Growing seedlings of coniferous trees. Secrets of planting coniferous trees. Soil for coniferous plants

Many gardeners plant coniferous trees on their plots. And this is not surprising. After all, such plants are a real decoration. They all year round remain green. IN winter time you can appreciate all the splendor coniferous plantings. It is worth noting that such plants are often used by specialists to create magnificent coniferous trees- resistance to diseases and pests, as well as ease of care.

These plants are not capricious. But you still need to plant them correctly. In this case, it is worth considering several nuances - you need to find a suitable place, provide minimal care and, of course, learn how to properly fertilize the soil. So, planting coniferous trees in the spring: how to do everything correctly?

Choosing a place

At the site it usually begins with a choice suitable place. Most of these plants thrive only in the shade, where the soil is moister. Most of all, pine and larch like the sun. But yews, hemlocks and spruce will grow well in the shade.

Common Mistake

If the question arises about how to plant a Christmas tree, thuja, pine or larch, many answer that it is enough to simply dig a hole, lower the roots of the seedling into it and cover it with earth. That's all true, of course. But some people wonder why the plant died after a few months? The answer is simple. The coniferous tree was planted incorrectly. The most amazing thing is that these plants retain beautiful appearance even in difficult conditions for them.

In order for the planting of coniferous trees in the spring to be successful, the soil should be prepared. It is best to choose a place where there is soil with a pH of 5 - 6.5. In addition, the soil must be properly improved. Yes, 20 centimeters of ordinary black soil is not enough for such plants. Tree seedlings are not cheap, so it is better not to skimp on soil fertilization. Regular watering and timely application of fertilizers also play an important role. Plants become depleted and die very quickly.

Improving the soil

Coniferous trees require a special approach. If the main soil layer is infertile sand, then the soil should be improved to a depth of 60 - 100 centimeters, as well as a meter around the seedling. Otherwise the tree will die. To prevent the layer of fertile soil from being washed out, you can put a layer of clay underneath it or lay geotextiles.

If coniferous trees are planted in groups in the spring, then the soil throughout the entire bed should be improved. It will be easier than digging under each seedling. For a hedge, you should also dig a trench and lay a layer of fertile soil.

If the soil is more clayey, then it needs to be improved with peaty black soil to a depth of 0.4 - 0.6 meters.

When to plant

The time of planting coniferous trees also has special meaning. For example, container seedlings, which are sold in many retail outlets, can be planted in open ground during the entire growing season. In other words, until the ground freezes. They are compact and do not get damaged much.

Seedlings of gymnosperm trees are usually planted in the spring, when the buds have not yet begun to bloom. The most better time for planting - the first ten days of May. They can also be planted in the fall - from mid-August to the end of September. The most important thing is that the young trees have time to take root before the dormant period begins.

You need to water correctly

When the planting of coniferous trees in the spring is completed, a period of special care for the plants begins. If all the rules for improving the soil and planting are followed, then there is no need to apply fertilizers in the first year. At this time it is required good watering. Such trees do not like prolonged drought. In order for moisture to linger for a long time, you need to lay a layer of mulch around the trunk with a thickness of 5 to 7 centimeters. This indicator depends on the size of the tree.

Which fertilizer to choose

Planting coniferous trees is not so simple. Recommendations from experts will help you avoid unnecessary problems. You can apply fertilizer next year, when the snow melts and the growing season begins. You should only use fertilizers that are intended for coniferous plants. You can purchase fertilizer in a specialized store. Fertilizer should be applied in accordance with manufacturers' recommendations.

Typically used for these purposes mineral compounds in granules that quickly dissolve in water. This fertilizer contains all the necessary micro- and macroelements. It is worth noting that such mineral supplements dissolve slowly and last from 3 to 6 months.

How to feed

Coniferous trees are only half the story. It is important to know how to properly water and feed plants. If the fertilizers are in granules, then you can simply scatter them around the trunk of the seedling, and then simply embed it all into the soil. That's all. There is another option. You can use dissolving fertilizer. IN in this case fertilizing occurs through the needles during watering. The concentration of such fertilizer should be no more than 0.5 - 1%. Before applying fertilizer, the coniferous tree must be watered.

