How to install a stove in the house with your own hands. DIY brick ovens: secrets of the craft. Main types and structure of brick kilns

A small brick stove can sometimes be quite useful, especially if you do not have a large room and do not live in it permanently. It will quickly warm up the room and create a comfortable environment.

Today we will tell you how to make a small brick oven with your own hands, what you need to take into account for this, and we will offer instructions on manufacturing rules. You can also watch the video in this article and select the modification you need.

Mini ovens and their features

Small brick stoves for summer cottages also have their own characteristics; you should familiarize yourself with them before making a final decision.

• The compactness of a brick or appliance structure is considered the main condition for a small room;
• An important condition for such a stove is safety, because usually country houses are built from wood, which dries quickly in the sun and, if hit, can easily flare up like a match. Among other things, the chimney pipe and the device itself must be sealed; they have excellent internal draft, because carbon monoxide, which gets inside, can lead to quite sad consequences;
• The oven, which is placed on summer cottage in winter, should withstand without kindling enough for a long time and not to be soggy at the same time;
• Warming up and quick lighting of the device, the spread of heat is also the most important condition for a stove of this type, because when it rains or when completing difficult work, you want to relax in a warm room and drink hot tea;
• It is desirable that such a stove be equipped with large doors so that it can perform the functions of a fireplace, because it is almost impossible to do without evening gatherings next to the fire;
• Long-term heat retention is extremely necessary if you are going to a house overnight;
• Without hob in country house it is almost impossible to get by, especially if the electricity in the village periodically turns off and there is no gas supply;
• Also an important factor is the fuel used for the stove. To save money, choose an omnivorous heating device that can be heated in various ways - brushwood, coal, firewood or household waste;
• It is desirable that the stove has the ability to install a hot water supply register;
• The simplicity of the design of the heating device allows you to fold and install it yourself, which saves a tidy sum, because the services of craftsmen in this regard are not cheap;
• An important point is aesthetic appeal, because with the help of the device you can transform a room, or add general design some kind of gray spot.

Brick ovens

A small brick stove for a summer residence is used quite often.

But during installation you will need to consider the following points:

• The stove can be installed in such a way that it will distribute heat to several rooms without heating circuits. If the furnace was installed correctly and the valve was installed, it is considered fireproof, but a strong foundation will need to be created for this building, which will be isolated from the foundation walls. This bathroom condition, if you do not comply with it, then the masonry may lose its integrity, because when the foundation of the house shrinks, it can begin to pull on the base of the stove;

Attention: Do not forget that such stoves do not like long periods of downtime and dampness, therefore, in order for the heat transfer to be maximum after a period when it was not used, you need to carry out several drying fires without significant loads. In each of them we gradually increase the amount of fuel - this process usually called overclocking.

• It is precisely because brick is afraid of dampness that such stoves are installed in a dacha only when people live in the house most of the time and there is the possibility of burning it;
• Residents of private houses consider only those buildings made of brick to be useful and real. Wherein heating devices made from other materials are not recognized at all. In fact, such a stove will give the room a special coziness and unique atmosphere. And what’s more important is that they are multifunctional. Professionals in the stove business have developed a huge number of different models from which you can choose for a specific option.

Installation of a small stove

A small brick oven can be installed with your own hands without any problems.

There are two options here:

• First option, you are simply making a stove with a foundation. Then the price of the building will increase, but it will be a fairly heat-intensive structure;
• Second option, this is if you do not have enough funds and do not have the skills. Then it is quite possible to install a metal stove and simply cover it with bricks to increase the heat capacity.

Attention: In the first option, your structure will take up more space and the heat transfer will be higher.

Materials that will be required for the work

You will need:

• Twenty liters of clay mortar;
• Boards;
• About sixty bricks;
• Blower door;
• Cast iron plate;
• Fire door;
• Lattice;
• Fireclay brick.

The size of a small stove occupies 0.4 m2 and is made of brick, which is laid on an edge or flat. This type The oven perfectly retains and distributes heat.

The design is quite simple, because the mini-oven does not weigh too much and the construction of a foundation is not a prerequisite. The floor should be made of thick and durable boards that are well secured.

Such a stove on its own is an alternative to a potbelly stove, but it has more functionality and a heating part, which includes a cooking part. It also plays the role of a fireplace. Such a furnace can be erected without any problems and within 24 hours.

At the very beginning, you need to light the stove with paper and wood chips, but do not take logs, because sudden temperature changes may cause cracks in the solution. This will further lead to smoke or improper air movement.

Before starting the oven, it is necessary that it dry thoroughly. Usually this takes about a week.

Masonry mixture

Everything can be done with your own hands. Then the price will be significantly lower. It is quite possible to use several compositions in masonry. What to choose is up to you.

So:

• For bricklaying, clay-sand is used, cement mortar. For example, screenings instead of sand for the mixture are used to fill the foundation, and a mixture of cement and sand is used for one or several rows of masonry. If for the M400 cement brand ¼ is added, then for screed the screenings must be mixed in a proportion of 1/6;
• It is a little more difficult to prepare a solution of sand and clay, because it will take much more time. In order for the lumps of clay to break, they must be soaked in water in the evening, and those that remain in the same state should be kneaded with your hands so that no small lumps remain;
• The ratio of clay and sand is one to two or one to three - everything here depends on the degree of fat content of the solution (this is checked with a trowel). The consistency is considered normal when the solution slides off the trowel without any problems, leaving no traces, and in its thickness it should resemble mashed potatoes.

How to make a stove

Now let's look at how to make a small brick stove in detail. It has its own technology and procedure.

In order to properly build a stove yourself, you must follow the following recommendations:

Attention: Fire-resistant material must be used for the combustion part. It will also withstand coal burning. It is better to use a clay mixture as a solution. It is the most practical and durable.

