Armobelt in a one-story house made of shell rock. Pouring an armored belt in an aerated concrete house. Nuances when working with wooden structures
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Reinforced belt (reinforced belt) is a reinforced concrete layer that is laid along the entire perimeter of the building. The installation of an armored belt with reinforcement and formwork increases strength load-bearing walls. This allows you to increase the strength and service life of the structure. As practice shows, it is practically not subject to destruction even during soil subsidence or shifting. Armopoyas are also called seismic belts, reinforced concrete or unloading belts.
Why do you need an armored belt and support frame?
Reinforced belt (reinforced belt) - a reinforced concrete layer that is laid along the entire perimeter of the buildingThe building materials that are used for construction today have many advantages. However, most of them are insufficiently rigid and react negatively to point forces.
In order to strengthen buildings made of brick or block materials, you need to know how to make formwork for an armored belt. Most often they resort to this during:
- construction of a shallow foundation;
- building a house on a site with a slope;
- close location of the building to the reservoir;
- construction work on subsidence soil;
- construction of structures in seismically active zones.
The production of armored belts is carried out using several technologies: with disposable or removable formwork. Using ready-made blocks permanent formwork, you can quickly assemble a form for pouring concrete. Typically, in this case, polystyrene foam blocks are used - this way the formation of cold bridges is excluded.
Disposable and removable formwork can be done by hand. In the latter case, boards are used instead of ready-made blocks - this significantly reduces the cost of construction.
When is an armored belt device necessary?
Soil shrinkage, wind loads and temperature fluctuations have a significant impact on the condition of the building. In order to make the building invulnerable to negative factors environment, additional reinforcement will be required. Maximum efficiency demonstrates a seismic belt during construction from gas silicate blocks (they are especially vulnerable to bending type deformations.)
Belt reinforcement with four-bar mesh The armored belt takes on the main load and helps to increase the service life of the structure. You need to use it:
- to evenly distribute the load on the building frame;
- when attaching timber to the tops of walls (an armored belt under the roof prevents the occurrence of excessive vertical loads);
- in order to correct mistakes made during masonry;
- fixation closed line, which is the basis for fastening the roof;
- ensuring high rigidity of the building.
Formwork for armored belts also simplifies the process of pouring foundations, walls, ceilings and other reinforced concrete structures. This system consists of a deck in contact with concrete, scaffolding and fastening elements. Formwork is made from various materials:
- rolled, sheet steel;
- aluminum;
- boards, chipboard or plywood;
- plastic and its varieties.
DIY foundation formwork What is the structure of a reinforced belt?
A long-lasting and reliable foundation requires a lot of building materials. To avoid wasteful expenses, experts recommend using a special calculator for calculating armored belts. You can find it on thematic sites - you just need to enter the basic parameters of the future foundation. The exact calculation of the armored belt is carried out based on the following data:
- tape length;
- tape width;
- desired foundation height;
- number of reinforcement threads;
- reinforcement diameter.
IN modern construction Several reinforced belts are used. Each armored belt design presented below differs in its installation method and purpose. It is recommended to take into account the features of each of them for durable and competent construction:
- the first belt (grillage) is poured simultaneously with the strip foundation (concrete is poured into the trench to a depth of 300-400 mm) This is the key to the strength of external and permanent internal walls;
- the second belt is laid on top of foundation blocks 200-400 mm high. Since it distributes the load on the foundation from the entire house, it is important to use reinforcement during the construction of each floor of multi-story buildings;
The third belt is designed to tighten the walls and prevent cracks from appearing in the future - the third belt is designed to tighten the walls and prevent cracks from appearing in the future. The arrangement of armored belt formwork promotes uniform load distribution over window and doorways– it is laid on top of silicate blocks, under slabs interfloor ceilings;
- the armored belt under the roof takes on the entire load from the roof, negative impact strong wind and precipitation. It is performed under the roof beams to strengthen the beams using anchor bolts.
How to make formwork for an armored belt
If you have chosen a more economical formwork method, it is important to install wooden panels in such a way that their position is not disturbed due to concrete pressure.
You need to pass the anchors through the wood and install plugs on them using electric welding. Filling the interfloor reinforced belt is much faster:
- a 6 x 100 mm screw is attached to the bottom of the wooden panel;
- the distance between the screws should be about 700 mm;
- the shield is applied to the wall, a hole is drilled into which a screw is inserted;
- recommended hole diameter is 6 mm.
