How to make a homemade support for a lathe with your own hands? Do-it-yourself lathe for metal drawings How to make a lathe

How to make a homemade support for a lathe with your own hands?  Do-it-yourself lathe for metal drawings How to make a lathe
How to make a homemade support for a lathe with your own hands? Do-it-yourself lathe for metal drawings How to make a lathe

In most cases, a homemade lathe successfully replaces expensive factory equipment. Especially when there is a desire to process metal with minimal costs for equipment.

It's not at all difficult to make a small benchtop lathe your own. with my own hands, or you can choose a more complicated drawing - for a garage. The cost of parts and materials is affordable; some spare parts will probably be found on the farm.

Basic elements and operating principle

lathe device

One of the most important characteristics of a metal lathe is its ability to withstand the severe loads encountered when processing metals. At the same time, accuracy and speed are required.

A simple design for metal processing at home contains:

  • base (bed);
  • two racks (aka headstock);
  • electric motor;
  • motion transmission mechanism;
  • device for securing the workpiece;
  • stop for the cutter (support).

The main mechanisms are located in the headstock. but the motor homemade design may be outside. Using a transmission mechanism, the movement from the motor is transmitted to the spindle - a hollow shaft, to which the workpiece is attached using a chuck. The tailstock serves to support the free end of the part.

Precision processing is achieved not only by skilled hands:

  • stability of the base;
  • absence of spindle “beating”;
  • reliable fastening of the workpiece in the chuck.

Made according to all the rules, the mini-machine is easy to operate and compact. It is suitable for processing small metal parts of various shapes, wood and plastic blanks.

Selection of parts

When the drawings of all components and fixtures have been developed, you can begin selecting parts.

powerful metal frame

The purpose of the frame is to rigidly fix the leading and driven centers. For a desktop mini-machine, you can make it yourself from a wooden block. This design will withstand working with small metal parts. A stationary frame for a garage or workshop must be durable; it is welded from a corner, metal strips or channel. It is recommended to use factory made guides. If not available, they are assembled from rolled metal with their own hands.

The dimensions of the bed determine the dimensions of the parts that will be processed. So, the length of the workpiece depends on the distance between the faceplate (chuck) and the center of the tailstock.

Electric motor and transmission

Most suitable for homemade machine- asynchronous motor. Its feature is constant speed rotation. To process metal workpieces, the following power is required:

  • for working with small workpieces made of soft metals - 0.5 - 1 kW;
  • for working with large parts and steels - 1.5 - 2 kW.

A high-power electric drill motor is quite suitable.

The use of commutator motors whose rotation speed depends on the load should be avoided. Accelerating at Idling, it may cause the workpiece to eject from the chuck and cause injury to your hands. If there is no other engine, the collector engine must be supplemented with a gearbox that controls the speed under any load.

The transmission can be belt or gear. It’s easier to assemble a belt with your own hands; it’s quite reliable. The belt neutralizes the force directed along the shaft and destroys the electric motor bearings.

You can also use a gearbox, which will allow you to operate at several speeds. And you can increase the engine speed with the help of an additional pulley.

An alternative to a gear mechanism is to mount the tool chuck directly onto the motor shaft. This device is often used for desktop mini-machines assembled from a drill or hand engraver. When planning it, you need to choose a motor with a sufficiently long shaft! To partially compensate for the load along the shaft, a stop, for example, in the form of a ball, is installed between its end and the rear surface of the housing.

Master and slave centers

mini-machine for turning metal parts

In order for the part to rotate smoothly and not vibrate, the centers must be located strictly on the same axis. The workpiece is fixed with a faceplate or a jaw chuck.

The driven center is located on the rear support and can rotate or be stationary. A threaded hole is made in the support and a bolt is screwed in, which is sharpened to a cone. The bolt should have a stroke of about 3 cm in order to press the inserted workpiece tightly. The rear support (headstock) moves along the base along a guide. But in the simplest mini-machines, the end of the workpiece is supported by a retractable sharpened threaded pin, the amplitude of which is small.

Machine assembly process

metal frame combined with thick plywood support

The design will be based on an old working drill.

  1. From corner No. 40 we weld a base 70 cm long: at the edges there are two long corners, between them two - 40 cm long - this is the length of the working area. Between the short corners we leave a gap - a guide.
  2. Headstock in in this case- This is a rack in which you need to conveniently and securely secure the drill. Let's make it from a metal corner and plates. In the vertical part we cut a round hole for the drill chuck. The cartridge should fit tightly into the hole.
  3. We weld the headstock to the base at the corner.
  4. The base for the tailstock is cut from angle No. 100. In the center of the horizontal part of the corner we drill a hole for a bolt that runs along the guide and holds the headstock. The bolt is welded from below to a rectangular pressure plate, and adjusted from above with a nut.

The support or tool holder will move along the central guide. To make a caliper, you will need a cast iron blank with a diameter of 80 mm, from which 2 parallelepipeds are cut with a grinder. We cut holes with a diameter of 22 mm in them for the bushings. We will make the rods from car axle shafts found in the garage.

We cut out the base and side parts from metal plate. Between the rods we weld a bronze nut pressed into a steel sleeve, into which we screw a threaded pin passing through a hole in one of the sidewalls. Here we weld a homemade handle or lamb. We drill a vertical hole with a thread in the moving part with our own hands. We weld a plate - a tool holder - onto a long bolt. We pass the bolt through a square plate mounted on the bearings and screw it into the moving part of the caliper. Along the perimeter of the plate we will make clamps for the tool holder from bolts.

Common disadvantages of homemade lathes

  • Low power of the electric motor, which does not allow achieving sufficient performance of the mini-machine;
  • small spindle diameter, limiting the size of the workpiece;
  • lack of automation, so all settings are done manually;
  • limitation maximum dimensions blanks;
  • vibrations due to a fragile frame.

The first video clearly shows the design of the caliper; the second video presents another model of a homemade lathe, assembled with your own hands:

Tips for making a homemade metal lathe

Make your own lathe cutting machine for metal is quite simple. If you build this device yourself, you can save money a large number of money. Ready product It is not cheap at all, and the quality of the parts is not always satisfactory.

Homemade metal lathe

Diagram of a homemade lathe

A cutting-off lathe, which you can very easily make with your own hands, should consist of the following structural elements:

Homemade lathe (top view)

  • pasterns - front and back;
  • frame;
  • electric drive;
  • slave and leading centers;
  • stop for the cutting part.

The unit itself is placed on the frame. In this case, when the device is manufactured independently, its role is played by the frame. Moves along this base tailstock. The other one is the front one, it should be motionless. The headstock is designed to install elements for rotating the necessary equipment.

The center, which is the leading one, is connected to the engine through a special transmission device, which is installed on the frame or, in our case, on the frame. With the help of the leading center, rotational motion is transmitted to the workpiece, which is processed on this unit.

