Exhaust ventilation of a finished wooden house. How to properly organize ventilation in a wooden house? Types of ventilation by purpose and area of effect
Ventilation is one of the factors that ensure comfortable living in a house. Thanks to ventilation, exhaust air flows, including carbon dioxide, vapors, and foreign odors, exit the building. Instead, fresh air enters the house.
Types of ventilation
Ventilation systems are classified into two types and one intermediate type:
- natural air exchange;
- forced air exchange;
- combined devices (a combination of natural and traction stimulation).
Each of the listed varieties is characterized by both advantages and disadvantages. If the building is located in an environmentally friendly area, the best choice is a device with natural impulse. However, if the air in the environment is polluted, it is better to opt for a forced ventilation system.
Natural air exchange
Natural impulse is the traditional way of air exchange in the house. Air flows through cracks and openings in the building's building elements, and exhaust is carried out through ventilation ducts located in kitchens and sanitary facilities. The draft occurs due to the difference between the temperature and pressure levels inside and outside the building.
Note! Air ducts must not be laid horizontally or at an angle. Excessive duct irregularities lead to a decrease in the efficiency of the ventilation system.
Diagram of air movement in a wooden house
Advantages of natural ventilation:
- The system cost is low
- Installation is not difficult.
- A properly installed system will allow you to regulate heat exchange in all rooms of the building, even where there are no heating devices (corridor, staircases, etc.).
- Clean air, first of all, enters the rooms where it is most needed (living room, bedroom).
- An optimal microclimate is provided in the premises, since ventilation allows you to achieve a comfortable level of humidity.
Disadvantages of natural ventilation:
- There is no way to regulate the intensity of air flows; it is difficult to combat drafts and dust penetration into the room.
- There is also a problem with heat leaks. In winter and summer, air exchange is activated, but in spring and summer stagnation is observed in the interior. Artificial injection with the help of fans can correct the situation, but this does not solve the problem of heat loss in winter.
- Houses made of laminated veneer lumber are airtight. Therefore, it is impossible for air to enter the room through construction gaps. The situation can be corrected by using supply wall valves.
Note! Ventilation ducts are installed in kitchen and sanitary rooms, as well as storage rooms. It is desirable that these rooms are located close to each other, then the system can be connected into a single circuit. Separate hoods are required for boiler rooms and fireplace rooms.
Forced ventilation
Forced injection of air masses has a number of advantages compared to natural ventilation. Such a system is characterized by greater efficiency and is independent of weather conditions. Forced ventilation is the only possible option if the air in the environment is polluted. Due to filtration, only clean air free of unpleasant odors will penetrate into the premises.
Types of forced ventilation:
- monoblock device;
- typesetting device.
Monoblock supply and exhaust systems are ideal for small buildings because they are compact. All the main components of such a device (including heater, humidifiers, filters, recuperator) are located inside a soundproof housing. As a result, a low-noise installation can be placed near residential premises.
Kit systems include air ducts, exhaust and supply units, air heaters, filters, humidifiers, and sound insulation. The operating principle of such a system is to extract air for treatment from the street using a supply fan. The air is filtered, heated or cooled to the desired temperature, and then supplied to the premises.
Exhaust air ducts are directed from the kitchen, sanitary facilities, boiler rooms and other similar rooms, forming a single system with access to the attic. For camouflage, air channels are laid under a suspended or suspended ceiling.
Combined ventilation
In addition to the exhaust system, natural ventilation can be installed. The latter is used only if necessary, when the exhaust system does not fully cope with its functions. Combined devices are recommended for installation in cases where polluted air masses dominate in the room (kitchen, sanitary unit, boiler room).
Ground floor
Creating a plinth requires increased costs, but ultimately provides significant additional space. Usually, in houses made of laminated veneer lumber, basement rooms are not provided, but they can be created if desired.
A ventilation system is required for the base. Both forced and natural methods of ventilating rooms are used. Natural ventilation is carried out through vents, when every 2-3 meters there is an opening for air exchange. If the building is located in a low area, a higher density of air vents is provided. The inlet hole is made under the ceiling, and the pipe goes out onto the roof.