The upper part of the formwork is also installed quite simply, according to a similar scheme, but instead of a screw, a self-tapping screw is used. A hole is drilled in the brick or face masonry seam into which the reinforcement is driven. Next, the self-tapping screw and reinforcement are tied together with binding wire. The distance between the fastening elements should be maintained within 1-1.5 m. After the reinforced belt has hardened, the formwork can be removed. In the warm season, concrete sets in a day; in winter and autumn it will take more than two days.
Formwork for armored belts under floor slabs It is important to control the level of the upper edge of the formwork - differences should not exceed 1 cm. From this point of view, it is more rational to use permanent or combined formwork.
If you plan to further insulate the facade with polystyrene foam, permanent formwork made of polystyrene blocks will become an element of the insulating layer. The only difference between the manufacturing technology of such formwork and removable formwork is the connection of several parts for the armored belt of the floor. They should be fastened in such a way that during the concrete hardening process the solution does not move them apart.
How to properly fill an armored belt
A high-quality installation of an armored belt consists of proper laying of the reinforcement frame and filling the forms with concrete. The most reliable is considered to be a frame made of metal rods (8-10 mm cross-section), fastened together with wire and laid horizontally in a mold. It is important to fasten the frame with a ring of binding wire every 50 cm.
In order for the construction of a reinforced belt to be as effective as possible, it is necessary to pour the solution so that the entire reinforcement frame is completely immersed in concrete. After pouring, make sure that the metal rods do not come into contact with the formwork: in order to adjust the height, you can place pieces of brick or other building material under the frame. At the final stage, all that remains is to pour the concrete into the molds and compact it. After it has completely “set”, the forms are disassembled.
Pouring the armored belt with concrete To strengthen the foundation and bearing structures future building, it is not necessary to have special skills. Using the following recommendations, you will learn how to properly fill the armored belt so that the building is stable and durable, despite any external negative factors.
- under the floor beams will last much longer if you first level the walls and clean them of any remaining concrete mortar;
- When choosing a material for fastening wooden panels, it is important to use self-tapping screws. They, unlike nails, can be quickly removed using a cordless screwdriver;
- fiberglass reinforcement is resistant to low temperatures, but at extreme high temperatures the material begins to melt - this must be taken into account when choosing building materials;
- When reinforcing brickwork, ensure complete sealing of the joints. Fill the resulting gaps with a thick solution with the addition of polyurethane foam or a special film;
- It is especially important to carry out the formwork in one step (you can find out more about how to properly reinforce a strip foundation with your own hands on this website);
- the main condition for reinforcement is a closed structure. Strengthening should not be interrupted under any circumstances;
- There are several conflicting opinions about whether foundation reinforcement can be welded. Experts say that the strength and rigidity at the weld joint are somewhat reduced.
- it is preferable to use high-quality concrete of at least M200 grade;
- correct reinforcement of corners implies fastening reinforcement only using bent elements;
- during hot periods, you need to generously moisten the treated surfaces with water - this way you will prevent cracks from appearing in the frozen solution.
Remove from wooden barrel steel hoops and it will fall apart. Clean up around the house reinforced belt and the building will not stand for long. This is a simplified but very clear explanation of the need to strengthen walls. Anyone who is going to build a durable house will benefit from information about the purpose, types and design of armored belts.
What is this structure and what functions does it perform? Armopoyas - ribbon made of monolithic reinforced concrete, which is laid on several levels of the building under construction.
The reinforced belt is poured in the foundation, under the floor slabs and under the mauerlats (supporting beams of the rafters).
This amplification method performs four important functions:
- Increases the spatial rigidity of the building.
- Protects the foundation and walls from cracks caused by uneven settlement and frost heaving of the soil.
- Prevents heavy floor slabs from pushing through fragile gas and foam concrete.
- Connects securely rafter system roofs with walls made of light blocks.
Reinforced concrete has been and remains the main material for increasing the rigidity of walls. For small outbuildings, you can use a less powerful brick armored belt. It consists of 4-5 rows of brickwork, the width of which is equal to the width of the load-bearing wall. In the seam of each row, a mesh with a cell of 30-40 mm made of steel wire with a diameter of 4-5 mm is placed on the mortar.
Reinforcing walls with a reinforced belt is not always required. Therefore, there is no need to waste money on its device in the following cases:
- under the base of the foundation lies a strong soil (rocky, coarse clastic or coarse sand, not saturated with water);
- the walls are built of brick;
- a one-story house is being built, which is covered wooden beams, and not reinforced concrete panels.
