How to cook bitumen correctly and from what to fill a garage roof, what proportions are needed? How to dilute bitumen during private construction or repairs? Let's look at the methods and techniques Bitumen mastic for waterproofing the foundation with your own hands
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A building material such as bitumen has been used for pouring roofs for a very long time. Perhaps the reason for the popularity of bitumen is its cheapness. But preferring it to others more expensive materials, do not forget that bitumen is short-lived. Direct sunlight and rays pose a particularly great danger to it, as this causes it to begin to melt and flow. And in winter time severe frosts cause it to crack and this can cause leaks in the garage roof.
But if you still decide to use this building material, like bitumen, then consider the process of preparing it for pouring.
In order to prepare about 10 kg of bitumen mastic, you will need:
- 8.5 kg bitumen
- 1 kg of filler (it can be peat chips, asbestos, chalk sawdust, crushed mineral wool etc.)
- 0.5 kg of used crankcase oil.
It is best to cook the bitumen mixture in a boiler with thick walls, with a tightly closed lid. In thin-walled containers, bitumen can burn.
The bitumen should be heated gradually over low heat.
The heating temperature of bitumen ranges from 160-200 degrees. Heat for 1-3 hours depending on the heating temperature, the higher it is, the less we heat the bitumen.
At temperatures above the specified maximum (220 and above), coke is formed in the bitumen, which significantly worsens the properties of the bitumen (it can crack).
The surest sign of bitumen overheating is the appearance of green-yellow smoke and bubbles.
Cook the bitumen until smooth and a glossy surface appears.
After this, remove it from the heat and add filler and crankcase oil in small portions. And immediately we begin to carefully pour hot bitumen onto the garage roof, which by this moment must be thoroughly cleaned of all kinds of contaminants, dried and prepared for pouring. When applying bitumen, we use kvatch or apply bitumen in bulk.
Then roofing material is glued onto the hot bitumen to further prevent overheating of the bitumen in the sun.
You can cook bitumen for pouring roofs yourself over a fire, take a barrel or a large pan (since you usually need a lot of bitumen), take 10 kg of resin, a liter of waste (motor oil, can be purchased at a service station) and a kilogram of construction chalk.
We put the bricks on an edge, a container on it, resin in the container (put about a couple kilos, and then when it melts, add the rest), light a fire under the container, using small wood chips (try to keep the fire low so that the resin melts and does not boil around straightened pieces.
As soon as the resin melts a little at a time, add chalk and pour in the waste, stir thoroughly - everything is ready, you can resin the roof and glue the roofing felt.
The prepared bitumen will harden in the container when it cools; it can be reheated and used.
Filling the roof with bitumen is a necessary task and this work must be done so that you don’t have to return to it for a long time, so that there are no leaks. And this is done simply the old fashioned way, so to speak. We take a large old container - for example iron barrel, throw pieces of bitumen into it (it’s better to make smaller pieces), put it on a tripod and light a blowtorch and let the bitumen melt completely. Then we add waste to the bitumen (this is spent machine oil) stir thoroughly and then chalk and stir too. The proportions are: 10 kg. bitumen; ! liter of waste; 1 kg chalk.
All athletes know what sports equipment it is necessary to carefully and regularly care for skis, even if they are used exclusively by amateurs for family or hiking trips through the winter forest. Every novice skier should know how to tar their skis and learn how to do it correctly before hitting the snowy trails.
Ski resins, paraffin and ointments are used to improve performance sports equipment:
- Improve grip on the snow surface. To check this indicator, you need to lower the lubricated ski into the snow, apply a little pressure cargo part and pick it up. You can talk about good grip when snow remains stuck to its entire surface.
- Improve gliding with special means, which will provide excellent skiing on any type of snow. You can check this indicator by lowering the ski with adhered snow, which was checked for traction, again onto a snowy surface and moving it back and forth several times. There should be no snow left on the slippery surface.
- Increase the holding properties of plastic and wooden products when they are so slippery that there is no way to push off normally.
Resining will also protect wooden products from excessive moisture, prevent them from becoming saturated with melt water, and increase the density of the wood and its resistance to external factors.
What products need to be resinized?
Fewer and fewer athletes are faced with lubricating sports equipment with resin. This is due to the fact that only wooden products need to be treated with this product, and they are increasingly used for skiing.
Wooden sports equipment should be resined at the beginning of each season, as well as before their first use. Properly processed and prepared for use, new devices will last much longer than untreated ones, and during storage in the hot season, the material from which they are made will not dry out or crack.
How to tar at home?
