All about knives. Homemade knives for wood carving How to make a beautiful knife from wood

Hello, dear readers! My name is Sergey, you can see my other collections on this site, today we will figure out together how to make a knife from wood.

Master class assessment 5 out of 5 based on 2923 votes.

1 way:
In this video I will tell you how to make a gradient bayonet knife from wood from the game CS:GO!
Enjoy watching!
My VK:
My Steam:
Sample:
Thank you!

Method 2:
In this video I will tell you how to make a folding knife with the "Tiger Tooth" coloring from the game CS:GO!
Csgo-republic.ru
Enjoy watching!
My affiliate:
My VK:
My Steam: ...
Our VK group:
Trade: ...
Sample:
Thank you!

3 way:
In this video I will tell you how to make a Hunting knife from wood from the game CS:GO!
Enjoy watching!
My VK:
My Steam:
Trade:
Sample:
Thank you!

4 way:
In this video I will tell you how to make a Bowie Knife (long hunting knife) from wood with a bloody web color!
Enjoy watching!
Karacatica TV: ...
My affiliate:
My VK:
My Steam: ...
Our VK group:
Trade: ...
Sample:
Thank you!

5 way:
Random keys:
In this video I will tell you how to make a Butterfly Knife from wood from the game CS:GO!
Enjoy watching!
My VK:
My Steam:
Trade:
Sample:
Thank you!

Questions that are asked daily

• What tools are needed for woodworking?
• Recommend master classes or wood carving clubs in Omsk, I want to take my child away from the TV/computer and do something useful;
• I can’t watch the next video tutorial, an error pops up. What to do?
• I want to order a wooden knife using method 2 in the amount of 50 pieces, who should I pay for the work? Needs to be delivered to Vladivostok

More video

Knives are currently popular not only in the kitchen, but also among people who have connected their lives with extreme types of active leisure - fishing, hunting, tourism, etc.

There are various knives on the market today: variable models, different sizes and designs. But none of them can replace a knife that you make yourself.

People often write on the Internet about how to make a knife with your own hands, but you have to try hard to make them.

Knives: types and basic properties

In the photographs of the knife on the Internet, you can see that each product is a creative element created from various mechanisms.

There is a large classification of knives depending on their functionality: combat, tourist, folding (for example, butterfly), knives designed for hunting, multi-tools, bivouac knives, as well as ordinary kitchen knives.

Kitchen knives are bought ready-made, but knives intended for hunting or tourism can easily be made at home yourself.

There are also such knives as survival knives, the main task of which is to help one survive in the wild. This option is relevant for tourists and hunters.

The blade of such a knife is usually no more than 12 cm. This length is sufficient for cutting wood, processing game, cleaning fish or other similar actions. Small dimensions make this knife easy to transport.

When making such a knife, great attention should be paid to the material intended to create the blade. Steel is often preferred.

Procedure for creating a knife

To get a positive result when making a knife, you should first sketch out a drawing of the knife. In this case, you can know in advance what exactly you want to achieve in the end.

Instructions on how to make a knife at home include a number of rules.

Making a knife step by step

Cut out the blank for the future knife. Based on the finished drawing, we cut out the shape for the knife.

You will need a knife sharpener. With its help, the base is brought to the required shape. And after this you will have a clear blank in your hands, where you can distinguish the places of the handle and blade.

Rough sharpening of knives. At this stage you need to clearly know what your future knife is intended for. If it is made for hunting, fishing or hiking, then it is better to give preference to the blade type of sharpening.

And, if a knife is created to function in the kitchen or in the garden, then a razor type is suitable.

Don't expect perfect sharpening at this stage, as this is just a rough draft intended to determine the future shape.

If the blade is pre-prepared, then you can start working with the handle. A variety of materials are used to create the handle - these are: wood, plexiglass, bones, thick types of leather, etc.

Note!

Having cut out a blank to create a handle, you should check whether it fits comfortably in your hand, as well as its proportionality relative to the blade. The knife handle is secured using the riveting method.