If on the site there are weak soils(pulverized sand, loam, clay, loess, peat), then the answer to the question of whether a reinforcing belt is needed is obvious. You cannot do without it even when the walls are built from expanded clay concrete or cellular blocks (foam or aerated concrete).
These are fragile materials. They cannot withstand ground movements and point loads from interfloor floor slabs. The armored belt eliminates the risk of wall deformation and evenly distributes the load from the slabs onto the blocks.
For arbolite blocks (the wall thickness is not less than 30 cm, and the strength grade is not lower than B2.5), an armored belt is not needed.
For Mauerlat
The wooden beam on which the rafters rest is called the Mauerlat. It cannot push through the foam block, so someone may think that an armored belt is not needed under it. However, the correct answer to this question depends on the material from which the house is built. Fastening the Mauerlat without an armored belt is allowed for brick walls. They securely hold the anchors with which the Mauerlat is attached to them.
If we are dealing with light blocks, then the armored belt will have to be filled. It is impossible to reliably fix anchors in aerated concrete, foam concrete and expanded clay blocks. Therefore very strong wind can tear the Mauerlat from the wall along with the roof.
For the foundation
Here the approach to the amplification problem does not change. If the foundation is assembled from FBS blocks, then an armored belt is definitely necessary. Moreover, it must be done at two levels: at the level of the sole (base) of the foundation and at its upper cut. This solution will protect the structure from intense loads arising during the rise and settlement of the soil.
Rubble concrete strip foundations also require reinforcement with a reinforced belt, at least at the level of the sole. Rubble concrete is an economical material, but not resistant to soil movements, so it needs reinforcement. But a monolithic “tape” does not need an armored belt, since its basis is a steel three-dimensional frame.
There is no need for this design and for continuous foundation slab, which is poured under buildings on soft soils.
What types of interfloor ceilings require an armored belt?
Under the panels that rest on expanded clay concrete blocks, gas or foam concrete, a reinforced belt must be made without fail.
For monolithic reinforced concrete floor it does not need to be poured, since it evenly transfers the load to the walls and firmly connects them into a single spatial structure.
Armopoyas under wooden floor, which rests on light blocks (aerated concrete, expanded clay, foam concrete) is not required. In this case, it will be enough to pour under the beams support platforms made of concrete 4-6 cm thick to eliminate the risk of pushing through the blocks.
How to make an armored belt correctly?
The technology for constructing a reinforced stiffening belt is no different from the method of pouring a monolithic foundation.
In general, it consists of three operations:
- Manufacturing of reinforcement frame;
- Installation of formwork;
- Pouring concrete.
Certain subtleties and nuances in the work appear depending on the area where the armored belt is located.
Reinforced belt for the foundation
Answering the question of how to make a reinforced belt under the foundation (level 1), let’s say that its width should be 30-40 cm greater than the width of the supporting part of the main concrete “ribbon”. This will significantly reduce the pressure of the building on the ground. Depending on the number of storeys of the house, the thickness of such a stiffening belt can be from 40 to 50 cm.
The reinforced belt of the first level is made for all load-bearing walls of the building, and not just for the external ones. The frame for it is made by knitting reinforcement clamps. Welding is used only for preliminary connection (tack welding) of the main reinforcement into a common spatial structure.
Armoyas of the second level (on the foundation)
This design is essentially a continuation strip foundation(rubble concrete, block). To reinforce it, it is enough to use 4 rods with a diameter of 14-18 mm, tying them with clamps with a diameter of 6-8 mm.
If the main foundation is rubble concrete, then there are no problems with installing the formwork under the armored belt. To do this you need to leave it in free place(20-30 cm) for installing the reinforcement cage, taking into account the protective layer of concrete (3-4 cm).
The situation with FBS blocks is more complicated, since formwork is not installed for them. In this case, wooden spacers should be used, which support the formwork panels from below. Before installation, cut boards are stuffed onto the boards, which protrude 20-30 cm beyond the dimensions of the formwork and prevent the structure from moving to the right or left. To connect the formwork panels, short crossbars are nailed to the top of the boards.
Option for attaching armored belt formwork to foundation blocks
The fastening system can be simplified by using threaded rods. They are placed in pairs in the formwork panels at a distance of 50-60 cm. By tightening the studs with nuts, we get a sufficiently strong and stable structure for pouring concrete without wooden supports and crossbars.
