Wintering roses. How and with what to properly cover roses for the winter: a step-by-step guide to covering for hybrid tea, climbing, standard, bush and park roses. What to make a shelter for roses for the winter from

Do all roses need protection from the cold, are plants covered in parks and squares? Certainly some species have different conditions.

It is not necessary to apply winter shelter methods to the following species:

• park roses;
• winter-hardy varieties;
• rose hips;
• hybrids of alba, rugosa, spinozissima.

The above species are frost-resistant. Usually their flowering occurs only once, their development stops early.

Garden roses, delicate and exquisite, bloom continuously for almost six months, from the onset of hot days in early June, and even until the first frost. They do not have enough time to develop and grow before the onset of cold weather due to the prolonged growth of their shoots.

Almost all existing decorative varieties garden roses it is necessary to cover for the winter, even the most frost-resistant ones - shrubs (shrubs).

How to properly prepare a plant for insulation?

To determine readiness rose bushes to the shelter you should carefully examine the flower shoots. If in September the color of rose flowers is red or pink, this means that flowering is very active, and the plants are not yet prepared for real wintering.

In order to correct this situation, you need to:

• Feed the bushes phosphorus fertilizers- this will lead to rapid greening of the shoots.
• Mark growth points on plant shoots.
• Leave a few wilted flowers - in this situation, the seeds will begin to ripen, which will provide the plant with a sign that it needs to prepare for winter.

Having completed these activities, proceed to the following, which are the final stage of preparing roses for wintering:

• With the onset of autumn, you should stop all work on digging and loosening the soil among the rose bushes and planting new plants.
• In mid-autumn, absolutely all leaves should be removed from the shoots of climbing roses to avoid further rotting of the plant.
• It is not at all necessary to do pruning in the fall; often pink branches should simply be leaned against the ground, but this is not always feasible.

When can you close the bushes?

Regardless of the selection of material for protecting rose bushes, the start of activities should be organized during the first fall of leaves from the trees. Get rid of dried and damaged branches and correct them if desired appearance bush. An important part is the removal of the remaining dry foliage, which is a measure of protection against pests and bacteria that can cause irreparable harm.

It is recommended to pollinate bushes as a disease prevention measure. chemicals to combat fungal diseases and thin out weeds. Leaves that have fallen are completely burned. It is worth starting to implement these actions by preparing the shelter.

It is recommended to cover rose bushes starting from the end of October. Gardeners advise hiding plants for the winter, when a drop in temperature to -4 degrees can be observed for a week.

Is it worth doing this if snow has already fallen on them?

Definitely, it’s worth covering roses. Such a shelter will have its own nuances. You need to take four empty containers and place them in the corners of the rose garden. Place boards on them around the perimeter and crosswise. Cover the constructed structure with durable non-woven material. Roses will overwinter well under such cover.

How to wrap it up?

The most commonly used means at hand are:

• polyethylene film;
• geotextiles;
• lutrasil;
• spandbond;
• spruce branches;
• dry leaves;
• hard, rough fabric;
• thick blanket or other type of similar fabric;
• boards.

The type of roses plays an important role when choosing winter shelter.

Dependence of the insulation method on the type of flowers

• Park rose. It tolerates frost well, and therefore there is no need for shelter. However, it is better to insulate seedlings or young bushes.
• Ground cover rose. This type does not require special care.
• Floribunda. The bushes are cut in half, leaving a maximum height of 40 cm, and the leaves are removed. Then they hill up and cover with available materials.
• miniature rose. The small ones are hilled up, covered with dry leaves and insulation, and a frame is installed on top of them. On top of metal arches or wooden boxes stretch the film, strengthen the ends.
• climbing rose. The stems are twisted into bundles, thick shoots are carefully pinned with wire so that they do not touch the ground, and laid on dry leaves or pine needles, sprinkled with the same layer of insulation on top and covered with polyethylene or synthetic fiber.
• Shrub rose. Shrub rose you need to shorten it and sprinkle it with a 30 cm layer of prepared soil. In this case, the entire gap must be filled.

  The vaccine must be hidden under a seven-centimeter layer.

• Hybrid tea rose. The optimal method of protection would be an air-dry shelter.
• Standard rose. An air-dry shelter is used.

Types of plant protection from cold

Air dry method

Suitable for floribunda and hybrid tea varieties and is one of the most reliable.

This protection allows you to keep a permanent temperature down to minus four degrees, provides excellent ventilation, and ensures healthy breathing of the plant.

Sequence of frame construction:

1. The frame is made of wire or metal rods about 60 cm high.
2. The bush is surrounded by a cone-shaped fence.
3. Insulation is stretched over the frame. It can be glassine, lutrasil, cardboard. The material is fixed to the support using twine.
4. The resulting “house” is covered with polyethylene, which will prevent moisture from reaching the plant.
5. The lower part of the film is covered with soil.

Shield method

Applicable for climbing rose. With the advent of the first cold weather, it is necessary to get rid of the cover of leaves along with the petioles.

Sequence of work:

1. Tie the prepared bush with a bunch, bend it in the direction where the branches are directed.
2. Spread spruce branches on the surface of the soil to protect against rodents, and lay the bush on top of the litter.
3. Roses are attached to the ground using twisted metal rods in several places.
4. Place a pair of wooden shields nearby, the length of which should be equal to the length of the bush, the width should be about a meter.
5. Place the shields like a house, as an addition, strengthening them with pegs fixed in the ground.