The shape for the foot handle is given using a sharpening machine.

The knife is ground and polished using sandpaper.

The final sharpening of the blade is carried out after sharpening on a sharpener, also using sandpaper.

At the end, the finished knife is polished with velvet cloth or polish.

Note!

As you can see, the process of making a knife with your own hands is not that difficult, so everyone can try their hand at this area.

You can also give the future knife the necessary and desired design. Pay special attention to the handle during the design process.

Knife design

Because it is by the handle of the knife that others can then judge your creative thinking and status.

Some write their names on the handles of the knife, draw certain patterns and sketches in the form of tattoos.

The simplest knife can be built in an emergency in the forest; the main thing is to find the materials necessary to create it.

Note!

You just need to find the cutting part for the knife, and then you should insert it only into the handle, which will be in the form of a piece of wood, rope or leather.

Photo of a knife with your own hands

A knife is an essential tool that is needed in any household. Choosing the right product so that it lasts long and effectively is not very easy. However, you have the opportunity to make homemade knives that will not be inferior in quality to store-bought ones. Let's consider this issue in more detail.

Advantages of homemade knives

Among the advantages of homemade products are the following:

1. Free choice of knife type.

2. Use of available materials, which makes the cost of the finished element lower.

3. Possibility of independently designing the knife handle.

4. Satisfying creativity.

In principle, homemade knives, if you follow the manufacturing technique, are practically not inferior in quality to industrial products. Naturally, all stages of production at home must be strictly observed. Also consider that in a factory, instead of people, almost all activities are performed by machines. When making it yourself, you will have to work quite a lot with your hands.

Types of products

Before you make homemade knives, you need to decide what you will need them for. So, we can distinguish the following types of products:

• hunting;
• combat;
• household.

The peculiarity of such products is that the first and second types require permission if, of course, you buy them in a store. Also, homemade knives differ in the shape and length of the blade, and in the material used for manufacturing. The production process is the same for everyone. Sometimes there are only some nuances.

How to choose the necessary materials?

Making homemade knives is not very difficult. However, this is painstaking work that requires a lot of patience and time. Before starting work, you need to select the materials that will be useful to you in the process. So, you should prepare:

1. Steel, the thickness of which reaches 2 mm or more. Instead, a file or cable can be used.

2. Wood or other material from which the handle can be made.

3. Varnish (if wood was chosen).

4. Rivets for fixing the handle.

5. Fine sandpaper.

The need for additional material, of course, may arise. It all depends on what type of product you want to make.

A very interesting knife is made from a cable. For example, you have the opportunity to get a very original handle from a tang. However, the most difficult stage is considered to be welding the scattered wires, of which the cable actually consists. Moreover, this process will be very difficult for a beginner without experience. You will not be able to make such a product the first time.

The preferred option is forge welding. That is, the cable needs to be heated, sprinkled with borax, heated again, and then begin to hit the material with a heavy hammer. The procedure is physically difficult.

What tool will you need?

Now let's talk in more detail about what exactly you will work with. In order to make homemade knives, you will need the following tool:

• Vise. Thanks to them, you can fix the workpiece for further polishing and sharpening.
• Tin snips or jigsaw with appropriate blade.
• Hammer (if you will be using a wire or file).
• Gas burner or other equipment for hardening metal.
• Drill and drill bit of the appropriate size. This is necessary to secure the handle with a rivet.
• Sharpening machine with different attachments. Naturally, you can also use sandpaper, but it will not be as effective, and the work will be labor-intensive.

You will also need sketches of knives that you can draw yourself. At the same time, pay special attention to all the parameters if you are going to build a military weapon. In addition, now you can find a ready-made drawing that will meet your requirements.

Step-by-step manufacturing instructions

Before you make a knife, you need to thoroughly prepare. If you have the drawing and all the necessary materials and tools, then you can begin work. Moreover, you can do everything in your apartment or garage. However, please note that the work is noisy and dusty.