The plant should be fertilized the first time in April or early May, the second time - at the end of June or early July. To feed coniferous plants, you should not use slurry or fresh manure. This will have a bad effect on the condition of the seedlings.

Pruning and crown formation

To improve branching, as well as to limit their growth, it is necessary to carry out formative pruning. It is worth noting, this method will allow you to give the crown the desired shape. Pruning must be done at the appropriate time. For example, thuja hedges are usually trimmed at the end of May or at the beginning of June, and in August, if necessary, the procedure is repeated.

Yew trees should be pruned from April to June.

Finally

Now you know how to plant a Christmas tree, pine, larch, thuja and other coniferous trees. Proper care, regular watering and timely application mineral fertilizers will allow you to grow beautiful and neat plants that will decorate your area with their greenery in winter and summer. Give the required form crown can be done during formative pruning. In order for coniferous trees to retain their charm, it is worth thinking about disease prevention. This is the most best method combat not only plant diseases, but also some pests, for example, aphids. These insects threaten mainly young seedlings and shoots. Pests simply suck the sap out of the tree. As a result, the plant weakens and dies.

The duration of growing seedlings depends on their intended purpose. For forest crops, spruce seedlings are grown, as a rule, for 2–3 years (first school). If it is necessary to obtain large seedlings (geisters), they are transplanted to the second school (2+2+2).

There are 3 types of schools used in production: simple, compacted and combined .

Simple school designed for growing decorative deciduous seedlings tree species. Seedlings and rooted cuttings are planted in it. Accommodation seats– 0.8–10.4–0.5 m. 3–4-year-old seedlings with a placement of 11, 1.51.5 m are planted in the second school, and 6–8-year-old seedlings with a placement of 32 m are planted in the third school.

Densified schools(row, strip, combined) are intended for growing seedlings coniferous species for silvicultural purposes. The plant placement schemes used here are unified with the sowing separation schemes. When placed in rows, the distances between the rows are the same and in most cases are equal to 0.4 m, the planting step is 0.1–0.2 m. The placement of seedlings in a strip pattern is often 3-row with a distance between rows of 0.4–0.4– 0.7 (0.8) m, 4-row – 0.3–0.3–0.3–0.6 (0.7) m, or 5-row – 0.2–0.2–0 .2–0.2–0.7(0.8) m. Planting step 0.1–0.2 m, yield of seedlings per 1 ha – 250–300 thousand pieces.

IN combined In the schemes, three or five rows of spruce seedlings with a growing period of two to three years are alternated with one row of deciduous or coniferous trees with a growing period of 6–12 years. In a row, spruce seedlings are placed every 0.1–0.2 m, and species with a long growing period - after 0.7–1 m. As a result of repeated digging of low-growing planting material from the inter-scene spaces of ornamental seedlings hardwood Due to double-sided cutting of the surface roots with a digging bracket, a good compact root system is formed.

Total crop rotation fields are determined by the duration of growing seedlings in a school plus one field (pure fallow) or two (green manure and pure fallow).

In the school department, unlike sowing, plowing of the soil is carried out to a greater depth: 30–35 cm in the first school, 40–50 cm in the second, 50–60 cm in the third school, using PLN-4-35, PLN plows -3-35 or planting PPN-40, PPN-50. The formation is rotated to the depth of the cultivated layer with additional loosening of the underlying horizons with subsoilers. Before the main plowing, lime (if necessary) and organo-mineral fertilizers are applied to ensure their placement throughout the cultivated layer. After fallowing in the spring, pre-planting plowing is carried out without turning the layer to the depth of planting seedlings or saplings or tilling the soil with a KRG-36 cultivator-ripper, then harrowing with a toothed harrow and a trail harrow.

