Life after death. hammer from the USSR with your own hands. Reverse hammer: consider the principle of operation and make a tool with your own hands The purpose of a bench hammer

All wooden handles on hand tool, I make it from well-dried birch, including for hammers. For hammers weighing 300-400 grams, a rectangular block, 350 millimeters long, with sides 40x30, is sufficient. Measure the internal jaw of the hammer head. After finishing, you should get a block with sides approximately 35x25. On one side of the block, mark the center (with lines from corner to corner). Around this center, build a rectangle with sides equal to the hole on the hammer in width and height. Bend the edges and faces of the block with a plane from the back of the future handle to the sides of the rectangle drawn at the end. Chamfer the corners and round them. Using sandpaper, adjust the front edge of the handle to the size of the hole in the hammer so that it fits tightly.

The lines at the end of the handle that we drew to construct the rectangle will now become marks for the place of the wedges. Take a chisel and make notches along them, so that the notches do not reach closer than 5 mm to the edge of the handle, otherwise the wedges may split the handle.

We drive wedges crosswise - first wooden and then iron. For a wooden wedge I use resinous pine; it “sticks” well to the birch handle.

None paints and varnishes I don’t use it for impregnation. I don't feel comfortable when the handle slides. A new handle mounted on a hammer, including its end parts, is impregnated a couple of times with clean machine oil, with drying a day between layers. The handle of such a hammer does not absorb water, even if left in the rain, it does not make your hand freeze in the cold season, and as a kind of aesthetic addition, it has a beautiful amber color - this color is obtained from staining birch with oil.

V.A.VOLKOV. Dedicated to T.V. Cherkasova

Interceptions, Knocks. Changes. Breaks Interruptions Busts Overflows Thunders Rumble. Calls Scream. Murmur. Stomp. Whisper. Laughter...

A percussion tool is a tool that is used to strike during work, directly or through a stand-in tool. Hand percussion instruments include hammers, sledgehammers, and mallets.

A hammer is the most common tool. It is found in virtually every apartment and house. But precisely because of their necessity and versatility, there are many designs of hammers for a specific purpose: metalworking, carpentry, carpentry, etc.

Locksmith's hammers

They (Fig. 1) are the most widely produced. They are convenient for delivering blows for a variety of jobs: hammering, bending, flattening, etc.

Rice. 1. Bench hammers: a - with a round head; b - with a square striker

Bench hammers (Table 1) are produced with round (Fig. 1a) and square strikers (Fig. 16).

Table 1

Note. Hammer heads with a square striker are also manufactured with a mass of 50 and 100 g, respectively, with L 200 and 250 mm at H equal to 75 and 82 mm under No. 1 and 2.

Hammer No. 1 with a round striker is recommended for “delicate” work such as marking, wallpaper, etc., and hammers No. 2, 3, 4 - for metalwork, “nailing,” etc. home loads. Hammers No. 5 and 6 with the same striker are used for “heavy” tasks, for example, driving staples into logs.

A number 1 square hammer is suitable for nailing when glazing. Only the nail should be placed parallel to the glass, otherwise it will crack.

Steel construction hammers

These hammers, depending on their purpose, are manufactured in many types, which are listed in table. 2 and in Fig. 2.

Carpenter's hammers are used for woodworking using chisels, chisels and other tools. The main part of the body (Fig. 2a) is the firing pin, the auxiliary part is a wedge-shaped (with a one-sided concave bevel in the past) toe. The last ones to hammer in are nails in grooves, narrow places, etc.

