Residents of modern panel houses know firsthand what an insufficient area of ​​an apartment is. Most people strive for more comfortable living, that is, to increase living space. This can be done through the use of a balcony or loggia. But in most cases, these rooms are cold and not suitable for organizing living space. To make them more comfortable, it is necessary to carry out finishing work, the main of which is the arrangement of the floor on the balcony with your own hands.

How to choose flooring materials

There are the following options for arranging the floor on the balcony, each of which involves the use of special building materials:

Balcony floor made of plywood with insulation

In addition to the above options, it is possible to install a floor heating system. This is the most expensive type of flooring, but at the same time it provides a comfortable temperature inside the balcony at any time of the year. Depending on the budget, as well as the cost of utilities, choose a water or electric version of the equipment. In this case, the floors on the balcony must be pre-prepared. That is, it is necessary to carry out waterproofing, insulation, leveling.

Before you make the floor on the balcony with your own hands, you need to purchase the necessary materials. If the budget for repairs is small, it is recommended to opt for options such as screed and tiles, a concrete base with laminate or linoleum. You can also make insulated wood flooring. If the budget is quite large, then you can not deny yourself anything and equip the balcony with the latest technology.

Underfloor heating system - the most expensive type of floor arrangement on the balcony

On a note! The use of tiles is possible only if the surface is pre-levelled.

Preparatory work

After it was decided what to make the floor on the balcony of, you can proceed to the preparatory work. First of all, it is necessary to remove from the balcony all the furniture, things stored there and everything that may interfere with the repair work. If there is any flooring or old coating on the floor that has become unusable, it should be removed. Then the plate should be cleaned of fungus and other contaminants, and then coated with a special antiseptic composition to prevent the development of harmful microorganisms.

Dismantling the old flooring on the balcony

Next, you need to check the coating for evenness. To do this, you can use the building level, which is applied in different places throughout the floor area. You can also pre-pour water on the floor to find out uneven places, and then check the level deviation. Most flooring options require screeding. This work includes the following operations:

1. Installation of beacons. The first step is to draw the floor on the balcony with transverse lines every 60 cm. Then cut the beacons (metal profiles) along the width of the balcony and install them on dowels and self-tapping screws. Alignment of profiles occurs with the help of the same building level and small wooden or hardboard bars, which are placed under the lighthouses. The products are fixed with cement mortar, they also fill the places where the bars were.
2. Solution preparation. If a dry mix was purchased, then the preparation of the solution must take place in strict accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. For self-preparation, you need to take 3 parts of sand and 1 part of cement. First, the dry ingredients are mixed, after which water is added. After preparation, it is recommended to let the solution brew and mix again after 15 minutes.
3. Application of the mixture. The finished solution is applied to the floor with spatulas and leveled, taking into account the beacons. Then the flooring is left alone for 2 hours, after which the beacons are removed and the resulting strobes are filled with a solution.
4. Grout. At the very end, a day after applying the material, the surface is treated with sandpaper, and then coated with a primer. Then you can proceed to further work on the design of the floor.

How to fill the floor on the balcony without beacons:

The finished surface is primed, after which you can proceed to further finishing work, for example, lay a laminate on the balcony.

Warming

Depending on the presence of a thermal insulation layer and the type of material used, different results can be achieved on the balcony. In most cases, before leveling the floor on the balcony completely, a heater is laid that does not change the size of the interior space.

Warming without changing the coating

In this case, we are talking about installing an electric floor heating system. Installation is carried out as follows:

• First of all, foamenol foam insulation is laid over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe balcony.
• The rolled part of the underfloor heating system is rolled out on the prepared base.
• The edges of the material adjacent to the wall should be treated with bituminous insulation.
• On the opposite side, it is necessary to bring the contacts and solder them.
• All exposed conductive parts must be insulated.
• The thermostat should be connected to the network, and the temperature sensor should be placed under the heating element, while fixing the wire with tape.
• A hole is drilled next to the outlet for the control panel and a strobe for connecting the cable.
• Power is supplied from a nearby outlet.

Important! After all the above actions, a test run of the system should be carried out, and only then the final coating should be laid.

Insulation with a change in floor thickness

The first step is to mark the surface. To do this, draw 3 longitudinal lines with an indent from the walls of 5 cm and from each other by 40-60 cm, depending on the width of the balcony. Then brackets are installed along the lines every 30-40 cm. Wooden bars are mounted in the installed fasteners and fixed with self-tapping screws. After that, the installation of transverse logs is carried out (usually no more than 4 pieces are required, spaced at an equal distance from each other). Installed lags are checked by level, after which mineral wool or penoplex is laid between them. From above, the structure is covered with plywood, which is installed on self-tapping screws in increments of 15 cm.

Penoplex is one of the most popular materials for floor insulation on the balcony.

Arrangement of flooring

The last step in arranging the floor on the balcony is the installation of a finishing coating. There are several ways to carry out this operation, but the most popular is the tiled floor.

Laying tiles

Laying tiles on the balcony begins with the preparation of the mortar. It is recommended to use branded products, as home-made mixes may be too low quality. The prepared solution is applied to the floor with a figured spatula and stretched over the surface. The tiles are pressed to the floor and checked with a building level. Next to it, the next element is laid, and crosses are installed between them, with the help of which the seams will be formed.

Tiles allow you to emphasize the individuality of the balcony interior

In areas near the walls, trimming of the material may be required. To do this, it is better to use a tile cutter, the use of a grinder in this case is traumatic. After installing the entire tile, you must wait a day for the solution to dry, and then fill the seams with a special grout.

Terrace board laying

First, longitudinal logs are installed without rigid fixation, transverse beams are mounted on them, fastened with self-tapping screws. Then, special clips are installed on the transverse boards, which come with the terrace board. The material will be installed in these clamps. The side on which there is a groove is put into clips and so on until the entire roll is lined. The correct installation of each element is checked by the building level.

When laying a terrace board, it is necessary to install logs

Floor painting

First you need to prime the surface. Firstly, the adhesion of the coating will increase significantly, and secondly, paint consumption will decrease. Then the material is poured into a convenient container, a roller is dipped in it and the floor surface is painted over, starting from the far corner. After a few hours, when the paint dries a little, a second coat should be applied. After these procedures, no more work will be done, so you can mount the baseboard. Although some prefer to additionally varnish the floor.

Linoleum laying

A sheet of material is rolled out on the floor and the excess is trimmed. To do this, the edge of the roll is pressed against the wall and cut off just above the floor line to leave a margin. Then the material is removed and a special glue is applied to the surface. Linoleum is again laid on top of the prepared base and pressed firmly to the floor. Further, the entire surface is rolled with a roller, and excess glue is removed with a rag.

Laying linoleum is a fairly simple procedure that does not require special skills.

Installation of laminate or parquet

The first step is to lay a substrate of polyethylene or cork. The material must completely cover the surface to be treated. Fragments of the substrate are fastened with ordinary adhesive tape. Laying parquet or laminate on the balcony starts from the far corner, while the spike should be pressed against the wall surface. Then they pick up a row adjacent to the balcony railing.