• We choose a suitable place for the mini-stove, and instead put roofing felt, film, glassine or hydrosol into it. The size of such material should be 78x53 centimeters;
• You need to pour and level sand onto the litter (the thickness of which is about a centimeter);
• On top of it we lay the first row of twelve bricks, which do not need to be fastened together. After this, we align all the bricks to the same level so that they are strictly horizontal;
• A small layer of clay is applied to the initial row, after which you can begin installing the blower door. It is extremely important that it is wrapped in asbestos cord or cardboard. We secure it with wire, after which you can safely move on to laying the next one;
• Fireclay brick is used for the third row of the mini-stove, after which the grate is installed. It is mounted above the ashpit only when the third brick row is completely formed;
• We make the following from bricks, but we lay them on edge; in the middle of the chimney it is necessary to lay supports for the internal partitions. The back wall of the stove is laid with a slight protrusion outward and without the use of clay - they are called knockout bricks;
• After this we install the combustion door. Again, before you begin installing the door, you need to wrap it with cord in such a way that it can be opened from the bottom up. It is secured with wire and fixed for a while with several stones. The first one is placed at the back, and the second one is placed on top of the door;
• Also, to ensure reliable fastening, a wire is inserted into the holes, twisted and the ends are laid in order;

• The fifth row is made flat; here we make sure to check the outline of the previous row. But the sixth row is laid edgewise. Then we rub the walls of the large stove with a wet rag and proceed to the next stage;
• On the 7th row we lay the brick flat. Next, we place a couple of bricks edgewise and proceed to back wall;
• When the time comes for the 8th row of the stove on your own, make sure that it overlaps the combustion door above which it will end. It is at this time that we install a beveled brick over the firebox so that the flame is directed to the center of the stove burner;
• We lay out a soaked asbestos cord in advance so that the space between the bricks and the slab is completely sealed. Since cast iron and clay have different coefficients of thermal expansion, we do not lay the slab on clay. Afterwards you can move on to the ninth row, but here it needs to be shifted so that the doors are kept open;
• When working with the following, you will need to form a chimney that will expand at the rear. To make a stove of just such a design, there is no need for a mounted pipe, which will expand at the top, since this type pipe will lead to a change in the center of gravity. Exist various schemes chimneys. They are: horizontal, straight, countercurrent, combined, and so on. In our design, the stove should have a direct version;
• When working with the next row, do not forget to insert a plug, which is sealed with a cord (it is advisable to additionally coat it with clay);
• Thus, the pipes will be connected to the metal one. If the smoke flue goes to the side, then it must be blocked with several brick rows;
• After this, we remove the brick from the fourth row and clean the pipe from dirt that has accumulated during construction work;
• We whiten the stove. We protect the metal part of the stove itself and its walls with film. To prevent it from turning yellow over time, it is necessary to add milk to the solution and not a large number of blues. Each piece of the stove must be processed in the most careful way, special attention is paid to the joints of bricks and cast iron surfaces;
• Carefully seal the gaps between the first row and the floor. This is necessary so that the sand that was poured under the brick does not spill;
• Afterwards, we nail a plinth along the edge of the building, which will protect the stove from sand spills. We nail it level and tightly to cover all the cracks. Thanks to such actions, the stove will look even better;
• As soon as you carry out the first fire with wood chips and paper, leave all the doors and burners in the open position for several days so that everything dries thoroughly.

A small brick stove for a summer house is made quite quickly and will last a long time. The main thing is look at the photo and choose the right option. The instructions will prevent you from making mistakes.

Since ancient times, heating and cooking stoves have been present in houses. They acted as the main component of any rural home. Nowadays, people living in private houses in the city also do not refuse to install this structure. It has not lost its functionality, so it is actively used by many.

Even if the house has a heating system running on gas or electricity, many people do not want to turn it on full power on autumn days when the house becomes cool. In this case, a stove will help ensure a comfortable microclimate in your home. It is enough to throw a few logs into the firebox and your home will quickly become warm.

If you decide to acquire this structure in your home, then the task of its construction must be approached with all seriousness, since the stove is built with the expectation that it will last for decades. It doesn’t matter whether you build a heating stove with your own hands or a stove with a stove. Therefore, if during construction process Mistakes will be made, and it will be extremely difficult to correct them later.

Speaking about stoves, we note that they are divided into structures for single and two-story houses. The main difference between them is the height. The structure being built may have a slab or be used only for heating. In the second case, there is no slab as a component element. The height of a do-it-yourself oven depends on the number of rows in the design. Next, we will look in detail at how to build a stove with your own hands in a private house.

Materials for masonry

Calculation of materials is extremely important point when laying a stove with your own hands. In addition, the quality of the structure affects its service life. The stovetop oven we are looking at in this article typically measures 90 x 90 cm at the base. As for its height, the structure does not reach its highest point to the ceiling of the first floor by 2.1 m.

Before you start building a stove with your own hands, need to purchase materials in sufficient quantities that will be used in its construction. During the work you will need:

• red brick M150 in the amount of 1085 pcs.;
• sand-lime brick for the construction of a firebox, 150 pcs. Instead, you can use fireclay;
• sand - 80-100 buckets;
• clay – 200 kg;
• corner 50x50 mm and 40x40 mm;
• steel wire 2 mm - 25 m;
• metal sheet 4 mm 1.5 × 1.5 m;
• roofing felt -3 m;
• asbestos cord 5 mm - 10 m;
• material for wall insulation.

The construction of the foundation also requires the preparation of appropriate materials:

• sand;
• cement;
• fittings;
• crushed stone;
• boards for formwork.

In addition, to build a full-fledged stove with a stove with your own hands, which can be used for heating your home and cooking, you will need to purchase cast iron parts:

• grate - 1 pc.;
• hob with two burners - 1 piece;
• valves - 3 pcs.;
• two doors for combustion chamber and blowers 1 pc. each;
• cleaning doors - 5 pcs.

After the materials have been prepared and the builder has them at his disposal necessary tools, you can move on to the active phase of work.

Foundation

Accepting the fact that the structure being built has a large mass, when constructing a foundation with your own hands deepen it no less than 80 cm. However, when carrying out foundation work, one should take into account climatic features area of ​​residence, as well as the depth of freezing. You can find out about this from local builders. Taking into account all these points, a stove built with your own hands according to the chosen scheme will last a long time.

