Deciduous humus soil where to get. What is turf land? Peat and peat dust

IN ornamental gardening a variety of specially mixed soils in various combinations. All of them are the result of the decomposition of peat, manure, leaves, turf, etc., they contain the necessary amount of nutrients for growing plants, but depending on the substrate used for their preparation, they have different chemical and physical properties.

Farms most often harvest the following types of soil: peat, compost, humus, leaf and turf. The most porous, elastic and heaviest of them is turf, while others are lighter. The success of plant cultivation mainly depends on the method of harvesting and subsequent cultivation of the soil, and on the ability to choose the right soil mixture.

On perennial fallow pastures and meadows, turf soil is prepared, best in those places where good grass has grown. Turf soil cannot be harvested in low areas with high acidity. Soil preparation begins in the last ten days of June, by which time the grass height reaches maximum height, and the turf will have time to partially decompose by the time the cold weather sets in. The turf, cut into layers, is placed in piles up to 1.5 m high and wide. The top of the piles is periodically watered with slurry so that decomposition occurs faster. To reduce soil acidity, add 2 kg of lime to the piles for every m 3 of land.

Leaf soil

In autumn, leaf soil is harvested in parks, groves and forests. It is best not to use soil from willow and oak; it contains a lot of tannins. Sometimes leaf litter is prepared to obtain leaf soil, selecting the top layer of 2-5 cm, the collected leaf soil is placed in stacks up to 1.5 m high. In the fall, when laying the pile, it is necessary to water the leaves with slurry and compact them well.

After two years, the leaves will rot well and turn into nutritious leaf soil. Such soil is loose and light, but it contains fewer nutrients than turf soil; it is an ideal cultivator for heavy soils. Leaf ground well suited for sowing crops with small seeds - gloxinia, begonias, etc., it must be used in cases where manure humus cannot be used for plants.

Humus soil

Often such soil is called greenhouse soil, the reason is that it is obtained from old greenhouse soil and rotted manure. The droppings of domestic animals placed in a greenhouse in the spring as biofuel are completely rotted by the fall; light humus is obtained from the manure of sheep and horses; cow dung heavier. After cleaning the greenhouse in the fall, the humus is placed in a pile and left for a year; during the summer it is transferred several times. After this, the humus is sifted and used to fertilize plants growing in open ground.

Humus soil is oily, loose, light, and very saturated nutrients, with a high nitrogen content. Used as a potent component in potting soils fast growing plants, such soil is necessary for growing seedlings of annual crops and for many potted plants.

This land is harvested mainly from peat bogs; sometimes it is prepared from peat chips or briquettes. Peat is also placed in piles up to 80 cm high; every 25 cm the layers are sprinkled with lime and watered with slurry. In the first and second years after harvesting, the pile is shifted, and used only in the third season.

Peat soil is very moisture-absorbing, loose and light, it contains many slowly rotting organic particles, and pure form This composition is low in nutrition. Used as a loosening agent for various soil mixtures.

Compost soil

To prepare such soil, various animal and plant remains, weeds, and household and greenhouse waste are composted in pits and heaps. In the second year, the heap with compost is transferred 2-3 times during the summer, watered with slurry. Compost soil is completely ready by the end of the third year; it must be sifted before use.

The properties of this type of soil can vary greatly; they depend on the nature of the waste and the type of material used for composting; they are used in a mixture with peat and turf soil.

A certain amount of ready-made leaf humus forms spontaneously in places where a lot of fallen leaves have accumulated and were able to rot (mainly under trees in the forest). However, as in the case of vegetable compost, with the targeted preparation of leaf humus from leaves specific trees you can influence the chemical composition of the final product, and ready-rotted leaves can be used as a “starter” to speed up the process. You can also use nettle infusion as a composting accelerator (infused for about a week).

The most desirable components for preparing leaf soil are the leaves of oak, chestnut, maple and linden, since they decompose relatively easily and contain a lot of nitrogen. However, if you want to increase the potassium content in leaf soil, you should use apple, pear, plum and hazel leaves (they also contain a lot of iron).