On a note! Wooden pegs should be inserted into the gap between the wall and the material to form an expansion gap. This gap is necessary so that during the set of moisture, the floor covering does not swell.

Installation of laminate and parquet requires attention and a responsible approach to business

Conclusion

Pouring a concrete screed and installing a floor covering on a balcony is quite simple, since its area is small, and the quality requirements for the finished coating are lower than for indoor surfaces. The only difficulty that a novice master may encounter is the installation of a warm floor system, so it is better to entrust it to specialists. Everything else can be done on your own, it is only important to follow the above instructions and check the results of the work with the level as often as possible.

Balconies and loggias

How to level the floor on the balcony and loggia with your own hands?

From the author: hello dear reader. Recently, I had the opportunity to move into a new apartment in a standard nine-story building built in the late neon 1980s. So this apartment was new only for me, and not in general. And, apparently, the repair in it since the construction was done only once. So I, as a full-fledged owner of the apartments, had to start repair work on my own.

The balcony deserved special attention, as its condition was far from ideal. And since it was large enough, my plans included turning it into a full-fledged living space in order to organize a workplace with a PC there. This article is not able to accommodate the entire complex of works on the reconstruction of the balcony, so today we will analyze only one topic: how to do it on the balcony with your own hands.

All procedures for leveling the floor on the balcony / loggia come down to two methods:

• leveling with a cement screed;
• alignment with wooden lag.

We will analyze these two scenarios in detail, point out specific points in the work, and also find out which flooring should be chosen for a loggia or balcony. In addition, you will learn what kind of work to level the base should be carried out if you decide to leave your balcony unglazed. So let's get started.

Leveling the floor with a screed

If you decide to level the floor with a screed, you first need to "deal" with the old coating. There may be an old tile, and just an uncoated screed, which has already become unusable in places (or completely). If so, then the old tile / screed should be disposed of. To do this, use a puncher or a jackhammer. Only you need to work carefully so as not to damage the stove itself. Anything can happen, and the collapse of the balcony is not in our plans, is it?

If the screed on the balcony is in relatively good condition, and not particularly crooked, then perhaps you can do without pouring. Although, if you want to achieve a perfectly flat surface, a self-leveling floor is at your service. But now we are not talking about self-leveling floors, but about a full-fledged cement-sand screed.

So, we got rid of the old screed. Now, using a brush, a layer of primer should be applied to the work surface. Penetrating primer provides reliable adhesion of the solution to the surface, and in addition - has an antiseptic effect. Simply put, she protects.

Since we need to achieve a perfectly even base, we should use the building level. You can bubble, but laser is better. Firstly, it is more convenient to work with it, and secondly, it will give a more accurate result. If you do not have such specific equipment (as, however, happened in my case), it is not necessary to clean it up, since such a device is not cheap. You can take it for temporary use in the construction supermarket, where there is a "Tool rental" service. Or ask friends/neighbours.

So let's say you already have a laser level. Now we need to set the zero mark. Here's what's to be done:

• set the level at the highest corner or the highest point in the center;
• turn on the laser;
• using a pencil, mark on the wall the points that the laser “painted”. By the way, some laser levels cast not points, but lines to the surface, which is much more convenient;
• turn the level while holding the tripod to transfer the horizontal lines to all the walls.

If you have never used such a tool before, be sure to read the instructions, because due to one seemingly minor mistake, the entire floor may turn out to be crooked after completion of work. And this is certainly not included in our plans.

After the height level of the screed is determined, you can proceed with the installation of beacons, along which the surface will be leveled. The step between them should, as a rule, be from 30 to 50 cm. By the way, I would like to remind you of the existence of warm floors. Although, if you decide to thoroughly insulate, you probably know about this technology. But in fairness, I would like to note that a warm floor is laid at this stage, - before (!) pouring the screed.

Also, in some cases, reinforcement is performed before pouring. But most often they lay reinforcement in cases where the balcony will not be glazed in the future. And more about beacons: before starting pouring, you should wait until the solution that fixes them seizes. At a temperature of 20–25°C, several hours are sufficient. On if the work is performed at a temperature lower, it may take 12 hours, or even a day. In general, look at the circumstances.

Preparation of mortar for pouring the floor

Be prepared for the fact that pouring the floor is a rather dirty and hard job. Even if we are talking about such a seemingly small area as the area of ​​​​the loggia / balcony. The proportions for preparing a floor screed can be expressed by a simple formula: 1:2:1.2. That is:

• 1 - cement;
• 2 - sand;
• 1,2 - water.

Of course, these proportions can be adjusted at your discretion. For example, it is quite difficult to determine exactly how much water is needed. H2O should be added in such an amount that the consistency of the mixture resembles thick sour cream in its structure. That is, it should not be too liquid and not too dry. For greater strength, the amount of sand is also increased. This usually happens if the floor will be subjected to heavy loads during operation.

For additional thermal insulation, expanded clay can be added to the screed. This is a versatile, reliable insulation that has been successfully used in construction for over a hundred years. It can be added in arbitrary proportions, but, as a rule, for reliable thermal insulation it is added in proportions from four to eight. Therefore, the formula for preparing a screed with the addition of expanded clay will look like this: 1: 2: 1.2: 4–8, where 4–8 is expanded clay.

In addition to expanded clay, the composition of the screed solution may also contain reinforcing fiber. As a rule, this component is added in proportions of 0.6–0.9 kg per 1 m³.

To fill the floor, special gypsum screeds are also used. They are used to eliminate minor flaws in the work surface. But the use of gypsum screed has its limitations: it is not suitable for rooms with high humidity. The main advantage of this leveling method is relatively fast drying (up to three days) and relative ease of use.

Both gypsum and cement mixtures can be purchased at a hardware store. All the necessary components have already been added to such compositions, so you do not have to think about the proportions in which to prepare the screed. It is logical that a ready-made mixture will cost you more than purchasing all the constituent components separately.

Important! When purchasing cement (or ready-made composition), pay attention to the brand. The higher this figure, the better your screed will be.

The calculation of the required amount of mortar, as a rule, occurs as follows: multiplying the floor area by the thickness of the fill layer. For example, the floor surface area is 5 m², and the estimated thickness of the screed is 7 cm. Therefore, 5 × 0.07 \u003d 0.35 m³.

After you have completed the necessary calculations and purchased the necessary building materials, it's time to start preparing the composition. Here's how to do it:

• mix cement and sand thoroughly in accordance with the proportions we have chosen. For mixing, it is better to use a drill mixer, since mixing the solution by hand is a difficult and inefficient task;
• mix the plasticizer with water - in another container. The proportions in which this material is added are indicated in the instructions on the package. But, as a rule, 380-400 g is used per 100 kg of cement. In addition, reinforcing fiber can be added;
• Gradually add dry ingredients to a container of water. But (!) not vice versa - otherwise the solution will turn out to be inhomogeneous;
• mix the resulting composition thoroughly.