If you decide to make this device with your own hands, then use wooden blocks, metal corners or other profiles that you can find in your garage. In this case, the main condition is not the material itself, but how stable the frame can be created with its help. In this case, all centers must be fixed in a certain position during its operation.

Headstock of a homemade lathe

To make a lathe with your own hands, you can use an electric motor of any type and power. When choosing this element, you only need to consider the type of material that will be processed. If you need to work with metal workpieces, then it is best to use a powerful electric drive.

Rotation of the elements of a homemade unit is possible using a belt, chain or friction drive. In this case, it is best to use the first option, which is considered the most effective and reliable. Some models do not have a transmission mechanism. Then the driving center is installed directly on the electric motor.

Features of the structural elements of a homemade lathe

Making a cutting machine for metal processing with your own hands is very simple if you follow a few rules. First of all, place the driven and leading centers on the same axis. This will help avoid vibration when processing metal parts. If you decide to make your own device with only one leading center, then additionally install a jaw chuck or faceplate. These elements are intended for fastening parts during processing.

Also, do not install commutator-type electric motors on homemade units.

This type of drive, when there is not enough load, produces too strong rotational movements. In this case, the likelihood that the workpiece will simply fly out of the vice increases.

This can not only lead to damage, but also create a very dangerous situation, especially if the work is carried out in a confined space.

The best solution for homemade metal processing devices is an asynchronous motor. Under any load, it does not change the rotation speed, which makes it very reliable. When using an asynchronous motor, it is possible to process parts maximum thickness which is 10 cm, and the width is no more than 70 cm.

A driven center is located on the tailstock, which can be either stationary or dynamic.

You can easily do it yourself using a regular bolt. Then you just need to sharpen its end and give it a cone shape.

Before installing the bolt, it must be processed machine oil. Only after that this element can be inserted into internal thread tailstock.

How to make a lathe using an electric motor?

A tabletop metal cutting machine can be easily made using following materials and tools:

The technology for constructing a mini-unit for processing workpieces made of soft metals or wood consists of the following steps:


  • Cut out several square pieces from a wooden board. Connect them using PVA glue so that the resulting column has the same height as the casing on the opposite side.
  • Attach this cube to the base using several self-tapping screws.
  • Take a piece of paper, roll it into a tube and wrap it around the engine pulley. After that, turn it on and draw a circle with a pencil that forms on the opposite side of the cube.
  • Using a drill, drill a hole in a piece of wood in the middle of the circle that has formed on the cube.
  • You need to insert a self-tapping screw into the resulting hole, which will act as a holder for the workpiece when the cutting table lathe is in operation.
  • We use a regular electric drill

    A cutting unit can be easily constructed using a regular electric drill, which can be found in any home. In this case, a spring fixation with a plate must be attached to the metal rod. After this, install one such element in the drill, and the other in the tailstock. It can be made from any material, such as wood.

    Using a drill as a lathe drive

    This installation has the following operating mechanism: a metal workpiece rotates between the plates, which allows you to perform the necessary manipulations with it.

    A homemade metal lathe is a profitable alternative to expensive mechanisms, which sometimes do not even fully perform their intended functions.

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    We assemble a homemade metal lathe with our own hands

    Why do you need a homemade lathe?

    There is not a single real owner who would not want to have in his arsenal a compact, reliable, and most importantly inexpensive machine for metal processing. Such equipment allows you to perform many, both simple and complex operations related to the manufacture of metal parts, starting with boring holes and ending with making metal blanks of unusual shapes.

    Of course, if your financial situation allows it, then you don’t have to bother making a lathe with your own hands. However, factory equipment has impressive dimensions. and placing it in a garage or small utility room will be problematic. Therefore the only thing the right decision is the manufacture of metalworking equipment with your own hands according to your own dimensions, which will meet all the requirements.

    Homemade assembled machine for processing metal products that will be manufactured, taking into account all the features of its use will have simple controls, don't take up much usable space indoors and feature simple and at the same time reliable operation. On such a metal lathe you can easily process any workpieces small sizes of steel.

    Design and operating principle of a lathe

    Before you start assembling metalworking equipment with your own hands, it is important to familiarize yourself with the main components and mechanisms of a metal lathe. The design of the simplest equipment is mandatory includes the following elements:

    The components of a homemade lathe are placed on the bed. In the case of a do-it-yourself unit, it is a metal frame. The tailstock moves along the frame base. In turn, the purpose of the headstock is to house the basic mechanism that rotates the equipment. Moreover, this element has a fixed structure. A transmission mechanism is installed on the frame connecting the driving center with an electric motor. Through this central device rotational motion is transmitted to the metal workpiece to be processed.

    The bed of a metal lathe, assembled by hand, in most cases made from wooden blocks. In addition to wood, you can use metal corners or steel profiles. The material from which the frame will be made is special significance does not, the main thing is that the centers of the equipment are securely and motionlessly attached to the base.

    Almost any electric motor, even with insignificant power ratings, can be installed on homemade metalworking equipment. However, it is important to understand that a low-power motor may not be able to cope with the rotation of bulky metal workpieces at the required speed, which will lead to a decrease in the quality of the work performed. Low-power engines are best used if you plan to process wood parts on a lathe.

    The communication of rotational motion from the electric motor to the main unit of the machine occurs through a friction, belt or chain type transmission. At the same time, belt drive is considered the most popular, since has a low cost with high reliability. I would like to note that some home craftsmen assemble equipment in which a transmission mechanism is not provided, and the working tool is fixed directly to the electric motor shaft.

    Features of homemade machines

    In order to prevent increased vibration of the metal workpiece being processed, it is important to ensure that the driving and driven center structures are placed on the same axis. If you plan to assemble the machine with your own hands only with a leading center, then it is necessary to provide in advance for the installation of a special cam mechanism - a chuck or a faceplate.

    According to advice experienced specialists Installation of commutator electric motors on homemade metal processing units is not recommended. In such devices it may occur spontaneous increase in speed in the absence of a working load, which, in turn, leads to the workpiece flying out of fastening elements and possible injury to the person working at the machine. A part flying out at high speed can cause a lot of damage in the confined space of a home workshop.

    If for some reason the installation of a commutator-type electric motor is unavoidable, then it is imperative to install a special reduction gearbox. Thanks to this mechanism, it is possible to completely prevent uncontrolled acceleration of equipment in the absence of load on the workpiece.

    The most practical, convenient and inexpensive for a do-it-yourself metal lathe is considered to be an asynchronous electric motor. Such an engine has high stability during load without changing the rotation speed. which allows us to provide high quality processed metal workpieces, the width of which does not exceed 100 mm. In general, the design and power parameters of the electric motor must be selected in such a way that the part to be processed receives the necessary force during rotation.

