Growing cherries in the middle zone. How to grow cherries in central Russia How cherries bear fruit in central Russia

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Cherry is one of the earliest stone fruit crops. Its fruits are distinguished by a sweet and rich taste, as well as a variety of colors - from creamy yellow and pale pink to burgundy, almost black. How to grow cherries in a summer cottage?

It is impossible not to note the decorative nature of the tree itself, which in the spring is covered with snow-white flowers exuding a light aroma of almonds, and in the fall it glows with golden-crimson foliage. In addition, cherry is an excellent honey plant; its flowers are readily visited by bees, bumblebees and other insects.

Selection of planting material

When choosing a seedling, pay special attention to its appearance. Height annual plant must be at least 100 cm, and the bark must be smooth (wrinkling is not allowed), without root shoots and mechanical damage. The seedling must have a vertical or close to vertical trunk. The root system must be well developed and have at least 3 roots more than 20 cm long.

If you buy a seedling in the spring, make sure that its bark and root cambium are not frozen (frozen tissues are brown when cut). A high-quality seedling is not allowed to have a thorn on the rootstock, bark burns that reach the wood, or the presence of leaves.

As you know, the best choice of seedlings is in the fall. However, spring planting is preferable for cherries. Therefore, it is better to bury purchased seedlings for the winter. To do this, place them in a hole 30-40 cm deep at an angle of 30-45°C with the crowns facing south. Then cover most of the seedlings (2/3) with soil, compacting it at the roots and stems so that there are no voids, and water a little.

When buying a cherry seedling, pay attention to the presence of buds on the stems (in cherries they stick out, swell by mid-April and can easily break off during transportation). If they are not there, it is better not to take such seedlings - dormant cherry buds do not wake up, and seedlings without buds, as a rule, die.

Planting cherries

It is best to plant cherries 3-5 days after the soil has completely thawed (before the buds swell). Dig a hole 70-80 cm wide and 50-60 cm deep. Pour the top fertile layer of soil into it with a mound, mixed with 15-30 kg of compost or rotted manure, 200 g of superphosphate and 60 g of potassium salt. Fresh manure, nitrogen fertilizers, and lime are not recommended.

Plant the seedling so that the root collar is at soil level, taking into account its settlement by 2-5 cm. Then pour a cushion of soil around it, water well (2 buckets of water per plant) and mulch with peat or humus.

Most cherry varieties have low self-fertility (1-5%). Therefore, if you want to receive stable high yield, take care of the pollinating variety (good pollinators are considered Iput, Gastinets, Northern). And one more important point. The fact is that cherry pollen is very “heavy” and cannot be spread by the wind. Pollination occurs only thanks to insects. The need for pollinator varieties does not mean that several trees should grow on the site different varieties. If other varieties of cherries grow in neighboring areas, then you will not have problems with pollination.

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Cherry fruits captivate with taste and are in great demand. Gardeners also love the crop because it is almost not damaged by diseases and pests. The cherry tree is powerful, reaches a height of 20 meters and has a semi-spreading crown. On calcareous soils with a high organic content, with good care, a cherry tree will live up to 100 years.

Popular varieties of cherries

A lot of cherries are grown in Moldova, Ukraine, and Georgia. In the Russian Federation, the crop is successfully cultivated in the Stavropol region, Crimea, Krasnodar region and Dagestan. In these regions, thanks to the mild southern climate, any variety can be planted.

Recently, excellent cultivars have appeared for the temperate climate of the middle zone. The first varieties of cherries for the Central Black Earth Region were obtained at the Rossoshan experimental station:

• Julia– a tree up to 8 meters high with vertical branches. The berries are pink-yellow.
• Early pink– tree height up to 5 m, pink berries with a yellow side.
• Rossoshanskaya large– late-ripening variety with large dark berries – up to 7 g. The tree is tall.

Cherry selection is successfully carried out at the Oryol Experimental Station. Oryol breeders have developed 3 new varieties:

• Orlovskaya pink- the most frost-resistant of all Oryol varieties, can withstand spring thaws. The berries are yellow, tree height is 3.5 m.
• Poetry– a large-fruited variety with heart-shaped fruits of a dark red color. Tree 3.5 m high.
• Baby- a tree no more than 3 meters high, which is rare for a tall crop. The crown is compact. Thanks to small sizes, the variety can be covered during spring frosts with any non-woven material. The fruits are bright yellow.

Oryol varieties can withstand temperatures down to -37, giving an average yield of 10 kg per tree. They are resistant to coccomycosis and begin to bear fruit already in the fourth year after planting.

Cherry seedlings are bought in autumn and spring. It is better to buy annual ones - they take root faster. Pay attention to the roots - they should be powerful, and the cuts should be light in color.

It is better not to buy seedlings that have dried leaves on their branches - they root system may be overdried, since seedlings with leaves quickly evaporate moisture. Overdried seedlings do not take root well or do not take root at all.

Nurseries grow tall seedlings for industrial gardens. The height of the plants reaches 2 meters. They grow into trees on a high trunk, which are easy to care for in industrial culture. To grow in dachas, you need other trees: more compact and low-growing ones.

In southern nurseries, cherries are grafted onto Antipka - Magaleb cherry. Even when planted in the fall, they manage to take root, ripen by winter and overwinter well. If a tall seedling is planted in a cold climate, it will go into the winter unprepared and freeze.

IN middle lane In Russia, it is better to choose seedlings grafted onto wild cherries and grown on a small trunk - about 20 cm. After planting, you can independently trim the stem to the desired height, and then grow a tree from it in a bush-like form, without a central trunk.

Preparing cherries for planting

When planting cherries, it is important to choose the right place.

Light

The culture is demanding of light. IN wildlife it never grows near tall trees, preferring places where it can occupy upper tier, suppressing other plants. If a cherry tree in the garden is shaded by taller trees, the crown will begin to stretch upward and the tree will become difficult to maintain. Fruiting will concentrate at the top, and the fruits will become small and lose their sweetness.