Ready. Now you can start filling. The mixture should be poured between the beacons, and then leveled with a rule. Here, as with the preparation of the mixture, skill is needed, so if you have not done this before, you may not get exactly what you expected. So it is better to carry out these works not alone, but with a comrade who is more enlightened in the repair and construction issue. In addition, doing the work of pouring alone is quite problematic. Either way, you'll need an assistant.

After the screed has completely dried (and it dries for quite a long time - up to several weeks), you can start laying the floor covering. We will talk about which floor covering to choose for the balcony / loggia in the following sections of the article. But keep in mind that laying should be done only (!) After complete drying.

To check if the screed is dry, it is enough to take a small piece of oilcloth, put it on the screed, fix it with tape around the perimeter and leave it for about 12 hours. If during this time a wet area has formed under the oilcloth, this means that the screed is damp and it is too early to lay the floor covering. If it is dry under the oilcloth, it's time to start laying.

So we learned how to pour the screed on the balcony or loggia. Keep in mind that this section of the article is intended for people who already have an idea about filling. So, if you are already completely new to this business, you should seek advice not from Yandex or Google, but from a more experienced master than you.

Alignment with log

We successfully dealt with the screed. Now we level the floor on the loggia or balcony with the help of wooden logs. This type of alignment is physically easier to perform, so you may not need third party assistance. But this is only if you have a specific idea about this process. From building materials we need:

• plywood or OSB (preferably at least 20 mm thick);
• dry timber (preferably from pine) with a section of 60 × 40 mm. But, in principle, 40 × 40 mm or 30 × 40 mm will do.

In addition, we need to prepare the following set of tools:

• wood saw;
• electric jigsaw;
• electric circular saw;
• perforator drill;
• screwdriver;
• building level (preferably laser);
• roulette;
• dowels / screws.

Now it's time to start installing the lag. First of all, remove all small debris from the surface, and then mark the floor level. In order to further protect the base from negative influences, a primer can be applied to it. Usually the floor in the room is higher than the floor of the loggia or balcony. Of course, the topcoat and frame should not exceed the floor level of the room. To mark the horizontal plane of the floor, use a laser or water level. Preferably, of course, laser. In this case, the procedure for marking work surfaces using a level is completely identical to how we marked the surfaces in the case of pouring the screed. To install wooden logs, you should measure the distance from the floor of the balcony to the zero level, while marking the lowest and highest points.

Before laying the frame, roofing material should be laid as a waterproofing. As a rule, it is laid with an overlap of 15 cm. The overlap on the walls should be at least 5 cm. However, special mastic can be used as waterproofing, which is evenly applied to the surface, and ordinary oilcloth, which is fastened with ordinary wide adhesive tape.

Basically, the question of how to level the floor on the balcony is asked if the future plans include its glazing and subsequent installation of the floor covering. In some cases, the performance of such work will favorably affect not only the decorative appearance of the room, but also enhance the structural strength of the balcony slab.

This is due to the fact that the house, and with it the balcony ceiling, built several decades ago, lose their former strength over time. For example, a plate can withstand a load of 400 kg / m2, but due to the fact that it was in the open air, the influence of rain and wind, the coefficient can be safely divided in half. Thus, pouring the floor becomes a very useful event.

Deciding on terminology

For a closer disclosure of the topic, consider 3 categories of balconies:

For each of them, you can use a separate material that will level the surface. With the wrong choice of method, the coating may collapse under the negative influence of various factors.

open balcony

In the summer it rains here, and in the winter it snows. For this type of premises, a cement floor screed is simply necessary. In addition to leveling, the board surface will be strengthened with a fresh layer. If the house has recently been put into operation, and the condition of the concrete floor is in perfect condition, you can use the OESBi sheet or DSP. As a decorative coating, the ideal option would be to use materials such as:

• Decking.
• Ceramics.
• Porcelain tile.
• Paving slabs.

It must be borne in mind that the base of the structure is largely in limbo. Therefore, choosing a method for leveling the floor on the balcony with your own hands, you should not use heavy materials.

Loggia

In this case, the floor slab is protected from the effects of snow, rain and wind. However, it is subject to sudden changes in temperature, due to which drops of condensate form periodically. That's why
The ideal option would be to use moisture resistant materials:

• Plywood.
• OESB.
• Cement strainer.

The flooring can only be used moisture resistant: linoleum, tiles, laminate class 33 or 34.

loggia with heating

A screed for a loggia, which is high-quality glazed and constantly heated in the cold season, is needed directly to level the surface. Absolutely all types of floor coverings used in the living room are used as a finishing layer.

Installation of beacons

Beacons for determining the level

You can accurately determine to what level the floor on the balcony needs to be leveled using a spirit level (water level) or using a laser level. Both tools allow you to outline the boundaries of the plane with an accuracy of 1 - 2 mm. The difference lies only in the complexity of the work. An electronic device will help you make the necessary measurements much faster. But its minimum price starts from 3,000 rubles, when water costs only 300 - 400. Naturally, in order to make a screed on a loggia or balcony, you should not buy a device that will not be useful in the future.

It should be noted that the poured floor on the open balcony should have a slight slope towards the street. This is required so that the water that gets here does not stagnate, but flows out. For a meter of slab width, 1 cm of slope is enough.

Water level measurement

The highest point of the floor is visually selected (the place where it is pulled up as much as possible) and next to it, the first mark is placed on the wall. Using the level on the remaining walls, marks are made on the same border. After that, all given points are connected by a straight line. This is the so-called horizon. A calculation is made of the thickness to which the screed will be poured. Then, subtracting this value from the height of the horizon, the level of the finishing layer of the future floor is marked on the walls.

Measurement with a laser level

Measurements with a laser level

The device is installed at the highest point of the floor (preferably in a corner). After turning on the power, he himself will determine the points of a flat horizontal. After making marks with a pencil or marker, you should turn the level, holding it by the tripod, and mark the horizontal on the rest of the walls. After that, you can safely remove the device and start pouring the floor on the balcony with your own hands.
More expensive device models show the horizontal not as dots, but as a solid line, which is a more convenient option.

Watch the video on how to properly level the floor:

Floor leveling methods

Modern technologies allow 2 options for how to make a floor screed on a balcony. And each has its own advantages and disadvantages compared to a similar method.

Wet screed

Leveling the floor with a wet screed

When choosing how to make a screed on a balcony, it should be borne in mind that the thickness of the cement-sand layer should not exceed 7 cm. As a result of pouring, the total weight of the structure will increase significantly, and the base may not withstand the load.

The main disadvantage of this method is the turnaround time. It will take at least three days from the moment of pouring until complete hardening. This is only with a layer of 2 - 3 cm, with a greater thickness, an even longer period may be required. Again, depending on the temperature.

