Growing petiole celery from seeds. Petiole celery - growing from seeds
Celery has been known since ancient Greece. It was here that a cultivated plant was bred from a wild variety and elevated to the rank of sacred. Decorations for the dead were made from celery, and its image was minted on coins. Celery was not grown in Europe until the 16th century. At the same time, the plant appeared in Russian pharmaceutical gardens. At first it was used for medicinal purposes and only over time began to be used as an aromatic seasoning that significantly improves the smell and taste of food. Today, there are several varieties of this unique plant, among which petiole celery occupies a special place.
What is a vegetable
Petiole celery belongs to the umbelliferous family. The vegetable boasts a relationship with such popular and well-known crops as carrots, cumin, coriander, anise, etc. This is a biennial plant that is planted with seeds, and in the first year of its life cycle it forms a stem and rhizome, and in the second year it blooms and produces fruits . As a vegetable crop, petiole celery is usually grown only for one season, since the stem and leaves of the plant are mainly used for food. Vegetable seeds have more limited uses.
Externally, celery resembles parsley: it has pinnately dissected leaves, collected in a rosette, and a taproot. The inflorescences are a kind of umbrellas and consist of a large number of small flowers. The culture can grow up to 1 m in height, it is moisture-loving and cold-resistant. High-quality petioles are obtained only in the first year of the plant’s growing season.
The benefits and harms of petiole celery
First of all, we must say about the use of stalked celery in cooking. The stems of the plant are ideal for stewing and frying; they are added raw to various salads. The product goes perfectly with meat and fish dishes. A very healthy juice and aromatic tea are made from it. 
The juice of the plant is quickly absorbed by our body, penetrating into cells through the blood and lymph.
One of the most remarkable properties of celery is its low, almost negative calorie content: the human body spends more calories digesting celery products than it receives when consuming them.
In addition, celery is able to actively burn fat, so its consumption is indispensable for people who control their weight and seriously monitor their health. Experts note the following factors for the beneficial effects of celery products on our body:
- it promotes cleansing of toxins;
- strengthens the immune system;
- has a beneficial effect on digestion;
- slows down the aging process and helps cope with senile dementia;
- normalizes metabolism;
- cures burns, cuts, inflammations, hematomas and other skin disorders;
- has a calming effect;
- has a beneficial effect on the condition of the hair.
- hypertension;
- obesity;
- diseases of the genitourinary system;
- rheumatism.
Such a wide range of usefulness is associated with the content of a huge amount of essential vitamins and minerals in the culture, including:
- potassium;
- phosphorus;
- zinc;
- calcium;
- gland;
- vitamins of groups A, B, C, PP, E.
Daily consumption of two tablespoons of chopped celery greens provides the daily need of the human body for carotene and vitamin C.
Contraindications
People suffering from gastric ulcers, varicose veins, thrombophlebitis, urolithiasis, and epilepsy should avoid consuming the plant in any form. The vegetable is not recommended for pregnant women and nursing mothers, since consuming spicy greens can cause increased gas formation, which will negatively affect the gestating fetus, as well as the digestion of the baby, who will receive the product along with the mother’s breast milk. Celery gives milk a specific smell and taste, which can cause a baby to refuse to breastfeed.
Video: celery - benefits, harm and contraindications
There are three varieties of celery: root, leaf and petiole. Root varieties are grown for their useful and nutritious root, which reaches a 10-centimeter diameter. The aerial part of root celery can also be eaten, but since the variety has a long growing season (from 150 days), during which it is not recommended to cut the stems of the plant, it is not grown for greens. For this purpose, leaf celery is planted, which quickly forms a rosette with delicate leaves, and has regular, small petioles.
Petiole celery is also grown for its greenery. It does not form thickenings on the root, like leafy varieties, but has large leaves and juicy, elastic, fleshy petioles, reaching four centimeters in thickness.
When growing celery of various types, plant care has a number of features Today, the market offers a large assortment of petiole celery seeds. Among gardeners, varieties of domestic selection are popular, which are adapted to our weather conditions, are not afraid of frost, are resistant to many common diseases, and produce juicy petioles with good taste.
Table: varieties of petiole celery included in the State Register of Breeding Achievements of the Russian Federation
| Variety name | Plant characteristics | Ripening time | Weight of one plant, kg | Productivity, kg/sq.m |
| Arthur |
| Mid-season, period from germination to harvesting - 110 days | 0,2–0,3 | about 5.9 |
| Atlant |
| Mid-season, period from germination to harvesting - 165 days | 0,3–0,35 | more than 3 |
| Vyacheslav |
| Mid-season, period from germination to harvesting - 120 days | 0,15 | up to 2 |
| Groom |
| Mid-season, period from germination to harvesting - 150 days | about 0.4 | about 3 |
| Gold |
| Mid-season | 0,8 | up to 5 |
| Royal |
| Mid-season, period from germination to harvesting - 95 days | 0,18 | around 5 |
| Malachite |
| Early ripening | 1,2 | about 4 |
| Pascal |
| Mid-season | 0,2–0,45 | about 4 |
| Tango |
| Mid-season, the period from germination to the start of harvesting is 160–180 days | 1 | about 4 |
| Crunch |
| Mid-season, the period from germination to the start of harvesting is 140–160 days | 0,35–0,4 | about 3.5 |
| Utah |
| Mid-season | 0,35 | more than 3.5 |
Photo gallery: petiole varieties of celery of domestic selection
Golden - an early variety that allows you to grow juicy, full-bodied petioles with excellent taste 
The stalks of celery of the Atlant variety need to be bleached. The celery of the Groom variety goes well with various varieties of green salad, nuts, tomatoes, leeks, it is appropriate to serve it as a side dish for high-calorie dishes. The Royal variety is suitable not only for salad, but also for freezing or drying. Early The Malachite variety provides the owner of the plot with a good harvest of juicy, rich green, tasty and aromatic petioles in a short time. Pascal celery petioles have an intense dark green color and reach a length of up to 20 cm. Tango celery petioles have excellent taste and aromatic qualities and retain their marketability for a long time. The big advantage of the Khrust variety of celery is its cold resistance. The powerful petioles of the Utah variety of celery are very aromatic and retain their juiciness for a long time.
