Why salt the beds before planting onion sets. How to properly treat onions before planting against diseases and pests. Treating onions with tobacco dust

Why salt the beds before planting onion sets.  How to properly treat onions before planting against diseases and pests.  Treating onions with tobacco dust
Why salt the beds before planting onion sets. How to properly treat onions before planting against diseases and pests. Treating onions with tobacco dust

Vegetables and various herbaceous plants are an integral part of the whole diversity culinary dishes. Most widespread from vegetable crops Among the summer residents it was the onion that got it. This plant has a lot of useful vitamins. Bulbs and leaves are used when preparing salads, onions are used as an addition to meat and vegetable dishes. But before onions appear on the summer resident’s table, they must be grown. And it is necessary to grow the plant taking into account the basic rules and recommendations so that the crop does not die from fungal diseases. In order to protect and preserve the seedlings, a soaking procedure is carried out before planting.

What to soak onions in?

Summer residents did not have a consensus on whether it is worth soaking before planting or not. We can say that the general circle of specialists is divided into two camps. Some argue that before planting, seedlings must be treated with a special solution. Others say that it is not necessary to soak the onions; the crop will grow anyway.

Attention! Remember that soaking is a guarantee that the harvest will be preserved in any case, since treated seedlings are not afraid of fungal diseases.

In fact, soaking is a precautionary measure for the summer resident himself. After all, when buying planting material The buyer faces a lot of unresolved questions: in what conditions did the onions grow, how and with what was fertilizing done. Therefore, many people prefer not to take risks and carry out the soaking procedure, which is carried out immediately before planting.

Soak the onion in a salt and manganese solution

Almost every day, lovers of growing various herbal crops come up with more and more new ways to protect themselves from unforeseen expenses, and how to protect the cultivated crop from various fungal diseases. But the most effective and effective method Soaking the onion in a saline or manganese solution is considered.

Attention! Onions can be processed only if all planting material has been previously trimmed. All efforts to protect onions will be nullified if the bulbs are not trimmed, because in this case inner part culture will remain defenseless.

To soak onions in saline solution you need:

  1. Pour three cups of salt into a 10-liter bucket of water.
  2. Move the solution, place all the planting material and leave for two days for a more effective result.
  3. Before planting, water the area with saline solution. This will help prevent it from occurring over time.

Enough simple procedure, which will help disinfect onions from nematodes. It’s even easier with potassium permanganate. This method of soaking is the most popular, because it requires a minimum of time and available materials. The temperature of the water does not matter; potassium permanganate is simply added until the composition receives a slightly concentrated color. After which the onion heads are placed in the solution for 20 minutes.

Treating beds with kerosene

Onion fly – worst enemy this culture. Sometimes a regular saline solution is not enough to combat an illness. Then summer residents use heavy artillery - treating previously prepared furrows with a mixture of kerosene and salt. To prepare this solution, you only need to dissolve 2 tablespoons of kerosene and a glass of salt in a bucket of water. The composition is thoroughly mixed, after which watering occurs.

Kerosene – excellent remedy fight against onion fly. Its pungent smell repels the fly once and for all. Plus, many vegetable crops love salted soil. Salted water repels not only the main pest, but also a lot of other dangerous and harmful bacteria. Thus, kerosene with salt helps reliable protection and ensures good yield.

Soaking onions on greens

Fragrant leeks have an excellent taste and smell. The crop is grown mainly from seeds. Before planting, the seeds must be placed in warm water for 5 hours.

Advice. Soaking in warm water It is the most in an economical way. To carry out this procedure, you only need water at a temperature of 40-50 degrees. You don’t even need to add any drugs. Warm water alone is enough to disinfect the seedlings.

Often people who like to grow onions use synthesized analogues of natural remedies -. This adaptogen stimulates the growth of the root system and the plant itself. To prepare the composition, you need to dissolve one adaptogen capsule in warm water, then soak all the planting material.

Soaking onions in warm water is economical and quite effective method

To prevent onions from rotting after planting, the material is pre-soaked in a solution wood ash. For a 10-liter bucket of water, 3 cups of ash is enough. The seedlings are placed directly in a net in a container for 2-3 hours. After which they must be thoroughly dried on a thick cloth.