In the north and northwest of the taiga zone, planting seedlings and cuttings with an open root system is best done in the spring. Less desirable, but possible, is planting a school of conifers from mid-August to September 10, with the expectation of rooting of mature plants before frost. When using planting material with a root system closed into the substrate good results give summer terms landings. In plants intended for planting, diseased and damaged roots, as well as roots longer than 25–30 cm, are pruned. After pruning, the roots are dipped in a mash consisting of water, clay, humus (or peat) and a small admixture of fresh cow manure. Instead of manure, you can add heteroauxin or another growth stimulating substance to the mash.

When growing seedlings for accelerated forest growing, it is imperative to sort the seedlings, selecting for school the 25% of the best in development and the largest individuals with well-formed buds and an extensive root system.

Planting of seedlings and cuttings is carried out using SSHP-5/3, EMI-5 and SSHN-3 planters, and seedlings for the second school are planted using the MPS-1 machine. After mechanized planting, the plants are straightened. On small areas planting is done manually under Kolesov's sword, shovel or stake. Proper planting is characterized by a tight fit of the soil to the roots, the absence of voids and bends of the roots. With this type of planting, effort is required to pull the plant out of the soil. On loam, the root collar of the seedling should be at the level of the soil surface; on light soils, it should be deepened by 1–2 cm. For rooted cuttings, the root collar should always be buried by 1–2 cm. It is very important to maintain the straightness of the planting rows. At the end of summer or autumn, it is recommended to hill up the planted plants, which will protect them from squeezing. In the fall they spud and annual seedlings. In the spring, during the first care, the seedlings are unplanted.

In our practice, good results were obtained by growing large 6-year-old (2+2+2) spruce geysters in a temporary nursery near a forestry area. In early spring, 4-year-old spruce seedlings were planted in a loosened cushion of topsoil and well-decomposed peat-fecal compost and watered twice. This allowed us to minimize delivery costs large quantities seedlings to the planting site and at the same time, when digging, preserve part of the peat-mineral substrate on their roots. Excellent survival rate and rapid growth of spruce were achieved from the first years after planting in forest crops.

Loosening the soil and killing weeds. Loosening of the soil begins immediately after planting, since during planting the row spacing is greatly compacted. For loosening, use a rotating hoe MVN-2.8. During growing season cultivators KRSSh-2.8, KRN-2.8 or KFP-1.5 loosen the soil three to five times. The depth of loosening is 7–16 cm. Simultaneously with loosening, weeds are destroyed. When the area is heavily overgrown with weeds, herbicides are used for this purpose.

Watering the first time is carried out immediately after planting the seedlings. The depth of soil wetting is 25–30 cm. Watering increases the survival rate and improves the growth of seedlings. The frequency of watering in the first summer is 5–6 times, in the second and third summer – 3–5 times. If necessary, watering is combined with root feeding of seedlings.

Feeding carried out every year by spraying plants with a weak fertilizer solution (0.5–1.5%) or introducing it into the soil with a KRSSh-2.8 cultivator-plant feeder. The timing and norms of fertilizer application when growing coniferous seedlings are indicated in table. 3.

(see table 3 in Moodle)

Protection of seedlings from diseases and pests includes preventive and protective-destructive measures. Basis preventive measures is high level agricultural technology. In the nursery chemicals added in the form of aqueous solutions and suspensions. It is especially important to follow the chemical treatment schedule when protecting pine seedlings from Schutte and oak seedlings from powdery mildew, deciduous trees - from damage by aphids.