Leaf soil is prepared in the same way as plant humus, with the difference that the decomposition process occurs even faster when air access is completely blocked. To produce small quantities, large quantities can be used. plastic bags(including garbage bags), which can be placed on the balcony without any problems. Typically, the pH of finished leaf soil is 5-6.

Sod soil

As already mentioned, this substrate is prepared from turf. It is prepared similarly to composts (with limited air access). The main thing you should pay attention to is the correct stacking of the sods themselves: they should be placed according to the principle “tops to tops, roots to roots.”

The turf soil is composted slowly, and the nutrient mixture is formed on average after two years.

Based on materials from the book by M. Tsvetkova “Vegetable garden on the window and balcony”

• Leaf soil, or leaf humus, is formed from leaves that are piled up to rot.

  Leaves of deciduous trees are collected in parks, gardens, squares after leaf fall. Oak and chestnut leaves are less suitable because they contain a large number of tannic acid, which negatively affects root system garden plants and slowly decomposes. The heaps are stacked 1-1.5 m high, and in dry summers they are watered abundantly. During the year, the heaps are shoveled 2 times. After 2 years in heaps, the leaves completely decompose, turning into a homogeneous earthy mass, suitable for use in gardening and indoor and greenhouse floriculture.

  Leaf soil is considered nutritious and light. In complex earthen mixtures used in indoor and greenhouse floriculture, it ranges from 1/5 to 3/4 parts.

Related concepts

Heather land. It is used for potted and tub culture of rhododendrons, azaleas, camellias, some types of orchids, ferns and other ornamental plants.

Chlorophytum (lat. Chlorophytum) is a genus of herbaceous plants. Previously, Chlorophytum was classified as a member of the Liliaceae family; among modern research No consensus regarding the place of this genus: according to the Royal Botanic Gardens at Kew, the genus belongs to the Asparagus family, according to the GRIN website - to the Agave family.

Tree peonies are a group of species, natural and artificial hybrids and varieties of the genus Peony (Paeonia) characterized by thick, low-branched, erect perennial shoots.

Houseplants are plants that are grown in rooms and public spaces. Most indoor plants come from the tropics and subtropics.

Mentions in literature

NIDULARIUM STRIPED (Nidularium innocentii var. striantum Wittm.). Bromeliad family. Homeland - tropical regions of America. Herbaceous perennial stemless plant. The leaves are sessile, belt-shaped with longitudinal white-yellow stripes. Arranged spirally, forming a funnel in the center of the spiral, from which lower leaves absorb water with nutritious mineral elements. During the flowering period, the middle bracts are colored bright red color, which gives the plant a special decorative effect. The flowers are collected in dense spike-shaped inflorescences emerging from leaf rosette. Nidularium blooms in late winter - early spring. Propagated by young rosettes and less often by seeds (in greenhouses). The best soil mixture for nidularium: finely chopped sphagnum moss, leaf soil, peat and sand (2:2:1:1). In summer, abundant watering, protection from the bright rays of the sun, periodic fertilizing with low concentration mineral fertilizer, and warm and humid air are required. IN room conditions Nidularium must be sprayed frequently. From October to April, nidularium is kept in a bright window at a temperature of 15-16°C. IN winter time Watering should be more rare and careful. Single specimens or groups are used to decorate rooms, foyers, shop windows, winter gardens, etc.

In Europe, aphelandra has become a common plant due to its bright leaves and striking inflorescences, although it is quite difficult to grow it indoors. It grows well only in warm (22-23°C) rooms with humid air, and does not tolerate dry air at all. Do not allow the coma to dry out or fluctuate in temperature. Aphelandra is propagated from December to April by the tips of shoots at a temperature of 23-25°C. Rooted cuttings are planted in pots in a loose earthen mixture of 4 parts leaf soil, 1 part peat, 1 part humus, 1 part turf soil, 1 part sand, charcoal and bone meal, and phosphorus must be added. Reproduction by seeds is possible.