    The driven center mechanism, located on the tailstock, can have either a stationary or rotating design. For its manufacture, a standard bolt is used, which is sharpened into a cone-shaped shape on the threaded section of the product. The prepared part is lubricated with engine oil and mounted in the internal thread in advance, cut in the tailstock. The bolt should have a free play of approximately 25–30 mm. Due to the rotation of the bolt, the workpiece is pressed between the central mechanisms.

    Lathe equipment assembly procedure

    The easiest one to make with your own hands is a bow-type metalworking machine. Using this homemade equipment allows you to turn metal and wooden products, and also, with a little improvement, sharpen knives and other cutting tools. Such equipment is very useful if a car or other moving vehicle needs to be repaired. Moreover, the assembly procedure itself provides a number of simple works .

    A homemade metal lathe, assembled with your own hands, can be used not only for its intended purpose, but also for other household needs. You can go to one of moving parts, connected to the shaft of the electric motor, install the grinding wheel and sharpen on it various instrument or grind or polish surfaces.

    Selection of power equipment

    If possible, the frame of homemade equipment should be mounted on a metal base by securely fastening it to the frame. After this, you need to install all the individual components and mechanisms of the turning unit, of which there are not so many. At the next stage, they move on to working with the power unit of the equipment. First of all, you need to select an electric motor with appropriate parameters. Since we are talking about metal processing, it is enough durable material, then the motor must be powerful:

    • when processing small metal parts, a motor with a power of 0.5 to 1 kW is sufficient;
    • for turning larger workpieces it is better to use a 1.5-2 kW motor.

    For homemade metalworking equipment, a motor from an old sewing machine or any other unnecessary one is suitable. household appliance. The choice depends on what can be found in a home workshop or will be inexpensive when purchased in a store. A hollow steel shaft or, as it is called, a spindle head is connected to the electric motor. For this purpose, a belt or any available transmission is used. The shaft is connected to a pulley secured to a key. A pulley will be needed to place the working part of the tool on it.

    Connecting power mechanisms This can be done either by hand or by seeking help from specialists. At the same time, an experienced electrician will do everything quickly and efficiently, and the owner of the machine will have complete confidence in the safety of using the electrical parts of the lathe. After graduation assembly work the equipment is ready for use. Also, if necessary, a person can expand the functionality of the equipment .

    By making a machine for processing metal parts with your own hands, a person will receive irreplaceable assistant in a home workshop. And given the versatility of such equipment, anyone can hone their skills in plumbing. A self-made machine will meet all the requirements for it and will not take up much space in the house or garage.

    Do-it-yourself homemade metal lathe: drawings, photos, videos

    Many home craftsmen are thinking about how to make their own metal lathe. This desire is explained by the fact that with the help of such a device, which will be very inexpensive, you can effectively perform a large range of turning operations, giving metal workpieces the required dimensions and shape. It would seem much easier to acquire the simplest table machine and use it in your workshop, but given the considerable cost of such equipment, it makes sense to spend time making it yourself.

    A homemade lathe is quite possible

    Using a lathe

    Lathe, which was one of the first to appear in the line of equipment for processing parts from different materials, including metal, allows you to produce products of various shapes and sizes. With the help of such a unit you can turn external and internal surfaces workpieces, drill holes and bore them to the required size, cut external or internal threads, roll to give the surface of the product the desired relief.

    A serial metal lathe is a large device, which is not so easy to operate, and its cost is very difficult to call affordable. Using such a unit as a desktop equipment is not easy, so it makes sense to make a lathe for your home workshop yourself. Using such a mini-machine, you can quickly turn workpieces made not only of metal, but also of plastic and wood.

    Such equipment processes parts that have round section: axles, tool handles, wheels, structural elements of furniture and products for any other purpose. In such devices, the workpiece is located in a horizontal plane, while it is given rotation, and the excess material is removed by a cutter securely fixed in the machine support.

    Grooving a brake disc on a homemade lathe

    Despite the simplicity of its design, such a unit requires clear coordination of the movements of all working parts so that processing is carried out with extreme precision and best quality execution.

    An example of a homemade lathe with drawings

    Let's take a closer look at one of the working options for a lathe assembled on our own, the fairly high quality of which rightfully deserves the closest attention. The author of this homemade product did not even skimp on the drawings, according to which this device and was successfully produced.

    Of course, not everyone needs such a thorough approach to business; often simpler structures are built for home needs, but as a donor for good ideas This machine fits perfectly.

    DIY lathe

    Appearance of the machine Main components Caliper, tool holder and chuck
    Side view of the tailstock Bottom view of the tailstock
    Guide shafts Caliper design Engine drive
    Drawing No. 1 Drawing No. 2 Drawing No. 3

    Structural units

    Any lathe, including a homemade one, consists of the following structural elements: supporting frame- a frame, two centers - driving and driven, two headstocks - front and rear, spindle, support, drive unit - electric motor.

    Design of a small-sized metal lathe

    All elements of the device are placed on the frame; it is the main load-bearing element lathe. The headstock is a stationary structural element on which the rotating spindle of the unit is located. In the front part of the frame there is a transmission mechanism of the machine, with the help of which its rotating elements are connected to the electric motor.

    It is thanks to this transmission mechanism that the workpiece being processed receives rotation. The tailstock, unlike the front one, can move parallel to the direction of processing; it is used to fix the free end of the workpiece being processed.

    A simple diagram of the components of a homemade woodworking machine will suggest a simple option for making a bed, headstock and tailstock

    A homemade metal lathe can be equipped with any electric motor, even if it is not of very high power, but such a motor can overheat when processing large-sized workpieces, which will lead to its stopping and, possibly, failure.

    Typically, electric motors are installed on a homemade lathe, the power of which is in the range of 800–1500 W.

    Even if such an electric motor has a small number of revolutions, the problem is solved by choosing an appropriate transmission mechanism. To transmit torque from such electric motors, belt drives are usually used; friction or chain mechanisms are very rarely used.

    Mini-lathes, which are equipped in home workshops, may not even have such a transmission mechanism in their design: the rotating chuck of the unit is fixed directly on the electric motor shaft.

    Direct drive machine

    There is one important rule: both centers of the machine, leading and driven, must be located strictly on the same axis, which will avoid vibration of the workpiece during its processing. In addition, it is necessary to ensure reliable fixation of the part, which is especially important for frontal-type models: with one leading center. The issue of such fixation is resolved using a jaw chuck or faceplate.

    In fact, you can make a lathe with your own hands using wooden frame, but, as a rule, metal profiles are used for these purposes. High rigidity of the lathe frame is required so that the accuracy of the location of the driving and driven centers is not affected by mechanical loads, and its tailstock and support with the tool move freely along the axis of the unit.