In order for skiing to bring joy, you need to consider in advance the question of how to properly resin wooden skis. In order not to waste time looking for workshops that can work with such sports equipment, it is better to immediately use the home processing method.
It is necessary to consistently follow all the steps described in the instructions. Otherwise, the inventory will be poorly processed, and unpleasant memories will remain from the walk.
Choosing a location for the procedure
Ski ointments and resins contain harmful chemical substances, which will evaporate when heated. It is better to carry out processing on outdoors or at least on the balcony. If this is not possible, you need to stock up on protective gloves and a respirator.
To position the skis with the bottom surface up, you need to install two or three chairs and place the products on them so that they are positioned level without tilting.
Selecting a Heat Tool
To ensure that the ski resin saturates them evenly, the surface of each wooden ski is heated before applying it. To do this, you can use the following tools:
- gas burner;
- industrial dryer;
- blowtorch.
You can use any of the listed heating tools that are available.
Necessary equipment
To tar wooden skis, you need to prepare:
- special resin (you can use birch tar purchased at a pharmacy as a lubricant);
- a scraper or sandpaper, a brush with brass padding;
- rags, cloths made of synthetic materials;
- lubrication remover;
- brush;
- heating tool;
- gloves;
- spacer;
- silver or ointment for holding, primer.
Process description
Instructions for resinizing wooden products consist of the following steps:
- In order for the new layer of impregnation to adhere well to the surface, you need to wash off the old lubricant with turpentine or a special remover. You can remove the remnants of the old coating with a scraper, and then walk over the surface with sandpaper.
- Preheat the container with the resin in a glass with warm water. This way the substance will become liquid and be better distributed over the surface being treated.
- Place the ski on chairs in a horizontal position, heat one third of the surface gas burner(or other tool), avoiding charring of the wood. Apply a layer of resin to the heated part of the ski and spread it with a brush in a thin layer.
- Heat the tarred ski until the resin begins to bubble, which should be smeared again with a brush. Then process the remaining two-thirds of the ski in the same way.
- In order for the new lubricant to dry better, it is recommended to leave it for a day. Then reheat the surface and apply a second layer of resin, treating light areas especially well.
Resin stains should be promptly removed with an old rag before it has time to absorb or stain the floor.
After the procedure
If tarring is carried out before the new season, then after the treated surface has dried, a special primer and ointment must be applied to it for holding. If the weather is warm, then to prevent snow from sticking, you can cover the sliding surface with silver.
What to pay attention to
If after treatment the skis will be left in storage until the next season, they should be placed with their tarred surfaces facing each other in a cool, dark place. You can't link them. For storage, special clamps are used, which simultaneously serve as spacers.
Attention! Before use, the equipment should not be treated with wax, as it will make the surface slippery, which will make it difficult to move uphill.
Preparing sports equipment for the skiing season is mandatory, even for beginner athletes. It is almost impossible to ride untreated products. Properly carried out preparatory activities will protect equipment from damage and rapid wear.
When restoring a roof or insulating a basement, the question often arises: how to dilute the bitumen? Roofing on new buildings is rarely filled with it, since today there are many more attractive options for insulating and covering it. But on old houses, over the decades of their existence, such a layer of roofing material has accumulated that, apart from bitumen, there are practically no restoration options left (after all, it is sometimes not even possible to remove multiple layers).
Dismantling roofing felt “pies” is so labor-intensive that people try to push it as far into the future as possible, especially if the building is not residential - a garage, barn, summer cuisine, extension. And for coating waterproofing foundation bitumen and still remains one of the most popular materials - cheap, quite reliable, accessible to independent use, even though the work involves heavy physical labor and some danger in carrying out. True, if the goal is to get the most reliable possible foundation waterproofing, it is better to glue waterproofing or the same roofing material over the bitumen. Left alone, the bitumen coating quickly cracks and begins to let moisture through.
How to dilute bitumen in private construction or renovation? As we see, this question still remains relevant when constructing foundation protection and when repairing old roofs. Therefore, it is worth taking a closer look at this, which is what we tried to do in this article.
Features of bitumen processing
Gone are the days when bitumen existed only in one, solid, variety. Now there is quite a wide variety of waterproofing materials of this type:
- hard bitumens;
- liquefied bitumen;
- bitumen-rubber mastics;
- bitumen-polymer mastics.
The primer is made as follows:
- Bitumen breaks into small pieces. It is advisable to carry out this operation in the shade - when heated in the sun, it becomes sluggish and splits reluctantly.
