How to make a large Russian brick stove. DIY Russian stove. Row masonry process

Our culture has always had a special, reverent attitude towards the Russian stove. How does it differ from other stove designs, how to build a real Russian stove - let's try to figure it out.

The Russian stove is a multifunctional device. This includes heating rooms in the winter cold, and hot, very tasty and healthy food prepared according to ancient traditions, and the opportunity to preserve the harvest thanks to drying, and household amenities in the form hot water.

Of course, it cannot be said that the Russian stove is an ideal device that does not have its weaknesses. To successfully cook food in it, the housewife must have considerable dexterity - not every modern lady can handle the handle and pots. The stove needs to be lit every morning, which means someone needs to chop the wood. The disadvantage of a stove as a heating device is that the heat is released at a level above the hearth, that is, almost a meter from the floor. Modern types of stoves are designed in such a way that smoke circulation channels are located in the lower part, and such a stove is heated to its entire height. The design may include a cast iron stove for cooking.

The Russian stove comes in three sizes: 231x160, 213x147 and 178x124 cm. Of course, it is quite possible to deviate from these standards, and the average stove measures approximately 213 cm in length, 142 cm in width and 180 cm in height. This is enough for cooking and heating a room of 30 m2. It consists of the following elements (let's start from the bottom):

1. Podpechek (custody). It is used for storing and drying firewood.
2. A cold stove is a small recess in which dishes are stored.
3. The pole is the space in front of the furnace: here you can place the pot taken out of the oven.
4. Below is the floor of the cooking chamber. It has a slight slope towards the mouth to make it easier to move heavy dishes. It must be sanded thoroughly.
5. The crucible, or cooking chamber, is the place where firewood is placed and food is cooked. The roof of the furnace also slopes forward. Thus, hot gases accumulate under the ceiling of the cooking chamber, warming up the entire oven and, in particular, the stove bench.
6. Overpipe is a chamber located above the pole. Above it is the chimney pipe.
7. A samovar (dushnik) is a hole going into the chimney and intended to “connect” the samovar pipe. This is an “optional” device that is not required for the oven.
8. A view is a door that completely covers the chimney. Through it you can get to the damper - a metal plate that moves in a horizontal plane, regulating the draft.
9. The bench is a horizontal surface located behind the chimney, above the roof of the furnace. This distinctive feature Russian stove - you can sleep on it.

1 - underbowl; 2 - cold stove; 3 - pole; 4 - under; 5 - crucible; 6 — overpipe; 7 - choke; 8 - chimney; 9 — view; 10 - damper; 11 — bed

The most common nowadays is the improved Russian stove. Its difference is in the heating of the underfloor area, which makes heating the premises more comfortable. Cooking in it is also more convenient, because in the summer, when there is no need to heat the room, such a stove works like a hob. Fuel combustion occurs in a small firebox, and exhaust gases go directly into the chimney, while in winter they pass through all channels, heating the body of the stove. This happens thanks to the timely installation and removal of the “summer” furnace damper. In addition, this furnace has a water heating tank. Its design was developed by Russian engineer Joseph Podgorodnikov at the beginning of the last century, and it is called “Teplushka”. Its dimensions are 1290x1290x2380 mm. These are the types of stoves that can most often be found in the homes of rural residents. It can heat a room up to 35 square meters. m.

How and what is the Russian stove “Kolkhoz Teprushka” made from?

As with any other furnace, refractory bricks made from fireclay clay are used to lay the firebox. The rest of the structure is made of ceramic bricks.

Each oven has metal, or more precisely, cast iron parts - doors and dampers. They also need to be prepared in the right amount. We will need:

1. Doors: firebox 250x205 mm, blower 250x140 - 2 pcs., cleanout 130x140 - 2 pcs., ventilation of any size for the chimney.
2. Grate 380x250 mm.
3. Valves: 260x260, 180x140, 140x140 mm.
4. View with a diameter of 230 mm.
5. The furnace damper is 450x380 mm.
6. Water heating box 500x120x280 mm.
7. Stove with two burners 400x700.
8. Steel strips: 1000x50x12 and 1430x25x2 mm.

For laying some elements - arches and vaults - you will need templates that should be easily disassembled. They are made from wooden and plywood parts.

Subtleties of preparing masonry mortar

Rows 13-16: The formation of the oven walls continues. The mouth of the furnace is blocked.

17th row: a gradual narrowing of the furnace arch and expansion of the chimney begins. The back wall of the furnace is strengthened with a steel tie.

18th row: the roof of the furnace is covered, the laying of the front wall of the furnace begins, forming the overtube.

To lay the roof of the furnace, you will again need to build a template - formwork. It consists of two rectangular frames on which plywood parts with a semicircular top rest - circles. So that the structure can be disassembled from the outside, the circles are attached to removable pins, and to prevent it from folding inward ahead of time, several spacers are inserted between the frames. A flexible flooring is made on top of the circles, assembled from thin boards using ropes or belts.

19th row: the front wall of the crucible is strengthened with a screed; the construction of the walls above the crucible continues, forming a space for backfilling.

20th row: the roof of the furnace is filled with sand and compacted well. This is done in order to increase its heat capacity and ensure high-quality baking of bread, etc.

21st row: the stove is closed, the overpipe gradually narrows towards the chimney.

Rows 22-23: laying the chimney and narrowing the chimney continues.

24th row: the overpipe is blocked by a ventilation flap.

25-26th rows: the space above the overpipe gradually connects with the chimney and narrows.

Further masonry is carried out depending on the height of the room: the outside is narrowed by a step in front of the ceiling, after which a pipe is formed that passes through the ceilings and roof. In the space between the ceiling and the roof, as well as above it, the masonry is made using cement-sand mortar.

Now the oven is ready. All that remains is to lay the pipe above the roof surface - and you can heat it! The native Russian stove will feed you, warm you up, and put you to sleep - just know, add some firewood.

A classic Russian stove equipped with a stove bench is considered a very unique design. It can be found in many private city and village houses. It is used not only as a heating structure, but also as a place for drying things or relaxing in warmth and comfort.

Features of the Russian stove

It is relatively easy to build a Russian stove with your own hands, unlike other similar structures. But before you start, you need to familiarize yourself with its structure and operating principle.

Since ancient times, Russian stoves were built using different technologies and could have absolutely great friend from another form. Some models can even be considered masterpieces of art. The sizes of such structures also vary, but the traditional stove had the following characteristics:

1. Length - about 213 cm or 3 arshins
2. Width - about 142 cm or 2 arshins
3. Height - about 180 cm or 2.5 arshins

If you build a classic stove of the specified size, it can easily heat a room area 35-40 sq. m. Place a similar structure in the corner of the room near the doorway.

Click to enlarge

It is recommended to start laying on a foundation that is built from broken bricks or rubble stones. In Old Russian times, oak or pine piles were placed underneath. It is recommended to equip each model with a firebox in which dry firewood or various equipment will be stored.

We prepare everything you need

To build a Russian stove with your own hands, you need to prepare all the necessary building material for the work:

• Fireproof and fireclay bricks
• Sand and clay for masonry mixture
• Doors, grate, valves and other metal products
• Asbestos cord
• Soft wire

If you have a task to make heating in a private, country house, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with

The set of tools can be called absolutely standard for any stove maker:

1. Master OK
2. Level and roulette
3. Plumb lines
4. Solution container
5. Hammer and mallet
6. Bulgarian

For a Russian stove, the masonry mortar must have special heat resistance characteristics. The composition recommended by the masters is as follows:

• 1 part by volume clean water
• From 3 to 5 volume parts of river seeded calcined sand
• 3 volume parts of the fattest clay, kept in water for 24 hours

If the greasy solution begins to crack, it should be covered with a thinner clay solution. Cement or lime is not recommended.

If you need a heating stove with high efficiency, we recommend that you pay attention to it; it won’t be difficult to make it yourself

Do-it-yourself ordering and step-by-step laying of a Russian stove

Row 1. At the very beginning you need to lay out the trenches. It is necessary to treat the first row with responsibility, since it is the fundamental one. When laying each brick, you should check the horizontal level with a level.

The trenches are brick walls laid parallel in a kiln base at a certain interval.

Row 2. This row is laid in the same way as the previous one. However now Special attention pay attention not only to horizontal and vertical, but also to dressing.

Row 3. It is necessary to install the blower door. Elastic wire should be tied at the corners and sealed into the seams. An asbestos underlay is made around the perimeter. When laying any of the metal products, their thermal expansion must be taken into account.

Row 4. Similarly to the previous one, the fourth row is laid out, carefully tying the seams. In this case, the upper level should coincide with the level of the blower door.

Row 5. It is necessary to block the door in this row with brickwork. Three cleaning doors are also installed: one on the blower side and two on the opposite side. All of them are wrapped with asbestos cord and connected to each other by one horizontal channel. For the furnace room, the lining begins to be laid out.

Row 6. The sixth row, following the dressing, is laid in the same way as the previous one. Its upper level should be equal to the cleaning doors. The combustion chamber is separated from the ash pan by a grate. There is no need to install it particularly tightly so that it does not rest against the bricks during thermal expansion and does not bulge out.

Rows 7-9. The next three rows of the Russian stove are laid with your own hands in a similar way to each other, observing the dressing between them. On the seventh row, a firebox door is installed. As in the case of the blower, it must be reinforced with wire placed in the seams and wrapped around the perimeter with asbestos cord. Horizontal channels overlap to form blind vertical ones.

Row 10. The tenth row is aligned with the firebox door. Vertical channels can be considered practically formed.

Row 11. The door for the combustion chamber must be closed with the tenth row. Immediately you need to form 4 suction channels:

• The first is between the combustion chamber and the side blind channel
• The second - into the lifting channel from the combustion chamber
• The third and fourth - between remote blind cameras

On the eleventh row, you can begin to arrange the hailo - the transition from the combustion chamber to the smoke duct.

Row 12. Now it’s time to cover the suction channels formed in the last row. The lining should taper into a dome shape.

Rows 13-14. Both rows are laid the same way, but you need to pay attention to the dressing. The fuel chamber and blind channels, except one, must be completely blocked. The firebox in the thirteenth row is covered with bricks used for lining - it can be considered completely completed.

Row 15. It’s time to lay out the edge around the perimeter of the stove and continue forming the last vertical channel through which smoke will be removed.

The board will be required so that it is possible to pour, for example, sand onto the bed. Once warmed up, it will be an excellent remedy for joint pain. Even if the sun lounger is intended for some other purpose, you should not ignore the construction of the side.

Rows 16-20. The stove bed is complete. The next four rows continue to form a channel for the chimney, observing the dressing.