Digging up seedlings It is produced in the spring before the buds swell, and in the fall - after the formation of the apical bud and the beginning of leaf fall. Shrub seedlings and small seedlings of tree species are dug up using an NBC-1.2 bracket or a VM-1.25 machine. Larger seedlings are dug up using a VPN-2 plow or a VMKM-0.6 machine. Before digging, you need to sharpen the cutting part of the digging tool and be sure to adjust the depth of its stroke so as not to damage or weaken the roots of the largest seedlings. Seedlings selected from the soil are sorted and stored either in a damp trench or in bales of polyethylene film on a glacier, or in a snow pile. You can't dig in planting material in advance and transport it without prior watering in the back of the car and without shelter from the sun and wind, since the roots of the seedlings dry out very quickly. It is best to dip the roots of the seedlings in the mash at the nursery and place them in wooden boxes, the height of which allows them to be placed on top of each other without damaging the plants. In these same boxes, planting material can be delivered directly to the planting site. At long-distance transport Each row of seedlings is layered with wet moss. Small seedlings are laid in layers with their roots facing each other, large ones are placed on the bottom of the machine. The seedlings are laid very tightly so that they are not blown by the wind and do not move along the way. The top of the body must be covered with a tarpaulin and reinforced with ropes (this must be taken care of in advance). A tag must be attached to the bales indicating the sender, recipient, breed, variety and number of seedlings. As a rule, large quantities of planting material should be accompanied by responsible person the recipient's or sender's enterprise.

Recommendations for planting coniferous trees are a relevant topic for many summer residents, because today conifers can be found on many summer cottages, whereas previously they were only exotic. But, as difficult as it may be to guess, their planting and replanting is accompanied by many requirements that must be met in order for the conifer to take root and not die.

What mistakes can there be when planting conifers?

The most common mistakes made when planting such plants are:

1. Damage to an earthen ball at the root of a coniferous crop.
2. Inadequacy of the planting hole.
3. Filling the root collar with soil mixture.
4. Unaccounted for features of a particular variety.

All these mistakes lead to the death of the coniferous plant. To avoid this, the planting process should be carried out taking these aspects into account.

Damage to an earthen clod on the root of a coniferous crop

When planting, it is necessary that the earthen lump does not shake, fly around, or crumble. That is, it is important not to “lose” it. Otherwise, the roots may quickly dry out and then die. And the conifer will definitely not survive! To preserve the coma - no matter whether the tree is transplanted from soil or a container - you should first water the plant well the day before. Thus, the soil at the root will be crumpled.

After the plant is dug up or removed from the container, the root and lump must be quickly placed in burlap (or something similar) and tied securely. When fixing, twine, ropes, wire, etc. are used.

The release of the root from the packaging occurs only after the coniferous plant is placed in the prepared hole! If this is done before placing it in the pit, the lump may crumble. Many gardeners even recommend leaving the packaging material on the root - the burlap, one way or another, will rot in the ground. The root should only be freed from hard fixing materials (metal, synthetic cords).

Disproportionality of the landing pit

The second common mistake is the size of the planting hole not matching the plant being planted. The planting hole should be larger than the earthen ball of bushes, both from the sides and in height. When placing a plant in a hole, there should be about 5 cm between its walls and the root ball. If this is not observed, the plant will be cramped, the roots will be pinched, and it may die.

Filling the free space occurs after installing the shrub in the hole with specially prepared soil suitable for the specific species of coniferous plant. Of course, you can fill the hole with soil that was removed from it before planting, but in this case the crop will take root much worse.

Backfilling the root collar with soil mixture

When replanting a coniferous plant, it is important not to cover its root neck with soil. If this does happen, then it must be freed from the soil by removing the excess.

But there are cases when cervical closure is inevitable, in which case forced air drainage is performed. Small trenches are dug near the coniferous crop and lined with pebbles. These trenches communicate with the outside space through tubes through which root system comes freely required air.

Unaccounted for features of a certain variety

This is perhaps the most important mistake - to ignore the conditions necessary for good growth and development of conifers. Each breed requires different individual characteristics plantings that would be nice to create if possible. Therefore, we will separately dwell on the requirements for planting some breeds.