The benefits of soaking onions are obvious. Simple, but effective procedure will protect the crop, promote a good harvest, and save a lot of time. Any of the above recipes can be used as a solution, but experienced onion growers often combine several methods simultaneously to completely eliminate the possibility of various diseases Luke.

Preparing onions for planting - video

Soaking onions before planting - photo

Onions are one of the most common vegetable crops. It is grown in almost every garden. Often this crop is attacked by a dangerous pest - the onion fly. It can negate the efforts of the gardener and destroy the harvest. Our task is to help cope with this problem.

Onion fly - onion pest

Onion fly is widespread and dangerous pest not only ordinary onions, but also other bulbous crops:

  • shallot;
  • chives;
  • garlic;
  • leek;
  • tulips;
  • irises, etc.

The fly itself is a two-winged insect small size(up to 7 mm) ash-gray or yellow-gray in color, which is very similar to a regular housefly.

The onion fly looks like a regular housefly

In one season, they develop from one - in cold regions - to three - in the southern regions - generations of the insect. Pupae (puparia, false cocoons) overwinter in upper layers soil. The first flight of flies occurs in April - May. This usually happens during the flowering period of cherries, acacias, and dandelions. Immediately after departure, mating occurs. After which the female lays 10-15 eggs at a time on onion seedlings or in the soil. They white

and have a size of up to one millimeter. In 2-4 weeks, one insect lays up to 60 eggs.

Favorable conditions for the development of an onion fly embryo are air temperature 18-22 °C and humidity 75-80%. Under such conditions, after 6-8 days, larvae up to 10 mm long appear, which immediately penetrate the bulb through the bases of the leaves or from the bottom.

It is the larvae that harm the crop, but when they appear it is too late to fight. Their development continues for two to three weeks. During this time, they can cause significant damage to onion beds.

Onion fly larvae penetrate the bulb through the base of the leaves or from the bottom

After this, the larvae go into the ground, where they form pupae.

Onion fly larvae form pupae in the ground

Protecting onions from onion flies when planting

As is clear from the description of the pest, control of it should be carried out at the stages of pupa and imago, since nothing can be done with the larva that has penetrated the bulb. Imago (lat. imago - “image”) is the adult (definitive) stage of individual development of insects and some other arthropods with complex life cycle

. At this stage, animals become capable of reproduction (except in cases of neoteny) and, often, dispersal. Adults do not molt or grow.

Wikipedia

https://ru.wikipedia.org/wiki/Imago

How to plant onions without onion flies If you take certain preventive measures before planting, it is quite possible to prevent onion damage. onion fly


. To do this you need: IN last years I plant onions before winter (dacha in eastern Ukraine). In the fall, I prepare the bed by plowing with an electric cultivator to a depth of 18 centimeters, while simultaneously adding humus to the soil (one bucket per square meter), superphosphate (30-40 g/m2) and wood ash (1-2 l/m2). I level the bed with a rake, and then use a flat cutter to form grooves 5-8 centimeters deep. With the first frost, I plant onion sets, disinfecting them in advance with a solution of potassium permanganate. I fill the grooves with the mixture

garden soil

and humus. I prepare this mixture in advance and store it in a relatively warm place until planting. I cover the beds with spruce branches or spunbond. In the spring, several times after watering or rain, I sprinkle the beds with sifted wood ash. I do not use any other treatments. I have no problems with onion flies (and I also do not encounter other onion pests or diseases). Apparently, its pupae - if they exist - die after digging when frost sets in.

In order to protect onions from this pest, in addition to following the planting rules outlined above, you need to carry out appropriate treatments.

How to treat onions against onion flies

To combat the onion fly during its flight, insecticides (pest control agents) are used. This should be done with caution, observing the waiting period for the drug used. For onions grown for feathers, insecticides are not used, limiting themselves to folk remedies.

Alatar is a broad-spectrum insecticide that is effective in combating almost all pests of garden plants. To process onions, prepare a solution of 5 ml of the drug in 4 liters of water. This amount should be enough for 100 m2, provided that a sprayer is used. After treatment, it is not washed off by rain and retains protective effect

within ten days. Usually one application per season is sufficient. The maximum allowed number of treatments is two. The waiting period before eating the vegetable is three weeks.

