wall, lines are drawn parallel to the wall.

Where the lines intersect will indicate the length and direction for mounting the guides. The necessary blanks are cut (two for the floor and two for the ceiling).

Then they are secured with dowels and the direction indicated by the lines is maintained. This is necessary in order not to disturb the vertical angle that is formed later.

First, you need to install it on the ceiling, and then, using a plumb line, transfer the joining point to the floor. This is where the floor profiles are assembled.

They must be fastened with self-tapping screws with a diameter of 3.5 mm and a length of 9 mm (tex).

This corner element is cut according to the height of the room and inserted into the guides on the ceiling and floor. The entire structure is then secured with tex.

The next stage of work will be connecting the wall and corner guides with blanks of supporting profiles.

They are placed every 5 cm, otherwise the frame will not have the necessary rigidity. And now you can move on to the casing.

Which material is better to choose

Most often, plastic or plasterboard is used for cladding. The main difference between these materials is that the plastic design is more convenient.

If necessary, it can be easily and quickly disassembled. And it folds up very easily too. A box made of plastic panels does not need additional finishing, but drywall does.

Sheathing with plasterboard

It is not difficult to make a box in a bathroom from plasterboard. Sequence of work:

1. Drywall sheets are cut into pieces the right size.
2. These pieces are then screwed to a metal profile. To do this, use 27 mm self-tapping screws. Fastenings are made at intervals of 30 cm using a screwdriver or screwdriver.
3. A small chamfer needs to be removed from the joint of the drywall sheets, and the resulting gap is sealed with putty.

The final finishing of this material is done in the same way as finishing the walls. To do this, use plastic panels, paint, wallpaper, or ceramic tiles.

Access to communications is an important detail when installing a box

It should be borne in mind that the network will someday need to be repaired, so you need to provide convenient and quick access to it. For such purposes, a hole must be made in the structure.

The small dimensions of such a hole make it difficult to access, so take this point into account in advance.

The hole is closed with a special hatch. IN construction stores The choice of these designs is extensive. Buyers can choose any color, size and model modification. The device is secured with magnets.

Blinds are also used for the opening. Not everyone likes this solution, but you can get to the pipes in a couple of minutes.

Removable box made of plasterboard and tiles

A removable box for pipes in the bathroom is suitable in cases where it is necessary to sew up pipes inexpensively and neatly. IN in this case the advantage is that if a pipeline rupture occurs, it is easy to access problem area.

Video 1

For removable design take moisture resistant drywall and metal guides. The entire structure is made of attached parts that are installed one on top of the other.

All sections are corner element and are attached to the wall using simple hinges, which are used for hanging shelves.

The structure is hung with screws, and it simultaneously rests on the floor. This design is resistant to shear. How additional fasteners are used metal corner from its inner part.

Access to communications becomes possible through the hatch even after the upper part is removed. Handles are attached to the sections from the inside. This is done for easy movement during installation.

It is better to make the final lining of the removable box from a tiled mosaic that is glued liquid nails. A hatch is installed in the middle section for access to ventilation and meters.

The seam between the sections does not need to be rubbed, but can be applied rubber compressor or silicone.

Removable pipe boxes are not light in weight, but they can be easily and quickly disassembled, which makes them very convenient to use.

Box finishing with plastic panels

This design is considered a good alternative. This material is not particularly inferior to tiles, which occupy a leading place among finishing materials.

Plastic is easy to care for, it can be easily cleaned of dirt and grease stains.

This material is not afraid of temperature changes, and for a bathroom this is very important. The popularity of this material is also based on the fact that its installation is a simple process that does not require high costs time and finances.

If you decide to make a box from plastic panels in the bathroom, then you don’t have to think about leveling the walls. Plastic panels are mounted like laminate (using a puzzle method).

The installation process itself takes a couple of hours. Distinctive feature This material is resistant to deformation.

If the box is tiled in a new house, it may shrink over time. In this case, the tiles are destroyed, but this does not happen with panels.

Plastic panels have another advantage. They are much cheaper when compared to tiles. Except her high cost, to the costs of laying it you need to add the costs of glue, grout, corners, and leveling the walls.