    The use of channels in the manufacture of the frame and headstock of the machine

    When assembling a metal lathe, it is important to ensure reliable fixation of all its elements, be sure to take into account the loads to which they will be subjected during operation. The dimensions of your mini-machine and what structural elements it will consist of will be influenced by the purpose of the equipment, as well as the size and shape of the workpieces that are planned to be processed on it. The power of the electric motor, which you will need to use as a drive, will depend on these parameters, as well as on the size of the planned load on the unit.

    Option for bed, headstock and drive

    To equip metal lathes, it is not recommended to choose commutator electric motors that differ in one characteristic feature. The number of shaft revolutions of such electric motors, as well as the centrifugal force that the workpiece develops, increases sharply as the load decreases, which can lead to the part simply flying out of the chuck and can seriously injure the operator.

    Such electric motors can be used if you plan to process small and light parts on your mini-machine. But even in this case, the lathe must be equipped with a gearbox that will prevent an uncontrolled increase in centrifugal force.

    Asynchronous three phase electric motor, connected to a 220 Volt network through a capacitor

    It has already been proven by practice and design calculations that for turning units on which metal workpieces up to 70 cm long and up to 10 cm in diameter will be processed, it is best to use asynchronous electric motors with a power of 800 W or more. Engines of this type are characterized by stable rotation speed when there is a load, and when it decreases, it does not increase uncontrollably.

    If you are going to make your own mini-machine for performing metal turning, then you should definitely take into account the fact that its chuck will be affected not only by transverse but also longitudinal loads. Such loads, if a belt drive is not provided, can cause destruction of the electric motor bearings, which are not designed for them.

    If it is not possible to use a belt drive, and the driving center of the device is directly connected to the electric motor shaft, then a number of measures can be taken to protect its bearings from destruction. A similar measure can be a stop that limits the longitudinal movement of the motor shaft, which can be used as a ball installed between the electric motor housing and the rear end of its shaft.

    The tailstock of the lathe houses its driven center, which can be stationary or freely rotating. Most simple design has a fixed center: it is easy to make it on the basis of a regular bolt, sharpening and grinding the part that will come into contact with the workpiece to a cone. By screwing or unscrewing such a bolt, moving along a threaded hole in the tailstock, it will be possible to adjust the distance between the centers of the equipment, thereby ensuring reliable fixation of the workpiece. This fixation is also ensured by moving the tailstock itself.

    In order for the workpiece to rotate freely in such a fixed center, the pointed part of the bolt that comes into contact with it will need to be lubricated with machine oil before starting work.

    Homemade tailstock for benchtop lathe

    Today it is not difficult to find drawings and photos of lathes from which you can independently make such equipment. Moreover, it is easy to find various videos, demonstrating the process of their manufacture. This could be a mini CNC machine or a very simple device, which, nevertheless, will give you the opportunity to quickly and with minimal labor input produce metal products of various configurations.

    The stands of a simple metal lathe can be made of wood. They will need to be securely fastened to the unit frame using bolted connections. If possible, it is better to make the frame itself from metal corners or channels, which will provide it with high reliability, but if they are not at hand, you can also choose thick wooden blocks.

    The video below shows the process self-made lathe support.

    As a unit on a machine on which it will be fixed and moved cutting tool, a handy tool made of two wooden planks, connected at an angle of 90 degrees. On the surface of the board where the tool will be placed, it is necessary to fix a sheet of metal that will protect the wood from deformation and ensure the exact location of the cutter in relation to the workpiece. It is necessary to make a slot in the supporting surface of the horizontal plank moving along the frame of the unit, due to which such movement will be quite accurate.

    To make the headstock and tailstock of your homemade lathe, you will need to select metal cylinders of the appropriate size, which are placed in bearing units installed in wooden racks. The rotation performed by the workpiece will be transmitted to it through the front center, connected by a belt drive to the electric motor. Thus, the workpiece, securely fixed between the front and rear centers, is processed using a cutter installed in the equipment tool rest.

    Another version of a homemade machine (click to enlarge)

    General view Headstock Caliper and chuck

    There should be no problems finding an electric motor that should be equipped with a mini-lathe. Even if you were unable to find a motor of the required power (500–1000 W for processing small parts, 1500–2000 W for large workpieces), then a previously used unit, previously installed on a household sewing machine, is quite suitable. In addition, it is permissible to use electric drills or grinders as a drive for compact lathes.

    As a result of such simple manipulations, you will have at your disposal a machine capable of performing the most common metal turning operations. If desired, the unit can be upgraded, expanding its functionality. Of course, it is difficult to make a CNC machine from such a device, but it can be used for boring, drilling, grinding, threading and a number of others. technological operations for metal it is quite possible.

    A do-it-yourself lathe is a unit no worse than a factory one!

    In order to make a lathe with your own hands, home craftsman You will need to understand the mechanism of its action, prepare some materials and have the patience necessary to assemble a homemade structure that will allow you to process a variety of metal products.

    1. Why do you need a homemade lathe?
    2. Design and mechanism of operation of a homemade machine
    3. Some design features"home" lathes
    4. The process of self-manufacturing a unit for turning work
    5. Tips for choosing power equipment for your machine

    1 Why do you need a homemade lathe?

    No man would refuse to have a small lathe in his house or apartment. After all, with its help you can perform many operations related to the processing of metal parts, from rolling a corrugated surface and boring holes, to cutting threads and giving the outer surfaces of parts given shapes.

    Of course, you can try to purchase a factory turning unit. But not everyone can afford such a purchase, and placing a production machine in an ordinary home can be almost impossible due to the fact that equipment for metal turning takes up a lot of space. An excellent alternative to purchasing a bulky and inconvenient factory machine is to make a simple and yet functional lathe with your own hands.

    Homemade metal lathe. assembled according to all the rules, it will have simple controls, take up minimal space, and be easy to operate. At the same time, you can easily process various metal and steel products of small geometric sizes on it, becoming a real home craftsman.

    2 Design and mechanism of operation of a homemade machine

    Before you begin creating a turning unit for household use, it would be useful to learn about its main components and the mechanism of action of such equipment. A basic machine consists of the following parts:

    • two grandmothers;
    • frame;
    • two centers: one of them is the slave, the other is the leader;
    • stop for working cutting tool;
    • electric drive.

    The machine mechanisms are installed on the bed (in a homemade unit, its role is played by the frame). The tailstock moves along this base of the unit. The headstock is necessary to accommodate the basic rotation unit of the equipment; it is stationary. A transmission device is also mounted in the frame, connecting the driving center with the electric motor. Through this center the required rotation is transmitted to the workpiece being processed.

    The bed of a “home” machine is usually made of wooden beam, you can also use corners or profiles made of steel (metal). It doesn’t matter what material you choose for the frame, the main thing is that it firmly fixes the installation centers.