Alatar is a broad-spectrum insecticide This insecticide also has a wide range of effects on pests of a wide variety of crops. The drug is safe for people and animals. Spark Double Effect contains active potassium and trace elements, which promotes rapid recovery

plants after an attack by pests, and also improves immunity. Before use, one tablet of the drug is dissolved in a small amount of warm water, then water is added to ten liters. The waiting period is 20 days.

Insecticide Iskra Double effect can be used to treat onions 20 days before harvest

An organic insectoacaricide that acts almost instantly. A fly or larva that has eaten a microscopic dose of Fitoverm becomes paralyzed and dies within a few hours. The drug itself is unstable and decomposes in two days; it does not accumulate in soil and fruits. The waiting period is 2-3 days. Can be used at any stage of the growing season. For 100 m2 of onion beds, a solution of 16 ml in 4 liters of water is required.

A fly or larva that has eaten a microscopic dose of Fitoverm becomes paralyzed and dies within a few hours

Folk remedies for onion fly control If the onion fly has not been noticed in the garden, you should not get carried away with chemicals.

Often it is quite possible to get by with folk remedies.

Treating onions with ammonia As in other applications, dosages in the sources are very diverse. The minimum is one tablespoon per bucket of water, the maximum is five. Based on this, you can settle on the “golden mean” - 3 tablespoons of ammonia per bucket of water. The solution is poured into a garden watering can and the onion bed is watered, using 5 l/m2. Pre-water the bed with water. Several treatments are carried out with an interval of 7-10 days, and the first treatment is timed to coincide with the beginning of the flight of the onion fly.

To treat onions against onion flies, use a solution of 3 tablespoons of ammonia in a bucket of water.

Processing onions with potassium permanganate

Dissolve one teaspoon of potassium permanganate in a bucket of water and water the bed in the same way as ammonia. The first treatment is carried out immediately after planting the onions, then two more with an interval of 7-10 days. But the effectiveness of treatment with potassium permanganate against onion fly is questionable and is not confirmed by reviews from gardeners.

A solution of potassium permanganate is used to treat onions against onion flies.

How to pour kerosene on an onion to prevent a fly

The smell of kerosene repels onion flies. To process, dissolve 2-3 tablespoons of kerosene in a bucket of water and carefully pour the onion under the root. This is done when the feather grows to 10-15 centimeters.

Re: Fighting onion and carrot flies

That's how much pepper and mustard you need, even in a good layer, and several times. I do it easier - several times a season I spray a solution of 1 tbsp kerosene. spoon on a bucket of water. Both carrots and onions. I just water it with a sprinkler with small holes, trying to get it on the soil. Last year there was no fly anywhere. And in 2010 I was left without carrots, because as soon as I spilled the onions.

Elvi, Tomsk

http://fialka.tomsk.ru/forum/viewtopic.php?t=23362

The smell of kerosene repels onion flies

Ash treatment

Many claim the effectiveness of wood ash in the fight against onion flies. It’s even better to add one teaspoon of ground red pepper and tobacco dust to one glass of ash. Treatments begin during the flight of the onion fly and are repeated several times with an interval of one week. In this case, the composition is scattered between the onion rows and the soil is loosened. Not prevent additional processing infusion of 0.5 liters of ash in one bucket of water. You can water the onions with this solution from a watering can twice a week. This treatment is also useful because the onion simultaneously receives root and foliar feeding

valuable potash fertilizer.

Wood ash is effective in controlling onion flies

The onion fly is a rather unpleasant pest that sometimes annoys the gardener. By using simple prevention methods, including treatments with insecticides and folk remedies, you can avoid the appearance of this insect on the site.

So that the onion grows quickly, develops and gives good harvest, in the spring it needs to be properly prepared. If you purchased a set, you must first dry it. And if you grew the sets yourself and stored them at a temperature of about +18 °C, then the onions will have to be warmed up. The next steps are the same for both purchased and self-grown onions; they need to be seasoned:

  • 2 weeks at +20 °C,
  • 10 hours at + 40 °C.

If you overcook the onion, it will dry out. After this, treat the seedlings with any growth stimulant suitable for this crop (Zircon, Tsitovit, Biostim). If suddenly you cannot carry out step-by-step preparation sevka, then do the following:

  1. Soak the sets in water at a temperature of about +45 °C for 15 minutes;
  2. Immerse the seed in ice water for 10 minutes;
  3. Place the seedlings for 4–6 hours in a solution of complex mineral fertilizer.