Shields are usually used as a measure of protection for rose bushes growing in a row. Central bush around which others are located perennials, is an unusual situation. In this case, the massive structure can harm them.

We invite you to watch a video on how to cover roses using the shield method:

Jute bags

The shelter is suitable for standard roses.

Work order:

1. A bottomless bag is placed on the crown of the bush, which is tied with twine at the beginning of crown growth.
2. Place spruce branches or dry leaves inside the shelter.
3. Secure the bag at the top, cover the trunk with a rough, durable cloth.

Hilling

Hilling is very simple, less energy-consuming and at the same time effective method wintering roses

Hilling should only be done with a dry mixture. For example, sand alone or soil mixed with sand or compost.

Hilling procedure:

1. Use two buckets of dry mixture per bush.
2. Cover with dry leaves or grass on top.
3. The tops of the bushes are wrapped in several layers of lutrasil.

We invite you to watch a video on how to hill roses:

Photo

Consequences of wrong actions

Gardeners quite often encounter blackened ends of shoots with the onset of spring. Blackened tips of the shoots mean that the edges of the stems are frozen due to improper covering of the bushes for the winter.

In this case, it is necessary to get rid of the damaged black edges, cutting them off to living tissue. When performing circumcision, you need to take the simplest precautions. Another mistake when protecting in winter, which causes blackening of the shoots, is the use of unsuitable materials for shelter.

• Sand or sandy soil. This will lead to rapid heating and cooling. Changes create extreme conditions and hinder favorable conduct winters under cover.
• High peat. This type of fertilizer decomposes, releasing carbon dioxide, which has negative impact on the life of the plant.
• Large sawdust , since they do not provide the necessary heating during frosts.

Lowland peat, finely ground sawdust (thyrsu), and loamy base are much more suitable for hilling. Incorrect covering of rose bushes leads to their death.

What happens if you don't protect the bushes?

Lack of shelter in many cases leads to the death of plants. Despite the certainty that this type roses are frost-resistant, it is advisable to use one of the methods to protect flowers from the winter cold.

Preparing roses in the fall for winter shelter and caring for them during this period is a very responsible and important process, requiring considerable effort. It is the gardener's duty to protect rose bushes from the harsh winter conditions. in central Russia. Magnificent rose bushes will be a delight to look at if they remain healthy.

Roses are my favorite flowers. Perfection of form, delicate scent, exquisitely carved leaves, thin petals various shades make roses the true queens of gardens.

And lovers of these noble beauties are not afraid of the delicacy and whimsical nature of park roses, which grow and bloom only if they are carefully and properly cared for, and overwinter in the open ground only under the condition of high-quality shelter.

Most importantly, if you want to admire the abundant flowering of your beauties all season long, and keep them intact for years, you need to know how to cover roses correctly for the winter. This is what we will talk about.

At the same time, you need to understand that proper shelter for the winter alone will not provide your roses with wellness. For that. In order for the prose not only to successfully overwinter in the open ground, you need to choose a place for planting, regularly feed it, water it properly, prune it in spring and autumn, and prepare it for wintering.

In addition, you need to know exactly when to cover your roses. Then the flower will truly thank you, to the envy of all its neighbors.

Correct fit

Let's start with the most basic thing - choice right place for planting roses. This flower loves the sun and warmth very much, and cannot tolerate drafts at all, they are destructive for it. Accordingly, taking into account these preferences, you need to choose a place on the site - it should be well lit and protected from the wind.

The southern, south-eastern and south-western sides of the site are best suited - the roses will have enough light, they will be able to develop without harming themselves. And it will not be difficult at all to insulate roses in such areas.

It is advisable to plant roses in the spring, when the soil has warmed up sufficiently and the threat of spring frosts has passed. who are very sensitive at night, especially in northern regions or in the Volga region.

However, roses tolerate short frosts well, and they are not afraid of even a fairly strong drop in temperature, down to minus fifteen. Much worse than a rose tolerate dampness.

It is not advisable to plant roses in the fall, because they may not have time to take root before frost, and even winter covering with spruce branches or special covering material will not save them from death.

The hole for planting should be wide and deep enough - the rose has a powerful root system, and she needs a lot of space in order to feel good.

The soil should be fertile, light, loose and nutritious. It is necessary to include organic fertilizer, for example, manure. Unlike many other flowers, roses tolerate even fresh organic matter well.

The distance between rose bushes should be at least a meter - this flower loves space, and this circumstance must be taken into account when planting. In addition, it will be more convenient to cover roses for the winter if there is enough space between the plants.

After the seedling is planted in open ground, the rose bush itself will take about a year to form. The main thing for correct formation bush beautiful shape- this is regular pinching of shoots. more precisely, their tips. If pinched regularly, the bush will grow and take shape.

Some advise removing buds on young bushes so as not to weaken the plant. but personally I have never raised my hand to do this.

The first year the rose bush doesn't bloom very profusely, so I don't think a few flowers will do much to weaken the plant. But how much pleasure the first blossoming buds bring, how they delight gardeners!

Proper watering

Roses love plenty, but not very much frequent watering warm, settled water. It is advisable that water gets directly onto the roots; it is better to avoid getting water on the foliage.