This system is also suitable for formwork, which requires an armored belt for floor slabs.
Studs that will be poured with concrete should be wrapped in glassine or a little applied to them. machine oil. This will make it easier to remove them from the concrete after it has hardened.
Reinforced belt for floor slabs
Ideally, its width should be equal to the width of the wall. This can be done when the façade is completely covered. slab insulation. If for decoration it is decided to use only plaster mortar, then the width of the armored belt will have to be reduced by 4-5 centimeters in order to leave room for foam plastic or mineral wool. Otherwise, a through cold bridge of very substantial dimensions will appear in the area where the stiffening belt is laid.
When making an armored belt on aerated concrete, you can use another solution. It consists of installing two thin blocks along the edges of the masonry. A steel frame is placed in the space between them and concrete is poured. The blocks act as formwork and insulate the belt.
If thickness aerated concrete wall 40 cm, then for this purpose you can use partition blocks 10 cm thick.
If the wall thickness is smaller, you can cut out a cavity for an armored belt in a standard masonry block with your own hands or buy a ready-made aerated concrete U-block.
Reinforced belt under the Mauerlat
The main feature in which the armored belt under the Mauerlat differs from other types of reinforcement is the presence of anchor pins in it. With their help, the timber is firmly fixed to the wall without the risk of tearing off or shifting under the influence of wind loads.
The width and height of the reinforcement frame must be such that after embedding the structure between the metal and outer surface belt on all sides there is at least 3-4 cm of a protective layer of concrete left.
They call it an armored belt reinforced concrete structure, which is designed to strengthen the walls of the house. This is necessary to protect the walls from loads arising under the influence of external/internal factors. External factors include wind exposure, terrain slope/hilliness, floating soil and seismic activity of the earth. The list of internal factors includes all household construction tools, used for interior decoration Houses. If you make an armored belt incorrectly, then due to these phenomena the walls will simply crack, and what’s even worse, they will corrode. In view of this, it is very important to be aware of how to make an armored belt. The types, purpose and method of installation of the armored belt will be discussed in this article.
There are 4 types of armored belt:
- grillage;
- basement;
- interfloor;
- under the Mauerlat.
Before starting work, you should prepare the following tools/materials:
- Fittings.
- Cement.
- Sand.
- Crushed stone.
- Wire for tying reinforcement.
- Boards.
- Self-tapping screws.
- Brick.
- Shovel.
- Crowbar/crowbar.
To ensure that all the work you perform is done with high quality, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the techniques for manufacturing reinforced mesh/framework and formwork.
In order for the reinforced belt to be of high quality, and therefore the house to be reliable, you need to know how to properly make the reinforced mesh/frame. The connection of the reinforcement bars to each other is carried out using a knitting wire, and not a welding seam. This is due to the fact that during welding, the area near the seam being made overheats, which leads to a weakening of the strength of the reinforcement. But you can’t do without welding seams when making mesh. The middle and ends of the frame are welded, while the remaining connecting nodes are tied together.
The rods are fastened to fix the reinforcement in required position when pouring concrete. For these purposes it is used thin wire, the strength of the mesh/frame does not depend on it.
For the manufacture of armored belts, only ribbed rods are used. Concrete clings to the ribs, which helps to increase the load-bearing capacity of the structure. Such a belt can work in tension.
To make a frame, take 2 wires 12 mm thick and 6 m long, while for transverse reinforcement you will need rods 10 mm thick. The transverse reinforcement should be welded in the center and edges. The rest of the rods are simply knitted. After making two meshes, hang them so that a gap is formed. Weld them from the edges and in the center. This way you will have a frame. There is no need to weld the frames to make the belt. They are laid with an overlap of 0.2–0.3 m.
Installation and fastening of formwork is carried out using several methods. To install wooden panels, you need to pass anchors through them and install plugs on them using electric welding. The purpose of these actions is to fix the formwork in such a way that it is not squeezed out under the weight of the concrete.
To secure the formwork when pouring an interfloor armored belt, a simpler method is often used. A screw with a diameter of 6 mm and a length of 10 cm should be fixed to the bottom of the shield. The distance between them is 0.7 m. So, attach the wooden shield to the wall, drill a hole through it, insert a mushroom into it and drive the screw.
The hole in the shield should be slightly larger than 6 mm in diameter. This is necessary in order to easily install the fungus.