Leaf soil consists of rotted leaves of woody plants. Leaves are usually harvested in the fall, less often in the spring in forests, parks and forest parks. The leaves of maple, linden, elm, fruit and small-leaved (birch, aspen) plants are most suitable for these purposes. Fallen leaves, twigs, and dried grass are raked and placed in stacks up to 2 m wide and up to 1.5 m high of arbitrary length. Then the stacks are watered with slurry, lime is added and compacted. Over the next summer, the leaf mass is shoveled two or three times and moistened with slurry. By the end of the second year, rotted leaves turn into light, loose leaf soil, the nutrients of which are in a form accessible to the roots and are quickly absorbed by plants.

In the brightest place summer cottage place cacti, sedums, fat plants and other succulents, watering them moderately, but not feeding them. Actively growing callas require abundant watering, so there should be some water in the pan at all times. Large specimens of calla lilies are transplanted into a mixture made up of leaf soil, sand, humus and peat. All components are taken in equal parts. The newly emerged shoot is separated and placed in a small pot with the same substrate.

Features: a variety of asparagus pinnate. In contrast, it has a low height and therefore does not require support. It has short shoots abundantly covered with cladodes. In pots for low asparagus, an earthen mixture is used, consisting of turf, leaf soil, peat and sand in a ratio of 1:1:1:0.5. Suitable for single and group planting.

Zinnia photophilous and heat-loving plant, does not tolerate frost. For abundant, long-term flowering, it requires soil with sufficient nutrients with a neutral reaction. The area allocated for growing zinnias is first dug up, and then humus, compost or leaf soil is added at 8-10 kg per 1 m2. From mineral fertilizers add 1 tbsp. spoon of superphosphate, potassium sulfate and nitrophoska and dig again to a depth of 10 cm.

Related concepts (continued)

Pellionia (lat. Pellionia) is a genus of flowering plants in the Nettle family (Urticaceae). The genus includes more than 20 species of evergreen perennial herbaceous plants and subshrubs, widely distributed in tropical and subtropical regions of Southeast Asia.

Currant (lat. Ríbes) is a genus of plants from the Gooseberry family (Grossulariaceae) of the order of dicotyledonous flowering plants Saxifragae.

Chamedorea (lat. Chamaedorea) is a genus of flowering plants in the Palm family (Arecaceae). Includes more than one hundred species of low-growing woody plants, widespread in South and Central America.

Saltpeter (lat. Nitrária) is a genus of halophytic plants, low shrubs of the Nitrariaceae family, in some sources it belongs to the Zygophyllaceae family.

Wittrock's violet, or garden pansy (lat. Viola × wittrockiána) is a herbaceous perennial plant of hybrid origin of the Violet family.

Many-leaved pigweed, zhminda vine, twig-shaped zhminda, strawberry spinach(lat. Blítum virgátum, Chenopódium foliósum) - herbaceous plant, a species of the genus Zhminda (Blitum), isolated from the genus Chenopodium of the Amaranthaceae family. Sometimes cultivated.

Variegated codiaum (lat. Codiaēum variegātum) is a perennial evergreen shrub; species of the genus Codiaum of the Euphorbiaceae family.

Cauliflower (Brassica oleracea L. var. botrytis L.) is a common vegetable crop, one of the cultivated varieties of the cabbage species. Belongs to the botrytis varietal group, like Romanesco.

Asian hybrids (eng. The Asiatic Hybrids) - Section I of lily varieties of complex hybrid origin according to the classification of the third edition of the International Lily Register (The International Lily Register. Third Edition. The Royal Horticultural Society. London, 1982).

Valeriana, valerian (lat. Valeriána) is a genus of perennial herbaceous plants of the Valerianoideae subfamily of the Honeysuckle family (Caprifoliaceae), including more than two hundred species. The Latin generic name comes from Lat. valere - to be healthy. It was first used in a book by the Italian botanist Matteo Silvatico (1285-1342).

Tomato, or tomato (lat. Solánum lycopérsicum) is an annual or perennial herbaceous plant, a species of the genus Solanum (Solanum) of the Solanaceae family. Cultivated as a vegetable crop.