- The fragments are immersed in diesel fuel or used oil. By volume - so that the solvent covers the pieces completely, but does not form a large layer above it.
- When the liquid turns the color of bitumen, it is ready to be used as a primer.
How to melt lump bitumen
If we consider solid bitumen as a waterproofing material, then it must be melted before use. And this step cannot be avoided. Moreover, in its pure form, bitumen is not very suitable for application (and continued existence with operation).
Firstly, it hardens too quickly.
Secondly, it does not fill the pores too tightly - it is too viscous and dense.
Thirdly, very soon the layer begins to crack. Therefore, when working with bitumen, the following algorithm is usually followed:
- Bitumen, broken into pieces, melts into metal barrel over low heat. Moreover, the fire should be as slow as possible: with rapid combustion in selected places the material is already beginning to coke from overheating, while in others it still remains solid.
- After melting, it is left on the fire until foam stops appearing, that is, dehydration stops.
- Filler is poured into the container, which is best choice is dissolved asbestos, but it is quite difficult to find. So usually cement, chalk, gypsum (including alabaster), talc, ground clay, etc. are taken. Pursued goal: preventing the formation of pores by coating.
- When the filler is mixed, a solvent is added - it will prevent the bitumen from hardening too quickly.
The approximate ratio of the components is as follows: half the volume is bitumen, 30% is diesel fuel, the rest is fillers.
It remains to add a couple of clarifications. Firstly, do not forget that bitumen is a flammable material and can burst into flames if overheated or too intensely heated. It is useless to extinguish it with water; you need to keep a tin lid on hand to stop the access of oxygen. You need to be especially careful after adding diesel fuel: in its pure form, bitumen ignites at 230 degrees, with a solvent the flash point is significantly reduced.
Second: many suggest using waste, gasoline or kerosene as a solvent.
If we can completely agree with the first option, then the last 2 are no good: the substances are very volatile and flammable. Most of it will evaporate before it fulfills the purpose of the solvent, the rest will increase the flammability significantly.
Liquefied bitumen
There is no need to heat it, it is already in a consistency suitable for application. However, it may thicken over time. In this case, the following are used to dilute it:.
- low octane gasoline. On the one hand, it is a cheaper and more accessible solvent, but the fire hazard is high, as is evaporation. The presence of open sources of fire (in particular, smoking) is unacceptable, and there is a risk of inhaling vapors to the point of poisoning;
White spirit is more expensive, but much safer. - The solvent must be added little by little, stirring constantly. Remember that it is lighter than bitumen and collects on the surface. If you accidentally overfilled it, you can wait for separation and simply drain off the excess.
Bitumen mastics
The solvents remain the same regardless of whether the second component is rubber or polymers. Mastics are good because they can be used when it’s already cold outside. In addition, they do not need heating. However, when low temperatures mastics become too viscous. Solvents are added to overcome their reaction to frost. You can use them as:
- gasoline - works great, but the mentioned disadvantages do not go away;
- kerosene. Preferably an aviation one, which may cause problems. Household ones are not clean enough and can deteriorate the quality of insulation. In addition, it, like the previous position, is flammable and volatile;
- White Spirit. The only downside is the cost. Despite its relative cheapness, it is needed in large quantities, so it will cost a pretty penny;
- turpentine: thins mastic quite well, inexpensive, less volatile and flammable than gasoline and kerosene, but the smell is very characteristic;
- nefras, also known as gasoline “galoshes”;
- acetone, solvent, 646. The most suitable solvent will be the one recommended for specific species mastic by its manufacturer. So before deciding how to dilute bitumen or mastic from it, read the manufacturer’s recommendations.
Mastic bitumen type used in construction, it is used as a waterproofing material. During production, various additives are added to the mastic, which change the properties of the composition. In order to prepare a composition efficiently, you first need to determine for what purpose it will be used.
Mastic has differences that depend on the additives used in the manufacture of the composition.
Mastics are distinguished by the peculiarity of their use: the hot material is heated to 160 degrees, and only then they begin to apply it to the surface for waterproofing. When the temperature rises to this level, bitumen becomes plastic and is easy to apply.
Cold-type compositions differ in application technology; the mastic is diluted with a special solvent, and there is no need to heat it. After the material hardens, the solvent elements evaporate. Bitumen in liquid form must be smeared all over immediately after opening, otherwise it will simply dry out.
The materials also differ in the type of use; the compositions are one-component and two-component. The composition of the first type can be immediately applied to the surface after opening the container, but the material must be used all at once, otherwise it will harden and become unsuitable for further use. This type of mastic does not require any additives; it is immediately ready for application.