    It is possible to install almost any electric motor on a homemade turning unit, even a very small one, but it is worth understanding that it technical characteristics may not be enough for high-quality processing of parts, especially if we're talking about about metalworking equipment. The low power of the electric motor will not allow you to work with metal, but even a motor with a power of about two hundred watts can handle wooden workpieces.

    Rotation in homemade machines can be achieved through a chain, friction or belt drive. The last of these is used most often, as it is characterized by maximum reliability. In addition, there are also designs of units made independently, in which a transmission device is not provided at all. In them, the driving center or chuck for fastening the working tool is placed directly on the electric motor shaft. Videos of the operation of such a unit can be easily found on the Internet.

    3 Some design features of “home” lathes

    To prevent vibration of the workpieces, the driving and driven centers should be mounted on the same axis. If you plan to make a machine with only one center (with a leading one), the design of such equipment will need to provide for the possibility of fastening the product with a jaw chuck or faceplate.

    Experts do not recommend installing commutator-type electric motors on homemade turning units. In the absence of workloads, their speed can increase without the operator’s command, which leads to the part flying out of the fastening elements. It is clear that such a “flying” blank can cause a lot of trouble in a limited space - in an apartment or in a private garage.

    If you still plan to install a commutator motor, make sure to equip it with a special gearbox. This mechanism eliminates the risk of uncontrolled acceleration of parts processed on the machine.

    The optimal type of drive for a homemade unit is a conventional asynchronous motor. It is characterized by high stability under loads (constant rotation speed) and provides high-quality processing of parts with a width of up to 70 and a cross-section of up to 10 centimeters. In general, the type and power of the electric motor must be selected so that the product being turned receives sufficient rotational force.

    The driven center, which, as noted, is located on the tailstock, can be stationary or rotating. It is made from a standard bolt - you just need to sharpen the end of its threaded section to a cone. The bolt is treated with machine oil and inserted into the thread (internal) cut in the tailstock. Its stroke should be approximately 2.5–3 centimeters. The rotation of the bolt makes it possible to press the workpiece between two centers of the unit.

    4 The process of self-manufacturing a unit for turning work

    Next, we will talk about how to make a homemade bow-type lathe, and also provide a video of this simple process. Using this installation, you can grind metal and other materials, sharpen knives and other cutting devices. The unit, among other things, will become you best assistant in cases where you yourself are repairing your car.

    First, we need to cut out two strong racks of wood and attach bolts to them using nuts. The frame of a homemade machine will be attached to them, which can also be made of wood (if possible, it is better to use some kind of metal for the frame - a steel angle or channel).

    It is imperative to make a special tool rest that increases the level of stability of the cutter for turning metal parts. Such a handhold is a structure of two boards glued at right angles (or connected with small screws). Moreover, a strip of thin metal is attached to the bottom board, which is necessary to protect the working tool from changing its shape during rotation. A slot is cut in a plank standing horizontally, which makes it possible to control the movements of the tool rest.

    You shouldn’t have any problems with making the tailstock and the front headstock - the essence is clear, and if any difficulties arise, you can watch a video on the Internet where this process is shown and described in great detail. Headstock cartridges, as a rule, are made from ready-made cylinders with a cross-section suitable for general design machine, or by welding sheet iron.

    It is advisable to install the frame of a homemade installation on a duralumin base, securely fasten the frame to it, and mount all the components of the machine (there are not so many of them). After this, we begin to work on the power unit of our equipment. First of all, we select a suitable electric motor. To process metal products, it must be powerful enough.

    Many types of metal machines, with or without CNC, are purchased from manufacturers of such equipment only in cases of serial and large-scale production due to their high cost. That's why for home use and small-scale production, many decide to create a machine with their own hands.

    Application area

    Over the years, metal cutting machines, with or without CNC, have been used to produce parts of various shapes. At the same time, a huge number of models were created: a metal lathe, a milling or drilling machine with CNC or without a similar system. Moreover, each model is created for specific tasks.

    A metal lathe is used to produce parts cylindrical. CNC allows you to automate the process to a large extent. The parts are used both in domestic conditions and in industrial production. Industrial machine for metal, CNC or C manual control, expensive and big. That is why many people decide to create such a structure with their own hands.

    Design features

    In order to create a lathe, you need to know what it consists of. It consists of the following parts:

    1. frame;
    2. tailstock and front headstock;
    3. electric drive;
    4. support with cutter holder;
    5. engine.

    In addition, the design may include other elements, depending on the purpose of the metal lathe.

    The possibility of creating a CNC version is not considered, but regular option can be constructed like this:

    1. create a drawing with the planned arrangement of all elements, create seats for them;
    2. we remove the electric motor and install it;
    3. according to calculations, we create a belt drive in the headstock;
    4. we connect the drive and the driven center, fasten the jaw chuck;
    5. we attach the tool holder, under which a slide is created for feeding the tool;
    6. a slide is also created to move the tailstock.

    Precision machining equipment, such as CNC, is created using precision equipment.

    The dream of every DIYer, modeler and home handyman- lathe. Everyone who managed to privatize socialist property today has huge bonuses in the form of lathes, drilling machines and other small-scale mechanization equipment in their garages and workshops. Those who couldn’t do it have to make the machines with their own hands, because minimum cost a small, average, well-turned Chinese device corresponds to the annual salary of our non-deputy. There is only one way out - to do it yourself, which is what we will do now.

    Tabletop lathe, main components

    A do-it-yourself mini metal lathe is made on the basis of what was done in production conditions, but for one reason or another it no longer serves its intended purpose. This means that the main components and assemblies will have to be taken from other devices that are completely unsuitable for this, adapt them and use all your ingenuity.

    So, the main parts of a turning-screw-cutting or turning-milling machine should be:


    Actually, these are only the main parts that have to be made or selected from what is at hand.

    Parameters, advantages and disadvantages

    The main parameters of a lathe, which will be made by hand - linear dimensions, power and processing accuracy. We are not talking about a specific device now, since everyone sets their own tasks, and in the drawings and diagrams presented on the page you can find a suitable option for yourself. We are talking about the idea of ​​creating a tool in principle and its main parameters.

    So, depending on the distance from the guides the center of the spindle and tailstock will be, the diameter of the workpiece will be determined. The length of the workpiece actually depends on the degree of freedom of movement of the tailstock along the guides. The same applies to the feeding device, which must correspond to the dimensions of the maximum diameter of the workpiece.

    But you need to be prepared for the fact that a homemade lathe will not be able to provide high accuracy processing and high speed. This will be a device for making parts with a low accuracy class. Let’s figure it out further on what this depends on.

    Machining on lathes, diagrams and drawings

    Briefly about the control system, we can say that if knowledge and skills in engineering radio modeling allow, you can always make a simple screw-cutting lathe or with a numerical program controlled. CNC lathes allow you to automate the same type of work and they are needed if the master has to make a large number of identical workpieces according to a template.