Planting petiole celery
Growing petiole celery cannot be called a simple matter, but if you know the features and take into account the requirements of this plant, then success will be guaranteed. Early varieties of this variety can be planted directly from seeds directly into open ground. Such sowing is carried out approximately in the second ten days of April. But you need to take into account the following risks:
- You shouldn’t count on the seedlings being friendly;
- It will be difficult to care for young plants. Considering that in the initial stage of the growing season, celery develops very slowly, it will be problematic to fight weeds, as well as protect the seedlings from weather disasters.
Most often, when growing petiole celery, they resort to the seedling method, which is more guaranteed to produce fresh and healthy greens for the dinner table.
Seedlings can be grown in a greenhouse, since celery is a cold-resistant plant and its seedlings easily tolerate frost. If this is not possible, then sowing in containers that will stand on the windowsill is quite suitable.
Before sowing seeds, you need to prepare a planting container and suitable soil. As containers, you can use either special containers and trays for growing seedlings, or any available material: wooden or plastic boxes, yogurt packaging, and even plastic bags. The main thing is to provide a drainage layer in them, which will not allow excess moisture to stagnate in the containers. 
Growing in cassettes allows plants to form a root system that will penetrate the entire substrate and not be damaged during transplantation
The soil for sowing seeds must be nutritious and must be moisture- and breathable. The following composition is perfect:
- peat;
- humus;
- coarse river sand;
- turf land
in a ratio of 3:1:0.5:1. To 10 liters of prepared and thoroughly mixed soil, add urea (1 teaspoon) and wood ash (2 cups).
To disinfect the soil mixture, a few days before sowing, boiling water is poured with the addition of potassium permanganate (a slightly pink solution).
Seed preparation
This is a very important stage in growing a crop. Petiole celery seeds have several specific features:
- their germination rate depends on age, but over time it does not deteriorate, but rather increases. Therefore, the most friendly shoots will appear from seeds that have been lying around for 3–4 years;
- The plant contains essential oils that prevent the seeds from quickly absorbing moisture, and the germination process can take several weeks.
Celery seeds are very similar in appearance to parsley and carrot seeds. There are various ways to speed up seed germination:
Since celery seeds are small, after drying they can be mixed with sand and sown in the ground in this composition.
Sowing seedlings
The timing of planting petiole celery for seedlings depends on the variety and its growing season. If it is about 120 days, then sowing should be done in the first ten days of March. With proper seed preparation, seedlings will appear in 1–2 weeks. It is recommended to plant two-month-old celery seedlings in the ground.
The planting process itself is carried out completely standardly. It includes the following steps:
Further care of seedlings
When the first shoots appear, the seedlings need to be provided with good lighting and a comfortable temperature (about +16 degrees). A higher temperature will promote elongation of seedlings. Most often, the sprouts that appear are thin and grow very slowly for the first month. After about 30 days, they will have only 1-2 true leaves. At this time, it is necessary to carry out thinning, leaving the plants at a distance of 4–5 cm from each other, adding soil or planting seedlings, if this method of cultivation was provided. 
When two leaves appear on the celery seedlings, the plants can be transplanted so that the roots have more room to grow
If conditions permit, young plants can be transplanted into a greenhouse for growing. Transplantation is carried out in furrows located at a distance of 5–6 cm, plants are also planted every 5–6 cm.
The picking is carried out carefully, planting the seedlings in individual containers at least 10 cm deep, trying not to damage the root, deepening the seedlings to the cotyledon leaves, without covering the central growth bud with soil. This procedure stimulates the development of lateral roots in seedlings, which will have a beneficial effect on the strength and endurance of the seedlings. 
When picking, the seedlings are lowered into the prepared hole, making sure that the root does not bend and remains in an upright position.
After picking, the seedlings are watered and shaded from direct sunlight. The optimal temperature for seedlings during this period will be +15–16 degrees. Keeping seedlings at temperatures below +10 can lead to the fact that after transplanting to a permanent place, such plants will begin to bloom and will not produce juicy and elastic stems.
If, when preparing the soil mixture, the soil was filled with nitrogen fertilizers in sufficient quantities, the seedlings will have a rich color. If the color of the leaves is weak, it can be fed with urea (1 teaspoon per 10 liters of water). Such fertilizing is carried out three times during the growing of seedlings (once every two weeks), always at the root.
A week before planting in open ground, you should begin hardening off the plants. They are taken out into the open air, first for several hours, then for the whole day, and before landing they are left overnight.
Seedlings ready for planting should be strong, at least 10 cm high, have 4–5 true leaves and a root system that is well entwined with the earthen ball.
Transplanting seedlings to the garden bed
It is recommended to plant celery seedlings in the garden in mid-May, after consistently warm weather has established itself and the soil has warmed up well. 
If you do not have the opportunity to grow celery seedlings, you can purchase them, but remember: good planting material is plants whose height reaches 13–15 cm, with a strong root system and four to five leaves
Experienced gardeners note that under favorable weather conditions and the seedlings are ready, it is possible to plant them in the beds earlier. Plants planted at such a time often produce the best harvest. But with early planting, there is a risk that the petiole celery will produce flower stalks.
The site for planting petiole celery is selected and prepared in advance. Preference should be given to an open sunny place with well-fertilized soil of neutral acidity. In poor, dry soil you will get plants with thin, fibrous, possibly hollow petioles.
For autumn digging per 1 sq. meter contribute
- humus or compost (10 kg);
- ash (1 cup);
- superphosphate (1 tablespoon).
If necessary, lime the soil. A bed prepared in this way in the spring only needs to be loosened. Good predecessors for petiole celery would be
- tomatoes;
- cabbage;
- cucumbers;
- zucchini;
- pumpkin;
- salad;
- legumes;
- spinach.
It is not advisable to plant celery after
- potatoes;
- corn;
- parsnip;
- parsley;
- carrots.
