Winter-hardy varieties of apple trees for the Urals and Siberia. Caring for a creeping apple tree Three forms of slate crowns of fruit trees

In Siberia, northern Kazakhstan, the Urals, the Far East and the northeast of the European part of the RSFSR, where frosts often reach - 40...- 45 degrees C, large-fruited varieties of apple trees and other species are cultivated in the form of small, squat forms. In this case, the trees overwinter under the snow, and in areas with little snow they can be covered for the winter with soil or other heat-insulating material (tops, spruce branches, straw).

In creeping culture, mainly Central Russian and Michurin varieties of apple trees are grown (Anis striped, Antonovka vulgaris, Borovinka, Grushovka Moskovskaya, Pepin saffron). It is possible to use stone fruits for this purpose - cherries, plums, and partly cherries. The latter can be cultivated in middle lane Russia, in areas with fairly stable snow cover. At the Siberian Horticulture Research Institute named after M.A. Lisavenko, good results were obtained when cultivating low-growing plum-cherry hybrids Miner and Beta in this form. In Central Asia, a close-to-creeping plant of subtropical rocks (pomegranate and fig) is known.

In creeping gardens, trees form in the form of stanlets (Fig. 42), which have a low trunk (20-25 cm) and horizontally located skeletal branches (shoulders). The crown is low - 0.6 -1 m. Plants develop in the ground layer, where they are better provided with heat and carbon dioxide, suffer less from the harmful effects of wind, and in the spring from bark burns. Under these conditions, they finish the growing season in a timely manner and are well prepared for overwintering.

Arctic (Krasnoyarsk) slate- the most common creeping form in our country. Consists of five to six arms, evenly diverging from the center of the tree. Four to five second-order branches are formed on each shoulder at a distance of 30-40 cm.

During the formation period, all branches leading to the removal of the shoulders and lateral skeletal branches are pinned with low pegs in July. The shoots that thicken the crown are pinched and formed into short overgrowing wood, which protects the main branches from sunburn.

melon stlanets(according to A.D. Knzyurin) consists of one or two arms, on which second-order branches are placed in a fan-shaped manner. Suitable for areas with little snow, as it is easier to cover with soil than Arctic shale.

In Siberian conditions, large-fruited apple tree varieties in dense plantings (6X3-4 m) can be formed according to the slate system developed by P. S. Gelfandbein called boat. It consists of two shoulders located along the row (to the left and to the right of the center of the crown). Second-order branches are directed at right angles towards the row spacing. They need to be raised a little to make it easier to cultivate the soil in the tree trunk strips. The lateral branches have peculiar axes: horizontal at the base, and gradually taking on a vertical position towards the end. This makes it easier to fold them over to cover them for the winter.

Of other creeping forms known flat spindle, Altai star (Altai kalach), Krasnoyarsk double-shouldered slate, flat-widened horizontal cordon, Minusinsk semi-slate. They are distributed to a limited extent, and the latter form is used mainly for growing semi-crops.

Although creeping crowns are structurally simple, vigorously growing trees are not easy to grow in the form of stylates. Caring for fruit-bearing plants is also labor-intensive. Therefore, Siberian fruit growers are studying the possibility of using winter-hardy dwarf rootstocks selected by V.I. Budagovsky (Budagovsky’s paradise, No. 257, etc.) for the stanza crop. root system which tolerate soil freezing down to -14...-16 °C. In areas where the snow cover is quite thick, damage to such low-growing plants is unlikely. Natural stans bred by Soviet breeders are also promising for creeping gardens. For example, S.I. Isaev selected two elite apple tree seedlings (A-21-47 and A-22-22), which form a squat, slate-like crown without human intervention. They produce large fruits with good taste.

The crowns are formed by shortening by 1/3-1/4 increments longer than 50 cm. The crown, as a rule, is not thinned out. Excess shoots are pinched and turned into short overgrowing wood. To weaken growth processes, it is possible to use retardants.

In regions with harsh climates, it is difficult to obtain an apple harvest. At a temperature of -40 0 C and below, the kidneys are damaged, short summer does not allow the apple tree to form, the yield decreases. How can you grow a crop in Siberian conditions and Far East? Do you really have to give up the idea? Let's try to figure it out.