The soil

The second requirement of culture, after light, is soil quality. For cherries, soil with a good structure is suitable, allowing air to penetrate deep into the ground.

The tree will not grow on clay. Loose, heated, organic-rich loams and sandy loams are better suited, in which the roots can penetrate a layer 20-60 cm from the surface. Individual vertical cherry roots can go 2 meters or more deep.

The wintering of a tree greatly depends on the soil. On heavy clays, cherries freeze out more often. The tree does not tolerate rocky soils well due to the fact that they are poorly soaked with water. In the south, industrial plantations are planted in river floodplains and non-flooded river valleys.

In the south, cherries are planted in the fall. In the temperate zone, only spring planting is used.

The cherry tree grows quickly and needs large area nutrition. Seedlings are planted in the corners of a square with a side length of at least 6 m.

The soil for planting is carefully prepared. Later, the soil in the tree trunk circles cannot be deeply cultivated to add fertilizer or ameliorants. Impressive holes are dug for planting seedlings: width 1 m, diameter 0.8 m. Under each seedling, the following is added to the bottom of the pit:

• 10 kg of humus;
• 3 packs of double superphosphate;
• 500 gr. potash fertilizers.

Sweet cherries have the same agricultural technology as cherries. The main difference in growing crops is that cherries do not have self-fertile varieties.

In the year of planting, nothing is planted in the tree trunk circles; the soil is kept under black fallow. Weeds are strictly weeded out throughout the growing season.

Next year, the row spacing can be used for growing other crops, leaving at least 1 m of free area next to the tree. Then, every year, another 50 cm is added to the tree trunk circle. The tree trunk circles are always kept free of weeds and, if possible, mulched with any bulk material.

A pollinating variety should be planted next to the cherry tree. A universal pollinator for any cherry is the Crimean variety.

Vegetables and flowers can be planted next to young cherry trees in the rows of the garden.

Bad neighborhood

You should not plant perennial crops between rows, for example, berry bushes. Cherries grow quickly. Despite the delicate appearance of the seedlings, they will quickly turn into trees and their crowns will close together.

Watering

Cherry is moderately demanding of moisture compared to other crops. She does not like waterlogging, reacting to it with gum production. In areas where groundwater comes close to the surface, the roots rot and the tree dies in a matter of years.

The requirements for moisture are influenced by the characteristics of the rootstock. If antipowder was used for the rootstock, the tree will be more drought-resistant. A plant grafted onto a wild cherry seedling, on the contrary, is very sensitive to drought.

Three additional waterings are carried out in the garden during the summer, each time mulching or loosening the soil crust. The crop reacts poorly to dry or humid air - the fruits rot or become smaller.

Cherry trees are treated against pests and diseases as they appear. The crop is resistant to phytopathologies and harmful insects, so you won’t have to spray the garden often.

Top dressing

Cherry is a fast-growing crop. Certain varieties come into offering in the fourth year. For this the tree will need a lot nutrients. The garden is fertilized in the fall, adding organic matter and mineral fertilizers. It is advisable to apply the fertilizer to a depth of 20 cm.

In arid areas, dry fertilizers should not be applied - they will burn the roots. Mineral granules are first dissolved in water, and then the solution is poured, after spilling the soil with clean water.

The largest concentration of suction roots of cherries is located around the perimeter of the crown - it is worth pouring the fertilizer solution there. It is useless to pour fertilizers next to the trunk - they will not be absorbed, since an adult tree does not have suction roots in this area.

You can improve the condition of the tree and increase productivity by using green manure. For this purpose, the trunk circles and row spacing of the garden are sown with perennial legumes:

• lupine;
• clover;
• sainfoin;
• Lyadvinets;
• alfalfa;
• sweet clover

The above-ground part of the grasses is regularly mowed, leaving no more than 10-15 cm on the surface. Nitrogen-fixing bacteria develop on the underground parts of leguminous grasses, enriching the soil in the garden with nitrogen useful for cherries. A garden where row spacing and trunk circles are kept planted with grass will have to be watered much more often, since the deep root system of perennial legumes pumps a lot of water out of the soil.

Trimming

If the cherry tree is not shaped, the harvest will be low, and the tree will grow bulky, inconvenient for care and harvesting. Birds love cherry berries. By making the tree compact and low, you can cover it with a net during the ripening of the crop, and then the birds will not get to the tasty fruits.

The cherry tree has a sparse crown; few skeletal branches form on the tree, so shaping is not difficult. The crown shape that needs to be given to the tree depends on the type of garden. When planting thickly, trees are formed in the form of palmettes. In the gardens medium density preference is given to flat-round and cup-shaped shapes.

Cherry trees can only be pruned in the spring, removing branches that have frozen over the winter, thinning out and shortening annual growth. When shortening lateral branches, the rule is that the central conductor should always be 20 cm higher than the skeletal branches.

The most popular low-growing form of cherry in amateur gardens is called “Spanish bush”, as it was developed in Spain. It represents a short trunk on which a bowl-shaped crown is formed.

Step-by-step guide to forming a “Spanish bush”:

1. When planting, cut the seedling at a height of 60-70 cm.
2. In the first year, when the seedling takes root, leave 4 side shoots on it, giving the tree a cup-shaped shape.
3. It is necessary that the shoots grow at least 60 cm in the first year.
4. Remove the remaining shoots growing from the stem into a ring.

As a result of the “Spanish bush” formation, you will get a plant on a low stem with four skeletal branches. Branches growing inside the bush can be removed completely or, if the tree is young, shortened to 10-15 cm. When the tree grows, the internal branches must be removed if fruit formations do not form from them.

Each skeletal cherry branch can bear fruit for no more than 10 years, after which it must be cut down and replaced with a new one. The crop bears fruit on fruit formations - fruit pods.

A fruit branch is a short branch with flower buds on the side or end. The main cherry crop is formed on them. The fruit is weak-growing, grows no more than 1 cm per year, but is durable.