    For the most part, desktop machines are designed to perform one-time work, so the use complex systems programming is hardly justified on machines with a low degree of accuracy.

    Precision and performance of a homemade device

    If the task is to create a machine for processing metals by cutting with a high degree of accuracy, you need Special attention pay attention to the guides and the bed. Many people make structural elements from wood, it’s fun budget solution, but it will not provide the required accuracy simply because the material of the bed and guides must be harder than the workpiece.

    Therefore, all beds and guides for metal lathes are made only of metal. It is advisable to use factory guides, but if this is not possible, which happens most often, then you have to use rolled metal, as in the example we gave from an ancient English magazine. That is, all the parts that are responsible for accuracy and strength must be made in production conditions, such as this option, where automobile connecting rods are used as centering elements.

    Carrying out a metal lathe is creative and unhurried work. You need to think through all the details a hundred times, draw a couple of dozen drawings, and only then start manufacturing the machine in metal. But in any case, direct hands and ingenuity will lead to the successful creation of a practical and functional lathe. Good luck in the field of small engineering!

    A lathe is needed for the manufacture and processing of metal parts. Professional equipment is quite expensive, so in order to save money, you can make a homemade metal lathe with your own hands. This can be done in several ways, and drawings of such a product are easily found on the Internet. You can use improvised materials for production, but the size of the machine can be any.

    Any homemade lathe consists of the following elements:

    • drive is the main part of the mechanism, which is responsible for its power. Drive selection required power is one of the most complex tasks. In small do-it-yourself metal lathes, you can use a drive from a conventional washing machine or drill. Typically, the power of this element starts from 200 W, and the number of revolutions per minute starts from 1500;
    • bed - a supporting frame of the structure, which can be made of wooden blocks or steel angles. The frame must be characterized by high strength, otherwise the entire structure may fall apart from vibrations during operation;

    • tailstock - made of a steel plate and a steel angle welded to it. The plate rests against the guides of the bed, and the main purpose of the tailstock of a do-it-yourself lathe is to fix the metal part during processing;
    • headstock - a part similar to the tailstock, but mounted on a movable frame;
    • master and slave centers;
    • caliper - a thrust mechanism for the working part.

    Torque from the engine to the working part of the machine can be transmitted in several ways. Some people prefer to directly install the working part on the motor shaft - this saves space and allows you to save on spare parts. If this option is not possible, torque can be transmitted using friction, belt or chain transmission. Each of these options has its own advantages and disadvantages.

    The belt drive for the electric motor is the cheapest and has sufficient characteristics high level reliability. To make it, you can use a belt for an electric motor, removed from any other mechanism. The disadvantage of a belt drive is that over time the belt can wear out and will have to be changed more often the more intensely you work with the machine.

    Chain transmission is more expensive and takes up more space, but will also last much longer than a belt one. Friction transmission has intermediate characteristics between belt and chain.

    Helpful advice! When assembling a lathe, choose the type of transmission that will best suit the task at hand. For example, for a do-it-yourself mini-lathe, it is better to install the working part directly on the shaft.

    Do-it-yourself lathe support: drawings, how to make it from scrap materials

    The caliper is one of the most important parts of a homemade lathe - the quality of the future part, as well as the amount of time and effort you will spend on its manufacture, depends on it. This part is located on a special slide, which moves along guides located on the frame. The caliper can move in three directions:

    • longitudinal - the working part of the machine moves along the workpiece. Longitudinal movement is used to turn threads into a part or to remove a layer of material from the surface of a metal workpiece;

    • transverse - movement perpendicular to the axis of the workpiece. Used for turning recesses and holes;
    • inclined - movement under different angles for turning recesses on the surface of the workpiece.

    When making a lathe support with your own hands, it is worth considering the fact that this part subject to wear as a result of vibrations occurring during operation. Because of them, the fasteners become loose, play occurs, and all this affects the quality of the manufactured part. In order to avoid such problems, the caliper must be regularly adjusted and adjusted.

    Adjustment of a homemade support for a lathe with your own hands is carried out according to gaps, play and seals. Adjusting the gaps is necessary when the screw responsible for moving the part in the longitudinal and transverse planes has worn out. As a result of friction, the caliper begins to loosen under load, which significantly reduces the accuracy of the part. Gaps can be eliminated by inserting wedges between the guides and the carriage. The play of the part is eliminated using a fixing screw.

    If the oil seals in your machine are worn out, they should be thoroughly washed and soaked in fresh machine oil. In case of critical wear, it is better to completely replace the oil seals with new ones.

    Caliper structure: 1 - caliper carriage; 2 - lead screw; 3 - transverse slide of the caliper; 4 - rotating part of the caliper; 5 - guides of the rotating part; 6 - tool holder; 7 - screw for securing the tool holder; 8 - screws for fastening; 9 - handle for turning the tool holder; 10 - nuts; 11 - upper part of the caliper; 12 - transverse guides of the carriage; 13 - handle for moving the upper part of the caliper; 14 - handle for moving the cross slide; 15 - handle for turning on the feed of the caliper from the lead screw; 16 - handwheel for longitudinal movement of the caliper; 17 - apron

    Homemade metal lathe with your own hands: assembly procedure

    The mechanism is assembled in the following order:

    1. The machine frame is assembled from metal beams and channels. If you are going to work with large parts, then the materials for assembling the frame must be used to withstand a large load. For example, if you plan to work with metal workpieces longer than 50 mm, the thickness of the materials for the frame should start from 3 mm for corners and from 30 mm for rods.
    2. Longitudinal shafts with guides are installed on the channels. Shafts can be welded or bolted.
    3. The headstock is being made. To make the headstock of a lathe with your own hands, a hydraulic cylinder with a wall thickness of 6 mm is used. Two bearings must be pressed into the cylinder.
    4. The shaft is being laid. For this purpose, bearings with a large internal diameter are used.
    5. Lubricating fluid is poured into the hydraulic cylinder.
    6. The pulley and caliper with guides are installed.
    7. The electric drive is being installed.

    In addition, from the do-it-yourself drawings of a metal lathe, it can be seen that to increase the stability of the cutting mechanism, a tool rest is made, and a thin strip of metal is fixed to the lower part of the structure. The latter serves to protect the working part of the machine from deformation during operation.

    Helpful advice! A metal lathe, assembled by yourself, can be used not only for its intended purpose, but also for grinding and polishing metal parts. To do this, to electric shaft The grinding wheel is attached.

    Selecting an electric motor for the machine

    The most important part of a homemade metal lathe, a video of the making of which can be easily found on the Internet, is the electric motor. It is with its help that the movement of the working part of the machine is carried out. Accordingly, the power of the entire structure depends on the power of this mechanism. It is selected depending on the size of the metal workpieces you plan to work with.