Roses should be watered either in the morning, before the sun begins to get hot, or in the evening, after the heat subsides. If the sky is overcast, you can water the flowers at any time.

Before watering, the soil under the rose bushes needs to be slightly loosened so that a crust does not form - roses love it when oxygen flows freely to the roots. And water in loose soil will not stagnate; roses do not like this.

Stagnant water, like overwatering, is dangerous for roses because the roots can rot. Therefore, it is better to underfill the water than to overfill it.

You need to water roses about once a week, this is quite enough. If it rains, watering should, of course, be reduced.

Watering in autumn is different from summer. From about the end of August, watering should be reduced, because excess moisture promotes the appearance of new shoots, which will prevent the rose from overwintering well and will freeze, creating the risk of infection entering the bush.

When the shoots freeze, and then. directly in the shelter. during a thaw or closer to spring. are starting to thaw. the risk of disease and rotting of the bush is very high. Therefore, such a threat should be avoided.

If the autumn in your region is hot, then it is better to continue abundant watering. This will help the bush prepare for winter period.

Proper pruning

Pruning rose bushes is very important, including for good wintering, so you need to know how to do it.

The first pruning should be done in the spring, after removing the covering material, when the rose begins to wake up after wintering. All old, dry and frozen shoots should be cut out approximately up to the second bud.

In the spring, as soon as the sun begins to warm up, the rose actively grows - new shoots and buds appear, and the stem becomes stronger. therefore, you need to remove all thin, underdeveloped and weak shoots, and also cut out all the shoots that appeared on the stem below the grafting level. Otherwise, your rose will start to run wild.

Removing the lower growth in the spring is a prerequisite for the formation of a rose bush.

If you look closely, you'll notice that the leaves on these shoots resemble rosehip leaves rather than glossy, smooth pink leaves. Now, if this growth is not removed, the rose will begin to turn into a rose hip.

Around the same time, during the first pruning, the rose bush needs to be fed for the first time - with liquid mineral or organic fertilizer.

Pruning varies. and it depends on how the rose overwintered - if you see. If the bush feels bad, then the pruning should be strong, until the second bud - then the bush will renew itself faster and come to its senses.

If the shoots of the rose look good after covering, and the bush looks healthy, you can carry out light formative pruning in the spring, cutting off the shoots very little - with such pruning, at least 10 buds will remain on the stem.

If you don’t know what kind of pruning is best, do medium (moderate), you can’t go wrong - with such pruning, 5 - 7 buds remain on the shoot.

When the roses fade, the remaining flowers can be removed. It is not necessary to do this, there is no clear opinion on this matter, and discussions on this topic do not stop. Personally, I remove dried flowers, simply because the bush looks more aesthetically pleasing without them.
In autumn, roses do not require heavy pruning; you can simply cut off dry flowers, slightly shorten the branches and remove those shoots that grow inside the bush - they are not needed and only interfere with the formation of the bush.

Sheltering roses for the winter

Closer to the onset of cold weather, you should definitely take care of covering your roses.

IN last years Many varieties of roses have been bred that can winter without shelter, but in our climate it is better not to take risks - roses may die if the winter is too cold. Allowing roses to winter without shelter, without fear of their death, is possible only in the southern regions of our country.

You need to cover roses around the end of October - beginning of November, when it is already quite cold. The roots begin to “fall asleep” at the end of September, and if you insulate them too early, they may “wake up”, but this is not necessary. Therefore, shelter must be timely.

There is also no need to “bundle” your roses too much - they may begin to rot, and this is much worse for roses than frost. Therefore, the question of how to cover roses must be approached very carefully.

First, just a few days before sheltering, the soil under the roses must be carefully dug up without damaging the roots. Then the water from the autumn rains will go inside and not ice up around the bushes.

The leaves at the bottom of the bushes should be removed, after which a little sand with ash or just dry, loose soil should be added to the roots of the rose. All this needs to be done around the end of October.

Until the cold weather sets in, there is nothing else you need to do for now. When subzero temperature It will stand for about ten days, then you can start working on the shelter itself.

After this, the roses need to be hilled up to about 15-20 cm, and dry foliage should be sprinkled on top. The lashes should be tied and laid on polystyrene foam.

They can be covered with spruce branches on top, which are pressed to the ground with metal arches and covered with a special covering material. This will provide your roses with dry shelter.

If winters in your area are not very severe, then your roses can be covered simply with loose, dry (necessarily dry!) ​​soil, pouring it into a “slide” and gradually increasing the cone to about 15-20 cm.

This is quite enough for the rose bushes to feel comfortable in winter. You can cover the roses with peat according to the same scheme, spreading it in a cone to a height of up to 20 cm.

It is very important not to delay taking shelter in the spring. This needs to be done gradually, starting from the second ten days of March. By the beginning of April, all coverings should be removed, the soil should be removed from the roots, and after about a week you can begin to trim and feed the roses.

Rose is a luxurious decoration for any garden or summer cottage, it was so, it will always be so, it is not for nothing that she is called the queen of flowers. How to preserve roses in the garden in winter, what to cover them with so that they continue to delight us with the onset of the new season? Let's consider ways to protect roses from frost, all stages of preparing them for winter.

