Growing garden primroses through seeds. Primrose from seeds - cultivation and tips
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Garden primrose is one of the spring primroses, which are not so easy to grow. Failure often befalls even experienced gardeners.
But the loss of some seedlings does not mean that it is impossible to plant and grow primrose. The process requires endurance, knowledge and patience.
How to choose primrose seeds for planting
For sowing, it is better to use fresh, just collected seeds. Even if proper storage by spring, germination rate will drop by 40%. What can we say about store-bought seeds, the storage conditions of which are unknown.
Important! The older the primrose seeds, the longer they will take to germinate. Often the seeds simply do not germinate at all.
Seeds should be collected together with the capsules to prevent self-dispersal. Next, the seeds ripen in a cool place. Temperatures of about 20 C are already detrimental to planting material.
If it is not possible to collect your own seeds, then before purchasing, pay attention to the expiration dates indicated on the package.
Rules for germinating primrose seeds
Don't despair if you don't have your own seeds. The success of cultivation depends 90% not only on the seeds, but also on the agricultural technology of cultivation. Therefore, purchase seeds shortly before planting primroses, it is best late autumn or in early spring.
Proceed with planting immediately. When planting in summer, you will have to tinker a little, regularly water the bed and mulch it with humus. In this case, sowing is carried out directly into the soil, superficially. As soon as the shoots appear and the second pair of leaves forms, the primroses need to be picked. Plants grown in this way must be covered with a thick layer of mulch from dry leaves for the winter.
It is better to sow primrose in boxes before winter, but not before a stable frosty temperature has been established and the soil has frozen sufficiently. In this case, the seeds are also placed superficially, but covered with dry leaves, and then covered with film. In this state they are left in partial shade until spring. The shelter is removed as soon as the snow melts.
Advice! Pre-winter sowing Spread thickly; some of the seeds may freeze or get wet.
As soon as the shoots appear, the primroses are watered regularly. Even short-term drought has a detrimental effect on plants.
In the spring, primrose seedlings are planted in late February or early March. The seeds are not buried in the soil, the container is covered with film and put in a cold place where the temperature does not drop below -10 C. Stratification is carried out over a month. After this, the containers are transferred to warm room with a temperature of +16 C and good lighting. After some time, the first shoots should appear. The seedlings are carefully watered and the greenhouse is ventilated.
How to grow high-quality primrose seedlings from seeds
Primrose grows and develops quite slowly, so be patient. Seedlings dive as soon as the second or third pair of leaves appears on them. In this case, the tiny plant is picked up with tweezers and transferred to a pot. Primroses need to be replanted several times as they grow. It takes two years to grow the plants before planting them in the garden.
Any container for growing seedlings is suitable, as long as it has enough drainage holes and a good drainage layer. The soil for planting primrose from seeds is chosen to be fertile, loose, but rough in structure. Seedling soil or self-prepared soil from the following components is suitable:
Sod soil- 1 part;
Sand – 1 part;
Leaf humus - 2 parts.
Before planting, the soil is not sifted; in the container, it is well watered so that it becomes compacted and there are no grooves or holes.
The quality of seedlings is affected pre-planting treatment seeds If the seeds were bought in a store, then there is no need to carry out such processing. Manufacturers pre-etch them before packaging.
Self-collected seeds from a summer cottage must be disinfected in order to avoid the appearance of fungal diseases that will destroy the primrose plantings. To do this, the seeds are soaked in a solution of potassium permanganate or a suitable fungicide for 20 minutes, after which they are washed in clean water and dry.
Caring for primrose seedlings
the main task gardener - careful watering. Do not allow the soil to become waterlogged or dry. The soil should always be kept moderately moist.
Don’t rush to open the greenhouse with seedlings too early; they develop so slowly that they won’t be buried in the shelter for a long time. And here high humidity seedlings need air.
When watering, water should not fall on tender sprouts; carefully water the soil using a syringe, syringe or other available materials.
Before planting primrose in the garden, it does not need to be further hardened. Only the largest bushes are taken outside during the week.
How to plant primrose in the garden (photo)
On permanent place primroses are replanted in the spring, when the threat of frost has passed or early autumn. In summer, plants can be grown in a container.
Primrose is planted on open place with moderate lighting, under trees or shrubs. Direct Sun rays unacceptable. The soil on the site should be loose and nutritious. But this depends more on the variety of primrose. Be sure to pay attention to this.
During transplantation, try not to injure the roots; transfer the seedlings to the holes along with a lump of earth using the transshipment method. The distance between plants is important. Primrose needs enough space to develop, so up to 30 cm is left between large bushes, and small ones are planted at a distance of 15 cm.