Growth stimulator "Zircon"

A very important procedure that you need to carry out before landing seed material– disinfection. You can treat the bulbs in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Soaking onions before planting in such an antiseptic solution will help protect the seed from many diseases. Dilute about 30 g in 10 liters of water until the mixture turns light purple. After this, dip the seed in the solution for a couple of minutes, then remove and rinse it. After a week you can start planting.

To avoid rotting of the crop, you will need a solution of wood ash - dilute about 500 g of ash in 10 liters of water. After this, transfer the onion into a mesh and place it in the prepared solution. Then dry the seed material in the sun for a couple of hours and you can start planting.

There is another, “grandmother’s” method:

  1. Dry the planting material for a week at a temperature of about +25 °C;
  2. Before planting, you need to soak the bulbs for 3 hours in a saline solution (prepare it by mixing 2 liters of water with 2 tablespoons of salt);
  3. Wash the seed and dry it;
  4. You can start planting.

If you don’t have potassium permanganate or wood ash on hand, you can use other soaking methods. For example, saltpeter is suitable. To prepare the solution you need to take about 70 liters of warm water (about +40 °C). Place just a spoonful of saltpeter in the water and soak the seed in the solution for about 20–30 minutes. This treatment will disinfect root system plants. However, this method is only suitable if you are going.

Soaking onions in saltpeter before planting

You can treat onions using the drug “Epin-Extra”: dissolve the capsule in warm water, immerse the onion in water for just 10–15 minutes. This will not only accelerate the growth of the root system and strengthen it, but also help the development of green onion feathers. To prevent early bolting, place the seed in a metal container, fill with water and heat to approximately +60 °C. Then treat the material with a suitable growth stimulant (for example, Silcom or Biostim).

The most economical processing option is to soak the onions in plain water. Just keep the bulbs for 10 minutes in plain water (temperature about +50 °C), without adding any drugs or fertilizers. After this, you can safely plant the seed in the soil. And remember that the seeds should not be treated with several compounds, as this will negatively affect the quality of the seed.

Preparing onions for planting by soaking should be carried out in parallel with soil preparation. It is important to remember that this plant is light-loving, so the place where you will plant the sets should be well lit. Onions also love loose and nutritious soil, so you need:

  • first dig the bed to a depth of 20 cm;
  • add fertilizer (or peat manure compost) to the soil.

An important point is that it is necessary to fertilize the soil at the stage of soil preparation, and in order to avoid rapid growth green mass of the crop, you should not use any organic fertilizers. It is best to feed the soil using mineral additives with a low nitrogen content. Remember that this plant does not like soil that is too acidic. If you are “lucky enough” to become the owner of a plot with acidic soil, one of the following components must be added to the beds before planting seed material:

  • lime;
  • wood ash;
  • dolomite flour.

And remember that you cannot add manure and lime to the soil at the same time, as this will lead to a decrease in the level of nitrogen in fertilizers. But this rule does not apply to other means of reducing acidity, so when fertilizing the beds with manure, you can use chalk, ash or dolomite flour.

No garden can be imagined without onions. This healthy vegetable included in the recipes of many dishes, and is also an excellent medicine, having no contraindications and side effects. Onion capable of good care give excellent harvest, because it is resistant to adverse weather conditions and is not too picky about the soil. Onions can be damaged by more than 50 types of pests and diseases. Highest value have pests and diseases of the underground parts of onions grown for turnips: onion root mite, larvae of flies (onion and hoverflies), bottom rot. Pests and diseases of leaves - onion munchkin, tobacco (onion) thrips, onion downy mildew, smut. During storage, onion mites and gray neck rot can cause significant damage. Depending on the classification and stage of the disease, you should know how and with what to treat onions against pests, what diseases there are.

Disease-resistant onion varieties

Separately, it is worth highlighting winter varieties of onions, thanks to the cultivation of which it is possible to obtain fresh onions for the table all year round, in particular, at the beginning of summer, when winter supplies of vegetables have already come to an end. Early ripening winter varieties are sown in the 2-3 decades of August, late ripening ones - in February and March. The most successful and popular varieties include “Glasir”, “Ellan”, “Swift”, “Alike”, “Radar”, “Yurzhek”, “Eldorado”, “Stimul”.