How to fill the floor on the balcony with your own hands? Even an inexperienced person in construction will cope with the work. The procedure is as follows:

• A layer of waterproofing is laid.
• Beacons are installed at a distance of 50 cm from each other.
  This is done with the help of screws and fishing line.
• The cement mixture or self-leveling floor is mixed in a container according to the instructions indicated on the back of the package, and poured onto the surface. The resulting mixture is distributed using a trowel and then a rule.
• After 1 - 2 days, the line of beacons is removed, the surface is rubbed with a trowel with a new mixture. Irregularities should be treated in the same way.
• It is recommended to lay the topcoat on the floor only after the mixture has completely hardened.

In order to avoid possible cracking of the surface during drying, it is necessary to cover it with a plastic film, periodically spray it with water, and open it only as needed.

Dry screed

Leveling the floor with a dry screed

A dry floor screed will be an ideal option for subsequent insulation. It is carried out with materials that have good thermal insulation performance and meet all the requirements for fire safety of residential premises. Floor screed on the loggia in this way is performed with the following materials:

• Expanded clay sand.
• Expanded clay gravel.
• Expanded clay gravel.

The advantage that a dry screed on the balcony compares favorably with is the time spent on the work. After preparing the surface and determining the horizontal, the material is poured out and leveled with a rule. Immediately after this, a gypsum fiber board is laid on top, after which the finishing floor material can be laid on the surface. Another plus is the absence of “wet” work, since there is no need to stir the cement mortar, use water and dilute dirt. The main disadvantage is the high cost of expanded clay in relation to cement.

Do-it-yourself dry screed on the balcony is performed in the following order:

• Formwork is installed along the entire perimeter of the balcony.
• A layer of waterproofing is laid out.
• Expanded clay no larger than 30 mm is poured onto the surface and rammed until level with the upper edge of the formwork.
• Gypsum fiber boards are laid on the leveled expanded clay layer.

The video below explains very well how to do a floor screed:

Formwork made of plywood or boards must be treated with an antiseptic that protects the wood from decay and the formation of fungus.

How to align your balcony or loggia, everyone chooses individually. The only thing to be reminded of is that the quality, and maybe the service life of the finishing decorative coating, will depend on how the work is done. For example, laminate flooring requires a perfectly flat surface. Otherwise, over time, due to the fact that he will “play”, the locks will loosen and become unusable. Therefore, the floor screed on the balcony or loggia should be perfectly flat with respect to one plane.

Many people want to make a loggia an additional corner of comfort. Moreover, given the small size of the apartment "extension", they strive to do it with their own hands. One of the most burning questions usually turns out to be how to level the floor on the balcony, since this part of the room, especially in the “Khrushchev”, initially looks deplorable and is located at different levels with the floors of the apartment. You will learn how to level a balcony floor, from a classic cement screed to recent technologies, by reading the article.

Floor leveling methods

On the loggia, which is glazed and effectively isolated from the external environment, the same methods of preparing the floor base are applicable as inside the apartment, namely:

• cement-sand (concrete) screed;
• pouring and leveling solutions prepared from ready-made building mixtures;
• design options for the floor base on wooden logs;
• the use of gypsum fiber boards (dry screed).

All of these methods have disadvantages and advantages. The main plus that unites these technologies is the availability of doing it yourself. Next, we will consider the features of each of the methods for leveling the floor on loggias and balconies, which are applicable in "Khrushchev" and new buildings.

Methods for determining the floor level

Before leveling the floor, it is necessary to determine in advance its future level and put down the appropriate marks. There are three main measurement methods that are most popular.

Water level. Two people are required to use this level. To begin with, we visually determine the future level of the floor, minus the finish coating, and make a mark on the wall. We apply one water level flask to this mark so that the water level is approximately in the middle of the flask and is set clearly on the mark. Then the second person with the second flask goes to the opposite side of the balcony, puts the second flask against the wall. Then the second person adjusts the height of the flask so that the level in the first flask coincides with the preliminary mark on the wall. When the marks in the first flask coincide with the mark on the wall, the second person draws a mark on the opposite wall according to the level in the second flask. It is important that at this moment both flasks are open for air access and there are no air bubbles in the hose itself.

Laser level. The laser device is much simpler and more accurate, it is installed on the highest point on the floor surface, the laser is turned on and marks are made on the wall with a pencil according to the indications of the laser beam. If the floor needs to be raised, then first on the wall we draw a mark of the future floor level by eye. Then we set the laser level in the center of the room and adjust it in height so that the beam coincides with the mark on the wall. Further along the beam, we mark the height of the floor around the entire perimeter of the room.

bubble level rarely used to measure the level of the floor because of its large error. For this level, you will additionally need a long and even rule. The rule is laid diagonally on the balcony and a level is placed on it. According to the indications of the bubble, one of the sides of the rule is raised or lowered until the bubble shows the horizon. You can go along the wall by applying the level at one end to the starting point. In this case, the error depends on the length of the level, the longer the device, the smaller the error.

Leveling the floor on the balcony with ceramic tiles

If the original floor surface is relatively flat, then small differences can be leveled out by laying tiles using tile adhesive. Cracks and chips on the concrete surface must be embroidered, treated with a primer and sealed with cement mortar. On the balcony, it is better to use tile adhesive designed for outdoor use and resistant to frost.

Next, the entire surface of the floor must be cleaned of dust and coated with a deep penetration primer in several layers. Each subsequent layer is applied after the previous one has completely dried. Next, a tile adhesive is applied to the concrete base with a higher dosage than required by the technology and the tiles are laid. For even and beautiful laying, it is recommended to use a special system for leveling tiles (SVP), which is shown in the photo.

This system will allow you to lay the coating as accurately as possible and at the same time maintain the width of the seam. Before applying the joint grout, the plastic elements for leveling must be knocked down with a mallet or rubber mallet. The grout should have increased moisture resistance and frost resistance if the balcony is not insulated.

Video: leveling the floor on the balcony with tiles

The difference between leveling the floor on a closed and open balcony

The very procedure for leveling floors on open and closed balconies is practically the same, but there is a difference in the materials used. For example, for an open and unglazed balcony, materials with high strength characteristics are required, such as moisture resistance, frost resistance and resistance to temperature changes. It is better not to use wooden floors in open areas due to the material's non-durability. It is better to lay cement screed or ceramic tiles.

Important. On open balconies, only materials for outdoor use should be used. It is necessary to make a floor slope from the wall to drain water or melted snow. If the outer wall of the balcony is solid, then it is necessary to provide holes for water drainage. Floor coverings should not be slippery when wet.

Screed on the balcony with cement-sand mixtures

Leveling the floor on the loggia with a solution prepared on the basis of sand and cement can be done using two technologies:

• with insulation;
• without insulation.

In closed, insulated balconies, it is advisable to insulate the floor, especially if the level of the slab relative to the floors in the apartment allows this. As a heat insulator, extruded polystyrene foam or dense foam plastic (at least 30 kg / m3) is used.