The upper part of the formwork is also fixed quick installation. But in this case, you should screw in a self-tapping screw, not a screw. So, make a hole in the face brick. Then drive the reinforcement into it. If the brick is solid, then the situation is simpler - just drive a nail/reinforcement into the vertical seam. Tighten the self-tapping screw and reinforcement with binding wire. The distance between fastening elements is 1–1.2 m. Such fastening is capable of withstanding the upcoming loads.
After the armored belt has hardened, the formwork can be removed using a crowbar/nail puller. In the warm season, concrete sets within a day. In this case, the dismantling of the formwork can be carried out the next day. During the cold season, this procedure is carried out a few days later.
Initially, you should determine the depth of the foundation. This parameter depends on the type of soil, the depth of its freezing, as well as the depth of groundwater. Then you should dig a trench around the perimeter of the future house. This can be done manually, which is long and tedious, or with the help of an excavator, which is quick and efficient, but entails additional costs.
After using special equipment, the bottom and walls of the trench should be leveled to hard ground. The surface should be as hard and smooth as possible.
Now you need to form a sand cushion, the height of which should be 50–100 mm. If it is necessary to backfill sand more than 100 mm, it must be mixed with crushed stone. This activity may be necessary to level the bottom of the trench. Another way to level the bottom is to pour concrete.
After filling the sand cushion, it must be compacted. To complete the task faster, pour water on the sand.
Then the reinforcement should be laid. During the construction process, under normal conditions, you need to use reinforcement of 4–5 cores, the diameter of each rod should be 10–12 mm. It is important that when pouring the grillage for the foundation, the reinforcement does not touch the base. It must be recessed in concrete. Thus, the metal will be protected from corrosion. To achieve this, the reinforcing mesh should be raised above the sand cushion, placing brick halves under it.
If you are building a house on heaving soil or where the groundwater level is high, then the grillage should be made more durable. To do this, instead of reinforcing mesh, you should use a reinforcement cage. He imagines 2 meshes consisting of 4 wires with a diameter of 12 mm. They should be laid below and above the armored belt. Granular slag is used as a base instead of a sand cushion. Its advantage over sand is that over time, granulated slag turns into concrete.
To make the mesh, a knitting wire is used rather than a welding seam.
For the grillage, M200 concrete should be used. To ensure that the filling height corresponds to the specified value, install a beacon in the trench - a metal peg equal in length to the height of the grillage. It will serve as your guide.
Before erecting walls, a basement reinforced belt should be poured onto the foundation. It must be poured along the perimeter of the building along external walls, but this cannot be done along internal load-bearing walls. The base armored belt serves as additional reinforcement of the structure. If you have filled the grillage with high quality, then the plinth belt can be made less durable. The height of the armored belt is 20–40 cm, concrete M200 and higher is used. The thickness of two-core reinforcing bars is 10–12 mm. The reinforcement is laid in one layer.
If you need to strengthen the base belt, then use reinforcement of greater thickness or install more conductors. Another option is to lay the reinforced mesh in 2 layers.
The thickness of the basement and external walls is the same. It ranges from 510 to 610 mm. When pouring the base armored belt, you can do without formwork, replacing it with brickwork. To do this, you need to make half-brick masonry on both sides of the wall. You can fill the resulting void with concrete after placing reinforcement in it.
In the absence of a grillage, it is useless to make a base armored belt. Some craftsmen, having decided to save on the grillage, strengthen the base belt, using reinforcement of a larger diameter, which supposedly improves the load-bearing capacity of the house. In fact, such a decision is unreasonable.
The grillage is the foundation of the house, and the plinth belt is an addition or strengthening of the load-bearing capabilities of the reinforced belt for the foundation. Collaboration grillage and plinth belt guarantee a reliable foundation even on heaving soils and with high level occurrence of groundwater.
An armored belt must also be made between the wall and the floor slabs. It is poured along external walls with a height of 0.2 to 0.4 m. Interfloor armored belt allows you to save on door/window lintels. They can be made small and with a minimum of reinforcement. Thus, the load on the structure will be distributed evenly.
If an armored belt is installed on walls made of poorly load-bearing material, the load from the floor slabs will be distributed evenly along the entire length of the walls, which will have a beneficial effect on their strength characteristics.