Naturally, the metal should be hardened before work. So, the manufacturing process itself consists of the following stages:

1. Cutting out the workpiece. Its length is 20-25 cm, and its width is 2-3 mm. To work you will need a vice. First, a rectangle of specified dimensions is cut out on steel. Next, the outline of the future knife is drawn on it.

2. Processing the workpiece on a grinding machine. Moreover, it is necessary to work with the edges. As a result of the procedure, you should receive a division of the future knife into two parts: the handle and the blade.

3. Roughing along the plane. Naturally, first you need to choose the type of sharpening. It can be blade (used in the manufacture of hunting knives) and razor (for the production of household products).

4. You have already figured out how to make a knife, its blank. Now let's start making the handle. For work, you can use wood, plexiglass or other material that can be easily processed. First you need to mark it and cut it out. Next, a hole is made for the rivet. The handle can now be sharpened to give it the appropriate shape.

5. The product should be sanded using sandpaper. Naturally, polishing will be required.

6. Sharpening and polishing the blade. This action is performed using a machine and sandpaper.

7. The final stage is polishing the product. To do this, use felt and a special paste.

Combat knives and ordinary household products are produced in this way.

Features of making a product from a file

It is now necessary to consider the production process using other materials. For example, you will learn how to make a knife from a file. In principle, this process is practically no different from the instructions already given here. However, it has its own characteristics.

First of all, know that a knife made from a file will be quite durable and of high quality if everything is done correctly. For example, it is necessary to harden the workpiece so that it does not break or crumble.

It is very important not to forget to temper the metal. In this way, you will relieve internal stress in the workpiece, which can lead to damage. In order for the future knife to be smooth and beautiful, an etching procedure is also needed. Preliminary sharpening of the product can be done using a machine. But finishing should be done with regular sandpaper.

How to properly harden a workpiece?

You already know what to make a knife from. Now we should consider the sequence of the hardening procedure. So, first you need to thoroughly warm the workpiece at a temperature of 600-700 degrees. Hardening time is 4-6 hours. You can heat the product in the oven, stove or even on a gas stove. However, the latter option requires the construction of a special structure above the burner, with the help of which the temperature will be maintained.

The future knife should cool down together with the oven. Periodically during hardening you can sprinkle the product with salt. After cooling, it is necessary to temper the metal. This procedure is very simple. You need to place the workpiece in the oven, heated to 200 degrees and leave there for an hour and a half. The knife should also cool down there. After this, the hardening process will be completed.

As you can see, making a knife at home is not that difficult.

Etching Features

To carry out the procedure you will need:

• Knife preparation.
• A container into which liquid will be poured. In this case, the workpiece must be placed in this vessel.
• Regular table salt.
• Nail polish (color doesn't matter at all).
• A means with which women remove manicure from their nails. It will be needed in order to subsequently process the knife.
• Charger for mobile phone.

In principle, all this can be found at home. So the procedure will not be difficult and lengthy. Please note that the process itself is quite rapid. Therefore, choose deep containers.

It should be noted that this procedure must be carried out if you want to get a beautiful design on the knife.

Features of sharpening the finished product

This process is very important and requires some skill. Otherwise, you can simply ruin the workpiece or cause it to break and cause unevenness to appear on the blade. Rough grinding should be done using a machine. This will save you time. However, don't overdo it.

Finishing must be done carefully. It is best to use a regular sharpening stone for this and carry out the entire procedure manually. After sharpening, the blade is polished with a special paste and felt.

We looked at what to make a knife from. But the procedure has a number of nuances that should be taken into account. The tips below will help you make a quality product that will actually be used.

1. If there are small irregularities or burrs on the workpiece, then process it with a needle file.

2. To avoid injury when installing the handle, wrap the blade with electrical tape.

3. When choosing a material, try to pay attention to its evenness and the presence of microcracks. This can greatly affect the quality of the future product.

4. The blade slopes must be drawn out very carefully.

5. If you decide to choose wood for the handle, then you can use a regular parquet board.

6. The manufacturing process of this product is quite noisy. Therefore, it is advisable to carry it out in the garage rather than in the apartment. In addition, you must wear work clothes.