Livistona (lat. Livistona) is a genus of perennial plants from the Palm family (Arecaceae), growing in South-East Asia, Africa, Oceania, Australia.

Large-leaved hydrangea, or large-leaved hydrangea (lat. Hydrángea macrophýlla) is a species of plants of the genus Hydrangea, family Hydrangeaceae.

Actinidia kolomikta (lat. Actinídia kolomíkta), or creeper, is a perennial shrub vine; species of the genus Actinidia. Cultivated as an ornamental and fruit plant.

Tigridia (lat. Tigridia) - a genus of perennial herbaceous bulbous plants from the Iridaceae family (Iridaceae).

Elaeagnus angustifolia (lat. Elaeágnus angustifólia), or eastern elk, or pshat (fesida) (Elaeagnus orientalis) is a species of woody plants of the genus Elaeagnus of the family Elaeagnaceae. South European-Central Asian species.

Pieris (lat. Pieris) - a genus of low evergreen shrubs or low growing trees(sometimes a liana) of the Heather family, common in Asia and North America.

Brussels sprouts (lat. Brassica oleracea var. gemmifera) is a vegetable crop. Traditionally considered as a variety of the Cabbage species (Brassica oleracea) of the Brassica genus of the Brassicaceae family; some modern sources do not consider Brussels sprouts as an independent taxon, but is considered a group of varieties of the species Brassica oleracea L., with this approach correct name This group is considered Brassica oleracea Gemmifera Group.

Planting in crop production is the planting of young plants (seedlings, seedlings), plant parts (cuttings) or organs in a permanent place (in a field, garden, flower garden, etc.) vegetative propagation plants (tubers, bulbs).

Passiflora tender, or Banana Granadilla, or Passionflower softest, or Curuba, or Tahoe (lat. Passiflora mollíssima) is a tree-like vine of the Passionflower family, producing edible fruits. Species of the genus Passion flower.

Common hazel, or hazel, or hazelnut (lat. Córylus avellána) is a species of deciduous woody shrubs and trees of the genus Hazel (Corylus) of the Birch family (Betulaceae).

Lady's slipper, or lady's slipper, or lady's slipper (lat. Cypripedium calceolus) is a perennial herbaceous plant, widespread in Eurasia from the British Isles to Pacific Ocean, a species of the genus Slipper of the Orchidaceae family.

Jerusalem artichoke, or Jerusalem artichoke, or tuberous sunflower (lat. Heliánthus tuberosus) is a species of perennial herbaceous tuberous plants of the genus Sunflower of the Asteraceae family.

Azalea (lat. Azalea) is the collective name of some beautifully flowering plant species from the genus Rhododendron. Previously, these species were classified as an independent genus of the Heather family (Ericaceae) - Azalea L..

Oxalis tetraphýlla (lat. Oxalis tetraphýlla) is a perennial bulbous herbaceous plant, a species of the genus Oxalis of the Oxalis family (Oxalidaceae).

Umbrella Pisonia (lat. Pisonia umbellifera) is an ornamental and cultural species of plant of the genus Pisonia of the Nyctaginaceae family. It has another name - Pisonia Brown.

Common horse chestnut (lat. Aésculus hippocástanum) - large deciduous tree, the most famous species of the Horse chestnut genus in Russia.

Korean chrysanthemum (lat. Chrysanthémum ×koreanum, English hardy chrysanthemums) is a group of perennial small-flowered varieties of garden chrysanthemum (lat. Chrysanthemum ×hortorum) of hybrid origin, characterized by relatively high resistance to low temperatures. Widely used in open ground cultivation.

Paulownia tomentosa, or Imperial tree (lat. Paulównia tomentósa) is a species of plants of the genus Paulownia (Paulownia) of the Paulowniaceae family.

Martagon hybrids (eng. The Martagon Hybrids) are one of the sections of lily varieties according to the classification of the third edition of the International Lily Register (The International Lily Register. Third Edition. The Royal Horticultural Society. London, 1982).