The pit for the foundation being constructed must have a square shape. As for its dimensions, they should be 1.2 × 1.2 m. You can easily dig it with your own hands, using hand tools- a shovel.

After completion of the excavation work, the bottom of the pit is compacted. Then at the bottom a sand cushion is arranged, for which it is important to withstand optimal thickness layer equal to 10-15 cm. Next, crushed stone is poured in a layer of 15 cm, which after laying it needs to be compacted, and then install the formwork. This must be done with the expectation that it will pass through the entire thickness of the foundation.

Pouring the foundation for the future furnace is carried out in several stages. The first layers may consist of mortar, which is made from cement and pebbles. The top layer must be filled with concrete made from sand and cement. Taking into account the weight of the structure, the foundation must harden long time, at least three weeks. This is important, because otherwise a stove built with your own hands, even in accordance with the selected scheme, will not last long. A crack in the foundation will require repairs.

When the base of the oven with the stove has gained sufficient strength, the formwork is removed, and the upper part of the foundation is covered with waterproofing material– three layers of roofing felt. The first brick laying with your own hands will be done further on it.

Compared to a fireplace, the design of a stove with your own hands is more complex. Therefore, the construction scheme must be strictly observed.

Due to the fact that the area of ​​the foundation is larger than the base, markings should be made on the waterproofing. After this, you can proceed to laying the first row.

If a vertical layout of rows is used, then it must be remembered that the chimney channels should not be too narrow. Their minimum size- 13 × 13 centimeters.

The sequential layout scheme for a heating and cooking furnace assumes the following: already from the first rows of masonry, its layout should include a blower chamber. When laying the second row begins, a blower door is installed, which is wrapped with asbestos cord before being installed in the opening intended for it.

When installing the door, a wire is wound around it, which is clamped between two bricks. When it is completely framed with masonry, the wire is bent to the sides.

When they reach the fourth row of the furnace, holes are marked on it for the circulation of heated air. On the fifth stage, the firebox grate is laid. When constructing the firebox wall and its threshold, it is permissible to use sand-lime brick.

The combustion door is installed on the sixth row. It, just like the blower, is wrapped with asbestos cord.

From 6 to 10 rows you need Special attention pay attention to the shape of the holes that will ensure air movement inside the structure. The tenth row, if possible, must be fastened with a frame welded from a corner. On the 11th row, a hob is placed on a pre-laid asbestos pad.

The corner is laid on the seventeenth row. The 18th row of masonry will lie on it, which will complete the framing of the chamber above the slab.

On the 19th-20th rows of masonry, drying chamber. On the 19th row, the cleaning door is installed.

Once again the metal corner is laid on the 24th row of masonry. On him a continuous row of bricks will be laid, which will become the ceiling of the dryer.

The cleaning door is installed on the 25th row.

On the 30th row, two valves are installed.

All subsequent rows up to the 38th are performed according to the scheme, and the next ones form part of the furnace that goes to the second floor. Note that this part of the furnace has a different numbering in order. Its laying is carried out according to the following scheme:

• The door installation is performed on the 2-3rd row. It is used for cleaning;
• installation of the chimney damper is carried out on the 27th row;
• the part of the stove installed on the second floor should have the shape of a wide chimney. It must be equipped with a valve and a chamber. It is gradually replaced by a narrow pipe, which begins at the level of the 32nd row.

An umbrella is placed on the top of the pipe, which prevents dust and moisture from getting inside it.

Furnace diagrams

Furnaces that are built in private homes with their own hands can currently be divided into two groups:

• modern devices;
• outdated designs.

Building outdated structures with your own hands is not a problem. However, they have an imperfect design, so most often houses have stoves and stoves, which differ in their functionality.

If you decide to build a stove with a stove in your home or just a heating structure with your own hands, then you need to approach the task of choosing them with all seriousness. Getting to know the benefits of ovens different designs will allow you to do right choice. If a private house already has a stove with an old-style stove, then in this case there is no need to build the structure from scratch. It is enough to remodel it and you will have equipment for heating and cooking at your disposal.

To avoid mistakes during the remodeling process, you should first read the video and various instructions how professionals do this work. It is also necessary to use drawings during work. By applying the knowledge gained, you will be able to get a good result upon completion of the work - you will have a stove with a stove, built with your own hands.

One of the common types of stoves is two-tier. If we talk about its structure, then we note that it consists of two designs- one stands on top of the other. Each part of this structure has dimensions of 165x51x238 cm. When the furnace is operating, the heat transfer in the lower part is 3200 kcal/h, and in the upper part - 2600 kcal/h.

When building such a structure with your own hands, the two structures are separated from each other by masonry made of bricks with voids. This allows you to reduce the weight of the stove and save during its construction a certain amount of material. The lining, which is used to fill the space between the upper and lower oven, also acts as a base for the first structure.

Both the upper and the lower ovens have exactly the same design. In the case under consideration, a ductless smoke circulation system is implemented. Once in the firebox, the gases move into the upper cap, which is equipped with a special nozzle. After the gases cool, they sink to the bottom to the level of the firebox. Then they go into the chimney through the underpass.

For a lower stove, the chimney runs through the top, so the heating surface is smaller. Included top structure There is a separate chimney. The process of its laying does not contain difficult moments. The gas movement pattern is also simple. There is a door in the back wall through which cleaning must be carried out bottom structure. Cleaning the upper structure must be done through the door located in the side wall. Either coal or anthracite can be used as fuel for a two-tier stove. Each of the pipes created in this furnace is additionally equipped with a valve.

A reinforced concrete slab is often used to cover the top of voids. This type of overlap provides stability, and in addition makes the furnace structure as a whole more stable. When performing masonry of such volume, errors must be excluded. Indeed, if they occur, repairs will be extremely difficult.

Great care should be taken in the design of the chimney located in the lower structure of the furnace. If there are leaks in the masonry, then in this case You may experience heat leakage from the wall, which separates the pipes on the second floor. Note that this will also happen when the smoke valves are closed.