Now you know how to make a good knife at home. Good luck!

Hello to all lovers of homemade products, every specialist knows well that the tool plays a big role in the work, namely its reliability and build quality. Thinking about this topic, thoughts arise to make the ideal convenient tool with your own hands, in this case these are wood cutters, and cutting out patterns with their help is quite a fascinating activity, which cannot but rejoice. The main thing in creating cutters is to be more careful, since you will have to work with sharp objects, namely the cutting part. The author’s idea to make wood cutters with his own hands was accompanied by the fact that there was no such tool nearby, and there were no local stores either.

The properties that a good wood carving knife should have are as follows:
High-quality steel that increases the service life of knives and maintains their sharpness for a long time.
Ergonomic (comfortable) handles.
Relative ease of manufacture.
Reliability.

To create this homemade product, you don’t need any hard-to-find materials; they shouldn’t be here, since it was planned in advance that all the details would be easily accessible to most carpenters and woodworking enthusiasts.

Required materials and tools:
* Band saw pieces made of durable steel, which from experience confirms their long-term sharpness retention.
* Remains of oak boards left over from previous work, since oak itself is durable, beautiful and technologically advanced material in its own way.
Tools you will need:
* Electric sharpener.
* Belt sander with a grit of about 40, as well as sanding paper (grit 80, and for finishing - 240, 800 and 1000).
* Hacksaw.
* Respiratory protection - respirator (gauze mask).
* Wood glue.

Now all the parts with the necessary tools are ready, now let’s proceed to the step-by-step assembly.

Step one.
The first step is to make a blade. From pieces of saw blade about 8 cm long, the author turned metal blade blanks of the desired shape, and provided the blanks with shanks, their length is about 4.5-5 cm, these dimensions guarantee sufficient strength for fastening the blade in the handle.

For greater reliability of fixation (protection from loosening and the knife falling out of the handle), I made semicircular cutouts on the sides of the shank.
The cross-section of the knife blade has a wedge narrowing, the angle of which ranges from 10 to 15 degrees from the butt to the cutting edge, which is the descent of the blade. Well, the cutting edge is given this shape by a small chamfer, that is, a large narrowing, and therefore an angle of 25-30 degrees close to the blade blade.

A large chamfer on knives must be made even before the moment when the shank is not glued into the handle. The chamfer shape must be given on both sides, while maintaining a certain angle, and the grinding of the metal must occur symmetrically. It is known from materials science that during intensive grinding the metal heats up, which causes it to temper, and this leads to the fact that the metal becomes softer and loses the ability to maintain an edge. To prevent this from happening, the workpiece to be turned must be periodically cooled in water, thereby avoiding overheating. It is most convenient when a container with cold water is nearby and lowering the workpiece is not difficult. To finally shape the blade, as well as sharpen and polish it, you need to install the handle, which is what will happen next.

Step two.
After much work with metal, we move on to making the handle; oak bars are well suited for this, the dimensions of which were 12 by 22 mm in cross-section, and the length was slightly more than 120 mm. These bars were selected so that the surfaces to be glued were smooth. To simplify the work, we make a selection of a socket for the shank in one of the halves of the future handle.

First, the shank is processed using a grinder along the edges in order to get rid of burrs. Then, placing the shank on the prepared block, we outline it with a pencil. Using chisels, we select a socket to a depth that is equal to the thickness of the workpiece, periodically assembling the structure assembly dry to check the fit of the bars to each other. If the depth of the socket is insufficient, the handle will either not stick together or, if the connection is poor, it will simply crack during use. Also, a socket that is too deep will cause the blade to move from side to side, which leads to undesirable consequences, namely cracking of the handle or deformation of the shank. Therefore, be as precise as possible when selecting the socket for the shank.