Petiole celery can be used as a compacting crop for
- tomatoes;
- legumes;
- any types of cabbage;
- Luke.
Celery goes well next to cabbage in the same bed These vegetables will benefit from such proximity, because celery has a strong smell that will repel many pests.
The scheme for planting seedlings in open ground will depend on varietal characteristics: height of the bush, spreading of the rosette. The minimum distance between rows and between plants in a row will be 25 cm. For planting petiole varieties with a high spreading rosette, it is more reasonable to choose a 50x40 cm pattern. 
Self-bleaching varieties of petiole celery should be planted in the garden bed so that there is a distance of 25 cm between the seedlings. Seedlings of varieties that will need to be bleached are best planted in furrows at a distance of 30 cm from each other
The transplant is carried out as follows:
For weak seedlings, you can organize a mini-greenhouse from a cut plastic bottle right in the garden bed
How to care for celery in open ground
Further care of the plant is simple and falls within the framework of the standard rules of agricultural technology for cultivating any garden crop:
- Watering is carried out based on the needs of the plant and weather conditions. Celery needs quite a lot of water to grow well. The norm for watering a plant in dry weather is about 20 liters per 1 square meter. meter. But excessive waterlogging, leading to stagnation of moisture, as well as drying out of the top layer of soil, will negatively affect the quality and yield of petioles. With a lack of moisture, the middle part of the stem can become fibrous, cracked and empty, and waterlogging provokes the development of fungal infections that initially affect the leaves and then the petioles of the plant;
- Compaction of the top layer of soil should not be allowed. Its loosening is carried out after each watering or rain. The depth of loosening the beds with young plants is 5–6 cm, the soil around adult bushes is loosened deeper - 15 cm.
To prevent moisture evaporation and provide the plant roots with more oxygen, immediately after planting celery, the soil around it should be mulched with peat, sawdust, mown grass or straw. Juicy and thick celery petioles can only be obtained if the plant grows continuously throughout the growing season. Stunted growth can be caused by a lack of moisture, nutrients or compaction of the top layer of soil - then the plant does not receive enough oxygen.
Features of feeding petiole celery
Petiole celery actively responds to fertilization. To feed the plant, you can use humus, manure, ash, and mineral complexes. A feature of feeding petiole celery is that when choosing fertilizers, they choose formulations in which nitrogen and potassium are present in approximately equal proportions.
Table: “summer menu” for celery
| Timing of fertilizing | View | Compound | Peculiarities |
| Two weeks after planting seedlings or a month after emergence of seedlings when sowing seeds directly in open ground | Root, dissolved fertilizers | Mullein infusion in a ratio of 1:10 + potassium sulfate (10 g per bucket of solution) | After feeding, the plant is watered with clean water to prevent burns of leaves and petioles. |
| 3 weeks after the first | Root, dry fertilizers | Ammonium nitrate (10 g) + superphosphate (30 g) + potassium sulfate (20 g) per 1 sq. meter | Fertilizers are embedded shallowly in the ground in the root zone using a hoe |
| 3 weeks after the second | Similar to the second | Recommended for poor soils | |
At the stage of increasing leaf and stem mass, celery needs increased nitrogen fertilizing Bleaching petioles
The main feature of caring for petiole celery is the procedure for bleaching the petioles. As a result of its implementation, the shoots become not only lighter, but also much tastier, the bitterness disappears from them. This work needs to be done 2-3 weeks before harvesting. Whitening can be done in various ways:
The leaf plates in both the first and second cases must remain free.
Owners of garden plots often avoid growing stalked celery precisely because high-quality petioles can only be obtained after a bleaching procedure, which for many is complex and difficult to perform. Recently, self-bleaching varieties of this crop have appeared on the seed market - Zolotoy, Malachite, Tango, which we described above. It should be taken into account that in order to achieve the self-bleaching effect, celery bushes of the indicated varieties should grow at a distance of no more than 25 cm from each other.
Video: how to properly grow petiole celery
Growing celery at home
Like many other herbs, petiole celery can be grown at home on a windowsill or balcony. The simplest and most easily accessible way is to obtain petioles and greens from celery stalks. In this case, the planting material will be celery stalks, which you purchased in a store or grew on your site. Celery shoots are attached to a stalk, which is usually not used for food. It should be fresh, elastic, without stains, mechanical damage and traces of rot. The stalk is cut at the base to a height of approximately 3–4 cm. 
Before planting, the celery stalk is inspected for any characteristic damage.
The cut stalk needs to be germinated. To do this, place it in a container with water at room temperature, immersing the bottom of the stalk about 0.5 cm in water. To speed up germination, you can add a few drops of any root formation stimulator to the water. The container is placed in a bright place, but not in direct sunlight. The water is changed daily. 
Celery stalk produces roots and new greens in 40–50% of cases
In about a week, young greenery will appear from the old dried cuttings. This is a signal that the plant is ready to be transplanted into the ground. The soil is prepared in the same way as for growing seedlings. A regular flower pot can serve as a planting container. Planting a sprouted stalk is carried out as follows:
In order to organize proper and competent care for a planted plant, it is necessary to carry out basic caring activities in a timely manner:
- Water the plant regularly but moderately, avoiding stagnation of moisture. This is one of the important conditions for the growth of succulent petioles;
- the top layer of soil must be periodically loosened to ensure air access to the roots of the plant;
- in late autumn and winter it is necessary to organize additional lighting. To do this, you can use fluorescent lamps or special phytolamps;
- Every 20 days, celery is fed with available fertilizers: a complex of minerals, an infusion of wood ash.
In about a month, you will be able to harvest the first harvest of vitamin-rich petioles and green leaves, which will be an excellent addition to your winter diet. The petioles will most likely not be as large as when grown in open ground, but they will have enough juiciness and usefulness.