After transplanting, primroses are mulched and watered well. On normal mode their cultivation is gradually transferred. As a rule, mature plants are watered only during periods of drought.
Primroses planted from seeds bloom only after 1.5 years; some varieties will bloom only in the third year of cultivation. This is worth considering.
How to propagate primroses
Garden primroses can be propagated in several ways:
Dividing the bush;
Leaf cuttings.
By dividing the bush, adult primrose bushes that have grown well are propagated. At 4-5 years they are dug up, the roots are washed under water and separated sharp knife to plots. Primroses are planted in a new place in mid-August or early September. Once primroses are planted, they are easy to propagate and still provide a lot of planting material.
Weak plants can be saved by propagating them leaf cuttings. The leaf with the heel is cut from the bush and rooted in a moist substrate at a temperature of 16-18 C away from sunlight. When young shoots appear, the plants are dug up and placed in a container where they overwinter. In spring, the plants are transferred to the garden.
What to do with primrose after flowering
When the plant stops blooming, the soil around it is carefully loosened, weeds are removed and left until autumn. At this time, the primrose grows leaves, which need to be preserved until winter. They will serve as natural shelter.
In autumn, leaves cannot be trimmed, as the flowers will become smaller and the plant will degenerate. Old overwintered leaves are removed only in spring.
Young primroses in regions with harsh winters are additionally covered with dry foliage, a layer of at least 10 cm. Where the climate allows, there is sufficient snow cover, but with the arrival of spring, the ice crust is removed from the plant.
As you can see, growing primroses is not easy, but even if at least a few plants survive, this is already a reward for the work done.
Primrose- one of the most popular and favorite plants among our flower growers. In nature, these flowers can be found almost throughout the Eurasian continent in temperate latitudes, in humid areas of the highlands.
But, like all plants, primrose has the ability to adapt to other growing conditions, which is why it has been successfully cultivated by gardeners around the world, including Russia, for centuries.
Description of primrose
Primrose primrose- one of the most diverse and widespread early flowering plants. There are up to 550 species in total. Most often it is a perennial, herbaceous or semi-shrub crop, but both annual and biennial primroses are also found.
The underground part of the primrose is a rhizome with roots. The leaves are always collected in a small root rosette, but they can take a variety of shapes - lanceolate, oblong-oval, oval.
Given the species diversity of primroses, the leaves may have uneven surface, or a dense, leathery texture. The leaves can live either only one season, dying off after the first frost, or overwinter under snow cover and come to life for the new season.
Primrose flowers have a tubular structure with bipartite or solid petals.
Primrose color have the most variety, there are single-colored, two-colored and tricolored plants. Terry primroses have been bred by breeders. Often the flowers have an eye. A peduncle without leaves produces one or more flowers collected in spherical, umbrella-shaped or pyramidal inflorescences.
Primrose gives fruits in the form of seed boxes. The seeds in the boxes are small, dark brown, cylindrical or spherical in shape. Flowering period is spring. There are species that bloom in summer.
Useful properties of primrose
Even the ancient Greeks valued medicinal properties primrose (primrose), and this is not surprising. The root system of this plant is included in the composition of diaphoretic, diuretic and expectorant drugs that help to start the processes of secretion of sputum from the respiratory tract.
Decoctions of primrose roots are used in folk medicine for insomnia, decoctions of the leaves are used for vitamin deficiency, neurosis, headaches, tinctures for the treatment of gout, rheumatism, skin rashes.
The agricultural technology for growing this crop is not that complicated. In this article we want to tell you about how to grow primrose in open ground and in the garden. We will not dwell on the description of this family of early flowering ones; you can read about the varieties and types of primroses in.
Growing primrose in open ground
What is the best place to plant primroses?
First of all, you should decide place for planting primroses. Regardless of the variety and place of their natural growth, in our natural conditions professional flower growers recommend shaded areas of the garden for primroses deciduous trees(or pears) or shrubs, flower beds and hillocks that are not exposed to the afternoon rays of the sun, damp coastal zones reservoirs.
Moisture and soil requirements for planting primroses
Hydration
The soil for primroses should be loose and moisture-absorbing. In other words, primroses should receive a large amount of moisture, but the liquid should not stagnate and over-moisten the soil.
IN spring period, in April-May, hydration should be the most intense, because in nature, when the snow melts in the mountains, primroses literally drown in water. Often in our conditions there is little rain at this time, so take care that the primroses do not dry out, otherwise the plants will weaken and lose their decorative qualities.