Pruning should be done in such a way as to preserve the fruit. They try to remove berries from the tree without damaging the fruit formations, since the size of the harvest depends on their number on the tree.

Cherries may also have another type of fruit formation - bouquet branches. Their length reaches 8 cm. For comparison, the length of bouquet branches of plums and apricots is on average 4 cm.

The lifespan of each bouquet branch is 5-6 years. Each of them has fruit buds, and at the tip there is one growth bud. Fruit buds die after fruiting, and a new shoot can form from the growth bud.

Cherry grafting

Few seedlings of varieties suitable for the middle zone are produced. Gardening companies offer seedlings brought from Moldova. They do not take root well not only in central Russia, but even in warm Ukraine.

It makes sense to grow cherries yourself, especially since there are no particular difficulties in this matter. The crop can be grafted in spring using cuttings on cherry rootstocks. The scion - a twig of a suitable variety of cherry - can be taken from neighbors or friends.

Methods for grafting cherries:

• in summer - with a sleeping eye;
• in winter and spring - with a cutting (copulation, splitting, butt, side cut).

Good results are obtained by grafting cherries into the crown of a Magaleb or Antipka cherry, but this operation requires a lot of experience.

What is the cherry tree afraid of?

Cherries almost never get sick. The only weak point of culture is its heat-loving nature. In terms of winter hardiness, the cherry tree is inferior to other Rosaceae: apple, pear, cherry and plum.

Cherries grow best in areas with a mild, warm climate. First of all, frost damages fruit buds. They die at -26. After a cold winter, the tree may survive, but there will be no berries on it. Wood freezes at temperatures below -30.

Midland cherries are afraid of winters without snow. Without snow cover, the roots of the tree freeze. This situation can arise when the autumn warmth is abruptly replaced by severe frosts, and there is little or no snow in the root zone. November frosts in snowless years can destroy a tree.

Long February thaws are also dangerous, when the buds are preparing to emerge from dormancy and can bloom and then die from frost. Blooming buds die if the temperature drops to -2.

Fruit trees (cherry, apricot, peach and others) are particularly demanding of climatic conditions and soil.

Despite this, there are many varieties of stone fruits that take root well not only southern regions, but also in cooler climates. In central Russia, growing cherries is not at all difficult if you provide the tree with proper care.

Compliance with certain rules will help not only to get a healthy, strong tree, but also to increase its yield. Thanks to large selection varieties of cherries, you can choose the most suitable for any climate zone.

If you follow the advice of care experts, growing this fruit tree will not cause much trouble. A few simple secrets will help you grow a magnificent cherry orchard and get an excellent harvest in just a few years.

The best varieties

When choosing seedlings for growing in a garden or country house, it is very important to pay attention to the zoning of variety and species. Southern varieties may not tolerate frost and die, so it is best to pay attention to breeding varieties.

Bred specifically for the conditions of the middle zone (Moscow, Tula, Ivanovo and other regions), cherry varieties have all necessary qualities to get a good harvest.

Factors to pay attention to when purchasing a seedling:

• Frost resistance level. The higher this indicator, the better.
• Tallness. U low growing plants lower chance of freezing. These varieties are also different high yield.
• Timing of flowering and fruit set. It is recommended to choose seedlings of not too early varieties. This reduces the risk of freezing during spring frosts.
• The need for pollination. It is recommended to give preference self-fertile varieties. Even when planting one plant, there is no need for cross-pollination, so you can get a good, abundant harvest.

Taking into account all the factors, as well as the characteristics of the soil and the size of the plot, you can decide on the most suitable varieties cherries for growing in the garden.

"Adeline"

The medium-ripening variety is perfect for growing in small areas. garden plots. The tree grows up to 3 meters in height, has a comfortable pyramidal crown and does not thicken. Productivity of "Adeline" is above average - healthy mature tree produces up to 60 kg of juicy berries.

The advantage of this variety is its good winter hardiness and disease resistance. With good care, cherries very rarely become ill with coccomycosis and moniliosis. In dry summers it may be vulnerable to pests.

The first fruits appear in the 4th year of the seedling’s life. The yield will increase as the cherries mature to 45-60 kg. The heart-shaped berries have an average size weighing 5-6 g. The pulp is juicy red and easily separates from the seed.

The cherry variety "Adeline" takes root well in the Middle Zone and in the climate of the Central Black Earth Region. For planting, it is recommended to choose 2-3 year old seedlings - this will ensure their better survival rate and reduce the risk of contracting diseases from other fruit crops.

"Gronkavaya"

The medium-sized variety is characterized by high yield and increased resistance to disease. Excellent for growing in large gardens. The “Gronkavaya” cherry was bred by Belarusian breeders from the “Severnaya” variety.

The large, dark red fruits are quite shelf-stable and easily transported. Suitable for universal use.

Due to the fact that the variety calmly tolerates even very low temperatures, recommended for cultivation in the middle zone and other regions with cold climates.

Varietal characteristics and features:

• High yield (up to 70 kg per mature tree);
• Winter hardiness index - above average;
• Early ripening, self-fertility, high disease resistance.

Care requirements:

• Since the tree is tall with a spreading crown, it is recommended for growing in large areas. To obtain maximum yield, it is advisable to provide good lighting and regular soil moisture.

"I put"

The cultivation of Iput cherries in the Middle Zone and the Central region began in the early 90s. The variety was obtained as a result of crossing hybrid forms“Leningradskaya Black”, “Victory” and “Jaboulet No. 15”.

Thanks to excellent varietal characteristics and simple care, has gained wide popularity among gardeners. Medium-sized trees have high productivity and are capable of producing more than 90 kg of juicy berries.

Cherries have large juicy fruits dark red color. The stalk is short, thick, the stone is separated with part of the pulp. The average weight of berries is 6-7 g, can reach 9 g. The pulp is juicy, sweet, of medium density.

Caring for and growing cherries of this variety does not require special skills or conditions. Due to its high winter hardiness and resistance to coccomycosis, it is excellent for growing in the Middle Zone.