Rows 21-22. In the twenty-first row, it is necessary to install a chimney valve designed to regulate draft. In the next row it overlaps.

23-subsequent rows. Subsequent rows are intended solely to form the chimney channel.

At this point, the laying of a simple and very useful structure can be considered complete. All that remains is to decorate it in any preferred way.

DIY video on laying a Russian stove

Average cost of wood heating stoves

Advantages and disadvantages of the Russian stove

A Russian stove built with your own hands has a lot of positive features, among which are:

• High level of safety - loss of coals and sparks is unlikely, but lay a metal sheet on the floor in front of the furnace is recommended
• Healing properties - on the bed you can fall into a deep and sound sleep, after which the whole day is cheerful and clear
• Easy to use - the stove keeps heat for a very long time, about a day
• Any solid fuel can be used without affecting the furnace parameters
• Economy - efficiency at correct operation and regular cleaning of the canals reaches 65-70%
• Low cost of all materials necessary for work

However, despite numerous advantages, the Russian stove with a stove bench has some negative sides, among which it is worth highlighting:

• This type of design cannot be automated.
• If you make a mistake during construction, it can cause smoke to appear inside the room.
• One of the side effects of high efficiency is sluggish smoke circulation
• The design turns out to be quite cumbersome, sometimes it is difficult to find a suitable and large enough place for it
• The Russian stove is very heavy and will create a high load on the base or ceiling; it is built exclusively on the first floors
• It cannot operate on liquid or gaseous fuel, since it is not able to provide sufficient air flow

Another disadvantage of the original Russian stove is the heating of the middle and upper parts of the space. Thus, a kind of cold air space will be formed from below.

Let's sum it up

A simple Russian stove can be built with your own hands in a short time, but is capable of performing a lot of useful things. However, its main purpose is to warm the house and become a comfortable and cozy place to relax.

The Russian stove has a long history, and yet it has not lost its relevance to this day. Stove heating is characterized by simplicity and reliability of design, as well as versatility. The Russian stove fits well into the interior; it does not require a large amount of firewood for heating, and its correct use makes it possible to have a long service life without repairs. The task concerning the laying of a Russian stove is not simple, but with desire and knowledge of the basic principles of this process it is completely solvable.

From the history of the Russian stove

The Russian stove was preceded in the 15th century by devices that did not have a chimney, so they were heated “black”. Somewhat later, they began to remove the resulting smoke through the attic. And after some time, clay was replaced by bricks, which were pre-fired. With the advent of the 17th century, the chimney stove was invented. However, chimneys were made of wood, which quite often led to fires. A landmark year for the Russian stove is 1718, when such designs were prohibited by Peter the Great.

Russian stove

Dangerous hearths were gradually replaced by stoves equipped with pipes made of stone and having a couch, which is a place to sleep. The Russian stove was the center of peasant life. In addition to cooking and drying forest products, pottery was fired in it, and vines were prepared for weaving bast shoes. The presence of a large number of niches and various compartments in it made it possible to store household utensils. In addition to all this, the stove was used as a miniature bathhouse.

Russian stove

How does a traditional Russian stove work?

The dimensions of the Russian stove and, accordingly, its weight are significant, so it requires the construction of a fairly strong foundation. In the past, wood and stone were used for its construction, this moment- concrete and brick.

The lowest part of the oven is called the base. It contains the oven, which is a chamber designed to accommodate various utensils and firewood. The presence of such a base creates more comfortable conditions for operating the stove due to the fact that the entire structure rises slightly above the floor level. The vault, which has a semi-circular shape, covers the arches. Sand or clay is poured onto it, after which a bottom, called a bottom, is installed. For uniform combustion of fuel, the firebox is arranged in such a way that it is under a certain small angle to the back wall.

The structure of a Russian stove

The main elements of the firebox are the cooking chamber and the crucible. The front part of the firebox has a mouth, which is an opening equipped with a metal damper. A domed or gently sloping vault is the upper ceiling of the cooking chamber. The first of them reduces the load on the walls, while the other contributes to a more uniform process of heat reflection. Formwork, made of boards or metal, serves as the basis for installing the vault. The design of the chimney does not provide for any turns or horizontal sections. It has a vertical arrangement and is placed directly above the oven.

The Russian stove operates according to the following principle: fuel is burned in the chamber due to the supply of oxygen from the lower part of the mouth; combustion products move to the roof and then move along the chimney. The rate of fuel combustion depends on its moisture content. Dry wood burns faster, thereby increasing the heating rate of the stove.

Cooking is carried out after the process of burning the logs and heating the internal space of the oven is completed. During the combustion process, the temperature in the furnace reaches 600 degrees Celsius. As the wood burns, it drops to the optimal temperature for cooking various dishes of 220-250 degrees Celsius.

Choosing a location for the oven

When designing this device, the following rules should be followed:

• it is necessary that wooden structures and the smoke duct are at a distance of at least 37 mm;
• the required draft is achieved when the pipe is located at least one and a half meters from the ridge and at an elevation of at least half a meter from it;
• it is allowed to locate the chimney at the level of the ridge if the distance from it is between 1.5 and 3 meters;
• in the case where the above distance is more than three meters, then a lower position of the pipe is possible with a slope of more than 10 degrees.

Russian stove in the interior

Combining the foundations of the furnace and the building is not allowed. This is due to the fact that each structure has its own natural settlement.

The design of the house must include the installation of a stove. The optimal place for it is the central part of the house, which will make it possible to heat the maximum area.

Selecting materials and tools

Materials

For laying a Russian stove with your own hands, red solid brick is best suited. Important has a firing quality. Before starting work, smooth bricks are selected and soaked in water. This is necessary to remove air from its pores and moisturize it. With a sufficient degree of moisture, the brick will not take moisture from the mortar, which contributes to their high-quality connection with each other.

You need to choose quality brick

The component necessary for binding the masonry is clay, extracted from deep soil horizons. An important characteristic of clay is its level of fat content. At a normal level of this indicator, it is possible to avoid crack formation during the drying process of the solution. In order to keep the thickness of the seam to a minimum, small fractions of sand obtained by sifting are used in the solution.

In order to obtain the required properties of clay, it must be weathered and frozen out in the cold for several winters. In this case, it is recommended to use atmospheric water (snow, rain), which has the required softness. In addition, a couple of handfuls of small bronze or copper shavings are added to the solution.

Tool

• cutting and trimming of bricks is done with a hammer-pick;
• applying the solution and leveling it is carried out with a trowel;
• control the horizontalness of the masonry with a level;
• verticality is checked with a plumb line or a cord with a suspended load;
• the horizontal position and straightness of the masonry is controlled by the rule;
• measurements are carried out with a tape measure or steel meter.

Tools for work

Types of solution

Laying a Russian stove with your own hands requires the preparation of a specific solution. The mixture for this can be purchased ready-made, or you can prepare it yourself according to a unique recipe.

Clay mortar

This type of solution involves individual preparation for various types bricks.

Laying pipes in the attic

For masonry solid brick a sand-clay solution is used. The same solution is necessary for lining the stove with ceramic tiles.

To lay refractory bricks, you will need a mortar prepared from a mixture of refractory clay and sand.

Fireclay bricks are laid using a mortar consisting of fireclay powder and refractory clay.

Laying a chimney in the attic is done using a mortar based on cement and sand.

Masonry mortar

The main problem when preparing a mortar for masonry is drawing up the optimal proportion of its components and choosing clay required quality. All types of clay have certain qualities, which vary depending on its type. There are lean and fatty clays. To determine this parameter, you need to get a small ball from it and try to crush it between the boards. If cracks begin to appear before the material is crushed to a third of its diameter, the solution is considered lean and requires additional clay. If cracking begins later, then the solution is greasy and sand should be added to it. A solution that is richer is preferable to one that is too dry.

Solution

To prepare the solution you will need a container made of metal. The clay is soaked in this container for two days. Then sand is added and the solution is mixed using feet previously shod in high rubber boots. To obtain a homogeneous solution, it is necessary that there are no lumps or stones in it.

Creating a foundation

Foundation

The design of a Russian stove requires that a separate foundation. To do this, it is recommended to lay the foundation from a monolith of reinforced concrete. A necessary requirement is the presence of a protrusion of the foundation of at least 500 mm beyond the outer dimension of the furnace.

If the furnace is installed next to an internal wall, a sand layer is placed between the foundations to separate the bases of the two structures. This is due to the slight deepening of the building's foundation.

If the oven is located near external wall, where the foundation has a significant depth, then the width of the pit is increased, followed by filling and compacting sand and gravel. Upon completion of this work, a stove foundation is created, the base of which must have a depth of at least 500 mm with a distance of 50 mm from the base of the house.

Stove masonry: step-by-step instructions

Site preparation

At this stage, the construction site is leveled and marked. The progress of the furnace laying will depend on the thoroughness of this work.

Pouring the foundation

The depth of the pit depends on the dimensions of the structure and is in the range of 500-1200 mm. The foundation material is concrete, which after pouring takes about a week to harden.

Masonry orders

Do-it-yourself Russian ovens are made in strict accordance with a diagram called ordering.
The first row, consisting of two or three rows of bricks, is laid on the foundation to achieve greater stability of the structure. The quality of the brick for this series is not of fundamental importance.

The main thing is the quality of firing.

After this, the masonry scheme must fully comply with the order. The rows can be continuous or have cavities and niches.

In order to support the arch, if the furnace is large, columns are installed. Fireclay bricks are used for them.

The next rows are laid similarly to the first, taking into account the drawing.

Masonry of a Russian stove

Preparing the oven for operation

Having completed the construction of the Russian stove, you should allow the solution to dry. The heating and hardening of the brickwork is carried out after 5-6 days. This time is enough for even the fireclay mixture to set in the crucible.

Finishing

IN in this case finishing is necessary not only to give the structure an aesthetic appearance, but also to control the condition of the furnace masonry. Traditional finish involves the use of clay, slaked lime and chalk.

This mixture works successfully under conditions of temperature fluctuations.

Photos of Russian stoves

A brick Russian stove is a mandatory attribute of a dacha or house located in rural areas. And this is not only a tribute to tradition, but also important element interior, as well as a guarantee of warmth in the home with the onset of cold weather. Despite the fact that gas boilers and electric boilers have appeared these days heating devices, wood heating continues to be in great demand.

This can be explained both by the revived fashion for the “naturalness” of country houses, the main purpose of which is to escape civilization, and by economic considerations. Let's look at how to build such a stove with your own hands.

About the Russian stove

Drawings of a Russian brick stove may be different due to significant differences in the size of the structures, which, as a rule, include a stove and a heating shield, which gives greater functionality.