Pay special attention to the universal varieties of domestic selection Mavka and Lyubchik. Mavka - mid-season ( growing season 102-114 days) high-yielding variety red salad onion. The bulbs are flat-rounded, dense, weighing 75-100 g. Forms powerful outer scales that protect the bulb well during storage. The inner scales are thick, very juicy and crispy. Suitable for long-term storage, processing and fresh consumption. Lyubchik - mid-early variety(85-100 days), recommended for growing as an annual crop from seeds and sets. The bulbs are dense, elongated-oval, weighing 100-150 g, semi-sharp taste. Dry scales are yellow, juicy scales are white, with green in the upper part. The variety is valued for its excellent taste. Suitable for long-term storage.

Fusarium bottom rot of onions

The disease is caused by a bacterium in the soil that affects the tops of the plant and leads to the death of the feather along the entire length, as well as to the rotting of the turnip, the bulb becomes softer and more watery, and characteristic rot of the bottom of the onion appears. The causes influencing the occurrence of the disease are:

  • excess moisture in the soil;
  • untimely harvesting;
  • poor quality planting material;
  • The growing season takes place in hot weather.

Carry out preventive measures while preparing the soil for planting. Use chemicals for soil treatment - 2% Iprodione (use according to instructions), TMTD fungicide will disinfect the soil and seeds, prepare a suspension in equal parts of water and the drug, not compatible with drugs containing copper. 0.5% copper sulfate disinfects the soil (dilute 50 g of the substance in 10 liters of water).

Follow the rules to prevent fusarium onion:

  • disinfect planting material (potassium permanganate solution, Fitosporin);
  • use early and early ripening onion varieties;
  • treat the soil before planting (the techniques are listed above);
  • alternate onion planting sites;
  • loosen and weed the beds;
  • harvest in a timely manner.

The disease may appear after harvesting and spread to healthy bulbs; observe storage conditions - place the onions in wooden boxes, the room must be ventilated, constant temperature +5 ° C, air humidity 60%.

Gray rot on onions

The infection persists well on planting material, infecting the soil and, accordingly, the entire crop through loosely closed scales. When you press on the turnip, the skin bends in the neck area, and a gray coating is visible on the surface.

The fight against the disease consists of the following measures:

  • disinfection of seedlings before planting;
  • soil enrichment with phosphorus-potassium fertilizer;
  • timely removal of damaged plants from the plantation;
  • moderate watering and control of soil moisture levels;
  • proper collection of root crops;
  • airing and drying the onions after assembly;
  • creating conditions for storing crops;
  • periodic bulkheading to remove rotten turnips.

Black rot on onions

Bulbs are affected by this disease mainly when stored improperly. Namely, heat and poor ventilation. First, the affected bulbs become soft, and then the scales dry out, the entire bulb mummifies and a black, dusty mass forms between the scales. The causative agent of aspargillosis is a very common mold that is transmitted both through direct contact and through the air. The most susceptible to this disease are unripe, thick-necked, poorly dried bulbs.

Control and prevention measures:

  • thorough preparation of onions for storage (warming and drying at recommended temperatures);
  • disinfection of onion storage premises;
  • strict adherence to temperature and humidity storage conditions.

The best protection for onions from diseases and pests is to carry out preventive measures. The main thing is to know how to treat the onion before putting it in the ground. To harvested stored as long as possible and not subject to rotting, it must be dried and stored in a room with good ventilation.

Powdery mildew on onions

Sometimes powdery mildew or downy mildew can spread to onion plantings. Such diseases must be combated immediately after their detection, since the onion affected by the fungus is no longer suitable for consumption. If there is powdery mildew in the garden bed, then at an advanced stage of the disease it can spread to other plants. Downy mildew is considered the most harmful and common disease that can affect varieties such as onion, batun, slime and set.

There are ways to protect onions, and gardeners should know how to protect their plantings. First of all, it is necessary to inspect the onion daily: it can indicate the presence of powdery mildew. appearance. The onion feathers may become yellowish, stained or rusty. Powdery mildew can even attack landings perennial onion. If it becomes noticeable that the onion is turning yellow, this possible sign fungal disease. To prevent rust from attacking, you need to treat the plants with anti-fungal preparations.