Rice. 2. Steel construction hammers: a - carpentry type MST; 6 - carpentry type MPL-1; c - carpenter type MPL-2; g - pickaxe type MKI-1; d - pickaxe type MKI-2; e - plaster type MShT-1; g - plaster type MShT-2; h - parquet type MPA; and - parquet type MPA VNIISMI Minstroydormash; k - roofing type MKR-1 and MKR-2; l - roofing type MKR-3; m - slate type MSHI 1; n - slate type MSHI-2; o - slate Yushchenko; P - tiled type MPLI-1; r - tiled type MPPI-2; c - entrench type MSHA-1; t * - trench type MSHA-2; f - cam type MIU-1; x - cam type MKU-2; c - for notching concrete and brick surfaces; h - automated, driven by an internal combustion engine; 1 - body; 2 - wooden handle; 3 - to the stumps; 4 - tubular rod; ! S - rubber handle; 6 - fitting; 7 - ring | see fig. 2-2, 2-3, 2-4, 2-5)

The MP L-2 carpenter's hammer (Fig. 2c) is much more practical than the MPL-1 carpenter's hammer (Fig. 26). The body of the MPL-2 hammer is hot pressed onto a tubular rod. There is no need to worry about locking the body on the rod. Attention to the position of the wedge in the wooden handle of the MPL-1 hammer is necessary from a safety point of view. Bumpiness of the body on the handle

leads to it jumping off during the swing to strike. A body "floating" in the air causes terrible injuries. The rubber handle is glued tightly onto the shaft of the MPL-2 hammer. It slows down the sliding of the palm and softens the recoil upon impact.

Hammers of the MPL-1 type were produced in weights of 0.35 and 0.5 kg, now - up to 0.8 kg.

Pick hammers (Fig. 2d, e) were produced with a weight of 0.4; 0.5; 0.6 kg with toe length up to 200 mm. If bricks are used as the material for these hammers, then the brick is crushed with a square striker, for example, when filling voids. Using a flat toe, they chop bricks into incomplete pieces when bandaging seams, laying jambs, belts, etc. The weight of modern hammers MKY-1 is up to 0.7 kg, MKI-2 is up to 1 kg.

Parquet hammers (Fig. 2h, i) are made different designs and masses.

Thus, the hammer (Fig. 2i) of the Georgievsk Stroyinstrument plant has a mass of 0.47 kg. A narrow strip of the protruding toe of the case thanks to the solid total area does not crush the wood along the edges of the parquet flooring. But with such a toe it is sometimes difficult to hit the head of a nail when laying parquet. The doboynik corrects the shortcomings of the hammer.

Roofing hammers (Fig. 2k, l), unlike most other types of hammers, are forged (Table 4). They maintain the integrity of the handle near the body. The sharp edges of the processed sheets would gradually split the handle.

Table 4 Roofing hammers according to GOST 11042-83

Note. The dimensions of the MKP-3 hammer are shown in Fig. 2l, its weight is up to 1.5 kg.

In the past, roofing hammers were made weighing 0.4; 0.5; 0.65 and 1.4 kg.

A modern automated hammer (Fig. 2h) is even different in appearance from a traditional one. They don't need to swing and hold the nail. It is enough to bring it to the selected point. The hammer will do the rest on command. The nail will be supplied from the store. The striker itself, with one blow, will drive the nail to the head.

The hammer mechanism is a cross between a pistol and... an engine internal combustion! The trigger is pressed, and at the same moment a portion of fuel is injected from a special pressure cylinder into the working chamber. An electric spark ignites it. A microexplosion occurs in the chamber. Its strength is transferred to the striker, which moves reciprocatingly.

The charge in the batteries and the fuel in the cylinder are enough for several hours of intensive work. Replacing the cylinder and battery is a matter of a few minutes. Such “toys” are produced in Finland.

A similar “work” can be made independently from a household tool with an electric drive that has a reciprocating motion. Well, let's say, from a hammer drill. The pneumatic drive is also applicable for the construction of “self-driving” hammers. But to use them, undoubtedly, you need a monotonous field of activity.

Sledgehammers

One hand usually operates the hammer. Although entrenching hammers (Fig. 2c, t) weighing up to 2... 2.5 kg cannot be moved without the application of the other hand when a series of blows is needed. The cam hammers are also approximately the same weight (Fig. 2f, x).