What to cover, photo:

This is a rather delicate and whimsical crop; if the bushes are not covered for the winter, the likelihood that they will die is very high. If the preparation of roses for winter was carried out incorrectly, the plant was poorly insulated, the chances of freezing increase. When starting the process, you need to take into account the type of flower and its frost resistance. The most “freezing” groups are tea, hybrid species, and some climbing varieties. A number of Floribunda varieties, low-growing varieties, are more “hardened” and can withstand harsh climates in winter. But among the park representatives you can find real “walruses” who can spend the winter without shelter.

Autumn pruning of roses and shelter for the winter is perhaps one of the most important procedures that ensures harmonious development, abundant flowering with the arrival of the new season. Densely planted bushes can withstand cold weather more easily; it is more convenient to cover them all at once with one cloth. It is somewhat more difficult to wrap erect tall representatives, and climbing ones too, but in any case the work will be justified.

Shelter of a climbing bush, photo:

This is how you can cover the climbing beauty for the winter

What kind of work does preparing roses for winter include?

It’s worth thinking about this process in the summer, or rather, at the end of summer, when vigilant gardeners stop feeding the bushes with nitrogen fertilizers. Small amounts of potassium supplements will not hurt with the arrival of autumn; they will help the plant strengthen its branches and trunk before the upcoming cold weather. By this time, you should also stop loosening the soil near the tree trunk, so as not to provoke a new round of shoot growth.

Preparing rose bushes for winter involves pruning them. This will be discussed in more detail below. You should remove everything unnecessary from under the bushes: garbage, fallen leaves, remnants of grass. Cleaning is done not only to maintain cleanliness, but also to ensure that plant debris does not become a haven for harmful fungi. After this, it is recommended to spray the plants with a 1% solution Bordeaux mixture or ferrous sulfate diluted with water (3%).

Preparing roses for winter also involves hilling them - this procedure improves the aeration of the root system. Even a small 20-30 cm mound will protect the roots from the cold and help the soil retain air better.

A mound of earth at the roots - in the south this is often enough to prevent the bushes from freezing

You should think about covering the bushes already in October, towards the end of the month - when the first frosts make themselves known in your region. How to properly cover roses for the winter? It will be better if by this time the air temperature becomes relatively stable, approximately -5°C. The plant will experience a kind of “hardening”; at higher temperatures it is not worth insulating roses, since additional heat can provoke shoot growth. Moreover, earlier shelter is fraught with rotting of the root system, again, due to lack of air. To insulate the bushes, choose a dry, frosty day; the soil should not be wet (this is important!) to avoid the activation of fungi.

What is the best covering material for roses for the winter? The choice here is quite wide: thick polyethylene film, spunbond, geotextiles, lutrasil, dry leaves, burlap, cardboard, plywood, spruce branches. The variety and characteristics of the type of roses determine the method of shelter. For some representatives, insulation from coniferous spruce branches is enough, while for others you will have to mount a hut from cardboard or boards with plywood. There are many ways to insulate, let's look at the most basic, “universal” options.

Shelter with spruce branches, photo:

Cover the baby with spruce branches

How to cover roses to preserve them in winter?

Whatever the covering material, you should always leave free air space between it and the plant. Damping off is no less dangerous than freezing, and with the onset of a thaw (if the cover is too dense), the plants run the risk of being frozen or getting wet.

Air-dry shelter

This method will provide the bushes with high-quality aeration, while the temperature under the shelter will remain at approximately the same level. You will have to mount a frame (canopy) over the plant, it can be made from plywood sheets or fragments of the board, and then cover the resulting structure with a special covering material or plastic film. Covering material for roses for the winter should be secured to the ground with something heavy (bricks, stones or metal brackets). Such a “house” must be very strong, because it will have to withstand the weight of the snow masses. Its dimensions, and especially its height, must exceed the dimensions of the bush. With the onset of spring, you will be able to fold the material on one side (or lift it from below), thereby ventilating the plant.

Insulation using spruce branches

Spruce branches (coniferous branches) are an excellent natural covering material for roses for the winter, which will cost you completely free. Around the beginning of November, you should stock up on spruce branches. After harvesting and pruning bushes, the ground around the tree trunk should be covered with coniferous branches. The shoots that remain after pruning must be carefully wrapped with a wide fabric rope. If the plant has long branches, then after tying them they should be carefully bent to the ground, as far as their flexibility allows (without the threat of breaking). Secure the branches with wide metal staples (bend pieces of thick wire like a hairpin), throw spruce branches on top. The main thing is not to forget to cover the ground with spruce branches in the place where the ground part of the bush will lie. This especially applies to climbing varieties.

Fixing the climbing variety, photo:

If you have doubts, you can additionally cover the flower with non-woven material directly on top of the spruce branches, securing the ends of the cover with heavy objects. In the spring you can lift them, thereby providing the bush with proper ventilation. How to prepare low-growing roses for winter? Such bushes should first be hilled up (you can use peat) and covered generously with the same spruce branches on top. After the snow falls, a snowdrift can be formed on top of the branches

Shelter of a small bush, photo:

Use of agrofibre, spunbond, geotextiles

This material is widely used in various fields related to plants. Cover the bushes with them for the winter - perfect solution, since it allows air to pass through well, at the same time protects against frost, and prevents condensation from accumulating during a thaw. How to use this covering material for roses for the winter? Again, it is better to make a frame: metal arcs or fragments of a chain-link mesh are suitable for creating a “canopy” over the bush. The ends of such a frame are securely fixed in the soil, the covering material is folded in half (this important point!) and cover the structure. The edges of the coating are secured using the methods described above - using heavy objects or a long board (it will be convenient to lift it in the spring for ventilation).

