Why do you need a running lights controller? How to connect running lights yourself, connection diagram. Connecting the daytime running lights unit
Greetings fellow citizens of Datagoria!
I want to tell you the story of how I created DRL controllers (daytime running light controllers for a car). The traffic police, as always, at the request of the workers, imposed on us the use of DRLs in cars, and we, law-abiding people, began to happily follow the instructions. The first problems were not long in coming - we forget to turn off the DRLs and have discharged batteries, being late for work and kind words and thoughts about our dear traffic police
So it's time to tackle the DRL controller!
Gentlemen and ladies, car drivers, fellow citizens!
We have new whale with modifications and on the factory printed circuit board:
Come on!
I made the first DRL controller using a relay
My minivan had very funny fog lights, they are plastic, white and use a marker bulb! There was no use for them - for rework! The marker lamps were replaced with LED analogues, this made it possible to neglect the current consumption. Next, the standard switching circuit was changed, since the accessibility of the wires in my minibus is excellent. In an hour with a smoke break, the circuit was assembled and connected:
The parking signal was taken directly from the button illumination. Result: correct work DRL, turning off when the lights are turned on and the inability to forget to turn off the DRL. This scheme has been working for several years without complaints from both mine and traffic police inspectors.
But now, I bought a second car for my family. Large, comfortable and... terribly inconvenient in terms of laying new wiring. As I already said, in essence I’m a lazy person, I’m too lazy to disassemble the dashboard, drag wires into the dense corrugation, and then put it all back together!
No, please! We need another solution!
I decided to build a controller for a friend, but... the design should have been almost free (thank you, I won’t forget!), the microcontroller is fat! And why, because there is a simpler solution - a comparator!
The entire circuit was attached directly to the battery cable using plastic clamp. The downside of the circuit is the lack of a DRL extinguishing function when the headlights are turned on (I was too lazy to introduce it).
And then it began... An acquaintance showed off the device to his friend. I received several more offers to make controllers. What did car enthusiasts like? Easy installation and no need to drag wires into the cabin, everything is located in the engine compartment!
As a result, the design was simplified by another 2 resistors, which had a beneficial effect on my lazy ego. Instead of adjusting the reference voltage, I introduced a direct adjustment of the measured voltage:
Fragment excluded. Our magazine exists on donations from readers. The full version of this article is available only
Settings Both options come down to setting the circuit’s response threshold with the trimmer when the generator is operating, i.e. when the voltage in the on-board network is above 13.5 V
Decor The design has not changed, everything is assembled very quickly, the work is reliable even in our Yakut frosts.
I assembled this version of the device, like the previous ones, on my knee in 10 minutes. I used a Chinese development board, finished design Filled it with hot glue and ennobled it with heat shrink.
--
Thank you for your attention!
Igor Kotov, editor-in-chief of Datagor magazine
Good luck and take care of your batteries!
AliExpress.com Product - LED COB Car Auto DRL Driving Daytime Running Lamp Fog Light Z-Shape free shipping 2pcs/lot
Many car enthusiasts have already heard about the benefits of DRLs and are starting to look for a decent model in stores. The assortment is widely represented by Chinese junk costing from 300 to 5000 rubles. Some don’t even understand why they should be installed on a car and buy junk for 500 rubles, which shines a little brighter than its dimensions, with a power of 2 watts. You've probably seen these, they still glow blue, and some of the LEDs don't light up or blink. Then they have the problem of how to wire up the running lights to make them last longer. Garage craftsmen offer various schemes connecting DRLs, the most difficult thing is to choose the right one.
Common names that will be used in the text: DRL “Daytime Running Lights”, daytime running lights.
- 1. Types of connection
- 2. Operating mode
- 3. How to connect DRL with control unit
- 4. DRL controller
- 5. Select a stabilizer
- 6. Connection via relay
- 7. Other less popular methods
- 8. Installation check
- 9. Example of benefit
Types of connection
DRL Eagle eye, eagle eye
The connection diagram for running lights depends on the configuration and your budget. There are 3 types of configuration:
- the most inexpensive, only DRL;
- average in price, stabilizer included;
- expensive, with a control controller.