Sledgehammers are used to deliver strong blows with two hands. Blacksmithing is the main purpose of a sledgehammer. But you can’t do without a sledgehammer on garden and estate plots. It is the main tool for driving fence stakes, constructing a greenhouse, etc.

Blunt-nosed (Fig. 3) and sharp-nosed (Fig. 36) - this is the division of sledgehammers (Tables 5, 6). The first ones are more common in everyday life.

Blunt sledgehammers

Table 5

Sharp-nosed sledgehammers

Table 6

The hole on any type of sledgehammer is located at its center of gravity. According to figures 3a and 36, it has an oval shape with a two-sided slope of 1:10. This is done for better wedging of the wooden handle. Therefore, with independent creativity, the displacement of the hole in the sledgehammer along the limit axis is permissible within ±1.5...2 mm, and along the transverse axis - up to ±0.4...0.6 mm.

The length of the sledgehammer handle reaches 750... 900 mm. The wooden handle is good for small one-time jobs. There are many tricks for securing a sledgehammer to the handle. But they don’t last long and the fasteners come back. Yes! A sledgehammer that comes off the handle during a swing will kill or “spectacularly” injure the sledgehammer himself or someone standing next to him...

Follow safety precautions!

Secure the sledgehammers to the handle!

It is permissible to forget about the “friendship” of the sledgehammer and the handle when they are tightly connected. To achieve this, the handle is selected from a suitable steel pipe. A seamless water and gas pipe is preferable. The absence of a longitudinal seam on the outer surface of the pipe indicates that it is seamless.

Rice. 3. Sledgehammers: a - blunt-nosed; 6 - pointed-nosed.

The end of the metal handle is slightly flattened so that it fits into the oval hole of the sledgehammer. Then the “queen” - electric welding will complete the deed. I warn you right away that you can’t do without welding! The end of the pipe handle does not need to be welded. There, while the sledgehammer is “resting,” you can place the tool.

Homemade hammer bodies

It is not always necessary to use a hammer. It all depends on what kind of bullshit is needed. This is what the sledgehammer was called back in the last century. Naturally occurring cobblestone is sometimes sufficient (Fig. 4) to hammer something down. Brick rarely fits; it crumbles too quickly. This is a modern brick, but in the Middle Ages and earlier the brick was 2... 3 times smaller and stronger. Drive the nails calmly.

A piece of pipe, a piece of hexagon or square steel, a railway spike for securing rails to wooden sleepers, a large bolt, etc. - all this replaces the hammer in certain circumstances.

A piece of water and gas pipe with an outer diameter of, say, 21 mm, a length of 200... 300 mm, with pipe thread, onto which the valve body is screwed (Fig. 4), or the valve assembly with a shortened or removed stem, completely resembles a hammer.

Rice. 4. Quickly made homemade hammers: 1 - cobblestone (primitive design); 2 - valve; 3 - steel pipe; 4 - flywheel-crossbar

The flywheels (Fig. 4) of some water taps and valves are a brass crossbar with a square hole in the middle. This flywheel just begs to be turned into a miniature hammer. Sharpening one end of the flywheel with a file or sharpener will create the toe of the hammer body. Giving the striker a square shape will also expand the applicability of the production tool.

Semenikhin's hammer is made of a steel rod (Fig. 5) of square or hexagonal cross-section with dimensions between parallel edges from 16 to 24 mm. It is advisable to use the following steel grades for the manufacture of the hammer body: U7, U8, 45, 50, 60, etc. An electric sharpener allows you to fairly accurately determine the grade of steel by sparks. “Ordinary” steel with a low carbon content, if the striker is used frequently, will lead to the appearance of “roses” on its edges.

The striker of Semenikhin's hammer, like the factory strikers, has a spherical convexity, which allows for better contact with the object being struck. Instantaneous load - at the axis point of the striker. This axis passes through the center of mass.