Diseases and pests characteristic of petiole celery
There is an opinion that celery is a crop that is rarely affected by disease. If you do not comply with basic agrotechnical requirements and ignore preventive measures, then the plant’s immunity will be sharply reduced, and this will lead to the plant’s defenselessness against attacks by aggressive microorganisms. To ensure that celery does not get sick and is resistant to pathogens, it is necessary to pay due attention to basic preventive measures, which include the following:
- proper preparation and mandatory disinfection of seeds, since many pathogens are transmitted through planting material;
- strict adherence to crop rotation. Celery can be returned to its old place no earlier than after three years;
- timely removal and destruction of plant residues;
- regular removal of weeds not only in the celery bed, but also in the surrounding area, since pathogens of a number of diseases thrive on weeds and easily migrate to cultivated plants;
- timely liming of acidic soil;
- mandatory application of phosphorus and potassium fertilizers to the site;
- avoiding dense plantings;
- destruction of diseased plants.
Compliance with these measures is especially important when growing celery greens, since the use of chemicals is undesirable; their use is resorted to only in cases of mass infection and severe development of the disease.
Table: diseases of petiole celery
| Name of the disease | Signs |
| Cercospora | The appearance of irregular or round spots on the leaves. Over time, they acquire a purple tint. The affected parts of the plant dry out. |
| Septoria |
|
| Powdery mildew | White powdery coating on the above-ground parts of the plant, rotting of leaves and stems |
| Fomoz |
|
| White coating on vegetable tissues, which leads to softening, browning and rotting | |
| Rust on leaves | Formation of red-brown pads on the underside of the leaf blade. The leaves turn yellow and dry out, the petioles lose their presentation |
Photo gallery: symptoms of celery diseases
Rust appears as red-brown spots with an orange border on the leaves of the plant. Septoria, also called celery leaf spot or late leaf burn, is an extremely harmful disease that often manifests itself in fairly large areas. 
Plants with cercospora blight develop poorly, their leaves turn yellow and dry out. White rot causes significant losses of celery and the death of testes during the growing season. 
To prevent powdery mildew, it is necessary to use disinfected seeds, destroy plant residues, and carry out deep autumn plowing of the soil.
Celery pests
Petiole celery can be attacked by harmful insects. To ensure good harvest quality, it is important to identify the problem in a timely manner and develop a plan to deal with uninvited guests.
Table: celery pests
| Why is the pest dangerous? | Control measures | |
| Sucks the juice out of the plant, as a result the leaves curl, the petioles are shortened, and the plant slows down its growth. |
|
|
| Fly larvae settle in the petioles of the crop. Leaves turn red or yellow and droop in the sun | ||
| The leaves curl, wrinkle, the plant slows down, and may die. |
Photo gallery: main pests of petiole celery
Celery pests are often the main carriers of pathogens. To prevent insects from planting celery in the garden bed or next to it, you can plant nasturtium, marigolds or thyme. The smell of these plants repels many pests.
Proper harvesting guarantees long-term storage
Petiole celery can be stored for quite a long time, provided that appropriate conditions are provided and the petioles are collected correctly. When harvesting, you need to pay attention to the following nuances:
- the petiole variety of celery is more sensitive to temperature drops, so it is better to harvest in September-October, before frost sets in;
- It is not recommended to keep the plant in the garden for longer than specified in the recommendations for growing this variety. Otherwise, the petioles will become coarser and become fibrous;
- cleaning is carried out carefully, avoiding mechanical damage. It is in injured areas that root crops will rot and deteriorate;
- leaves must be cut off immediately after digging up the root crop;
- For root vegetables intended for long-term storage, you can leave the roots and then dig them into damp sand in the cellar.
- The harvested crop must be thoroughly dried and only then stored.
The harvested crop must be thoroughly dried and only then stored How to properly store celery
If celery stalks are planned to be eaten or processed in the near future, then they are carefully wrapped in cling film and sent to the bottom shelf of the refrigerator. For longer storage, gardeners use various methods:
Video: harvesting and storing petiole celery
Celery is a very healthy vegetable. And it doesn’t matter whether you grow petiole, root or leaf celery on your plot. The main thing is that these plants will bring you real benefits. After all, they were raised with care and love!
Growing petiole celery is a very complex process that requires constant attention from the gardener. The main thing is to carefully follow all the technology for growing seedlings and their further planting in open ground.
Petiole celery - growing from seeds
It is important to remember that you should not be late for planting this crop. The later the planted grains sprout, the later the seedlings will be planted, which is why the celery cuttings will be very thin. Because of this, they will not be able to increase their volume before night frosts, since the ripening period of this plant varies from 3 to 5 months. As a result, the culture will die.
Seeds should be sown for seedlings at the end of February and maximum until the middle of the first spring month. It all depends on the variety and region. For example, in warm areas, work can be carried out in February, in the northern regions - in mid-March.
It is important to remember that the seeds contain a large amount of essential oils, which is why they germinate rather slowly and unevenly. To speed up this process, before planting the grains need to be soaked in warm water (temperature about +50 degrees). In this case, the water, as soon as it cools down to room temperature, needs to be changed to new one. After completing the procedure 2-4 times, place the seeds in cool water for a couple of hours.
You can also increase germination by germinating the seeds - there are two options:
- Place a damp cloth at the bottom of a container (for example, a glass) and spread the grains on top in a thin layer. We cover everything on top with film to create a suitable microclimate. Choose a warm place for germinating seeds - at least +25 degrees, and ventilate frequently, remembering to wet the fabric so that it does not dry out.
- You need to pour wet sawdust mixed with sand into a shallow container. Seeds are scattered on top. The plantings are covered with film or glass, the container is placed in a warm place and ventilated regularly.
The soil for planting seeds should be loose and nutritious - the soil mixture is poured into boxes, grooves about 50 mm deep are made in the soil, and there should be a distance of about 4 cm between the grooves. Carefully lay out the germinated seeds on the bottom of the groove and take root a little to the soil.
It is not necessary to sprinkle soil on top. The main thing is to act as carefully as possible so as not to damage the young shoots.
Tip: to make it more convenient to arrange the seeds, use a match: wet the end of it, which will make it easier for the grains to stick to the “head”. This will make the process much easier, and you can also protect the sprouts from breaking off.