If you have the cheapest and worst ones, then the kit does not include a controller or control unit. Such a unit performs the function of a voltage stabilizer and on/off control.
The average configuration includes a 12V voltage stabilizer. There are voltage surges in the car network, and LEDs really don’t like this and fail. The stabilizer will significantly extend the life of the LEDs. But in this option, you will have to choose a place for connection so that they turn on only when the engine is running. There are many places for this, for example an oil pressure sensor or a generator.
Domestic model
The expensive version is equipped with a control unit that connects directly to battery in the car. According to the principle of operation, they are of two types:
- determine the difference between the number of volts when the engine is off and on;
- cheaper, it turns on when the voltage rises above 13V.
The best option is the first one, regardless of the voltage on your battery, always turn it on and off correctly. The second option is budgetary and does not always work. With the engine off, the number of volts must drop below 13V for the controller to turn off the DRL. However, if your battery is new or well charged, then even after stopping the engine, it will have a voltage above 13V for up to several hours. That is, the daytime running lights will not turn off on their own until there is less than 13V. The only drawback will be its own power consumption when the controller is waiting for the engine to start. It will discharge the battery along with burglar alarm.
Operating mode
By technical regulations for cars, DRL should automatically turn on when the engine starts. When you turn on the low beams, they should turn off automatically so as not to dazzle. dark time days.
There are also combined models with installed turn signals on sale. The turn signal duplication section is connected separately in parallel to the standard turn signals. Having a stable diet is also a must.
DRL with turn signal
For models with additional control There is a follow-up backlight function that works for 10 minutes after the engine is turned off. It illuminates your path to your home or dugout, depending on where you live. Osram DRL has a mode in which they do not turn off, but dim by 50%. I just don’t know how legal it is and whether it will cause blindness.
How to connect DRL with control unit
DRL controller
I prefer the DRL connection scheme using the control unit, the most reliable way, suitable for any car and does not require any knowledge. Many car enthusiasts buy a DRL control unit from AliExpress - it is inexpensive, and the reviews seem to be good. However, most reviews are left either upon receipt of the product or after several days of use. In fact, absolutely all DRL controllers from AliExpress are short-lived and have the following disadvantages:
- the operating principle does not comply with GOST;
- there is no stabilization (for the majority);
- low quality materials and assembly;
- the features of the vehicle’s on-board network are not taken into account;
- no guarantee;
- some do not have moisture protection.
From quality options I can highlight the DayLight+ DRL control unit from Russian manufacturer, which fully complies with GOST and differs good quality. The DayLight+ controller also has built-in stabilization, which will significantly increase the life of the running lights.
Choosing a stabilizer
In this form, the first and second methods will be combined. Even if your daytime running lights do not have a stabilizer, I recommend purchasing one or making it yourself.
You can buy Chinese modules at prices from 50 to 120 rubles, in order not to order on Aliexpress, take a look at Avito, there are very reasonable prices. The most common modules are pulse LM2596 and linear LM317. They are of course outdated, but they will draw a current of 1 ampere, which will be a power of 12 watts.
The XL6009, XL4015 chips are considered modern for 2016. They have higher efficiency and heat up much less. They can withstand a current of 2 Amps without a chip cooling system, this is equivalent to a load of 24 watts.
Connection via relay
On forums and websites you will find different ways How to connect daytime running lights with your own hands, it will be different for each brand. Specialized relays are also sold, for example Forget-me-not, designed for any car.
The operating principle is simple. Power to the daytime running lights is supplied from the ignition switch wire. The positive wire from the far and near breaks the circuit when voltage appears on it. A 5-pin relay is sufficient for this. First, look for a solution on forums that specialize only in the make of your car. Perhaps you will find a simpler solution.