What to do and how to treat onions if they turn yellow

If the calendar shows August-September, then summer residents should not worry about the question of why the onions in the garden turn yellow. This is a natural process, the crop is ripe and will soon need to be harvested.

But if it’s the beginning of summer and the onions are turning yellow, then you need to decide what to water with in order to cope with this problem. After all, such a process - serious problem, which can leave gardeners without a harvest.

How to treat onions if they turn yellow due to pests

First you need to decide who got into it. It could be:

  • onion fly;
  • onion proboscis and thrips;
  • stem nematode;
  • onion moth.

A general tip to reduce exposure to all pests is that it should not be planted in the same bed every year. The minimum time it is advisable to keep a bed without onions is 4 years. Then it is more likely that it will not turn yellow due to pests remaining in the soil.

Treatment of plantings against onion flies, hoverflies and their larvae is carried out using the drugs Fufanon, Bazudin. Number of procedures – 2. To combat pests like onion moths, a working solution based on Iskra M is suitable. A solution of karbofos is used against caterpillars, the secretive proboscis, and its larvae. From small pests It is recommended to treat onions with a solution of colloidal sulfur. It is practically impossible to control them with standard fungicides.

Among the folk remedies for protecting culture, an infusion of tobacco and ground black pepper can be distinguished. It is prepared as follows:

  • Steam 200 g of tobacco in 3 liters of water.
  • After three days, add 1 tsp to the resulting infusion. black pepper and 1 tbsp. l. liquid soap.
  • Add another 10 liters of water to the mixture and filter.
  • The plants are sprayed.

Treating onion sets before planting against onion flies ======================================================== ============= Every garden owner grows onions, but not everyone manages to protect the crop from pests. The most damage comes from the onion fly, which can destroy most of the bulbs. How to treat onion flies before planting? A good preventative measure against this insect would be to dig up the beds with the addition of ash and sawdust. coniferous trees. Resinous sawdust is not liked not only by the onion fly, but also by other insect pests. In addition, this mixture perfectly fertilizes the soil. You can also treat onion sets before planting. Chemicals For processing onion sets, onion sets are not used, as this is harmful to human health. The best prevention of onion fly damage is to adhere to crop rotation, returning this crop to its original place every 5 years. For planting, you need to use only healthy sets. To destroy spores, larvae and other “troubles” on the onion set, before planting it must be treated in the following way: water is heated to a temperature of 45-46°C and the set is kept in it for 15 minutes. If the water is hot (50-52°C), it is enough to warm the onion for 3-5 minutes. All diseased onions are thrown away; they cannot be planted. Before planting, you can additionally sprinkle the onion sets with shag (tobacco) dust. You can mix it with ash and also use it to treat planting material against onion flies. After planting, it is useful to spill between the rows onion plantings with the same composition, spending approximately 0.1-0.2 kg of mixture per “square”. Many gardeners use a time-tested method for processing onion sets - soaking in a solution of potassium permanganate. The prepared sets are soaked in the solution for 15 minutes, after which the bulbs are washed with water and slightly dried. If the seedlings were planted without treatment, after planting you can water the bed with a solution of potassium permanganate, repeating it every 10 days. Despite criticism from gardeners, it is not a bad idea to plant onion sets and carrots, alternating rows. These are “mutually beneficial” plants that cope well with pests. But if such “neighborhood” does not help, you need to take more decisive measures to combat the onion fly. The regular onion fly copes well with salt. Only it is not the seedling itself that is treated, but the row spacing after planting this crop. In a 10-liter bucket you need to dissolve 0.2 kg of salt and carefully pour the ridge, making sure that the solution does not end up on the bulbs (if they are not buried deeply, then the apical part of the bulb may appear on the surface). After 3 hours the bed needs to be watered clean water. The procedure is repeated after 10 days. Interestingly, the onion fly cannot stand the smell of tomato tops. You can plant the sets near a ridge with tomatoes, which is a natural way to protect against the onion fly, or several tomato bushes are planted directly on the ridge. It is very difficult to fight the onion fly, so it is easier to carry out preventive treatment of the sets in order to minimize the likelihood of this pest appearing.