Planting seedlings

The place for planting cherry seedlings should be prepared in advance. A well-lit place, protected from drafts, is selected on the site. In the autumn, even before the onset of frost, a hole is dug 70 by 70 cm or more, depending on the growth of the selected variety.

It is advisable to plant several seedlings of different varieties at once, but at the same flowering time, so that they are natural pollinators of each other.

The soil should be fertile, light, well permeable to moisture. The most suitable areas are with loamy or sandy soil. It is not advisable to plant any variety of cherries on clay or peaty soil!

Drainage is poured into the bottom of the hole prepared for planting to avoid stagnation of the inputs. A third of the hole is filled with a soil mixture of fertile soil and humus. In this form, the planting hole remains until spring - the most optimal time for planting cherries in the Middle Zone.

In early spring, when there is no longer any danger of frost, fertilizers are added to the hole and mixed well with fertile soil. 2-3 year old seedlings are planted so that the root neck protrudes several centimeters above ground level.

After planting the tree, the soil is compacted and watered abundantly. For better survival of cherries, the top of the soil is covered with mulch.

Caring for young and mature trees

Young seedlings should be pruned immediately after planting (at approximately 100 cm height). Next season, side shoots will develop from dormant buds to form a crop.

In the 2nd year after planting, the tree is pruned by about 1/3, leaving only well-developed skeletal branches at a level of 90-110 cm. In the next season, the crown is formed depending on the plant variety.

Most an important condition for caring for cherries is proper watering. It is very important to provide the tree with moderate moisture so that it develops properly and to avoid the development of diseases.

Stagnation of moisture can be detrimental to the plant, so in case of high groundwater it is recommended to choose varieties with a small root system. The most optimal solution would be columnar and ornamental trees.

Cherry is a fairly common crop in Russia in general and in the middle zone in particular. This is the oldest variety of cherry. In modern conditions, dozens of varieties have been bred with different sizes, tastes and colors of berries, height and spreading of the crown, and timing of fruit ripening.

Sweet cherries: the best varieties for a personal plot

When choosing seedlings, you need to pay attention to its zoning, since southern varieties will freeze or dry out in colder climates with high snow cover. Therefore, before going to the nursery, you should pay attention to some points:

• Frost resistance. The higher it is, the better.
• Stunting. Such plants are less likely to freeze and have higher yields.
• Late flowering. It allows you to escape from the returning cold.
• Self-fertility. Such varieties do not require cross-pollination, therefore, harvesting is guaranteed even when planting one plant.

Taking into account all factors, you can decide on the variety.

And the way

A tree of medium height (4-5 m) of pyramidal shape with a dense crown. Thick, shortened petioles with three to four white flowers. Flowering early. Fruits of universal use up to 9 g (considered large) are glossy, burgundy to black in color. Juicy, sweet pulp.

Self-sterile, productive (up to 30 kg) variety, resistant to fungal infections.

Lapins

A variety of Canadian selection with low frost resistance, productive with simultaneous ripening of fruits that do not fall off for a long time. The fruits are large – up to 8 g, transportable.

With enhanced agricultural technology, they reach 13 g. Orange-red color and dense pulp. Variety with great strength growth, highly productive, self-fertile, late-ripening. Fruiting begins at the end of July. Universal berries.

Leningradskaya black

The height of the tree usually does not exceed four meters. The crown is spreading. Under good agricultural technology, fruiting can occur in the third year after planting the seedling.

The dark burgundy berries (up to 6 g) do not fall off for a long time, ripen in July, and are picked dry. Used for processing, freezing and fresh.

Summit

The variety is frost-resistant, early-bearing. Berries (10 g) with a wine aftertaste. Transportable. Good fresh and processed. The variety is used for cross-pollination of many types of cherries.

Poetry

Tree up to 3 m with a pyramidal crown shape. Yellow fruits (6 g) with dense creamy pulp. The taste is sweet and sour. Average winter hardiness and drought resistance. The yield is high, the quality of the berries is excellent.

In addition to these varieties, the cherry varieties presented in the table are grown in the middle zone:

Video review of fruitful cherry varieties

When to plant cherries

Spring planting is practiced in Siberian regions with a sharply continental climate - short summer and harsh, long winters. In the middle zone, where the climate is temperate, more humid and warm, cherry seedlings are planted in the fall - in September-October.

This period is considered the most optimal, since the gardener’s task is to allow the seedling to take root well and go into the winter before the growing season (growth and development) begins. If the deadline for autumn planting is missed, then you have to wait for spring. During this period, seedlings are buried in a shallow trench with a slope of 45 degrees until the onset of warm days. In winter, to prevent them from freezing, you need to periodically throw snow on them, and sunburn cover with plywood, boards, non-woven material. Polyethylene cannot be used to avoid spring damping.

If it is necessary to preserve several shoots, they are tied together in 4-5 pieces and placed in a groove with their upper part to the south, with their roots in the deeper part, to the north.

Advantages of autumn planting cherries in the middle zone:

• During this period there is no need frequent watering, since there is quite enough rainfall.
• Seedlings are sold fresh, recently dug up. They still retain young roots and leaves that have not dried out, by which one can determine the condition of the seedling, the presence or absence of infections.
• Large selection and relative cheapness.

And finally, in the fall the gardener has more free time than in the spring.

How to choose and plant cherries correctly

Before purchasing, you need to decide in advance whether this plant will be rooted or on a rootstock. If the second option, then when purchasing, you need to find the grafting site - it has a pronounced thickening just above the root collar.

In addition, the tree must have a main conductor, which will subsequently become the main trunk, and pruning will be done with an eye on it. If there is no central conductor, then the result will be a highly branched plant with a high risk of breaking the crown during the fruiting period.

The root system should be 15 cm long, moist and without obvious damage. It is better to choose annual or biennial seedlings.

Immediately before planting, the plant is inspected again to identify any shortcomings and:

• remove “soaked” roots;
• trim very long root ends;
• cut off those roots that do not fit into the planting hole;
• tear off remaining foliage.