Helpful advice: Varieties such as Siebold's primrose are best grown by submerging them. root system 1-2 cm into the water.
The soil
Regardless of where the ancestors of your primrose grew before, on rocky slopes and mountain crevices with poor soils, or along mountain rivers, or among alpine meadows with rich fertile soils, in garden culture primroses should be provided with loose, well-manured soils - light and clayey. Such soil retains nutrients, is well saturated with moisture and drains fairly quickly.
If your area is heavy clay soil, this drawback is easily eliminated by adding 1 sq.m. landing area:
- buckets of sand,
- crushed sphagnum moss,
- vermiculite,
- 2 kg or rotted silage.
The easiest way to do this is to remove 20 cm of the top layer of soil on the site and replace it with a suitable nutrient mixture. A year later, in the fall, it will be sufficient to add only mineral potassium-phosphorus fertilizers to such soil.
Lack of light soils in low content nutrients. Such soils are enriched with:
- 5 kg of old humus,
- 10 kg of leaf (compost) soil,
- 5 kg of old peat,
- 20 g of phosphorus-potassium and 15 g of nitrogen fertilizers
per 1 sq.m of landing area.
Primrose care
These plants do not require special care. The main thing is to ensure required amount moisture and sufficient air flow to the primrose root system. To maintain proper nutrient levels, be sure to regularly get rid of weeds.
Feeding primroses
During the growing season primroses should be fed three times per season potassium-phosphorus fertilizer and regularly organic fertilizer.
- First deposit mineral fertilizers done in early spring.
- The second time - after 14-21 days.
- The third time was in July.
All this time, do not forget to add slurry to the primrose bushes (mullein, horse or sheep manure), and in the fall you should enrich the place where you grow primroses with a 3 cm layer of nutrient substrate to a depth of 15-20 cm.
To preserve moisture, ensure aeration of the root system and prevent abundant germination of weeds, primrose plantings are mulched with a 5cm layer of gravel. In addition, it will serve as an excellent decorative addition to primrose plantings.
Helpful advice: To extend the flowering period of primroses, regularly pick off dried flowers.
Like all plants, primroses tend to grow. After 3-4 years, they can grow so large that they will be forced to crowd each other and bloom poorly. Therefore, in order to provide primroses with normal development conditions and nutritional properties of the substrate, the plant bushes should be divided and planted. It will be better if you not only plant the overgrown bushes, but also move the entire flower garden with primroses to another place.
Perennial plantings of primroses need protective cover on winter period. First of all, it is important to preserve the foliage rosette of primrose until autumn - this is the plant’s natural protection from winter cold.
Helpful advice: The rosette of such varieties of primroses as Japanese, Florinda and Fine-toothed is not retained in full, only 3-4 leaves are left, this significantly reduces the likelihood of primrose contracting rot of the root collar and leaves, and also allows the plant to form larger and bright flowers to spring.
Mulching for the winter is easiest done at the end of autumn with a 10 cm layer of tree leaves.
Diseases and pests of primroses
Most often primroses are susceptible the following diseases:
- rust,
- rot of the ground part,
- bacterial leaf spot,
- powdery mildew,
- anthracnose,
- jaundice,
- viruses and cucumber mosaic,
From pests Damage often occurs:
- nematodes,
- weevil,
- fleas,
- beetles, etc.
The most big trouble primrose brings fungus Ramularia cercosporella . This is evidenced by the appearance in late spring of first pale and then brown spots with a yellow border on the leaves of the plant.
When sporulation of mushrooms begins, and this usually happens in the second half of July, the spots become covered with a whitish coating. This leads to wilting and drying of the leaves, cessation of flowering, and weakening of the plant.
To prevent such situations, regularly inspect the primrose bushes. If you find affected leaves, remove and destroy them. Twice a year, immediately after flowering and in early spring treat the primrose plantings with the following compounds:
- 0.2% topsin, 2% basezol, 1.5% zineb,
- 0.5% copper oxychloride, 1% Bordeaux mixture.
In autumn, primroses should be sprayed with 1% nitrafen.
Interesting to know. Primrose Julia, Common, Spring and Tall primroses are most susceptible to this disease. Primula Ushkovaya, Primula Pink, and Pallas were found to be more resistant to damage by Ramularia cercosporella. Japanese, Florinda and Fine-toothed primroses do not suffer from this fungus.
Reproduction of primroses
These plants can be propagated as vegetative way (dividing the bush, cuttings), and using seeds.
