Choosing an ax for setting up and working in a field camp, sharpening an ax in the field. Shadowmoon Valley

The quality of a hand tool is one of the important criteria for evaluating it when choosing. A practical, convenient and reliable tool significantly increases labor productivity, facilitates the process itself and eliminates the possibility of injury. This is especially true for a tool such as an ax.

Its use involves intense dynamic loads with a particular risk of injury. If the tool is handled ineptly, the ax often falls off the handle and injures the worker. To prevent this from happening, you must first learn how to place an ax on an ax handle.

About varieties

Today there are about ten types of chopping tools. And before placing an ax on an ax handle, it is necessary to determine what type it is: carpenter's, combat, tourist, or a woodcutter's tool. Although all axes consist of a handle and a metal part, each type of weapon differs in its purpose and design features. Each one has special recommendations regarding how to properly place an ax on an ax handle. The photo below, for example, shows the features of attaching the metal part to the handle in a carpenter's axe. In other types of weapons it is slightly different.

How are the axes attached?

There are several methods for attaching a handle to a metal part:

• Welding. Provides reliability and durability of the tool.
• Production of an ax as a solid weapon. Characterized by rigidity and strong recoil.
• Bonding method in a special chamber using epoxy materials. Polymer materials are used for ax handles, which are very difficult to glue together at home. Drying chambers are required for this type of work.
• Placement of the metal part onto the handle with further wedging. This connection method is considered the most ideal for doing at home.

To successfully complete the job, you need good qualifications, time and an understanding of how to fit an ax onto an ax handle. You can do this yourself if you have the skills and necessary tools. In case of failure, if the metal chopping part does not hold securely on the handle or the structure has become loose over time, the mounting and wedging procedure should be repeated again.

How to place an ax on an ax handle?

Despite the apparent simplicity of the connection using pushing and wedging, this work is not easy to do. It has its own nuances that should be taken into account. To facilitate the process, professional carpenters recommend following step-by-step instructions, which contain the following steps:

• preparation for work;
• production of steel and wooden products for wedging;
• planting and wedging.

Start. Preparatory stage

Before starting work you must:

1. Buy an ax handle. According to experienced carpenters, dried birch is ideal as a material for its manufacture. This tree is very popular because it has all the necessary properties. When choosing a handle, you need to consider the thickness of the product and its shape.
2. It is recommended to check the ax handle for a comfortable grip. Ignoring this aspect will lead to the need to perform unnatural compensating power movements during chopping, and this, in turn, is fraught with rapid fatigue.
3. Fit the acquired ax handle to the eye of the ax. The work consists of using a knife or other woodworking tool to trim the handle to the desired shape (straight or conical). Eyelets with a conical shape are considered the best because they provide a very secure fastening.
4. Make a cut at the top of the handle. This work is performed at the end. A cut is a longitudinal groove that is made using You can make one (along the end) or several cuts (three lateral and one longitudinal). It depends on how the craftsman decides to mount the axe. According to professionals, the most effective is a longitudinal cut with four lateral cuts. An important nuance at this stage is the width and depth of the cut. The resulting groove must be hidden in the eye, otherwise, when wedging or using the ax, its handle may split. The width should correspond to the thickness of the wedges. But at the same time, they should not fit into the cuts either too easily (the sawing procedure loses its meaning) or too tightly, since this may lead to the splitting of the axe.
5. Before placing the ax on the ax handle, you need to align the axis of the blade and the axis of the handle in one plane.

Preparing wedges

Reliable fastening of the chopping element with the handle is possible under the condition of high-quality wedging. To do this, the master will need wooden and metal wedges.

You can purchase them at a hardware store or make your own. The shape and dimensions of the wedges must correspond to the type of cut and the material from which the ax handle is made. For a wooden wedge, dried birch wood is suitable. For a metal product, hard tin (a shovel) is suitable.

Hammering

Beginning home craftsmen often ask questions: how to properly place an ax on an ax handle, how to hammer in wooden and steel wedges?

Hammering is a simple process. This work should be started if the handle and wedges are already fully prepared.

The first thing you need to hammer in is the longitudinal one, which is done with light blows of the hammer. It is undesirable to knock hard, as this can flatten the wood, reducing the stability of the connection. After the wedge fills the cut, the remains must be carefully cut off using a hacksaw blade. The work is considered successful if, during testing, the ax mounted on the handle holds firmly and does not wobble.

Wedging

According to the prevailing belief among beginners, wooden wedges should be made of the same wood as the ax handle. But that's not true.

• First of all, the wood must be durable.
• The direction of the fibers must also be taken into account. It should be parallel to the narrowing of the wedge. This direction will prevent the latter from breaking when driven into the cut. A broken wedge does not effectively expand the ax to the sides. Wedging is considered successful when the wedge has completely filled the entire cutting space and cannot be removed.
• When making wedges, it is important that the dimensions of the transverse products correspond to the size of the eye.
• In some cases the eyelet may have gaps. They can be corrected using gauze or a bandage, impregnated with a material that protects the wood from getting wet and performs a reinforcing function. To perform reinforcement, it is necessary to wrap several layers of gauze around the upper part of the handle before attaching the ax. The resin is poured into the cuts and fills all existing voids and cracks. After it hardens, the wedges are hammered in. In this case, wooden wedges are driven in first, and then iron wedges. The distance between them should be at least 0.3 cm. The iron wedge at the end is bent at one edge so as to cover the wooden one.