Under no circumstances should branches be cut, unless they are broken during transportation.

If there are dried roots, before planting they are placed in water for several hours (from 2 to 10) to become saturated with moisture.

When the seedlings have been dealt with, you need to determine favorable place for planting cherries. This should be a well-lit area, protected from the north wind.

Cherry does not “like” low-lying areas with high occurrence groundwater, clayey and acidic peat soil.

It “feels” best on loams and sandy loams with good aeration.

The planting site is carefully dug up, weeds removed, and leveled with a rake. Planting pits are planned at a distance of 4-5 meters from each other. Their diameter and depth are 80-90 cm. When the cherry orchard is planned and the holes are ready, the following is added to them:

• humus - 3 buckets;
• ash – 1 l;
• superphosphate – 0.2 kg;
• potash fertilizers – 0.1 kg.

In addition, when clay soil A bucket of sand is poured into the hole, and a bucket of clay is poured into the pit. Mix everything with a shovel and form a small mound in the center for convenient placement of the roots.

Nitrogen fertilizers at autumn planting do not apply to avoid premature growth.

You can start planting. First, a support peg is stuck into the hole, then the seedling is placed strictly vertically and the roots are carefully straightened along the slopes of the mound. It is necessary to ensure that the root collar and place the scion (if any) was 3 cm above the ground surface. The roots are sprinkled with soil, periodically shaking the tree. When the process is half completed, a bucket of water is poured into the hole and planting is completed. The earth around is carefully compacted.

Then, tie the plant to a support and, stepping back 30 cm around the circumference from the trunk, make a small depression into which another bucket of water is poured. It is advisable to mulch the planting site with rotted sawdust or compost. If the soil settles after a few days, it should be added to the general level.

How to care for cherries

Caring for cherries after planting is practically not required:

• The main thing is to protect it from rodents, frostbite, damping off and sunburn. To do this, the trunk should be whitened, wrapped in burlap and toxic chemicals should be spread out. At cold winter It's better to throw some snow.
• In the spring, when the snow melts, the trunk and skeletal branches are whitened - for reflection sun rays and for disease prevention purposes.
• During the growing season, cherries require watering 1-2 times a month: young ones require 2 buckets, adults – 5-6 buckets of water.
• For the first 2-3 years, only nitrogen fertilizers are applied in the spring - they stimulate the growth of branches and green mass.
• Starting from the 4th year, the full mineral complex is added.

The soil under the trees can be mulched, turfed, or kept fallow.

Pruning and shaping cherries

One of the mandatory procedures for caring for cherries is pruning and shaping the tree. It allows you to achieve regular abundant harvests. Improper implementation of these measures inevitably leads to weakening and death of the plant.

Spring pruning of skeletal branches before the start of sap flow is preferable, since they are clearly visible, and with the onset of a warm period, the risk of freezing disappears. The wounds heal quickly.

For the middle zone, the optimal time for the procedure is the end of March-beginning of April. In the autumn, after leaf fall and until October, sanitary pruning is carried out and the crown is thinned out.

Young seedlings begin to form from the first year when they reach 50-55 cm. If the trees have not yet grown to this height, then pruning is postponed until next year. So:

It is not allowed to remove skeletal branches if they have active buds.

If all agrotechnical practices are followed and with proper formation, the cherry tree will delight you with its flowering and abundant harvests from year to year.

Cherries are valued by gardeners for their high yield and unsurpassed taste of the berries. Many people consider this crop to be too demanding in terms of growing conditions, but this is a misconception. In order for cherries to develop well and bear fruit abundantly, the planting and care of which are covered in detail in our material, you only need to choose the right variety, protect it from frost and ensure timely watering and fertilization.

Sweet cherry is the closest relative of the sour cherry. Thanks to new, cold-resistant varieties, it is possible to grow cherries in central Russia and northern regions, despite the southern origin of the culture.

Choosing a cherry seedling

To plant on the site, you should select several varieties of cherries for cross-pollination. In the middle zone and the Moscow region, the following varieties produce good harvests: Cheremashnaya, Krymskaya, Iput, Bryansk pink, Fatezh, Tyutchevka.

Externally, cherry seedlings are very similar to cherries, but upon closer inspection, it is not difficult to distinguish them:

• Cherry trees are taller with erect branches;
• The bark of cherry seedlings is brown with a reddish tint, while the bark of cherry seedlings is gray-brown.

Growing cherries will be successful if the seedling for planting is chosen correctly. His age should not exceed three years (optimally two years). The recommended height of the purchased seedling is at least 80 cm, and it has 3-4 strong shoots. There must be a grafting site on the trunk, which indicates the varietal identity of the seedling. Bark healthy plant smooth, without signs of disease or freezing.

Cherry seedlings from the nursery prepared for transplanting

Root system planting material The cherry tree is well developed and has 3-4 branches 20 cm long. Specimens with dried, rotten or frozen roots should not be purchased - they are not viable. If the root system of the seedling is very dry—a light brown core is visible when cut—the seedling can be revived. To do this, the roots are placed in a container with water for a day.

Choosing a location and planting cherries

Improper planting of cherries can lead to the death of the seedling, so this stage must be approached responsibly.

Choosing a landing site

Cherry prefers areas on the south or southwest side, not blown by north winds. It is allowed to plant trees near the southern walls of the house and on gentle slopes.

Sweet cherries bear fruit well sunny area from the south side

This fruit crop does not tolerate stagnation of moisture, even short-term. Planting cherries in central Russia should be carried out in areas with deep groundwater. Otherwise, soaking the roots will lead to a delay in the development of the tree, and subsequently to its death.

Soil preparation

Cherries develop and bear fruit well on fertile loams and sandy loams with neutral acidity. The soil should be well aerated and saturated with moisture. Peat bogs, deep sandstones and heavy clay soils are not suitable for growing cherries.