After you have made sure during the dry control assembly that all the parts fit tightly, in this case the shank, and also that there are no gaps between the bars-halves of the handle, then you can start gluing. We apply carpenter's glue to the surface of the block and into the socket under the shank, since it is impossible to achieve accuracy in depth when manually selecting a socket, then just in case it is better to fill it with glue, after which dries the shank will be held in place due to its hardness, in case of inaccuracy. You also need to apply glue to the adjacent part of the handle, but in a smaller layer.

Step three.
Then we combine the parts (you need to connect the ends of the blocks located closer to the blade as accurately as possible), and tighten them with clamps. Remove excess glue with a damp cloth and leave for 12 hours until completely dry.

Step four.
Now let's adjust the handle to a suitable shape for the cutting tool, usually this is a small bend on the back to support the thumb.

But you can’t do without the features of these pens; they differ in that
their back part is wider and rounded than the one closer to the blade, because of this, all blanks for handles in the first stage of processing look more like a truncated elongated pyramid, and there is also a recess for the index finger.

After gluing the workpiece, the back part is sawed off with a hacksaw to a size of 12 cm.
Then we grind the ends of the handles with a belt sander, do not forget to use personal protective equipment - safety glasses and a respirator, since oak dust can cause allergies.

Sanding starts with 40 grit and then increases until the workpiece is smooth.
Cover with nitro varnish.

Step four.
We are finishing the cutting part, we need a small chamfer, the sharpening angle of which for these knives is approximately 25-30°. To form a small chamfer, the author uses sandpaper of different grits, gradually increasing the grit, starting from 240, moving to 800, and then to 1000, finally everything is polished on a leather belt clamped on a block. If sharpening is successful, then the wood should be cut both along and across the grain without much effort, and the cut surface should be smooth and shiny, the so-called “butter” cut.
Several knives were made using this manufacturing template; in general, they are quite reliable and easy to use, which is quite decent for a non-professional.

A hunting knife is essential for every hunter. First of all, it is used for finishing and butchering prey, but besides this, it remains a faithful assistant in a variety of hunting situations. Nowadays you can find a huge number of different models and modifications of blades on sale. But despite this, the need to make your own knife may arise. This usually happens due to the inability to buy the blade you need, either to replace a lost or broken one you love, or one you saw from friends and liked, or the knife you need is not on sale.

Making a knife from a 9HF saw

In this article we will not focus on the shape and design of the blade, the type and width of the sharpening, etc. We believe that we already have a finished project or sample and will focus on the production itself.

In order for a homemade hunting knife to meet the basic requirements for such blades, it is recommended to make it from high-carbon alloy steels. For example:

• 9HF– tool alloy steel, used for the manufacture of frame, band and circular saws, punches, trimming dies and a number of other tools. Usually saw blades are used as blanks;
• R6M5– high-speed alloy steel of high strength. It is used for the manufacture of many types of cutting tools, drills, saw wheels, the latter can be used to make a workpiece;
• 65G– spring steel, with high wear resistance, can be blued and blackened. They make springs, springs, gears, etc. In addition to sheets, rear springs of trucks are used for blanks. Considered one of the cheapest knife materials;
• X12, R3M3F2 and a number of others are also suitable.

The material for the workpiece can be taken from the above products, although now on the Internet you can order a plate for the workpiece from almost any steel. As a recommendation, take a pendulum saw blade for metal, the usual dimensions are 400x30 mm, thickness 2 mm, rough surface, color black or gray.
If you want to make a homemade knife at home, in addition to the material for the workpiece, we will need:

• Angle grinder (grinder)
• Wheels for it, cutting wheels for alloy steel, for example inox A54S BF, sharpening and grinding.
• Drill or drilling machine
• Vise
• Pobedite and other special drills
• Files and diamond files
• Emery machine (very desirable).

The knife making process will be as follows:

The handle of the knife can be wound using paracord or made of wood; in the latter case, we drill holes in the handle according to a template, according to a sample or drawing. Holes are drilled using special drills with accompanying cooling using oil. It is more convenient to do this on a drilling machine.

To simplify the process, holes are first drilled with small diameter drills and then gradually drilled out to the desired size.