So, based on size, stoves are:

• Small, whose dimensions are 1800 by 1240 mm.
• Average– 2130 by 1470 mm.
• Large– 2310 by 1600 mm.

The most common sizes are:

• Height– about 180 cm.
• Length– 210 cm.
• Width– 140 cm.

It should be noted that a Russian brick oven requires careful control and observation both during the combustion process and during the cooking process, so cooking in this case is not very convenient.

Material

Despite the fact that traditionally ordinary ceramic is used for the construction of such furnaces building brick, under the influence of high temperatures it cracks over time, which entails slow destruction of the structure. Therefore, the best material would be fireclay brick.

This material also belongs to ceramic brick blocks, but it is made from special fireclay (chamotte), which significantly increases its resistance to elevated temperatures. Accordingly, its price is slightly higher.

A good option is a combination of materials: the main structure is laid with ordinary ceramic bricks, and the places where the material will be exposed to open fire are laid with fireclay.

Single and double sand-lime brick M 150 is not suitable for the construction of furnaces.

Masonry of a Russian stove

The masonry of this structure has its own characteristics, and therefore it cannot be erected like an ordinary brick wall. The difficulty is that each row of such masonry has fundamental differences, and it is possible to build a Russian one only if the instructions are strictly followed.

So, let's move on to the work:

• First row of the oven. The outer sides are made of solid brick, and the empty space between them is filled with stones or brick fragments.
• In the second row, you need to lay out 2 brick walls, which are needed for the partition columns. In this case, you should leave from 2 to 4 windows - openings for cleaning (wells). It is also necessary to leave space for the blower.
• The third row includes the construction of a large firebox with a ash door, after which a small firebox ash is laid.
• We install the blower doors. We install well partitions using bricks. If you can’t make the ash door, leave the space open until finished. construction work. On last stage construction, it is through these doors that the remaining cement mortar will be removed.
• We lay a brick partition on the posts, which is fixed in the stove walls using the locking method. The ash door should be covered with bricks.

• We make three holes under the partition, measuring 12 by 21 cm. This is necessary for gases to pass from one furnace compartment to another.
• We narrow the vault of the vent of a large firebox, which is necessary for the installation of the grate.
• The grates of both fireboxes must be covered with bricks.

Advice! In order for the fuel to burn faster, rolling onto the grate on its own, it is necessary to cut off the front and rear bricks located above the small firebox. This will allow poorly dried firewood to burn better.

• We install a door for a large firebox.
• We build a small firebox and install a door on it.

Advice! In order to ensure uniform heating in the stove, the horizontal passage between the partition and the large firebox should be increased.

• We close the horizontal channel and the partition, for which the hearth is laid out.
• Place another layer of hearth on top, leaving a small gap. The firebox doors should be closed at this stage.
• We apply a layer of mortar on which the cast iron stove will be installed.
• We carefully strengthen the 13th and 14th rows of masonry, tying the seams.
• To build a wall above the cooking chamber, we use bricks cut from the bottom. The wall is built one brick thick.

• It is necessary to build a second row of brickwork around the cooking chamber on three sides. In this case, cramping should not be done.
• We make repeated connections. We lay the foundation for the over-pipe using steel strips. The base should be supported by a steel rod with a diameter of 1.6 cm. Any pipe of the appropriate size can also be used. The steel strips should rest against special “sockets” made in the brick.

• We begin laying the vault. The design of the Russian stove involves laying the first row of bricks in the cooking chamber at an angle, into which a layer of cement mortar with crushed stone or adobe should be poured.
• On the right side, you should secure the wall of the overtube with a lock, after which you need to narrow the overtube by a third.
• The collecting channel is given the required shape.
• A ventilation channel with a cross-section of 25 by 7 cm should be provided near the overpipe. It is needed as an exhaust hood that will remove gases accumulating in the overpipe.
• We reduce the collection channel. The front row of bricks should be hewn, giving them a cone shape.
• Give the ventilation duct a rectangular shape. Its dimensions are 12 by 19 cm.
• On this row, the ventilation duct should become square, respectively, 12 by 12 cm.
• We install a valve in the area above the ventilation duct.
• We narrow the collection channel, providing a smoke channel.
• On this row we repeat the actions characteristic of the previous row.
• We install a valve over the smoke channel.

• We combine the smoke and ventilation ducts in a horizontal plane, after which the internal structure should resemble the letter “G”.
• Two steel sheets should be laid over the combined channel. This channel is the base that covers the ventilation shaft.
• The chimney is a hole with dimensions of 12 by 26 cm. Three layers of brick should be built above it.
• Next, we build a chimney measuring 13 by 26 cm. The masonry should be continued to the ceiling.
• We carry out fluffing, the thickness of which is 1.5 bricks. The fluff should be installed exactly 4 rows above the attic slope.
• As a chimney, you can continue the brickwork or use a steel pipe.

Chimney insulation

Insulation of the chimney is necessary for several reasons:

• To protect the chimney from destruction by condensate.
• For longer preservation of heat in the room.

We insulate a steel chimney and asbestos cement pipe

Pipe insulation of this type occurs through a casing made of galvanized iron:

• We put the casing on the pipe.
• We fill the cavity between the casing and the pipe with mineral wool.
• This way we insulate the pipe to the top.
• We put on the upper part of the casing with a slight slope.
• The upper section of the pipe should be filled with cement mortar.

Insulating a brick pipe

The simplest method of insulation is plastering. To do this, use a solution of cement, slag and lime.

• We apply plaster not very well thin layer. The most optimal thickness is about 5 cm.
• The reinforced mesh should be “sinked” into a fresh layer of plaster, then another layer of plaster should be applied.
• Next, we apply two or three more layers of plaster, which it is advisable to alternate in this way: more liquid/thicker.

Conclusion

Now you know how to build a stove yourself. The Russian stove is a rather complex structure, and therefore compliance with all components in this case is very important.

In the video presented in this article you will find Additional information on this topic.

The era of wood-burning stoves and fireplaces will not end as long as people enjoy looking at the hearth with burning logs and feeling the incredibly comfortable warmth emanating from the stove walls. Instead of expensive and power-hungry gas and coal boilers, a simple and reliable, interesting and convenient Russian stove is gradually returning to homes. It’s not difficult to build a proper Russian stove with your own hands, if you have the desire. It is no secret that in the stove business, extreme patience is always required in order to select the right materials and build the brickwork as required by the order drawing.

Russian stove in the house: advantages and disadvantages

Combustion chamber structure, vault diagram and smoke channels The Russian stove is somewhat different from the usual fireplaces or Dutch ovens. It’s not for nothing that craftsmen who understand how to build a real Russian stove say that this is a house within a house. Fans of modern materials and technologies argue that its design is archaic and requires huge costs. With the money spent on a Russian stove, you can build two Dutch ovens and a fireplace in addition, but this is a purely mercantile, monetary approach to business. In practice, everyone who planned to build a Russian stove and acquired one notes certain advantages and advantages that are characteristic only of this scheme:

• Low heat flux density, due to very large area the heating surface of the stove, the radiated heat always remains soft and even therapeutic, does not dry out the air, like a fireplace or electric heaters;
• If you plan and build a Russian stove correctly, you can relax on the stove bench without the risk of freezing, even at low room temperatures. Experts advise building a bed, even if you never have to sleep on a Russian stove;
• Heat flows escaping into the foundation and adjacent soil layers block and dry out soil masses, reducing the risk of foundation deformation due to heaving forces.

For your information! According to reviews from owners, many customers plan to build a brick stove of the Russian design, without even intending to use it for heating residential premises. Food, especially vegetable and meat dishes, cooked in a Russian oven cannot be compared with cooking on a gas burner or electric stove.

A Russian stove heated to moderate heat can retain heat for up to several days. It makes sense to build a stove if the owners have to leave home for a day or two. When you return, the room will remain slightly cooled, but still warm, which will avoid night or evening fuss with the fireplace or stove.

The Russian stove is well suited for any premises, provided that people constantly live in them. For a country house visited on weekends, it is best to build a Russian stove with a fireplace, a water-heating box, or equip the room with a mixed heating system. A truly Russian stove comes to life and produces heat only after 8-10 hours. For the impatient, you can build a stove, like for a bath, with thin walls. It takes 3-4 hours to raise a Russian oven to a hot state. You can build a firebox with coal or gas burner, but in this case the risk of cracks and collapse of the vault increases by an order of magnitude.

Standard Russian stove: dimensions

Before building a house, the craftsmen selected the most suitable corner or place near the wall for installing the stove box. The size of the Russian stove was determined based on the size of the room, the material of the walls and the presence of a foundation near the house. Today it’s the other way around: first, the owners prefer to build a house, and only at the stage of finishing the rough work do they think about a heating system with a Russian stove.

Modern stove makers prefer to divide Russian stoves into three categories:

• Small stoves, base size 1.24 m wide and 1.78 m long, such a box is easy to build under a canopy, in a summer kitchen or in a country house;
• Medium or home stoves, it can be built to heat a small house of 30-40 square meters. The size of the box base is 2.13x1.47 m;
• For a large one and a half story house year-round residence A full-size Russian stove 3.25x2.25 m is best suited.

For your information! Such an unusual range of sizes was due to the fact that in the old days the measure of length was the arshin; in terms of conversion, the size of a home or average Russian stove was 3x2 arshins.

Given external dimensions brick box were mostly used as a guideline only. It was much more important to correctly observe the dimensional proportions of the furnace, hearth, roof, overpipe and chimney section. You can build a Russian stove of any size, but be sure to maintain the ratio of the sizes of the parts.

Russian stove on the street

The outdoor version of the Russian stove can be built according to the classic scheme with a long furnace, or made according to a shortened scheme, with the firebox lined with fireproof chamotte and the ability to heat the stove with peat or coal briquettes.

It is considered a prestigious and at the same time practical option to build a Russian stove in the traditional recreation area for the whole family on fresh air. This can be a small area under a canopy, attached to the back of the house and protected from winds and drafts. In addition to the fact that the Russian oven turns out to be an indispensable tool and assistant for preparing summer baked goods and canning, heated brickwork will help keep you warm during gatherings on cool autumn evenings.

You can, of course, build an outdoor fireplace using wood and warm yourself by an open fire, but such a decision is justified only if the place to relax is drafty. Many lovers of country holidays are well aware of the insidiousness of fireplace heat; even at a considerable distance you can easily get a “campfire” tan or even burns.

If you build a Russian stove instead of a fireplace, you can warm yourself outside, even leaning your back on a plastered wall. In the villages, old people tried to build a bench or lay a pile under the wall of the house, where the back side of the Russian stove faced. It was believed that the warmth of the Russian stove draws pain from the joints.