For plastic panels all this is not needed. Also, replacing tiles is difficult. And a damaged panel is much easier to replace. For these reasons plastic box for pipes in the bathroom they are used more often than others.

IMPORTANT! To make this design last longer, the places where the panels are attached are coated with silicone sealant.

Placing plastic panels on pipes in the bathroom

• In this case, it is advised not to install the entire profile at once. At first, only the wall starting element is installed.
• They begin to sheathe one side. The plastic is cut into small pieces and inserted from bottom to top (do this horizontally). They do not require fastening. In those places where it is necessary to control the highway, cutouts are made and a door is mounted.
• Decorative element for the corner. The plastic corner is put on the protrusion of the assembled plastic. When it falls into place, it must be secured to the frame with planks.
• The second side of the structure is sheathed similarly to the first.
• The back shelf is removed from the last starting profile. It is coated with silicone and glued into the corner.
• Slots and joints of the box with tiles filled with sanitary silicone. Excess is carefully removed with a damp cloth.

Video 2

Whatever box you choose, the main thing is that it fully copes with its functions. It should cover unsightly pipes and make it possible to get to them comfortably.

With all this, this design must be in harmony with general design design of the entire room. Using the information above and watching the video, you will learn how to make a bathroom pipe box yourself. This type of work will not be a problem for you.

The bathroom is the place where any person spends most of his time. This room should always be as comfortable and attractive as possible. To make your bathroom pleasing to the eye, it is necessary to cover the space under it with a box.

This will not only improve the appearance of the room, but will also create additional usable space for storing household equipment. It is not at all necessary to contact builders, because you can do everything yourself.

What is necessary?

Creating a box under the bathtub is quite simple. To do this, you will first need a basic construction material: plywood, plastic, chipboard. However, for the bathroom it is preferable to use plasterboard, which is more reliable and water-resistant. He can also offer more options further surface finishing: painting, tiling and even wallpapering.

In addition, you will need the following tools:

• Plumb.
• Bubble level.
• Hammer.
• Construction knife.
• Construction corner.
• Hammer drill.
• Roulette.

To build a plasterboard box for a bathtub, it is enough to take one sheet measuring 2.5 by 1.2 meters. It is best to take a thickness of 9 or 12.5 millimeters; they are more durable and reliable.

Also pay attention to moisture-resistant options that, when exposed to water and high temperatures will not be covered with perspiration. The frame of the housing can be built from galvanized metal profiles or wooden blocks. If you are going to use wood, treat it with an antiseptic in advance, which will protect it from destruction and rotting.

The components must be secured as follows:

• To secure the components of the box, it is best to use hammer-in European screws and dowels, which are designed for fastening to the wall.
• If the blocks need to be connected to each other, self-tapping screws with a drill tip are used.
• If you use wooden partitions, take hardened self-tapping screws with a length 2 times greater than the size of the block itself.

Read how to do it in a separate review.

Work order

First of all, to successfully install a plasterboard box under the bathroom, you need to mark the floor. The first line should indicate the outline along which you will place the guide outline. Keep in mind that the sheets themselves are installed on top of the frame, so the boundaries of your box will be slightly different. All lines must be checked for perpendicularity to each other and to the walls.

Keep in mind that sheets of drywall should not lie on the pipes - at least 3-5 centimeters of free space must be left between them. Choose the width yourself depending on the free space. If you are going to lay tiles on top of the sheets, then the width of the box must be a multiple of the width of one tile. Once you have finished marking the floor, you can begin marking the walls. This is done using a special construction thread, which allows you to place the correct points on the floor and ceiling.

Fastening frame elements

Install the profile near the wall, and then construct two racks: the spaced one and the front edge of the box. If the width of the resulting opening exceeds 25 centimeters and the height is 1.5 meters, then it is necessary to build support lintels and racks. They are installed at an equal distance from each other. If you are using wooden blocks

, during installation, be sure to treat the wood joints with a special mastic.

Pre-cut the sheet of drywall into separate single strips. First of all, prepare the material for the side edges - in this case, the width of the strips should be equal to the width of the frame. Make sure that it does not protrude beyond the side edges. Secure the resulting sheets with self-tapping screws at a distance of 2-3 centimeters from the main posts. You can further strengthen the structure, however, if it is not very large, this will not play any role.