Handle

Knives are decorated with different handles. The choice of material for their manufacture depends on the purposes for which the knife is intended, ease of use and personal preferences of the owner. Below are two ways to make a knife handle at home.

Wrapping the handle with paracord in a few minutes

Using a paracord cord as a knife handle is not only easier and faster, but also more practical. You will always have a couple of meters of cord with you, which can be used for a variety of purposes when surviving in extreme situations.

For the winding we need:

• cord, 2 – 2.5 m;
• thick adhesive tape or electrical tape;
• lighter or matches;
• scissors;
• gloves;
• screwdriver.

Before you start winding the cord, decide whether you need a lanyard loop and if so, where it will be, on the side of the blade near the stop or at the end of the handle. If it is available, in addition to the ability to hang the knife, in the first case you can insert your thumb into it to make it more convenient and secure to hold the knife, in the second, you can use it to remove the knife from the sheath, etc.

Paracord is wound in the following order:

• We wet the cord, and it stretches better, and when it dries, it will sit more solidly on the knife.
• We seal the knife blade with tape or tape to avoid accidental cuts or cutting the cord. It is better to perform all operations with gloves.
  
• We press one end of the cord on the head of the handle so that 10 cm remains free.
  
• We form a loop from the cord, laid along the handle so that the top of the loop protrudes a couple of centimeters beyond the cord winding area.
  
• Then, holding the knife in your left hand and pressing both ends of the loop with your thumb, with your right hand we begin to wind the cord around the handle, starting from its head.
  We make the winding tight, turn to turn, do not tighten it too much, keep in mind that the cord will still shrink after drying.
  
• Having brought the winding all the way to the blade, we thread the remaining end of the cord into the protruding part of the loop.
• We cut off the excess cord, leaving about 3–5 cm, and burn the end of the cord.
  
• After this, pulling the free end of the cord from the side of the handle head, we pull the loop under the winding until the end threaded into it is hidden under the winding. Avoid pulling the loop completely out, otherwise the entire winding will unravel.

Winding is complete. With this option of winding, we will not have a loop for a lanyard. If we want to form it, the winding is somewhat more complicated. Initially, two loops are placed on the handle on both sides of the knife.

To form a loop for a lanyard on the head of a knife, the end of the cord is pressed onto the head of the handle and one loop is pulled to the blade, then the cord is thrown over the head and a second loop is placed on the other side. The winding starts from the head of the knife. Having finished the winding, the remaining end is threaded through both loops near the blade and pulled under the winding by the loop in the headband, thereby forming it.

So that the loop is near the stop, we do the same thing, but on the contrary, we start laying and winding from the stop, and pull the loop there to tighten the clamped end under the winding.

Making an overhead handle as an alternative to paracord

If you are a classicist and want to make a regular handle, use wood for this purpose. It is more accessible, easier to work with, the wooden handle is more pleasant to the touch, does not get cold, slips less in the hand, and if processed correctly, does not absorb moisture. The handle of a knife can be made of oak, beech, maple, birch, walnut or mahogany. In order not to waste time and effort on preparing and drying wood, there are two simple ways to get it. The first is parquet, you can buy it in a special store, where, by the way, expensive varieties are sold individually. The second is old furniture, in the attic, in the garage, at the dacha, with friends, you can always find unnecessary household rubbish and use it.
For the handle you need two dies, if you have a standard size hand, then 10 - 15 mm thick, this includes a margin for processing so that the thickness of the future handle is about 20 mm. The length of the workpieces is 150 - 200 mm, so that there is room for fixing them during initial processing.

In addition to the tree, we will need:

• dowels made of aluminum, copper, brass, iron according to the number of holes and the corresponding diameter;
• drill with drills or drilling machine;
• drills according to the number of holes in the handle of the same diameter;
• a sharpening or grinding machine, it can be replaced by a wood file and a lot, a lot of time;
• jigsaw or hand jigsaw, or see previous paragraph;
• an engraving machine or a file with a needle file;
• sandpaper of different numbers down to the finest;
• epoxy based adhesive;
• linseed oil;
• thick adhesive tape or electrical tape;
• vice, clamp.