Ovens with a stove or any other type can be combined into any array, regardless of whether they have a square or rectangular shape. The type of fuel also does not have special significance. For a country house, a stove built with your own hands can become ideal option heating

A stove of this design has dimensions of 102x102x238 cm. If we talk about its heat transfer during operation, it is 4200 kcal per hour.

One of its important parts – the firebox – has a greater height in the design of this stove. The symmetrical arrangement is also characteristic of its side openings, which serve to remove gas through the side chambers of the furnace walls located on the sides of the structure. Once there, the gas descends through the chambers, the connection of which is ensured by a special channel located under the firebox.

Gases enter the risers from each side chamber through the lower flaps. Then they rise into the side chambers located at the top. All together they form the top cap, which contains three U-shaped cavities.

The cavities are located parallel to each other. Having got up, the gas will be retained in the middle and rear cavities of the cap, and after cooling it will move to the front plane along the lower part. WITH chimney The front plane is connected by a push-on type. From there the gas will escape into the atmosphere.

The design of this furnace has three hoods: an upper one and 2 large chambers. If we talk about the type of fuel that can be used in the construction of this structure, we note that it can be anything. To lay out the walls of the firebox during the construction of the furnace, refractory bricks should be used.

Stove in the house - good help in creating a comfortable microclimate with minimal costs. She can act as the main heating system for a home or used as an additional heat source. The construction of this structure does not have to be entrusted to a specialist. You can build a stove in your home yourself if you study all the nuances of building a stove. High-quality execution work will allow you to get a stove that will give off heat well and will last for decades.

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For a long time, stoves for heating a home have been traditional heating structures and not only boilers, but also various other heaters cannot be compared with them in many respects. They provide “living” heat; in addition, they are distinguished by practicality and unpretentiousness in the use of solid fuel. In addition, a self-built stove will last for many years.

Stoves for heating a private home are considered perfect choice for suburban real estate. A high-quality heating structure can provide residents with a comfortable stay in each of the building’s rooms. Read also: "".

DIY stove: how to do it right

At a time when stoves were the main method of heating in houses, their construction and repair were carried out by craftsmen - stove makers. Nowadays, if they have certain skills, home craftsmen have the opportunity to build a stove with their own hands. In the absence of experience in construction work, it is advisable to entrust the arrangement of such a heating structure to professionals. We should not forget that the stove is a high-risk object.

Before you start self-construction heating units made of brick, it is necessary to understand their main types and operating features:

• heating stoves - they are intended exclusively for heating the house. Their masonrycarried out quickly, since their design is simple (more details: " ");
• Heating and cooking stoves - today they are considered the most popular and in demand. In addition to heating rooms, you can also cook food on them, saving good money on gas and other modern coolants (read: " ");
• for cooking, a special stove is built into the heating structure, and, if desired, even an oven;
• stoves-fireplaces - thanks to the installation of such units, you can save space in the house, thereby creating more comfortable conditions residence and ensure efficient heating of rooms (read: ""). It takes a little time to light them. Fireplace stoves have a presentable appearance, capable of decorating any room, like a small one country house, and in a luxurious country villa (read also: "").

Do-it-yourself home stoves are distinguished by shape. For country houses, rectangular, square or round designs are most often chosen, and such a variety of models allows you to choose optimal option, based on the purpose and interior of a particular room.

In addition, regardless of the type, type and size of fuel used, the stove must meet certain requirements fire safety. The base for a brick heating structure must certainly be concrete. Read also: "".

Location of heating stoves

At independent arrangement stove heating it is necessary to provide the most optimal location for installing the heating unit. If, for example, you place the structure in the middle of the room, then its heat transfer will be the highest possible, since it will heat the space from all sides, while evenly releasing heat to the air.

In the case when the stove is placed near the wall, convection currents of cool air emanating from doors and windows will begin to actively move around the house. As a result, with this arrangement of the heating structure, residents will constantly feel the cold “stretching” up their legs.

Before laying begins furnace device It is required, according to the installation rules, to provide for the location of the combustion chamber door (read: ""). This is necessary so that you don’t have to carry armfuls of firewood across the room, spreading dirt and soot. You can avoid such problems if you install the stove in the kitchen or in a space that is rarely visited.

Types of base for heating structures

The drawings of heating stoves provide for the arrangement concrete floor or having your own foundation. In the latter case, the base is made in such a way that it is designed to accommodate the installation of the structure body and the walls of the chimney pipe, as shown.

Main components:

1. Firebox. When you create a stove in your home with your own hands, this element is one of the main parts of the heating unit. It should accommodate the maximum volume of firewood or other fuel to ensure best performance designs. The size of the firebox can be different, since this parameter depends on the type of solid fuel (for example, for firewood, the height of the chamber ranges from 40 to 100 centimeters), volume, and productivity. The firebox is laid out exclusively from refractory bricks, and the thickness of its walls should be at least half a brick.
2. Ash pan. This chamber is equipped with a door and is located directly under the grate. It is designed to collect ash and supply air to the fuel. The height of the ash pit is equal to three bricks.
3. Chimney. One of the main elements that are found in every modern brick oven. Outwardly, it is similar to a coil through which flue gases move, heating the air in the room. When creating a stove for heating a house, such as in the photo, when designing a chimney for a modern heating structure, experts do not recommend including big number turns and bends, since they create additional resistance to the movement of flue gases, resulting in a decrease in the efficiency of heating the room.

Preparation of the solution

The stove can serve without failure for a long time if the mortar for masonry is properly prepared. It is made from sand, clay and water. It must be at the same time viscous, strong and durable. Preparing a clay-sand solution is simple: it requires clay, which is filled with water and soaked for at least a day. Then the mixture is passed through a sieve and stirred to the consistency of “clay milk” and only then added required amount sand (read also: " ").

A do-it-yourself stove will be a durable and reliable structure that will last for decades if the solution is made correctly. In the event that the building materials are of poor quality, and the bricklaying was carried out without following technology, the heating unit will quickly fail and may even collapse.