Rice. 5. Semenikhin’s hammer: a - distribution of impact load across the striker; b - body; c - base of the handle; g - handle assembly (option); d - diagram of the connection between the body and the handle (option)

In addition to the composition of the steel material, hardening also contributes to strengthening the toe and striker of the body. Brought to required sizes the body is heated in a muffle or some other suitable furnace to a temperature of 730... 830°C. The temperature can be determined by the color of the body, which is close to cherry.

The body is taken with pliers with long handles and the hands are smoothly lowered into the water, raising the head proudly. Hot splashes may occur. Goggles are the preferred eye protection. Mittens are put on hands.

The cooled and dried body is cleaned with abrasive sandpaper. But the body is also colored using tarnished colors. The cleaned body is placed back into the oven for heating. The colors on the body will appear in the following sequence: light and dark yellow, brown and purple-red, violet, cornflower blue, gray. The desired color is “grabbed” by removing the body and placing it on a metal base. Wiping with an oily rag forms a resistant film on the body, which will also protect against corrosion. The entire range of colors listed is achievable within the heating range of the housing from 220 to 330°C.

Making a hammer body yourself is a labor-intensive undertaking. A vice, an electric drill, files, a hacksaw, a caliper, a ruler - this is the minimum set of tools. A piece of metal for the body blank is marked according to the drawing or the drawings given here. Depending on the available equipment, they begin with filing surfaces or drilling holes. The final hole for the handle is made at the minimum of two in advance drilled holes, because it is oval.

A number of hammer designs (Fig. b) are “dedicated” to eliminating impact recoil. Various moving masses (liquid, shot, mercury, rod, etc.) inside the body or handle absorb recoil. Making the handle or part of it in the form of a flat spring also helps reduce recoil (Fig. b). Rechitsky told readers about similar hammers in his book “Profession - Inventor.” The production of such hammers is quite accessible to craftsmen.

Homemade handles

The handle plays no less a role in the productive operation of the hammer than the body. Although in isolated cases the body will fulfill its purpose without a handle. Its dimensions largely depend on the age, height and physique of the “manager” of the hammer. It is customary to say that one hammer is handy, the other is not. Why? Few will answer this question. Let's add an explanation.

Rice. 6. Homemade hammers that absorb recoil from impact: a - with a ball; 6 - mercury; c - a weight with a spring; g - rod; d - fraction; e - flat spring part of the handle

The thickness of the handle depends on the length of the fingers of the “user”. Anyone can choose the best thickness without difficulty (Fig. 76). The length of the handle is also selected by touch, which only partly depends on the weight of the hammer. The hand experiences a shock or sharp shock with each blow from a short or too long handle. Vibrations cause rapid fatigue and affect the strength and confidence of the fight. Therefore, first they plan out a deliberately long handle. In a trial battle, they find the most convenient capture site. The excess part of the handle is sawed off so that a free end 35 cm long remains behind the hand. In general, the heavier the body, the longer the handle is made.

Rice. 7. Homemade handles: a - defective; b - choice of thickness and length; c - modern style handles; g - old design; d - with indentations on the ax handle to prevent palms from slipping

Not everyone loves experiments. Well, there are recommendation tables. One, tab. 7, - about modern-style handles (Fig. 7c) of a cone shape. The second is table. 8 - about the handles of an old model (Fig. 7d). This handle, among other advantages, is safer. Its thickened end prevents the tool from slipping out of the fist.

Table 7 Handles for round hammers

Notes: 1) some sizes are rounded; 2) the table has been shortened.

Homemade handles, sadly enough, are planed from found “scavenger” material. And there is no breed autograph on it. How to be? I advise you to check the “nationality” of the wood with a nail. It will even penetrate dry coniferous wood without difficulty under the influence of something heavy. Relatively rare deciduous “aristocrats” (beech, hickory, etc.) will yield only to the prolonged onslaught of the “plebeian” nail. How can one not remember its merits?

The second sign of purebred, “blue blood” wood is the purpose, shape, and finishing of the found piece. They still try to produce furniture from noble breeds. Therefore, the legs and crossbars, for example of chairs and tables, - excellent material for handles.