Facing

Once you have installed all the sheets of drywall into the frame, you can begin to putty the surface. This is necessary to form the corners of the box, as well as to seal the free spaces where it adjoins the walls. It is best to use a special plastic corner, which is secured with starting putty. After drying, finishing putty is applied to the surface. This means that the box is ready for subsequent laying of tiles.

Inspection hatches

At first glance it may seem that the box is a simple structure made of metal bars and sheets of drywall. However, when building it, you need to remember the features of the pipes and communications that you will be sheathing. After all, in this matter you need to create not only a beautiful, but also a convenient design.

In almost all apartments on sewer riser There are revisions - special couplings with an outlet or hole covered with a lid. They are necessary for clearing serious blockages. If they exist, then it is strictly forbidden to sew such places tightly with a box - it is necessary to leave the possibility of unhindered access to the audit.

Exist the following types inspection hatches:

• The finished screen is sold in all hardware stores. This is the simplest and most convenient. Today you can find a surface with any design; you can easily select it for your interior.
• A hatch in the form of a roller shutter - in this case, the door can move up or down, but it is impossible to completely disguise it.
• A tile hatch is a regular plastic box that can be tiled.

Advice. If you don't want to spend large amounts on inspection hatches, you can build a regular frame and hang a moisture-repellent curtain.

Whatever you say, but engineering Communication in the bathroom (water supply and sewerage pipes) look, frankly, not entirely aesthetically pleasing. Therefore, they try to hide them from view by camouflaging various elements. There are many ways to camouflage pipes, but one is the most common at present. This is a plasterboard box for the bathroom.

The most amazing thing is that this design is simple, but at the same time exactly matches all the requirements for the elements wet areas– both in moisture resistance, and in strength, and in appearance.

Box in the bathroom

Important!
Such a box must be constructed in such a way that access to all systems is provided for carrying out not only preventive work, but also in emergency situations.
Therefore, it is necessary to think through everything before starting installation work.

Frame installation

A plasterboard bathroom box requires a frame, which is made of metal profiles. If it is decided to cover vertically standing pipes with a box, usually located in the corner of the room, then frame construction will consist of three profiles forming an isosceles triangle in cross-section.

Two of them will be attached to adjacent walls.

Marking and installation

A very important component in the construction of a frame for drywall is the installation accurate measurements. To do this, you need to measure the distance from the wall to the outer edge of the pipe. It is according to this size that the frame elements will be set. Don't forget to measure the length of the pipes themselves to accurately trim the profiles.

First of all, profiles are installed, which are attached to the walls with self-tapping screws. To do this you will need a hammer drill and a screwdriver. But the third rack will have to be attached with pieces of profile to the first two racks. The structure in this case is strong and rigid.

How to determine the location of the intermediate post? To do this, perpendiculars are drawn from the installation site of the two wall profiles. Their intersection is the place you need.

By the way, you can attach this rack:

• to the walls themselves using specially made corners;
• to wall studs using profiles cut to a specific size.

In principle, both methods are good decision. But most often, craftsmen use the latter (photo below). It's simpler.

Attention!
If the utility lines are not located in the corner of the room, you will have to install a full-fledged box consisting of three sides.
To do this, you will have to install two racks that are separate from the wall, which will be attached to the wall ones and to each other with crossbars. The cost of such a solution increases.

Box frame

Related articles:
Drywall box

Plasterboard box for pipes

Sheathing the box with plasterboard

• First, plasterboard panels are prepared, which are cut exactly to the dimensions of the rectangular edges of the box. Please note that moisture-resistant plasterboard must be used for bathrooms.
• Secondly, the material cut into pieces is secured to its destination with self-tapping screws.
• After all this, finishing is done.

As you can see, there is nothing difficult about this process No. But this was the technology for installing a non-demountable box for the bathroom. As mentioned above, it is necessary to provide in the design of the profile for plasterboard of this device a small inspection hole that could be used to easily carry out inspection and maintenance work.

How can this be done so as not to disassemble the entire structure when emergency situations? Of course, you can install hinges on one of the racks on which a small door is hung.