If insulation is not provided, the base is poured directly onto the slab or gravel or expanded clay bedding. Consider each floor leveling option in more detail.

First, the thickness of the thermal insulation material is determined. To do this, the thickness of the screed (for cement-sand mixtures - 4-5 cm) and the intended floor covering are subtracted from the distance between the balcony slab and the level of the future floor. With a specified distance, for example, 14 cm, and a laminate finish, the thickness of the insulation will be 14-5-1 \u003d 9 cm. Alternatively, you can make a leveling bed for 4 cm (sand, fine gravel, expanded clay), before laying polystyrene with a thickness of 5 cm.

The work is performed in the following sequence:

• bedding and its alignment with the rule;
• laying of heat-insulating plates;
• waterproofing device (a continuous polyethylene film with a thickness of at least 80 microns is sufficient);
• installation of beacons;
• pouring cement-sand mortar and leveling it along the beacons;
• excavation of horizontal guides (when it will be possible to walk carefully on the surface), sealing the formed grooves and grinding the screed.

Making a floor base without insulation

This method is used if there is already an insulated balcony (loggia) below and a leveling layer of more than 5 cm. In this case, the sequence of work processes is as follows:

• bedding device;
• rough screed;
• waterproofing (plastic film or bituminous mastic);
• installation of horizontal guides;
• pouring a finishing screed.

With the help of a cement-sand mortar, aligned with the lighthouses, a high-quality floor base is created, suitable for laying laminate, ceramic tiles, linoleum, carpet on the loggias.

To successfully level the floor on the balcony with your own hands and make a solid screed with a flat surface, use the following recommendations when working:

• to prepare a working solution, use river or washed quarry sand;
• mix sand / cement in a ratio of 4-5: 1 (when using a binder brand M-400);
• the thickness of the finishing screed should not exceed 5 cm;
• do not neglect the installation of a damper tape around the perimeter of the loggia before pouring the base of the floor, despite the fact that the area is small;
• after setting the mortar, it is desirable to moisten the surface daily, especially in the hot season for better hydration and ultimate strength of the floor base;
• as beacons with a layer thickness of 3 cm or more, use (conveniently) a guide profile (UD) or a profiled pipe with a square section.

If the thickness of the leveling layer is insignificant (up to 3-4 cm), it is advisable to use ready-made packaged mixtures (levelers) for leveling.

Video: leveling the floor with a liquid screed

Tools and materials for cement screed

For work on laying a cement-sand screed, you will need:

• River sand and cement
• Aluminum or metal beacons,
• Rule for leveling cement screed,
• Bubble level for installing beacons,
• Trowel and grater for smoothing the top layer,
• Mixer or perforator with a nozzle for mixing the solution.

Important! When mixing cement at home, it is recommended to use a perforator or a construction mixer. It is not recommended to use an ordinary drill for kneading, as a large load can damage the tool.

Screed device using ready-made polymer-cement mixtures

There are several types of floor levelers on the market today. In terms of composition, scope and method of application, such products are approximately similar, regardless of who produced it. Given the small area of ​​​​the balcony room, here the use of ready-made mixtures with a small thickness of the screed is preferable. It turns out only a little more expensive, but the rovers are much more convenient in work due to such features:

• a mortar is prepared using a construction mixer, the mixture / water proportions are always indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging;
• the resulting solution is plastic, which greatly simplifies the leveling process (the filler does not settle, so it is not necessary to rush);
• it is possible to form a thin layer (from 1 cm) if necessary;
• the finished surface gains operational strength faster (7-10 days);
• there is no need to maintain humidity during the maturation period of the solution.

The technology for using ready-made mixtures for leveling the floor practically does not differ from that for self-made cement-sand mixtures. The difference is that with a small thickness of the fill, it is enough to treat the base with a primer and not make waterproofing, even in Khrushchev.

Tools and materials for self-levelling compound

To pour a self-leveling compound, you will need:

• Ready mixture in the right amount,
• Deep penetration primer
• Metal or plastic needle roller for spreading the mixture and removing air bubbles,
• Mixer for mixing the mixture,
• Brush and roller for applying primer,
• Damper tape, glued around the perimeter of the room to compensate for the expansion of the bulk layer when dried,
• Spatula for preliminary leveling of the solution.

Important. Before applying the self-levelling compound, it is highly recommended to coat the surface with a waterproofing primer in several layers. The primer will not allow the cement screed to absorb moisture from the bulk mortar and ensure uniform drying.

Lag Alignment

Creating a flat surface based on a frame made of wooden blocks has many advantages, such as:

• the “dry” method, so the created base is immediately ready for further laying of floor materials (no need to wait for setting, maturation, drying). This option is suitable for those who are looking for an option on how to level the floor on the balcony without a screed;
• it is convenient to insulate the space between the lags with your own hands, and the choice of materials for thermal insulation is much wider (in addition to polystyrenes, varieties of mineral wool, ecowool, polyurethane foam are used);
• having selected the appropriate section of the bars, the floor easily rises to the intended level;
• installing a log does not require special skills, so any home master can level the floor on the loggia in this way.

This method of creating a floor base also has disadvantages. The created surface is not suitable for laying tiles. The durability of the lag directly depends on the quality of the wood, which is sometimes low. In addition, lumber must be well dried and impregnated with protective compounds. These are additional time and material costs.

The method, among other things, is good in that various materials can be used as a lag sheathing, such as:

• floor board;
• chipboard and OSB boards;
• plywood.

Recently, OSB boards and plywood have been preferred, as they are the universal basis for laying most floor finishes. Some types of OSB can even be tiled. See the video plot for the technology of creating a plywood floor base on the loggia along the logs.

Tools and materials for the floor by logs

Leveling the floor with lags is recommended only on closed balconies and loggias. The method allows you to reduce the load on the slab, significantly increase the height of the floor and insulate the balcony with high quality. To backfill a dry screed, you will need:

• Wooden bars 50x50 mm,
• waterproofing film,
• Insulation material if required
• Dowels for attaching the lag to the base,
• wood screws,
• Finishing material.

Video - how to level the floor on the balcony along the logs

Important! When using varieties of mineral wool as a heat-insulating material, double-sided waterproofing of the insulation is necessarily done. A special film is used that allows steam to pass through, while retaining condensed moisture. This rule is true not only for loggias and balconies, but also for covered terraces and other premises.

Dry screed

The newly developed gypsum fiber subfloor technology is increasingly becoming the choice when it comes to leveling the surface for laying floor finishes. The essence of the technique is as follows:

• along the exposed horizontal guides, a flat surface is arranged from fine (fraction 1-5 mm) expanded clay;
• the guides are removed, gypsum fiber boards are laid on the backfill, joined with specially made grooves;
• docking occurs with the use of glue, after which the locks are additionally tightened with self-tapping screws.

The result is a dry, even base suitable for laying most floor materials (carpet, laminate, linoleum). The advantages of the technology are:

• the work is done quickly, it is easy to do it yourself;
• the surface is strong, ready for further laying of finishing materials immediately after assembly;
• the use of expanded clay as a bedding gives a good soundproofing effect and insulation.