For example, in Duster you can connect the DRL to the cigarette lighter; voltage is supplied to it only when the ignition is turned on. This is better than looking for the ignition wire in the wiring. In any case, I recommend installing a fuse in case of a short circuit.
Many circuits use a gauge wire to disable the DRL. This is incorrect DRL should not go out when the headlights are turned on, only when low beam is on.
Another type of connection diagram for daytime running lights is the installation of a relay in the standard relay block of a car without any upgrades. It includes 30% or 50% distant, which will be enough to identify vehicles on the road. If the distant one consumes 120W, then 30% equals approximately 36W, 50% equals 60W.
Other less popular methods
Many people are interested in how to connect DRLs without a relay on their own, but it depends on the electrical system of your car; look for a solution in online clubs dedicated to your car. The most important thing is that power is supplied to this place after the engine starts.
The basic diagram for connecting the DRLs is through a 4 or 5 contact relay, which turns off when the low one is turned on. Those who are not too lazy to rummage through the car’s wiring can connect it from the oil pressure sensor or generator. On any vehicle, when the engine starts, the oil pressure light on the dashboard lights up, the signal from this wire is used to supply power. The second way to connect running lights yourself is to connect to a generator. They will turn on automatically when voltage appears on the generator.
Verifying the installation
Most car owners, after connecting the running lights with their own hands, like to take a photo of their junk. To make it less dim, they do this at night from close range. Due to their illiteracy, they do not know that they need to check in sunny weather from a distance of 100 meters. That's why they are called daytime and not nighttime.
Example of benefit
When traveling short distances in winter, especially in severe frost, a large number of Battery energy is wasted to start the engine. Over time, the battery loses its capacity and holds its charge worse. Using DRLs instead of low beams will allow you to charge the battery faster while driving.
Let's do the math:
- low beam consumes about 100W, 2 lamps approximately 50W each;
- decent DRLs up to 15W;
- 100W – 15W = 85W less energy will be consumed.
For example, in my Duster there is a standard heating element that heats the interior until the engine warms up. Accordingly, the car will warm up faster.
Today we will make a regulator for the daytime running lights of a car without using complex microcircuits. Despite the fact that it is normal and individual work modern electronic devices impossible without any auxiliary devices, scientists have proven in practice that such a phenomenon is still possible.
In electronics, a controller is a special control equipment. In the same industry, a microcontroller is a small component of a controller, the basis of which is an integrated circuit.
If the car is not equipped with factory daytime running lights, and the main headlights are used instead of unintended sources daylight- this is an unaffordable luxury for a car owner, then during the daytime according to the rules traffic In Russia, fog lights can be used to highlight a car.
It only makes sense to use fog lights instead of main headlights in a situation where their lamps have a power less than that of the lamps in standard car headlights. The legislator does not yet oblige every car owner to install special daytime running lights on vehicles, however, by next 2016, for every vehicle Daytime running lights will need to be installed.
Thus, the installation of daytime running lights on vehicles will be a prerequisite.
In order to correctly and safely install such equipment on a car, you will have to resort to work professional master from a car repair shop, or do all the work yourself.
From what design features has a car, and where the mounted equipment was manufactured (at the factory, or on its own) directly depends on the complexity of the work. For those who are installing daytime running lights on a car themselves, you need to know that such work is carried out in strict accordance with all regulations of the Russian Federation, namely clause 1.3.29 appendix. No. 5 to those. safety regulations for wheeled vehicles.
Relay base for daytime running lights controller
The bulk road transport equipped with factory fog lights, but some drivers do not use them at all due to the fact that such lights are simply not needed, consume a lot of energy, or do not work well. Such headlights should be converted into running lights. To do this, standard light bulbs will need to be replaced with LED ones. This circumstance will save electrical energy, and when calculating the electrical mnemonic diagram it will be possible not to take into account the current consumed.