• Spruce. For these conifers, you should choose a shady place, with no nearby groundwater. Soil composition for the planting pit: turf (2 parts), peat (1 part), sand (1 part) and leaf soil (2 parts). The depth of the hole for spruce reaches 50-70 cm. Also, a drainage system should be installed for them, the layer of which should not be less than 15 cm. Compaction of the soil is strictly prohibited.
• Cypress. The choice of planting site largely depends on the color of the plant. For variegated colors it is better to choose sunny side, and for the rest - a darkened place. Soil composition for filling the planting hole: humus, sand, leaf soil, peat (in the ratio 3-2-2-1). The depth of the hole for planting cypress trees should be at least 70 cm, and sometimes even deeper. They also arrange drainage using sand, pebbles, and brick fragments.
• Juniper. As for this type of conifer, they need to be planted on open spaces, with access to the sun. The soil for backfilling is composed of peat, sand and turf. Their number may vary, depending on the specific variety. For example, Siberian variety prefers a predominance of sand, and Virginia loves clay soils. The structure of the drainage system and the depth of the hole are the same as for spruce.
• Fir. This conifer grows well only in shaded areas. The preferred age of the plant when transplanting is from 5 to 10 years. For the soil, use a mixture: leaf soil (can be humus) - 3 parts, clay 2 parts, sand mixed with peat (1 part each). It is noteworthy that fir is not as demanding on drainage as others, but if the soils where it is planted are heavy, then it is better to arrange it with a depth of 20 cm. The planting hole for the tree is required to be small - about half a meter.
• Larch. Prefers open places with good sun access. The only exception is Japanese variety, which loves semi-shaded areas. For soil, mix leaf soil (3 parts) with peat (2 parts) and sand (1 part). The root drainage system is equipped only on heavy soils. The hole is the same as that of the spruce. When transplanting larch, it is important to observe the timing - planting must be done in the spring, before the buds begin to bloom. As for age, it is preferable to do this when the tree reaches 5 years old.
• Pines. Planted on open area. To fill the planting hole use sod land, where sand or clay is added. The hole itself is dug to a depth of 1 meter, and drainage is provided (recommended for heavy soils). The best seedlings pine trees are not yet 5 years old.
• Thuja. Thuja loves both partial shade and sun. Soil mixture: leaf/turf soil (2 parts), sand and peat (1 part each). Drainage system always arranged - its height should be 20 cm.
• Yew. This conifer prefers only darkened planting sites. Composition of the soil for backfilling: turf (3 parts), sand (2 parts), peat (2 parts). The depth of the pit is 60-70 cm, drainage is required.

Cozy composition of coniferous plants: planting scheme with names of species

You can combine conifers with shrubs, perennials and grasses; here is a small scheme for planting conifers:

1. Hosta fortunei – Hosta fortunei;
2. Black pine – Pinus mugo ‘Mops’;
3. Cossack juniper - Juniperus sabina ‘Variegata’;
4. Blue molinia – Molinia coerulea;
5. Western thuja - Thuja occidentalis ‘Hoseri’;
6. Norway spruce – Picea abies;
7. Western thuja - Thuja occidentalis ‘Globosa’;
8. Western thuja - Thuja occidentalis ‘Brabant’;
9. Western thuja – Thuja occidentalis ‘Golden Globe’;
10. Scaly juniper - Juniperus sguamata ‘Blue Star’.

In any case, after the coniferous plant is planted, the soil is mulched. This is what will protect it from drying out and weeds. For mulch they use, among other things, pine needles, she happens to be good guide oxygen to the roots. Also, after some time, a mycelium appears in it, which contributes to the comfortable growth of coniferous plants. Mulching must be done every spring, and if the soils are dry, then every autumn. Here, in fact, are all the main recommendations for planting coniferous trees.

Coniferous plants make the garden elegant at any time of the year, create a feeling of celebration on rainy weeks, and on winter days they remind you that spring will definitely come. Growing conifers is not difficult if you initially plant them correctly, prepare the right soil composition and choose a place in the garden.

Planting conifers in spring

The best time to plant conifers in the Moscow region is spring. In spring, survival rate is better, daylight hours increase, and there is no midday heat yet. To plant conifers, I choose the time when the ground has thawed by about two shovels, this is approximately the end of the second - beginning of the third decade of May.

The sooner to land conifers in spring, the better and faster they will take root.

Planting conifers in summer

It is also possible to plant coniferous plants in the summer: in the first half of June, if the weather is not hot. When planting later, when summer has finally come into its own, there is a risk that the conifers will be very sick and will not take root.