Broken hockey sticks are also eligible for further use. They are, however, made of multi-layer plywood. This requires a variety of tools to process them, and securing the body to the hammer handle will not be entirely ordinary (Fig. 8h).

Handles for hammers according to OST 90028-39, mm

Table 8

Handles for hammers with square heads have slight differences in size with the data given in table. 7. Therefore, there is no special table on handles for hammers with square heads. The material for the handle plays an important role in its quality. Solid lumber hardwood for hammer handles, GOST 11 042-83 is allowed to be used. Young oak, white beech, maple, etc. go to the production of handles. Birch and ash are less acceptable.

The handles are made exclusively from dry and viscous material, which can subsequently take on a natural polish. Cracks, rot, sprouts and wormholes are unacceptable. Two fused healthy knots with a diameter of no more than 5 mm at a distance of 2/3 of the length of the handle from the side of the free end can still sometimes be seen, but not on handles for tile hammers. Knots on the handles of these hammers are generally prohibited. Sagging, cavities, bubbles, dents and wallpaper are also not found on factory-made handles.

Suitable branches from purebred trees will increase the longevity of the handle. The bark here will act as a constriction tube. Such handles, however, will not correspond to the recommended ones (Fig. 7). Moreover, the handles will be rough, which, according to our “guide” books, will cause calluses. Maybe. It all depends on how and how much you work. However, you should sometimes look around for comparison. No. There is no need to move beyond the cordon. The shelves of domestic stores will surprise you. The handles of overseas axes, say, at the grip site, have specially drilled recesses (Fig. 7e), which prevents the palm from sliding. A number of domestic hammers with tubular rods (Fig. 2 c, e, g, n) are equipped with rubber handles for this purpose. By the way, spitting on the palm also slows down their “shift”.

Rice. 8. Fastening the body to the hammer handle: a - slopes of the body hole; 6 - wooden wedge; c - a metal wedge with “petals” along the edges; g - with one click; d - two wedges; e - three wedges; g - screws or nails; 3 - steel wire.

The standard technology for manufacturing the handle is as follows:

• 1) marking the workpiece according to the drawing, taking into account the processing allowance;


• 2) filing the surface leaving an allowance;


• 3) planing of the workpiece leaving a minimum allowance;


• 4) surface treatment with sandpaper until the minimum allowance is removed;


• 5) surface coating with enamels bright colors or varnish, oiling is also acceptable.

A freshly made handle can also be dried in hot smoke or heated strongly in front of a fire. Then - sanding with medium-grain sandpaper and fine emery cloth. Rubbing with wood shavings until a gloss appears is the last operation in surface finishing. If there is no skin, the surface of the handle is smoothly scraped with fragments of window glass.

Attaching the body to the handle

Bench hammers (Fig. 1) are the most common in everyday life. If you carefully examine the holes in the housings, you will see that each hole at the inputs has an expansion-slope (Fig. 8a), and between the expansions there is an oval belt. Clear? The narrowed part of the handle is squeezed through the belt until it comes out on the other side of the hole to a length of approximately 2 mm (GOST 11042-83, p. 21). To make it easier for the handle to enter the hole, the narrowed part is slightly rubbed with fat and tapped on the end of the thickened part. The cone facing the main part of the handle will be filled to some extent. But between the opposite cone in the body and the protruding part of the handle there will be an oval gap. It will be filled by the end of the narrowed part after driving, say, a wooden or metal wedge into it (Table 9).

Wooden wedges

Table 9

Note: 1) the table is partial; 2) some sizes are rounded.

The overall dimensions of metal wedges are approximately the same as those of wooden ones (Fig. 86). On wooden wedges, the teeth-steps are made in such a way as to prevent the handle from coming out of the hammer on its own; on metal wedges, notches are made with a chisel. To do this, the metal plate is clamped in a vice. Safety precautions are needed here too. A plate simply resting against something “resistant” can slip out and injure. Ruff notches are also created by welding. The holes in the plate of the future wedge also slow down its exit from the wooden handle. The petals along the edges (Fig. 8c) of the wedge will successfully replace the notches. The cuts to create the petals are made with a hacksaw, and the bends are made with pliers or a hammer.