Both beginners and experienced gardeners, gardeners and hobbyists indoor flowers necessarily encounter such a concept as turf land. Many people are literally at a loss, imagining a turf, often abundantly covered with grass, which can almost be used in this form. However, in fact, this is not entirely true. Turf soil is often included in substrates that have already been prepared by someone, which are sold in gardening and flower shops and are intended for planting the most different plants. But, as you know, you can either buy the substrate or prepare it yourself, and it is still unknown which will be better. Likewise, turf land can be purchased by paying a decent amount, or you can prepare it yourself, spending some time and effort.

Turf soil is a specially prepared substrate based on turf covered with grass. © DFB

Advantages of turf soil as part of a garden mixture

How are garden mixtures different?

First, let's talk about the obvious differences between garden mixtures, because their composition is sometimes very different. Considering the main ingredient of the garden mixture, you can understand whether the mixture is sour or not. For example, if the garden mixture contains peat and there are no deoxidizers such as dolomite flour, then there is a high probability that the soil will be acidic.

And if turf soil is present as a base, this may indicate that the soil has a neutral reaction (but this is not 100%, so it is still advisable to check the acidity of the soil by analysis).

What is good about turf soil?

It is especially loved by gardeners because it contains an abundance of nutrients and is rich in minerals, is considered a light soil and moisture-permeable, although the values ​​of the latter properties are rather average.

Quite often, turf soil is the basis of many soil mixtures, and such mixtures are readily purchased by people who do not accept the acid and “uselessness” of peat.

The amount of turf soil in the soil mixture

Typically, the amount of turf soil in the soil mixture can vary greatly and range from a third to a half of the entire mixture. However, we should not forget that the turf mixture, despite its nutritional value, may be quite low in nitrogen; as a result, additional additions of this element will be required.

If we talk about the acidity of turf soil on average, then turf soil is usually (but not always) close in this indicator to compost soil, because turf soil is often formed from the same “substances” as compost, only over a period of more long period time.

How to prepare turf soil yourself?

Places for turf harvesting

The easiest way to cut the soil into pieces and collect them is in any deciduous forest area. This is where the turf forms the fastest. But it is not possible to collect turf soil “under every tree”; it is better to use soil from linden alleys, soil from under maples and various fruit plants.

As for such crops as, for example, willow or oak, it is better not to take turf there. The thing is that the turf, for the most part formed from the leaf mass of these plants, and therefore the turf soil that you will later get from the turf, is literally saturated with tannins, which always act in the same way - they inhibit the growth and development of any plant , caught in such soil.

To collect sod to obtain sod land, sometimes you don’t need to go far - the nearest forest area or even a park area, here are a couple of suitable places for collecting such land. Why? Yes, because, in essence, turf soil is a layer of turf ranging from a couple of centimeters to five centimeters thick, depending on how long trees have been growing in this place, whether it is an artificial planting or a forest.

This layer is literally permeated with small twigs, dried leaf blades, blades of grass and the remains of their parts. At its core, it is the basis for preparing turf soil suitable for growing the most different cultures and ideal for growing flower crops.

Place for harvesting turf land at the edge of the forest. © The Woodchuck Canuck

Types of turf soil

There can be several types of turf soil, depending on the place where the turf was taken to obtain it. Basically, what plays a role here is mechanical composition soils of this area. For example, you can prepare light turf soil; it will consist of clay and dust particles in an amount of about 30% by volume, the rest, as we said above, is almost ready-made humus from twigs and other things.

The second option is heavy turf soil, in which the amount of clay and dust particles can reach 60 percent or even more.

Sod land harvesting time

Of course, this is not winter, not early spring and not late autumn, the best option- it's May, that is late spring or the end of summer, that is, the month of August. They prepare turf soil from turf, that is, they literally cut the soil into squares up to five centimeters thick (in rare cases they take more), up to 15 centimeters wide and up to twenty centimeters long.

After the cut pieces of turf are delivered to their final destination, they are placed in stacks, preferably in a place where the sun shines, but for no more than a couple of hours a day. Further, these sods, in order for them to turn into full-fledged sod land, must undergo a kind of “ripening”, and this requires specific conditions.