The fact is that the first time after planting, the roots of conifers cannot provide the crown with moisture, and it begins to burn. What happens is approximately the same as in the spring, when the roots are still in the ice, and the sun's rays dry out the crown, deprived of moisture.

Planting conifers in autumn and winter

It is also possible autumn planting conifers, it is advisable to have time to do this before mid-September, otherwise in the conditions of the Moscow region the plants may not have time to take root.

From late autumn and winter planting plants, which is practiced by some companies, it is better to refuse. It is unacceptable for conifers; in winter the rooting process does not occur, and in spring the crown burns from the sun and the plants die.

Place for planting conifers

When choosing a place for planting conifers, it is necessary to take into account lighting conditions, the composition and condition of the soil on the site, and the groundwater level so that the seedlings do not get wet in the spring.

Conifers with a green crown are preferable to plant in the sun. They will feel good in partial shade.

Plants with yellow, blue and variegated needles need light partial shade. Fir is placed mainly in the shade - it is extremely susceptible to spring burning until the end of May.

Soil for planting conifers

The soil for conifers is preferably loose, with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction.

• Coniferous crops are good plants on peat bogs.
• If you plan to plant pine trees, regardless of the variety and size, I try to collect a couple of bags of earth in the pine forest, collect upper layer, and mix it with the soil when planting.

For decorative conifers that will decorate the garden for many years, it is better to choose specialized soil mixtures, for example, “Magic Bed” nutritious soil for coniferous crops from the Buysky Chemical Plant. Prepared on the basis of high-moor peat, such soil contains all the necessary supplies of nutrients. As a result, lush green trees - thujas, junipers, firs and pines - will take root better, will get sick less, show enviable resistance to the vagaries of the weather, and will delight you with healthy shiny needles.
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Preparing conifers for planting

Before planting coniferous plants in the garden, for better rooting, I soak them in a solution of sodium humate or HB-101. I lower the plant into a bucket of solution or into a tank, depending on the volume of the pot, and leave it for half a day. During this time, the earthen ball is saturated with moisture, and the plants receive a supply of water for the rooting period.

How to plant conifers correctly

Before planting, I take the seedling out of the container and, using a hoe or by hand, tear apart the earthen lump to straighten the roots wrapped around it. This will allow the plant to take root faster.

In low places, planting with drainage of at least 20–30 cm is required. Sand, expanded clay, crushed stone and cans can be placed at the bottom of the planting hole.

When planting, I add humus or well-rotted compost, 1 tbsp. l. long-acting fertilizer “AVA” and the same amount of Kemira, I add a bucket of sand per plant. After placing it in the planting hole, I water the seedling with the solution in which it was soaked, and when the liquid is absorbed, I fill it with the prepared soil mixture.

As soon as the seedling is planted, I make a roll of soil, retreating 0.5 m from the crown, or wrap it with a finished tape - a border, so that later it will be more convenient to water and mulch. I also place pegs around the plant and cover it with a light cloth to protect the crown of the not yet rooted seedling from the sun. I don’t use non-fabric - it allows the sun to pass through perfectly.

Conifer planting scheme

As for the planting scheme, this is a rather insidious moment when placing conifers in the garden. Even dwarf conifers manage to grow beyond their stated size.

When planning plantings with dwarf conifers, you need to leave at least 1.5-2 m between plants. The crowns will grow and close faster than it seems, and soon the issue of replanting will have to be decided.

When, after 6-7 years, the crowns of conifers creep on top of each other, the question of replanting arises; by this time the plants are already large, and the replanting process is not always painless for them. It is no longer possible to leave them without replanting; branches growing on top of each other create an unsightly picture, and the view of the conifer garden becomes untidy.

If in the first years the voids between conifers are confusing, they can be filled with dwarf carnations, bells, spring bulbs, various ground covers, and simply decorated interesting stones and other decorative items. Conifers grow quickly and soon nothing will remind you of the voids among them.