It is necessary to prepare the area where you plan to plant the tree in advance. The site is dug up in the fall, adding organic matter (manure or compost) and mineral fertilizers (superphosphate and sodium sulfate). If you need to reduce the pH level of the soil, add about 500 g of lime or chalk.

Planting seedlings in open ground

Sweet cherries take root and develop well, the cultivation and care of which are planned in advance, and the rules and planting dates are followed. In the southern regions, planting is done in the fall and they have time to get stronger before the onset of cold weather. In the conditions of the Moscow region and the middle zone, transplantation should be postponed until spring. Optimal timing spring planting V open ground- end of April, before the buds swell.

When planting a cherry orchard, a distance of at least 3 meters must be maintained between plants. A hole for planting is dug two weeks before planting so that the soil is sufficiently settled. The fertile layer of surface soil is tilted in one direction, and the deep layer in the other. The size of the hole should ensure free placement of the root system in it - a depth of approximately 60 cm and a width of 60-100 cm. It is not recommended to add nitrogen-containing fertilizers and lime into the planting hole, as they can cause burns to the roots.

Preparing a planting hole for cherries

At the bottom of the planting hole, a mound of fertile soil is formed, on which the seedling is placed. The root neck of the cherry tree should not be deepened. It should be at ground level or slightly higher. After planting, you need to water the tree abundantly and mulch the tree trunk.

Cherry - care after planting and before harvesting

Caring for cherries in the first year of planting does not take much effort. It is enough to water the plant in a timely manner and remove weeds in the tree trunk circle. In the future, the tree needs additional care.

Watering and weeding

Watering an adult tree is carried out three times a season, adding 20-30 liters of water. In dry summers, the amount of watering can be increased. You should avoid excess moisture, as cherry roots are prone to rotting. The growth of weeds in the tree trunk circle is unacceptable, so they are regularly removed, the soil is loosened and mulched.

Pollination

For fruiting, you need to ensure good pollination of the cherry during flowering. Cherries of other varieties or cherries will become cross pollinators. To attract bees, cherry flowers can be irrigated with honey or sugar dissolved in water.

It is recommended to grow several varieties of cherries for cross-pollination.

Fertilizing cherries in spring and pre-winter

If the soil was well fertilized when planting, additional fertilizing is not needed for the first 3-5 years. Caring for cherries in central Russia in the future includes the application organic fertilizers which are applied in the spring: 10 kg of compost or rotted manure. Mineral fertilizers (superphosphate) will help the tree prepare for winter. They are brought in no later than September.

Formative and sanitary pruning of cherries

In the year of planting, you need to shorten the side branches to 40 cm. The intensive growth of cherry shoots needs to be restrained. To do this, formative pruning is carried out in the spring before the buds swell.

Cherry pruning is carried out in the spring before the buds swell.

In subsequent years, pruning is carried out to form tiered crown, shortening last year's shoots. At a height of 3-3.5 m, the growth of the main conductor is restrained by pruning. In the spring they carry out sanitary pruning, removing damaged and improperly growing branches.

Harvesting and subsequent care of cherries

Cherries begin to bear fruit 3-4 years after planting. The ripening period of berries may vary depending on the variety. Berry picking often occurs in June and July. Berries with stalks are picked in dry weather.

During the ripening period, starlings and other birds like to feast on the berries. To scare away, you can buy special nets for fruit trees; summer residents also attach rustling and shiny objects. More reliable means of protection are non-woven material or electronic repellers.

Protecting cherry fruits from birds using old computer disks

Caring for cherries after harvest is not difficult. It is necessary to monitor the health of the tree and regularly clean the tree trunk from fallen plant debris. During this period, the amount and rate of watering can be reduced.

Diseases and pests of cherries, and their control

To protect cherries as preventive measures They use early spring (during the swelling of the buds) spraying with a urea solution. Prepare a solution from 10 liters of water and 500-600 g of urea. They treat not only the branches, but also the soil in the tree trunk circle, thereby destroying the insects wintering there.

To combat fungi and moss, treat the trunk and crown with a 5% solution of ferrous sulfate before sap flow begins. Such treatment is sufficient once every few years.

Cherry affected by clasterosporiosis

To combat the main pests: sawfly, mites, aphids, they are treated with Karbofos, Askarin, Fitoverm, Novaktion. Spray the trees during the period of bud opening and bouquet separation. During the same period, prevention of clasterosporiasis, moniliosis and other diseases is carried out with a 5% solution of Bordeaux mixture.

After flowering, prevention of flying pests begins. To do this, spray with Karbofos or Novaktion. The last treatment should be carried out no later than 20 days before the crop ripens.

Preparing cherries for wintering

Mature cherries, planted and cared for according to the rules, tolerate winter well without shelter. It is enough to whiten the base of the trunk and skeletal branches, add 150 g of superphosphate to the soil in September, and mulch the tree trunk circle with peat. Also in the fall it is necessary to carry out abundant saturating watering.

Autumn whitewashing of cherries

Young seedlings need shelter. You should not wrap them with artificial materials (lutrasil, spunbond). It is better to give preference to spruce branches or burlap, under which the trees breathe in winter and will not rot.

Even inexperienced gardeners can grow cherries in central Russia and other regions. By choosing the right seedling and planting site, as well as following simple care rules, you can harvest excellent harvest juicy and sweet berries.

Growing cherries attracts gardeners with a harvest of sweet and ripe berries. Despite the heat-loving plant, there are varieties intended for the middle zone, Leningrad region, Urals and Siberia. If agricultural practices and care are followed, the crop will bear fruit in 3 years.

The tree is vigorous and loves warmth, so it is important to consider its location. It is recommended to remove cherries from neighboring plantings by 2 meters. Proper planting of cherries includes:

1. Preliminary digging or plowing of the site.
2. Immerse the seedling in water for 6 hours to replenish the roots with moisture.
3. Cut branches by a third.
4. Preparing the planting hole. Dig a hole 80 by 80 cm and 60 cm deep.
5. Creating a nutritious soil mixture based on 2-3 buckets of humus, half a kilo of superphosphate and a kilogram of ash.
6. Mixing the ingredient with the top layer of soil.
7. Formation of an embankment and placement of a seedling on it without deepening the root collar.
8. Distributing the root and filling the cherry tree with soil.
9. Watering and tying the plant to a pre-prepared stake.
10. Mulching trunk circle dry grass, peat, straw, humus.