The two-component composition must first be prepared and then applied, and the coating has better qualities.
What additives are used to dilute bitumen mastic?
Before diluting bitumen mastic, you need to determine what functions it should perform, so the material can be of the following types: bitumen-rubber, bitumen-polyurethane, bitumen-oil, bitumen-latex, and bitumen-rubber. These materials are based on bitumen, and as auxiliary elements they are used polymer additives, depending on which the properties of the mastic change.
Polyurethane and rubber additives make the composition more elastic, the mastic has the ability to stretch without cracks or tears forming.
Elements oily type They prevent the composition from hardening; such mastics protect pipes and other communications from moisture penetration. For roofing works such material is not suitable.
By adding crumb rubber, strong and reliable coatings are formed that have long term services. This composition can be used on any surface; it is resistant to vibration, stretching, and mechanical damage, capable of carrying significant loads. This mastic can be used to protect roofing, wooden and metallic look. It dries within 24 hours, and full strength is achieved in a week.
If rubber is added, the composition can be used cold; heating is not required, and the surface will be uniform and uniform.
How do you dilute bitumen mastic?
The mastic is applied to the surface at temperatures from -10 to +50 degrees, first it must be stirred well. To simplify application, bitumen mastic can be diluted with a special solvent organic look, this includes toluene, gasoline or white spirit. Such solvents are used if the mastic is too thick and difficult to work with; the elements must be introduced gradually, while the composition is well mixed. The solvent in the mixture should not be more than 20 percent, otherwise the composition will be of poor quality. These solvents are used to clean working tools that were used to apply bitumen mastic.
How to apply bitumen mastic correctly?
Bituminous mastic is applied in two ways: manual and mechanical. When using a sprayer, the application is of better quality. The first method is used if the surface has small sizes. And sprayers are used to treat surfaces significant size. This method of application is of higher quality and makes it possible to seal hard to reach areas. Thus, mastic is applied to the surface of the walls and roof. This composition includes rubber crumb Thanks to this, the mastic becomes elastic and durable, resistant to external influences.
First, the surface is cleaned of dirt and delamination, if any. All defects in the form of cracks and chips must be covered up, that is, everything should be leveled, then dried, and a primer applied in the form of a bitumen primer. You can purchase it or make it yourself:
- Gasoline or engine oil is heated in a container, after which small pieces of bitumen are gradually added.
- Then the composition is heated to a temperature of 200 degrees and constantly stirred.
Bituminous mastic is applied using a sprayer, roller or brush, it depends on the volume of the surface to be coated. The composition is applied in strips that overlap; it should be no more than 10 centimeters. After the first application has dried, apply the second layer. If the thickness of the mastic reaches 4 layers, then reinforcement using fiberglass mesh is required.
If the surface is wet, the material will be difficult to work with. Mastic is best applied to a dry and warm surface, with a hard brush or spray. The layer thickness should not be less than 2 millimeters. When working with mastic in hot weather, apply it in several thin layers.
When bubbles form, they are cut, dried, and filled with mastic using fiberglass.
Consumption of bitumen mastic
The amount of mastic consumed with the addition of crumb rubber and rubber will depend on the thickness of the layer and how many of them will be applied. For example, if you need to glue roofing felt, then the consumption will be up to 800 g per m2.
If the material is used as insulation, then with a layer of 10 millimeters, it takes up to 18 kilograms per m2. With a latex additive, the material consumption will be up to 7 kilograms per m2.
The material consumption for insulating surfaces is not small, but the coating is of high quality. If the insulation is performed in one layer, for example, for basements, foundations and other structures, then the consumption of mastic with latex will be up to 7 kilograms per m2. To treat the roof, up to 4 layers are usually made, and a special reinforcing mesh is used. When using mastic with the addition of oils, the consumption is up to 1.5 kilograms; if two layers are applied, then up to 3.
Bituminous mastic is used for various purposes: arranging the roof surface, performing roof repairs, filling seams and joints, protecting and waterproofing various surfaces.
In order to dilute bitumen mastic, use solvent, toluene, gasoline, white spirit, and in extreme cases, kerosene can be used. Some formulations can be diluted with regular or used oil. Before diluting the composition, it must be heated. This surface will take a little longer to dry than without thinning.
Bituminous mastics may contain various additives that change the properties of the composition, for example, crumb rubber or rubber contributes to the elasticity of the material; it is not susceptible to cracks and damage during stretching. If bituminous mastic is too thick and difficult to apply, then the composition is diluted to the required consistency using organic solvents. Application of material mechanically is of higher quality, as it allows the composition to spread evenly on the surface and treat hard-to-reach areas.
How and from what to cook bitumen for pouring a garage roof, what proportions are needed?
A building material such as bitumen has been used for pouring roofs for a very long time. Perhaps the reason for the popularity of bitumen is its cheapness. But if you prefer it to other more expensive materials, do not forget that bitumen is short-lived. Direct sunlight and rays pose a particularly great danger to it, as this causes it to begin to melt and flow. And in winter, due to severe frosts, it cracks and this can cause leaks in the garage roof.
But if you still decide to use a building material such as bitumen, then we will consider the process of preparing it for pouring.
In order to prepare about 10 kg of bitumen mastic, you will need:
- 8.5 kg bitumen
- 1 kg of filler (it can be peat chips, asbestos, chalk sawdust, crushed mineral wool, etc.)
- 0.5 kg of used crankcase oil.
It is best to cook the bitumen mixture in a boiler with thick walls, with a tightly closed lid. In thin-walled containers, bitumen can burn.
The bitumen should be heated gradually over low heat.
The heating temperature of bitumen ranges from 160-200 degrees. Heat for 1-3 hours depending on the heating temperature, the higher it is, the less we heat the bitumen.
At temperatures above the specified maximum (220 and above), coke is formed in the bitumen, which significantly worsens the properties of the bitumen (it can crack).
The surest sign of bitumen overheating is the appearance of green-yellow smoke and bubbles.
Cook the bitumen until smooth and a glossy surface appears.
After this, remove it from the heat and add filler and crankcase oil in small portions. And immediately we begin to carefully pour hot bitumen onto the garage roof, which by this moment must be thoroughly cleaned of all kinds of contaminants, dried and prepared for pouring.
How to dissolve bitumen - we act carefully and accurately
When applying bitumen, we use kvatch or apply bitumen in bulk.
Then roofing material is glued onto the hot bitumen to further prevent overheating of the bitumen in the sun.
You can cook bitumen for pouring roofs yourself over a fire, take a barrel or a large pan (since you usually need a lot of bitumen), take 10 kg of resin, a liter of waste (motor oil, can be purchased at a service station) and a kilogram of construction chalk.
We put the bricks on an edge, a container on it, resin in the container (put about a couple kilos, and then when it melts, add the rest), light a fire under the container, using small wood chips (try to keep the fire low so that the resin melts and does not boil around straightened pieces.
As soon as the resin melts a little at a time, add chalk and pour in the waste, stir thoroughly - everything is ready, you can resin the roof and glue the roofing material.
The prepared bitumen will harden in the container when it cools; it can be reheated and used.
Filling the roof with bitumen is a necessary task and this work must be done so that you don’t have to return to it for a long time, so that there are no leaks. And this is done simply the old fashioned way, so to speak. We take a large old container - for example, an iron barrel, throw pieces of bitumen into it (it’s better to make smaller pieces), put it on a tripod and light a blowtorch and let the bitumen melt completely. Then we add waste (this is used machine oil) to the bitumen, stir thoroughly, and then chalk and stir too. The proportions are: 10 kg. bitumen; ! liter of waste; 1 kg chalk.
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Do-it-yourself bitumen mastic for waterproofing the foundation
Preparing mastic and primer
Mastic is universal waterproofing material, widely used during construction work. This material is a product of bitumen remelting, devoid of such disadvantages of bitumen as brittleness in frost and excessive fluidity in extreme heat. The mastic has a fairly viscous consistency, so it can be applied to vertical surfaces in a fairly thin layer. Over time, this layer does not float.
DIY mastic
To make mastic yourself, you will need:
- pieces of pure bitumen,
- fillers,
- plasticizers.
Let's say you want to gain 10 kilograms ready mixture. Then take 8.5 kg of pure bitumen, 1 kg of filler (forest moss or sawdust, peat, mineral wool, rubber crumbs, asbestos), 0.5 kg of plasticizer (waste oil). It is best to cook mastic in special cauldrons equipped with thick (at least 3mm) walls and a lid. Such walls will allow the heat to be evenly distributed so that the bitumen does not burn.
Cooking rules
- The boiler can be loaded no more than 70%. Otherwise, the mastic may spill out.
- The boiler must be installed not directly on the fire, but away from it on a stand.
- It is best to maintain the cooking temperature within 190C. With more high temperatures bitumen may decompose.