For example, let’s take turf brought from a forest. It can be stacked in a stack of absolutely any length and width, but it is better not to make this stack more than one and a half meters high. It is best to do sod stacking closer to autumn or at its very beginning; therefore, spring harvesting is less appropriate; it is better to focus on autumn harvesting.

What to do after harvesting?

After harvesting and stacking the turf, it is necessary to moisten it with slurry, usually at square meter Sods half a meter high need a bucket of slurry. It must saturate the turf, which is necessary to start and activate the fermentation processes and speed up the preparation of the turf soil.

The second option for preparing turf soil

Its essence lies in the peculiar laying of turf. They need to be laid in rows, also in stacks, but so that the parts covered with grass, those that look up, are directed inward, that is, the grass in the stacks is turned towards the grass.

And between these layers of grass it is necessary to lay cow or horse dung a layer of 11-12 cm every 30-40 cm (in height) and so on up to a meter or one and a half - maximum. If you managed to prepare the turf, but it is acidic, then when laying it you can mix the manure with lime; you only need 40 g of it per square meter of turf.

Maturation of turf soil in a stack. © Agrostory

What are the stack sizes?

They are very different, most importantly, no more than one and a half meters in height, because higher is simply inconvenient to work with. As for the width, the optimal length is up to 110 centimeters, and the length is up to two meters. In large stacks, in addition to the inconvenience of their maintenance, it is usually much it's getting worse air exchange, and the decomposition of the turf itself is greatly slowed down.

What to do with the stack in winter?

It’s best not to touch it at all, leave it as is, don’t cover it, just wait for the heat to set in, and as soon as the air warms up to 5-8 degrees above zero, moisten it with mullein solution (3 kg per bucket of water, that’s per square meter of stack).

During the warm summer period, among other things, the stack needs to be mixed several times (two or three times). It is best and most convenient to use ordinary garden forks for this. Mixing the stack will speed up the process of converting the turf into full-fledged turf land and will allow the “feeding” to be more evenly distributed throughout the entire mass of the future turf land.

If in the summer there is weather devoid of natural moisture, that is, there is no rain for a long time, then you must definitely moisten the stack with ordinary water from a hose, trying to water it so as to wet it completely.

In some cases, two seasons are enough - that is, the first season is laying the pile in spring or autumn, the second season is tedding, and by the end of the warm second season the turf soil is ready. But sometimes, if the turf has not clearly decomposed, then it is necessary to repeat all the procedures for another season, and after it is over, the turf soil can be safely used.

If you need a little turf land

It is worth noting that if you need turf land for modest in size, for example, to update the top layer in flower pot a couple of centimeters thick, then it doesn’t need to be cooked in such a long way.

To obtain a small amount of turf soil, it is permissible to cut off a layer of turf, spread a plastic film and, holding the turf by the grass, shake the soil from a piece of turf onto the film.

Quite a lot of soil is obtained this way when cutting turf in meadows, however, if you notice that sedge or horsetail grows in this place, then rest assured that the soil here is acidic, but if legumes grow, then it will be quite suitable for use .

To obtain a small amount of turf soil, you can cut off a layer of turf and simply shake the soil out of it into a container. © Superdom

How to use turf soil?

What to do with turf soil before use?

Before use, the turf soil must be passed through a fine-mesh mesh, creating something like a screen familiar to all gardeners and gardeners. In this case, all large fractions, as well as those parts that have not decomposed, will roll down the screen, and the smallest parts will pass through it, forming a uniform free-flowing mixture.

After this, the turf soil can be folded into wooden boxes or plastic bags (like sugar bags) and be sure to put them away from sunlight. It is better to keep the bags lying on their sides so that the mixture does not compress.

On the site, that is, literally “under open air", ready-to-use turf soil should not be left. Under the influence of rain, sun and wind, as well as changes in day and night temperatures, the turf soil will lose some of its nutritional properties, become less porous, less elastic and naturally less suitable for further use as a component in the preparation of nutritious soil.