Simple Russian stove

For the street, it is best to build a Russian stove that runs on high-calorie solid fuel. Most often used for quick heating:

• Birch charcoal, or perhaps seeded stone anthracite, but in no case smoke or gas charcoal. It is best to build a firebox for charcoal briquettes or apartment coal;
• Birch firewood or sawn old acacia. You cannot use coniferous species, especially pine or spruce, which produce huge amounts of resin and soot;
• Pressed briquette of birch sawdust with a paraffin binder.

The classic version of the Russian outdoor stove is shown in the photo.

The shape of the crucible has been changed. It was necessary to build a firebox that was shorter, but increased in width, thanks to this, a daily load of firewood can be placed in the Russian stove at once and you can do baking bread, canning vegetables or cooking without regard to the state of the cinder and coals in the crucible.

If you plan to build a dacha version of a Russian outdoor stove, then it is best to choose projects that involve installing a water-heating coil or a container for hot water. A simple device and washing will greatly facilitate the cooking process. A small tank made of food-grade stainless steel and a coil made it possible to brew tea and even heat water for washing hands or dishes. If a large amount of boiling water is required, then you can build a Russian stove according to the scheme with one or even two tubular containers of 20 liters each, mounted in the base of the stove hearth. True, for an outdoor Russian stove it is imperative to build a system for draining and purging residual water for the winter.

Russian stove with grill

The outdoor version of the stove with barbecue is always built in the form of one brick box, functionally divided into two compartments. This approach allows you to build a structure with one chimney for two combustion chambers - the crucible of a Russian stove and a tray with coals of a barbecue.

What does this give? You can, of course, build separate buildings for a Russian stove and barbecue, but such a solution is more expensive and does not provide any special advantages.

The presence of a barbecue does not affect the operation of a Russian stove in any way; on the other hand, a powerful hot flow of combustion products coming from the furnace of the stove through the chimney into the chimney creates a high vacuum in the pipe. Even if the grill is smoking, there will be no burning smell under the canopy.

Russian stove in a gazebo under a canopy

If you plan to equip a canopy or gazebo next to your house with a stationary stove, then most of the restrictions and conditions that you have to face if you build a Russian stove in your house simply become invalid. You can build a Russian stove with a warm trestle bed on the side for winter gatherings, make an extension with a barbecue grill, a compartment for baking bread, for roasting meat, the customer’s imagination is practically unlimited.

Moreover, the design of the Russian stove is best suited for equipping a gazebo or any indoor summer space:

• The design of the chimney and the mouth of the classic Russian stove makes the design the most fireproof, sparks and coals are securely closed in the firebox, so a Russian stove can be built even under a fabric awning;
• A properly heated Russian stove retains coals and heat for more than a day, even if it’s raining, foggy outside, strong wind. All you have to do is add some wood, and the rest continues. If you build a barbecue instead of a Russian stove, then before it comes to barbecue and fried meat, the owners will have to inhale the smell of old burning for a couple more hours.

For small gazebo building a full-fledged Russian stove is quite difficult due to its specific shape with an elongated “back” of the combustion chamber. Therefore, the gazebo version of the Russian stove is somewhat simplified. To build a small-sized version of the stove, the dimensions of the furnace are reduced to 50-60 liters, instead of the traditional 120-200 liters.

It is clear that a reduced-size Russian oven is only suitable for preparing culinary masterpieces for dining in the fresh air.

If it is not possible to build a mini-stove, or there is no space for chimney equipment, you can always buy a ready-made portable Russian stove, which can be easily removed into the house at the end of the season.

Traditional Russian stoves

One of the remarkable qualities of the Russian stove is its relatively simple and at the same time effective design. The basis of the furnace is composed of quality bricks the combustion chamber, most often long and narrow, like a tunnel with a blank back wall. The bottom of the chamber of a Russian stove is called a hearth; the near part of the hearth, next to the mouth or entrance to the firebox, is used to install dishes, cast iron pots and pots. The far part of the hearth, or burner, is loaded with firewood and burned to smoldering coals.

The ceiling of the chamber is called a vault; craftsmen recommend building an arched vault and always with a rise towards the rear wall. It is in this firebox that lies main secret Russian stove. If the master manages to build a firebox or, in other words, a crucible, according to all the rules, this means that the furnace will heat and work like a clock.

The secret of the Russian stove lies in two design features:

• Smoke and hot combustion products do not spread throughout the ceiling arch, but flow across the arch in a compact stream, heating the arch to a very high temperature, burning off soot deposits and creating good draft in the firebox. If you build a flat vault in the stove, then it is clear that draft will appear only when the Russian stove is completely warmed up, and the ceiling of the furnace will have to be cleaned almost every week;
• In order for the furnace to work properly, you need to know exactly the dimensions of the overpipe, heater and chimney. Before building a Russian stove, they estimate the volume of the firebox and the required size of the combustion chamber so that exactly as much air enters the stove as is necessary for smoldering combustion without a flame.

Important! This scheme ensures uniform heating of the hearth and furnace as a whole. If you build a furnace with an enlarged mouth or mouth, the wood will burn out in 20 minutes, and the furnace body will crack due to high thermal stresses.

For a Russian stove using charcoal or briquettes, it is best to build a hot or high firebox; for a wood-burning stove, the height of the combustion chamber is chosen to be 15-20% less. You can build a universal version with a fireclay lining, but in practice such a furnace turns out to be more reliable, but very voracious.

Russian stove with stove bench

A Russian baking oven with a short firebox can be built even in the kitchen of a private house; such a design will occupy an area of ​​approximately 120x150 cm. You can cook almost any food, as in a conventional oven, but in this case you have to give up one of the main advantages of the Russian oven - the stove bench.

Essentially, this is a sleeping bag and a place for drying herbs, storing food, and in winter, a drying rack for clothes. On a large stove, a stove bench can even be built in two levels - on the top one they lay out herbs, dry apples and apricots, and on the lower level they install a tank for warm water.

It’s not difficult to build a stove bench; the arch of the combustion chamber is covered with crushed dried clay, the tiles are laid, and the flooring is ready. Many of the owners of a Russian stove believe that it is worth building a stove bench if only to be able to dry washed clothes, clothes and even shoes in the winter.

Russian stove with stove

Of course, the process of cooking in a Russian oven cannot be called the most convenient, especially if you need to cook something quickly, without prolonged simmering in the crucible. You can build a relatively small Russian stove with a hob, on which cooking is no more difficult than on a regular gas stove.

One of the most successful options for a Russian stove is shown in the diagram below.

The design of the classic Russian stove has been seriously redesigned and supplemented:

• Instead of a backfill chamber isolating the hot bottom of the furnace from the foundation, it was necessary to build an additional smoke channel leading into the overtube chamber;
• The design of the Russian stove now includes a winter firebox. It had to be built using the available volume of backfill under the furnace;
• A cast iron cooking plate is installed on the bend at the exit point of the additional channel. Hot gases from the combustion chamber or from the winter firebox, under the influence of draft in the chimney, heat the metal to 450-500 o C, which is quite enough for cooking.

The only drawback that you have to put up with is the presence of an overlapping cast-iron shelf or transition plate, which must be removed in the summer and returned to its place in the winter.

The diagram shows a two-mode Russian stove, which can be heated and cooked in the traditional way in a crucible, and, if necessary, used in the hob mode.

DIY Russian oven with stove

It is clear that if you have enough time, effort and financial resources, you can build a furnace of any complexity and size. And the Russian stove with hob is no exception. But before you try to build a modern stove with your own hands, it’s worth considering two points:

• The increased complexity of the layout requires very careful work with masonry mortar and bonding of bricks. Not every stove maker undertakes to build a Russian stove with a remote hob;
• Even if it is possible to build a stove box, the problem of switching “winter-summer” will remain a rather complicated procedure. It is almost impossible to build a Russian stove so that it can be controlled without having to crawl into the combustion chamber.

If you try to build a Russian stove with a water tank and a stove with your own hands, everything will take two weeks of work and 30 thousand rubles. for the purchase of material. A mistake will ruin everything, while a team of craftsmen undertakes to build it with a guarantee for 50 thousand rubles. Moreover, the arrangement of such a stove is so complicated that before building the stove, you will need to dry lay bricks at least two or three times in order to understand the details.

Choosing a location for a Russian stove

As a rule, there are no problems with choosing a place to install a Russian stove if the presence of a stove in the house is planned long before the house is built. The reason is simple: the enormous weight of the masonry requires a slab foundation to be installed. If the house is made of stone, brick, or slag-cement block, then the Russian stove can be placed without problems in the corner area or in the center of the most spacious room.

For frame buildings, log and timber houses, the Russian stove is located from wooden walls and partitions at a distance of at least 120 cm. If you really need to build a Russian stove in the corner wooden house, then two conditions must be met:

• The pole window should be turned away from the walls towards the center of the room;
• Between the wooden walls and the stove, backfill thermal insulation made of baked clay and vermiculite is laid to the height of the masonry, with a thickness of at least 15 cm.

The base of the Russian stove and part of the floor adjacent to the body are sheathed with metal plates on an asbestos-cement sheet. If you build a stove without protection, then if the wall cracks due to overheating, some of the hot ash can cause a fire.

The problems associated with installing a Russian stove are somewhat different from the situation with other types of stove structures. The Russian stove itself, if built according to all the rules, does not pose a particular fire threat to wooden walls. IN wooden huts the owners preferred to build a Russian stove in the dampest corner in order to dry out the earthen foundation and log vaults, while the stove body was installed on a wooden frame - the guardianship.

In theory, a Russian stove can be built almost close to a log or timber, which will make the room even warmer. But even low-intensity heat flow has an extremely detrimental effect on wood, so it is imperative to build reflective or dissipative insulation between the wall and the brickwork. But it is also impossible to enclose the brickwork with a thermal insulation composition; there must be an air gap 5-10 cm wide through which air will circulate and uniformly cool the body of the Russian stove. To build a stove box without a gap means dooming the brickwork to overheat, and if cracks form, repairing the seams can turn into a huge problem.

Masonry tools

In order to build a Russian stove, you will need the same tools that were used when making brickwork from ordinary bricks:

1. Trowel, mason's hammer for cutting bricks;
2. Containers for mixing masonry mortar or breaking clay;
3. Construction level and plumb line;
4. Grinder with a set of cutting wheels for metal and stone;
5. Marking carpenter's rulers, triangle.

In addition, you will need an entrenching tool, buckets and a container for mixing concrete mortar, buckets for removing excavated soil and a set of carpentry tools for assembling the foundation formwork.