Which side should the ax be placed on the ax handle?

Features of mounting an ax depend on its shape. Standard Soviet-made products are characterized by a cone-shaped cutting part. This enhances its wedging properties and eliminates errors when placing it on the handle.

According to the rules, you need to put on the ax in such a way that the wedge and the end of the handle protrude 0.5 cm beyond the eye. This is possible if the ax is set with its narrow part towards the wedge, and its wide part towards the ax handle. With this mounting, the worker can, if necessary, push the loose chopping part back into place by knocking the ax on something hard. After this, you need to re-hammer the wedge, but deeper.

In carpentry, the reverse position of the ax is often used. It is necessary in those rare cases if the ax is used not as the main tool, but as an auxiliary tool to trim or trim something. The reverse attachment method is mainly used for sledgehammers and splitting axes. There are no wedges provided for them. The entire load goes to the extreme part of the handle, which holds the metal part of the ax.

In conclusion

Depending on the shape of the metal chopping part chosen, it is decided which side to place the ax on the ax handle. It is important that the tool is comfortable and ergonomic.

By following the step-by-step instructions, you can quickly prepare the ax for work yourself.

“It’s not the fur coat that warms a man, it’s the axe,” says popular wisdom. An indispensable assistant in the household, the “right hand” of any carpenter - this is all about a completely simple tool called an ax.

Whether it's an ax for the garden or for professional use, the demand for this tool will never go away.

A conscientious attitude towards operation, the ability to properly prepare a tool for work will not only help to avoid troubles, but will also serve as a guarantee of the successful completion of the planned work.

Experienced craftsmen know how to make an axe. Having understood the technology and studied practical recommendations, making an ax with your own hands is not difficult for a non-professional.

Piercing attachment for an ax

When choosing a piercing metal part for a future ax, the quality of the material deserves special attention. Parts manufactured according to GOST are what you need.

You should avoid markings MRTU, OST or TU on the nozzle, because these designations allow for changes in technology during the pouring process of the part (the addition of third-party substances that affect the quality of the material is possible).

When a blade hits another, there should be no marks left on both. Curvature of the material, the presence of any kind of dents, and a curved blade axis are completely eliminated.

The importance of the handle

You can choose the optimal length of the ax based on the height of the master and the force of the blow. Strength, in turn, directly depends on the length, so when working with a large ax, it will be easier to chop logs of firewood.

Before making a choice, you should decide on the desired result:

• heavy version of the tool (total weight 1 kg - 1.4 kg, handle length from 55 to 65 cm);
• lightweight version (weight 0.8 kg-1 kg, with a length from 40 to 60 cm).

The quality of the wood from which the ax handle will be made is of great importance. Not every type of wood is suitable for manufacturing. Often, birch is used for these purposes (parts located near the roots or stem growths).

There are also handles made of oak, acacia, maple and other hardwoods. All selected workpieces require long-term drying.

After the wooden blank has dried well, the contours of the handle are drawn on it, according to a pre-made template. To avoid hand slipping during operation and to increase the convenience of the ax, it is necessary to provide a thickening at the end of the handle.

A knife, chisel, or electric jigsaw will help you cut out the outline.

After trying on the ax head and not finding any signs of a loose fit of the parts, you can safely continue improving the ax handle. Glass will help you scrape the tool, and sandpaper will be useful for grinding.

Attaching the piercing attachment to the handle

Correctly following the nozzle instructions will lead to excellent results:

The eye of the cutting part must be adjusted to the upper part of the ax handle; the excess wood can be easily removed with a knife.

Make a mark on the ax handle where the piercing part will end. To do this, you need to place the handle lying down to avoid inaccuracies. Divide the resulting segment in half and make a corresponding mark.

Holding the ax handle while standing, you need to make a cut to the second mark. This is done with a hacksaw and used for a wedge.

Plan a wooden wedge similar to a previously purchased metal one. The width is equal to the size of the eye, the thickness of the product is from 5 to 10 mm, and the length is equal to the depth of the cut.

Having placed the board on the table, you need to place the piercing part on it, located upside down. Next, you should put this part on the handle and slowly start tapping it on the board.

From time to time you need to change the method of tapping from the piercing part to tapping with an axe.

As soon as the piercing part enters the eye, you need to place the ax vertically and insert a wooden wedge. A hacksaw for metal will help to saw off all unnecessary materials that, as a result of the attachment, will end up on top.

At the end, oil is applied to the handle and the product is thoroughly dried. The correct execution can be compared with the photo of the ax for the dacha posted below.