Sweet cherries love fertilizing, but exceeding their quantity provokes autumn shoot formation. The optimal time for fertilization is in spring (complex minerals) and autumn (superphosphate and potassium).

Ash can be replaced with 120 g. potassium sulfate.

Site requirements

Cherries are light-loving, so it is better to plant the tree in the south or southwest of the garden. The planting site must be protected from the north wind and drafts, which will harm even winter-hardy varieties.

The tree can be planted near the southern wall of the building or on a gentle slope.

Agronomists note several points for successful tree survival.

Soil type

Culture takes root fertile land with good aeration and ability to absorb moisture:

• the optimal soil type is light or medium loams, sandy loams with neutral acidity;
• the tree will not grow on peat bogs and clay soil;
• mandatory application of organic matter and minerals in the fall;
• into the landing hole on clay soil you need to add 2 buckets of sand, on sandstones - clay in the same amount.

Cherry grows on slopes, small hills, and artificial embankments 50 cm high.

To lower the soil pH, add lime or chalk in an amount of 500 grams.

Neighboring plantings

The culture is characterized by cross-pollination, so 2-3 other varieties or cherries are planted near the cherry. Reception increases fruiting, especially if the flowering dates of the trees coincide.

Humidity

The plant is moisture-loving, but stagnant water can harm the root system. It will rot in an area with a high groundwater level.

Planting dates and scheme

The optimal time for planting a crop is spring, before bud formation begins. Preparatory work is carried out in the fall - they dig a hole and fertilize it with humus. In spring, add 300 grams. superphosphate, 100 gr. sodium sulfate (the mixture can be replaced with 1 kg of ash).

Exceeding the fertilizer rate will lead to increased growth of stems, which simply will not ripen by the time of the growing season.

The exact planting dates depend on regional characteristics:

• in the middle zone and Moscow region, planting is carried out at the end of April;
• in warm areas - in autumn, before the ground freezes;
• in Siberia - before the buds begin to bloom.

The landing scheme provides:

• Keeping the cherry tree 4 meters away from other green spaces will prevent mutual shading. Columnar varieties are spaced 3 meters apart;
• digging a hole 14 days before spring planting - for soil shrinkage;
• soil sorting - the fertile layer is separated from the deep layer, tilting it in the other direction;
• selection of pit sizes taking into account root growth - the width should be 60-100 cm, and the depth should be 60 cm;
• Cherries are not planted deeply; the root collar is slightly raised above the ground line;
• making a hole and forming a cushion around the edges, watering (1 bucket of water) and mulching.

It is recommended to shorten the crown of a two-year-old seedling along the central axis, but only during early planting.

Do not add nitrogen compounds to the planting hole to avoid burning the roots.

Pit preparation

Type preparatory work depends on the timing of planting and soil type.

Autumn planting

When placing cherries in the ground in the fall, the area is prepared in 14-21 days. It needs to be dug deep, add 10 kg of compost, 180 g. superphosphate and 100 gr. saltpeter per 1 sq.m. You can do liming of acidic soil or tillage special means for cherries and cherries 10 days after the main additives.

Spring planting

If planted in the spring, the hole is also prepared in the fall, taking into account the weather. From October to November, the area is dug up and humus or compost is added. After the snow melts and the soil dries out, minerals, including nitrogen, are added. Cuttings are planted after 7 days.

The first set of fertilizers applied during planting is enough for 3 years.

Preparing clay and sandy soil

The organization of a planting pit for soil saturated with clay or sand has been carried out over several years:

• in the first year, digging is carried out, clay or sand is added;
• Over the course of 3-4 years, the site is fertilized in the fall or spring.

14 days before planting, prepare the hole.

Parameters and preparation of the seat

Due to the growth of tree roots, the planting hole is made wide (up to 1 meter) and deep (from 60 to 80 cm). A support peg is placed in the center. A nutrient substrate is poured into the bottom of the pit in the form of a slide around a support. The soil mixture is compacted and covered with deep soil, which is leveled. 2 buckets of water are poured into the ground and left for 14 days to shrink.

Choosing a cherry seedling

Cherry seedlings resemble cherry trees, but differ in several ways. They are tall, have erect branches, and reddish-brown bark. For successful cultivation tree, it is worth taking a responsible approach to the choice of seedlings.
The optimal plants will be two to three year old plants, 80 cm in length, with 2-3 strong shoots, smooth and healthy bark. When purchasing, consider:

• appearance of the root system. Formed, branched roots without damage and dry shoots will take root in the soil faster;
• appearance of the central trunk and side shoots. The central trunk should be clear, straight, with lateral branches. The more there are, the easier it will be to mold the crown;
• presence of a vaccination mark. High-yielding varietal plants have a mark on the trunk.

Vigorous seedlings take longer to acclimatize.

Buy plants in a container or wrap them in a damp cloth and plastic bag when transporting.

Planting cherries

Planting work is carried out in stages:

1. In the spring, 60 grams are added to the prepared hole. potassium sulphide, 100-120 gr. superphosphate and mix them with soil.
2. A support for the tree is placed in the hole, and unfertilized soil is poured into its center. fertile soil, forming a hill.
3. A prepared seedling is installed in the middle of the hill (can be planted with container soil) and the roots are carefully distributed.
4. The cherry is tied to a support peg and earth is gradually added, compacting it with hands.
5. The tree is watered abundantly.
6. The tree trunk circle is mulched with peat, leaves, and humus.

When planting, do not forget that the root collar should not be lower than 3-5 cm from the ground.