Necessary materials

To build the walls of a Russian stove, it is best to buy ready mixture for laying fireplaces and wood stoves. The least important part of the walls can be built using home-made cement-clay mortar. It is still better to build the furnace, part of the hearth, the ash pit and the mouth using a special mixture for fireclay bricks.

In addition, you will need:

• Fireclay and red solid stone;
• Sand, clay, asbestos fiber and cord;
• Ruberoid or any rolled material for waterproofing on a fiberglass basis;
• Steel wire, 15 m, annealed steel metal strips, lengths 140 cm and 100 cm;
• Grate 38x25 cm;
• Valves for the chimney, cast iron doors with a frame for the blower 25x14 cm, and the combustion chamber - 25x20 cm;
• Hob.

Particular attention is paid to the correct selection of clay. It is believed that it is possible to build a Russian stove only with very thin seams, no more than 6 mm; accordingly, the clay solution must be very plastic and at the same time contain at least 30% sand to ensure resistance to cracking in extreme heat.

Brick selection

For the combustion chamber, first of all, you will need fireclay ША15. Depending on the size of the firebox, in order to build the most hot part Russian stove, you will need 150-300 pieces. You only need to buy fireclay new, as they say, in polyethylene; it is best to take domestic material; attempts to build a firebox from Chinese or Turkish stone, as a rule, end in severe shrinkage and the formation of cracks in the arch.

The base of a Russian stove can be built from solid “iron ore” - yellow clay brick with purple veins. The material is highly durable and hard, but upon purchase you will need to re-sort it, since the brick varies greatly in size and number of defects.

Red building brick grade M250 is used to lay out the main part of the base, bench, mouth and over-pipe. It is better to build the walls and face of a Russian stove from ordinary stone, and after 3-5 months of operation, cover the stove box with ceramic tiles.

A small stove will require at least 1500-1600 pieces of brick and approximately 800 liters of clay-cement mortar; for a home and large Russian stove, the cost of stone will be 2100-2200 and 2550 pieces. For masonry clay, the consumption will be 1200 l and 1400 l, respectively.

Foundation for a Russian stove

The best solution is to build the stove on a separate slab foundation. You can pour a slab under the box of a Russian stove at the stage of arranging the strip foundation of the house, but in practice such a successful coincidence of circumstances is extremely rare. Most often, the foundation needs to be built when the house is already ready.

To arrange the foundation, boards are removed from the floors, and a box of 200x150 mm timber is knocked down and cut between the joists and floor beams. The size of the base of the Russian stove does not allow building a foundation without cutting the joists, and the box will connect and strengthen the base of the floor and ceiling.

A pit is dug in the ground to a depth of at least 70-80 cm, filled with sand, waterproofing is laid and filled with rubble concrete. Before building the walls and base of a Russian stove, the head of the foundation is coated with bitumen mastic, covered with roofing felt and asbestos cardboard.

For small oven you can build a foundation on the floor beams. Such a base is called a guardianship and is assembled in the form of a double-crowned timber or log frame, most often in the form of a rectangular box. In the central part of the base, intermediate piles are driven into the ground, which strengthen the beams and at the same time keep the furnace from tilting. The free space is filled with rubble and covered with felt soaked in liquid clay. On the guardianship you can build a Russian stove weighing up to 700-750 kg, all other options are only on a slab foundation.

Furnace mortar

Three types of mortars are used for masonry construction:

• Fireproof, refractory clay with sand and grated fireclay powder in a ratio of 1:3;
• Clean masonry mortar from fatty clay with ¼ part of very fine washed quarry sand;
• Decorative mortar is used for laying facing bricks.

It is very difficult to build a Russian stove using one type of mortar, especially for a chimney and firebox, where both strength and heat resistance are required. Therefore, today even master stove makers widely use ready-made fireplace mixtures of varying plasticity and heat resistance. It is better to build the firebox, ash pit, interpipe and chimney using fireclay mortar; the rest of the masonry bricks are laid out using clay mortar. It is best to take clay from the same quarry as the raw materials for red brick.

The success of the event depends 100% on the selection of a successful clay-sand ratio or proportions; building a stove box only with a fireplace mixture, and even more so with an ordinary cement-sand mixture, is not even worth trying. Them more complex device Russian stove, the more often you need to check and test the mixed clay solution.

Checking the quality of the clay taken

There are practically no reliable recipes or methods by which you can more or less confidently check the quality and properties of clay. But each master stove maker has his own set of rules for testing clay, which they will definitely use before building at least the first five rows of masonry.

Among the most well-known techniques for checking a prepared batch are the following:

• Shovel test. A small piece, the size of an egg, is crushed by hand and forcefully slapped onto a bayonet shovel. The tool is exposed to the sun, but so that the rays do not hit the clay. If after an hour the “crust” has not fallen off and there are no cracks, then you can try to build the first three rows of the oven base from mortar;
• Bend test. Instead of a clay ball, a sausage is kneaded, as in the photo. If, after a short drying until tack-free, the flagellum can be bent into an arc without cracking, it means that the clay is sufficiently fatty and plastic, from which you can build the most important elements of a Russian stove, for example, an arched vault or a recess.

Experienced stove makers are able to determine the quality of the clay solution by touch. Masonry is carried out only on fresh masonry material; an hour after mixing, the clay, as they say, ages. Therefore, craftsmen, before laying a row or building a brick ligation, always press the mortar with their hands. If the mixture of clay and sand has become too hard, the batch is sent to an apprentice for re-pounding.

For amateur stove makers, we can advise not to try to copy the whims of the old masters, but to use the experience of potters. Before building the first row of masonry, clay without sand is kneaded for a very long time, first with a shovel, then with a trowel, and finally by hand with the gradual addition of sand. As a result, the nature of the clay changes, the material becomes very plastic and stretchy, like liquid rubber. The work is very hard, but a recipe like this allows you to get a cool solution from which you can build anything you want, from a tandoor to a Russian oven. Lime and salt are not used when forming the batch.

Masonry of a Russian stove

The principle of laying bricks is in many ways reminiscent of assembling a children's construction set. First check the actual shrinkage of the seam under load. To do this, you need to build a column of 5-7 bricks using freshly prepared mortar. The seam should not sag more than 2 mm. The optimal seam thickness is 5-6 mm. Before building at least the base of a Russian stove, the masonry is assembled from dry bricks, the bandaging of the corners is trimmed and adjusted, and the places for laying the reinforcing mesh are leveled. Only after the final adjustment of the material can you proceed to laying the mortar.

Order for masonry

It is possible to build a Russian stove without any order, if you have a layout diagram or an accurate map of the location of the stove channels. For amateur stove makers, the order helps them avoid getting confused and correctly bandage the layers.

The first row is laid directly on the primed waterproofing. To build a stove without hanging corners, laying begins with three-quarter bricks in the corner joints of the base. The brick is cut with a wedge and laid as in the diagram.

The given scheme for bandaging the corners may seem too complicated; it would seem that you can build a corner with an ordinary poke, but this is only at first glance. Using a corner, you can build the first row of a stove for small-sized mini-stoves with a base of 100x120 cm. Practice shows that for medium and large stoves the most reliable way to build a base is the method shown in the diagram. Sometimes craftsmen even play it safe and tie adjacent bricks with annealed wire. 1-6 rows

In the second row, the contours of the channels and cleaning cavities are laid on a brick base; on the third row, the walls of the entire box, cleaning and blower are drawn out with dry bricks; you need to build a place for installing the blower door, secure it with burnt steel wire rod.

On the fourth row, the walls of the hearth cavities of the Russian stove are displayed.

In the fifth row of brickwork, you need to build a firebox lining for the winter firebox and lay a grate.

In the sixth row, walls and internal lintels are erected; a support needs to be built for installing a metal hot water tank.

First arch

The design of a Russian stove can be significantly simplified, for example, the bottom or the stove under the firebox can be built in an arched manner. In this case, there will be no tank in the structure, and the arch will be built from a wedge-cut brick using a pre-prepared frame.

An arched vault is used for large combustion chambers in classic Russian stoves. It is difficult to build a flat firebox cover almost a meter wide. It is necessary to lay steel corners or increase the thickness of the arch by 2-3 times. In addition, laying bricks in an arch allows you to build a vault that is not afraid of overheating and strong sooting.

IN simple ovens With a hot water boiler and a firebox under the hob, the easiest way is to build a base in the form of a flat surface.

7-10 rows of masonry

When laying the seventh row, you need to use a grinder to cut a groove in the brick and build a seat for installing a grate for hob. On the next two rows, the firebox doors of the stove and the small firebox are installed.

On the 10th row, brick is laid under or the floor of the combustion chamber; all that remains is to build the walls of the furnace and the return chimney channels.

Bedding

Part of the hearth and hearth is filled with dry hot sand; it acts as a thermal insulator and at the same time compensates for temperature stresses arising due to uneven heating of the furnace walls. You can build a Russian stove without bedding; in this case, fireclay material is used instead of red brick.

Rows 11-17

On the 11th row, a steel angle or pipe is placed on the edge of the front side of the stove, to which the hob will be attached.

Starting from the 12th row, the body of the combustion chamber is laid out from fireclay. On the hole located to the left of the cooking cast iron, you need to build a chimney body. By laying subsequent rows, the walls of the combustion chamber and the mouth are formed.

Zev, squeeze, mouth, crucible

In the 17th row of masonry, the walls of the furnace narrow and move to the vault. The chimney pipe expands in cross section, back wall tightened and fixed with steel straps. Next, you need to build the molding and mouth of the Russian stove.

18 and above

After laying out the 17th row, you need to solve the problem of how to build the arched vault of the combustion chamber. Traditionally, the arch is assembled from fireclay bricks on a wooden frame.

A brick edge pre-laid around the perimeter makes it possible to support the edge blocks of the arch and hold the entire structure until the masonry mortar has completely set.

On the 19th and 20th rows, the construction of walls continues, and the mouth and mouth of the furnace are finally formed. The remaining space between the arch and the side walls is filled with crushed superheated clay and clean sand.

On rows 22-24, the arch of the chimney is narrowed, a ventilation damper and a door are installed on the chimney.

Chimney

Next, from the 25th to the 30th row, you need to build the body of the bypass channel from the overpipe into the chimney cavity; due to the additional four rows, the height of the Russian stove increases to almost 2.5 m. It remains to build the passage unit roofing pie and lay the pipe to the required height above the roof of the house.