The soil with seeds must always be moist, so do not forget to keep an eye on it. Until the first seedlings appear, cover the planting boxes with film or glass. But as soon as you notice the first sprouts, you need to remove the cover and move the container with the future celery to a cooler place (temperature around +15 degrees). Due to such conditions, the plants will be strong and will not stretch.
When 4 true leaves appear, you need to pick the seedlings. It is advisable to plant the seedlings in separate containers, but if you do not have this opportunity, plant the seedlings in a large box, maintaining a distance of about 4 cm between the seedlings. Do not forget to water the seedlings regularly, but you need to make drainage holes in the container so that the remaining water can escape.
10 days before planting petiole celery in open ground, you need to start hardening off the seedlings by taking containers with seedlings outside.
Planting petiole celery in open ground
Plants are planted in the garden around mid-May. Moreover, the bed needs to be prepared in about two weeks: remove all weeds along with the root system, add rotted manure, carefully dig and level.
On the day of planting, it is worth preparing shallow furrows - about 15 cm deep, and a distance of 30 cm should be maintained between them. Before carrying out work, be sure to water the soil with water, which will make the transplanting procedure much easier. If it is difficult to get seedlings with a lump of earth, carefully run a thin knife between the walls of the cup and the ground.
Planting should be carried out deeper than the seedlings were in the containers, but remember that when planting, the “growth point” should not be buried. There should be a distance of about 15 cm between each bush in the furrow.
Some gardeners prefer such dense plantings, but they plant this way to protect the plant stem from direct sunlight - this increases the nutritional value and taste of celery. But the leaves should get more sun, because the process of photosynthesis takes place through them.
It is good if you plant plants near the cabbage, as this will prevent the appearance of a pest such as cabbage whites.
Rules for caring for crops to obtain a harvest
Until the celery has grown normally, it is imperative to remove weeds from the garden, because in the first month the crop grows very slowly, which is why the weeds will simply “choke out” the plantings. After thickening the stems, hilling is carried out, however, if the plantings are very thick, then try not to take soil from these beds, because this can lead to damage to the plantings.
It is best to cover the base of the stems using compost or turf soil. Hilling will help maintain the white color of the stem. Before carrying out work, be sure to remove any petioles that have not yet matured. The remaining ones must be carefully tied so that they do not get damaged when filling the soil.
Also remember about regular watering. The main thing is that the soil is not dry, but it is also important not to let the soil at the base get wet. Problems in this case cannot be avoided.
For example, if the soil is excessively dry, the plant stem will undergo serious changes:
- The stem will become less elastic and juicy.
- The plant will become more bitter.
- The stem will become wavy.
- An arrow-peduncle will appear.
If the soil is too wet, the plant will begin to rot, increasing the risk of fungal diseases.
Feeding is also important for celery:
- For the first time, work is carried out a couple of weeks after planting. To do this, you need to use a solution of mullein (in a ratio of 1:10) or bird droppings (1:20).
- The second time feeding is carried out after another three weeks, using complex mineral supplements. Try not to use nitrogen fertilizers, as they will cause the stem to crack.
At the end of July, it is necessary to protect the crop from greening, for which the stems are wrapped in thick paper, for example, wallpaper or craft paper. The main thing is that there are no inscriptions on the paper. You can also use high-density agrofibre so that the sun's rays do not penetrate, but air can pass through.
The protection cannot be removed until the harvest, but during the season leaves can be selectively plucked from each bush for use as food. The petioles can already be collected at the end of summer, breaking off the largest ones, but no more than five pieces from each bush.
The main harvest begins in early autumn. First, you need to remove the largest bushes from the garden, leaving the smaller ones until they ripen and are harvested in October.
The dug up bushes should be stored in the basement, with the root part carefully buried in the sand. In this state they can be stored without loss of quality for more than two months. But when growing stem celery, its excess can be frozen - after defrosting, simply stew it according to the chosen recipe, and you can eat it!
Trench growing method and its features
If there is enough space on the plot, you can choose the trench method of growing petiole celery from seeds. Here everything is done in stages.
First you need to make a trench about 30 cm deep and about 25 cm wide, maintaining a free distance of about 70 cm between the trenches (for maximum ease of caring for plants). When digging trenches, place the soil next to the north side - this will serve as protection from the wind for the plants.
Pour a mixture of soil and humus into the bottom. We plant the plants in the center, maintaining about 20 cm between the bushes. For the first few weeks, care will be the same as with the above plantings, however, after the stems thicken, the trench needs to be filled up.
The soil should be taken from an already made mound and the bushes should be filled up to the leaves. Hilling is carried out 2-4 times until all the soil from the mound is used up.
In the fall, you can start harvesting celery, the main thing is to act very carefully, trying not to harm the stems. By growing using this method, you will get a white, juicy stem without any signs of bitterness. In addition, the maintenance process is greatly simplified, since there is no need to waste time wrapping the stem in paper.
By the way, the stems of ordinary varieties of petiole celery require bleaching, otherwise they cannot be used for food. But today breeders have been able to develop varieties that do not require such work - they will be juicy and sweet without any time investment. True, despite the beneficial advantages, such varieties also have disadvantages:
- Celery is afraid of light frosts.
- Root vegetables do not last long.
Harvest immediately, no need to wait until cold weather sets in. If the weather forecast predicts a sharp drop in temperature in mid-October, you should harvest all the celery at once, even if the plants have not yet reached their full volume.
If we talk about self-bleaching plant varieties, they do not last long - no more than two weeks in the refrigerator.
Conclusion
To grow petiole celery, you must adhere to strict rules for caring for the crop, since it is a very capricious plant. If you do not have the opportunity to pay due attention to the crop, you should pay attention to self-bleaching varieties.
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The popularity of the plant of the umbrella family is constantly increasing. Aromatic celery, known not only for its pleasant taste, but also for its many beneficial properties, is increasingly appearing in suburban areas. It refers to spicy plants whose aromatic oils enhance the taste of food. It is not only used for cooking, but also canned or dried.