Then you will need to make adjustments to the standard switching diagram. To do this, most likely, you will need to remove the bumper and instrument panel. According to the masters, such work takes a little more than one hour. As soon as access to the on-board electrical wiring is allowed, switching is performed according to the scheme:
It is extremely important that all running lights work properly: when the key is turned in the ignition switch to start the engine, as well as when the high or low beam headlights, side lights, or main headlights are turned on, the running lights should turn off. In order to remember to turn off the daytime running lights, the dimensions must be interconnected with the backlight. This convenient connection was appreciated by most drivers.
What to do in a situation where you can’t get to the wiring in the car at all, or it’s very difficult to do so? Without any exaggeration, many car enthusiasts will not be able to handle such work!
There is a solution - Atmega8.
Description of the Atmega8 device
Lighting equipment for daytime running lights and a control module can be purchased separately for a reasonable price. If the car bumper already has holes for installing fog lights, then you can fix the new device in them, but if there are no such holes, then they need to be carefully cut out. The lamps are attached to 4 self-tapping screws. Next we switch to working with the controller. We use a proven eight-bit microcontroller from Atmel - Atmega8.
With the help of this equipment, you can use a number of auxiliary options, such as indexing the operation of the PVZ, which is turned off while the engine is running. The device operates according to a simple scheme: when the engine is not running, the voltage to the battery is less than 13.5V, and when the engine is running, the voltage is more than 13.5V and the battery is charging.
The running lights turn on automatically if you connect 2 wires to the battery and 2 wires to the DRLs. If properly installed, this medium-cost equipment will beautifully complement the overall exterior of the machine.
The DRL control controller can be assembled on a comparator basis.
The comparator here is made on the basis of a 2-channel operational amplifier (LM358). This circuit is not expensive and does not require the installation of a voltage stabilizer. The device is aimed at saving voltage (3-30 V).
A simple controller for DRLs. High beam lamps are used at 30% switched on. Brightness adjustment is carried out using PWM, and the function of smooth switching on of lamps is also implemented.
Version 1
Schematic diagram:
To power the microcontroller, a linear stabilizer L7805 was used (not shown in the diagram).
When the engine starts, the generator and oil sensor lamps go out, you can also turn on the handbrake and if the low/high beams are turned off, the DRL turns on (high beam by 30%, brightness can be changed in the source code). When you turn on the light, the DRLs turn off, to turn the DRLs back on you need to turn off the light, and then turn it on and off again. The circuit is assembled in Proteus, so you can try it.
Printed circuit boards:
Fee for one field effect transistor at parallel connection lamps:
When connecting lamps in parallel, I advise you to use a more powerful transistor with lower resistance open channel, or combine several, otherwise the infection will spread.
Board for two transistors - independent control of lamps:
This board is useful if you want to create some kind of strobe effect, or simply have the ability to connect to each lamp separately.
Download the Proteus project, printed circuit boards and source: (downloads: 412)
Version 2
Schematic diagram:
The second version differs from the first only by the addition of an LED, which serves as an indicator that the lamps are turned on. A new printed circuit board was also installed with three field switches connected in parallel to control more powerful lamps.
Printed circuit board:
Assembled:
Download the Proteus project, printed circuit boards and source code for the second version: (downloads: 369)
Version 3
Schematic diagram:
To increase the response speed of the field switches, a driver based on transistors BC547 and BC557 (you can use KT315 and KT361) was added to the circuit, therefore the heating was reduced and the PWM frequency can be increased.
According to current laws Russian Federation In particular, according to the amendments made to the traffic rules, any vehicle driving even during the day must have low-beam headlights on. In addition, it is permissible to use anti-fog analogues, as well as daytime running lights, instead.
Due to the fact that using head and fog lights for this purpose is associated with a number of disadvantages, the vast majority of car owners prefer to purchase running light modules and install them themselves. In view of this, it’s worth figuring out how to connect daytime running lights with your own hands?