Features of the furnace laying process

Before making a stove with your own hands, you should make a foundation for it in advance. Typically, bricklaying begins a month after the foundation is created. Withstand certain time it is necessary for the stove to be efficient and of high quality, and for the heating structure to last a long time, without overhaul and rework while maintaining functionality and high performance.

The work of laying a brick kiln is carried out in several stages:

1. First of all, lay out the ash chamber and the bottom of the first cap with a cover. Typically, a clay-sand mixture, which has high viscosity and strength, is used for masonry.
2. The doors are mounted in brickwork, and they are fastened using galvanized wire.
3. A grate is installed above the ash pit. Then they begin to install the firebox, which is lined from the inside with fireclay bricks, placing it on the edge. When making the solution, sand and fireclay clay. The fire door is secured with wire and a steel plate having a thickness of 2.5 millimeters. Read also: "".
4. On the 12th row of brickwork, you should block the combustion chamber and then, using a level, install a cast-iron stove with burners. On the left side of the structure, the first cap and channel are laid, intended for summer movement.
5. After the installation of the slabs is completed, the walls of the cooking chamber are laid out. On the left side, the construction of the lower cap continues.
6. In the cooking chamber, in the inner row, a summer valve is installed, which is necessary for lighting the stoves.
7. In the 20th row, the first of the hoods and the cooking chamber are blocked. In continuous brickwork It is necessary to leave holes for the vent of the cooking compartment, the summer passage and the lifting channel. To do this, the bricks are supported on steel corners in order to strengthen the heating structure and thereby increase its reliability.
8. The portal at the cooking chamber should be closed with hinged fireplace doors. Good decision The doors will be equipped with inserts made of heat-resistant glass. If they are available, it becomes possible to control the combustion process and at the same time observe how the flames look. Read also: "".
9. After covering the cooking chamber and the lower hood using two brick rows, they begin to lay out the upper hood. Cleaning doors are installed in convenient places for use to help remove soot.
10. The walls of the hood are erected almost to the top point of the wall opening. At the top the oven is covered with two brick rows. For additional thermal insulation, the hole between the top of the unit and the overhanging lintel must be filled with mineral wool.
11. If you are making a stove yourself, place a decorative belt along its upper perimeter and begin installing a pipe that removes flue gases. The ideal solution counts brick chimney, since over time metal and asbestos pipes often burn out. Read also: "".

An original DIY stove is shown in the video:

There are a large number of different stoves that can be used both for heating and for heating the house and cooking. Some are quite voluminous and massive, others are compact, and for a particular room the desired option is selected that will be most effective for a given area. In addition, any of the furnaces must be installed with mandatory consideration of the requirements developed by specialists in accordance with SNiP 41-01-2003.

In the modern information space, brick ovens for the home, drawings with instructions can always be found on the Internet. However, it must be remembered that building this structure yourself is quite difficult, since each stove maker has his own achievements and professional secrets, which are acquired only with work experience.

Criteria for choosing a brick kiln

If you nevertheless decide to carry out such work yourself, then you need to decide on the model - with knowledge of the matter, paying attention not only to the appearance and design of the stove, but also to its heating capabilities in relation to the room that it will have to heat.

When choosing a stove by size, you need to take into account that its side walls give off more heat than the front and back. This factor must be taken into account when planning to install the stove in a particular location.

Furnaces are divided not only by functionality, but also by their form. They can be rectangular, T-shaped, with a protrusion in the form of a couch or stove, and others.

Stoves can only be used for heating living rooms and be installed, for example, between the living room and the bedroom, perform several functions and serve as a dividing wall between the living quarters and the kitchen.

For rooms with a small area, you should not choose too massive buildings. Although many of them are multifunctional, they will take up too much useful space that could be used for other needs.

Naturally, the location of the heated room in the house, as well as the degree of insulation of the entire building, also plays a big role.

Table for choosing a stove depending on the area to be heated and the location of the rooms:

Room area, m²	Furnace surface, m²
	Not a corner room, inside the house	Room with one outside corner	Room with two external corners	Hallway
8	1.25	1.95	2.1	3.4
10	1.5	2.4	2.6	4.5
15	2.3	3.4	3.9	6
20	3.2	4.2	4.6	-
25	4.6	6.9	7.8	-

All these criteria must be determined in advance, and, based on them, a choice should be made in favor of one or another model.

Types of brick stoves

As mentioned above, the design of stoves can be different - both very difficult to construct and quite simple. The most famous models are “Dutch”, “Swedish”, “Russian”. Modifications named after their designers are widely popular. Thus, stoves made by Bykov, Podgorodnikov, Kuznetsov and other masters are very common.

• Exist heating stoves, which do not have a hob and other elements, but consist only of walls in which smoke exhaust channels, fireboxes, blower and cleaning chambers pass.

• Heating and cooking stoves have in their design a stove for cooking, sometimes an oven, a water heating tank and a drying chamber.

• Another type of heating structure is a fireplace stove, which has two fireboxes in its design - a fireplace and a stove. This model can be used by heating only one of the fireboxes or both at the same time.

• There are also stoves that include the entire complex necessary for human life both in summer and in winter period. They are often equipped with a heated couch, which can serve as the basis for a bed.

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Prices for finished heating stoves

heating stoves

Choosing a place to install the stove

It is important to provide right place furnace installations. The optimal place is the crossroads of the walls of the house. If he doesn't have large area, then such a stove can heat all rooms at the same time. It is advisable that the structure be located close to the entrance to the building, since the heat emanating from it will create a barrier to the cold air coming from front door. In addition, if the firebox door opens into the hallway, then it is easier to deliver fuel to it without carrying it through the entire house.

When choosing a location, you need to take into account several more factors that have important for operating the furnace:

• The building must be installed in such a way that there is free access to any of its walls - this must be taken into account for unimpeded monitoring of the integrity of the walls and for cleaning the chambers.
• When constructing a furnace, it is necessary to provide for it separate foundation, not connected to the base of the house.
• The chimney pipe must pass between the beams of the attic floor and not bump into them when it is lifted - this is provided for when building a house, and if the stove is being erected in a finished building, then before laying the foundation for it.
• For fire safety purposes, there must be a heat-resistant flooring made of wood on the floor in front of the fire door. metal sheet or ceramic tiles.