If you plan to build a Russian stove with a stove and a hot water tank, the height of the chimney pipe must be at least 5 m from the first row to the cut. The cross section cannot be increased arbitrarily, which is sometimes practiced by craftsmen to improve traction. In this case, it is better to build a chimney with a stainless steel liner pipe; this option is much easier to clean from soot and prevents condensation from forming.

Drying the lined stove

Before building a chimney, the Russian stove is subjected to inspection and pre-drying. It is necessary to find all the cracks and places with squeezed out mortar in the seams, they are rubbed with thin clay with asbestos fiber. Unlike the design of a fireplace or a Dutch oven, in a Russian stove the heavy brick chimney pipe is shifted towards the mouth or, as in the case of the “Teplushka” described above, generally shifted to an angle.

The pipe weighs more than a hundred kilograms, so craftsmen try to build a Russian stove in short layers, no more than three or four rows per day. Most of the time is spent on grinding and plastering the internal channels of the furnace. The mouth and over-pipe are not plastered, but sanded with wet sand to achieve the smoothest possible surface. During the time spent on fine-tuning the channels and parts of the furnace, the brickwork has time to dry thoroughly at normal air temperatures.

By the time it is necessary to build a chimney, the Russian stove should already be completely finished, dried and ready for use. To once again make sure that the chosen cross-section for the chimney is correct, a three-meter tin pipe is placed at the outlet, and the furnace firebox itself is fumigated with smoke from a mixture of raw sawdust and dry straw. Based on how easily the smoke escapes into the can, the parameters of the cross-section and height of the chimney, which still needs to be built, are specified.

Trial fire

After work with the furnace is finally completed, a calibration or drying firebox must be carried out before finishing or commissioning. To heat up a cold stove, fill a small cast iron pot to the top with fresh smoldering coals and place it in the furnace. Straw and grass are laid on top and as it burns, wood chips and dry grass are added.

It turns out to be a small fire made from low-calorie fuel; after 1.5-2 hours you can load a bucket of real birch coals into the firebox and let them burn out and cool down along with the stove. Sometimes craftsmen prefer to build a hut from a torch, and by how the fire burns they determine how effectively fresh air enters the firebox.

Even professional stove makers rarely manage to build a Russian stove without errors or the slightest criticism, so traces of smoke and soot from the first firing help determine where to trim the brick, and where to add stone thickness, for example, to build a smoother transition from the overpipe to the heel, or to make the mouth higher ovens.

Safety measures when starting to operate a Russian stove

Using a Russian stove requires care and attention. Even if a master stove maker has undertaken to build the stove box, this does not mean that it is guaranteed to be safe to use.

First of all, you need to be careful every time you open the mouth of the firebox; in addition to a stream of smoke, hot coals may fly out of the furnace and even flames may blaze. Therefore, before building a Russian stove, you should make a small rearrangement in the room so that the release of coals and hot air does not lead to the ignition of wooden and fabric objects.

For the first couple of months, you need to build a safety path around the Russian stove. To do this, sheets of galvanized metal are laid along the walls on the floor, after which they are filled with dry sand. If a crack forms in the walls, embers and fragments of hot bricks will fall onto the sand and will not cause harm.

DIY Russian mini-oven

A real Russian stove has always been very large. On the one hand, it was necessary to build a firebox of sufficiently impressive size to heat the house even in the most severe frosts, on the other hand, the stove itself was a large part of the home furnishings, this is how life was arranged.

For a modern private home, it is quite possible to build a Russian stove in a mini version, with a base size of 100x130 cm. Such a tiny one can be squeezed into a summer kitchen or built on an open veranda. There are more than enough options, and the main thing is that the weight of a brick box is unlikely to exceed 600 kg, so there is no need to spend money on building a separate slab foundation. It is enough to install two piles or lay a more massive beam with a cross-section of 200x150 mm into the base of a wooden floor.

A classic version of the Russian mini-stove

Over the past half century, enthusiasts have developed several different versions Russian mini-oven. Many of them managed to be built and tested in practice. Most owners plan to build a mini oven for a specific utilitarian purpose. It is clear that no one will try to build a Russian mini-oven in the classic version, for example, to organize heating and heating in a house. The capabilities of a reduced copy for these purposes are clearly not enough. But as a tool for gastronomic experiments, the stove remains unrivaled.

For example, classic version A Russian mini-oven with a disproportionately enlarged furnace and a maximally widened mouth is used for very quickly drying fruits and vegetables, preparing baked dairy products, and baking bread. Many connoisseurs of Italian cuisine decide to build a Russian mini-oven for baking wood-fired pizza, Italian pies with cheese and chicken, and yeast bread - focaccio.

The main beauty of a Russian baking oven is that it can be built by almost anyone who owns a trowel and knows the basics of bricklaying.

Diagram of a classic mini-oven

Of course, before you build even a miniature version of a Russian stove, you will need to make a small foundation. If wooden floors are installed in the room or gazebo, then a small concrete slab should be poured under the base.

The next step is to build a guardhouse from red brick.

Similarly, you need to build the walls and arch of the combustion chamber.

The vault is filled with sand, after which the front wall, mouth, hearth and over-pipe are formed.

A very simple scheme, there are no crooked channels or multi-level transitions that drive amateur stove-makers crazy. You can build a mini-oven for baking in 3-4 days of easy work. More complex versions of the Russian mini-oven can be built with your own hands in 10-12 days with an 8-hour working day.

Arrangement of the Russian mini-stove “Housekeeper”

The desire to build a universal version of the Russian stove forces amateur stove makers to experiment with might and main with the possibility of installing additional combustion devices. Among heating specialists, the most successful universal option, which has good efficiency and at the same time small size, is considered to be a mini-furnace developed by I.S. Podgorodnikov under the working title “Housekeeper”.

To understand how difficult it is to build a mini-stove, just look at the detailed diagram - the order.

In order to build a mini-oven measuring 100x150 cm, you will need to lay 33-34 rows of bricks.

In the first row, it is important to immediately correctly tie the bricks laid along the perimeter of the base; this determines how strong the connection of the walls to the foundation will be. From the second to fifth rows it is necessary to build blower channels for the furnace and auxiliary firebox.

On the sixth row, the firebox chambers are covered with grates. When working from the seventh to ninth rows, you need to build the walls of the main firebox, after which they move on to the construction of the chamber hearth. When laying the tenth to twelfth rows, the channels are closed, a cast-iron hob is installed, then you need to build the walls of the furnace and the arched vault of the main combustion chamber. The fifteenth and sixteenth rows complete the bundle of walls with internal partitions.

To build the overpipe, a 30x30 mm steel corner is laid on the seventeenth row, along which a chimney and transition to the base of the chimney will be formed in the future. From the sixteenth to the eighteenth row you need to build the arched vault of the crucible. The vault is filled with backfill, further rows cover the sky with double bricks.

When laying the remaining rows, from 20 to 25, ventilation ducts, connecting the overpipe and the outlet of the auxiliary firebox with the common intake of the main chimney pipe.

According to experts, the smoke channel assembly is the weakest and most vulnerable point of the Russian mini-stove, but there is no way to build it any other way. All other schemes are either too heavy and cumbersome, or too weak. Often, it is in this place that the base of the chimney breaks, cracks appear, due to which the draft drops, soot and smoke are thrown into the room, and the stove begins to smoke.

Option with water heating box

In one of the latest modifications of The Housekeeper, the craftsmen propose to build a prefabricated unit flue gases from thick-walled coaxial pipes made of stainless steel. The idea is not new. Such inserts are widely used in the manufacture sauna stoves. Based on a tubular structure, it is possible to build a hot water tank.

The stainless steel insert simultaneously performs three functions:

• Acts as a patch that prevents flue gases from leaking into the room;
• Reduces the heat load on the chimney;
• Collects coal soot if low quality firewood is used.

The dimensions of the space in the chimney pipe are relatively small, so it is not possible to build and install a container with a large supply of water.

If it is necessary to build a mini-oven with a water tank of 20-30 liters, then a niche is made in the side of the furnace wall for installing a rectangular tank. At the stage from the 5th to the 8th masonry rows, next to the main firebox, a cavity is laid out into which a container is embedded. To ensure that the walls of the tank do not come into contact with the flame and do not burn out, you need to build a separate channel for combustion products and fence off the container with a partition. Sometimes, instead of a tank, craftsmen build in a stainless steel coil, through which water can be heated without the risk of the brickwork being punctured by the expanded metal of the hot container. The same coil can be used if you need to build a moonshine still to produce distilled water.

Do-it-yourself repair of brick stoves

It is almost impossible to build a stove that does not require maintenance and periodic repairs. Sometimes the situation with the stove is simply outrageous, for example, they plan to build the combustion chamber for light firewood, but during operation they prefer to heat it with coal. Sometimes a Russian stove is split open in an attempt to quickly warm up a room frozen in the cold, loading the combustion chamber with fuel, like a fireplace. In any case, repairing a Russian stove is much more difficult than building it, so craftsmen always advise rebuilding the brick body; for them it’s easier than bothering with finding and solving the problem.

Lack of traction

It is believed that the first and main condition for the successful operation of a Russian stove is the presence of stable draft. If you build a chimney with transfer channels in the over-pipe according to all the rules of stove science, then there will always be draft above the mouth of the stove, even if the firebox has not been used for a long time.

There may be several reasons why there is no normal removal of combustion products:

• Soot overgrowing of transition channels and the coldest part of the chimney;
• Use of substandard or unsuitable fuel;
• The appearance of hidden or obvious cracks in the masonry of the upper rims, through which air leaks from the room into the chimney tract.

Most often, owners blame the craftsmen who were entrusted with building the stove. Even if you build a stove according to the most complex design, with a large number of chimney channels, their presence has virtually no effect on the operation of the firebox, but cracks in the walls of the chimney, lack of insulation, or incorrect pipe outlet on the roof can cause reverse draft.

First of all, you need to make sure that there are no cracks on the stove body; most often, the outer surface of the walls is whitened with lime, and most of the defects are clearly visible as black smudges.

The problem of a “lazy” chimney can be solved in several ways, for example, you can properly insulate the pipe and clean it more or less regularly. For low, large-section chimneys, it is imperative to build a soot or chimney tooth, which collects most of the dirt and debris that gets into the chimney.

The next step is to clean the firebox and planter. Before building a furnace, you need to consider how to clean the channels, especially turns and dead ends, where most of the debris and soot are deposited. Over the summer, a large amount of cobwebs can accumulate in the pipe, leaves and small twigs get in, through which it is very difficult for air to get through.

The most desperate owners, instead of building an inspection window with a valve, prefer to clean the pipe with a torch and even by pouring and burning a small amount of gasoline or natural gas. Strong shock wave in the chimney, even if you build a rotary elbow, it knocks out all the dirt and soot back into the firebox of the Russian stove, so the method does not always give the expected result.