Growing primroses from seeds
Requirements for seeds and substrate
Primroses produce a ripe seed capsule in the second half of summer. But when collecting seed material should take into account the fact that Primrose seeds lose their viability very easily. That's why for sowing, take only freshly harvested planting material .
In principle, you can sow primrose at any time of the year, but in the middle zone we recommend that you do this from the end of February. Try to find the most suitable day for this using. This way you will achieve better germination of seedlings and their normal development.
If you are planning to sow primroses on your summer cottage V open ground, then wait until the snow melts and prepare boxes or containers for sowing, digging them into the ground. This way you will reduce the likelihood of losing seedlings. At the same time, you will have to constantly ensure that the soil in the containers does not dry out, is not washed away by showers, and is not damaged by various pets.
You can plant primroses in a similar way summer period immediately after the seed pods ripen, but then to ensure normal seed germination during periods of summer drought, you will need large quantity planting material. Some gardeners sow primroses at the end of autumn. But Primrose gives the highest percentage of germination during seed propagation in the spring.
Containers for sowing
The most suitable for this are mini-greenhouses or containers with drainage holes at the bottom, with plastic, transparent lids. But you can use any suitable container, which allows you to set up a mini-greenhouse for seeds. You can even take an ordinary plastic food container with drainage holes drilled in the bottom.
Substrate for sowing
For most varieties of primrose, it is best to take a substrate, consisting of:
- 1/4 turf land,
- 1/2 leaf humus,
- 1/4 sand.
You can use ready-made flower soil, which is sold in stores. Just add 20-50% vermiculite and perlite or sphagnum moss if these components are not part of the mixture.
Fill the containers with the prepared substrate. It is possible, in the case of small Auricula seeds, to make a thin upper layer from perlite. The soil should be slightly moistened with a spray bottle.
Sowing primrose seeds
These plants are sown on the soil surface at the rate of 5 grains per 1 sq. cm of sown area. This can be done using a napkin on which the seeds are poured, or using a toothpick, having first moistened its tip with water. The seeds need to be lightly pressed into the ground.
What is cold start and why is it needed?
In nature, many species of wild primroses grow at the base of glaciers. Therefore, in order to produce friendly shoots, the seeds of such varieties of primroses as Pink, Florinda, Japanese, Siebold, Vysokaya and Opuschenaya need cold start. This means that immediately after sowing, the containers are placed in the freezer (up to -10 degrees) or covered with snow for 3-4 weeks.
Primroses of Siebold and Vysoky after cold start should be germinated in dark room until sprouts appear. We do not recommend amateur flower growers to engage in such varieties of primroses; leave this to experienced breeders. But hybrid varieties do not need such a procedure.
Germination of seedlings
Before sprouts appear, direct sunlight does not pose any particular problems for greenhouses. But as soon as you notice the first shoots, be sure to take care of shading primroses and regularly moistening the soil using a spray bottle or syringe without a needle. Just don’t overdo it with watering, otherwise the seedlings will start to rot very quickly!
You should also begin to gradually acclimatization of sprouts. This means that it is necessary to periodically ventilate the greenhouses, slowly increasing the time period of ventilation until the seedlings grow and 2 fully formed leaves appear on them. Then you can remove the transparent protective cover or film from the containers. During the period of intensive seedling growth, the frequency of watering is increased.
Note. In order to sprout, primroses planted in the fall will need 14-18 weeks, and seeds sown in the spring, only a month.
Diving seedlings
It is advisable to do the picking 2 or 3 times. After 3 full leaves appear on the young plants, they should be planted. It makes sense to plant crops that are too dense and earlier in order to give them all the opportunity to develop normally. In this case, it is better to do this procedure using tweezers so as not to damage the delicate, fragile plant.
Make a pick every time the seedlings grow strongly.
Seedlings can be transplanted directly into the soil of the greenhouse, or into specially prepared boxes, and small varieties plant at a distance of 15 cm from each other, the distance between large primroses is up to 30 cm. At the same time, try to ensure that there are no leaves between the leaves of neighboring primroses free space, this is unfavorable for them.
To a permanent place of growth Primroses are planted only in the second year of life in spring or autumn. Their decorative properties plants usually appear in the third year of life.
How to save seed
In case of adverse weather conditions in winter time your primroses may freeze or dry out. So that it doesn’t remain in the flower garden empty seats, you should always have a supply of fresh seeds from last year's harvest. These seeds are stored, mixed with sand, in the refrigerator or basement.
Reproduction of primroses by dividing the bush
You can start this procedure no earlier than after 3-5 years of growing primroses- early spring, or from the second half of July. Try not to plant primroses later than the first half of September, otherwise the plants that have not yet matured may freeze and lose their decorative qualities or even die.