If the ventilation system is working properly, its operation is almost unnoticeable. However, as soon as the air movement is disrupted, it becomes noticeable: condensation appears on the walls, the air in the building becomes damp, and the well-being of residents worsens due to lack of oxygen. Therefore, you need to take care of creating ventilation ducts at the stage of creating a house project.
Not so long ago, owners of wooden houses did not have any headaches regarding the installation of a ventilation system (SV) - air exchange occurred naturally through the cracks between the crowns, non-hermetically installed doors and windows. Today, with the improvement of construction technology, many weak points in timber buildings are eliminated by qualified specialists; modern windows and doors impede the natural flow of air into the house. It turns out that having partially solved the issue of reducing heat losses, we have to think about the ventilation device for a house made of timber.
Options for ventilation systems used in timber houses
Let us immediately make a reservation that the design and installation of ventilation systems should be carried out by qualified specialists. This is especially appropriate when installing complex recirculation systems that involve reducing heat losses during air exchange. When choosing this option, it is worthwhile to separately provide places for the location of equipment, because its dimensions can be large - there are a lot of nuances. A place in the attic or a separate room is allocated for it. It is also necessary to understand that ventilation and heating in a house made of timber, as in fact, in any residential building, are interrelated concepts that must be considered comprehensively. Below we have provided a small plate with a brief description of the main ventilation options used for wooden houses.
| Encouraging air movement | Features of operation | Short description | Advantages | Flaws |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Natural | supply and exhaust | Ventilation of the premises of the house is carried out without the use of special equipment. Air exchange occurs due to the difference in weight of cold and warm air, provided there are ventilation holes or due to open windows, etc. | Simplicity, low device and maintenance costs. Ideal option for small country houses made of timber | Inability to control air exchange, large heat losses. The presence of drafts or, on the contrary, air stagnation due to the tightness of window and door units |
| Forced | inlet | The supply or exhaust of air is carried out artificially using ventilation equipment (fans) | Possibility of pre-filtration of incoming air and regulation of air exchange in individual rooms. Relatively low cost | Large heat losses, system dependence on power supply, noise from fans |
| exhaust | Air exchange control. Low cost | The same as for the supply air + the impossibility of additional air purification | ||
| supply and exhaust with recuperator | The most advanced type of ventilation system for a house made of timber. In the recuperator, heat is transferred from the exhaust air to the air being pumped into the house | Energy efficiency, air quality and volume control. Such systems are most often installed in large two-story houses made of timber. | Costly installation and maintenance. Requires additional space for equipment installation. Noise problems |
As we have already said, modern windows and doors, as well as their installation technologies, are an almost impenetrable barrier that prevents air from entering the house from the outside. To correct the situation, windows are installed with an infiltrator built into their design - an adjustable ventilation hole for air flow. There is another approach, when the supply valves are installed directly into the hole in the wall.
Ventilation in a house made of timber is arranged in such a way that the air flows from a cleaner room, for example, a bedroom, living room, to wet ones, such as a kitchen, a bathroom. The main requirement for ventilation systems is the unhindered movement of air from the supply elements to the exhaust elements, i.e. avoiding the formation of places with a stagnant microclimate. For this purpose, for example, there are gaps under interior doors. Another option is to use overflow grilles and vents connecting separate rooms.
Mistakes made when installing a ventilation system
A competent approach implies that the SV device will be thought out at the stage of designing a house made of timber. But in Russian realities, when every penny counts, everything happens “through the most unusual places” - the developer thinks about ventilation at the very last moment. The minimum configuration of the heating system must include at least ventilation ducts in wet rooms. We list some errors associated with the installation of SV elements:
- Natural draft in ventilation ducts is influenced by both the height of the pipe above the roof and the shape of the roof slope. Long pipe outlets do not look aesthetically pleasing, and short ones can lead to backdraft. The complex geometry of the roof can affect the change in the trajectory of air flows, which will reduce the efficiency of the ventilation system of a house made of timber;
- in most cases, natural ventilation works worse in the warm season, this is especially true for large buildings. Therefore, forced air exchange should be provided in houses for permanent residence;
- It is better to avoid installing a common ventilation duct for the bathroom and other rooms, because any malfunctions in the operation of the heating system will immediately affect the comfort of living;
- ventilation openings must be located at least 150 mm from the ceiling. This is the only way to ensure effective natural air exchange, regardless of the room temperature
conclusions
From all of the above it is clear that the ventilation system in any residential building is not an easy thing. If for a country house everything is more or less transparent, then for large cottages it is better to play it safe and make a normal SV project. But you can do the installation work yourself.
Plastic windows and armored doors, on the one hand, maintain the desired temperature in the premises, and on the other hand, they create problems with air exchange. A well-designed hood in a private home will eliminate the feeling of mustiness and condensation. In most cases, this is the only way to create a healthy microclimate in it.
We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the options for exhaust devices that can improve the microclimate. Together with you, we will analyze the calculations using a specific example. We describe in detail the process of installing a forced version of the hood for those who want to do the installation themselves.
The information provided is based on regulatory requirements. The information is supplemented by illustrations, step-by-step photo guides, diagrams, tables and videos.
Both in public buildings and in private houses, different types of ventilation systems are used. They differ in purpose, in the method of activating air flow and moving air masses. , designed to supply clean air to the house, is called supply air.
The design, the function of which is to remove exhaust air outside the room, is called exhaust. Ventilation with recirculation has a special mission. In this case, part of the air removed from the room is mixed with external cold air masses, with further heating of this mixture to the set temperature and return it to the room.
Air movement occurs as a result of processes that occur naturally due to the displacement of heated air with a lighter weight from the room by cold air, which has a higher volumetric weight.
The flow in such a system moves at a low speed, since the weight of the warm and cold mass differs by a small amount. ventilation with natural impulse is irrational to use if its horizontal length exceeds 8 m.
More effective is a system with artificial activation of air flow, ensured by the operation of fans. The air ducts in this case are longer and can pass through several rooms. System elements are most often placed in the attic. This option is justified for large buildings.
There is a division into ducted and ductless systems. In the first case, the air moves through channels and air ducts, in the second, there is no organized air movement. In this case, you have to open the window transoms and doors. Natural ventilation creates more comfortable conditions for the residents of the house.
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A ventilation system focused on removing exhaust air mass frees up space for the intake of fresh air
According to the method of exhaust air removal, exhaust ventilation systems are divided into ducted and ductless
According to the type of inducing air flow to move, ventilation systems are natural, forced and combined. In natural versions, air moves without the use of mechanical means; in combined versions, mechanical means and the laws of physics are used
In forced versions of the exhaust ventilation device, air is removed due to the operation of a suction fan installed in the exhaust air duct
A powerful supply and exhaust system is usually located in the attic of the house. Air ducts are protected with foil thermal insulation
Forced exhaust systems are mainly used in rooms with unstable humidity and temperature. They are more than appropriate in kitchens
An exhaust fan in the bathroom will quickly reduce humidity, which will eliminate mold and protect finished building structures from destruction.
Exhaust from the basement will ensure stable foundation strength and allow the use of underground premises
Exhaust ventilation system
Duct exhaust system duct
Natural ventilation of a private house
Fan with extractor in the bathroom
Exhaust system in the attic of a house
Hood in the kitchen in a country house
Exhaust fan in bathroom
Exhaust pipe from the basement
Necessary preliminary calculations
The initial parameter for the calculation is the volume of air removed and supplied to the room. There is more than one method, but the most used ones take sanitary standards and room area as a basis.
According to the requirement of the former, it is necessary to start from the fact that the air requirement is in m 3 / h. for one person spending most of the time in the house, it depends on the purpose of the room:
- living room - 40;
- bedroom - 20;
- kitchen - 60;
- bathroom - 25.
Based on the second criterion, we proceed from the following regulatory requirement: per 1 m² of living space there must be 3 m 3 of replaced air. When calculating the cross-section of air ducts, they are guided by the fact that the optimal air speed in the central channel is 5 m/sec, and in the side channel - a maximum of 3 m/sec.
You can independently determine the pipe diameter using the formula:
S = L/3600/v,
where L is productivity, measured in m 3 / h, v is air speed in m / sec.
Data on air consumption depending on the cross-section of the air duct are summarized in the table.
The aerodynamic resistance of an air duct with a circular cross-section is less than with a square one. The square shape is more compact, fits organically into the interior of the room, and has a large range of sizes
Air ducts are made of metal, plastic, aluminum foil, polyester. The last two are flexible systems. Their noise and heat insulation characteristics are good and they are ideally suited for a private home.
Natural air exchange in the house
Natural air exchange is based on the ability of gaseous and some liquid substances with a higher temperature to rise upward. Thus, the exhaust air is naturally removed from the room through a vertically located exhaust duct, drawing in, at the same time, outside air through the supply ducts.
Natural ventilation does not always provide comfort in the house. A mixed version is often used, when in addition to natural air movement, fans are also used (+)
The ineffectiveness of supply ventilation is indicated by excess moisture in the room during cold weather or increased dryness during warm weather. The presence of a large amount of dust and lack of oxygen are also signs of insufficient air flow from the outside.
The consequence of a poor hood is that under the wallpaper, in the bathroom, soot settles on the kitchen walls, and fogged up windows.
It is easy to check the operation of the hood. It is enough to bring a sheet of paper to the ventilation grille. With good draft, it will bend towards the ventilation duct, otherwise nothing will happen. It should be concluded that the hood is clogged with something and the channel needs to be cleaned to ensure draft.
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The effectiveness of natural ventilation directly depends on the condition of the ventilation grilles and ducts. Normal air movement should not be interfered with by dust accumulations and fatty deposits.
To check the operation of the natural system hood, simply attach a sheet of paper to the grille. If it is not pressed by the air flow, the exhaust duct does not work
If you have doubts about traditional means of verification, you should contact the management company to check the system using technical means
To obtain reliable readings, measurements should be taken on a cool day. At this time, it is necessary to open the vents to allow air to enter.
Dirty ventilation grille
Indicator of a clogged ventilation duct
Technical check of ventilation operation
Conditions for control
To provide a private home with good ventilation, you need to start by calculating the air exchange. Based on its results, the cross-section of the channels, the type of ventilation system are selected and a draft version of the ventilation scheme is made, where they indicate the places of passage of air ducts and installation of ventilation equipment, points of intake and output of the air mass.
Private houses are mainly located outside the city, where the air, unlike city air, is cleaner and there is no need for additional purification. Therefore, natural ventilation is preferable for a private home.
A big obstacle to the flow of fresh air are plastic windows, in which there are no cracks, and the glass fits very tightly to the frames.
The output is in the installation of the supply valve. It is placed on the upper frame, so the air coming from the street goes under the ceiling and only after mixing with conventional flows and acquiring room temperature, it goes down.
The location of the exhaust system elements should ensure the passage of air flow covering the entire house in the direction from “clean” rooms to those where the air is most susceptible to pollution.
According to this rule, in rooms with special conditions, which include boiler rooms, kitchens with a gas stove, basements, rooms with fireplaces and speakers, toilets, the presence of a hood is mandatory. Valves are also needed in these rooms.
The design features of the supply valve allow you to ventilate the room without creating drafts or reducing the performance characteristics of the window. In this case, condensation does not form. A slot-type valve, as in the photo, can be installed on an existing window unit
There are ventilation valves mounted on the wall. This pipe with a circular cross-section is inserted into a through hole in the wall and covered with gratings both on the inside and on the outside.
As a rule, a wall supply fan can supply 50-100 mᶾ of air per hour into the house. Based on this norm and having performed the appropriate calculation, their optimal quantity is selected
The grille located inside can be adjusted - opened and closed completely or partially. When installing, preference is given to a place near the window. Sometimes the supply valve is mounted behind the radiator and then the incoming air is immediately heated.
Requirements for ventilation of a private house
Sanitary and technical standards put forward a number of requirements for aircraft. When deciding how to make an effective hood in a private home, all points must be taken into account:
- The inner walls of the channels must be smooth. To ensure this condition, round or rectangular air ducts of constant cross-section are inserted into them.
- The ventilation riser at the bottom is equipped with an inspection door. It must close tightly.
- The exhaust duct is installed on the roof with an elevation above it of at least 1.5 m. If the roof has a broken shape, then in order to avoid the occurrence of reverse draft caused by swirling flows, a deflector is installed in the exhaust duct.
- Ventilation shaft installation. If a ventilation system was not initially provided for in the building, an attached shaft is attached to one of the walls. To improve traction it needs to be insulated.
- Compliance with ventilation rules. You cannot combine a mechanical kitchen hood with a general air conditioner. A separate channel is arranged for it, otherwise there will be problems with the functioning of natural draft in other rooms of the house.
- The maximum permissible distance from the ceiling to the top of the ventilation grilles is 150 mm. As this distance increases, zones of stagnant air will appear.
Doors separating adjacent rooms, even when closed, should not impede the flow of air.
The best solution is to purchase a door with a special decorative grille at the bottom. If a solid door is installed, a gap of no less than 2 cm is left between the floor and the door leaf, or a series of holes are drilled at the bottom.
The essence of the basic requirement is that the volume of air to be removed must be equal to the amount of air supplied. If this rule is not followed, then various unpleasant odors will penetrate into the room along with the air. If there is a large imbalance between the volume of incoming air and the exhaust air, drafts will appear.
Combination of ventilation with recirculation
Recirculation is called SW, when the air removed from the room is returned back through the influx with an admixture of fresh air. The disadvantage is that its use is limited by SNiP, and in regions with cold climates it does not work very effectively. Its action is limited to one room.
Recirculation allows you to save on energy consumption due to the fact that power is spent only on heating a small volume of air mass taken from the street
The recirculation system circuit can be turned into an ordinary one by closing the recirculation valve and fully opening the supply and exhaust valves. If you do the opposite, the system begins to circulate air in a circle.
When the supply and exhaust valves are only partially opened, fresh outside air will begin to be mixed in. By adjusting the degree of opening, they optimize the flow of elements that ensure comfortable life.
Installation of forced exhaust in a private house
Forced air exchange compares to natural air exchange in many respects:
- It works regardless of the weather.
- Cleans the air more effectively.
- It is possible to adjust the rotation speed and power of the fans.
- The air flow can be set in motion not only with the help of a duct fan, but also by using monoblocks, which are easy to install.
The main disadvantages are dependence on power supply and the need to periodically replace individual elements. There are several mechanisms for forced ventilation.
This can be a single supply and exhaust unit, a set-up supply system, an exhaust system, or a ducted air conditioner. The supply and exhaust SV is considered the most effective. The design includes a fan, automation, sensors, filters.
The spread of cold air in the room during supply and exhaust ventilation is prevented by a special damper located in the housing
Forced exhaust in the standard version has a single fan and is intended for small rooms. In a kit-type SV, the equipment is the same, but it is placed separately. The system capacity is in the range of 80-7,000 m 3 /h.
In large buildings it is necessary to install hoods with a capacity of 350 to 500 m 3 /h.
Kitchen hood installation technology
The hood in the kitchen is usually placed above the stove. It is necessary that the exhaust hood protrudes beyond the stove by 100-150 mm.
Performance is selected based on room parameters using the formula:
P = S x H x 12
Where the first symbol indicates the power of the second - the area of the third - the height of the kitchen.
Depending on the installation method, kitchen hoods can be suspended, wall-mounted, island-mounted, built-in, and based on the type of operation they can be circulation or supply
Air ducts usually follow an indirect path, which can result in reduced exhaust power. To guarantee, 30% is added to the value obtained as a result of the calculation. The installation technology is simple, so once you understand the circuit, you can do all the work yourself.
When there is no built-in aircraft. then first make a hole in the wall, matching in diameter with the cross-section of the exhaust pipe. If you neglect this recommendation, the work will be accompanied by increased noise, and the air will come out at a lower speed.
The structure itself is located at a distance of at least 0.7 m from the surface of the electric stove and 0.8 m from the gas stove.
The next step is marking the fastening. Sometimes the hood kit includes a template, but if you don’t have one, you can use a level and tape measure. Next, fix the exhaust hood, keeping it horizontal.
The structure is connected to the previously made outlet, connected to the electrical network and tested. If the house has a gas water heater, then the ventilation pipe can be routed into the chimney of the boiler or heating furnace.
The following photo selection will demonstrate the process of installing a kitchen hood with a masking dome:
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In order to bring the exhaust air duct outside, we drill the wall. We first use the attachment for drilling tiles, then the drill for brick and concrete walls
We will use a corrugated pipe to install the exhaust air duct. We try it on at the installation site and, if necessary, modify the hole
We mark the points of attachment of the dome after the fact, with the help of which we will mask the exhaust device with the air duct
We install dowels into the holes drilled according to the markings, into which we screw the screws.
We cut the corrugated exhaust duct in accordance with the required dimensions. Cutting with regular scissors
We attach the camouflage dome to its future location, check the horizontal and vertical lines and the length of the corrugation
We connect the hood inside the dome to the exhaust duct. First, slightly compress the corrugation so that it fits snugly, straightening out in the hole.
We connect the hood to the power supply and check its functionality by attaching a piece of paper to the work area
Step 1: Drilling a hole for the duct outlet
Step 2: Fitting the corrugation to the installation site
Step 3: Marking and installing attachment points
Step 4: Screwing in the mounting screws
Step 5: Trimming the corrugation to actual dimensions
Step 6: Fitting the canopy to its location
Step 7: Connecting the Exhaust Unit to the Duct
Step 8: Check the operation of the exhaust system
Forced exhaust of a bathroom in a private house
In the bathroom for forced ventilation, exhaust fans operating in a humid environment are installed:
- supply power to the room and install an outlet;
- a hole is made in the wall corresponding to the cross-section of the fan coupling;
- the coupling is placed in the hole;
- drill mounting holes;
- connect the cable;
- Having removed the front panel from the fan, attach the latter to the wall;
- return the removed panel to its place;
- a grille is attached to the outside.
It is advisable to use such a system in a bathroom located on the second floor. Usually the air supply of this room with the obligatory presence of a ventilation shaft is included in the project. The air flow is carried out through the gap between the floor and the door, as well as through the vents.
Of all the building materials, wood is the most breathable. Given this advantage, this natural air exchange will be quite sufficient to ventilate the entire room. But in places such as a basement, kitchen, or bathroom this will not be enough. Therefore, exhaust ventilation in a wooden house will be an excellent, and most importantly, necessary addition to the entire building.
Key Features
To create free air circulation throughout all rooms, it is necessary to make a gap between the door and the floor, and then drill small technological holes at the bottom of the door leaf, which can later be decorated with a grille.
The entire system is provided by an air duct that goes upward, towards. The traction force is directly proportional to the length of the pipe. This also applies to the cross-section of ventilation ducts, where the size of the area is also directly proportional to the outflow of exhaust air from the building.
There is no need to worry about increased noise during ventilation operation, since during installation the supply valves are equipped with noise-insulating material. Sometimes exhaust ventilation in a house is homemade: sound insulation in such a system is present only at the outlet of the air duct. To reduce background noise, you can select exhaust fans that have the lowest noise limit
Energy savings can be achieved by installing a monoblock s.
It is important to follow the exhaust ventilation scheme when planning the construction of a particular house:
- Warm air should only rise up, and cold air should be from below
- Supply valves are located below, exhaust air ducts are located above
This scheme consists of two different, but most often complementary types of ventilation in residential buildings. These are supply and exhaust ventilation, which are usually connected to each other. The first fills the room with fresh air, while the second processes and removes old air. Such a system will cost the owner a tidy sum, however, due to its high productivity, advantages and long-term operation, it will pay off quite quickly.
Advantages of the system
There are several aspects in favor of exhaust ventilation:
- Maximum comfort from a continuous supply of clean and fresh air
- Environmentally friendly materials that are used in this ventilation guarantee a cozy atmosphere in the house, and are also a good prevention of various airborne diseases
- When toxic substances enter the air, the risk of becoming infected is minimized, but this should not be neglected
Depending on the complexity or simplicity of a particular building, the installation and ventilation scheme, accordingly, will be constructed differently. If you are not a master in this field, it is best to entrust this matter to good specialists, at the same time concluding an agreement with the company providing the services.
When installing exclusively exhaust ventilation in a house, old air will be exhausted from damp rooms, and fresh air will be supplied through wood, windows, and vents. The main advantage of this method is the ability to control the air removed from the room.
In the case of an apartment building, hoods can be installed individually for each resident of the house, or for all apartments at the same time.
Hood – making the right choice
According to their design, hoods are divided into the following categories:
- Built-in
- Island
- Tabletop
- Wall mounted
Wall hoods can have either a rectangular or curved shape, located above the entire stove as a whole. Such hoods attract attention when entering a room, so it is worth taking time to choose a suitable device for the appropriate interior.
Built-in hoods to hide from view are installed directly into cabinet furniture.
Tabletop hoods are installed near the food preparation area. Due to their low power, such hoods are the optimal solution for small areas.
Island hoods are placed in the center of the kitchen, under the ceiling. They are most suitable for cases where the stove is located in the center, and the rest of the furniture set is located separately.
Connection and installation
For optimal air circulation, it is necessary to correctly determine the installation location of the hood. Concrete slabs or brick work best. The fittings must match the fastening material.
Maintaining height is an important installation attribute. For example, above a gas stove the mechanism will be located at a distance of 75 cm, and above an electric stove - from 65 cm.
The diameter of the air duct can be from 12 to 15 cm. If the diameter is larger, a special adapter may be useful during the installation process. The exhaust ventilation duct of a wooden house should not be very long in size for optimal performance of the system as a whole.
When all components are securely mounted into a single system, it is worth starting to connect the electrical part. The outlet block must be grounded.
The walls of buildings made of natural wood retain forest aromas that have a beneficial effect on humans. Effective ventilation in a house made of timber creates the necessary conditions for proper rest.
In old buildings made of natural wood, air currents were moved by heat generated by stoves. Natural ventilation in a wooden house was ensured due to the presence of cracks.
The need for ventilation in timber buildings
Modern buildings made of wood differ from those built earlier by the absence of gaps between joints in the walls. First of all, builders are concerned about preserving heat and preventing drafts.
thanks to the tight mutual fit of the parts, the houses become almost airtight
Is ventilation necessary in a wooden house? A similar question is often asked by homeowners of private buildings. Without an influx of fresh air, there is stagnation of air flows in the space of the home. Wooden buildings require ventilation equipment.
The choice of a suitable system (forced or natural type) is made by the owners, since they are best familiar with the specific conditions of stay in their home.
Ventilation device in wooden houses
To successfully install ventilation in a wooden house yourself, you need to acquire the usual tools for plumbing and carpentry. Installation activities consist of the following steps:
- Design.
- Arrangement of ventilation ducts.
- Installation of air ducts according to the drawn up plan.
- Checking the system for functionality.
- Troubleshooting identified problems.
Features of designing a ventilation system
From the very beginning, the project is developed with your own hands. This event is carried out in accordance with the requirements of building regulations and taking into account the location of the rooms.
Ensuring air exchange standards in the main rooms:
- kitchen with gas stove – 70 m³/hour;
- kitchen with electric stove – 50 m³/hour;
- bathroom – 50 m³/hour;
- living room – 30 m³/hour;
- bathroom – 30 m³/hour;
- utility room – 15 m³/hour.
Quality requires an accurate, justified project.
a competent drawing serves as the basis for determining the parameters of the ventilation system, since it takes into account the layout of a particular house
At this stage, correct marking of the location of system elements is required. You can invite a professional designer to perform this important task.
Installation of natural ventilation
During natural ventilation, the warmest masses rise upward through special channels located vertically. How to make ventilation with your own hands? Equipping a natural system is the cheapest but most effective task and is easy to do yourself.
The complex of work begins in the basement, as there is an influx of fresh outside air.
During the construction process, the walls of the house are equipped with special small holes for the passage of air flows
To ensure better draft, fresh air is supplied from the north side. The entrance to the supply channel is made at the ground floor level.
Installation of exhaust ducts
Complete natural ventilation in a do-it-yourself wooden house indoors is ensured by gaps specially left under interior doors, equal to 1.5–2 cm. Or by installing door ventilation grilles. Warm air is randomly directed to the exhaust ducts. In each room, a duct entrance must be installed in the ceiling area.
holes in the wall are masked with decorative grilles
Exhaust duct outlets must be installed above the roof. Pass-through air channels are equipped with special plugs or valves to regulate the air exchange rate.
To avoid the backdraft effect during strong gusts of wind, ventilation in a wooden house involves installing separate ventilation ducts for each room. This means that the kitchen, bedroom, and bathroom must be equipped with their own ducts to prevent unpleasant odors from penetrating into the living spaces. The attic residential floor is equipped with the same channels for complete ventilation. Attics not intended for habitation are ventilated through holes made in the roof.
Traction force in the ventilation system of a wooden house
Ventilation in a private wooden house and its draft depend not only on the wind, but also on other factors:
- The ventilation pipe extends over the roof ridge.
- The cross-sectional area of the inner part of the channel.
- Number of bends and turns.
- The quality of the system's thermal insulation.
The best result is achieved with a minimum number of obstacles in the form of: roughness, bends, narrowings, etc.
During the hot period in a log house, the traction force value approaches zero due to a slight temperature difference in the lower and upper layers of the ventilation duct. In such conditions, the best solution for ventilating the room would be to use forced ventilation or simply open the windows.
Materials for ventilation shafts
Small wooden cottages do not need to finish the shafts with brick, since the surface of the internal channel will have unnecessary roughness where dust will begin to accumulate. In a small private house, it is recommended to use channel blocks made of smooth metal or plastic.
Forced ventilation
With natural air movement, the internal atmosphere of the room does not always have time to refresh. Homeowners often come to the conclusion that it is necessary to increase ventilation in a wooden house.
in order to increase productivity, the existing ventilation system can be supplemented with an extractor hood
The hood in a wooden house will improve if you install this device before entering the exhaust duct in the room where it is necessary to increase the air exchange rate (bathroom, kitchen).
Fan requirements:
- The fan dimensions must correspond to the diameter of the duct for convenient installation
- The power of the device must be sufficient to ensure effective ventilation
If there is insufficient fan power, an additional blower device is installed.
It is not recommended to combine forced exhaust from different rooms into one ventilation duct for the same reasons as with natural ventilation.
Installation of ventilation in shower cabins
To improve the movement of air masses in a bathroom or shower stall, the doors are hung with a bottom gap of about five centimeters; forced ventilation is also used for this purpose. Ventilation of a shower cabin in a wooden house is installed both above the ceiling and in the open. When directly ventilating a room, the system turns on after a person leaves the cabin, so as not to catch a cold.
Installation of fresh air ventilation in a wooden house
For the purpose of strengthening, enhanced supply ventilation is used. With the help of this system, the most effective air exchange is carried out in all rooms, both in the living area and in the basements and attic.
Supply ventilation in a log house performs the following functions:
- outside air intake;
- dust removal using air filtration;
- heating of incoming air masses;
- removal of exhaust air from premises.
Supply ventilation equipment
The retail chain has a large assortment of ventilation equipment for houses made of natural wood. To make the right choice, you need to consult with specialists before purchasing fresh air ventilation.
A complete set of equipment consists of the following elements:
- Fan built into the duct.
- Electric heater for heating cold winter air.
- A device for humidifying dry air flows.
- Fan vibration damper.
- A set of filters for air purification.
A modern supply ventilation system in a wooden house is equipped with automation for ease of control and management.
Installation location of distribution equipment
The attic of a private house is the most preferred place to install equipment. To avoid the harmful effects of vibrations on interfloor ceilings, working units are installed on special low stands. During installation, air routes are secured under the ceiling and inside the ceilings.
Checking system performance
Each wooden house, due to the special properties of the building material used, requires a careful approach to the quality of arrangement of any ventilation systems in both residential and office premises. Regardless of the type of ventilation that is installed in a log house, it must be effective.
A refined check of the quality of the system’s operation is carried out using a special device - an anemometer. The ventilation of a wooden house can also be checked using available household products. A paper towel held near the ceiling vent should point towards the grate.
Installing ventilation in a wooden house is not a complicated undertaking. The most important and difficult stage can be called designing the system and calculating the necessary elements. It is recommended to carry out this work with the help of specialists.