You can try to restore traction by burning a small amount of charcoal briquette on the cooking surface. After about half an hour or an hour, the chimney will warm up and the stove will operate in the required mode.

Cleaning a Russian stove

It is clear that the operation of the stove is greatly influenced by the quality of the firewood or briquettes used. If you burn with birch wood, which produces heat and a minimum of soot, then you have to clean the stove no more than once a year. To make work easier, windows or doors need to be built on the over-pipe and fireboxes, through which you can remove the remaining mineral ash from the grates, sweep out sand and crumbled clay.

Some experts recommend building on a pipe exhaust fan, with the help of which you can simplify ignition of the stove, electric supercharging also helps when cleaning the channels of the Russian stove - fine dust and dirt are mostly blown out through the chimney.

Strengthening the frame of a Russian stove

One of the most complex problems, which one has to face during operation, is the subsidence of the walls of a Russian stove on a weak foundation. There are two ways to strengthen a stone box:

• Dismantle part of the masonry, lay reinforcement and a corner under the bottom of the furnace combustion chamber, build an internal frame that tightens the walls;
• Construct an external tension band from steel strips and reinforcement.

The second option is quite possible to implement with your own hands, since you do not need to break the brickwork and seal the cracks with repair mortar. In both cases, steel strips are connected into a bandage using threaded rods, nuts and spring washers welded to them.

Strengthening and replacing the fire door

Problems with the firebox door usually arise when you try to build a firebox that is too hot. Due to air leaks through the gap, the hot metal intensively burns and corrodes, even despite the heat-resistant paint. Over time, the wire and door frame fade, and the design needs to be changed.

To replace the frame, cut the frame into two parts with a grinder, cut the wire from the inside and pull out all the parts from the opening. To prevent flames from hitting the door, you need to build a barrier in front of the opening, for example, lay a whole fireclay brick on its edge. To install a new door, the frame is pulled onto a piece of stainless steel wire and the cracks are filled with asbestos cord and then fresh repair mortar.

Replacing the hob

Many customers, before building a Russian stove with a hob, spend a long time and carefully selecting a cast-iron stove on which to cook “quick” dishes. On the market you can buy a standard slab made of Chinese cast iron or domestic pigment material. But this is not the same. Modern slabs are too thin and easily burst from impact. Often, a Chinese cooker bursts even from a falling brick; before the stove has been built, it needs to be repaired.

It is possible, as the experts advise, to build the cooking surface of the stove from cast iron grates, but in this case the efficiency of the firebox drops by 10-15%.

Before building a Russian stove, it is best to find an old hob from the 50s of the last century with a set of rings. The quality of cast iron is very high, so the slab is not cut or polished; you need to build the size of the mouth and hearth of the furnace to match the dimensions of the cast iron.

Replacing the stove in the stove is simple - the old cast iron is cut with a grinder, split and knocked out of the niche. Next, the support groove is cut to the size of the new plate and the part is placed in place. The ends and seams are rubbed with fireclay clay.

Replacing the grate

To properly replace the grates, you first need to remove the old parts and understand the reasons why the thick cast iron grates burned out or cracked. The main reason for the failure of the grate is considered to be non-compliance with construction technology or the use of coal mixed with crushed stone or rock.

If built according to all the canons, the grate bars in the furnace can last 30-40 years. To install a cast iron grate in fireclay or brick masonry, a support niche is cut to the size of the grate, plus a 3-4 mm thermal gap. If you build the firebox differently, the grate may split the brick or, more often than not, crack. If you use dirty coal as fuel, individual pebbles will get stuck between the bars of the grate and, when heated, can break off the part.

As a rule, the dimensions of the grate and firebox door of a Russian stove are selected in such a way that the cast-iron grate, turned diagonally, passes freely through the frame opening. In this case, the damaged element is simply replaced with a new one. If the firebox niche had to be built larger than the size of the opening, then the grate is assembled from two halves connected by wire.

Sealing gaps and cracks

The formation of cracks in brickwork is considered to be the most common defect. Even if you try to build a kiln with a weekly exposure for every 3-4 laid rows, there will still be no guarantee that the masonry mortar will not crumble and the brick will not crack. The nature of the behavior of the material can only be known by a stove maker who has had the opportunity to build several dozen stoves from the same clay and brick.

A crumbled seam can be repaired with thin clay, crushed and soaked in water. The damaged area in the furnace masonry is cleaned of clay residues and sprayed with water. The clay, crushed into a long cord, is placed at the joint and pressed tightly into the free space with a wooden stick.

If the depth of the defect is more than 5 cm, then the seam is treated with a mixture of lean clay, sand and horse manure. The bricks are laid in two stages, with intermediate cold drying for 10 hours. Cracks in the bricks are sealed with a purchased mixture, most often with masonry mortar for fireplaces, otherwise, fireclay mortar.

Replacing the bricks of a Russian stove

Large thermal stresses in the walls of a Russian stove often lead to deformation and even destruction individual elements masonry Bricks with a crack are rubbed with clay and lime; material with a collapsed front or bond surface must be replaced.

To do this, use a thin chisel to knock out the mortar from the seams and remove the bricks. The replacement uses the same material as the entire oven. As a rule, in order to build a stove, bricks are purchased with a 5-7% reserve of the estimated quantity. The brick is cut with a wedge and hammered into the mortar with a wooden mallet.

There is only one reason for the destruction of bricks - low quality material. Previously, in order to build a Russian stove, heavy red bricks with a mark were purchased. And a Russian stove could stand for a hundred years without any fireclay. Today, building a box from branded brick is not a guarantee; the material may crack even during the first firing of the furnace.

Replacement and repair of tiles

The situation is considered normal when the cladding lasts for 20-30 years without repair or replacement. Individual cracks are rubbed with lime or sealed with liquid glass. If the material is installed on the walls using an adhesive solution, the tiles are soaked with water and carefully removed. Replacement is carried out in the same way as in the case of brick.

If the customer tried to build the furnace lining on steel wire, then he had to remove whole line, from corner to corner. To build the lining, it is necessary to restore the wire fasteners on the walls of the furnace and stretch the wire along the entire row. Next, sequentially tying each tile onto a metal mustache, the row with the damaged area is restored. It will take at least four hours of working time to build one row of cladding.

Replacing the pre-furnace sheet

A simple device in the form of a thin metal or cast iron sheet is used to block hot pieces of ash and coals that have fallen from the furnace firebox. It is possible to build a classic Russian stove without protection, since the space at the exit from the firebox is reliably blocked by the mouth and hearth. If the stove does not have a hob, then the outlet can be covered with a sheet of roofing steel. This makes it easier to remove ash when cleaning the furnace.

More complex stoves, “Teplushka” and “Economy”, must be built with pre-furnace sheets, since the additional combustion chamber is separated from the room by only a thin door. They simply change the sheet, turn out the old fasteners, fill the screw holes with mineral glue and attach a new piece of iron over the holes.

Furnace repair

The crucible, or combustion chamber of the stove, has always been and remains the most intense and loaded element of the Russian stove. It cannot be built in any other way; due to constant heating and cooling processes, the walls of a Russian red brick stove lose their masonry mortar, may crack or even lose individual blocks.

In the classic Russian stove, fireclay was not used; it was enough to build a chamber from hardened bricks with a high content of “scorched” or aluminous clay. The huge size allowed the stove maker to climb inside and determine the place that had to be repaired or rebuilt. If it came to the walls of the furnace, then it was possible to get by with replacing the brick; the vault had to be dismantled and rebuilt.

In modern Russian stoves, repairs can only be made by professional stove makers, and even then, most of them prefer to move the stove and rebuild the firebox.

Repair of hearth and ceilings in a Russian oven

Under or the bottom of the combustion chamber, especially the area adjacent to the back wall of the furnace, heated up the most. A slanted hearth platform for burning wood had to be built next to a relatively cold ledge for a cast iron pot or a pot of food. If you try to heat the stove with coal, especially in winter or after long downtime, a crack appears in the bottom. Many stove makers try to build a hearth in two parts, and fill the joint between the hot and cold parts with mineral backfill crumbs.

To repair a furnace with a monolithic hearth, you have to dismantle the masonry from the back side and completely rebuild the base of the chamber.

In approximately the same way, roof repairs are carried out. Most often, under load, the surface of the roof is forced into the chamber; in this case, it is necessary to remove the plaster, brick and level the screed made of sand and clay. Damage to the roof can be effectively prevented by building a bench with a wooden panel made from oak boards.

Repair of the chimney of a Russian stove

A drop in draft and smoke in the room are the first signs pointing to the fact that things are not as good as we would like with the chimney of a Russian stove. Simply put, the chimney began to crumble. Depending on the extent of the damage, the masonry can be repaired, or the chimney will have to be rebuilt. If the owners had the wisdom to build a channel from high-quality bricks, then it makes sense to fight for its health and normal operation.

The first step is to find the location of the damage. Often, in order to simplify the process of lighting a cold Russian stove, owners try to build a pipe with a larger cross-section, with a brick wall thickness of up to 120 mm. It turns out to be an incredibly heavy structure, which is not entirely correct. Similar errors appear if, for example, a master who builds fireplaces tries to build a Russian stove. This is where a chimney is required, like a blast furnace; when the fireplace is running, most of the heat flies into the chimney. For a Russian stove, it is best to build a chimney made of stainless steel, with a cross-section of 180 mm, carefully insulated with basalt wool and lined with M250 red brick.

The desire to build a chimney for a Russian stove, “like in a book,” leads to the fact that the section of the brick pipe from the stove body to the first cutting simply crumbles and cracks, the brick crumbles and falls out. In this case, the pipe is covered with a steel bandage and hung on supports. The section of masonry located below with damaged bricks is dismantled and cleaned, then the entire row of the pipe contour needs to be built or rebuilt.

Sometimes, due to freezing condensation or atmospheric moisture, the brick at the top of the chimney crumbles. It is better to disassemble the damaged section of the Russian stove pipe and completely rebuild it. If the owners did not have enough money to build a protective casing made of metal, then after the repair they need to install a protective canopy and treat the brick walls with a solution of liquid glass.

Replacing the lining in a Russian stove

Modern Russian stoves are difficult to build without using fireclay lining of the combustion chamber. Firstly, the dimensions have changed: instead of a huge brick colossus weighing more than a ton, customers prefer to build a Russian stove in a smaller version. The amount of fuel burned remains the same, and the size of the firebox is almost four times smaller. It is believed that an almost eternal firebox can be built from fireclay or dinas. This is not entirely true. Parts of the lining that come into contact with the flow of cold air burst and crumble.