In order to make it, you will need a rectangular metal carcass made from profiles for plasterboard, covered with a piece of plasterboard. That is, it should be a full-fledged door. But doing all this is quite difficult.

There is an easier way. A piece of plasterboard sheet cut exactly to size is attached to the permanent frame. Subsequently, the box itself will be lined with ceramic tiles. But the tiles on the front part of the box must be placed in such a way that they do not overlap the places of attachment to the profiles, that is, the screws.

Frame installation diagram

Why is this necessary? In case of an emergency, the screws can be unscrewed and the front panel removed. But this option does not look very nice, since the fastener heads are visible.

Therefore, for decoration and for making presentable appearance, the gaps left for fasteners are decorated with special strips (and become invisible).

Sheathing of a horizontal box

In principle, this design is not much different from the vertical one in terms of complexity and production. The only thing that experts pay attention to are some additions.

Eg,

• The floor in the box should be slightly higher than the surface of the base of the floor of the room itself.
• In the box you need to leave a small hole at the bottom (preferably more than one). If there is a leak in the pipelines, water will first begin to seep through these holes. This will help prevent troubles associated with flooding of neighbors on the lower floor.

Full box

1. If the box is installed on heating pipes, it is necessary to ensure the outflow of thermal energy through specially cut holes in the top panel.
2. Before installing plasterboard panels, it is imperative to chamfer the edges to ensure high-quality finishing joints
3. Before laying the tiles, the box must be treated with a primer.

Door on frame

Conclusion on the topic

Now you thoroughly understand how to make a plasterboard box in the bathroom with your own hands. There is nothing complicated. And yet, many readers probably have questions that the video posted on this page will help answer. Let it become a kind of instruction for use for you. Happy renovation!

Tsugunov Anton Valerievich

Reading time: 4 minutes

Pipes left in sight are not the best addition to a bathroom interior. In order for the room to have a neat and complete look, communications need to be hidden. Moreover, it is advisable to do this in such a way as to have access to pipe connections, valves, meters and filters. The optimal solution This task will be making a box. Let's look at how to make a box for pipes in the bathroom from plastic panels.

Advantages of a plastic box

The structure for masking pipes can be made of plastic or. Each of these options is good in its own way, but in terms of practicality, the plastic box is the leader. It has many undeniable advantages:

• Possibility of quick disassembly without damaging the material. This property of plastic construction is especially important for pipes joined using fittings and threaded connections, which are not insured against leaks. After eliminating the breakdown or planned Maintenance The pipe box is easy to put back together.
• No need for further finishing. Plastic panels themselves are already a finishing touch decorative material, unlike drywall, which requires finishing.

• Resistance to deformation and ease of repair. The plastic used to make the panels is strong and flexible, so it is less likely to be damaged than tiles, which can be accidentally broken. Even if one panel is damaged, it can be easily replaced with a new one without damaging the entire structure.
• Moisture resistance. PVC is not afraid of water, does not rot, nothing will happen to the box, even if it is installed close to the bathtub or gets wet due to condensation forming on the pipes.
• Easy to install. Installation of the box will take only a few hours and will not require the use of expensive or specific tools.
• Affordable price. Plastic panels for bathrooms are one of the most inexpensive finishing materials.
• Spacious and compact. Due to the small thickness of the panels plastic construction very roomy and won't take up much extra space in the bathroom, which is especially important for a small room.

The plastic box is very practical: it can be disassembled and assembled required amount once.

Preparatory work

Before you begin assembling the box, you need to carry out several preliminary activities.

• Inspect all pipes that will be hidden. Eliminate defects while communications are visible. If a new pipeline is being installed at the same time, try to keep the number of connections to a minimum.

• Decide what type of box the bathroom will have. It can hide only a small area where the pipes pass, or take up enough large area. The advantage of the first option is that it saves material and there is no need to sacrifice free space. When choosing a more voluminous modification extra bed inside the structure can be adapted for storing things.

• silicone sealant;
• PVC skirting boards for masking joints;
• self-tapping screws;
• sharp construction knife.

Making the frame of the box

When installing the structure frame, follow the following instructions.