However, the gypsum fiber board is unstable to moisture, which causes restrictions on the installation of a dry screed in some rooms, such as:

• bathroom;
• kitchen;
• insufficiently isolated from external influences loggias, terraces, balconies.

Tools and materials for dry screed

To lay a dry screed on the balcony you will need:

• Dry mix for screed (slag or expanded clay),
• Edge tape for installation around the perimeter of the room,
• Film to provide waterproofing of the screed from the bottom,
• U-shaped profiles as beacons,
• The rule for aligning the mixture by beacons.

Video: laying a dry screed on the floor

The final choice of the appropriate flooring technology will depend on the specific conditions and individual preferences.

Summary table of ways to level the floor by rating

Material	Price	Installation time	pros	Minuses	Rating
Concrete screed	From 2 to 5 thousand rubles / m2 (without materials).	Terms of complete drying from 30 to 45 days.	Long service life, high strength, environmental friendliness, easy maintenance, versatility, beautiful design.	High weight, dirty and wet processes, shrinkage potential, long drying time, high thermal conductivity.	6 out of 10
Self-leveling floors	From 1.5 to 8.5 thousand rubles / m2 (the price depends on the type of self-leveling floor).	Full drying time up to 7 days	Seamless surface, versatility, aesthetics, wear resistance, impact resistance, maintainability, environmental friendliness, moisture resistance, durability, fast curing speed,	Labor-intensive process of preparing the base floor, vapor permeability, mandatory floor insulation, high cost.	10 out of 10
Semi-dry screed	About 450 rubles / m2.	One day up to 250 m2.	Small volume of water, leakage is excluded, achievement of a perfectly flat surface, shrinkage is excluded, cracks are excluded, resistance to mechanical stress, light weight, after 12 hours, put into operation, dust and dirt are excluded.	The need to use special equipment is afraid of moisture, due to poor sealing, partial destruction is possible.	9 out of 10
Dry screed	In the region of 500–900 rubles / m2.	Installation is possible in 2 days (depending on the quality of the base).	Low weight of the screed, minimal labor costs, the possibility of laying communications, thermal insulation of the floor, sound insulation, the possibility of leveling the floor at sub-zero temperatures, dust and dirt are excluded.	It is afraid of moisture, it is impossible to install underfloor heating, instability to mechanical stress, it is possible to introduce rodents.	8 out of 10
Plywood	From 150 to 350 rubles/m2 (depending on the installation method).		Can be assembled by yourself, fast alignment time, durable and even coating, heat insulation, sound insulation, raw material is cheap.	With the wrong choice, plywood will creak, the possibility of swelling and deformation due to moisture, sensitivity to temperature changes.	6 out of 10
GVL	In the area about 1300 rubles / m2.	From 1 to 7 days (depending on the readiness of the base).	Moisture resistance, coating density, environmental friendliness, sound insulation, heat insulation, does not burn, does not deform when the temperature fluctuates, easy installation.	High brittleness of the material, high cost, can not withstand a large static load.	5 out of 10
OSB	About 800 rubles / m2.	From 1 to 7 days (depending on the readiness of the base).	High strength, low weight, elasticity of the floor, homogeneous structure, does not collapse during operation, thermal insulation, sound insulation, resistance to chemical compounds.	The presence of phenol, a harmful substance. Therefore, you need to make a choice carefully. Low resistance to moisture.	5 out of 10
Green Board panels	About 300 rubles / m2.	From 1 to 7 days (depending on the readiness of the base).	Strength, environmental friendliness, fire resistance, sound insulation, structural strength.	Large weight, installation of a counter-lattice, very dusty when cutting, a finish coating is required.	7 out of 10

We hope that the answer to the question of how to level the floor on the balcony is fully covered. The final choice of the appropriate do-it-yourself flooring technology for a loggia or terrace will depend on specific conditions and individual preferences. The main thing is that there are ways, they are not complicated and effective, even if we are talking about the Khrushchev balcony.

From the author: hello dear reader. Recently, I had the opportunity to move into a new apartment in a standard nine-story building built in the late neon 1980s. So this apartment was new only for me, and not in general. And, apparently, the repair in it since the construction was done only once. So I, as a full-fledged owner of the apartments, had to start repair work on my own.

The balcony deserved special attention, as its condition was far from ideal. And since it was large enough, my plans included turning it into a full-fledged living space in order to organize a workplace with a PC there. This article is not able to accommodate the entire complex of works on the reconstruction of the balcony, so today we will analyze only one topic: how to level the floor on the balcony with our own hands.

All procedures for leveling the floor on the balcony / loggia come down to two methods:

• leveling with a cement screed;
• alignment with wooden lag.

We will analyze these two scenarios in detail, point out specific points in the work, and also find out which flooring should be chosen for a loggia or balcony. In addition, you will learn what kind of work to level the base should be carried out if you decide to leave your balcony unglazed. So let's get started.

Leveling the floor with a screed

If you decide to level the floor with a screed, you first need to "deal" with the old coating. There may be an old tile, and just an uncoated screed, which has already become unusable in places (or completely). If so, then the old tile / screed should be disposed of. To do this, use a puncher or a jackhammer. Only you need to work carefully so as not to damage the stove itself. Anything can happen, and the collapse of the balcony is not in our plans, is it?

If the screed on the balcony is in relatively good condition, and not particularly crooked, then perhaps you can do without pouring. Although, if you want to achieve a perfectly flat surface, a self-leveling floor is at your service. But now we are not talking about self-leveling floors, but about a full-fledged cement-sand screed.

So, we got rid of the old screed. Now, using a brush, a layer of primer should be applied to the work surface. Penetrating primer provides reliable adhesion of the solution to the surface, and in addition - has an antiseptic effect. Simply put, it protects against mold.

Since we need to achieve a perfectly even base, we should use the building level. You can bubble, but laser is better. Firstly, it is more convenient to work with it, and secondly, it will give a more accurate result. If you do not have such specific equipment (as, however, happened in my case), it is not necessary to clean it up, since such a device is not cheap. You can take it for temporary use in the construction supermarket, where there is a "Tool rental" service. Or ask friends/neighbours.

So let's say you already have a laser level. Now we need to set the zero mark. Here's what's to be done:

• set the level at the highest corner or the highest point in the center;
• turn on the laser;
• using a pencil, mark on the wall the points that the laser “painted”. By the way, some laser levels cast not points, but lines to the surface, which is much more convenient;
• turn the level while holding the tripod to transfer the horizontal lines to all the walls.

If you have never used such a tool before, be sure to read the instructions, because due to one seemingly minor mistake, the entire floor may turn out to be crooked after completion of work. And this is certainly not included in our plans.