    If you plan to work on a machine with small parts, a motor with a power of up to 1 kW is quite suitable for this. It can be removed from the old one sewing machine or any other similar electrical appliance. To work with large spare parts you will need a motor with a power of 1.5-2 kW.

    When assembling a homemade metal lathe according to ready-made drawings, keep in mind that all electrical parts of the structure must be reliably insulated. If you do not have the necessary experience with electrical equipment, it is better to seek help in connecting to a specialist. This way you will be confident in the safety of operation and the reliability of the design.

    Making a lathe from a drill with your own hands

    If you want to save on spare parts and greatly simplify the task of assembling a homemade lathe, you can use a regular electric drill as a drive. This one has constructive solution there are a number of advantages:

    1. Opportunity quick assembly and disassembling the structure - the drill is easily detached from the frame and can be used for its intended purpose.
    2. Easy to carry and transport the machine – a good option, if you have to work with metal workpieces in the garage and on the street.
    3. Savings - the drill not only acts as an electric motor, but also eliminates the need to use a gear, and also allows you to use replaceable attachments as a working tool.

    Of course there is also negative sides at a lathe from a drill. How can processing of large parts be possible using this tool? This is practically impossible, since the drill has a relatively small torque and big number rpm Of course, you can increase these parameters if you still install a belt drive and use it to transmit torque from the drill to the spindle, but this will greatly complicate the design, the main advantage of which is simplicity and compactness.

    Diagram of the device of a homemade lathe based on a drill: 1 - fastening to a table or; 2 - front support; 3 - support for the workpiece; 4 - rear support

    Making a homemade tabletop metal lathe based on a drill makes sense in cases where you do not need to carry out large-scale work, and only need to turn small parts.

    To make a metal lathe based on an electric drill, you will need the same parts as for a conventional design, with the exception of the electric motor and headstock. The role of the latter is also played by a drill. Given the compact design, a regular table or workbench can be used as a bed, on which all components of the machine will be fixed. The drill itself is secured to the structure using a clamp and clamp.

    Helpful advice! The functionality of a lathe based on an electric drill can be significantly expanded by adding various attachments and additional accessories to its design.

    Using a homemade lathe, you can not only turn parts, but also apply paint to a rotating workpiece, wind wire on a transformer, make spiral notches on the surface of the part, and perform many other actions. In addition, if you assemble a copier attachment for the machine, you can use it to quickly and effortlessly produce small identical parts.

    Features of do-it-yourself metal lathes, video instructions as a way to avoid mistakes

    Like any other equipment, homemade lathes have their own characteristics that must be taken into account during assembly and operation. For example, when working with large parts or when using powerful electric motor strong vibrations occur, which can lead to serious errors when processing the part. To get rid of vibrations, the driving and driven centers of the machine must be installed on the same axis. And if you plan to install only the leading center, a cam mechanism must be attached to it.

    It is not recommended to install a commutator motor in do-it-yourself metal lathes. It is prone to a spontaneous increase in the number of revolutions, which can lead to flyout of the part. This, in turn, can lead to work-related injuries or property damage. If you cannot do without installing a commutator motor, you must install a gearbox along with it to reduce the speed.

    The ideal motor option for a homemade lathe is asynchronous. It does not increase the speed of rotation during operation, is resistant to heavy loads and allows you to work with metal workpieces with a width of up to 100 mm.

    Rules for installing and operating any type of electric motor for a lathe can be viewed in numerous video instructions on the Internet. With their help, you will not only avoid common mistakes during assembly, but also save time and effort due to the clarity of the material.

    Safety precautions when working with a homemade lathe

    When working with the structure, certain safety precautions must be observed. So, after assembling the machine, you need to check its functionality. The spindle should rotate easily and without hesitation, the front and rear centers should be aligned common axis. The center of symmetry of the rotating part must coincide with the axis of its rotation.

    Any video of a do-it-yourself lathe shows that after installing the electric motor, it is covered with a special casing. The latter serves not only to protect the machine operator, but also to protect the motor itself from dust, metal particles and dirt. For a machine made on the basis of an electric drill, such a casing is not needed.

    Helpful advice! If you are planning to install a structure based on a powerful electric motor, then be sure to make sure that your electrical network has enough power to operate it. At home, it is better to get by with a motor from household appliances, which will definitely work from the voltage in your outlet.

    You should also adhere to the following safety rules:

    1. The working tool must be positioned parallel to the surface of the workpiece being processed. Otherwise, it may come off, causing the machine to break down.
    2. If you are machining end planes, the part should rest against the tailstock. It is very important to maintain alignment, otherwise you risk getting a defective part.
    3. To protect your eyes from metal shavings and particles, you can build a special shield or simply use safety glasses.
    4. After work, the structure must be cleaned, removing metal filings and other production waste. Be careful not to let small parts fall into the motor.

    Options for upgrading a homemade lathe

    If you need a machine that can not only turn, but also sand and paint the workpiece, the basic machine can be easily modified. It is best to do this for a design based on an electric drill, since it is easiest to replace the working part.

    There are several popular modifications of a metal lathe. How to make a cone-shaped hole? To do this, you need to attach two files to the base so that they form a trapezoid. After this it is mounted spring mechanism, which feeds files forward and at an angle, which allows you to drill cone-shaped holes into parts.

    In addition, to work with metal parts of different lengths, you can make a machine with a collapsible base. Using several boards or metal corners, you can move the working tool closer or further to the fasteners holding the part, and also change the size of the gap between the fasteners. It is most convenient to make such a design on the basis of a regular table or workbench.

    If you attach a grinding wheel to the electric motor as a working tool, using the machine you can not only polish the surface of the part, but also sharpen knives, scissors and other household tools. Thus, the lathe turns into a convenient multifunctional mechanism.

    Assembling a lathe at home is a fairly simple task, which is further simplified by numerous video instructions and drawings from the Internet. At the same time, the structure can be assembled literally from scrap parts, using old household appliances and waste from installation and construction production.

    The main advantage of self-assembly is cost savings. In addition, it is worth noting the ability to independently adjust the dimensions and power of the device in order to adapt it to your needs. It can be not only large, but also very miniature, designed for processing small parts.

    Many home craftsmen are thinking about how to make their own metal lathe. This desire is explained by the fact that with the help of such a device, which will be very inexpensive, you can effectively perform a large range of turning operations, giving metal workpieces the required dimensions and shape. It would seem much easier to purchase a simple tabletop machine and use it in your workshop, but given the considerable cost of such equipment, it makes sense to spend time making it yourself.