Main varieties of celery:
- sheet– cultivated for its lushly growing fragrant greenery, which contains a colossal percentage of essential oils;
- petiolate– grown for its thick and long petioles, used mainly for salads;
- root– valuable round root vegetable used for preparing various dishes.
Important conditions for growing celery seedlings
To get a good harvest, you need to worry about the quality of the soil for the plant in advance. The site chosen in the fall is dug up and saturated with humus. In the spring, the bed is loosened and dug up again, evenly distributing fertilizers and saturating the soil with oxygen.
Varieties of early crops can be sown directly into the ground in spring, while late crops are best grown by seedlings. One of the important conditions for a good harvest is high-quality fresh seeds. In order to sow celery for seedlings, all selected seeds are placed in warm water and kept there for a day. Next, they are planted to a depth of 1 cm in the soil.
Technology for growing leaf celery
The leafy species is able to withstand relatively cold temperatures, so experienced gardeners plant it in the soil in early spring. But a more productive result can be obtained by sowing celery seedlings in early March.
After soaking and deepening into the soil, the seeds are sprinkled with peat and the temperature is maintained at about 20°C. Watering in the first days is done from a spray bottle, evenly moistening the soil.
After the sprouts appear, the temperature must be lowered by 2-3 degrees to obtain stable seedlings. When the first true leaves appear on the seedlings, make a pick, pinching the root. This will promote the development of a good root system.
In order for growing celery seedlings to have good results, it is necessary to monitor the light and temperature conditions, hardening the plants. At the end of April, greens can be planted in the ground.
Proper care of leaf celery seedlings
In order for the seedlings to take root well, they are transferred to the garden bed without breaking the lump under the roots, and watered well. In this case, you need to make sure that the growth point is above the soil, and the distance between the seedlings is at least a quarter of a meter. Then everything is simple: the soil is periodically loosened, preventing the appearance of weeds, and watered well. In July - August, leaf celery will already produce a harvest.
Technology for growing celery root
This species is grown only by seedlings. Celery is sowed for seedlings in February. The secret to good germination is seed stratification. They do it as follows:
- high-quality seeds are distributed on damp gauze;
- kept in a room for 5 to 6 days;
- put in the refrigerator for 10 days;
- Only then are they sown in the soil.
Effective care of celery root seedlings
Plants are planted when two true leaves appear. When picking, take special care, trying not to disturb the root. Otherwise, instead of a round, valuable root crop, you will end up with a branched system of roots unsuitable for food. However, you don’t have to pick root celery; the seedlings will succeed in any case. But it may be less hardy. After 2 months, strengthened and rooted greens can be planted in the ground. The growth point is not deepened.
Young celery root seedlings like moderate watering and periodic fertilization. One of the secrets to obtaining a formed, rounded celery root is to remove the top layer of soil around it and remove small lateral roots. Another secret is to lower the leaves to the ground at the final stage of growth. This is how the fruit grows larger and faster. Tubers can be harvested in October.
Features of growing petiole celery
Agricultural technology and care for celery seedlings of this species are no different from others. But the growing process has a number of nuances. The plant loves high-quality watering and loosening of the soil. However, stagnation of water in the garden bed is unacceptable - this will lead to plant diseases. To prevent the soil from drying out, you can mulch it. Fertilizer can be applied every 2 weeks. It is better to choose organic fertilizers for this, for example, nettle infusion.
To obtain bleached petioles without bitterness, the plants are hilled a couple of weeks before harvesting. At the same time, the amount of essential oils in the stems decreases slightly, making them more palatable.
By observing simple conditions for sowing and growing plants, at the end of the summer season you can get a good harvest of aromatic and healthy celery.
Video of sowing root celery for seedlings
Growing petiole celery with excellent qualities is not a very simple matter, and caring for it has its own characteristics. Due to the fact that celery seeds take a long time to germinate and the stem slowly increases in volume,... You need to take care of the plant regularly, without violating the technology - only then will the stem turn out juicy, crispy and without a bitter aftertaste.
Growing celery seedlings
You can’t be late when it comes to growing celery seedlings. The later the seeds sprout, the later the seedlings are planted in open ground, the thinner the celery cuttings will be. They will not have time to increase their volume before the autumn frosts, because the ripening period of celery is long - from 90 to 150 days, depending on the variety. Sowing seeds for seedlings is carried out from late February to mid-March. In warm regions, the best sowing time is February, in colder regions - March.
Due to the high content of essential oils, the seeds germinate slowly and unevenly. You can speed up germination if, before sowing, soak them in very warm water, the temperature of which is +55-60°C. The water is changed several times after it has cooled to room temperature. After the last soaking, the seeds are washed in cool water.
You can increase germination if you germinate the seeds. There are two ways to do this.
- Place a damp cloth on the bottom of the container. The seeds are laid out in a thin layer. To create the desired microclimate, the container is covered with glass or cling film. The place for germination should be warm, +25°C. Ventilate regularly. The fabric should be wetted frequently and should not be allowed to dry out.
- Well-moistened sawdust mixed with clean sand is poured into a shallow container. The seeds are scattered on the surface of the sawdust. Then, just as in the first method, cover with glass, place in a warm place, periodically ventilate and moisten.
The soil for seedlings is chosen to be nutritious and loose. It is poured into boxes and grooves are made 0.5 cm deep at a distance of 3 cm from each other. The seeds are placed at the bottom of the furrows, lightly pressing them into the soil. There is no need to sprinkle earth on top. Sprouted seeds must be sown carefully, trying not to damage the sprout.
It is convenient to use a match to place sprouted seeds into seed boxes. Its end is wetted and the seeds easily stick to the wet part. This makes sowing easier and prevents sprouts from breaking off.
The soil must always be moistened, this must be monitored. Until the first leaves appear, the seedlings should be covered with cling film. After they appear, the film is removed, and after a week the box is transferred to a cool, bright place. The optimal air temperature is +15°C. In such conditions, celery seedlings will grow strong and will not stretch out.