After the height level of the screed is determined, you can proceed with the installation of beacons, along which the surface will be leveled. The step between them should, as a rule, be from 30 to 50 cm. By the way, I would like to remind you of the existence of warm floors. Although, if you decide to thoroughly insulate, you probably know about this technology. But in fairness, I would like to note that a warm floor is laid at this stage, - before (!) pouring the screed.

Also, in some cases, reinforcement is performed before pouring. But most often they lay reinforcement in cases where the balcony will not be glazed in the future. And more about beacons: before starting pouring, you should wait until the solution that fixes them seizes. At a temperature of 20–25°C, several hours are sufficient. On if the work is performed at a temperature lower, it may take 12 hours, or even a day. In general, look at the circumstances.

Preparation of mortar for pouring the floor

Be prepared for the fact that pouring the floor is a rather dirty and hard job. Even if we are talking about such a seemingly small area as the area of ​​​​the loggia / balcony. The proportions for preparing a floor screed can be expressed by a simple formula: 1:2:1.2. That is:

• 1 - cement;
• 2 - sand;
• 1,2 - water.

Of course, these proportions can be adjusted at your discretion. For example, it is quite difficult to determine exactly how much water is needed. H2O should be added in such an amount that the consistency of the mixture resembles thick sour cream in its structure. That is, it should not be too liquid and not too dry. For greater strength, the amount of sand is also increased. This usually happens if the floor will be subjected to heavy loads during operation.

For additional thermal insulation, expanded clay can be added to the screed. This is a versatile, reliable insulation that has been successfully used in construction for over a hundred years. It can be added in arbitrary proportions, but, as a rule, for reliable thermal insulation it is added in proportions from four to eight. Therefore, the formula for preparing a screed with the addition of expanded clay will look like this: 1: 2: 1.2: 4–8, where 4–8 is expanded clay.

In addition to expanded clay, the composition of the screed solution may also contain reinforcing fiber. As a rule, this component is added in proportions of 0.6–0.9 kg per 1 m³.

To fill the floor, special gypsum screeds are also used. They are used to eliminate minor flaws in the work surface. But the use of gypsum screed has its limitations: it is not suitable for rooms with high humidity. The main advantage of this leveling method is relatively fast drying (up to three days) and relative ease of use.

Both gypsum and cement mixtures can be purchased at a hardware store. All the necessary components have already been added to such compositions, so you do not have to think about the proportions in which to prepare the screed. It is logical that a ready-made mixture will cost you more than purchasing all the constituent components separately.

Important! When purchasing cement (or ready-made composition), pay attention to the brand. The higher this figure, the better your screed will be.

The calculation of the required amount of mortar, as a rule, occurs as follows: multiplying the floor area by the thickness of the fill layer. For example, the floor surface area is 5 m², and the estimated thickness of the screed is 7 cm. Therefore, 5 × 0.07 \u003d 0.35 m³.

After you have completed the necessary calculations and purchased the necessary building materials, it's time to start preparing the composition. Here's how to do it:

• mix cement and sand thoroughly in accordance with the proportions we have chosen. For mixing, it is better to use a drill mixer, since mixing the solution by hand is a difficult and inefficient task;
• mix the plasticizer with water - in another container. The proportions in which this material is added are indicated in the instructions on the package. But, as a rule, 380-400 g is used per 100 kg of cement. In addition, reinforcing fiber can be added;
• Gradually add dry ingredients to a container of water. But (!) not vice versa - otherwise the solution will turn out to be inhomogeneous;
• mix the resulting composition thoroughly.

Ready. Now you can start filling. The mixture should be poured between the beacons, and then leveled with a rule. Here, as with the preparation of the mixture, skill is needed, so if you have not done this before, you may not get exactly what you expected. So it is better to carry out these works not alone, but with a comrade who is more enlightened in the repair and construction issue. In addition, doing the work of pouring alone is quite problematic. Either way, you'll need an assistant.

After the screed has completely dried (and it dries for quite a long time - up to several weeks), you can start laying the floor covering. We will talk about which floor covering to choose for the balcony / loggia in the following sections of the article. But keep in mind that laying should be done only (!) After complete drying.

To check if the screed is dry, it is enough to take a small piece of oilcloth, put it on the screed, fix it with tape around the perimeter and leave it for about 12 hours. If during this time a wet area has formed under the oilcloth, this means that the screed is damp and it is too early to lay the floor covering. If it is dry under the oilcloth, it's time to start laying.

So we learned how to pour the screed on the balcony or loggia. Keep in mind that this section of the article is intended for people who already have an idea about filling. So, if you are already completely new to this business, you should seek advice not from Yandex or Google, but from a more experienced master than you.

Alignment with log

We successfully dealt with the screed. Now we level the floor on the loggia or balcony with the help of wooden logs. This type of alignment is physically easier to perform, so you may not need third party assistance. But this is only if you have a specific idea about this process. From building materials we need:

• plywood or OSB (preferably at least 20 mm thick);
• dry timber (preferably from pine) with a section of 60 × 40 mm. But, in principle, 40 × 40 mm or 30 × 40 mm will do.

In addition, we need to prepare the following set of tools:

• wood saw;
• electric jigsaw;
• electric circular saw;
• perforator drill;
• screwdriver;
• building level (preferably laser);
• roulette;
• dowels / screws.

Now it's time to start installing the lag. First of all, remove all small debris from the surface, and then mark the floor level. In order to further protect the base from negative influences, a primer can be applied to it. Usually the floor in the room is higher than the floor of the loggia or balcony. Of course, the topcoat and frame should not exceed the floor level of the room. To mark the horizontal plane of the floor, use a laser or water level. Preferably, of course, laser. In this case, the procedure for marking work surfaces using a level is completely identical to how we marked the surfaces in the case of pouring the screed. To install wooden logs, you should measure the distance from the floor of the balcony to the zero level, while marking the lowest and highest points.

Before laying the frame, roofing material should be laid as a waterproofing. As a rule, it is laid with an overlap of 15 cm. The overlap on the walls should be at least 5 cm. However, special mastic can be used as waterproofing, which is evenly applied to the surface, and ordinary oilcloth, which is fastened with ordinary wide adhesive tape.

Then install a wooden crate / logs on the waterproofing layer. For this purpose, I recommend using dry pine timber with parameters exactly 60 × 40 mm. Trimmings of the same beam can be used as supports for transverse logs, which should be placed at intervals of approximately 50 cm. Of course, they should be attached to the concrete floor with self-tapping screws, which should go into the dowel at least 2 cm. This is where we need and perforator drill, and a screwdriver. The step between the screws can be arbitrary. 15-20 cm will be enough.

In turn, the step between the bars, as a rule, is 50 cm. In low places, wooden dies should be placed under the bars. During work, you need to constantly monitor the process with a building level so as not to make a mistake. Otherwise, the floor may be uneven.

The distance of the first log from the wall of the balcony should be approximately 10–15 cm, and the gap between the walls and the ends of the log should be from 5 cm. In construction, this distance is called the expansion gap. It is needed in order to give the lags room to deform during use. For example, if there is high humidity in the air, as is often the case in spring and autumn, the logs will inevitably swell and stretch. If you put them back to back, then most likely they will bend and ruin the floor covering, for example, laminate. In addition, each beam that is part of the crate should be treated with an antiseptic or at least a primer.