Preparation of the resulting turf land immediately before use

Usually, turf soil is not used in its pure form. True, if you have the opportunity to do chemical analysis soil in the laboratory, and the data will show that the main components in the soil you brought are present in sufficient quantities, then, in principle, such soil can be used without additional enrichment.

As a rule, they add to the turf soil various kinds“impurities” are often complex fertilizers, say, nitroammofoska, 10-15 g is enough for a bucket of turf soil. You can enter wood ash, it contains up to 5% potassium, you need 500 grams per bucket of turf soil.

Application should be accompanied by thorough mixing until the composition is homogeneous. Sometimes, to increase the amount of turf soil and loosen it somewhat, river sand is added in the amount of one part sand to three parts turf soil.

Next, we strongly recommend disinfecting the turf soil, because essentially anything can be in it, and the fact that it has lain in layers in the cold for one or two winters does not fully guarantee the destruction of pest ovipositors or disease spores.

By the way, the procedure for disinfecting turf soil must be carried out initially, before mixing it with fertilizers or river sand. The best option is to pour boiling water over it. To do this, you need the largest colander, into which you should pour turf soil and pour boiling water from a kettle. Of course, in this way you can destroy beneficial microflora, but in in this case the risk is justified and necessary.

Before use, the turf soil must be passed through a fine-mesh mesh. © Superdom

Application of turf soil

Turf soil is usually used for growing a wide variety of indoor plants and seedlings, for forcing green crops or growing vegetable crops in winter for the sake of obtaining an “out of season” harvest.

The main thing is to use the turf soil correctly, loosen the top layer more often, water it, apply fertilizers if this or that plant needs it, and when placing it in a container, be sure to initially lay a drainage layer there, the role of which can be played by expanded clay, broken brick, pebbles or other small stones.

Flower growers are often faced with the fact that turf soil or a mixture of it with various fillers is recommended for planting plants. Experienced gardeners usually have a good idea of ​​what this is, but for a beginner this concept may be new. Today we will look in detail at what turf soil means, where to get it, and what effect it has on the growth and development of plants. If this is your first time replanting a plant, it sometimes seems easier to buy a ready-made substrate in the store. In fact, the soil mixture prepared at home is no different from the one that will be offered to you in a beautiful, factory-made package.

The basis of floriculture

Mixtures for planting houseplants can vary greatly in composition. The main difference is which ingredient predominates in it. Knowing their properties well, you get the opportunity to take into account individual characteristics each potted plant and select soil in which they will develop favorably.

Turf soil is considered the main one in floriculture. It is used in the manufacture of most soil mixtures. Plants adapt very well to it, developing intensively.

Substrate differences

Sod land is a term that refers to various garden soils. At first glance, it is quite simple to remove the top layer of soil, which contains plant humus. However, garden soil can be obtained from the decomposition of turf or other organic matter. The starting substrate will influence the physical and Chemical properties the resulting soil mixture. Therefore, today we will consider several options, as well as the possibilities of optimally combining them with each other.

Sod land

It is very rich in nutrients. Moreover potted plant will be provided for several years in advance, without requiring additional fertilizing. It is obtained mainly from meadows and pastures, as well as fallow lands. The main selection criterion is the presence of grass-clover grass at the final collection sites of the substrate. However, it cannot be said that it will be the same in any case. There are:

• heavy turf substrate, which is different big amount clay;
• average;
• light, containing the most sand.

Seasonal factor

And we continue to understand the concept of turf land. What it is, where to get such a soil mixture, now we will tell you in detail. Harvesting is carried out in the summer. To do this, you need to select the period of maximum grass stand. In this case, the calculation is made in such a way that the turf will have time to partially decompose before the winter cold. But it will take much longer to obtain the finished substrate. Initially, the turf is cut into layers 20 cm wide and 8 cm thick. Now you need to stack it in stacks up to 1.5 meters high. To speed up decomposition, the layers are moistened with a solution of slurry. Another task is to reduce acidity. To do this, add lime. Next summer you need to properly shovel the stack 2-3 times. Only after two seasons will it be ready for use. In the second year, in the fall, it is recommended to pass it through a screen and put it indoors.