Reinforcement interfloor belt It is made with a mesh of ribbed reinforcing bars 10–12 mm thick in 2 cores. If the wall thickness varies between 510–610 mm, then double-sided formwork can be used brickwork, as for the base belt. But at the same time for internal masonry Backfill bricks should be used, and for external facing bricks. In this case, the armored belt will have a width of 260 mm. If the walls are thinner, the backing brick should be laid on edge or wooden formwork should be used instead, and with outside The facing brick is laid in the same way as in the previous case.
The armored belt can be poured under the Mauerlat only after the glue/mortar for masonry walls has hardened. The technology used to lay the reinforced belt on aerated concrete differs in the formwork design, but we will talk about this a little later. The production of wooden formwork is carried out according to a scheme already familiar to you. Concrete is prepared according to the following formula: 2.8 parts sand to 1 part cement and 4.8 parts crushed stone. Thus, you will get M400 concrete.
After filling, eliminate any remaining air bubbles in the mixture. To accomplish these tasks, use a construction vibrator or poke a rod into the liquid mass.
At monolithic device armored belt, you should follow the rules for attaching the Mauerlat. During the installation of the reinforcement frame, vertical sections should be removed from it to the height specified in the project. The reinforcement bars should rise above the reinforced belt by the thickness of the Mauerlat + 4 cm. Through holes must be made in the beam, equal to diameter fittings, and threads should be cut at its ends. Yes, you can do it reliable fastening, which will give you the opportunity to carry out high-quality installation of a roof of any configuration.
Aerated concrete is an alternative to brick, which has high thermal insulation qualities along with low cost. Aerated concrete blocks inferior to brick in strength. If, when installing an armored belt on brick walls There is no need to pour concrete, since the reinforcement is laid during the laying process, but with aerated concrete things are different. How to make an armored belt wooden formwork has already been mentioned above, so in this subsection we will look at how to make a reinforced belt from U-shaped aerated concrete blocks D500. Although it is worth noting immediately that this technology is more expensive.
In this case, everything is extremely simple. Place the blocks on the wall in as usual. Then reinforce their central part, and then fill it with concrete. Thus, the walls of your home will be more durable and reliable.
If you still have questions on the topic, then ask them to a specialist working on the site. If necessary, you can consult with our expert about filling the armored belt. Eat personal experience? Share it with us and our readers, write comments on the article.
Video
You can learn how to make an armored belt for a house made of aerated concrete from the video:
In we talked about modern construction realities in Crimea. Namely: about local priorities in choosing wall material, its properties and qualities; about the technology of building a house, prices for wood, aerated concrete, limestone, shell rock and sand. We also considered the question of what is best to build from stone house: made of aerated concrete or unusual for Moscow, but popular on the Crimean peninsula, “shells”. We continue the topic we started and, based on the experience of a portal participant with the nickname huntdogs, consider a house made of shell rock and answer the following questions:
- Should I link the two? different foundations.
- How to build a strip foundation when there is a difference in height on the site.
- How much does it cost to build a foundation in Crimea?
- How to fill seismic columns in a house made of shell stone.
How to build a shell rock house on two different foundations
Although construction huntdogs- is in full swing, and there is still a lot to be built; the house made of shell rock has already acquired a “face”.
We wrote earlier that huntdogs remade the original project, because... changed his mind about building a one-and-a-half-story building with an attic and gave preference classic version- a full-fledged two-story house with a gable roof. But due to a lack of funds, it is planned to stretch out the construction of the cottage over time, and then attach an additional one with a terrace and veranda to the main “box”.
Model house
At this stage you have huntdogs The question arose whether it was possible to build an extension on a separate foundation adjacent to the main house and whether it should be connected to the main strip one. The following responses from portal users followed.
BurivesNIK FORUMHOUSE Member
I already have a negative experience of attaching a secondary one to the main strip foundation - a slab foundation for a garage. Result: two seasons passed, and everything went away. The foundations each live their own “life,” and relatives now regularly have to deal with caulking and foaming the vertical and horizontal cracks that have appeared. I think that in the case of huntdogs, it is best to build the extension on an independent foundation, but then the problem of waterproofing the junction arises, because Water may flow into the gap between the two foundations.
To get away from this, the user suggested pouring it under the extension pile foundation with “heels” with a hanging grillage, having previously laid mortgages for the load-bearing columns of the veranda. Then, during the construction of the veranda, the terrace covering is dismantled, columns are installed, and the second floor is erected.