The number of wedges for fastening the body and handle is different. If the hammer hole has only a lateral expansion-slope between the points GB and VL, then one longitudinal wedge is hammered in (Fig. 8d). Moreover, not surprisingly, GOST 11042-83 says: “Tolerance for the symmetry of the thrust axis relative to the plane of symmetry of the hammer body: 0.3 mm for a hammer body weighing up to 0.2 kg; 0.5 mm - for a hammer body weighing from 0.2 to 1.0 kg...". It's clear. The layers of wood in the handle should extend parallel to its axis. When this parallelism is too distorted, and even the gap under the wedge is crooked and at random, then there is a possibility of the handle splitting when driving the wedge.

The expansion-slope between points BV and GD occurs only along the hole. Two wedges are then hammered in (Fig. 8e). Three wedges are “driven” into the handle when the expansion is inclined along the entire oval hole. Two wedges are placed parallel to each other, and the third is perpendicular to them and between them (Fig. 8a, e). By the way, GOST 11042-83 states: “The number of wedges, the position of the wedge and the method of wedging are not established by the standard.” The body is considered to be correctly mounted on the handle when a right angle is formed between their axes. It is important to maintain this angle when using the hammer. The body very often wobbles on the handle depending on the impacts, changing the angle of the nozzle.

Many people, instead of a wedge made according to all the rules of art (Fig. 86), use a sliver of a suitable shape. You can't save time. The chip will soon fall out and it will be good, if not with the body. In addition to everything, you still need to systematically check the “health” of the wood chips. She, heartfelt, restrains the body, which is “free” in the process of soaring and is capable of killing. No! I'm not scary! And a legitimate wedge can pop out when some trick is not used.

Before “pushing in”, the WEDGE SHOULD BE LUBRICATED WITH COOKER'S GLUE or some other suitable, but, without a doubt, not office glue.

Are there other ways to secure the body to a wooden handle? Of course there is. Two or three screws are chosen so long that it is approximately 1/2...2/3 of the depth of the housing hole. Two or three holes several millimeters deep are drilled into the end of the handle along the axial plane of the hammer (Fig. 8g). Similar depressions are also made with a nail. It would be good to screw in the screws without hammering them in. To make it easier to screw into a dry handle, the screws are lubricated or deeper holes are drilled with a drill with a diameter two to three times smaller than the diameter of the screws.

Nails are also a kind of wedges, but not just any kind. Tar nails come closest to this purpose. The diameter of their rods is 2...3 mm, length - 20...400 mm. If there are no such nails, then shorten construction nails of the appropriate diameters. Light, thermally untreated low-carbon steel wire is used for stamping. Therefore, notches are not so difficult to make on them. When making nicks is a problem, then use rusty nails of the recommended sizes. The rust will provide at least some resistance to popping out. Like screws, nails should not be driven into the end of the handle more than half the depth of the hole. If the nail is large, it is cut off with a chisel, an ax or a hacksaw. The stump is sharpened. This operation is eliminated when the shortening is “performed” not perpendicular to the axis of the rod, but at an angle. The smaller the angle between the axis of the rod and the chisel blade, the sharper the stump. By the way, a wedge nail head is not required. Consequently, the cut off part will not greatly damage the nail, which is then used for its intended purpose.

A steel wire with a diameter of 3...4 mm closes the body well to the hammer handle (Fig. 8h). The hole for passing the wire is drilled at a sufficient distance from the end in the handle. When the wire is too steely to bend, it is annealed a little on any fire. Two grooves in the handle are threaded for laying the wire. Then the “collective” is passed into the body and the ends of the wire are bent. They are sometimes made longer in order to wrap around a body of a suitable shape, for example, a mechanic's hammer with a round striker.