It is important to know. Plant primroses that bloom in summer in spring.
In order to plant a plant, water it abundantly, carefully dig it up, carefully shake off the clod of earth from the roots and wash the roots in water. This will make it much more convenient for you to divide the bushes and at the same time injure the plant as little as possible.
Then the bush is divided into arbitrary parts with a knife, but it should be taken into account that the divisions must contain at least one renewal bud. The sections must be processed, then as quickly as possible, without allowing them to dry out, the cuttings must be planted in a new place. After the plants are planted in the ground, they should be watered and preferably provided with a label with the name of the variety and the date of propagation.
It will be better if you plant the divisions in such a way that there are no rosettes between the foliage free space, so the plants can protect themselves from drying out. For 2 weeks, seedlings need daily watering. In case of propagation in autumn, do not forget to carry out protective mulching for the winter.
Reproduction by cuttings
Reproduction of primroses by cuttings carried out using a technology similar to propagation by dividing a bush. But not all types of primroses can be propagated in this way.
Auricula Propagated by rooting leaf cuttings. To do this, in the fall, several leaves are separated from the rosette and planted in a greenhouse, while the cuttings should take root in 2-3 weeks. In spring, the plants are transplanted into open ground to a permanent location.
Toothed primrose easily propagated by root cuttings. The most suitable for this procedure are large plants, from which several large thick roots are separated. In order for the root to form buds, make a longitudinal cut up to one and a half cm in its upper part. After this, the cuttings should be planted in light soil 3 cm deep. Next, we proceed as described above about leaf cuttings.
You can find out here.
Primrose in garden design in photographs
border along garden path from primroses
Primrose in a flowerbed with daffodils
Flowerbed with primroses
Primroses are amazing flowers. There are varieties that begin to bloom as soon as the snow melts and the sun warms the ground a little. A small, bold flower looks very touching against the background of bare earth! To plant this miracle in the garden, you have to try, because the seeds germinate slowly, and special conditions are needed, but then the multi-colored bushes of abundantly flowering primroses will become a source of your pride. Here are several ways to grow primrose from seeds.
First, some general information:- Only fresh seeds germinate well;
- Primrose seeds should be collected at the end of July-August;
- the most terrible enemy of primroses is heat and drought;
- flowers are more comfortable in light shade;
- for growth they need moisture, but not stagnation of water, which causes their roots to rot;
- primroses grown from seeds will bloom within a year.
- Fill with fertile soil.
- Place the seeds on a slightly loosened top layer at a distance of 10-15 mm from each other.
- Lightly compact the soil and moisten it with a spray bottle. We tighten the container plastic film or close with a lid.
- We carry out seed stratification. We bury the container with the seeds in the garden bed so that its sides are flush with the ground.
- In the spring, we do not remove the container from the ground; we simply open the lid and wet the soil well.
- As soon as the seedlings reach 10 mm in height, we dive them, placing them in some shady corner of the garden.
- With the onset of autumn, we transfer the primroses to a permanent place designated for them.
- Place the seeds on gauze soaked in water. We place all this in a plastic container or jar with a lid.
- We place the dishes in a place where the temperature does not rise above +15 degrees.
- After 7 days we check to see if the seeds have hatched. If not, then put the container in the refrigerator for 14 days.
- If after 2 weeks not a single sprouted seed is found in the refrigerator, then return the dishes to a warm place for a week.
- We repeat the procedure again, and if even after this there is no result, then these seeds are either very old or poorly ripened. In any case, there is no point in bothering with them further.
- We transfer the hatched seed into moist soil, sprinkle it with a 1 mm layer of sand, and cover it with glass, i.e. a kind of microgreenhouse is being created.
- After the seedlings emerge, remove the cover from the container and place it on the windowsill. It is important to avoid direct sunlight.
- We plant seedlings in the spring, when it is not yet very hot. Primroses will bloom next year.
- We use a regular sponge that is used to wash dishes. The best one is the one with small pores and a dense substrate.
- We make slits in the sponge, the depth of which is equal to half the thickness of the foam rubber. We put seeds into these “furrows”.
- We moisten the “bed” and put it in a bag.
- Then, as usual - 7 days at 15 degrees, 14 days in the refrigerator, then according to circumstances.
It is not difficult to remove sprouted seeds from a sponge; just wet the tip of a toothpick and use this simple tool to transfer them to the ground.
And in conclusion: having chosen one of the methods of growing primrose from seeds, plant this beautiful flower in your garden. Show patience and care - and every year he will notify you of the arrival of spring.