Basic design of a brick kiln

To know how each of the furnace elements works and what it is intended for, you need to consider basic design heating structure:

• The fuel chamber is designed for loading and burning fuel. It is separated from the ash chamber by a grate and connected to internal channels through which smoke and hot gases follow through the entire furnace, redirected into the chimney pipe.
• The ash chamber provides a controlled air supply to the firebox and is a collector of ash from burnt fuel, and therefore requires periodic cleaning.
• An oven, a hob and a tank for heating water - these elements are built into heating and cooking stoves.
• Cleaning chambers are necessary because soot collects in them, which crumbles from the walls of the chimney channels passing inside the furnace. They are used to periodically clean the oven to maintain normal draft.

• The flue ducts running inside the stove may have different configurations in different models. Hot gaseous combustion products, passing through them, heat the walls of the furnace, which release heat into the room.
• The channels direct smoke and combustion products into a chimney located at the very top of the stove and then exiting to the outside of the building.

One of the most important conditions efficient work the furnace is good draft, which is achieved by high-quality masonry in compliance with the order scheme and periodic cleaning of the structure during operation. In addition, it is necessary to maintain the required height of the chimney pipe and its correct location on the roof.

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Materials for building a stove

An important issue for the long-term functioning of the stove is the choice of high-quality materials for its masonry, so you should not skimp on them. To build a building you will need:

• Red fire brick, the quantity of which is determined by the selected model. It must be remembered that this material is quite fragile, so its transportation and unloading must be carried out extremely carefully.
• Fireclay brick is used to lay the combustion chamber in direct contact with the fire. It will require from 40 to 200 pieces, but the exact quantity can be found out from the diagram of the selected model. This type of brick can withstand temperatures of 1450–1500°; it retains heat for a long time, gradually releasing it to the walls of the furnace.
• Raising the stove cannot be done without brick laying mortar, which is made on the basis of clay. Stove makers advise using the Borovichevsky mortar composition - it is quite plastic during the laying process and fireproof during operation.
• Cast iron elements are doors for the firebox, ash pan and cleaning chambers, valves and grate. If the heating and cooking stove is raised, then one or more two-burner stove, oven and water heating tank provided by the design.

• Steel wire for securing cast iron elements in masonry.
• Asbestos cord or sheet - for laying between brick and metal parts.

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Now, having become familiar with some of the nuances of building a stove, you can consider several models that should be available for laying even for beginners.

Heating stove V. Bykov

This stove is intended for heating purposes only as it does not have a stove or oven. However, despite this, it is quite popular for houses with small area, since it is compact - it takes up little space, but at the same time it is capable of heating even three rooms.

The size of the building is 510 × 1400 mm, with its height without pipe being 2150 mm. If we take the size in bricks, then it is 2 × 5½ bricks.

The stove is quite simple to install, as it does not have complex internal configurations. In appearance, it generally resembles a thick wall, which is why the designer himself called it a “thick warm wall.” The heat transfer from the entire building is 2400 kcal/h, but the side walls account for 920 kcal/h, and the front and rear parts only 280 kcal/h. Section smoke duct is 130 × 260 mm.

Due to its small width, the stove fits perfectly between two rooms, with its front part opening into a third, for example, into the hallway, and is not only a separator for two rooms, but also a source of heat for them.

The entire design of this model is divided into two sections - the upper gas exhaust and the lower combustion chamber. There are two channels in the lower part - ascending and descending. They help heat the combustion part of the furnace and equalize the temperature throughout the entire structure, preventing it from overheating.

The upper part of the furnace is made in the form of a cap, divided into five vertical, descending and ascending channels, which are ⅔ covered by bricks laid horizontally in the masonry. They create a kind of sieve that delays the release of heat directly into the pipe. The channel walls not only direct the heated air in the desired direction, but also significantly increase internal area oven surface. These factors increase the efficiency of the heating structure, which leads to greater heat transfer. It is also facilitated by a valve installed in the upper part of the building, which regulates the release of warm air into the pipe.

For this stove model you will need the following materials:

• Red fire brick - 407 pcs.
• White fireclay brick SHA-8 — 197 pcs.
• Fire door 210×250 mm - 1 pc.
• Cleaning doors 140×140 mm - 2 pcs.
• Grate 250×252 mm - 1 pc.
• Chimney damper 130×250 mm - 1 pc.
• Metal sheet for flooring in front of the firebox, size 500 × 700 mm - 1 piece; ceramic tiles can be laid instead of the sheet.

Prices for ready-made fireboxes for brick kilns

Firebox for brick kilns

Order of the Bykov furnace

The furnace is laid on a foundation prepared for it, which should have a size larger than the furnace base by 100 ÷ 120 mm in each direction. The height of the foundation should be two rows of masonry below the finished floor. Before starting masonry, it is covered with a layer of waterproofing - roofing material.