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Remember how shrubs overwinter: they are bent to the ground and covered with snow. In this way, for example, raspberries are stored in northern regions Russia. Ordinary tree Of course, it’s impossible to prepare for the winter like that. In the mid-20th century, European gardeners began experimenting with dwarf trees, planted under acute angle in relation to the surface of the earth.

It turned out that such agricultural technology makes it possible to preserve most of the trees in winter. But the dense crown and position of the apple trees create favorable conditions for the development of diseases, including scab. In addition, caring for the tree becomes more difficult.

In 1991, Russian scientists under the leadership of M.V. Kachalkin applied a technique for growing columnar apple trees in a slate form. This culture is distinguished by the absence of lateral branches, the buds are 90% flowering, which makes cultivation using the described method promising. The first experiments yielded encouraging results: the apple trees, despite serious damage from mice, overwintered safely and produced their first harvest the following year. Subsequently, work was carried out to improve agricultural technology:

• selected optimal angle planting;
• methods of protection against rodents have been developed;
• recommendations for fertilizing have been prepared;
• planting schemes have been tested.

The results of the experiment in stlantse culture were published in 1997. Subsequently, amateur gardeners used the method and made their own suggestions.

Seedlings for growing using the slate method must be well developed, free from wood damage and signs of disease. Suitable rootstock is M-9 or B-9. As for varieties, over 30 names have been tested and the following are recommended:

The most convenient is the two-line planting pattern. The distance between seedlings is 0.8-1 meter. Row spacing is 1 meter. This arrangement allows you to save space and get a harvest from small area. The tree crowns are not thickened, which reduces the risk of diseases. It makes it easier to care for columnar apple trees in the slate culture and subsequent harvesting.

Features of caring for stale crops in the spring-summer period

In general, agricultural technology is the same as for growing columnar apple trees traditional way. The same diseases and treatment methods, the same watering requirements. Therefore, in this article we will talk about the nuances.

Planting of seedlings is carried out in early spring. The planting holes are prepared in the same way as for ordinary apple trees, but for the stale form, plant the seedlings at an angle of 30 0 to the surface of the earth. The amount of fertilizer used during planting is 1/5 of the usual norm.

The yield depends on how well the leaves are formed. Therefore, already 2 weeks after planting, apply urea fertilizing. Fertilizer rate – 20 g/10 l. Three-time feeding, interval between applications nutrients- 2 weeks. You can improve the result foliar feeding(by spraying). Use urea, but in a dose of 5-10 g/10 liters of water.

If you did everything correctly and the seedlings took root -

Already in the first month after planting, a continuation shoot actively develops. At the same time, it begins to grow upward, which is unacceptable for the stale culture. To correct the situation, you need to change the direction of growth of the upper part of the tree. To do this, use supports placed under the top of the seedling. Starting in August, growth slows down and the support can be removed.

Another problem in the formation of the stale culture is the appearance of a shoot at the base of the tree. This usually happens in the second or third year after planting, but it can happen earlier. Solving the problem is simple, the main thing is not to miss the moment: while the shoot is green, cut it out without leaving a stump.

1. At a height of 10-15 cm from the surface of the ground, remove all leaves and buds. If they are already on the seedling, do this 14 days after planting.
2. 45 days after planting, stop fertilizing and limit watering. By doing this, you will limit the excessive development of culture and thereby facilitate further care.
3. If you use early ripening varieties, flowering and ovaries will occur in the first year. Leave one ovary, remove the rest, so that the tree does not waste energy on fruiting, but becomes stronger.
4. In the dry season, increase watering.
5. Arrange the rows in the direction from south to north: this will provide the trees with the best sunlight.

If summers in your region are short and cold, use film shelter on the arcs. The shale culture makes it easy to use this method. Don't overlook pollination though. Bees will not get under the film, so use a brush to transfer pollen from one variety to another. Suitable varieties: Siberian and ranetka apple trees.

Columnar apple trees in the stanza culture can also be grown in trenches 30-50 cm deep. This method allows you to make a shelter of glass or lutrasil along the top. The location of the trenches, as with a traditional landing, is from south to north.