Watering and removing weeds from cherries

An adult tree and a young seedling require regular watering. During the growing season, water is added at least 3 times:

• before flowering;
• in midsummer;
• in the fall along with the last feeding.

Applying water in winter before the onset of cold weather helps saturate the soil with moisture.

It is worth watering cherries so that the water goes into the soil 70-80 cm. After watering, the tree trunk circle is loosened and mulched.

Cherries - cultivated plant, which is contraindicated in the close presence of weeds. They are removed with a hoe, annually expanding the trunk circle from 20 to 50 cm. For a one-year-old tree it is 80 cm, for a two-year-old tree it is more than a meter.
In the first year of planting, the soil should be kept in a state of black steam, completely destroying weeds. The cleaned area is covered with mulch.

Pollination

The tree is cross-pollinated. To ensure good and regular fruiting, 2-3 other varieties of cherries or cherries are planted. You can lure bees with sugar or honey dissolved in water. The composition is sprayed with a spray bottle or a broom from a bucket.

Cherry feeding: spring and winter

In the case of good pre-planting fertilizer, the tree does not need subcortex for the first 3-5 years. In the future you will need to enter:

• organic matter - 10 kg of manure, poultry or compost in the fall;
• minerals - superphosphate in September to prepare the plant for wintering;
• nitrogen supplements – for two-year-old plants in dry form and in liquid form in May;
• phosphorus and potassium - in the 4th year of growth in mid-summer.

During the last feeding you need to focus on external signs– yellowed and falling leaves. Fertilizers are embedded in the soil when digging with a 10 cm deepening.

Cherry care

Maintenance work is carried out annually.

Spring care

Activities begin with spring warming. The insulating material is removed from the trunks, and the branches are inspected for damage. The wounds are treated with garden varnish, and the dead material is cut off.
After the end of frost, for a 3-year-old tree, urea (120 g) is added, which must be scattered near the tree and buried to a depth of 10 cm. It is allowed to water the trunk circle in May - you will need 20-25 g. urea per 10 liters of water.
Trees over 3 years old are fed with ammophoska and humus. To strengthen the bark, granulated potassium sulfate and superphosphate are used.

Sweet cherries are demanding when it comes to fertilizing, so the dosage must be calculated taking into account the age of the tree:

• 1-3 summer plant 40 gr is enough. ammophoska per 1 sq.m.;
• 4-5 summer trees 120-150 gr is enough. superphosphate per 1 sq.m.;
• A 10-year-old cherry tree requires 150-200 grams. urea, 100 gr. potassium, 200 gr. superphosphate per 1 sq.m.

An adult tree requires 30-35% more additives than a young tree.

IN spring time It is advisable to carry out preventive treatment against pests with fungicides and urea. The last component in the amount of 500 g. per 10 liters of water is used before bud formation begins. The procedure helps delay flowering, which preserves fruit ovaries during recurrent frosts. Faded cherries are sprayed with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture according to the instructions.

Caring for cherries in autumn

Fall grooming activities include:

• adding superphosphate during digging (60 g) and ash (500 g) per 1 sq.m.;
• fertilizing before frost with organic matter - humus in the amount of 20-30 kg per tree;
• sanitary pruning – broken, diseased and weak branches with an angle of less than 45 degrees are removed;
• processing of cuts with garden varnish.

Pre-winter watering must be carried out between the end of October and the beginning of November. Adding 6-10 buckets of water, percolating 50 cm into the soil, increases winter hardiness and yield.

When feeding, focus on the projection of the crown, imagining it in the form of a square.

Spraying cherries in autumn

First autumn processing must be performed 3 weeks before harvest ripening. The second, in October-November, helps prepare the garden for winter. After leaf fall, you can start spraying using chemicals. Gardeners recommend copper or inkstone, urea, urea, diesel fuel or ZOV.
Chemicals are sprayed evenly from a compressor or pump. The substance should cover the cherries in the form of an even dew. Spraying requires careful treatment of the entire tree. Before harvesting, the leaves must be coated with a fungicide (insecticide) on both sides.

Preparing cherries for wintering

An adult tree overwinters without shelter. It is enough to whiten it, feed it, add water and mulch the tree trunk circle.
Young seedlings must be covered. This will protect them from freezing. Artificial materials They are not suitable for winding - the cherries rot in them. Spruce branches and burlap will ensure normal air circulation.

Autumn whitewashing

Painting cherries with lime in the fall promotes:

• protecting the bark from burns by the February and March sun;
• preventing frost damage and cracking of the bark surface during temperature fluctuations;
• destruction of pest larvae hidden in the bark.

Both young and old crops are whitened in October-November. The tree trunk is treated from the root collar to the skeletal branches. You can cover the lower skeletal branches by a third. The solution is prepared from 2 kg of lime, 400 g. copper sulfate, 1 kg of clay, 1 kg of fresh manure. There should be enough liquid so that the composition resembles low-fat sour cream.

Collection and storage of cherries

The berries are removed from the tree after the characteristic signs of ripening appear, but in a solid state. To preserve juiciness, work is carried out in the morning. The fruits are removed together with the “tails” - this way they are stored longer and are not damaged during transportation.

Use buckets and pour the berries out of them onto a cloth - this makes it easier to sort them.

Before storing cherries, do not wash them so as not to remove the wax. How the blanks are made:

• placed in a paper bag on the bottom shelf or fruit compartment in the refrigerator (temperature plus 1 degree);
• dried in an electric dryer;
• stored in trays covered with a lid;
• put in the freezer, packaged in plastic bags, from which the air is first removed;
• canned - stays in the cellar for up to 1 year;
• make jam - store in a dark place.

Fresh berries are stored from 48 hours to 5 days in a cool place, 3 days without refrigeration, subject to storage conditions - from 5 days to 3 weeks.

GOST notes the optimal environment for storing fresh cherries: temperature from minus 1 to plus 2 degrees, humidity 90-95%.

Growing cherries in the country or in the garden requires certain care rules. Only if you follow them will you get a good harvest and be able to pamper your family delicious berries or sell them.