- Try to avoid temperature changes - in the end you will get a mastic that is homogeneous in composition. How do you know if the temperature is too high? Very simple. The first sign of overheating is the appearance of yellow-green bubbles.
Cooking process
- Before starting cooking, crumble large pieces of bitumen into smaller ones and clean them of dirt and sand.
- The entire process of melting bitumen should proceed very slowly, over about three hours.
- The filler must be crushed, dried and heated.
- Fillers and plasticizers should be introduced gradually.
- The boiling mixture must be stirred regularly (using a shovel) and the foam removed from it.
- After the foam has subsided and the surface of the mixture becomes completely smooth, you can add a plasticizer.
- Then mix everything thoroughly again.
- That's it - the mastic is ready.
Best before date
It is advisable to boil the mastic immediately before using it. It cannot be stored longer than 24 hours. During use, the mastic must always be hot (approximately 120°C).
DIY primer
It is not advisable to apply mastic to bare surfaces. The surfaces must be given good adhesion in advance, for which they are cleaned of debris and primed. Priming will provide high level strength of the applied mastic layer.
The composition of the primer is simple: a solution of bitumen plus gasoline in a ratio of one to three.
Cooking process
- In order to prepare the primer, you need to place hot (about 70°C) bitumen in gasoline.
- Bitumen is added in small portions and mixed until completely dissolved.
- To avoid the presence of solid inclusions, the primer can be filtered through a fine metal mesh.
Application
The primer must be applied in two layers (or three layers).
Wait 10-15 minutes before applying subsequent layers. Then the surfaces are covered with mastic.
Articles about walls in country houses
Is it possible to heat up bitumen using a microwave field?
It turns out that there is a way to heat up bitumen and thickened petroleum products in tanks. It is usually used in railway transport and at washing stations for steaming tanks. In this case bitumen heating occurs with the help of a microwave field and directed radiation, the range of which ranges from 400 to 1000 MHz, as well as a number of other factors.
The device itself is mounted in a mini-hangar, which is installed on an overpass and has an output window. A manipulator is mounted on guides under the hangar roof, on the platform of which a microwave module with a blower is placed. The design includes a waveguide path with an emitter and a screen cover with plates.
The peculiarity of the process is that the heating of bitumen and petroleum products is carried out not only with the help of directed radiation and magnetic field microwave module, but also the heated air flow that comes out of the blower. With the help of a manipulator, the screen cover is lowered to the neck of the tank, where it is attached accordingly.
After this, the heating process itself begins.
It takes from thirty minutes to two hours. The time depends on what the initial temperature of the bitumen was, as well as whether the tank drain valve was warmed up before, which can also subsequently slow down the subsequent drain. At the same time, heating of the bitumen continues even after it begins to drain, so that the material does not harden subsequently, which is especially important when negative temperatures.
The efficiency of this method of heating bitumen is quite high. As a result, the frozen substance turns into a fluid one, and more than 98-99% of the bitumen located there can be drained from the tank. This is especially true for large containers, such as tank RVS 3000. What happens to the rest? As shown practical use installations, at negative temperatures thin layer bitumen located near the walls of the tank is not subject to the radiation field and practically does not warm up.
Do-it-yourself foundation waterproofing
This is confirmed by the cold outer walls of the tank even after several hours of operation of the microwave module.
Attempts to somehow correct the situation by moving the installation did not yield results, and as a result, several percent of bitumen, with this method of heating it, is written off as waste.
But this is not the most main drawback installations. Warming up bitumen using similar process is associated with high energy consumption, even with short operating times of the microwave field. There are a number of other nuances. It is extremely important to install the screen tightly on the tank neck without any holes. Their appearance can lead to sparking of the field, which is unsafe from the point of view of fire safety conditions. It is also not recommended to use the installation outdoors, due to the possible reaction of microwave radiation to atmospheric humidity. To warm up the tank and drain the bitumen, you must use a well-heated mini-hangar.
In general, this method of heating bitumen, patented several decades ago, has proven itself positively and has found its way wide application on railway transport and when draining oil-containing substances from a tank.
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Petroleum products from Standardoil: Alkylate - 44,000 b/n (Ryazan) Straight-run, Nizhny, octane 60, density. 0, 74- 32000 b/n Furnace dark (oil), city.
Bitumen for roofing
Perm - 14850 b/n, density 0.9, flash 20, hardening -20 ...
We sell light heating oil for 32 rubles/liter
SibirEnergoKomplekt LLC offers the supply of light heating oil at a price of 32.00 rubles/liter. The fuel characteristics correspond to DT K-5. Loading by truck in fuel tankers or railway tanks.