I made this hammer a couple of years ago. It was necessary because I had to tap each paving slabs. It softens blows, something like a rubber hammer. Only a hammer made of rubber does not last long. Since it is not made from rubber, as it should be, at least with the addition of it.

Of course, you can’t boast about the design, but nevertheless, the quality of this hammer is good.

The old mallet (pictured) has become unusable! The wood has already cracked and dried out from long use. It was urgently necessary to replace it with a new one. I drew a model of the future mallet on the computer, printed the picture on paper and got to work.

Step 1: Materials and Tools

For this project we will need several pieces of wood. This is a great opportunity to use up unwanted wood scraps. Many people I know waste is not given a chance to be useful, it just ends up either in the trash or burned like firewood.

I am not a master carpenter, but I think anyone can do this with a hammer.

You will need:

1. Saw;
2. Wood glue;
3. Some clamps

I used a circular saw. I think that it is the fastest way to cut pieces of wood. After cutting, take sandpaper and clean the sides.

Step 2: Cut it out

Everyone chooses the size of the mallet at their own discretion. This is not critical. Everyone can also design a hammer independently and to suit their own tastes.

I made my handle length 350mm. Handle width 40 mm. at one end and 30 mm at the other. This size can be achieved easily if you have a table saw. It will be a little difficult with a hand saw, but everything is possible.

Step 3: Assembling

We place the handle exactly in the middle of one of the 120x90 mm pieces, so that 25 mm is from the thickest side of the end of the handle. It should protrude slightly from the overall head of the hammer. Now we glue all the cut pieces together (Visible in the photo). Don't forget to take out the hammer handle, it should not stick with the hammer.

Use clamps to secure the hammer for better gluing of all parts of the hammer. In places where glue has leaked, remove it. We also clean the glue in the hole where the hammer handle goes in. Before completely dry it is necessary to leave our structure for at least 30 minutes. Somewhat reminiscent of the layers of a sandwich and the condiments oozing out of it. It will, of course, look terrible, but in the next stages magic will happen.

Step 4: Processing the Hammer

Now that you have the hammer (head) and everything is firmly glued together, it's time to make it even more beautiful. I made cuts on the hammer handle in order to cut out small indentations later. This will make it easier for the handle to lie in your hand, and then pleasant work with the mallet.

Let's take a pen and cut out the recesses mentioned above. We process the corners of the handle, making them more sloping (rounded). If your handle is too long, cut it off.

After the work has been done, insert the handle into the hammer.

Step 5: Trimming and Refinishing

Processing sandpaper all the irregularities on the handle, for more smooth surface and avoid future splinters in the hand. I drilled a hole at the end of the handle so that I could store it hanging in the future.

Step 6: Finished mallet hammer

If you want to glue the handle to your head, you can do so, but I didn’t do this, it’s not going anywhere for me anyway.

I look forward to your comments, dear friends!

Body repair is a complex operation that requires certain knowledge, special tools and devices. One such device is a reverse hammer. This is a simple tool that is easy to make with your own hands. There are many photos and videos on the Internet for this. You can also download a drawing of the simplest version of the device.

This tool is a device that allows you to apply a certain force to an area of ​​metal with limited access. A leveling device is used small plots deformed car that suffered from minor accidents.

Some areas of the car body can be leveled with a regular rubber hammer, using blows with reverse side. However, most surfaces do not have such access. In such cases, a reverse hammer is necessary. Its tip is fixed at the point of deformation, and with the help of a load located at the other end of the device, a pulling jerk force is transmitted to the surface.

Before making a reverse hammer, it is necessary to describe the types of this tool. This will be needed to make a drawing of the device you need, and then make it.

Despite its simplicity, this device has acquired several versions over time. Each option is used in individual cases, which depend on the type of damage and the skill of the specialist. IN general outline The design of this device is the same, as is its operating principle. The only differences are in the method of attaching the tool to the body.