Primrose is a very common and low-maintenance plant. Growing it from seedlings is also not difficult. The main difficulty is getting the smallest seeds to germinate at home. Not everyone can do this. And yet it is possible to do this, although it is troublesome.
Which primrose to choose for seed propagation?
First, let's decide on the seeds; the easiest way to purchase them is in a store that offers many varieties of varying degrees of terry and color. The germination of seeds is worse the older they are; two-year old ones may not germinate at all. Therefore, we make sure to check the expiration dates on the bags. For growing in the garden, bushes with large leaves and tall peduncles.
The fine-toothed, auricular, tall, orchid and candelabra primroses are very impressive. But they are unlikely to live long in the open ground of the middle zone. The most common is the common or stemless primrose, which has many different varieties. different color. There are even double flowers, such as Rosie, Rosanna, Scarlet, but they are heat-loving. But the Arctic varieties are cold-resistant and do not need shelter.
Hybrids of stemless and tall primrose are unsuitable for growing in open ground. Some foreign varieties are grown in their homeland in greenhouses, used as disposable varieties, and used to briefly decorate verandas and offices. Such bushes will not give the desired effect re-blooming and die in a snowless winter.
The information on the bags about the growing method may be unreliable, and the type of flowers may be incorrectly identified. Most often they are of hybrid origin. Seeds of species primroses are rarely found in stores, but domestic flower growers have them. It is more difficult to germinate wild plants than hybrids, but more exciting process and the result is more valuable.
In areas of central Russia, rose garden has long been growing. perennial primrose Siebold, occasionally lilac. But collectors are already growing varietal primroses of this variety with unique colors, different forms, including terry ones. They are engaged in breeding, which means they also collect the seeds of their plants and sell the surplus.
In the garden center it is better to choose hybrids of auricula, tall primrose, polyantha or Julia primrose. If the most unpretentious and beautiful specimens of plants obtained from seedlings are crossed with proven local primroses, it is possible to breed new hardy primroses of various colors.
Collection technology, methods of sowing and germination of seeds
The easiest way to collect seeds is from garden bushes. Sometimes primrose seedlings are grown from seeds in order to ensure the preservation of flowers in the garden in the event of their death. Another goal is to renew varieties of young plants or obtain a large number of flowering plants at once.
We collect at a time when the seed pods open slightly. We pick them whole and place them in a cool place to ripen. There are several terms and methods of germination:
- Seeds sown in open ground immediately after ripening have the highest germination rate, and weather most favorable. We sow superficially, and do not forget about mulching and watering. By the end of the season, tiny seedlings have already grown from them. Not all of them will survive the winter, but this is how natural selection occurs.
- Pre-winter sowing is done densely in boxes with mandatory drainage, lightly sprinkled with soil, immediately after the first frost, cover non-woven material. After the snow melts, we remove the material, making sure that the seedlings are not damaged by drought.
- When sowing at home, seeds must undergo stratification. If the quantity is small, place them on the damp surface of the soil in a container, cover with film or a lid and keep for up to five days in a warm place. After swelling, place it in the refrigerator, checking the humidity level from time to time. We transfer the sprouted sprouts to a window with a temperature of about 18 degrees. If nothing has happened in a month, we still expose the bowl to the light; some varieties need it to awaken.
- Instead of an earthen mixture, you can use a damp cloth, then placed in a bag.
- To save space in the refrigerator, we sow according to the same pattern in a sponge that is usually used to wash dishes. We make several cuts to the middle of the foam layer and place the seeds in them. Squeezing the sponge a little, moisten it and put it in the bag. We check it every two days, ventilate it at the same time, pushing the slots apart, then place the bag on the coldest shelf of the refrigerator. Separate the sprouts from the sponge with the wet tip of a toothpick. By immediately laying them out in cells with soil, we bypass the dive stage.
- Another option is to soak the seeds in a warm place for a day, then put them in the refrigerator, then on the window.
- You can also wet it peat tablets, place them in a plastic container, press several seeds onto the surface of each of them with a toothpick. Closing the lid, put everything away dark place, remembering to moisturize if necessary. After a month, we plant the seedlings in pots.
- Some gardeners simply place the seeds in the freezer for twelve hours, without stratification during germination.
Diving and planting rosettes in open ground
Place the containers with the crops in a warm place. sunny place. Remove the film or lid when most of the seedlings have shed their shell. We carry out the first dive when two or three leaves grow, while discarding non-viable seedlings. Holding the leaves with tweezers, lift the sprout and plant it in the hole made with a toothpick, deepening it down to the cotyledons. Carefully pour from a pipette or syringe without a needle.