We will assume that the crate is ready for us. Now it will be useful to place a heater in the frame section, for example, mineral wool or polystyrene. In the cold season, the floor is always cold on the balcony or loggia, so insulation here will come in handy. This, of course, is not underfloor heating technology, but rest assured that properly installed insulation will also cope with the mission assigned to it.

When laying insulation, there is nothing particularly complicated. The main thing is to check that the edges of the foam or mineral wool pieces fit snugly against the frame elements so that in the future so-called “cold islands” do not form on the floor. Mineral wool must not be compacted or exposed to moisture. For this reason, after laying it on top, a layer of waterproofing in the form of oilcloth should be laid, which is fixed to the logs with a construction stapler in increments of 15–20 cm.

It would be advisable to fill the distance between the walls of the balcony and the frame elements with mounting foam. It also has thermal insulation properties.

Now that all the necessary steps have been completed, you can proceed with the installation of plywood or OSB. As we understand it, the coating is attached to the wooden frame using self-tapping screws, and cut according to measurements using a jigsaw or electric saw. Both between the sheets and the wall, and directly between the sheets, a delatation gap should also be left so as not to prevent the material from freely deforming under the influence of changes in humidity and temperature. This distance should be 3–5 mm.

Floor covering

After fixing the sheets, theoretically, you can start laying the flooring. But you can proceed to this stage of work only if you have already done all the other work to repair the premises. That is, they insulated the walls, the parapet, completed the finishing of the walls and ceiling, inserted double-glazed windows.

On a flat and hard floor of a glazed balcony (it doesn’t matter if concrete or plywood / OSB) you can lay absolutely any floor covering: even parquet, even laminate, even linoleum. Naturally, the choice is yours, but I would recommend using semi-commercial or residential linoleum on a foam base. The protective layer of the semi-commercial coating ranges from 0.4 mm to 0.6 mm. Accordingly, for household - from 0.1 to 0.3 mm. I assume that on the balcony the floor will not be subjected to frequent and intense mechanical stress, so a coating with a protective layer of 0.2-0.3 mm will be enough.

On our site there are separate articles on the topics of how to lay linoleum on a wooden floor and how to lay linoleum on a concrete floor. I recommend that you familiarize yourself with these materials in order to avoid mistakes when laying. And now we will learn how to level the floor if you decide not to install double-glazed windows on the balcony.

How to level the base on an unglazed balcony?

This topic is quite extensive and worthy of coverage in a separate article. But here we will briefly review the order of the necessary steps so that you can get an idea of ​​\u200b\u200bthis process.

Most often, balconies in country houses are left unglazed. Why? Everything is very simple. The owners mainly come to the dacha in the summer, when nothing interferes with the comfortable use of the balcony space. In addition, you can often see a vine around it. And picking grapes from a glazed balcony is not very convenient. When building a country house or just a private house, the owner, as a rule, expects that there is enough space in the house and there is no need to expand the living space, as happens in city apartments.

Although I personally had to notice unglazed balconies in apartment buildings. Moreover, these were repaired balconies with a metal fence. In addition, intentionally unglazed balconies are often found, say, in hotels and hostels.

So, here is what work should be done to level the floor on the open balcony (which, presumably, will remain open):

• dismantling of the old tile / old screed using a perforator or chipper. Again, dismantling should be done carefully so as not to overdo it and not damage the stove itself. It is impossible to pour a new screed directly onto the old one, without dismantling it. The design will become very heavy, so it is not a fact that the balcony will withstand;
• applying a primer;
• formwork construction. At the same time, make sure that the solution does not flow down through the cracks onto the neighbors;
• laying reinforcing mesh and fixing with self-tapping screws;
• installation of guide beacons. You can’t do without them, since on an unglazed balcony it is necessary to create a slope so that snow and water do not linger on the floor. As a rule, this slope is 3–5°. These beacons should be installed along the length of the wall so that they can immediately determine the slope (the one closer to the wall, of course, should be higher);
• preparation and pouring of the solution;
• leveling with the help of a rule.

Ready. Now you need to wait for the solution to dry and then lay the floor covering. For an open balcony, as you understand, linoleum or laminate will not work. Here, floor tiles or garden parquet will be used. But for reasons of durability, I would still recommend high-quality tiles.

Naturally, when buying a tile, pay attention to its grade. And, of course, choose the first one. The second and third - let's just say, not of the highest quality. You should purchase tiles with a margin, since anything is possible during the installation process. Maybe a few of your tiles will still break.

If the balcony already has the desired slope, but the condition of the screed is not ideal, you can level the base with tiles. But, of course, you can not lay tiles on an unprepared base. Cracks need to be widened, cleaned of dust, primer applied to damaged areas, and then grouted. The same applies to potholes on the work surface.

Now that all the irregularities are patched up, you can begin to prepare the adhesive composition for the tiles. Keep in mind that the adhesive that is used when laying indoors is not suitable for the street.

The composition is applied using a notched trowel, the size of the teeth of which depends on the size of the tile itself. Here are the parameters to consider when choosing a spatula:

• teeth size 4×4 mm. Used for tiles 10×10 cm in size, only (!) with a flat back;
• tooth size 6×6mm - for tiles 20×20, 15×20 and 10×10 cm in size, which have an uneven back side;
• 8×8 mm - for tiles up to 30×30 cm;
• 10×10mm - for tiles 30×30 cm, the thickness of which is from 10 mm;
• 12.5×20/15×20 mm - tiles larger than 30×30 cm.

Since, according to the condition of the problem, our screed is not quite even, a little more glue should be applied to its surface than usual. On the back side of the tile, glue should also be applied with a notched trowel. The direction of the grooves on the floor surface and on the tile is desirable to be made perpendicular. Between the tiles, special cross stitching should be inserted, which will help maintain the same distance between them. This distance is not just an element of decor, but, first of all, a delatation gap. Thanks to him, the tile will last much longer. Usually this distance is from 2 to 4 mm.

Glue that protrudes beyond the boundaries of the tile during installation should be wiped off. After laying the tiles and the glue is completely dry, apply grout with a rubber spatula, wipe the surface with a rag - and you're done.

High-quality outdoor tiles, laid in accordance with all the rules, will last at least 15-20 years. Therefore, such a solution is not only aesthetically attractive, but also quite practical.

Instead of a conclusion

That's all for today, dear reader. Our text turned out to be quite voluminous, but I hope that you got an idea about leveling the floors on the loggia and balcony and found answers to your questions on the topic. Do not forget that the article is intended for people who are no longer completely new to the repair and construction craft, so if you have any questions, you can feel free to ask them in the comments below the text.

P.S. For clarity, watch the video, which demonstrates the process of leveling the floor using a self-leveling mixture: