How to feed currants after picking berries. Autumn feeding of currants: how and with what to fertilize the bushes after harvesting. Application of mineral fertilizers

If you want to get tasty large currant berries, then you need to take care of the currant bush. If this is not done, then the berries will become small and tasteless over time, and the yield of the bush will fall. This can happen to anyone, even the best varietal currant bush. Currants require attention, although they are not a capricious plant. Red, black, golden…. For any, currants need care after harvesting. Exactly proper care behind a currant bush after fruiting, it gives strength to the growth of new shoots and the root system.

A number of well-executed measures to compassionate care for currants, pamper high yield berries rich in vitamin C. About simple ones, necessary stages caring for currants is something any amateur gardener should know. Here are 6 steps to take after harvesting currants that will help you get a great currant harvest.

1. Pruning currants after harvesting

3. Pests

A sign of glassworm infection is visible at the stage of fruit ripening, dry leaves and branches appear. After harvesting, the affected branches are removed and burned, and the bush is treated with Karbofos, Fitoferm or Lepidocide. These drugs will help save the bush even when attacked by ticks and gall midges.

4. Watering

In late autumn, currants actively store moisture for the winter. You should water the berry bushes at the rate of 5 buckets per bush, and have time to do this before frost.

To properly care for currants and get a great harvest of berries, you need to water them 3 times a season:

1. at the end of May - beginning of June, when active growth and the appearance of ovaries on plants is observed;
2. at the end of June, when the berries begin to ripen on the bushes;
3. , since at this time flower buds are laid for next year's harvest.

5. How to feed currants after harvesting

After harvesting, currants must be fed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers at the rate of 40-50 g of superphosphate and 20-30 g of potassium chloride per 1 sq.m.

In autumn, currants give strength to new buds and young shoots, and at this stage, gummed fertilizing is suitable. Feeding time, early October, after digging up the soil around the bush. The feeding scheme is as follows:

• Carefully remove fallen leaves and weeds around the bush;
• disinfect the soil with solutions of potassium permanganate or copper sulfate; apply fertilizers (phosphorus-potassium).

Bushes that received required amount nutrients, will cope with the winter cold, and in the summer will delight you with productivity.

6. Warming currant bushes for the winter.

In winter, many berry bushes die from the cold, which upsets gardeners. At proper preparation bushes for wintering, there will be confidence that they will calmly cope with severe frosts.

The branches are tied with a rope so that during strong gusts of wind the fruit buds are not damaged. You can simply bend them to the ground and cover them with covering material. Young shoots are buried completely with soil. In autumn, it's time to think about growing currants with young seedlings. Biologists recommend placing various types this plant. Additional pollination produces yields with large berries currants.

Summer is a busy time for gardeners and summer residents. Already from mid-July, currants begin to develop buds. next year. Therefore, before the end of August, you need to set aside time and tidy up the berry bushes. Mandatory procedures: pruning, watering, loosening, fertilizing and protection from pests.

Have you harvested your currants? Don't rush to finish things with the bushes. They don't look very nice, of course: sticking out in different sides branches, yellowing leaves, shoots, slightly or severely damaged by pests. All this needs to be removed.

Advice! Do not confuse summer processes with autumn ones. Processing the bush after harvesting is preparation for subsequent activities. However, it is necessary to carry out all procedures in order to get a good harvest next year. Besides, summer feeding will allow the bushes to gain strength before wintering.

The processing process is carried out on all currant bushes, regardless of the variety. Let's consider what and how to do correctly to improve the health of berry plants.

Pruning after harvest

Sanitary pruning is carried out after removing the berries. Sharpen the pruning shears and first trim diseased, dry, old, thick brown shoots with plaque and damaged branches. Also remove excess root shoots located inside the bush. These shoots only thicken the plant. Powerful annuals should be shortened by 5-8 cm, but branches that lie on the ground or almost touch the ground will have to be removed completely.

Ballast prevents the bushes from developing normally and takes away juices. Once all unnecessary branches are removed, the plant will direct its sap to the main shoots. Remember that the thicker the bush, the fewer berries it bears, so regular pruning of currants should become a habit.

And now the leaves. Pluck damaged, old, diseased leaves by hand, but only on black currants. On red bushes, the leaves should fall off on their own so that the plant does not experience severe stress.

Advice! If after pruning there are good healthy branches in the pile, they are cut into cuttings and used for propagation. The leaves can be added to marinades, dried and brewed into tea.