To the ground special requirements Primrose does not, but it is better to buy mixtures from trusted manufacturers. It is advisable to add perlite to them, which prevents soil caking and provides drainage. Mixed vermiculite normalizes moisture capacity, reduces soil acidity, and helps the root system adapt and develop well. After the sprouts grow, we either pick them a second time or immediately plant them in separate pots. You can sow seeds from February to April, then at the time of planting in open ground we will get seedlings of different ages.
Starting in May, when the threat of frost has passed, we plant the bushes on the site. We grow them in partial shade so that the babies are not burned by the sun's rays. We make sure that the soil does not dry out, but is not over-moistened. In the fall, we transplant the grown rosettes to a permanent place. In the future, keep the soil around the rosettes loose and moist, removing weeds. We feed the primrose with a solution of low concentrations of fertilizers containing potassium and phosphorus, trying not to overdo it with nitrogen, so that the bushes do not grow greenery to the detriment of flowering.
Over 4-5 years, primrose grows greatly. To rejuvenate the clump, we dig it up and divide it into parts, obtaining planting material that will completely repeat the varietal characteristics of the mother bush. To protect against diseases, we carry out preventive treatment with Nitrofen solution in the fall, and in the spring - Bordeaux mixture or Fundazol.
If the primrose variety is adapted to the conditions of the site, we leave it to winter without shelter, heat-loving plants cover with spruce branches and dry cut stems. In the spring, we make sure that a crust of ice does not form on the rosettes and that there is no stagnation of water. In this case, there is a high probability of damping off the bushes.
How to grow and maintain indoor flowers?
Autumn-winter season in middle lane long and poor in paint. Help to extend the season of joy indoor flowers. Suitable for these purposes are: common primrose, Chinese or soft-leaved. However, these varieties are used as indoor annual crops. The best choice for the home - perennial primula obconica, which blooms very brightly and for a long time almost non-stop, especially abundantly in winter and spring. It is heat-loving and does not even tolerate frost, and can grow successfully at home for several years.
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This is a low bush with obverse-conical leaves on elongated petioles. At the same time, several umbrella-shaped inflorescences grow at once, which we cut off immediately after flowering, making way for the next flowers - varied, bright and elegant.
The leaves of this primrose may cause allergies in people sensitive to the primin they contain. We remove the plant higher if there are small children in the house!
To get our seeds, we carry out artificial pollination. To do this, we transfer pollen from one flower to another. When cross-pollinated, the rosettes grown may have the species characteristics of each of their parent primroses, or something completely special may be developed. To have in the apartment from autumn to spring flowering plants, we sow the collected seeds from January to summer every month. Sow in a container on the surface of the soil, lightly moisten, cover with film or glass. We keep them in a bright place at a temperature of about 18 degrees, regularly ventilate them and spray them with water.
In two weeks the seedlings will sprout; as they grow, we dive them twice. After three months, we transplant the sprouts into separate pots (we make the soil from peat, sand and humus). Six months after sowing, the bushes will bloom. look after indoor primrose not difficult:
- She needs Light room without direct sunlight and no drafts. West or north windows are best.
- The best conditions for flowering are temperatures from 12 to 16 degrees.
- Water moderately, avoiding water getting on the leaves.
- Primrose is not picky about air humidity.
- We start feeding twice a month only after the formation of buds, so that the plant does not delay flowering while growing leaves.
- We remove faded inflorescences in a timely manner, and also pinch off dry stems and leaves.
We plant the faded bush in a shaded area of the garden or balcony and return it indoors in the fall. Once a year, at the end of flowering, we transplant homemade primroses into a pot of a slightly larger diameter. At the same time, we remove damaged or rotten roots.
Forcing garden primrose for holidays
Very nice to receive flowering bush for March 8th or a birthday, and kicking it out and presenting it as a gift is doubly joyful. For accelerated development and flowering, we create the most favorable conditions for healthy adult primroses:
- In autumn, we dig up flowers and transfer them to separate small containers.
- Store in a cool, dark room with a temperature of about eight degrees.
- In order to prepare for March 8, at the end of January we move the plants to a brighter and warmer place. The temperature should not rise above 18 degrees. We begin to gradually water the soil in the pots.
- Flowering begins at the beginning of spring. To prevent diseases, we apply fungicide every month and feed regularly.
- We move the faded bush to a cool, bright place for rest and restoration. It will be possible to kick him out again only in two or three years.