• On the walls adjacent to the corner, install guides (UD profiles) that will determine the dimensions of the box. Don't forget to use a level. To attach load-bearing profiles to the wall, use European screws and dowels. If the surface is tiled, you can take metal screws 2.5 centimeters long and 3.5 millimeters in diameter. They are screwed into the seams between the tiles.

Tip: To save space in the bathroom, install profiles closer to the pipes. Minimum distance– 3 centimeters.

• If the pipes run horizontally, place the profile parallel to the floor and secure it to it.
• Start forming outside corner. Twist two UD profiles corner post. Send their shelves to different sides at a right angle and connect with small screws - “fleas”.

• Cut the CD supporting profile into pieces, the length of which will correspond to the dimensions of the structure. Attach the corner stiffener to the wall. Insert the finished profile pieces with one end into the guide installed at the first stage, and the other into the stiffening rib. Thus, both parts of the corner are connected to the profile.
• Every 50 centimeters, add jumpers, which are necessary for the subsequent fastening of PVC panels.
• The second corner profile is attached in a similar way to another wall.

We cover the frame with PVC panels

Once ready Basic structure, you can start covering it. This should be done in the following sequence:

• Install starting profile. Carefully, avoiding deformation, secure it with fleas to the installed guide.
• Measure a strip of plastic panel to the required length and cut it with a sharp knife.
• Fix one panel in the starting profile, attach the second to corner profile and install it to another plane of the box. To connect, use the same “fleas” or “bugs”.
• Assemble the second side of the box in the same way. Fix the starting profile on the last plastic panel, then secure it. If you do this with silicone, you can ensure ease of dismantling in the future if an emergency arises.
• Cut inspection holes in places where you need unobstructed access to important elements pipeline: taps, meters and joints. By using silicone sealant secure special hatches in the holes.

During the overhaul in the apartment, almost everyone is faced with one small, but very unpleasant situation. Some of the pipes and communications in the bathroom and kitchen cannot be moved or redone. As a result, a situation is possible when, against the backdrop of beautiful finishing materials, an ancient pipe or sewer riser will “show off”, which will spoil any idea of ​​the transformation of the apartment. To avoid this, there is one extremely simple option that is accessible to everyone. You should hide nondescript pipes in a neat box. How to make a box from plasterboard will be discussed further.

You can choose other materials to implement the box, such as: plastic, chipboard, plywood, etc. However, most suitable material there is still drywall left. It is the easiest to process. The resulting surface of the box can be easily finished using ceramic tiles, wallpaper or paint. Simply put, only drywall will not limit you in any way in the choice of finishing methods and, moreover, will create a strong and reliable box that will last a very long time. It’s easy and simple to build a plasterboard box with your own hands, you just need to consider a few important nuances in the construction of such an interior element.

What is needed to build a box?

You will need the following tool:

1. roulette;
2. plumb line, bubble level;
3. hammer drill;
4. construction corner;
5. construction knife;
6. hammer.

The list of materials naturally includes a sheet of drywall. One is enough standard sheet 2500*1200 mm with a thickness of 9 or 12.5 mm. It is best to choose moisture-resistant drywall, taking into account the fact that water pipes or a sewer riser will be sheathed, which tend to be covered at least a little with perspiration, so that the humidity will be significant. This is all the more reasoned if a plasterboard box is installed in the bathroom, where the humidity is already high.

The frame for the box can be made either from wooden blocks 40*40 or 50*50 mm, or from a galvanized metal profile specially designed for working with drywall. If wood will be used, it must be done in advance, which will protect the wood from rotting and destruction. in this regard, it is more practical, since it does not require mandatory training, and it is somewhat easier to use.

Scheme of constructing a box for pipes based on a metal profile.

From a wide variety of profiles, you will need a UD guide profile and a CD profile to form the frame itself.

To secure the frame elements, it is best to use dowels and hammer-in European screws for fastening to the wall and flea screws with a drill tip for connecting the profiles to each other. For wood you will need hardened self-tapping screws, twice as long larger size the timber used. In any case, hardened self-tapping screws with a piercing tip of size 35-45 mm are used to secure sheets of drywall.