Proper watering of currants

In order for berry plants to lay strong buds, they need moisture. Watering is carried out after pruning and harvesting the leaves. Add warm fresh water under the bushes in volume: for red currants 1-2 buckets for each bush, for black currants - 3-4 buckets also for each bush. The next watering will be only in the fall before wintering the bushes.

Abundant watering for black currants is needed to nourish root system, which is located close to the ground surface. Red and white berries have a deeper root system.

Feeding bushes after harvesting

By mid-summer, the soil is already pretty depleted, so the bushes will have to be fed with a variety of compounds. Will come in handy mineral mixture and organics. And if the berry plants look tired, then anti-stress treatment is carried out.

Ingredients for processing currants:

• For 1 bucket of water take 1 tbsp. l. superphosphate and potassium sulfate, add 1 tbsp. wood ash. Pour the mixture under each bush.
• Dilute bird droppings (1:12) or mullein (1:6) with water, leave for a week and then feed the bushes. Ready mix once again diluted with water at the rate of 1 bucket of 0.5 liters of infusion with droppings or 1 liter of mullein infusion. Pour a bucket of water under each bush (the grooves will help apply the fertilizer more evenly).
• There is no time to infuse organic matter, add 1 bucket of compost under each currant bush.
• A pile of potato peelings - the best remedy for feeding the bush. Scatter around the perimeter or dig up cleaning. Fish meal and scales, 400 grams each, will also come in handy. for one bush.

Advice! Currants cannot tolerate chlorine additives. Therefore, it is better to leave potassium chloride and compounds with it until spring.

Anti-stress treatment consists of feeding with complex mineral compounds. It can be nitrophoska, and spray the leaves with Zircon. Both mixtures have a beneficial effect on berry plants and help to recover from exhaustion. If the currant is affected by chlorosis, this can be seen by the intense yellowing of the leaves, treat with nitrogen: 1 tbsp. l. urea per 10 liters of water and spray the bush.

Pest treatment

Both affected and apparently healthy bushes need to be treated:

1. A 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture, fungicides Topaz, Fundazol help against fungus.
2. From powdery mildew repeat the treatment after 7-10 days or according to the instructions for the drug used.
3. For currant gall midge, use Lepidotsid, Kinmiks, Bitobaxibacillin.
4. From kidney mite: Tick beetle, Karbafos.
5. From the glass: Fitoverm, Iskra, Aktara, Lepidotsid;
6. From aphids: Kinmiks, Fufanon, Iskra.

Advice! Treat with insecticides no earlier than 5 days after applying fungicides.

After the mulch is scattered, the plants are protected, you can calmly wait for the first frost. Then once again remove the weeds, carrion and leaves under the bushes, add soil to protect the roots from frost. And on the first day of snow, wrap the bushes with matting, burlap, spunbond and wrap them with twine - this will protect the berry plants from the cold.

And gardeners berry bush. The harvest has already been harvested. It may not be of the quality or quantity you expected, but it’s time to take care of next year’s harvest.

Oksana Filippova

Our permanent staff will help you figure out how to do this correctly. dacha expert Oksana Filippova.

— Oksana, what should be the proper care for currant bushes after picking berries?

— Currants require care not only after harvesting, but from spring to autumn. I’ll tell you using the example of black currant. When the harvest has already been harvested, it is necessary to do pruning to relieve the bush and give the plant the opportunity to lay more fruit-bearing buds, and then harvest it next year. best harvest with large, sweet berries.

On my black currants, I cut out all the fruiting branches from which the berries were collected, almost at the root, so that there are no old branches left. There is still enough time until autumn; the currants will produce new young shoots, which will bear fruit next year. By pruning, we rejuvenate the bushes and stimulate the growth of new branches.

If you leave the branches that bore fruit this year, then next year you will get much smaller berries on them, and there will be less harvest.

I grow currants of the Yadrenaya variety, the berries are large, the size of a two-ruble coin, tasty, stick well to the branches, and do not fall off even in very heavy downpours.

Do not hesitate to cut off fruit-bearing branches. And from cut branches you can make cuttings for replacement. We cut them off at the heel of the main trunk and root them. In the future they will replace the old bushes. Because currants, like any plant, need replacement. The bush grows and, accordingly, produces a worse harvest. That is, 3-5 years and you need to plant a new bush.

On young shoots that will bear fruit next year, it is now necessary to pinch the crown so that more shoots will grow in the axils before autumn, which will also bear a harvest. We pinch 3-4 buds from the top. The more additional shoots there are on this branch, the even more harvest there will be on the currant bush.

— Are all varieties black currant Are they cut equally?