Eric Nord FORUMHOUSE Member
My godfather poured two unrelated strip foundations, and then this amazing person I mounted FBS blocks with dressing on them. Subsequently, cracks appeared on the plastered walls. Two unrelated foundations, each “living” in its own way.
huntdogs User FORUMHOUSE
Judging by the experience of those who have already built, you cannot connect two different foundations - they will tear. If you build it, then it will be 2 separate and independent of each other. I will think about how best to build a foundation for the extension. In my opinion, using piles with a grillage is a good idea.
In order not to guess how the foundation will behave in a few years, it must be calculated for a specific building. Mandatory - taking into account the geological data of the soil on the site, its bearing capacity and collecting loads from the future home.
Construction of a strip foundation when there is a difference in height on the site
huntdogs I decided to pour a classic Crimean strip foundation for a house made of shell rock. Foundation dimensions:
- length - 10200 mm;
- width – 6900 mm.
To do this, they dug a trench (removing the layer of chernozem to dense clay) 1000 mm deep and 450 mm wide.
A “cushion” of ASG, about 30 cm, is poured onto the bottom and compacted thoroughly.
Our article talks about how it can cause harm.
huntdogs
We decided to take ASG because it is cheaper than sand. Compare: sand in Crimea costs 2 thousand rubles. for 1 ton, and ASG with a small admixture of sea pebbles - 1200 rubles. for 1 ton. The prices are high, but it needs to be built. We ordered 5 tons.
ASG was poured into buckets and poured out of them into a narrow trench.
About prices: the cost of renting a vibrating plate (the vibrating plate will not fit in a trench) is 1200 rubles/day + a deposit of 10 thousand rubles.
Let us add that the height difference in the area in the foundation construction spot is 1200 mm (from the highest to the lowest point). Based on this, as well as to save concrete, the user decided to pour the foundation in two stages. First, the underground part is erected, the embedded parts (reinforcement) are released, and then the above-ground part of the foundation is poured. Moreover, in order to reduce costs, the top of the tape is made into steps, which are then filled with shell rock, and the plane is brought to “zero” before further laying of the walls.
The foundation construction process was divided into a number of sequential steps:
1. Permanent sheet formwork was installed in the trench flat slate. According to the user, at first he thought of pouring the solution directly into the ground, covering the trench with polyethylene, but in the end the trench, especially the corners, began to crumble.
We bought used slate for 100 rubles. per sheet measuring 0.9x1.4 m. The sheets were sawed in half. A new slate of the same type costs 500 rubles. for 1 sheet.
Total for slate formwork huntdogs spent 10 thousand rubles.
2. Reinforcement of strip foundation. Reinforcement “ten”, three rods were laid at the bottom, two rods in the middle of the strip and three rods at the top of the foundation, not forgetting to leave embedded reinforcement outlets under the “base”.
The clamps were made from “six” reinforcement.
3. Pouring the underground part of the foundation.
huntdogs
The foundation was poured using a concrete pump. The thing is convenient, but expensive. In total, 15 cubic meters of concrete were needed to pour. 1 cubic meter of concrete costs differently, but on average they charge from 4,500 to 5,200 rubles. Rent of a concrete pump – 8 thousand rubles for 1 hour.
When pouring the foundation, you need to remember the need to vibrate the concrete.
4. Assembling the formwork for the above-ground part of the strip foundation.
The base part of the “ribbon” comes with two ledges.
The most difficult thing is to level the formwork, doing it alone.
1 cube of boards cost almost 10 thousand rubles.
After assembly, the formwork was tightened plastic film density 200 microns.
Lifehack from FORUMHOUSE: huntdogs, Having set the hydraulic level to “zero” along the entire perimeter of the formwork, I took advantage of the portal users’ suggestion on how to control the horizon when pouring concrete. To do this, take an ordinary 10 mm plaster “beacon” and attach it with screws to the walls of the formwork along the marks left from the hydraulic level.
In addition to a clear visual reference, which, unlike stretched fishing lines or steel cables, will not go astray, an additional bonus of the method is that internal guides are obtained along which it is convenient to pull the concrete mixture with a wide spatula to achieve a level top of the foundation.
There is material on the portal where they are given that will not collapse when pouring concrete.
5. Reinforcing the corners of the strip foundation and pouring concrete.
Additionally, the user made a tray for feeding concrete into the formwork.
huntdogs
Concrete was poured using a hydraulic chute to a depth of 9 meters. It is convenient to supply the mixture to the far corners of the foundation. At the same time, I tested plaster “beacons” to control the horizon level. The idea works 100%!
This is what the user ended up with after stripping.