Work order

Stage 1: marking

First you need to make markings on the floor. The line should indicate the contour along which the guide profile or support bars will be installed. It should be taken into account that plasterboard will be sewn on top of the frame, so the resulting dimensions of the box will differ from the dimensions of the markings by the thickness of the sheet used. Using a construction angle, the perpendicularity of the lines in relation to the walls and each other is checked.

The thickness and width of the box is chosen such that the plasterboard sheathing does not adjoin the pipes in any place, and there is a gap of at least 3-5 cm on all sides. The width should also be chosen taking into account subsequent finishing. If subsequently the box will also be lined with ceramic tiles, then you should select the width of the box equal to the whole number of the widths of the tile itself in order to avoid the need for trimming.

The markings on the floor are ready. A plumb line is used to transfer the markings to the ceiling. If necessary, markings on the wall are made using a stretched thread between the corresponding points on the floor and ceiling.

Stage 2: securing frame elements

The profiles or bars located near the wall stop first. After this, one or two racks are fixed, spaced from the walls and forming the front, protruding edge of the box. If the width of the box exceeds 25 cm or the height of the box is more than 1.5 m, jumpers should be installed between the support posts. Jumpers are installed at a distance of no more than 1 m from each other.

During installation, if used wooden beam, the cut areas should be further processed. It is best to use a special construction mastic for wood. In addition to protecting the wood, this will provide greater stability and sound insulation so that the box does not creak during thermal deformations.

Stage 3: installation of drywall sheets

It is advisable to cut the sheet of material in such a way that the box consists of single strips rather than pieces. First of all, the strips for the side edges of the box are cut off. Their width should be equal to the width of the frame itself and not protrude beyond the border support posts. Only after this can you accurately measure the size of the remaining edge and cut the corresponding strip of drywall so that it fits the edges of the side strips. The sheets are secured with 35-45 mm self-tapping screws every 15-25 mm to the main frame posts. You don’t have to reinforce the sheets in addition to the jumpers between the posts. At such a small width of the structure this will not play any role.

After the sheets are secured, you can begin to putty and form the corners of both the box itself and in the places where it adjoins the walls. To do this, use a special metal or plastic perforated corner. It is fixed on thin layer starting putty. After this you can apply a layer finishing putty or prepare the surface for laying ceramic tiles. Actually, at this point we can consider the work on constructing the plasterboard box completed.

Only there is whole line points and mandatory conditions regarding the process of covering the frame of the box with plasterboard. This is due to the fact that a plasterboard box is a non-demountable structure, and tightly sewing up elements such as a sewer riser or water supply pipes is fraught.

Video: example of box formation

Features of box construction

Essentially, the box is simple design from a frame and plasterboard sheets attached to it. However, do not forget about the features of those pipes and communications that are to be sheathed. When making a pipe box, it is necessary to take into account not only the aesthetics of the result, but also practical aspects.

Sewer riser

In many apartments there are so-called audits on the sewer riser. These are special couplings on a pipe with an outlet or hole that is closed with a lid. An inspection is needed to clear the blockages. Under no circumstances should such areas be tightly sewn up with a box. You should carefully mark the area and leave a window for unhindered access to the audit from the outside. You can close the window using special plastic doors, which are sold in hardware stores.

In addition to inspection, access to the connection and convergence points should be provided internal sewerage into the central riser. It may be necessary to replace some elements over time or remove blockages in the internal pipes.

Water pipes

Doors must be formed in the technological holes in the box in those places where the pipes have such elements as: water flow meters, valves and compensators, check valves and gearboxes.

To form these openings, holes should be formed in the plasterboard sheets that are 1-3 mm larger than the dimensions of the door frame, which will subsequently be inserted there. This can be done in advance in a strip of drywall before attaching it to the frame. You can also just mark the installation position of the door in advance and, after fixing the drywall to the frame, begin cutting out the hole.

If the door is installed for access to the audit sewer drain in a toilet or bathroom, the hole for it is located on the front edge of the box, which faces the entrance. This mandatory requirement and you shouldn’t even try to move the door somewhere more secluded.

If the door is only for access to valves and other equipment on water pipes, then it is quite acceptable to place it on the side edge of the box. This way it will be less noticeable. It is only important that the ability to quickly access technological units if necessary.