Frame over a small bush, photo:

How to cover roses for the winter if they small size(For example, dwarf varieties)? For these purposes, you can use cardboard boxes as a frame, after making holes in them. Plastic vegetable containers or baskets that have become unusable can also be used quite successfully. Any of these structures can be covered with agrofibre on top and secured using the methods described above. To protect standard crops, you can use jute bags: cut off the bottom, put it on the plant, tie it from the bottom (where the crown begins), cover it with dry leaves or, better yet, spruce branches, tie it again, but at the top. The trunk can also be wrapped in burlap, and then re-wrapped in the resulting cocoon with lutrasil (for reliability).

Which roses do not need to be covered for the winter? Park crops have sufficient winter hardiness to do without protective coating in winter. In fact, some experts argue that the “park” classification does not exist as such, supposedly this is the definition of the most unpretentious varieties.

According to reviews on the relevant forums, these are: “Alba Mediland”, hybrid Rugosa, Spinosissima (prickly rose), winter-hardy varieties of Canadian and American roses, etc. The so-called winter hardiness scale of these flowers has three levels, which are determined by numbers: absolute winter hardiness (3- zone), winter hardiness (4th zone), average winter hardiness (4-5th zone). If you buy seedlings, there will definitely be an indicator number on the label.

Preparing roses for winter - pruning

This procedure is mandatory for most varieties. The exceptions are small-flowered climbing species, parks, groundcovers, as well as those representatives that produce color once a year. Formative spring pruning recommended for all varieties, but in this moment We are talking specifically about the autumn procedure. Pruning roses in autumn is aimed at maintaining the vitality of the plant, strengthening it, and increasing frost resistance. Proper removal of old branches contributes to the formation of healthy, strong shoots, as well as the formation of new buds in the next season.

How to prune roses in autumn? Both old bushes and new young bushes should be subjected to this procedure. Unripe shoots, blossoming flowers, weak or diseased branches must be cut out. All of the listed plant parts, if not removed, can become a source of rot, fungi, and various diseases. After autumn pruning 3 or 5 of the strongest healthy shoots should remain on the bush. All removed parts should be destroyed immediately. Old branches, stems that are already 3 years old, multiple lateral shoots, and shoots with dry bark must also be removed. Pruning is important before covering plants for the winter - a “trimmed” bush will be much more comfortable under an insulating structure.

How to properly prune roses in the fall? There are several rules that are best adhered to - for example, the cutting tool must be very sharp. A dull knife or pruning shears will leave a torn cut, injure the bark, and the damaged area can become a source of penetration of pathogenic microorganisms. Coarse old branches are best removed using a hacksaw with a new, sharp blade. The cut should be made above the bud (which has not yet had time to germinate), retreating about 1 cm from it. Pay attention to the presence of healthy wood white at the place of the cut, the cut itself should be made as if at an angle. The approximate time for pruning is the beginning of November; for this, choose a sunny, fine day.

Short crop, photo:

Before pruning roses for the winter, be sure to disinfect them. cutting tools(you can even use a solution of potassium permanganate). Lubricate the cut areas with garden varnish. And one more thing - we should not forget about “balance”; we should not get too carried away with circumcision. Ideally, the dimensions of the root system should correspond to the volumes of the remaining above-ground part after pruning! Otherwise, the plant’s nutritional system will be disrupted, it will get sick or even die. When starting the procedure, keep in mind varietal characteristics, specifics, the speed of its growth. Thus, one of the following can be applied to each individual bush: three types trimmings.

How to properly prune roses in the fall:

1. Short pruning (strong) is recommended for varieties of multi-flowered polyanthus roses, miniature species, tea and hybrid representatives. Climbing ramblers should also be pruned short with the arrival of autumn. After the procedure, only the base of the bush with a couple of dormant buds remains, all shoots and branches are removed.
2. Medium pruning (moderate) is aimed at activating the growth of fresh shoots with the arrival of spring. With this method of pruning, plant branches are shortened by 1.2 parts of their length. Weak stems are removed completely, and short shoots (about 30 cm) with four or five buds are left at the base of the bush. This procedure is suitable for many medium-sized varieties, hybrid teas, and also for Pernepian roses.
3. Long pruning (weak) allows you to leave tall branches on the bushes, shortened by about two-thirds of the original length (only the upper segment is removed). Approximately 8-9 buds are left on each shoot. This pruning method is recommended for tall hybrid-tea species, antique English roses, individual species, and delicate Bengal representatives. This procedure helps early flowering, however, when carried out regularly, roses begin to lose their shape, the buds become smaller, and the number of flowers decreases.

Should roses be pruned for winter? climbing varieties? Since this category of plants is a favorite of many summer gardeners, they are worth mentioning separately. Shortening the shoots of climbing varieties should be approached individually, taking into account the characteristics of their species subgroup.

They need to be pruned very carefully, moderately, choosing the longest branches. As for dry, weakened, diseased or damaged shoots, as well as remaining flowers or fruits, all of them must be radically removed. Please note that active shortening of branches in climbing representatives leads to the growth of multiple “empty” (non-flowering) shoots.

Now you will know how to prune roses correctly for the winter. To summarize, it is worth clarifying that in Middle lane For Russia, it is better to carry out this procedure from about the 20th of November. If there haven't been any frosts yet, don't even think about pruning, because otherwise buds will begin to sprout on the bushes. When frost comes, then get down to business. Do not forget about removing young green stems that have not yet covered with bark. At the first frost they will die, and with the onset of warmth they will begin to rot, spreading bacteria and fungi in the insulating cocoon. Put on a rough gardening glove and be sure to remove all the foliage from the branches - this will make it easier for the bush to “breathe.”

It is not so important what kind of variety grows on your site. The specifics of preparing this crop for winter are the same for all types: cleaning the soil from plant residues and debris, hilling (covering) the root collar, covering the ground trunk circle foliage or spruce branches, laying the plant on the ground. You now know how to preserve roses in the garden in winter and how to cover them. Lapnik, lutrasil or spunbond, durable polyethylene will not allow this delicate crop to freeze when frost arrives. Sheltering and pruning roses for the winter is an important agrotechnical measure on which their health and beauty depend.

It wouldn’t hurt to watch the so-called visual aid - how to prune roses in the fall, video:

To make it easier to cover the rose, bend the branches and secure them with stones

Any gardener takes care of every rose bush growing in his garden. But it is especially important for our climate to properly cover roses from winter frosts. This task will not always be easy, since everyone climate region has its own characteristics; winter often brings temperature changes and is not always rich in snowfalls. When covering roses for the winter, you need to anticipate any weather surprises.

When do you cover a rose for the winter?

Roses grown in most of Russia must be covered for the winter. But exact time when the rose needs to be completely closed from cold air cannot be indicated. This plant tolerates light frosts well, but excessive overheating can cause the death of the bush. It is recommended to completely cover the rose bush immediately when light frosts set in (about 5°C).

If you do not have the ability to constantly monitor temperature changes, sheltering can be done in stages. First, the root system is dug in with soil, the bush can be covered with a thin cloth, and the rose can be covered more thoroughly later.

The initial stage of preparing a rose for wintering is a gradual transition to a state of rest

In order for the plant to better prepare for the dormant period, it is necessary to stop performing those actions that stimulate it to grow:

• Under no circumstances should fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers be allowed, as they promote the growth of green mass; you can feed with potassium and phosphorus fertilizers or their natural equivalents (wood ash);
• remove weeds around the rose bush, but do not cultivate the soil, as this also pushes the plant to develop;
• Gradually reduce watering large quantities precipitation, you can make drainage grooves or even a canopy.

Such work in warm temperate climates is carried out from the beginning of September, in regions with more short summer- from mid-August.

Second stage: protecting the rose from the development of diseases under the covering material

Any rose shelter design cannot completely guarantee the absence of at least slight overheating. A elevated temperature and humidity promotes the development of fungal diseases. Therefore, it is necessary to take care of prevention:

• the source of infection is leaves, especially the lower ones; they must be carefully cut; For roses with long branches, removal of leaves is carried out in several stages, starting from the lower ones;
• young shoots must be removed, since they will not be able to survive the winter, and if they die, they will become a source of infection;
• the bush and the ground around it are sprayed with a fungicide: Bordeaux mixture or a three percent solution of copper sulfate.

Pruning of leaves and spraying is carried out before hilling the rose bush for the winter, when the first frosts have just begun.

Covering the root system with soil and pruning the rose bush

Hilling up roses before wintering is mandatory in all regions. The simplest and most effective material for this is ordinary soil. But it’s better if you don’t rake the bush, but bring it from the garden. The mound around the plant should be at least thirty centimeters from the grafting site. The top of the soil can be covered with spruce branches.

The use of sawdust or humus when hilling is not advisable, as this can cause overheating of the root system during thaws.

Before hilling, you need to trim the branches. How long to cut them depends on the type of rose and the height of your shelter:

• hybrid tea roses are pruned so that after hilling 10–15 centimeters of trunks are visible above the mound of earth; in these species, buds form on young shoots, so it is enough to keep the old trunks at the base of the bush healthy;
• in climbing roses, buds appear only on old (two-year and older) shoots, so it is important to leave the branches as long as possible and they must be covered, so pruning depends on how you make the cover, but even with very long branches it is not recommended to remove more than third part of the trunk;
• branches of standard roses are pruned only for the purpose of forming a crown; the entire bush, trunk and crown must be covered;
• park roses are considered frost-resistant and are usually not covered.

After pruning, it is better to treat sections of branches with Rannet or a special varnish-balm.

At the same time as pruning, long branches are bent to the ground, the branches are tied and lowered onto a support or insulating material between them and the soil: the same spruce branches, wooden boards.

After bending the branches of a climbing rose, a frame is installed above it

Although I am not an outstanding gardener, I have been growing rose bushes for more than twenty years. And I can say from my own experience that simple hilling of hybrid tea roses in our region (Bryansk region) even without covering with spruce branches completely ensures the preservation of the bushes. But without such hilling, the rose freezes. In recent years, I have not trimmed rose branches: what is covered with earth will not freeze, the upper part dies in severe frosts, and if the winter is warm, it will remain green. In spring, you just need to remove all the blackened parts of the bush.

Organization of winter shelter for roses

The main protection of a plant from frost is air bag, which forms between the coating and the stem, so for your work to be effective, the following conditions must be met:

1. The branches must not touch the fabric covering.
2. The fabric material must be dense, at least 200 g/m²; in cold regions, several layers must be used.
3. Do not allow the fabric to get wet, otherwise it will freeze; can be used as protection against water wooden boards or other available material: plastic film or polycarbonate, but in this case it is necessary to provide vents.
4. In regions with a guaranteed large snow cover, it is enough to bend the branches and cover them with thin material.

Photo gallery: how to make a shelter for roses

Wooden shields will be a strong support for the fabric covering. A frame made of snowmelt or propylene pipes can be of a wide variety of shapes, but it is better if the entire rose garden is under one shelter. The polycarbonate shelter has good thermal insulation properties and also quite rigid, you must not forget about its mandatory ventilation. You can not remove the climbing roses from the supporting supports, but then you need to make a shelter around them using spruce branches and a fabric covering Standard roses you can bend it to the ground, but it’s better to make a vertical shelter

Video: how to properly cover roses for the winter

Despite the complexity of performing all the work on proper preparation rosary for winter, every gardener carefully performs them, because only in this case next year will delight him with the blooming of roses.

Rose bloom is a real delight for a gardener. You can endlessly admire the intricate curves of pink petals and their shades, inhaling the delicate aroma of roses. But an experienced owner of a beautiful flower knows: in order to guarantee this pleasure for several years, the noble and sensitive plant must be properly cared for. With the onset of autumn it is required Special attention. Preparing for winter in caring for roses is a crucial moment for the gardener. The growth and development of the flower next year depends on the correct provision of wintering conditions. When preparing roses for winter, two points are important: first, how to prune roses for the winter and second, how to cover roses for the winter. First things first.

To ensure that your favorite roses endure harsh conditions well and low temperatures, plants should be prepared for winter in advance.

The main autumn types of work on caring for and preparing roses for winter:

1. The plant is gradually reduced, and in the second half of August watering is stopped.
2. Roses are delicate flowers. Their young shoots are not able to maintain viability, so it is necessary to “help” the plant to stop the appearance of new shoots and begin the process of lignification of the main shoots. To do this, from the last week of August we adjust the feeding. We make sure that nitrogen is not present in the fertilizers used, and, on the contrary, we give preference to potassium and phosphorus during this period.
3. At the same time, we admire the roses only in the flowerbed; we do not allow them to be cut. It is necessary for the plant to complete the growing season, from budding to drying. Do not rush to remove faded buds! The ripening of seeds after flowering is a signal for the rose: winter is approaching, the flowering of this season is over.
4. Removing foliage is another one. required element, which includes preparing roses in the fall for winter. Roses are not deciduous plants, so the gardener removes the leaves. Whether you carefully pluck the foliage or carefully cut the leaves, it doesn’t matter, either method is allowed. The main thing is not to leave foliage on the plant, which can lead to an infectious disease.
5. Continuing prevention, the bushes and soil are treated. Any fungicide can be used for the plant; you can also use a solution of iron sulfate. Thoroughly clean the soil under the rose bush, leaving no weeds or fallen leaves. After this, the soil can also be treated with a fungicide.

Carrying out pruning

Preparing roses for winter: pruning

An important stage in preparing rose bushes for winter is pruning roses in the fall. The few shoots left after pruning are easier to transfer cold winter than a whole bush. Plants that were left to overwinter entirely were subsequently weakened and often susceptible to disease. It should be carried out in compliance with certain rules so as not to harm the flower.

The optimal time for pruning is the third ten days of October. It is advisable to carry out the procedure in dry, sunny and windless weather.

Prepare tools in advance: sharpen pruning shears and a hacksaw, which is used for the thickest shoots.

After carefully examining the bush, you must be sure to trim off all the upper parts, which may be susceptible to bacterial diseases. If there are small unopened buds on the plant, they are also pruned, like diseased branches.

It is necessary to cut out young stems that are not woody. It is these shoots, if left, that can rot and then infect the entire bush with fungal diseases.

So, the strongest, most powerful and well-developed shoots are left for the winter. It is enough to leave 3 to 5 shoots for the winter, trying to ensure that they are evenly spaced.

Video “Pruning and covering roses for the winter”

Rules for pruning roses for the winter

Inexperienced flower growers often ask the question, how to prune roses for the winter? Experts distinguish the following types of rose pruning for the winter:

• Short.

For polyantha (multi-flowered, forming a strong bush) roses, short pruning is used. The shoots are removed almost completely, leaving only the base for the winter (2-3 cm from each shoot). At the same time, make sure that dormant rose buds also remain (2-3 per bush).

• Average

For hybrid tea roses, medium or moderate pruning is used. Weak shoots are removed completely. The height of the woody shoots left is 25-30 cm, the number of dormant buds on them is 4-5.

• Long

When preparing park, English and Bengal roses for winter, long or gentle pruning is performed. The same type is also suitable for tall hybrid tea rose. In this case, only a third of the stem is removed, leaving 8 to 10 buds on the remaining part.
Regardless of the method, when pruning, an oblique cut is made over a bud that has swollen but not sprouted. The distance between such a bud and the cut site is from 0.5 to 1 cm.
Pruning is completed by processing the shoots left for the winter. To do this, use any available disinfectant. After processing, the rose bushes are hilled and the next stage of preparation is moved on - covering the roses.

Covering roses for the winter

How to cover roses for the winter

In order for roses in the garden to feel comfortable in winter, survive the winter safely and withstand the winter cold, they need to be covered. Roses are covered when cool weather finally sets in, and during the week the temperature does not rise above +5°. The rose can also tolerate light frosts.
Let's look at how to preserve roses in winter. You can cover roses in different ways.

Prikopka

Having chosen this method, first of all, soil is used to cover the roses. The bush first buries to a height of 20 to 40 cm. Some gardeners completely bury the entire bush. But after the first layer of cover - hilling - you can use dry leaves, wood shavings or sawdust, as well as spruce branches. They cover the upper parts of the shoots, which, after hilling, are above the ground.

Air (dry) shelter

With this method, the roots of the plant are also insulated with a layer of foliage or pine needles. And a bush pruned for the winter is preserved using a specially constructed structure, a kind of frame or a protective dome. Its purpose is to protect the rose from wind and frost by creating a suitable air environment inside.

A frame structure is installed above each bush at a height of up to 0.5 m. You can also build a frame over the entire flowerbed or rose garden.

In practice, the most different types frame structures: pyramidal, spherical, cubic. For the frame, you can use metal rods or arcs used in garden beds.

Having built the frame, you need to attach insulation material to it. Suitable material Can be kraft paper, burlap followed by a layer of film. In recent years, gardeners are increasingly using non-woven fabric as insulation and remain happy with the results its application. the main task- carefully and securely fasten the insulation so that during windy weather and precipitation the structure protects the rose from rain and snow.

Wrap

Tall roses can be covered differently for the winter by wrapping each plant in non-woven fabric - lutrasil. In this case, a metal rod will also be needed. It will serve as a support for the stem. Wrapping begins with hilling the roots. Then the rose shoots are wrapped with insulation and secured properly, securing the cocoon from below to prevent access to cold air.

Video “How to cover roses for the winter”

Features of covering roses of different types

Experienced gardeners have developed rules on how to cover for the winter. Using their tips will help prepare your roses for winter.

climbing rose

Climbing roses do not have their stems trimmed. Sheltering a climbing rose for the winter requires only pinching out healthy shoots before wintering, and only diseased shoots are cut out. Long rose lashes require careful handling. In preparation for winter, the shoots of climbing roses are sprinkled with earth. But before the lashes end up on the ground, you need to prepare a place for them. To do this, layers of sand and spruce branches are poured onto the ground. The lashes removed from the support are carefully placed on the prepared “pillow”, and then the spruce branches are used again to cover the rose. The procedure is completed with a film, which is fixed over the spruce branches.

You can make a tourniquet from the lashes, which is placed on a prepared wire frame. A protective canopy made of wood or lutrasil is placed on top, and then also covered with film.

Park rose

Many varieties of park roses are frost-resistant, so they do not require special wrapping. However, young bushes of park roses need to be covered for the winter. Park rose shelter for the winter is carried out in case of unfavorable weather forecasts and the expectation of abnormal frosts.
The most suitable thing for park roses is digging or dry shelter.

Hybrid tea rose

Hybrid tea rose will tolerate low temperatures well in winter standard methods preparation for the cold season. Standard hilling or frame structure will help the rose bush survive the winter. The use of spruce branches increases the level of comfort for hybrid tea roses in winter.

Video “Winter shelter for climbing roses”

Where you grow matters

Rose has her fans in every corner of our country. In this case, the location of the flower does not matter. But when preparing for winter, the region where the rose grows cannot be ignored. Different climatic and natural conditions, different terms the onset of cold weather makes adjustments to the standard procedures for preparing plants for winter.

• Sheltering roses for the winter in the Moscow region is usually done at the end of October.

Other dates are possible, the main thing is the onset of stable temperatures within a week (+5-7°).

• But sheltering roses for the winter in the Urals is carried out in September, since a decrease in air temperature occurs earlier in the region.

Ural winters are more severe, so roses require a multi-layer cover that will help protect the plant during severe frosts. However, with the onset of thaws, such a “blanket” can lead to the accumulation of moisture and rotting of the plant. The following method of preparing roses for winter in the Urals helps to avoid this. Shoots prepared for wintering and hilled up are carefully bent so that they accept arched shape. Cover the top with spruce branches, leaves, cut raspberry shoots, etc. The resulting natural greenhouse is covered on top using tarpaulin, roofing felt, synthetic materials. The ends are left slightly open, allowing ventilation inside the shelter.

Separately growing roses can be preserved by constructing a special box from cardboard boxes. Around the trenched bush, cardboard walls about 50 cm high are made from boxes, so that the embedded shoots do not rise above the cardboard walls. Cover the roots of the rose and the empty space in the box around the bush with dry foliage, pine needles, straw, shavings, sawdust, and cover with spruce branches. A frame with lutrasil is installed on top of the box with the rose. This structure helps preserve roses in the Ural winter.

Having become familiar with the rules for preparing roses for winter, you will be able to create for the plant comfortable conditions. This means you will enjoy it again next summer. beautiful color and the delicate aroma of your favorite flower.