If the crack is small, then you can replace one brick from the row. In case of complete destruction or the appearance of a long chain crack, the lining of the Russian stove must be dismantled and a new masonry rebuilt. Most often, for this you have to disassemble part of the front wall, the mouth and the over-pipe of the Russian stove. To make it easier to lay bricks in the firebox, before installation you need to build the lining dry, without mortar, on open area, adjust to size, and only after that send it to the crucible of the Russian oven.

How to decorate a Russian stove in the house

A Russian stove cannot be treated like a simple potbelly stove. Many stove builders say that before planning and building a stove box, they have to select the optimal location so that the massive brick structure does not interfere with the residents, is not bumped into when walking, and is not touched by clothing or body parts. It is best to build a Russian stove in a corner, so that the main heating side is directed to the center of the room or to the front door.

The second issue that must be resolved before building a brick box is related to the design and decoration of the walls. There are many options, and each has its own advantages and disadvantages.

Methods for whitewashing a stove

Treating the walls with lime solution helped to effectively dry the surface of the brickwork. It was not always possible to build a Russian stove so that soot, fumes and smoke did not show through defects in seams and cracks, so whitewashing helped to mask black spots.

If a Russian stove had to be built in a corner, whitewashing with lime served as a kind of indicator of the condition of the wall in remote nooks. When a microcrack appeared, the lime instantly turned yellow under the influence of deadly carbon monoxide and let the owners know that they needed to take action before they got burned. A Russian stove with lime whitewash can be built even in a dugout; lime completely kills dampness and soil odors.

For whitewashing, use a roller or brush. Salt and liquid soap are added to the lime solution. A Russian stove needs to be whitened twice a year, at the end and beginning of winter.

Plastering and painting a Russian stove

No matter how hard the craftsmen tried to build a Russian stove neatly and beautifully, to ideally bring out the plane of the walls, the brickwork, especially after the chimney pipe had settled, was always left with small humps.

Modern facing brick allows you to build a box of a Russian stove, as they say, as in the picture. In the simplest case, the brick is primed, covered with steel mesh and plastered. Cement-sand plaster with the addition of a small amount of lime makes it possible to build the ideal geometry of the walls of a Russian stove. Again, so that the plaster does not turn black under the influence of heat, and stains from the masonry mortar do not come out, salt is added to the mixture.

Such a box can be easily tiled with tiles, tiles, or simply painted with acrylic paint.

Lime plaster perfectly improves the health of the room, especially in cases where the house is built on soil with high level soil waters.

Decorating a Russian stove with tiles

The pinnacle of design thought in the decoration of a Russian stove is considered to be the decoration of walls with tiles. Many artists argue that a Russian stove needs to be built only in order to create in the room the rich color of ancient hand painting on baked clay.

Tiles have a serious drawback - the complexity of installation; to build a cladding from painted clay tiles, you will need to manually adjust each tile on the wall of a Russian stove. The cheapest cast tiles can be made with your own hands. To build a simple heating surface for a Russian stove, all you need to do is hammer fasteners into the walls and hang the tiles on hooks made of chopped steel wire.

The fashion for red brick in the interior of a living space is safely fading; most owners want not only to build a Russian stove, but to make it as similar as possible to the classic design options late XIX century.

In addition to improving appearance, the tiles have especially practical use. Thanks to the air gap between the brickwork and the clay body of the tile, it is possible to create a surface that will never be scalding hot, drying out the air in the room. Surprisingly, heat transfer only increases.

Finishing a Russian stove with tiles

Instead of very expensive tiles, the price of which can reach several hundred rubles per piece, external cladding can be successfully built from wall tiles. The heat transfer will remain quite high, as with tiles, but the surface will heat up to a very high temperature of 70-80 o C.

You can build the lining of a Russian stove from several types of tiles:

• Porcelain tiles. Excellent appearance, dense structure, with the help of porcelain stoneware you can build an almost airtight casing for a Russian stove, making brickwork safer;
• Majolica, tiles with hand-painted surfaces, turns out very beautifully, but building a Russian stove lining from majolica will cost more than finishing with tiles;
• Terracotta clay and mosaic tiles. Both options are considered the easiest to install. The smaller the tiles, the easier it is to build a surface with your own hands that will look perfectly flat.

The tiles are glued to the walls using heat-resistant glue; if you need to line a Russian stove with expensive majolica, then it is better not to experiment, but to use branded material for brick stoves, for example, SCANMIX Skanfixsuper. Cheaper cladding can be built on the basis of Plitonite for fireplaces or inexpensive SILTEK T-84.

Russian stove in a stylish interior

Designing the appearance of a Russian stove has always been and remains the most pressing issue in communication between the designer and the stove maker who has undertaken to build the stove. It’s clear that coming up with the decor and design of a Russian stove is much easier than building and putting your plans into practice. Most craftsmen are hostile to innovations, so a lot has to be thought out and remade before the master manages to build a new element of a brick box.

Russian style

It is difficult to build a Russian stove without using its main advantages: a huge body, a massive pipe and a spacious stove bench. Most often, the Russian style is associated with a plastered and whitewashed stove body, on which are installed shelves, items of national dishes, cast iron pots, a poker and a shovel for placing bread in the firebox.

The rustic style is easiest to build in a house made of timber or logs. In more modern interior a huge oven will only be annoying, so it makes sense to build a mini oven in the same Russian style.

It is clear that the stove bench and stove are used only as a decorative element and a place to store various attributes, from lamps to pots of herbs. Such a stove can easily be built from plasterboard or OSB boards. Formally, we get a situation where everything we see as a Russian stove is actually just kitchen furniture.

A more modern image of a Russian stove can be built on the basis of finishing with tiles or painted tiles.

Country oven

To decorate a Russian stove in country style, it is not enough to build a high-quality stove; you will need to select a whole arsenal of items and attributes. To achieve a lasting impression of a Russian country-style stove, among other things, the stove only needs to be built live.

This means that the main style-forming element in the country spirit remains the performance of the Russian stove itself. Country style is always functionality and simplicity. You need to build a working stove; the smell of firewood and birch coals, baked bread and simple products will become the main decorative elements for a Russian stove.

For a real rustic style, it is best to build a classic version of the stove with huge sheets or even a warm trestle bed, mandatory finishing with leveling plaster and whitewashing or painting with white acrylic enamel.

If desired, countryside, rural style based on a Russian stove can be built in any more or less renovated room. It is enough to get rid of everything connected with modern technology, and build an interior using stove utensils and dishes. Any decorative dishes, pots, cast iron pots, potholders and spatulas for baking bread will only add realism.

Russian stove in Provence style

A more modern image of a Russian stove can be built on the basis of the Provence style. This is a peculiar mixture of provincialism with classic, albeit slightly outdated forms of decoration and design.

In the simplest case, a Russian Provence stove is decorated with painted tiles or tiles. When designing the style and choosing the interior, it is usually recommended to build the stove in the corner of the room. This placement is considered one of the most practical, although in the 18th-19th centuries huge Russian stoves decorated with tiles were often built in chambers and in the center of the room.

It is quite difficult to build a Russian stove in a modern interior, with wallpaper and suspended ceiling. The stove goes best with wooden utensils, clapboard walls, ceilings and floors with an original wood pattern. If the design of the house allows, then the finishing of one of the walls adjacent to the stove can be built from facing red brick.

A Russian stove lined with simple two-color tiles looks much more elegant and lighter. Such a mini-oven can be built in the dining room or kitchen as a functional addition to a gas or electric stove.

In addition to tiles and tiles, Russian stoves have always looked good when finished with terracotta or warm-colored natural stone. Such a stove can be built in the yard or near the entrance to the basement, fortunately there is enough space.

High tech

It seems impossible to build a full-fledged Russian stove, preserving all its functions and capabilities, and at the same time combining an archaic type building with a modern high-tech interior. The objects are too different.

In practice, the problem is solved in two ways. Firstly, the brick body and firebox elements can be hidden under additional anodized aluminum cladding. Metal, like no other material, allows you to build a modern interior in combination with any design. Due to the high thermal conductivity of metal, you can control the heating of the room and even build cold and hot zones in the kitchen or dining room. At the same time, the Russian stove does not lose its functionality and efficiency, the firebox will remain as hot as possible throughout the day, and a cool atmosphere will remain in the kitchen.

The Russian stove, even built in a mini-factor, always took up a lot of space. To build a rather large brick box inside the kitchen, you have to sacrifice the utility room next to the kitchen. Most of the body had to be placed in a niche, and only the front wall of the Russian stove overlooked the kitchen.

Alternatively, a mini-oven can be built as an addition to a furniture wall, dividing a huge studio into two sectors – a kitchen and a relaxation area. In this design, the stove is hidden behind the furniture, and the end location of the mouth and firebox only increases the comfort of handling an unsafe furnace. In this way, it is possible to solve two problems at once - to build and hide a stove in a modern studio interior and at the same time provide effective heating during the cold season.

Minimalism of the Russian stove

A Russian stove can be built as an element of expensive room decoration, and, if necessary, artificially simplified and aged to suit the requirements of the minimalist style. For example, you can build a Russian stove without any additional attributes or details in the center of a living room trimmed with polished wood. Nothing superfluous, but this stove looks quite stylish and beautiful.

With the help of a massive box of a Russian stove, you can effectively fill the central space in a large room, which is usually empty. If the ceilings are higher than three meters, it is best to build a Russian stove in a classic design, as in the photo. In addition to filling the interior, the stove is capable of solving very real problems with heating or cooking.

A small stove in a minimalist style can be separated from the kitchen and placed in a free area of ​​the room, thereby creating a warm area for children to relax and play. According to this scheme, there is no longer any need to build a separate warm floor or heated floors for a winter country house. The tiled walls make handling the Russian stove as safe as possible, and the small dimensions of the body allow you to build the box in almost any convenient place in the building.

IN small spaces, especially log huts, timber and frame houses, building a stove according to the Russian scheme means completely solving the kitchen problem. The brickwork can be plastered or hand-safely coated with rich clay. After such finishing, the stove is perceived as a real artifact of history. You can build a peasant mini-stove for a country house in literally a week.

Conclusion

Modern stoves, created on the basis of the Russian design, can be very different, more functional and easier to use. But, oddly enough, this does not make them leaders in demand. Before building a Russian oven, the future owner goes through a huge number of options, from pizza ovens to huge oven complexes with barbecue and hot shower. For many years now, the leader among stoves for the home has been the classic Russian design with a built-in stove; its efficiency today is almost 80%, and this is quite a lot by modern standards, even for modern technology.