- No, not all. This pruning is done only on black currants. Hybrid currants, like golden ones, are pruned differently. Red and white currant, which are also common among summer residents, are also pruned differently. Because the bush grows completely differently from black currants.

— It turns out that currants, which bear fruit so well, reduce their yield due to age? Or are there other reasons?

- Maybe. Another reason could be a currant disease or pests, such as glass beetle. It is quite difficult to notice it right away, but it greatly affects the quantity and quality of the harvest. Water also plays an important role. In rainy weather, like now, when the berries are poured, they burst. And in May, when flower buds are being laid, there was not enough moisture. The currants had to be watered with 2-3 buckets for each bush. Otherwise, it will be small, the bush will not form, and the berry will fall off. And accordingly, we will not get the quantity and quality of berries that we wanted.

“I have several blackcurrant bushes, and they vary from year to year - sometimes they are large, sometimes medium, but I always want to have a good harvest. I would like to know how to get larger berries. What does blackcurrant need for this?

— Firstly, the size and weight of the berry is inherent in the variety. Today the Yadrenaya variety is the most large variety which I know. If the manufacturer specifies a berry of 2-3 grams, then no matter how we feed it, no matter what we do with it, it cannot be larger.

And if you planted a large variety and the result does not suit you, then there may be several reasons. As mentioned above, when currants begin to bloom and set fruit, they may not have enough water. Nutrition - it is very important to feed currants with nitrogen or complex fertilizers in early spring. Currants respond very well to feeding with humus. And don’t forget that currants are a plant with a superficial root system. If the root system overheats, the berries may not even set, and the flower stalks may fall off completely.

To prevent the roots from overheating under the currants, it is necessary to make mulch from grass, hay, or straw, in a layer of 20-30 centimeters.

— I heard that you need to place potato peelings under the currant roots. This is right?

— Currants respond very well to such feeding. Potato peelings contain a large number of potassium, which is also necessary for currants. Plus starch content. Accordingly, all this begins to rot, and we get a kind of humus. We dry the peelings in winter, in spring and summer you can use fresh ones, lay them out at the root and mulch them with grass or straw on top. This will make the decomposition process better. I do not recommend burying the peelings, as this can damage the superficial root system of the currant, which can cause it to get sick and even die.

— Oksana, what are those orange warts that appear on currant leaves?

“At first these warts aren’t even orange, at first they Green colour. There are two reasons for their appearance: either a disease or a pest. At the first stage, the so-called warts, if it is anthracnose, which affects both gooseberries and currants, the spots will turn brown and turn red. This fungal disease, which is spread by the wind, carries fungal spores. The disease is well treated with the drugs Propiconazole, Propy Plus, Prognosis. These drugs can also be used for prevention, because it is not known where the wind will bring spores. If your own currant is clean, but your neighbor’s is sick, then the spores are picked up by the wind and spread. Therefore, we carry out preventive maintenance in the spring and after harvesting. Even if there are no spots and no signs of disease. It could also be glass rust. External sign exactly the same as anthracnose, but on the reverse side you can see orange papillae. The disease is treated with the same drugs.

The same warts on leaves are created by gall aphids. But on the reverse side, if you look closely, you can see small bulges, which are called galls, and the larvae of this pest are deposited in them.

— And finally, is it necessary to somehow prepare currants for winter?

— Like all plants, currants need to be prepared for winter. Preparation is about processing. This year there is an infestation of aphids. It’s even on celandine, where it hasn’t been seen before. Aphids also attack currants, regardless of the time of year.

It is very easy to notice on currants. If the leaves on the top of the head begin to curl, this is the first sign that aphids have appeared. Literally a day or two and you need to treat it with drugs. It doesn’t appear for two or three weeks, and when the effect of the drug wears off, the ants will bring it back again. Aphids suck the juice from the plant, so the plants do not develop and the leaves curl.

Aphids are destroyed by practically all preparations - Iskra, Lightning, biological products - Fitoverm, Akarin. But it is carried by ants, so we must fight them first.

In autumn and spring I recommend processing currants systemic drugs, like Commander in double(!) dosage. I'll explain why in double. If you use a one-time dosage, then not every pest that is in the egg or in the cocoon can be destroyed. Therefore, a double dosage is done.

We carry out this treatment in the fall, when the leaves have already fallen, the buds are already falling asleep, the pests are also preparing for winter and at this time it is necessary to carry out the treatment. It is better, of course, to treat the entire area, fences, and benches, that is, all the places where pests can overwinter. And, I repeat, we remove fallen leaves from all bushes and trees. The site should go into winter clean.

— Oksana, Thanks a lot for such a useful interview. I hope readers will take note of your advice.