Primroses are unpretentious and grateful plants. Their value lies in early lush bloom, when the other inhabitants of the garden have not even grown foliage yet. Extra-hour flowering will highlight any celebration. And in each case, the joy of contemplating this beauty more than rewards us for the efforts of its painstaking creation.
Most gardeners value primroses for their variety, brightness and large number of flowers. To grow them from seeds yourself, you need to know certain secrets and subtleties in the sowing process and further care behind the plant.
When choosing seeds, you should pay attention to the expiration date. The fresher the seeds, the greater the chance that they will sprout quickly and amicably. There are regular and hybrid varieties on sale, either a separate variety or a mixture.
February or March is chosen for sowing. However, if there is a good artificial lighting, then you can sow primrose seeds earlier. It is worth remembering that flowers grow quite quickly, so you need to be sure that there is enough space on the windowsill if it is still cold outside. For sowing, you can use any pots or containers, which will then need to be covered to create a greenhouse effect.
Also, many primrose lovers sow seeds in open ground. This can be done as soon as the snow melts. In order for the seeds to germinate faster and the sprouts to be strong, you need to sow them in a pot and cover it with earth. Then the earth will be much warmer.
If you really want to sow primroses in the summer, then this can also be done. During this period, gardeners often sow seeds that have ripened on flower stalks. IN in this case you need a lot of seeds, because in the summer heat not many of them will be able to germinate and survive. Dry soil has a detrimental effect on primrose seeds.
You can try sowing primroses in the fall so that they germinate in early spring. In this case, there is a high percentage of germination, since there is enough moisture.
Soil for sowing
For primroses, soil that is coarse in structure is suitable. You can buy a regular substrate for seedlings and add some components to it. For example, agroperlite, which will protect the plant from “suffocation”. Perlite prevents the soil from compacting and provides excellent drainage. It is also useful to add vermiculite to the soil. It will prevent a crust from forming on the surface of the soil. Vermiculite reduces the acidity of the soil and protects the plant root from temperature changes, which is especially common on the windowsill in winter.
You can prepare the soil for sowing seeds yourself.
- turf - 25%;
- sand - 25%;
- leaf soil - 50%.
After filling the container with soil, you need to level the surface of the soil so that there are no holes into which small primrose seeds can fall. And at great depth they will not be able to germinate.
Sowing seeds
To prevent the occurrence of fungal diseases, you can soak the seeds for 20 minutes in a weak solution of potassium permanganate before sowing. After this, you need to leave the seeds to dry, since it will be very difficult to sow them wet. If there are not many seeds, you can plant each seed separately using a wet toothpick. Or you can pour all the seeds onto a napkin, and then gradually pour the seeds from it onto wet soil. After this, they need to be pressed to the soil. Having covered the container, we leave it in the room at a temperature of +16 - +20 degrees.
Often, primrose lovers use cold stratification after planting seeds. However, this procedure is not necessary for all varieties. Most often, stratification is used for individual wild species primrose For purchased hybrid varieties no need for cold at all.
Until the primroses have sprouted, the containers should not be placed in direct sunlight. And on the contrary, when the shoots appear, the sun is simply necessary for the normal growth of primroses. Direct rays are acceptable as long as the seedlings are covered with a transparent cover. After opening, it is important to ensure that the sun does not shine directly on them.
Caring for young primrose shoots
It is important to carefully monitor the condition of the soil so that it does not dry out or become waterlogged. When 1 or 2 leaves appear, you can gradually remove the film from the pot or container. Great option For watering the sprouts there will be a spray bottle with a fine spray.
Primrose picking
When the seedlings have 1-2 leaves, then it’s time to pick them. To do this you need to have a toothpick and tweezers. Using a toothpick, carefully dig up the seedling and have the patient transfer it to another container. It is necessary to place primroses at a distance of 5 cm. Ideally, the picking process should be done 2 times. Thanks to the transplantation, the stem goes deeper and the roots are enriched with oxygen. You can dive the second time when the plant has 3-4 leaves.
Planting primrose seedlings in open ground
If you plant the seeds in March, then by spring there will be ready-made primrose seedlings and they can be planted directly under open sky. A daily norm of 10 degrees is suitable for them. But before planting, you can leave them outside in a container for several days.
For primroses, an area where the sun's rays do not often reach is suitable. It is important that there is sufficient air circulation between the bushes. That's why optimal distance between them is considered 20-30 cm.
Hybrid varieties of primroses can bloom in as little as 6 months. But other varieties may have color only in the second year.
When leaving a bush for the winter, you need to make sure that they are covered with tree leaves. 10 cm of dry leaves is enough for this. Then the primroses can safely overwinter.