Estimate for the construction of a strip foundation in Crimea
Interesting costs for building a foundation:
- Dig a trench 1 meter deep, 0.45 m wide, 50 m long linear meters, only about 22.5 cubic meters of land - 10 thousand rubles. This is budget-friendly, with the average Crimean price being 800 rubles. for digging 1 cubic meter of land.
- Flat used slate ( permanent formwork) – 100 sheets for 100 rubles. for 1 sheet – 10 thousand rubles.
- Boards for formwork 3 cubes – 35 thousand rubles.
- Polyethylene – more than 3 thousand rubles.
- Reinforcement with a diameter of 10 mm, total 300 m – 10 thousand rubles.
- 24 cubes of concrete at a price of 4,700 rubles. for 1 cubic meter – 112,800 rubles.
- Consumables (screws, binding wire) were not counted.
Total: excluding work, about 200 thousand rubles were spent on the foundation. (if you add small items and additional expenses).
huntdogs
I did everything that was possible on my own - knitting reinforcement cages, installing formwork, pouring concrete, etc. All responsible work- construction of foundations, floors, reinforcement, etc. I also did it myself. The “mercenaries” worked only under constant supervision on my part. You are building something for yourself.
- a special building structure that strengthens the building by fixing the brickwork. The seismic belt is indispensable in the construction of architectural structures. The configuration of the monolithic reinforced concrete belt corresponds to the outline of the house. Pouring an armored belt is a construction operation that requires special skills. The process is relevant and increased attention is paid to it if the task is to build an object, equip the walls and roof.
The armored belt is poured after laying the final row of cinder block, gas block, foam block or other building material that has insufficient strength. It is problematic to secure beams for installing rafters to fragile building materials. If you fill the reinforced belt correctly, you will ensure reliable fastening of the floor elements. The belt is a foundation located between the floors of an object, which increases the stability of the construction object under construction. It redistributes the forces created by the building elements. The seismic belt increases the resistance of the building structure to temperature changes, wind loads, and shrinkage.
Reinforced belt is a special design that is used for reliable fixation of brickwork
If the construction project is two-storey house, then two identical armored belts are poured. The first device is completed when the construction of the circuits is completed ground floor. Ceiling elements are installed on it. The second level of reinforcement is performed after the completion of the construction of the second floor. It is the basis for attaching the rafters.
The feasibility of constructing a reinforced belt
In what cases is it necessary to strengthen the structure? Is it possible to do without it? The seismic belt is poured in the following situations:
- insufficiently deep foundation;
- ravines and ponds are located in close proximity;
- the building was built in mountainous terrain;
- possible shrinkage of the soil under the building;
- the object is located in a seismic zone.
What is the support frame for?
Row modern materials used in construction, has a range of advantages. But due to insufficient rigidity, they negatively perceive point forces. You can prevent destruction by installing an armored belt. This event is a justified necessity for modern buildings, including brick ones.
If a house is built from block materials, it is often exposed to natural influences
Overlapping the roof affects the building with two types of forces:
- Vertically acting load transmitted by the mass of the roof and external factors: wind load, snow cover, seismic components. Spot impact roof truss transforms into uniformly distributed.
- A thrust force transmitted to the base by supported rafters. The roof is trying to force the building apart. This is counteracted by a steel bar reinforced belt.
Functional purpose
The reinforced frame performs a number of important tasks:
- maintaining the contour and preventing wall deformation during soil shrinkage and earthquakes;
- leveling the structure being erected in the horizontal plane and eliminating errors made during laying;
- ensuring the rigidity of the building under construction;
- distribution of local or point forces along the supporting plane of load-bearing surfaces;
- fixation of a closed line, which is the basis for fastening the roof.
Regardless of your plans to place an attic above the first floor of the house, the next floor or the roof, remember that you need to take care of strengthening the structure!
Boards for future formwork should be located outside the wall, and not inside, that is, rest against the wall, in the masonry overlay by 2-4 centimeters
Features of preparatory activities
A serious requirement when constructing a belt reinforced with steel bars is compliance with the dimensions. The width should correspond as much as possible to the thickness of the walls, representing a square section structure with a side size of at least 250 millimeters. If the construction of the building is carried out from aerated concrete, then the final row is laid with special blocks of a U-shaped configuration. This chain is a formwork for filling concrete mortar. In a situation where the construction of a house is carried out from brick, the external contour is formed by installing bricks at half the thickness, and the internal contour is made from boards.