The most common reverse hammer is a metal rod with a hook at one end and a weight with a stop at the other. The hook hooks onto a washer welded to the deformation site. By applying impact forces to the load, the deformation is stretched to the desired point.

The second, equally simple version of the reverse hammer differs from the previous one in that there is a regular thread at the end instead of a hook. To level the surface with such a device, you need to make a hole in the center of the deformation, insert the threaded end there, and fasten a washer and nut to it on the back side.

Most complex type of this device has at the end vacuum device, which is fixed on the surface of a deformed part using rarefied air. The suction cup can be driven either by a compressor or by the usual method. This type of device allows the straightener to correct simple damage to the body, and at the same time preserve paintwork area, if it is not damaged.

Making a reverse hammer at home with your own hands is quite simple. It does not take much time and does not require special materials and tools. For a clearer understanding, you can watch a video on the Internet. A primitive drawing will also not be superfluous.

To make this tool with your own hands you will need the following:

• metal pin about 50 cm and 20 mm in diameter;
• a load that has an internal opening;
• thread cutting tool (optional);
• welding machine;
• Bulgarian.

If you decide to make a reverse hammer with a hook type of fastening, then a hook is made at the end of the pin. This can be done using a vice or pliers. Or weld welding machine a ready-made hook from another device.

If the tool is made with a threaded grip, then the end of the pin is threaded with the appropriate tool. You should not cut a lot of threads, since the metal of the body is quite thin.

After making the tip, a weight is put on the pin, which is limited on the back side of the tool. This can be done by welding, or using a threaded stop. The second method is more advantageous, since it will allow you to use weights of different weights depending on the required force at the end of the reverse hammer.

Again, to clearly understand how this happens, the easiest way is to watch the video. If this is not possible, then the procedure for working with this device is approximately as follows:

• the tip is fixed on a deformed area of ​​the body;
• by striking the load towards itself, the part is leveled to the desired position;
• if the effort is not enough, then the load is changed to a heavier one.

When pulling out a relatively large section of metal, you can weld several washers on one line and thread the pin through them. To do this correctly, it is advisable to watch a video on this topic. This pin is then engaged by a hook, which is welded to the fixture and pulled back along with the metal, aligning it to the desired condition. When using this method, you should be careful, since welding a large number of washers can excessively pull the metal and damage the body part.

Durable, able to withstand great strength impact and at the same time a rubberized hammer on the outside, easy to do with your own hands. The mold for casting it is done simply, and the materials you will need are quite affordable. Step by step process How to make a concrete hammer with your own hands is outlined and clearly demonstrated below.

Materials

Before you make a hammer with your own hands, make sure you have:

• Lego constructor;
• concrete mixing solution;
• solution epoxy resin;
• wooden handle;
• sharp knife or screwdriver;
• wax for polishing wood;
• chisels;
• sandpaper;
• gloves;
• corner.

Step 1. Using Lego, assemble a mold for casting the striking part of the hammer. The good thing about the constructor is that its parts fit as closely as possible to each other, preventing the solution from leaking out through the cracks. The product can be made to any size. IN in this case I needed a small hammer. You can change it at your own discretion.

Step 2. To the center assembled form for casting a hammer, place wooden handle. Be sure to make sure that the part of the future tool is durable and not rotten. For the handle, choose strong types of wood; in this master class it was walnut.

Step 3. Dilute the concrete solution in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions and pour it into the mold. Make sure that the handle continues to stand strictly vertical during the process. Adjust it if necessary. Compact the solution with your hands, after wearing gloves. Be sure to ensure that no air pockets form. The solution must be compacted tightly.

Step 4. After a few hours, disassemble the constructor. Due to the smooth surface of the plastic, the process will proceed without much effort, but if you doubt that it can be separated from the concrete, lubricate the mold before casting vegetable oil. Give the material a little more time to dry.

Step 5. Dilute the epoxy resin solution. It should be viscous. Carefully apply it with a pencil concrete part hammer. Leave the product until the materials are completely dry. This process will take about a day.