We make the handle as follows:

1. Before starting work, wrap the knife blade with tape or tape to avoid accidental cuts.
2. The first step is drilling. We place the knife blank on a wooden block, press it with a clamp or, at worst, wrap it with tape and drill holes. To make the hole neat, first drill with a thin drill, and then drill out to the desired diameter. After the first hole has been drilled, we insert a key or a drill of the same diameter into it, this is done to fix it so that the die does not move. Let's move on to the next hole.
   
3. We drill the second die in the same way.
4. After drilling, we assemble the dies on a knife, using keys or drills, to make sure that all the holes match.
   
5. Then, attaching the dies one by one to the knife using dowels or drills and a clamp, we outline the contour of the handle along the contour of the knife. It is advisable to mark the handle with a slight indentation, 1 - 2 mm, for subsequent processing.
6. After marking, we cut out the handle with a jigsaw or grind it on a grinding wheel; in extreme cases, the file is in your hands.
   
7. Preparing the dowels. To make the homemade knife look aesthetically pleasing, we will not rivet the dowels, but glue them in. To do this, use an engraving machine or a file to make chaotic cuts on the keys, in which the glue will harden and set. At the ends of the keys we remove an inclined chamfer at 450.
   
8. Since after gluing it will be inconvenient to process the cheeks of the stop, we finally process and polish them using sandpaper.
9. We carefully sand the handle halves from the inside so that they fit tightly when gluing to the plane of the knife shank.
10. Before gluing, we make a final test assembly.
11. We carry out the gluing itself according to the instructions for the glue. The assembly procedure is as follows: lubricate the inside of one half, insert dowels coated with glue into it, put a knife on them, and then the lubricated second half.
    We clamp the assembled handle in a vice and remove the excess squeezed out glue. Leave the clamped handle for a day.
12. After the glue has hardened, using files, emery, a grinding wheel, and so on, we finally shape, grind and sand the handle of the knife.
    
    
    
13. When the handle is completely polished, it's time to soak. It is best to saturate wood with linseed oil. You can buy it in a store for artists, they use it to dilute oil paints.
    The handle is kept in oil for three days to a week. The process can be speeded up by boiling the handle in oil for a couple of hours, but you must strictly monitor the temperature, otherwise the glue may leak.
    
14. Then the handle should dry at natural temperature for about a month, during which time the oil will polymerize and the wood will harden and become impervious to moisture.
15. After drying, the handle is finally polished with a soft cloth.

Sharpening for beginners

Before we talk about sharpening a hunting knife, we need to remind you that homemade knives made from the metals recommended in the article are very difficult and take a long time to sharpen, since the alloy steels used have high hardness. This must be remembered when using a knife for purposes other than its intended purpose.

Now about the sharpening itself. At home, knives are sharpened on special sharpening stones. Such stones are ceramic (the cheapest and most common), diamond, natural and Japanese sea stones. The principle of sharpening on them is approximately the same, so in the future, by default, we will talk about the most common ceramic sharpening stone.
In order to sharpen a knife efficiently, it is advisable to have either two sharpening stones of different grain sizes, or, what happens more often, a sharpening stone whose sides have different grain sizes. For ease of sharpening, the size, or rather the length, of the stone should be greater than the length of the knife blade.

It is advisable to sharpen a knife with both hands, so it is advisable to place the sharpening stone on a separate board, securing it either in a hole specially cut for this purpose, or using six nails driven into the sides.
Sharpening the knife begins on the roughest stone. At this stage, the whetstone does not need to be wetted. We place the stone randomly on the table, the main thing is that it is convenient for you to sharpen on it.