Blade sharpening

To avoid hassles that arise during work, it is necessary to take a responsible approach to sharpening the blade. Standard indicators of compliance with GOST:

• the sharpening angle for construction work is 20-30°;
• for carpentry 35°.

Compliance with the sharpening requirements is very important. The mismatch between the degrees leads to the fact that when cutting with an ax, the blade gets stuck in the wood.

During initial sharpening, minor damage, nicks and gouges are eliminated. Afterwards, secondary sharpening is carried out. The end of the process is the grinding process, carried out with a fine-grained stone.

A tool made with your own hands according to instructions is always the best ax you can have in your dacha.

Photos of the best ax options for a summer residence

There is practically no substitute for a good ax when working on setting up and arranging a field camp. There are many different shapes and sizes of axes. It is generally accepted that the larger the axe, the easier and safer it is to work with it, although such axes are heavy and not very convenient to carry and store.

Choosing an ax for setting up and working in a field camp, sharpening an ax in the field.

When choosing an ax, the most important thing is to achieve some compromise between its weight, size and ease of use. It is worth thinking and weighing all the pros and cons. Maybe a small hatchet weighing from 500 grams to 1 kilogram is more suitable for you, rather than a large cleaver weighing several kilograms?

With a small ax you will not be able to fell a large tree, but it is easier and simpler for them to chop small branches, preparing firewood for the fire. Just remember that with a small hatchet it is much easier to hurt yourself or injure yourself.

When choosing an ax, the main attention should be paid to its blade. By and large, ax blades come in three shapes - convex, concave and flat. Each blade shape is good for its task and a certain range of work. And of course, each person may have their own preferences in this regard. The most universal is considered to be an ax with a slightly concave blade and a rounded cutting edge.

Convex ax blade.

An ax with a convex blade is good for chopping wood, but if the blade is too convex, it will not be able to penetrate deeply into the tree, and you will have to put more effort into the work.

Concave ax blade.

An ax with a concave blade will be good when performing work that does not require deep penetration into the wood. For example, for cutting branches from tree trunks. However, if the blade is too concave, it will be difficult to pull it out of the wood if it jams.

Flat ax blade.

An ax with a flat blade is the most versatile and can be used to perform a variety of jobs.

The shape of the cutting edge of the ax is also very important - rounded or flat. An ax with a rounded cutting edge will penetrate the tree easier and deeper, which means it will require less effort when working with it.

It is more convenient to chop with a well-sharpened ax not only for practical reasons, because it requires much less effort, but also for safety reasons. A dull ax that slips when you try to chop something with it can cause serious damage.

The principles of sharpening an ax are the same as for a knife, but the techniques are somewhat different. When sharpening a knife, it is moved with the blade along the whetstone, and with an ax it is the opposite - the abrasive moves along its blade. To make the process of sharpening an ax easier, you can purchase a special sharpener, for example.

The first stage of sharpening an ax.

Produced with a file. This step will be necessary if the cutting edge of the ax is severely dull or damaged. During the sharpening process, a large layer of metal is removed from it, so it is not advisable to bring the ax to this state. You can skip this stage if the ax is dull or not very damaged and go straight to the second stage.

Turning the blade towards you, move the file along the cutting edge along its entire length, then turn the ax with the other side and repeat the operation. Sharpening continues until all nicks or dents are gone. Both sides should be processed evenly.

The second stage of sharpening the ax.

Produced with a coarse grindstone. Wet the surface of the whetstone with water and, holding it at an angle to the ax blade, move it in a circular motion clockwise from left to right. Turn the blade over and do the same operation on the other side of the cutting edge. Repeat the entire procedure until the blade becomes the desired sharpness.

The third stage of sharpening an ax.

It involves straightening the cutting edge of an ax blade and is done with a fine-grained sharpening stone. Just as in the second stage, make circular movements, but counterclockwise, from right to left.

Working with an ax in the field and storing it.

Before you start chopping wood, you should protect yourself and those around you by making sure that there is no one in the immediate vicinity. In addition, you need to make sure that there are no obstacles above your head, such as overhanging branches. To cut very thick firewood, it is better to use a saw, it will be faster and safer. Inspect the ax before use. Check that the blade is seated well. If the ax handle is damaged or there is a danger that the blade will fly off, then it is better not to risk it and have it repaired.

Do not try to cut thick branches at right angles, otherwise the ax may bounce off. Strike the first blow at a 45 degree angle. The second blow is from the same angle, but from the other side. You will end up with a V-shaped notch. Gradually go deeper until you have cut the entire branch. Chopping wood is very tiring. If you are tired, it is better to take a break and rest. A tired person makes many mistakes.

It is not advisable to chop wood in poor lighting. Don't leave the ax on the ground; if someone steps on it, they could hurt their leg. Stick the ax into the stump. Do not stick it into a living tree, it may damage it, and the ax itself will probably fall off. If there are no stumps nearby, lean the ax against the tree with the butt facing down. In case of long intervals between work, it is best to store the ax in a durable case. The blade benefits from oil to prevent it from rusting.

Based on materials from the book “Life in the Wild.”
Bear Grylls.