When 3-4 true leaves appear, the seedlings dive. It is best to plant them in separate containers, and if this is not possible, then in a larger box at a distance of 4x4 cm from each other. Watering the seedlings is abundant and regular, but excess water should be drained through the drainage holes.
A week before planting in open ground, the seedlings begin to be hardened by taking them outside into the sun.
You can plant petiole celery in a garden bed in the open ground as early as mid-May. The bed is prepared in 10 days: all weeds with roots are removed, well-rotted manure is added, dug up and leveled.
On the day of planting, prepare grooves 10 cm deep at a distance of 30-40 cm from one another. The soil in containers with celery should be moist, this will prevent it from crumbling when transplanting. If the soil does not lag well behind the walls of the cups, you can run a thin knife between the walls and the lump of earth. Planting should be done a little deeper than the seedlings were in the container, but the growing point of the leaves should not be buried. In one row there should be a distance of 15 cm between plants.
Celery is planted densely so that as little light as possible reaches the base of the stem - this increases its nutritional value and improves its taste. Leaves, on the contrary, should be in bright light, through which the process of photosynthesis will occur.
It is good to plant stem celery, it prevents the appearance of such a pest as cabbage whites. Celery is also a desirable neighbor for tomatoes.
Care
Until the celery has grown, it is necessary to prevent the growth of weeds. The first month, celery grows slowly, and weeds can choke it. After the stems begin to thicken, it is necessary to carry out hilling. If the plantings are thickened, then the soil for hilling does not need to be taken from the same beds, so as not to damage the plants growing nearby. It is better to cover the base of the stem with turf soil or compost. When hilling, the white color of the stem is preserved.
Before hilling, small petioles that no longer have time to gain weight are removed. The remaining ones are tied at the level of the leaves so that they do not break when covered with soil.
Watering must be constantly monitored. The soil should not dry out, but the base of the celery should not become soaked.
Excessive dryness of the soil will cause the stem to change its characteristics:
- will cease to be juicy and elastic,
- will crack,
- will become bitter;
- the stem structure will be fibrous;
- the plant will release a peduncle and begin to set seeds.
If there is excess moisture, the stems may begin to rot, which also increases the likelihood of fungal diseases.
Feeding is important for celery. The first time they are fed two to three weeks after planting. Prepare a solution of mullein (1 part fertilizer to 10 parts water) or bird droppings (1 part fertilizer to 20 parts water). The second time is fed after three weeks with complex mineral fertilizer, but the percentage of nitrogen in it should be minimal. If there is an excess of nitrogen in the soil, the petioles can crack in the same way as with a lack of watering.
At the end of July, to protect the celery from greening, the stems should be wrapped in thick paper. You can use corrugated cardboard, paper wallpaper, craft paper. It is undesirable for the paper to have inscriptions made with printing ink. For wrapping, you can use agrofibre of both white and black color of maximum density. The main thing is that air passes through the material used for wrapping.
The entire stem must be protected from sunlight up to the point where the foliage begins to grow. The paper is wrapped so that there is a small gap, but at the same time it does not dangle from the wind. The protection is not removed until the harvest.
During the season, leaves can be selectively collected from each plant for use as food. They can be eaten fresh or dried for the winter.
If necessary, petioles can be collected at the end of summer. At the same time, the largest ones are broken off, but no more than 5 pieces from one plant. The main harvest begins in September. The largest plants are dug up first, the rest can ripen until October.
If dug up celery is placed in the basement, with the roots buried in damp sand, it can be stored for up to two months. Excess stalk celery can be frozen. After defrosting, they are stewed, baked and used for first courses.
Trench method of growing celery
If there is enough space on the plot, then celery can be grown using the trench method. Cultivation is carried out in stages.
- Trenches are prepared 30 cm deep and 20 cm wide. There should be a distance of at least 70 cm between the trenches for convenience.
- When digging, all the soil is folded into a mound along the trench, on the north side. It will serve as protection from the cold in spring and early summer.
- A mixture of earth and humus is poured onto the bottom.
- Planting of seedlings is carried out in the center of the trench, at a distance of 15-20 cm between plants.
- At first, care is carried out in the same way as during normal planting.
- After the stem begins to thicken, the first filling of the trench is carried out. The soil is taken from the mound and the celery is covered with it up to the foliage.
- Hilling is carried out several times until all the soil dug out of the trench is used up.
- In autumn, harvesting is carried out carefully so as not to damage the stems.
When grown in this way, the stem turns out to be white, juicy, and there is no bitterness. In addition, there is no need to wrap the stems with this method.
Self-bleaching varieties
The stems of ordinary varieties require bleaching, otherwise they become unfit for food. Currently, varieties have been bred that do not require such care - they are juicy, crispy without much labor.
Despite this advantage, these varieties have a significant disadvantage:
- they are afraid of even light frosts;
- have a short shelf life.
Harvesting must be done immediately, without waiting for the onset of cold weather. If the weather forecast promises a drop in temperature already at the beginning of September, then all the celery should be harvested, even if the stems of not all plants have yet grown to the required volume. Collected stalks of self-bleaching celery are not stored for long. If they are wrapped in cling film and placed in the refrigerator, the maximum shelf life is two weeks.
Conclusion
To grow high-quality petiole celery, you need constant care. Feeding and watering should be carried out regularly, and without bleaching the petioles lose quality and taste. If it is impossible to spend a lot of time caring for celery, you can grow self-bleaching varieties. Due to its short shelf life, there is no need to plant a lot of it. It is enough to plant a few bushes so that you can use them within two to three weeks.
Preface
Growing petiole celery for seedlings is a simple undertaking. The grown crop is widely used in cooking - celery can be eaten boiled, stewed or fried. Let's learn about the intricacies of sowing, picking and caring for the crop.
The climate of some regions of our country does not allow for growing and harvesting a rich harvest of celery. It is for this reason that our gardeners grow this crop for seedlings. The growing season of the plant requires approximately 80–140 days, therefore, when sowing seeds in open soil, they will not have time to ripen before the onset of frost, even in milder climates. In addition, by sowing and growing celery seedlings, you can safely count on a harvest in the same year that you started growing the crop, which provides an additional incentive for the propagation of this vegetable.