Combustion blocks RIR TB-TO with indirect heating coolant
The plant - manufacturer of RIR-standart, is a manufacturer of combustion units / heat generators / heat exchangers of the RIR brand. RIR TB-TO combustion units with indirect heating of the coolant eliminate the possibility...
Combustion blocks RIR TB-TO with indirect heating of the coolant
The plant - manufacturer of RIR-standart, is a manufacturer of combustion units / heat generators / heat exchangers of the RIR brand. RIR TB-TO combustion units with indirect heating of the coolant eliminate the possibility...
News & Events
Today, Russia’s first innovative oil products shipment center of the LLK-International company (a subsidiary of OJSC LUKOIL) opened in Volgograd, reports VolgaPromExpert. ...
Today, a new loading terminal was opened on the territory of the Volgograd Oil Refinery (a 100% subsidiary of PJSC LUKOIL) bitumen products and lubricants. ...
The material is planned to be supplied by the Kochenevsky Oil Refinery. At a meeting of the Ministry of Transport and Road Facilities of the region, representatives of the plant and road...
Gazprom neftekhim Salavat began production of bitumen according to the new GOST
The new bitumen standard GOST 33133–2014 was approved by the Eurasian Economic Commission on December 29, 2015 among the lists of GOSTs. About the release of new bitumen…
The production of bitumen with an extended service life began in the Kama region
Lukoil-Permnefteorgsintez (a 100% subsidiary of PJSC Lukoil) has started producing petroleum road bitumen grade “BND 100/130”, which meets the new standard GOST 33133...
Salavat bitumen is used for the construction of federal highways
The new bitumen standard GOST 33133-2014 was approved by the Eurasian Economic Commission on December 29, 2015 among the lists of GOSTs. The document tightened the requirements for low-temperature…
Information
Buy packaged bitumen
An innovative petroleum products shipping center opened in Volgograd
LUKOIL built an innovative petroleum products loading center at the Volgograd Refinery
IN Novosibirsk region will use bitumen locally produced for road repairs
Bitumen mgo 70 130
An innovative petroleum products shipping center opened in Volgograd
LUKOIL built an innovative petroleum products loading center at the Volgograd Refinery
Locally produced bitumen will be used to repair roads in the Novosibirsk region
Catalog of organizations and enterprises
LENSAHAR
Production and distribution of packaged and lump, beet and lump sugar under trademarks: Kuskov, Tradition, New Caprice, Svita, Confer.
Ural brick
Ural Brick LLC, a subsidiary of Ural Steel OJSC (OKhMK), has great potential and stability in production. Manufactured products: — Red ceramic brick GOST 530-95 — Fire brick…
Bitumen Ukraine
Russian Bitumen
Wholesale trade of petroleum products…
PromStroyBitumen LLP
PromStroyBitumen LLP (Astana) is the official dealer of the Rukan plant (Pavlodar), which means that OUR PRICES DO NOT EXCEED THE PRICES OF THE MANUFACTURER. Bitumen: — Road bitumen grade BND 60/90, B...
On an ongoing basis we sell road bitumen and fuel oil M100 produced in Mozyr. Road bitumen – FCA Korosten Fuel oil M100 – FCA Kropyvnytskyi…
Offers for purchase and sale of products
Viscous petroleum road bitumen BND 60/90, 70/100. From 20 tons Services for delivery of cars by bitumen carriers.
We supply road bitumen from 20 tons at a cost of 14,300 rubles/ton BND 60/90, 70/100, 90/130, 100/130, PBB, BN 90/10 manufactured by: Saratov Refinery, Ryazan Refinery, Syzran Refinery, Novokuybyshevsk Refinery, YANG...
Selling asphalt concrete plant
Asphalt concrete plant
Asphalt mixing plant with a capacity of 160 tons - Power unit hoppers 8 pcs - Burner on liquid fuel— Container for bitumen 5 pieces of 50 cubic meters — Oil heating boiler — Bunker for accumulating…
Road bitumen BND 60/90 90/130 self-filling.
Foundation waterproofing technology with bitumen
Quality certificate upon request, product quality and prompt shipment are guaranteed! Delivery is possible by our bitumen trucks, as well as pickup. Also before...