    A homemade lathe is quite possible

    Using a lathe

    A lathe, which was one of the first to appear in the line of equipment for processing parts made of different materials, including metal, allows you to produce products of various shapes and sizes. Using such a unit, you can turn the external and internal surfaces of the workpiece, drill holes and bore them to the required size, cut external or internal threads, and perform knurling to give the surface of the product the desired relief.

    A serial metal lathe is a large device, which is not so easy to operate, and its cost is very difficult to call affordable. It is not easy to use such a unit as desktop equipment, so it makes sense to do it yourself. Using such a mini-machine, you can quickly turn workpieces made not only of metal, but also of plastic and wood.

    Such equipment processes parts with a round cross-section: axles, tool handles, wheels, structural elements of furniture and products for any other purpose. In such devices, the workpiece is located in a horizontal plane, while it is given rotation, and the excess material is removed by a cutter securely fixed in the machine support.

    Despite the simplicity of its design, such a unit requires clear coordination of the movements of all working parts in order for processing to be carried out with the utmost precision and the best quality of workmanship.

    An example of a homemade lathe with drawings

    Let's take a closer look at one of the working options for a lathe assembled on our own, the fairly high quality of which rightfully deserves the closest attention. The author of this homemade product did not even skimp on the drawings, according to which this device was successfully manufactured.

    Of course, not everyone needs such a thorough approach to business; often simpler designs are built for home needs, but as a donor for good ideas, this machine is perfectly suited.

    Appearance of the machine Main components Caliper, tool holder and chuck
    Side view of the tailstock Bottom view of the tailstock
    Guide shafts Caliper design Engine drive
    Drawing No. 1 Drawing No. 2 Drawing No. 3

    Structural units

    Any lathe, including a homemade one, consists of the following structural elements: a supporting frame - a bed, two centers - a drive and a driven, two headstocks - front and rear, a spindle, a support, a drive unit - an electric motor.

    All elements of the device are placed on the bed; it is the main load-bearing element of the lathe. The headstock is a stationary structural element on which the rotating spindle of the unit is located. In the front part of the frame there is a transmission mechanism of the machine, with the help of which its rotating elements are connected to the electric motor.

    It is thanks to this transmission mechanism that the workpiece being processed receives rotation. The tailstock, unlike the front one, can move parallel to the direction of processing; it is used to fix the free end of the workpiece being processed.

    A homemade metal lathe can be equipped with any electric motor, even if it is not of very high power, but such a motor can overheat when processing large-sized workpieces, which will lead to its stopping and, possibly, failure.

    Typically, electric motors are installed on a homemade lathe, the power of which is in the range of 800–1500 W.

    Even if such an electric motor has a small number of revolutions, the problem is solved by choosing an appropriate transmission mechanism. To transmit torque from such electric motors, belt drives are usually used; friction or chain mechanisms are very rarely used.

    Mini-lathes, which are equipped in home workshops, may not even have such a transmission mechanism in their design: the rotating chuck of the unit is fixed directly on the electric motor shaft.

    There is one important rule: both centers of the machine, leading and driven, must be located strictly on the same axis, which will avoid vibration of the workpiece during its processing. In addition, it is necessary to ensure reliable fixation of the part, which is especially important for frontal-type models: with one leading center. The issue of such fixation is resolved using a jaw chuck or faceplate.

    In fact, you can make a lathe with your own hands with a wooden frame, but, as a rule, metal profiles are used for these purposes. High rigidity of the lathe frame is required so that the accuracy of the location of the driving and driven centers is not affected by mechanical loads, and its tailstock and support with the tool move freely along the axis of the unit.

    When assembling a metal lathe, it is important to ensure reliable fixation of all its elements, be sure to take into account the loads to which they will be subjected during operation. The dimensions of your mini-machine and what structural elements it will consist of will be influenced by the purpose of the equipment, as well as the size and shape of the workpieces that are planned to be processed on it. The power of the electric motor, which you will need to use as a drive, will depend on these parameters, as well as on the size of the planned load on the unit.

    To equip metal lathes, it is not recommended to choose commutator electric motors that differ in one characteristic feature. The number of shaft revolutions of such electric motors, as well as the centrifugal force that the workpiece develops, increases sharply as the load decreases, which can lead to the part simply flying out of the chuck and can seriously injure the operator.

    Such electric motors can be used if you plan to process small and light parts on your mini-machine. But even in this case, it is necessary to equip it with a gearbox that will prevent an uncontrolled increase in centrifugal force.

    It has already been proven by practice and design calculations that for turning units on which metal workpieces up to 70 cm long and up to 10 cm in diameter will be processed, it is best to use asynchronous electric motors with a power of 800 W or more. Engines of this type are characterized by stable rotation speed when there is a load, and when it decreases, it does not increase uncontrollably.

    If you are going to make your own mini-machine for performing metal turning, then you should definitely take into account the fact that its chuck will be affected not only by transverse but also longitudinal loads. Such loads, if a belt drive is not provided, can cause destruction of the electric motor bearings, which are not designed for them.

    If it is not possible to use a belt drive, and the driving center of the device is directly connected to the electric motor shaft, then a number of measures can be taken to protect its bearings from destruction. A similar measure can be a stop that limits the longitudinal movement of the motor shaft, which can be used as a ball installed between the electric motor housing and the rear end of its shaft.

    The tailstock of the lathe houses its driven center, which can be stationary or freely rotating. The simplest design has a fixed center: it is easy to make on the basis of a regular bolt, sharpening and grinding the part that will come into contact with the workpiece to a cone. By screwing or unscrewing such a bolt, moving along a threaded hole in the tailstock, it will be possible to adjust the distance between the centers of the equipment, thereby ensuring reliable fixation of the workpiece. This fixation is also ensured by moving the tailstock itself.

    In order for the workpiece to rotate freely in such a fixed center, the pointed part of the bolt that comes into contact with it will need to be lubricated with machine oil before starting work.

    Today it is not difficult to find drawings and photos of lathes from which you can independently make such equipment. Moreover, it is easy to find various videos demonstrating the process of their manufacture. This could be a mini CNC machine or a very simple device, which, nevertheless, will give you the opportunity to quickly and with minimal labor input produce metal products of various configurations.

    The stands of a simple metal lathe can be made of wood. They will need to be securely fastened to the unit frame using bolted connections. If possible, it is better to make the frame itself from metal corners or channels, which will provide it with high reliability, but if they are not at hand, you can also choose thick wooden blocks.

    The video below shows the process of making a lathe support yourself.

    The unit on such a machine on which the cutting tool will be fixed and moved will be a tool rest made from two wooden planks connected at an angle of 90 degrees. On the surface of the board where the tool will be placed, it is necessary to fix a sheet of metal that will protect the wood from deformation and ensure the exact location of the cutter in relation to the workpiece. It is necessary to make a slot in the supporting surface of the horizontal plank moving along the frame of the unit, due to which such movement will be quite accurate.