The entire sharpening process consists of giving the edge of the blade an acute angular shape. When doing this, you need to remember a few basic rules:

• you need to choose the optimal knife sharpening angle and stick to it throughout the entire process;
• the knife is driven across the stone with the blade forward, as if cutting off a thin layer from it;
• in one movement you need to sweep the entire edge of the blade for uniform sharpening;
• the edge of the blade should always be perpendicular to the direction of movement;
• each next time the blade must be turned over and held with the other side so as not to displace the center of the blade chamfer;
• movements should be smooth, without pressure;
• It is better to sharpen both sides with a unidirectional movement, either towards yourself or away from yourself, since moving the hand away from you is always worse and weaker than moving it towards yourself.

Now regarding the sharpening angle. It can be from 450 to 300, in the first case the knife will hold an edge longer, in the second it will be sharper. It is better to sharpen a hunting knife exactly at 300, this is not difficult to achieve, just when sharpening, move the knife as if you were cutting a thin slice of butter or cheese.

After you have turned the initial sharpness and brought out the angle of the blade edge, you can move on to a stone of lesser dispersion. It is advisable to periodically moisten it with water so that the edge of the blade glides better and metal dust does not clog the pores.
You can finally sharpen the blade to a mirror shine and razor sharpness by sharpening it on an old leather belt with GOI paste. The main feature of straightening with GOI paste is that the knife is guided in the opposite direction to the blade, i.e. butt forward.

Making a sheath (case) from leather

One of the necessary accessories for a hunting knife is a sheath. They are needed to protect the blade from dulling, and everything around from cuts and damage to things.

You can make a homemade sheath yourself at home, from a small piece of leather about 3 mm thick.

For this, in addition to the skin, you will need:

• scissors;
• a sheet of thick paper for a template;
• pen;
• an awl (a sharpened nail or nails can replace it);
• small nails and a hammer;
• universal glue;
• fork;
• paraffin candle;
• fine sandpaper or grinder;
• nylon thread and one or two large needles;
• pliers;
• snap clasp;
• wax or cream.

The procedure for making the cover will be as follows:

1. Making a template. Applying the knife blade to a sheet of paper, trace it along the contour.
   Then around this contour with a centimeter indent we draw another contour, it will be the main one. Cut out the template along the outer contour. Separately, we cut out a T-shaped part for the fastener, the width of the harness is about 20 mm, and we measure the length of the harness along the handle of the knife.
2. Mark the details on the skin. Having attached the template to the leather, we outline the part for one side of the sheath, then, moving the template to the side by 5 - 8 mm, we outline only one side to get a part for half of the insert.
   Then, turning the template over, we repeat the steps, outlining the second side and the second half of the insert. We apply and outline the T-shaped part of the fastener.
   
3. Take scissors and carefully cut out all the details from the leather.
   
4. Applying it to the knife, we try on all the details to see if they match.
   
5. We rub the ends of the insert on the clasp with paraffin candles, and then sand them using sandpaper.
   
   
   
6. We apply the fastener to one half, and using an awl and nails we mark and punch holes for the thread, in two rows.
   
7. We sew the fastener; the thread can be pre-lubricated with paraffin.
   
8. For ease of subsequent stitching, we glue the parts together. We cut out a part from the template along the contour of the blade itself. We place this part on the half of the sheath and coat it with glue so that the glue does not come out beyond the inserts. Glue according to the instructions on the tube. Lubricate and glue the inserts.
   
9. At the tip of the sheath, between the inserts, we cut a groove for ventilation.
   
10. Glue the other half. We place the sheath under the press for a while for high-quality gluing.
    
11. We check how the knife fits and sits.
    
12. Use sandpaper to sand the edges of the sheath.
    
13. Using a fork, running two prongs along the edge of the sheath, outline the outline for stitching. Use a fork to mark the holes for the thread.
    
14. If you want, you can get fancy by cutting a thread groove into the face of the scabbard so that it is flush with the leather. In this case, it will then need to be polished with wax or cream in the same color as the scabbard.
    
15. Punch holes for the thread with an awl.
    
16. We sew the cover. You can sew with one thread, or with two threads, threading them through the holes one at a time.
17. Attach the button clasp.
    
    
    
18. We finally grind and polish the scabbard with wax or cream.
    

The scabbard is ready.