Features of operation
The legislation quite clearly regulates the rules for the use of such elements in the design of a car. According to GOST requirements, the running lights should turn on immediately when you turn the ignition key, and automatic shutdown should occur if the driver has activated the headlights.
In addition, such a standard stipulates that the head lights should be turned on only after the side lights have been fully turned on. The only exception is when they are used to give signals. This must be taken into account if you want to install daytime running lights yourself.
Do-it-yourself DRL connection, It has whole line features that must be taken into account to achieve correct sequence work and long term module services. To increase its service life, it is wise to use a special stabilizing unit designed for LED lights.
However, this measure is aimed only at increasing the operating time of the circuit; without such a block, all elements will function normally.
One of the most common problems m, characteristic of DRL modules, voltage surges appear, which causes overheating of the crystal responsible for the radiation. In this regard, the brightness of the lights gradually decreases, after which they cease to perform their main function.
Connection options
When considering the most common options for connecting DRLs, it is advisable to disassemble the simplest scheme connecting running lights without using a stabilizer, generator, etc. additional elements. To ensure that the DRLs are activated when the engine is turned on, it is recommended:
- Connect the positive wire to the positive terminal located on the ignition switch;
- The negative cord is attached to the car body in any place convenient for the owner;
- When you turn the ignition, the DRL will work.
The main disadvantage of such a connection scheme is that the lights operate constantly when the ignition is turned on. Besides, work lights in in this case , is not coordinated with other car lighting systems, which means that such a connection does not meet the requirements specified in GOST.
The second connection option is much more suitable for this purpose, since it uses the side headlight circuit. The positive wire of the daytime running lights, in this case, is connected directly to the battery. Negative connect with positive side lights, after which the LEDs begin to glow. At the same time, the lamp spiral does not light, which is due to low consumption current.
After activating the side lights, the driver will be able to notice that the DRL potentials are equalized, which leads to the LEDs turning off. As a result, the vehicle's light circuit returns to normal operation. Despite the fact that this scheme works without serious violations, it has a number of disadvantages, which is why it should not be installed.
It is advisable to include:
Since this scheme also does not meet the requirements of the state standard, it will be necessary to consider the simplest option that meets existing standards.
DRL controller
For the vast majority of owners, it seems most acceptable to use a special control unit that allows you to connect the HDO via correct scheme, without the use of relays and other elements. As a result, the connection diagram is simple and safe , due to unique advantages operation of the controller.
These include:
- Stable inclusion of DRLs after starting the engine;
- Guarantees overload protection;
- Supports any type of lights, including LED;
- Does not affect the operation of other nodes.
Daytime control units running lights, in the vast majority of cases, fully comply state standard, which allows you to safely use them for their intended purpose. However, some manufacturers may implement such equipment various functions, which, despite their usefulness, may not meet the requirements of GOST, which means their use is not recommended.
Another advantage of this kind equipment, it is possible to connect it according to a diagram previously provided by the manufacturer. At the same time, it necessarily contains information about maximum load, as well as other important technical specifications. This allows you to quickly and easily connect DRLs without any experience or special knowledge.
If you do not plan to purchase a special controller, it is advisable to give preference to the connection option via a relay. It involves the use of a 5-pin relay, which will be used in general scheme DRL connections. Such a scheme allows eliminate any shortcomings inherent previous versions and gives an opportunity safe use DRL without any additional equipment.
Features of connecting the DRL relay:
- 30 to “+” outputs of LED modules;
- 85 on the “+” cord dimensions;
- 86 are assigned to the machine body;
- 87a to “+” ignition;
- 87 are isolated.
To implement such a connection via a relay, you need to acquire connection wires, terminals, cable ties, heat pipes and tools. Among other things, you should consider a method of secure fastening assembled circuit in the design of the car.
Some owners prefer use a generator in the connection diagram, which is not recommended in most cases. After all, in order to install DRLs through the generator, you will need to install a resistor. Despite the efficiency of the circuit, its reliability leaves much to be desired.