Order	Description of work
	This diagram shows two zero rows, which are located below the finished floor level. Each row will require 22 red bricks.
	Masonry located on the same level as the finished floor, as well as a metal sheet mounted in front of the firebox. The floor surface around the stove is covered with heat-resistant ceramic tiles.
	1st row - the blower chamber is formed. Hewn bricks are installed at the entrance to it, which facilitates the removal of combustion waste. To lay this row you need 21 bricks.
	Row 2 - when laying it, the blower door is installed and the chamber itself continues to form. To lay this row you will need 20 bricks.
	Row 3 - the blower chamber continues to form. The wire attached to the door lugs is embedded in the masonry seams. For a row you will need 19 whole bricks and 2 ⅓ bricks, which are laid near the installed door.
	4th row - the front part of the blower chamber is covered with bricks along with the installed door. At the rear of the structure, the base of the rotary well begins to form. This row will take 12 whole, 6 ¾ and 2 ½ bricks.
	Row 5 - the base of the fuel chamber is formed from fireclay bricks above the ash chamber. Hewn bricks are laid in the front and rear parts of the base, along which combustion waste will slide into the ash-blower chamber through a grate installed on the same row. There must be a gap of 5 mm between it and the bricks. The fuel chamber door is mounted on the same row. You will need 17 whole and two ⅓ bricks.
	Row 6 - the walls of the fuel chamber begin to form, the smoke exhaust well continues to be laid out. 11 pieces of fireclay bricks are used.
	Row 7 - the chimney well is divided in two by two bricks. The bricks above the well must be hewn. As a result of the masonry, the base of two vertical channels is formed - ascending and descending. This row uses 11 whole, 2 ½ and 4 cut obliquely across the entire width of fireclay bricks.
	The 8th row is laid according to the pattern, repeating the previous one, the only difference is the direction of the brick. It will take 15 bricks per row.
	Row 9 - the door of the fuel chamber is blocked with two bricks. This row will require 16 fireclay bricks. The back of the stove is placed according to the diagram.
	Row 10 - bricks are laid according to the pattern, observing their direction. This row requires 16 bricks.
	Row 11 - the brick on the back wall of the firebox and at the entrance to the descending channel must be hewn from above, otherwise the work is carried out according to the scheme. A row will require 12 whole, 2 ½ and 4 ¾ fireclay bricks.
	Row 12 - the descending smoke exhaust duct and the fuel chamber are being combined. For a row you need 13 whole and 2 ½ fireclay bricks.
	The 13th row is laid according to the presented diagram, and it uses 10 whole, 2 ½ and 4 ¾ fireclay bricks.
	The 14th row is also laid according to the scheme; you will need 10 whole and 6 ¾ bricks.
	Row 15 - using prepared bricks, ¾ in size, a narrowing of the fuel chamber, combined with a descending channel, is arranged. The total number of bricks used is 7 whole and 14 pieces in ¾.
	Row 16 - bricks completely block the combined downward channel and the fuel chamber. This and the next row divide the structure into two parts - the gas-air upper part and the lower fuel part. For a row, 17 whole, 4 ¾ and 2 ½ bricks are used.
	The 17th row is laid out from red brick. A hole in the ascending channel is left in it, and bricks cut diagonally are mounted along its edges. 14 whole, 6 ¾ and 2 ½ bricks are used.
	Row 18 - a horizontal furnace channel is formed; it is the basis for the installation of five channels that will run vertically. The cleaning chamber door is installed on the same row. For a row you need 8 whole, 2 - ½, 2 - ¼ and 4 ¾ bricks.
	Row 19 - the formation of the first vertical channel, the upper part of the structure, is underway. It will be a continuation of the ascending channel of the lower combustion part of the furnace. The bricks forming this channel must be cut diagonally from below. 11 whole and 4 ¾ bricks are used.
	Row 20 - the second vertical channel begins to form in the same way as the first. Half a brick is mounted between the first and second channels. This part in this row and in subsequent ones has a dual purpose - it is the basis for the next row and forms windows in the masonry for heat exchange with the walls and maintaining normal draft. A row uses 7 whole, 3 ½ and 8 ¾ bricks.
	Row 21 - the third, fourth and fifth channels are formed in it. The bricks laid at the base of the walls separating the channels are cramped from below, as in previous cases. For a row you will need 11 whole, 5 ½ and 4 ¾ bricks.
	The 22nd row is placed according to the pattern, observing the formation of channels. For a row you need 11 whole and 4 pieces of ½ and ¾ bricks, for a total of 17 pieces.
	The 23rd row is also laid according to the scheme and for it you need to prepare 12 whole, 4 in ½ and 4 in ¾ bricks.
	Row 24 - on this row the laying of the wall between the second and first vertical channels is completed. The top brick in the wall is cut diagonally from the two upper sides. For a row you will need 9 whole, 3 ½ and 8 ¾ bricks. A total of 18 bricks need to be used, some of which split in two.
	Row 25 - this is where the laying of the walls between the second and third vertical channels is completed. The top brick in the wall from above is pressed together on both sides. For masonry you will need 10 whole, 4 ¾ and 5 ½ bricks.
	Row 26 - completion of the wall laying between the third and fourth vertical channels. The top brick of the wall is also trimmed on both sides. You need to prepare 10 whole, 4 ¾ and 4 ½ bricks.
	Row 27 - the work follows the pattern, and it requires 9 whole, 4 ¾ and 4 ½ bricks.
	Row 28 - it uses bricks made ¾ of a solid brick - they form a horizontal channel for flue gases, which is called a cap. For a row, 4 whole pieces are used, 14 pieces - ¾, 4 hewn obliquely along the entire thickness.
	Row 29 - in it the channel formed in the previous row is completely blocked, with the exception of the opening left for the chimney pipe. To lay it you will need 17 whole, 4 - ¾ and 2 - ½ bricks.
	Row 30 is also laid out solid, according to the pattern, except for the opening for the chimney. It uses 6 whole and 20 ¾ bricks.
	31 rows are laid out according to the pattern and 17 whole, 4 ¾ and 2 ½ bricks are prepared for it.
	Row 32 - the first row of the chimney begins to be laid out; it will require 5 whole bricks.

Stove-fireplace "Swedish" A. Ryazankina

The Swedish type heating and cooking stove is quite popular due to its efficiency. Its design promotes rapid heating of rooms and allows you not only to heat the house, but also to cook dinner.

Appearance of the “Swedish” Ryazankin

Such a stove is usually installed between the kitchen and the living area of ​​the house, positioning it in such a way that the hob and oven are turned towards the kitchen. In some Swedish designs, a fireplace is provided on the side intended for heating the living room or bedroom. It is this option that is worth considering, since it is perfect for both spacious and small buildings, and, as you know, many owners of private houses dream of a fireplace in one of the living rooms.

This stove model is heated with wood, has dimensions of 1020 × 890 mm around the perimeter and 2170 mm in height excluding the pipe. In this case, it is also necessary to provide that the fireplace portal will protrude beyond the building by 130 mm. The foundation must be more sizes the base of the furnace and be 1040 × 1020. The power of the Shvedka reaches 3000 kcal/hour.

To build this stove model, you will need the following materials:

• Red brick, excluding pipe laying - 714 pcs.
• Blower door 140×140 mm - 1 pc.
• Door for combustion chamber 210×250 mm - 1 pc.
• Door for cleaning chambers 140×140 mm - 8 pcs.
• Oven 450×360×300 mm – 1 pc.
• Two-burner cast iron stove 410×710 mm - 1 pc.
• Grate 200×300 mm – 1 pc.
• Chimney damper 130×250 mm - 3 pcs.
• Steel corner 50×50×5×1020 mm – 2 pcs.
• Steel strip 50×5×920 mm – 3 pcs.
• Steel strip 50×5×530 mm – 2 pcs.
• Steel strip 50×5×480 mm – 2 pcs.
• A fireplace grate can be made independently from reinforcing bars.
• Metal sheet for flooring in front of the firebox 500×700 mm - 1 pc.
• Asbestos sheet or cord for laying between metal elements and masonry bricks.

Furnace laying

The presented diagrams show in detail the location of all cast iron elements of the fireplace stove, and a description of the masonry will help to avoid mistakes at some rather complex stages of work.

Experienced master masons recommend laying the entire stove first dry, that is, without mortar, adhering to the diagram and understanding the configuration of each of the rows. This process is especially important for beginners who are barely familiar with the work of a stove maker.

Another trick experienced craftsmen is the preliminary adjustment and laying of each of the rows without mortar during the work process. Any row is first laid out, and, if necessary, individual bricks are cut or trimmed, and then they are laid on the mortar.

This approach will slow down the work somewhat, but will allow it to be completed much better, without errors that could negatively affect the creation of normal traction.

When carrying out masonry, you need to keep at hand not only a diagram of each of the rows, but also a sectional drawing of the stove. It will also help - it will allow you to imagine all the channels passing inside and the design of the fireboxes.

So, the laying is done as follows:

Order - from 1st to 6th row

• The first, continuous row of the stove is laid on onlaid to ready roofing felt foundation. It is very important to lay out the row perfectly evenly and correctly, since the quality of the masonry of the entire structure will depend on it. Therefore, first you should mark the roofing material sheet using a ruler, square and chalk, drawing on it the shape of the stove base, observing the dimensions. Then, based on the diagram and observing the configuration of the brick laying, the first row is assembled dry, and then the laying is done with mortar.
• 2nd row. It contains metal elements consisting of pieces of reinforcement, onto which the fireplace grate will later be fixed by welding, or this decorative element vm is completely leveled. The rest of the masonry is carried out according to the scheme.
• 3rd row. At this stage, the doors of the first cleaning and blowing chamber are installed, pre-wrapped with asbestos rope or lined with pieces of asbestos. To fix the doors in place, wire is used, which is threaded into special loops-ears of the cast-iron frame. Next, the wire is placed in the seams of the masonry, where it is secured with mortar and pressed against the top row of bricks. Temporarily, until final fastening, the doors are supported on both sides with bricks.

• 4 row. The work proceeds according to the scheme, but the row is notable for the fact that the doors on both sides are fixed with masonry, which must be placed perfectly evenly. The seams in this area can be two to three millimeters wider due to the wire embedded in them.
• It is recommended to lay out the 5th row using fireclay fire-resistant bricks, just like all the walls of the combustion chamber. On the same row, a grate and an oven box are mounted, which is wrapped or lined with asbestos to prevent premature burnout.

• 6th row. On this row it is installed combustion door, wrapped in asbestos cord, and with pieces of wire fixed in it.

• 7th row. The masonry is carried out according to the scheme; a steel strip is mounted above the laid out walls of the fireplace, which will serve as a support for the next row of masonry. It is laid flat or in the form of a semi-arch, giving it the desired shape in advance.
• Rows 8 and 9 are laid out according to the diagram presented.
• 10 row. The front wall of the stove is strengthened, since a cast iron hob will be installed later in this part of the building. A steel corner is secured to the wall using two wire hooks, then pieces of asbestos sheet are laid in place of the slab installation, and the slab itself is installed. The door of another cleaning chamber is fixed in the same row.
• Rows 11 and 12 are laid out according to the pattern without installing metal elements. On the twelfth row, the cleaning chamber door is closed.

Order - from 13 to 24 row

• From 13 to 15 rows are laid according to the developed pattern, strictly adhering to the brick laying configuration.
• 16th row. The construction of the walls of the chamber located above is completed. hob, which is covered with metal strips. They will serve as the basis for laying bricks in the next row.
• Rows 17 and 18 are laid according to the pattern.
• Row 19 At this stage, two more cleaning chambers are installed, which are secured in the same way as the previous ones.
• Rows 20 and 21 are placed according to the pattern.
• 22 row. Two more cleaning chamber doors are being installed.
• 23 row. The masonry proceeds according to the scheme.
• 24 row. The chimney valve is being installed, the frame of which is installed on the solution.

• 25 row. Next to the first, on the adjacent chimney channel, a second chimney valve is mounted.
• 26 row. The cleaning chamber door is being installed.
• From 27 to 30 rows are laid out according to the pattern.
• 31 row. At this stage, the third and final chimney valve is installed.
• 32-33 rows. In this area of ​​the structure there is a transition to laying out a pipe that rises to the ceiling.

When passing the pipe through attic floor, it is necessary to isolate flammable materials of construction from it. To do this, a metal box with sides with a height greater than the thickness of the ceiling by 100 ÷ 120 mm is installed around the chimney. This “difference” remains in the attic.

If the walls of the furnace are not covered with decorative material, then when laying bricks, the still wet mortar in the seams is embroidered special tool, that is, it is given a neat convex or concave shape.

The Swedish stove can be supplemented with a warm stove bench. This interesting project shown on video.

Video: brick “Swedish” with a bed

And at the end of the article - one more good advice. Before you decide to self-construction ovens, without having sufficient experience in this work, it is recommended that you first practice the usual laying of bricks with mortar. Believe me, this process is not as simple as it seems at first glance.

Evgeniy AfanasyevChief Editor

Author of the publication 27.08.2015