Gathering place

You already know what turf land is, but collected in different places, it will be very different. It must be cut in the clover patch, where the grass grows especially lushly and does not have a nutritional deficiency. This can be easily assessed by its appearance. The entire grass stand should be bright green, without yellowness and spots, specks and dry tips. If the grasses in the meadows available to you are low-growing, begin to turn yellow and dry out early, then there is no point in taking land here. It is poor in nutrients.

The location of the meadow also plays an important role. Since turf soil can only be prepared directly in the meadow, choose the most high places. In swampy lowlands the soil will be too acidic. Medium loams will be optimal in their composition. Sandy loam turf is characterized by high water and air permeability, but at the same time it is poor in nutrients, for which it is used in gardening.

Leaf humus

As you can see, preparing turf land is not difficult; you only need access to open meadow land. If there is nothing like this near you, then you can try similar mixtures, which are also perfectly accepted by house plants. Now we will discuss in detail what substrate is used to replace turf soil. First of all, it is leafy soil. It is distinguished by its looseness and lightness. On the other hand, this shortcoming can be easily corrected by mixing various mixtures and obtaining the optimal composition. Especially good results produces leaf humus mixed with heavy, turf soil. Flower growers often use leaf soil mixed with peat and sand. The result is an analogue of heather mixture, light and nutritious.

Blank

Even in urban conditions, you can easily find a place to harvest leaf soil. If you can go outside the city, into the forest, then here you can find its natural deposits. Year after year, the leaves fall and rot under the trees, forming a nutrient layer. In city parks, collection can be carried out during the period of mass leaf fall in parks and gardens. The most suitable are linden and maple leaves, fruit trees. But willow and oak are completely unsuitable for these purposes.

Collected leaves or forest litter are formed into piles and moistened with slurry. All that remains is to compact the stack well and leave it until next summer. Over the next warm season, you will need to thoroughly shovel the leaf mass several times, moisten it with slurry and add lime. That is, you will only get high-quality leaf soil by the end of the second summer.

compost soil

Summer residents use this term quite often, so we will mention it too. Compost is an analogue of turf and leaf soil. They have the same essence - they are rotted remains of plant organic matter. The quality of compost soil depends on the type of waste, that is, the material used. This is an intermediate link between turf and humus soil.

To prepare it you will need a compost pit, although some gardeners use heaps or stacks. During the summer, all plant and animal remains, weeds and garbage, and food waste are collected in them. As the residue accumulates, it is sprinkled with lime and moistened with slurry, and covered with peat on top. In the second and third years, the mass needs to be shoveled. By the end of the third year, the land is completely ready for use. Now you already know what turf and leaf soil are, how to prepare compost, and you can choose a substrate base for your home plants.

Preparing a mixture for plants

So, it's time to land. Gardeners usually start doing this in the spring. The soil prepared in the fall is heated, disinfected and prepared from it ideal substrate. The main characteristics are:

• Moisture capacity. The soil should easily absorb water. Do not let it pass through you, as is the case with sand, but do not retain it, as clay does.
• Water and breathability. This is understandable; the substrate must be loose to provide air access to the roots.
• Nutritional value.
• Suitable pH level (most often lack of acidity).
• Purity, that is, the absence of toxic substances.

Optimal proportions

Most often, turf soil is mixed 1:1 with a component such as leaf humus. This is easy to explain, since it acts as a leavening agent. Some gardeners recommend adding soil from molehills in similar proportions. It is loose and nutritious, and also does not contain pest larvae. Humus is another important component. This is a black, homogeneous mass that is obtained from well-decomposed manure. It is very nutritious, but often contains weed seeds and pathogens, so it is extremely important to ignite the mixture before use.

Baking powder

In order to ensure optimal soil breathability, it is necessary to maintain the proportions of turf soil and sand. It is important that only Fine is used, this will only make the substrate more dense. Before adding to the soil, the sand is washed well. This is necessary in order to wash away all the dust and leave the necessary small pebbles. In this form, it is added to almost all mixtures for indoor plants, providing better breathability.