By force of will, you should maintain the distance and when planting rooted cuttings of conifers, adult plants will need at least 2-3 m between each other. Free space You can also cover it with perennials or flowering annuals.

Caring for conifers after planting

After planting, conifers require special attention- exactly this important time in their lives. IN hot weather The seedlings are watered every other day, I moisten the plants with a watering can with a strainer, water not only at the roots, but also at the crown to create additional moisture. After watering, I check to see if the roots have been washed away by water.

When planting adult seedlings, I use a watering can per plant every two days, especially if planting occurred on hot days.

I remove sun protection from conifers two weeks after planting, choosing cloudy weather for this. In the evenings on hot days, be sure to moisten the crown of conifers with water, use a garden hose with a sprayer or a sprayer.

In the first year of planting, I do not feed the plants; in the second year, I only mulch them with compost in the spring and at the end of August I water them with a superphosphate solution for high-quality ripening of the growth.

In the first winter after planting, I, without exception. I put a frame of small blocks around the plant in the form of a hut and wrap it in burlap, securing it on top with ropes. Such a shelter will also save you from frost. sun rays will protect. I mulch the tree trunk circle with earth.

Planting conifers with seeds

They plant conifers and seeds, do this in March or before winter, in October.

For spring sowing of conifers, I prepare the soil in the fall, taking one part of compost, sand and garden land, I sift it, pour it into a plastic bag and leave it in the garden to freeze. At the end of November, when I come to visit the shelters, I also take the prepared soil.

In March, I take out a low plastic box, put it on a pallet, fill it with soil, sprinkle a 2-3 cm layer of sand on top, spill it with a solution of phytosporin and lay out coniferous seeds, sprinkle it with 1 cm of sand, and then with a small layer of earth and moisten it with a spray bottle. I place the seeds 5 cm apart, then thin them out and leave the strongest ones at a distance of 10 cm.

I insert the tray with the box into the bag and put it in a warm place until shoots appear. I try not to keep seedlings in apartment conditions for a long time; I expose them to glass balcony. If you don't allow sub-zero temperatures, the plants will grow strong and strong. I place a box of seedlings in the garden as soon as the threat of frost has passed, towards the end of May. I prepare a hole in the garden bed according to the size and height of the box and carefully move the box from the pallet into it. In the conditions of the Moscow region, relocate mature conifer seedlings to permanent places maybe for the third spring. There is no need to delay replanting, otherwise the conifers will get sick.

It is possible to sow conifers before winter; to do this, I dig a box at the level of the bed with nutritious soil, do this at the end of September, and cover it with a piece of plywood, for example. After the onset of small daytime frosts, in the Moscow region they usually occur in the second half of October, I remove the plywood and sow conifers, sprinkle with pre-prepared soil. In the spring, I inspect the seedlings and thin them out, because they will have to grow in the box for two years before being moved to their designated place in the garden.

Conifers in the photo

Conifers originate mainly from North America, Japan, China and Russia (Siberia). The harsh climate determines the biological resistance of coniferous trees to both reduced and high temperatures, as well as a high need for soil and air moisture, but not waterlogging. Species with a superficial root system are spruce, thuja, and juniper. They also do not tolerate soil compaction around trunks.

The pit for planting and caring for coniferous trees in the garden should correspond in size to the root system or earthen coma.

After planting, abundant watering is required, which is carried out even on rainy days. It is needed to allow the soil to settle around the roots. After watering trunk circle, which should correspond in size to the diameter of the crown, mulch with one of the following materials: sawdust, peat, sand or just dry soil.

Large coniferous plants aged 10-12 years can be replanted in two periods - at the end of September and during October and March. Planting material should be with a lump of earth, packed in burlap. The brought planting material must be placed in water for two days until the coma is completely soaked. Then the lump hardens after 1-2 days, and only then the plant is planted.

Large planting pits prepared in advance. If the soil is bad, they are covered with fertile soil. After planting, watering is necessary every 2-3 days, and spraying is necessary every day. New roots form in about 1.5-2 months.