Petiole celery after harvesting
The most popular varieties of crops are considered to be Golden Feather, Golden Path and Yutu. Gardeners often choose other types of petiole celery, but not all of them have the same high yield as the first three. Celery seed material differs in that it germinates rather poorly. This must be taken into account before planting the crop. Dry seeds can sprout no earlier than 20–30 days after sowing. In addition, the germination percentage will be very modest. In this regard, the seeds will need to be processed before planting. To do this, pour the seeds into a container with hot water and leave for 3 days. Change the water regularly - at least three times a day.
A large amount of essential oils inside the seeds prevents their rapid germination. Hot water will help normalize the amount of oils. When the next dose of liquid cools down, you can see a large number of greasy spots on its surface. Before changing the water, the seeds must be removed from the container and rinsed under running water. After 3 days of soaking, remove the seeds and place them on a paper towel. Place the paper on a plate and place it together with the seeds in a plastic bag. Such an improvised greenhouse should be kept in a dark, warm place, regularly ventilated.
You can germinate seed in another way. To do this, take a glass container and fill it with wet sawdust. Cover the top of the sawdust with sand mixed with seeds. Place the container in a warm but well-lit place. For seeds to germinate, you need to constantly maintain stable air humidity, sprinkling the room with water from time to time.
Working with soil - the “right” soil for active growth
Celery seeds are sowed in the first ten days of March. To successfully propagate a crop for seedlings, it is necessary to properly prepare the soil before planting. You can buy ready-made soil mixture. However, many gardeners prefer to do it themselves. To do this you need to use:
- 3 parts peat;
- 1 part wood ash;
- 1 part humus;
- 1 part fine sand.
Preparing the soil for planting seedlings
All this is thoroughly mixed and poured into a container for planting. Several wide boxes are suitable as containers. Fill them with soil and water the soil with warm water. Then make shallow grooves and spread the seeds evenly in them. Do this very carefully, as the sprouted roots are quite weak and thin.
Celery seeds are very small, so after planting they only need to be lightly sprinkled with a small layer of soil. Often, gardeners use a different method of germinating vegetables. Instead of watering, a layer of snow is poured onto the ground, and seeds are placed on top of it. With the gradual melting of the snow, the seeds will sink into the ground to a shallow depth.
Caring for young shoots will not take much of your time and effort. In order for the seedlings to actively develop, you will need to regularly water the soil. However, be careful not to over-hydrate. It is best to spray the soil with a spray bottle. An important factor is temperature. There is no need to heat the air in the room with seedlings to more than 20–22 °C. Seedlings must be constantly illuminated. Apply the first fertilizing 3 weeks after planting the seeds. To do this, use nitrogen or phosphorus.
Young seedlings of petiole celery
After another week, the seedlings can be planted into separate pots. This is done only when the seedlings reach 2-3 true leaves. When transplanting, deepen the stems into the soil to half their height. 15 days after picking, we advise you to reapply fertilizer. This time use organic fertilizers - peat, bird droppings or mullein. A week after the second feeding, begin preparing the seedlings for planting in open ground. To do this, you need to take the pots of celery outside and leave them there for 60–90 minutes. We do not recommend hardening seedlings at temperatures below 15 °C.
In order for the seedlings of cultivated petiole celery to enter the next stage of their development in time, they must be transplanted into open soil in a timely manner. Do the picking no earlier than mid-May. It is very important to follow the landing scheme correctly. The distance between the rows should not be less than 35 cm, and a distance of 20 cm between the bushes is enough. Before and after planting, you need to water the soil generously. After replanting, you will need to organize proper care of the bed - promptly remove weeds, water and loosen the soil. Otherwise, your garden bed is in danger of meeting with.
Seedlings ready for planting
Apply the first fertilizing 15 days after transplanting into open soil. The second time, fertilizers are applied during the active growth of green shoots.
The third time feeding is added 2 months after picking. As a top dressing, you can use organic and mineral fertilizers, alternating them with each other. In order to stimulate the growth of bushes, many gardeners perform the procedure of pinching the lateral roots of seedlings. To do this, carefully fold the soil on the sides of the bush and cut off the side roots. This must be done at least 2-3 times before harvesting. In this case, the soil needs to be mulched. Plants need to be watered abundantly, but not too often. If the weather forecast promises frosts, then it is better to cover the bed with film.
Insect control is as important a factor in growing seedlings as watering and fertilizing. We do not recommend relying on chance; take the real threat seriously. The borscht or celery fly is considered to be one of the most dangerous pests of this crop. The emerging larvae begin to eat the leaf tissue, making brown tunnels in them. This causes the petioles to acquire a bitter taste, and their yield is significantly reduced. To combat flies, we recommend regularly mulching the soil around the bushes and spraying the plants with fungicides. It is best to remove infected bushes from the garden immediately.
Celery pest - carrot fly
Another dangerous pest is the carrot fly. After emergence, it lays white eggs on the inside of the leaves. The larvae can eat both roots and other parts of plants. You can fight this insect in different ways. To do this, regularly treat the bushes with an ash solution or weakly concentrated solutions of chemicals. To combat bean aphids, we recommend treating infected bushes with tinctures and decoctions from the tops of tomatoes, dandelions, potatoes or yarrow. Using a water tincture of orange peels will be effective. The product must be kept for at least 4 days.
An attack by carrot psyllid will be no less dangerous for the garden bed. This pest prefers to overwinter on coniferous trees and begins feeding from mid-spring to late autumn. The main delicacy for this is the juice of celery leaves.
As a result, the bushes become dry and lifeless. To combat psyllids, we advise you to remove weeds, apply fertilizer and loosen the soil in a timely manner. In the first ten days of August, it is necessary to treat the soil with a special product. To prepare, take equal amounts of sand, dry mustard and tobacco dust each and mix the ingredients. You need to sprinkle the mixture between the rows 3 times with breaks a week.