Features of caring for stale crops in the autumn-winter period

First of all, do not forget to remove the cover in September if you have used it. In order for a columnar apple tree to prepare for winter and survive it safely, it needs straight Sun rays.

A month before the onset of frost, bend the trees to the ground, use wire pins to secure them, or simply tie the top to driven pegs. At this stage it is important not to overdo it; a tilt angle of 10 degrees is quite sufficient. With excessive force, the trunks break and all the work is wasted.

Conditions necessary for wintering columnar apple trees:

1. If the tree did not have time to shed its leaves before the onset of frost, they must be removed manually. Ignoring this point is unacceptable: the plant will die over the winter.
2. Keep in mind that temperatures below -30 0 C are detrimental to flower buds, so ensure required amount insulating material. Use spruce branches, sawdust, shavings.
3. Additionally, cover columnar apple trees in the slate culture with roofing felt or old plastic film. This is especially true if there is little snow in your region in winter.
4. To protect against mice and other rodents, fence the perimeter of the beds with tin or other strong material. You can tie the trunks and branches with nylon stockings, avoiding “bare” places. But in this case, make sure that there are no leaves left on the crop.

Remember that an increase in temperature is just as dangerous for columnar apple trees in the stylata culture as a decrease. During prolonged thaws, remove some of the snow or covering material.

Conclusion

Is it even worth growing columnar apple trees in the stale culture? There is a lot of hassle, but is it any good? In the process of studying this method, scientists found that a plantation measuring 6x1.5 meters can produce up to 100 kg of harvest. Multiply this value by the possible size of your plot. Impressive, isn't it?

Growing fruit trees stale form quite accessible in gardens of the non-chernozem zone, up to northern latitudes. Along with zoned species and varieties fruit plants, you can grow cherries, cherry plums, plums, apricots and many other plants that are characterized by low winter hardiness. The low height of the trees makes tree care easier.

When involving children in harvesting stlantsevo garden, no need for stepladders or ladders.

Woody forms cultivated in the form of stanza throughout growing season are in more favorable microclimatic conditions compared to standard trees, since in the ground layer the spring-summer temperature and air humidity parameters are slightly higher. Here the wind speed is lower, therefore, damage to branches, flowers, and fruit formations is eliminated.

Increased concentration carbon dioxide promotes an increase in photosynthetic products. Slates of most varieties fruit crops that produce high-quality fruits begin to bear fruit earlier and more abundantly.

Say what you will, but at the dacha, the first priority is for each of us to build a permanent toilet or a mobile latrine. The magazindacha project recommends that summer residents order toilet cabins and dry closets from manufacturers at a low cost. The products have a 3-year warranty. This necessary device will help you stay on for as long as possible. summer cottage and not think about the natural needs of the human body.

Planting slate-shaped trees

Growing fruit crops in stale form with a certain skill does not present any particular difficulties. On processed and well seasoned organic fertilizers The soil is prepared in advance with planting holes of the same size as for planting standard trees. In early spring Before sap flow begins and buds open, one-year-old seedlings are planted so that the grafting site is on the north side and the thorn cutting site is on the south. When planting, you must adhere to the following distances between trees: apple, pear - 3-4, cherry, plum and other stone fruits - 2-3 m. You should also pay attention to the evenness of the rows.

Often widely distributed the best varieties fruit trees are hampered by their lack of winter hardiness. At the same time, in some places of the Non-Black Earth Region, especially in the southern and central regions of this zone, spring - summer temperatures and other climatic factors throughout the growing season do not interfere with their culture. In such conditions it is advisable and quite possible to grow insufficiently winter-hardy species and varieties of fruit trees in an artificially created, standardless, slate form, in which the branches of the crown are located near the soil surface. This makes it possible to cover the shoots for the winter.

Under shelter the temperature is significantly higher than the temperature environment. For example, if outside temperature- 40 below zero, then under a snow layer 15-20 cm thick at this time it will be 20-25 below zero. At this temperature, the branches of the crown do not freeze.

By growing apple trees in slate form, you can get high yields fruits up to 200 kg from one 12-15 year old tree in many areas of Eastern and western Siberia, Altai, Middle and Northern Urals.

Formation of the crown of lanceolate trees

A fruit tree can be given a squat, or rather stale, crown shape with shoots growing obliquely in 3-4 years. After the planted trees take root, and a sign of this is the appearance of new shoots, they are carefully bent down.

The branches need to be bent at a height of 10-15 cm to the south at an angle of 30-50 degrees to the soil surface. Then they need to be secured with wooden or wire hooks. In subsequent years, all growing shoots are also bent at an angle of 30–50 in the direction of their growth.

On initial stages To form the crown of trees, it is necessary to leave no more than five shoots of the first order, which should be arranged radially. By radial branching we mean the presence equal angles discrepancies between branches.

Shoots of the second and subsequent orders are bent at the same angle, positioning them freely. The location of the shoots at the specified angle to the surface will not interfere with the cultivation of the soil under the crown.

In the fall, before frost, the branches are bent even closer to the surface of the soil, securing them in bent state hooks. Against mouse-like rodents, which often severely damage shoots covered trees, poisoned baits are placed under the crown. After a snowfall, but before the onset of severe frosts, the branches are covered with a layer of snow of 15–20 cm.

During winter period it is necessary to regularly check and, if necessary, restore the thickness of the snow cover. In snowless winters, the shoots are covered with straw, matting, spruce branches or synthetic covering material.

In the spring, after the snow has melted, tree branches should be whitened with lime. This will protect them from sunburn.

Pruning slate-shaped trees

Competent and timely pruning of branches is of great importance in growing slate fruit trees. It allows you to create a healthy and compact shape, increases the number of branches bearing fruit formations, promotes the correct distribution of shoots within the crown.

In young trees that have not yet reached 6 years of age, the tips of the shoots are pinched when they reach a length of 40-50 cm, or the branches are cut off if pinching has not been done. In autumn, after leaf fall or in spring, before buds bloom, excessively leafy and crossing branches should be cut out.

They also remove the weakest branches that can break off due to slight wind or rain. You should strive to ensure that each skeletal branch is located freely in space, without thickening the crown or shading other shoots. In subsequent years, pruning is reduced to removing damaged, diseased, and dried out branches.

Trees older than 10-15 years need more severe pruning. In these cases, every 4-5 years one of the first-order skeletal branches is removed, leaving a small stump. A new shoot grows from a dormant hemp bud. Cutting areas of branches exceeding 1 cm in diameter should be immediately covered with garden varnish or natural drying oil paint. This periodic pruning of branches makes it possible to maintain long period time, the active state of the plant and contributes to the uniform formation of fruits throughout the crown.

Many gardeners believe that creeping apple trees take up a lot of space.

For this reason, they prefer to plant upright growing trees.

But the advantage of stlanes is their resistance to cold climate conditions.

This is a tree (slate), the crown of which has a creeping, squat shape. Its branches do not grow upward. Home distinctive feature slate is its flexible elastic trunk.

There are good varieties of apple trees with a natural creeping crown. Some of them:

Melba – Canadian variety apple trees. The ripening period is summer, with the fruits fully ripening in August. They are medium in size, weighing up to 100 grams. Shade – white with red. Shelf life is about one month.

The apple tree has an average yield rate. It begins to bear fruit after 3–4 years. It is easy to shape, but tends to thicken and requires thinning of shoots. Affected by scab.

Borovinka - Russian variety of apple tree. The ripening period is autumn, with full ripening of the fruits in early September.

The apples are large, the weight of one reaches 200 grams. It has a light yellow or greenish color. Shelf life 2 months.

The variety has good plasticity, high yield and resistance to scab.

Some gardeners independently form a crown along the surface of the soil, cut and bend branches to it.

To create stlanza, any variety of apple tree is used. But it is better if the tree bears large fruits, the taste of which is quite high.

On plate shaped, 3-4 humeral processes are located.

To create a squat crown position, the following condition must be met. It is necessary to timely transfer the growth of the tree growing upward to a horizontal position.

Formation of a two-armed slate.

An adult apple tree can have any shape created by pruning. Flat plate is the most common crown shape.

At the size and configuration of the site are taken into account and her landings.

Caring for a creeping apple tree

The stlanets needs a certain especially in the fall. At this time, it is necessary to insulate the crown. By pressing the branches with young shoots to the ground with special poles, they are secured with metal hooks.

Reed mats, vegetable tops, and spruce spruce branches are used to cover the crown. This will help her survive severe frosts.

To protect the root collar of a young apple tree from freezing, its trunk is covered with earth 8 - 10 cm in height. In winter they add protective layer snow.

Otherwise, all aspects of how to care for creeping apple tree, correspond to the care of ordinary apple trees.

Watch the video on how to properly prepare fruit trees for winter:

How to save a frozen apple tree

Having noticed that the slate apple tree had suffered from severe frosts, urgent measures must be taken.

Depressed state after spring blossoming, small whitish leaves due to lack of moisture are the main signs of freezing. – necessary measure to save a tree. And as a result, new wood will quickly grow and its functions will be restored.

According to experienced gardeners, young shoots contribute to the formation of a healthy vascular system.

Thanks to them, the entire tree will be rejuvenated and metabolism will be normalized.

held in early spring. In order not to aggravate the situation, it can be carried out in last days spring and first days of summer. Warmth will promote rapid healing of wounds.

Dead branches are completely removed. Shortening of living branches is done with the aim of causing strong growth.

Using garden varnish, cover the cut areas. Oil paint, red lead or ocher are used to paint large saw cuts.

Attention! A damaged tree needs intensive care. It needs regular watering and feeding. Mulching the tree trunks will retain moisture in the soil.

Whitewash

In autumn the apple tree needs thorough whitewashing of the trunk and the main branches branching from it.

To prepare the solution, use lime, clay (in small quantities), and paste for better adhesion. You can use fresh mullein for this purpose.

During whitewashing, the solution is applied to both the trunk and the skeletal branches. The close proximity of all parts of the tree to the ground cover creates an excellent habitat for diseases and pests. This could be a trunk, a standard, branches.

Procedure provides protection not only from the sun, but also from various pests. With its help you can get rid of insect eggs and pupae.

Rodent protection

To protect a creeping apple tree from rodents, winter time use different methods:

• Adding creosote to the whitewash mixture, both as a deterrent and as a disinfectant.
• Shelter with spruce branches.
• Laying down plastic bottles with poisonous bait under the trunk of an apple tree.
• Using special nets for shelter.
• Tying herbs to the branches (mint, wild rosemary, elderberry).

Using at least one of the methods, you can save the bark and roots of the apple tree from garden pests.

Watch the video advice on how to protect an apple tree from rodents:

Weed control

During the growing season (spring and summer), the soil should be kept in a state of black steam.

By digging and loosening, it will be clean and free of weeds. Mulching is very useful. Mown grass or sawdust is spread between the rows of creeping apple trees. This helps retain moisture and improves soil microflora.

Weed control must be carried out carefully. If they grow through the crown of a tree, its vital functions will deteriorate (photosynthesis of leaves, laying and development of fruit buds).

The main processing in the form of deep digging is carried out in the fall.

Watering

IMPORTANT! For Slants, careful attention is required. During this procedure, it is necessary to raise the tree branches to a height of 20 - 30 cm with the help of supports. They should not touch the ground.

Late August and early September watering must be limited to create conditions conducive to wood ripening.

Feeding the elks

To increase the efficiency of fruiting, the apple tree needs fertilizing. For the Elks, as for other species, it is the same.

The application rate depends on the age of the tree and the occupied area.

Soil condition affects right choice feeding.

To reduce acidity levels fluff lime is added to the soil and dolomite flour. The use of chalk, ash, old plaster will also improve his condition.

To increase acidity sawdust and peat are used.

In the spring, fertilizers containing nitrogen are applied by root feeding. To the zone trunk circle you need to add one of the fertilizers: urea, ammonium nitrate, nitroammophoska, humus. They are introduced during digging.

When did flowering begin?, apple trees are fed with liquid solutions. Used as fertilizer chicken droppings, slurry, a mixture of potassium sulfate and superphosphate and urea.

Dissolve the required component in water and apply it under the tree. If the weather is dry, fertilizer is applied liquid state. When it rains, it is scattered dry.

After flowering a creeping apple tree can be fed with a mixture of nitrophoska and sodium humanate diluted in water. Can be cooked green manure by soaking green grass clippings in water.

Root feeding is sometimes replaced by foliar feeding. At the same time, the trees are sprayed with urea. Through the leaves the apple tree receives necessary elements for development.

It will not be superfluous for the garden. It is necessary to add substances containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium several times every 10 to 14 days.

Conducted with substances containing potassium and phosphorus. It is not recommended to apply nitrogen fertilizers; the wood may not ripen.

WORTH CONSIDERING! Minerals are especially important for apple trees before winter cold. They will increase their winter hardiness.

Growing stanza in Siberian conditions

Growing apple trees in the conditions of Siberia, where there are severe winter colds, is quite difficult. Only slate is suitable for such climatic conditions.

Its crown should be as close to the ground as possible. This will allow you to cover it with snow, which will protect you from the harsh Siberian frosts.

Insulation of the root system of the slate apple tree.

Caring for them has a number of differences. In autumn, the loose bark is removed from the trunk, whitened or wrapped in a light-colored cloth.

Particular attention should be paid to the roots. Fallen leaves, spoiled fruits and other debris under trees must be removed. To feed and insulate the roots, you need to cover the soil in the root zone with a layer of humus.

Important! The branches of the stanzas bend towards the soil and are secured with iron hooks. To protect trees from rodents, the branches that form the skeleton should be wrapped with dense synthetic fabric.

When there is enough snow the crown of the apple tree takes cover. Having covered it with snow, additionally insulate it with burlap. Compact the edges with snow to prevent rodents from getting inside.

It is not recommended to cover the tree until snow has fallen. Mice can set up a home and destroy a tree.

Slates must be insulated and prepared for winter until severe frosts set in. This will prevent them from freezing.

In this region, creeping apple trees must be provided with proper care, taking into account all natural factors.

Causes of creeping apple tree infertility

When buying a seedling, you should ask when it will begin to bear fruit. An early fruiting apple tree variety begins bring the fruits 4 years after planting, and a late-fruiting variety – after 8 years. Once you purchase such a tree, you will have to wait a little.

But there are a number reasons that may affect fruiting:

• The seedling was planted incorrectly.
• The crown is incorrectly formed.
• The conditions of agricultural technology are not met.
• The variety does not correspond to the growing area.

Any of the reasons can lead to a bad result.

IMPORTANT! Seedling High Quality and the corresponding variety can only be purchased from farms specializing in this profile.

The infertility of slate apple trees depends on many reasons.

How to grow a trailing apple tree

To grow an apple tree in a creeping form, it is necessary to fulfill all the conditions for planting and forming its crown. In this case, a creeping apple tree requires the same care as for a regular tree.

Correct fit

For growing such trees there are certain rules of agricultural technology.

Selecting a landing site

When choosing a place for a creeping apple tree, it is worth determining to what extent it protected.

It should be on a hill and provided with good protection from the cold north wind. Cold air should drain to a place located much lower.

It is necessary that in winter the wind was unable to blow the snow away from the area. It will be better if it accumulates.

Required for Slants fertile soil. Their main roots are covered surface layer. Due to this, the pit can be of small depth, and its width is about 1 m.

It should also be taken into account that Slants do not like swampy places.

When is the best time to plant elfin?

Early spring is the most favorable period for planting stanza. It is necessary to choose the moment before the buds bloom on the seedlings.

In autumn, when the trees shed their leaves, you can also plant apple trees. You just need to calculate it so that there are 2 - 3 weeks left before the soil freezes.

How to plant correctly

When planting a creeping apple tree, you should take into account the characteristics of its growth. The soil must be mixed with humus and poured into the prepared hole in the form of a cone. Place the seedling at an angle of 35° - 45°. The top should face south.

IMPORTANT! The cut rootstock spike should face the ground surface. If its wound is higher, the seedling can be broken when tilted.

Its root collar should be positioned so that it is 5 cm below the ground level.

Features of planting creeping apple tree seedlings.

You just need to consider:

• When planted shallowly, the rootstock may sprout. It needs to be removed every year.
• When planting deeply, if the soil is heavy with high degree humidity, the bark may prop up at the neck of the root.

Having installed the seedling correctly, spread its roots evenly along the sides of the mound, cover it with earth and compact it thoroughly. For watering you need to take 2 buckets of water per apple tree..

Carrying out pre-planting work, preparation landing pit the same as for ordinary trees.

Reproduction

You can propagate the stanella with the help drops.

Since its branches are located very low, this process is not difficult to carry out. A small transverse incision is made at the point where the branch touches the ground, which slows down the outflow of nutrients. This causes swelling and small roots to form.

Having deepened the prepared branch into the ground, secure it with a wire bracket. Sprinkle some soil on top. Watering is necessary 2 times a week, depending on weather conditions.

In autumn, the mother branch can be pruned. And transplant the rooted plant to a new place.

Can be propagated by grafting, if you find the right rootstock.

In the fall, when sap flow stops, the annual shoot (cutting) is cut off. It lasts until spring.

And during the period until the buds have blossomed, they vaccinate, choosing a solid branch.

It should grow away from other branches so that they do not obscure it. Make a diagonal cut on the branch. The cuttings must also be cut off, leaving up to four buds.

A cut is made on the branch and on the shoot and they are matched by cuts so that their bark touches and aligned. Using film, wrap the grafting site and cover it with garden varnish.

Even a novice gardener can perform this procedure.

Rootstocks for creeping apple trees

Any variety can be used as a rootstock for stlanes. Just so that he doesn't have fragility. Beneficial use of clonal rootstock Progress, as it has high frost resistance and winter hardiness of the roots and top part.

Pruning a creeping apple tree

Pruning should begin in early spring. At this time, diseased and withered shoots are removed. Further throughout the season (summer and autumn) follows control their growth and trim off unnecessary branches that lead to thickening of the crown.

Proper pruning creeping apple tree.

Shoots that lead to thickening of the crown are cut into a ring.

Autumn pruning involves removing dry branches.

How creeping apple trees are formed

The horizontal position of the crown branches from planting and the entire fruiting period is maintained by holding them near the ground. The inclined branches are directed in opposite directions with free space.

The shoots that grow at the base of the trunk are bent in the opposite direction relative to its growth and pinned.

The horizontal position of the apple tree branches is ensured by pinning them to the ground.

When forming the crown, it is necessary to remove damaged, broken branches, as well as those that create shading. At the beginning of spring and summer, shoots that create shading are removed.

Each skeletal shoot should grow in the right direction and be provided with good lighting.

Growing shoots turn into fruit branches by pinching them near the fourth or fifth leaf. If they are industries, the procedure is repeated.

To form correct crown creeping apple tree, it will take almost 6 years.

This is not a difficult job, but it must be done every year.

Slate seedlings can also be planted in upright position without tilting. In early spring it should be pruned at a height of 12 -15 cm.

When the kidneys will produce shoots up to 20 cm long, you need to direct them to the sides. Pressing it to the soil, pin it with metal hooks, leaving a gap of up to 8 cm between them.

Further actions are carried out in the same way as when forming seedlings planted at an angle.

Important! In autumn the stlantsy formed different methods, hunkering down for the winter.

Errors that occur during formation

Sometimes during the formation of stanza there is problem when the skeleton became irregular shape . Of course, it is very important to know how to form a creeping apple tree.

To correct the situation, it is necessary to tilt the growing shoots to the side to correct the shape, pinning them to the ground with hooks.

It will take several years to form a high-quality crown of a creeping apple tree.

To achieve good result, need to create optimal conditions for her growth. By applying fertilizers, watering, and removing weeds in time, you can create all the necessary prerequisites.

Useful videos

Watch the video from experienced gardener on how to create a slate:

Watch a video about shale formation, the experience of professionals:

Having planted an apple tree seedling in the garden and formed a stele from it, you will buy a frost-resistant plant which will give wonderful harvest fruits

At the same time, caring for a creeping apple tree is not difficult for beginning gardeners.

In contact with

In the conditions of the Urals, Siberia and Northern Kazakhstan, large-fruited apple trees can be successfully grown when they form a stylized crown that overwinters under the snow.
Annual seedlings whose trunk has not yet lost its elasticity and bends easily are planted in the garden. Some manuals recommend planting them obliquely, but many years of experience of Siberian gardeners have shown that it is better to plant annual seedlings vertically, as usual, to the level of the root collar. Sloping planting is justified only if the seedlings (two-year-old) are overgrown and their trunk cannot be bent without breaking.

2-3 weeks after planting, the trunk of the apple tree annual seedling carefully bend it into a horizontal position through the “thorn”, otherwise the scion may break off from the apple tree rootstock. The bent trunk is secured in this position with a hook made of brushwood or wire. The bending point of the trunk should be at a height of no more than 15-20 cm from the soil surface, so that in the future the horizontal base of the tree crown can be easily covered with snow. Bend the trunk in summer time Not recommended. The top of the trunk is cut 15-20 cm above the bud located in its lower part. At autumn planting trunk pruning should be postponed until spring.

New shoots that appear on the trunk in the first half of summer should grow freely, that is, vertically upward. In the second half (July - early August), new shoots are also secured with hooks in a horizontal position. At the same time, they try to arrange them so that in the future they do not interfere with each other’s growth and do not intertwine with each other. It is recommended to bend the shoot that has grown near the bend in the direction opposite to the direction of growth of the main trunk. You cannot be late with the deadline for bending down the shoots, assign this work to autumn period, since in this case the lignified shoots are not fixed in a horizontal position and rise again after removing the hooks. Shoots bent in a timely manner complete growth faster, ripen well and are firmly fixed in a horizontal position.
For the winter, the crown of the seedling is covered with pine needles, tops or other materials. To avoid the colonization of mice under the crown, it is not recommended to use materials for shelter that attract these garden pests - straw, weeds. In addition, before hiding under the crowns of the elfin trees, you need to place poisoned baits.
In subsequent years, the formation of stale crowns continues until the trees begin to bear fruit. The principle of formation is the same - every year in the first half of summer, new shoots are allowed to grow freely, and in the second half they are bent with hooks into a horizontal position. At the same time, make sure that the base of the crown is formed in one tier, that is, they do not allow the branches to intertwine, overlap each other, or become excessively thick. All unnecessary branches are cut out. When bending shoots, it is not recommended to secure several at once with one hook, since this will create broom-like crowns in which the shoots will interfere with each other’s normal growth and fruiting. For more convenient cultivation of the soil under the crown, it is not recommended to lay branches on the ground. Only in areas with little snow cover can an exception be made and laid directly on the soil surface and even covered with earth for the winter. On heavy, heavily moistened soils, the bark may become subdued and the covered branches may even die completely, especially if you are late in freeing them from the ground in the spring-summer period.

After the trees begin to bear fruit, the bending of skeletal branches is stopped. As a rule, fruit-bearing branches themselves fall to the ground under the weight of the fruit. By pruning the peripheral part of the crown at this time, broken or diseased branches are removed; if they become very thick, they are thinned out.
During June and July, all vertically growing shoots of the middle part of the crown, when they reach a height of 12-18 cm, are pinched, that is, their upper part is pinched, leaving a stump with 3-4 leaves. If you leave them without pinching, they grow strongly and delay the end of tree growth, which reduces its winter hardiness and productivity.

Summer pinching can be replaced by bending the shoots into a horizontal position or twisting their tops in the form of a loop. Shoots that are pinched or twisted in summer must be pruned annually in the spring throughout the life of the tree. Mostly very thick (fatifying) vertical shoots are cut out, leaving weaker ones that have an inclined or horizontal position. All uncut shoots with a length of more than 20-25 cm are cut into stumps with 3-4 buds. If a vertical shoot branched last summer, then it is cut back to the lower branch, which in turn is also cut into 2-3 buds.
T. Ya. Mochalova