Mixers of the UMB "BITUM" series for PBB and BND of different brands
Paddle mixers. The drive part is a gear motor. The propellers are located on the shaft in two tiers. Designed for the production of polymer-bitumen binders (PBV-60, PBV-90, PBV-130), bitumen emulsions…
Press extruder coal dust ZBJ-8 new from China
Coal dust extruder press ZBJ-8 Description The ZBJ-8 extruder is designed for the production of coal briquettes from coal dust using “cold pressing” technology. The main raw material for pressing coal…
The reader already knows a little about what a substrate is. It allows you to firmly secure the plate being processed, softens the impact force and ensures precise execution of the contour and relief. Plastic materials are used as filler for the substrate. You can use canvas bags filled with sand, on which the punch is carried out general form relief. For individual shallow parts, sheet lead or rubber is used as a substrate.
Resin backing
The most common backing material is resin. Natural resin was used in ancient times, mixing it with sand for greater viscosity.
Currently, it is easier and more affordable to use artificial resin - bitumen. Its viscosity and other properties depend on the brand. For embossing work, it is more convenient to use bitumen No. 4 and 5, but you can mix resin No. 3 and 5 in equal proportions. Bitumen No. 3 is too liquid and melts quickly, so it cannot be used without additives when composing the substrate.
You can give the resin additional viscosity if you mix it with well-sieved river sand in a ratio of 1: 3. If the sand norm is exceeded, the substrate will turn out to be very hard, which will affect the quality of the coinage. There are many fillers to create extra softness and stickiness, but the most commonly used are wax and rosin. The wax content should not exceed 10% of the total volume; very little rosin is required.
Before pouring into the box, the mixture is heated to liquid state and mix thoroughly until smooth. The resin is most often heated on a fire, which can be lit outside, or done at home on an electric stove in a well-ventilated area. It is preferable to heat the resin on an electric stove, since when it comes into contact with an open flame, the hot resin will ignite.
The heat should be even and low: on high heat, the resin begins to bubble and may catch fire. Since the volume of resin increases slightly when heated, there is no need to fill it into the container to the brim. For stirring, use a special metal spatula with a long handle to avoid getting burned by splashes.
When heating resin, safety precautions must be observed. If molten bitumen gets in contact with the wood, it may catch fire. A resin fire is very difficult to extinguish, so in case of a fire, it is better to stock up on a fire extinguisher or have a supply of water on hand.
Hot resin is poured into pre-prepared boxes (Fig. 111).
Rice. 111. Boxes for substrates: a – wooden; b – metal.
Their dimensions should be several centimeters more sizes workpieces, and their depth depends on the height of the relief. Boxes are made of both wood and metal.
The walls of the wooden box (Fig. 111, a) should be no thinner than 15 mm, and the metal box (Fig. 111, b) is made of tin or roofing iron so that the resin in it can be heated by placing the box on an electric stove.
When pouring, you must pay attention to ensure that there are no voids left in it, since in the voids the metal can break through under the impact of the hammer. If bubbles still remain, the tar is heated deeply and stirred.
After the resin has hardened, it upper layer reheat blowtorch or an electric heater and level it with a special mixer. In addition, it is recommended to warm up the plate a little.
The workpiece is carefully lowered into the softened resin at an equal distance from the edges, making sure that it does not sink completely into it. For uniform tarring, the surface that a metal sheet comes into contact with the resin, first degrease it. To prevent air bubbles remaining under the plate, it is not lowered immediately, but starting from one edge, pressing it to the surface with a clean cloth, as shown in Fig. 112.
Rice. 112. Grinding a metal plate.
It is very important that the metal is tarred over the entire area, otherwise it will be impossible to correct the defects of the future product.
From time to time, when working on high reliefs, it becomes necessary to heat up the resin that has already been poured into the boxes. Metal boxes convenient to heat directly on electric stove, but its spiral must be closed.
If the boxes are made of wood, then the filling can be heated by placing the box on a baking sheet in a regular oven. gas stove. In this case, you need to be very careful: if the temperature is too high, it may catch fire, even if no flames reach its walls.
More often resin in wooden boxes heated using a heating device fixed above them, which is installed at a distance of 20–25 cm from the top layer.
You can also use electric heaters with mirror reflectors (Fig. 113).
Rice. 113. Heating using electric heaters.
For volumetric coinings, special pots can be used as a support. They are extruded from sheet steel in the shape of a hemisphere. Fill the pot with heated resin so that it slightly protrudes above the top edge in a mound. Before the resin has completely hardened, you need to prepare a place on the pot for the product. The hot resin is covered with wet paper (so that the resin does not stick to the metal) and the workpiece is lightly pressed into the resin. An imprint is formed in which the product will be well held. When working, you need to place a ring stand made of rubber under the pot.
From the book: Korshever N. G. Metal work